One of the more easier jobs on the D2 :), thanks I have the exact same issue with the tire shope telling me they can't do alignment. At some stage one should just bite the bullet and replace the entire front suspension, tire rods, control arms and shocks if you want your D2 to ride like she used to. Of course it doen't help to drive over a bumpy dirt roads and I swear the week after you chage a single control arm you will now be able to clear hear the other one that needs to be replaced! Or better still just get another D2! Also remeber that you have to get the Malher control arm kit not the other cheaper versions including the Blauparts ones that is $500.
Well this look like an easy installation. Took my 01' audi a6 to couple shop for quote on replacing an outer tie rod.. All wanted $150-200 fpr the install with my own parts i picked up for about $20. How much should i pay to get the tie rod installed? Isnt $150 a little over priced?
GaryKist_Automotive Much appreciated Gary! It seems like a slightly more difficult job with it being a diesel as opposed to petrol as there is less space to work with. So far it seems i have to access the HVAC area, remove the battery. Two bolts there. The steering column pin next in the drivers footwell. Then the hoses and tie rods and apparently it slides out. Here is hoping it is that easy! Will keep you posted pal. Steve :)
To get the old one out easier and the new one in easier you can remove as he has done but once you remove the bolt that goes in horizontally you can look at the side of where you take the bolt out there will be a small gap that obviously closes up when you do the bolt up. If you gently hammer a flat head into the end it separates the gap the actual tie rod is in so you don't have to beat the shit out of it and risk doing in something else. Once the new one is in, remove the flat head and crank the bolt back up to the right specs :)
@a DIY Car Guy Hi, I have an audi A3 2001,and i am as far as trying to remove the large nut at the end of the tie rod that attatches directly into the steering rack,heres my question,i tried to undo it with vice grips/mole grips because i dont have the proper tool,should it be really tight to undo? Do i have to support the steering rack at all (i.e. hold it still) on the shaft whilst undoing the large nut,or is it strong enough just to undo it with force? I tried a few times to undo it,it just seems to bounce back,i am thinking of angle grinding the tie rod shaft off completely,then fitting a socket over it and removing it that way,i think its a 34mm
Hi, yes it will be too tight for Vice Grips. I used a pipe wrench. But you can rent a tie rod remover tool from Advance Auto Parts. Or buy here: amzn.to/2d2e5vb , amzn.to/2cx8VIr , amzn.to/2d2poBU
a DIY Car Guy I got it off in the end,i bought a massive 34mm ring spanner and open end at the other, that did it easily.I also ordered a special tool that fits around the nut and you put a 1/2 inch extension bar on it and undo it with a shifter,as you undo it tightens the grip around the nut so it cant slip off :) I never got chance to use that as the massive spanner did it :) The spanner made easy work of it
I temporarily wrapped it with plastic, then fixed it later. This tie rod was seized so the shop couldnt do an alignment. I had to take the tie rod off to un-seize it and didnt have extra time to figure out how to get the boot off from the inner part of the steering rack. It was nearing the end of the semester and I had more important shit to worry about.
If you remove the inner and outer tie rods as one unit like I did then you don't have to align it when you put it back on. If you separate or adjust them then it will have to be realigned.
@@aDIYCarGuy that is incorrect. Audi technician here and everytime you remove any suspension components especially tie rods you need and alignment stop giving out wrong information.
Logically, I am correct. If the inner and outer tie rod assembly is removed as one unit and are not separated, and THE ADJUSTMENT HAS NOT BEEN CHANGED, as I stated in my comment, why TF would it need to be realigned? Nothing has changed with the adjustment of the two pieces, they will bolt back on exactly how they were. Of course an Audi dealer would realign it whether it needs to be or not, for the sake of quality control that big corporations adhere to. Stop letting policy or even education narrow your mind.
That is probably power steering fluid which means the power steering rack might be leaking. I might have had a little fluid in mine, I don't remember. It's not supposed to be there.
If you saw my other videos you would be able to tell that I do repairs quite often, and probably know more than you do about car repair. It's not a complicated science.
Man replaced both sides, drivers side went out again. Squeaks every time I turn my steering wheel. I know it's the inner tie rod, from only putting a zip tie on the front of the boot, not the back. How do you get it back there? It's to small of an area to work with and tighten the zip tie.
+Solomon Asmerom Sorry I don't remember how I got in there. Try some long reach pliers or try to fish the zip tie around the rack somehow. Try going at it from under the car, not from the wheel well. Have someone turn the wheel so you can listen to where the squeak is coming from. It might be something else.
you can buy a new nut or bolt at a hardware store....they usually have a big selection of nuts and bolts. you can see in one of my videos where i use a bolt extractor to remove a rounded bolt; go to my channel and search "irwin bolt remover".
the second bolt you took off with a socket wrench i snapped off at the steering knuckle ... spent the last hour trying to figure out what to do. sucks to be me
yea i would say 50-75 is more reasonable, especially if you bring your own parts. they do have bills to pay and expensive equipment, but that's no excuse for them to inflate prices like that. they should focus on repeat customers instead of getting one big payment from a person and scaring them away.
Wish/ hope it is this easy on my old A8. God these cars eat front suspension parts for breakfast every couple of years! Good job these bugger are about $30 each x4. I believe they have twice the number of control arms than a normal car.
+Jacana Productions Ha, ha a year later and I didn't even see my post! Gotta love Audi suspension $$$$ and I guess now i'm a little wiser and know the bloody difference between a control arm and tie rod!
@@gigel99324 looking back at my old A8 D2 I see now it was not that expensive to maintain. Shite just paid $600 to change the bloody spark plugs on my highlander!
dam rounded the fekking top nut off 2 issues cant get it out ill have to chisel its top end off then drop it that ok however the dam spare part does not include top nut only uk pffts
I'm here because Reno Tahoe Audi is quoting me at 1600$ to replace them and i have the parts already purchased. Fuck that I'm doing it myself thank you for your video!
Yea i figured as much now after watching your video. I think even $50 would be reasonable for a shop to replace the bad tie rod end lol. Base on the video you can probably replace a tie rod in no more than 10 minutes time. Why cant these local mechanic shops be more resonanle instead cheating their way out from the locals.
i take it you're one of those people who sees a little rust and goes crazy with the penetrating oil. wont make a difference. these parts aren't built by fairies, they can take some pounding, or light tapping in this case. didnt do what you said and didnt have to pay dosh...my way is ok.
get audi a4 at price 700 pounds uk i pay £400 for mine but needs work work done whisbone which i did easy cheap i got audi a4 1998 model 18,cc engine r reg
FYI: Top bolt 5 ft lbs, side nut 30 ft-lbs torque. Inner tie rod 22mm. Never hammer on new outer tie rod when installing.
How did he get the bolt at 1:13 off? Mine is like welded.
WHEN....EVERYTHING...GOES...PERFECTLY...!!!!
ikr so stupid, my bolt is like it is welded stuck
One of the more easier jobs on the D2 :), thanks I have the exact same issue with the tire shope telling me they can't do alignment. At some stage one should just bite the bullet and replace the entire front suspension, tire rods, control arms and shocks if you want your D2 to ride like she used to. Of course it doen't help to drive over a bumpy dirt roads and I swear the week after you chage a single control arm you will now be able to clear hear the other one that needs to be replaced! Or better still just get another D2! Also remeber that you have to get the Malher control arm kit not the other cheaper versions including the Blauparts ones that is $500.
Well this look like an easy installation. Took my 01' audi a6 to couple shop for quote on replacing an outer tie rod.. All wanted $150-200 fpr the install with my own parts i picked up for about $20. How much should i pay to get the tie rod installed? Isnt $150 a little over priced?
Did you ever get that fixed
I have a 01 TDi thats needing the steering rack replaced, gonna attempt it myself so i am watching and learning as much as i can. Thanks Gary :)
you're welcome...i've taken steering racks out of cars before but never an a4. If you need help, just ask and ill do my best. Good luck!
GaryKist_Automotive
Much appreciated Gary! It seems like a slightly more difficult job with it being a diesel as opposed to petrol as there is less space to work with. So far it seems i have to access the HVAC area, remove the battery. Two bolts there. The steering column pin next in the drivers footwell. Then the hoses and tie rods and apparently it slides out. Here is hoping it is that easy! Will keep you posted pal.
Steve :)
Steve Welch You bet Steve! That doesn't sound too bad!
To get the old one out easier and the new one in easier you can remove as he has done but once you remove the bolt that goes in horizontally you can look at the side of where you take the bolt out there will be a small gap that obviously closes up when you do the bolt up. If you gently hammer a flat head into the end it separates the gap the actual tie rod is in so you don't have to beat the shit out of it and risk doing in something else. Once the new one is in, remove the flat head and crank the bolt back up to the right specs :)
2002 Audi A6 3.0 Quattro; will the specific tie rods you posted work for the rear as well?
+Dom Rizzuti I don't think so, I think the rear is different
anybody know what size bolt that is on top of the tie rod? 😭 I lost mine
10mm?
@a DIY Car Guy what did you use to undo the nut,it doesn't show it being undone on the video
amzn.to/2d2e5vb , amzn.to/2cx8VIr , amzn.to/2d2poBU
a DIY Car Guy
thanks
If you mean how did I loosen it from the inner tie rod; pipe wrench.
@a DIY Car Guy Hi, I have an audi A3 2001,and i am as far as trying to remove the large nut at the end of the tie rod that attatches directly into the steering rack,heres my question,i tried to undo it with vice grips/mole grips because i dont have the proper tool,should it be really tight to undo?
Do i have to support the steering rack at all (i.e. hold it still) on the shaft whilst undoing the large nut,or is it strong enough just to undo it with force?
I tried a few times to undo it,it just seems to bounce back,i am thinking of angle grinding the tie rod shaft off completely,then fitting a socket over it and removing it that way,i think its a 34mm
Hi, yes it will be too tight for Vice Grips. I used a pipe wrench. But you can rent a tie rod remover tool from Advance Auto Parts. Or buy here: amzn.to/2d2e5vb , amzn.to/2cx8VIr , amzn.to/2d2poBU
a DIY Car Guy
thanks for all your help :) much appreciated
SP330Y you're welcome and thanks for watching, good luck!
a DIY Car Guy
I got it off in the end,i bought a massive 34mm ring spanner and open end at the other, that did it easily.I also ordered a special tool that fits around the nut and you put a 1/2 inch extension bar on it and undo it with a shifter,as you undo it tightens the grip around the nut so it cant slip off :) I never got chance to use that as the massive spanner did it :) The spanner made easy work of it
How the hell did you get that bolt out from just pushing it? you already removed it with a torch before the video thats how!
Put your tinfoil hat on a little tighter
I temporarily wrapped it with plastic, then fixed it later. This tie rod was seized so the shop couldnt do an alignment. I had to take the tie rod off to un-seize it and didnt have extra time to figure out how to get the boot off from the inner part of the steering rack. It was nearing the end of the semester and I had more important shit to worry about.
Did you have any fluid in the boot when you removed it? If so, what type of fluid is it and is it supposed to be in there?
Nobody gives a shit thats why you didn't get a reply!
do you have to do an alignment after?
If you remove the inner and outer tie rods as one unit like I did then you don't have to align it when you put it back on. If you separate or adjust them then it will have to be realigned.
thank you.
panchovillaxx7 no prob
@@aDIYCarGuy that is incorrect. Audi technician here and everytime you remove any suspension components especially tie rods you need and alignment stop giving out wrong information.
Logically, I am correct. If the inner and outer tie rod assembly is removed as one unit and are not separated, and THE ADJUSTMENT HAS NOT BEEN CHANGED, as I stated in my comment, why TF would it need to be realigned? Nothing has changed with the adjustment of the two pieces, they will bolt back on exactly how they were. Of course an Audi dealer would realign it whether it needs to be or not, for the sake of quality control that big corporations adhere to. Stop letting policy or even education narrow your mind.
That is probably power steering fluid which means the power steering rack might be leaking. I might have had a little fluid in mine, I don't remember. It's not supposed to be there.
If you saw my other videos you would be able to tell that I do repairs quite often, and probably know more than you do about car repair. It's not a complicated science.
Man replaced both sides, drivers side went out again. Squeaks every time I turn my steering wheel. I know it's the inner tie rod, from only putting a zip tie on the front of the boot, not the back. How do you get it back there? It's to small of an area to work with and tighten the zip tie.
+Solomon Asmerom Sorry I don't remember how I got in there. Try some long reach pliers or try to fish the zip tie around the rack somehow. Try going at it from under the car, not from the wheel well. Have someone turn the wheel so you can listen to where the squeak is coming from. It might be something else.
yea sometimes they can be hard and you can use wd40....mine was easy though
but if the nut broke on the other side you might have to take the whole knuckle off to hammer it from the other side
Did you cut the boot?
yea, i was impatient with it at the time
for what?
you can buy a new nut or bolt at a hardware store....they usually have a big selection of nuts and bolts. you can see in one of my videos where i use a bolt extractor to remove a rounded bolt; go to my channel and search "irwin bolt remover".
the second bolt you took off with a socket wrench i snapped off at the steering knuckle ... spent the last hour trying to figure out what to do. sucks to be me
yea i would say 50-75 is more reasonable, especially if you bring your own parts. they do have bills to pay and expensive equipment, but that's no excuse for them to inflate prices like that. they should focus on repeat customers instead of getting one big payment from a person and scaring them away.
yea mine is worth about 1500 bucks in the states...pretty cheap
If you hit the ball joint just below the rubber boot with a large hammer it will pop out mate.
Mike Woods this one was very stuck
By the look of your tools I can tell that you dont do repairs verry often!
Wish/ hope it is this easy on my old A8. God these cars eat front suspension parts for breakfast every couple of years! Good job these bugger are about $30 each x4. I believe they have twice the number of control arms than a normal car.
+Jacana Productions Ha, ha a year later and I didn't even see my post! Gotta love Audi suspension $$$$ and I guess now i'm a little wiser and know the bloody difference between a control arm and tie rod!
@@JacanaProductions you need to pay for comfort.
@@gigel99324 looking back at my old A8 D2 I see now it was not that expensive to maintain. Shite just paid $600 to change the bloody spark plugs on my highlander!
dam rounded the fekking top nut off 2 issues cant get it out ill have to chisel its top end off then drop it that ok however the dam spare part does not include top nut only uk pffts
thanks
welcome
I'm here because Reno Tahoe Audi is quoting me at 1600$ to replace them and i have the parts already purchased. Fuck that I'm doing it myself thank you for your video!
Audi's are a fucking nightmare to work on.
that they are
THANKS GARY
Well, you can't join a union you done that very quick and no nonsense
haha that's for sure
If the nut is gone I think you can hammer it out with some kind of rod and a hammer
getting into the inner joint
Yea i figured as much now after watching your video. I think even $50 would be reasonable for a shop to replace the bad tie rod end lol. Base on the video you can probably replace a tie rod in no more than 10 minutes time. Why cant these local mechanic shops be more resonanle instead cheating their way out from the locals.
Because this guy cheated and preheated the bolt connections with the torch before shooting the video
rounded top nut off took me days to figure what to do finally i hacksaw it off replaced nut got nut 1.78 uk money AUDI DEALERS SOLVED
went audi dealers got one cheap thanks gary
Those tools are older than you, sir.
i take it you're one of those people who sees a little rust and goes crazy with the penetrating oil. wont make a difference. these parts aren't built by fairies, they can take some pounding, or light tapping in this case. didnt do what you said and didnt have to pay dosh...my way is ok.
pick audi a4 1998 up uk for bout 500 pounds
Audi wants $1350 to do this exact job - 99 Audi A4 - yikes...
Where did you fix this problem and how long did it take and what was the cost
Ramiro Martinez I have a 05 S4, the inner and outer tie rods cost $98 using Lemforder and I did the job complete in like 2hrs.
there is dust cover can take off makes life easy
get audi a4 at price 700 pounds uk i pay £400 for mine but needs work work done whisbone which i did easy cheap i got audi a4 1998 model 18,cc engine r reg
150 is overpriced in my opinion, considering how easy it is to do
barbarian
ha, purist idiot
The screw driver and hammer are pretty rusty mr better than me
barbarian