1966 Chevelle - Replacing the Dutchman Panel
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- Instead of patching pieces and parts of the lower rear window seal area and the trunk seal, I choose to replace the whole Dutchman Panel.
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Excellent work.
Doing the exact same panel on my 66 here in the UK.
Very informative and helpful.
Thanks, good luck on your project!
Keep up the good work.. been following this chevelle build for awhile.. can't wait to see it finished.
Thanks, it came out awesome in the end!
Also what I did on the sail panel is drilled 3 holes on each and the new panel so that I was able to put a bolt through it and use a nut to pull them together to the perfect width all the way crossed on both sides... worked pretty well.
I just found your channel. I sure am enjoying it. I'm hoping to start on my 66 chevelle this summer.
Thanks for watching, good luck on your car!
Since I removed the trunk floor to install a new one, I found out that with the Chevelle on a car lift I can stand under it and have a nice acess to spot weld the Dutchman panel in place. If you have to lay inside the trunk, it's much harder.
Great Tip!!!! Thanks
How do you spot welded the sail panel in the trunk? The trunk lid hinge structure gets in the way of the MIG torch. Thanks for any light on the issue. '67 Chevelle owner in Brazil!
I think you are talking about the sail panel to the Dutchman panel, correct? If so, It Just Sucks. I have done it with a mig, but I have a flex neck on my mig gun which lets me move the nozzle around a few obstacles. (www.usaweld.com/Flexible-Neck-MIG-Gun-s/533.htm) If you can get a spot welder, those work a little better for reaching in there, use as long of tongs as you can get. (amzn.to/2IeUhoY)
Finally, since most of my builds are custom, I usually weld up that seam on the outside and smooth the whole area.
Hope this helps!
Jeff
Thanks Jeff. Very helpful advice!
I am having to change the same panel on my 66, I popped out the rear glass and notices the bottom channel that the rear window sits in is all rusty and I can't find the part to replace so I will just replace the whole dutchman, from there back everything is good, but I want to know if you could tell me where the spot welds are located generally so I can start to remove the panel, thank you.
The spot welds are located in the window channel , about every 2-3”. But it really varies on the build plant and who was working that day. The easiest way to remove that panel is to cut the top skin off about a 1/2” in from the edges and then remove all of the spot welds and perimeter metal. It’s not terribly hard, just takes a lot of time trying to get it all welded back in.
You might consider just cutting out the window channel and replacing that piece only, if the rest is good.
Jeff
@@AllisonCustoms Thank You Jeff, this helps me a lot, still thinking weather to just replace the panel or just the damaged part, thanks again for your help, I was doing some wire wheel work today and I found the spot welds, like you said with a little bit of elbow grease and some surgical drilling of spot welds I believe that the panel will come up with some what ease, thanks again, will let you know how it came out.
Please Do!
I always put dynamat under a rear shelf when I replace it. I use epoxy sealer instead of rattlecan. That stuff will eventually fail.
Epoxy can be a great product. The rattle can stuff is easy and since the factory put nothing back there, still miles ahead of that.
hey Jeff, can you please tell me where you obtained that sail panel? I need two of those and can't find 'em anywhere. thanks and great vids.
I bought a full quarter panel for the driver’s side and it would not fit. So I cut the sail off and sectioned the qtr to make it all work. Then welded the sail back on. I wouldn’t recommend that method for most projects, but it was what this one required.
The qtr came from Auto Metal Direct.
thank u much for your time and quick response. looks like i'll have to improvise. keep up the good work.
I did this exact thing and was able to replace my gutter edge that you're talking about using my old filler panel that I cut out. Check out my video ruclips.net/video/_8_g-zOcjgQ/видео.html starting at about 3 min in. Bad news is is it looks like you cut yours right along the area that you needed for how I did it.
Thx for the link
all that padding is going to do is trap moisture & cause more rust.
The “padding” is a closed cell foam that does not hold or trap moisture. Additionally with everything now welded up solid, and the rear window area sealed, there is no entry point for liquids. I would not suggest using any type of material that holds moisture or leaving the weep holes around the window moldings that were common in the these types of vehicles, especially when filling the trunk with carpet and modern electronics.
Thanks for pointing out a potential issue - if the wrong materials are used, and Thanks for watching!