I was a USMC 2841 Ground Radio Repairman 72-80. This is NOT a PRC-77. The first clue without looking at the ID plate is the switch does not have a "new squelch" position in addition to the regular Squelch position. 2nd of course is the ID plate says PRC-25. The radios are different in a few ways. Besides tone squelch, the PRC-25 has tubes. The PRC-77 is all solid state and has longer battery life and slightly better power. We modified the battery compartment in late 78-80 by sealing it from the main body with a silicone seal around the battery connector and adding a pressure relief valve to the battery cover. In high-heat areas, gas could build up, and when changing batteries the cover could blow up into your face from the pressure. Your unit is missing one module lifter. I still have two because they were often lost.
We would take modules and swap to fix multiple radios and send one really bad one back to the ELMACO , depot level. When I was with The depot we would fix it completely. Streamlined the turnaround.
Do you think it’s worth it to restore a Demilitarized PRC-77 by putting “New” Modules inside of it? And would it still work so long as the wiring and modules already inside are okay or are replaced? And if the unit itself was outside without a cover will it be FUBAR from weather damage? I only ask because the internals appear to be okay aside from some rusting on the screws and a couple module covers
Well, if there's a problem with it then i think the best course of action is to troubleshoot the radio to determine root cause. In other words, it may not be a bad module, you just do not know until troubleshoot.
Gregory Charvat Thanks, so far I’ve. Been able to flag all of the wires and am About ready to solder them To my newer Chassis and hope she turns on. Aside from what appears to be a Gimmick Capacitor and a couple of wires that need replacing It should turn on and run fine. Unless a bad module is installed onto my chassis of course.
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I was a USMC 2841 Ground Radio Repairman 72-80. This is NOT a PRC-77. The first clue without looking at the ID plate is the switch does not have a "new squelch" position in addition to the regular Squelch position. 2nd of course is the ID plate says PRC-25. The radios are different in a few ways. Besides tone squelch, the PRC-25 has tubes. The PRC-77 is all solid state and has longer battery life and slightly better power. We modified the battery compartment in late 78-80 by sealing it from the main body with a silicone seal around the battery connector and adding a pressure relief valve to the battery cover. In high-heat areas, gas could build up, and when changing batteries the cover could blow up into your face from the pressure. Your unit is missing one module lifter. I still have two because they were often lost.
Wow brings back memories was a 2841 in the Marines. Fixed thousands of these
Where can we find them for sale today?
Where did you learn this? Would really like to get into these and get an understanding of it all
This is a totally different language to me i have no idea what your talking about but i love it an want to learn
We would take modules and swap to fix multiple radios and send one really bad one back to the ELMACO , depot level. When I was with The depot we would fix it completely. Streamlined the turnaround.
I lke it ,RT841 !!
Sure would like to get one of these.
I'm still using that thing in the military and this is a developed European nation.
I have PRC-77 needing needing work. How do I contact you.
I ' am trying to find this type of radio. PRC- 77 , I remember using this type of radio , I' am willing to buy one Please.
We have the same last name. Rare. I'm also into radios. Maybe we're related. De KE8RFU
I like it
Do you think it’s worth it to restore a Demilitarized PRC-77 by putting “New” Modules inside of it? And would it still work so long as the wiring and modules already inside are okay or are replaced?
And if the unit itself was outside without a cover will it be FUBAR from weather damage? I only ask because the internals appear to be okay aside from some rusting on the screws and a couple module covers
Well, if there's a problem with it then i think the best course of action is to troubleshoot the radio to determine root cause. In other words, it may not be a bad module, you just do not know until troubleshoot.
Gregory Charvat Thanks, so far I’ve. Been able to flag all of the wires and am
About ready to solder them To my newer Chassis and hope she turns on. Aside from what appears to be a Gimmick Capacitor and a couple of wires that need replacing It should turn on and run fine. Unless a bad module is installed onto my chassis of course.
Would you sell this to me?
They run better on 14 volts
l33t