US-24-250W Fan Replacement - UPDATE!
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- Опубликовано: 25 фев 2019
- ▶ Check out my gear on Kit: kit.co/crosstalk
Here is an update to last week's video on the US-24-250W fan replacement - thanks everyone for all of your feedback!
Amazon links:
US-24-250W: geni.us/8Be5
Noctua NF-A4x20: geni.us/xEZu
2-pin to 3-pin adapter (2-pack): geni.us/OXtKA
Crosstalk Store on Amazon - RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS: www.amazon.com/shop/crosstalk...
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Amazon Wish List: a.co/7dRXc67
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RTFM:
"The NF-A4x20 FLX comes with Low-Noise (NA-RC10) and Ultra-Noise
Adaptors (NA-RC12) that allow you to reduce the fan speed from 5000
to 4400rpm (NA-RC10) and 3700rpm (NA-RC12) in order to achieve
even quieter operation."
Nice update on the video and keep them coming!
I measured the adapters to find which is which. The RC10 adds a 50 ohms resistor in line, the RC12 adds a 150 ohms resistor, so it will be the slower one.
I really appreciate you posting this follow-up video.... The level of detail and clarification. Great job!
Probably the best opener ever
I'm building a house and planning out a full Unifi setup. I'm a SysAdmin by day and your videos have been very helpful. Thank you. Subbed.
Glad I waited 'till closer to the end of your video -- I was going to mention that you absolutely don't need the 'low noise' adapters, however, you also don't need the 2 pin adapter. I just lined up the + and - cables on the Noctua connector to match the OEM orientation and they worked perfectly. Less cable clutter that way, too. :)
Just a PSA; You don't absolutely need the 2-pin to 3-pin adapter. If I was ordering everything new I'd very likely get them; but I didn't use them, I just matched the wires and moved it over. It's been running fine for over 1 year in such a way in 24/7 use.
I know that this is an older video now but literally about to do this upgrade to a US-48-PoE today 😄 so thanks for confirming I’ve bought the correct fans… here’s hoping my network cupboard stops sounding like a Boeing 🙌🏼
Thank You for sharing and point us to the correct fan type to use!
Just came to this video after watching you review of the gen2 switch. Not sure why I didn’t think of upgrading the fans on my current switches. I will be ordering the Noctua fans today. Thanks for the great explanation.
Great way to explain the way those fans work, so we can apply those concepts to other devices to reduce noise. Like Edison said , I didn’t find 450 wrong way to make a light bulb, just one that worked.
Cheers and keep it going
Appreciate the follow-up video + the links. Sometimes it can be hard to buy the Noctua fans on Amazon at a good price. I need to review what fans I have in my gear to make sure I have the 20mm depth ones. I have a feeling I used NoiseBlocker ones in the ERPRo8 but the Noctua ones in the Unifi PoE & 48 port switches.
I am glad the actual issue you had in the first place, is resolved too !
Should have started this with 'You are wrong' to fit into the YT tradition haha.
Great vid as usual. Love the fact that you do follow up. If you learn something everyday it’s a good day
I love that philosophy...
Awesome fans, just threw them in my USG-PRO-4 and it has made a world of a difference.
Thanks for the update, going for the whole home Unifi network upgrade. Will continue to use my Untangle UTM running on Dell PC for router, firewall, etc. The only issue I have are the vLANS configure in Untangle UTM not working with my TP-Link T1600G-28PS switch. The TP-Link APs EAP330 work great but will retire.
Switch US-24-250W
Switch 8-150W
Switch 8-60W
Cloud Key Gen2 Plus
AP-AC-HD (1)
AP-nanoHD (2)
So useful - thanks for the additional content - really appreciated!!
Thanks for your awesome videos regarding Ubiquiti equipment. I have a small comment regarding the physical installation of the new Noctua fans: If you install the fans with the “logo” visible from the outside of the switch, the air will flow from the outside to the inside as soon as the fans start running.
In the original setup (with the fans on the left side of the chassis) the air flows from outside to inside with the standard fans. My suggestion is to install the Noctua fans with the logo pointing to the inside of the switch to make the air flow from inside to outside like the original config.
Hi Chris,you should, to, measure temp with the fans blowing air in, and blowing the air out. Or/and one fan in and the other on the other side blowing out, making the air flow naturally. I love your videos, ive learned a lot.
Glad I watched the update, I didn't think any 40mm was going to be able to keep it both quiet and cool. Saves me a whole lot of work now. Although I am still tempted to put some big even slower fans on top.
Great vid... You don't swear often, but when you do, it's perfect!
Did it accidentally right... thanks for your advice. Always helpful
Geez... You almost make me feel bad for commenting. LOL I know we all meant it as helpful criticism, no malintent. Anyway, glad the new fans worked out for you! Keep up the good work!
Easy mistake to make Chris. I did the exact same thing when I was preparing to make a video on swapping out the fans on the USG Pro 4 - which is crazy loud. So don't let the internet beat you up!
You are correct. The 12 is the Ultra low. I used two with ultra low in my USG 4. The temps barely raised but the noise is virtually gone.
glad it worked. enjoy the beer
Chris, you done good. Keep up the videos, and share what beer that was.
Good job! Thanks
Here, an extract I made from the Unifi forums, and please RFM : Noctua provide the OmniJoint solution, you need simply a pari of scissors and a pliers, to make it possible !
I had to change over 24 UWS-24P-250W and USG-Pro-4P fans as this was a nightmare, and from I can see ../.. SEE BELOW ALL THE TEST AND DEPLOYMENT DETAILS
You can use the same model for both USG and USG : Noctua NF-A4-20 FLX (nf-a4x20-flx)
Note : the NF-A4-10 is having 1-2 db more, and this can make a huge difference at the end.
On the USG-4P-pro :
install with the Noctua elastic supports, this reduce even more the noise
you can use the default, low and ultra low noise adapter without issue :
default speed : same temperature expected, and 2 db less
low noise : temporature 2 degrees more, and 2-3 db less
ultra low noise : temporature 5 degrees more, and 5 db less (really silent)
On the USW-24-250W revision 1 (4 fans) :
you can install the same fans, and have 2 or 4 fans
install with the Noctua elastic supports, as the hole are so badly shape, that this doesn't works fluently
due to the "dual zone design" : the motherboard is having 2 voltage by default :
pin 1 : high voltage (PSU zone)
pin 2 : low votage (CPU zone)
pin 3 : high voltage (PSU zone)
pin 4 : low votage (CPU zone)
the result :
4 fans, full speed, temperature 2 degrees higher, speed the same and 10 db less
4 fans, low fans speed for the CPU zone, temperature 5 degres highers, speed at 20% more and 8 db less
2 fans, full speed fan, temperature 10 degres highers, speed at 20% more and 12 db less
2 fans, low fans speed for the CPU zone, NOT TESTED
On the USW-24-250W revision 2 (2 fans) :
you can install the same fans, and have 2 or 4 fans
due to the "dual zone design" : the motherboard is having 2 voltage by default :
pin 1 : high voltage (PSU zone)
pin 2 : low votage (CPU zone)
pin 3 : high voltage (PSU zone)
pin 4 : low votage (CPU zone)
the result :
4 fans, full speed, temperature 5 degrees lower, speed the same and 5 db less
4 fans, low fans speed for the CPU zone, temperature2 degres less, speed at 20% less and 5 db less
2 fans, full speed fan, temperature 2 degres highers, speed at 20% more and 4 db less
2 fans, low fans speed for the CPU zone, NOT TESTED
Recommendations :
for the USW-24-250, do the operation only one time, the screw are so bad quality, that it's almost impossible, even with the proper PH000 screwdriver to have it done properly !
Use as much as possible the Noctua elastic support
NO, you don't need adapter for the 3 PIN to the 2 PIN design, Noctua provide the OmniJoin solution, you need just to read the manual !
Awesome!, I love Noctua fans....I put all Noctua in my 4U server chassis...that's all I run in my custom water cooled gaming rig too.
I did the Noctua fans on my USG pro and it was very nice to have that quiet. Those stock fans had some high pitched noise that was like nails on a chalkboard. However I have a unifi 48p poe 500w and inside that are 8 header pins for fans, but of course only 4 fans installed. I found slightly quieter fans for much cheaper and am going to try installing those into the switch. I'll have to verify base levels of temp vs replacements and then even adding more fans. Great video! Thank you for posting the original issue and your fix.
is it the same fans in the USG-Pro as the 24p 250w switch?
@@jasonharris7976 Not sure, I have not opened a 24p switch, but I would assume they would be same/similar.
What fans did you end up using? Model helps, you like them?
Awesome work Chris with your channel 😃!
Question on the fans: would using 40mm fans iso 20mm give even better noise reduction results?
Thank you for the update. I have raid server with a ton of these 40mm fans and that thing is so loud. Thinking I'm going to have to try replacing them with these Noctua. Also had zero idea that the deeper fans pulled more air than the thinner ones... The more you know... :-)
I ran 16 cooler master sickleflow fans in a corsair 900D build that had 6 radiators in it. Pretty freaking cool since I barely got above 30'C when gaming on an SLI setup. However, the fans were so loud. I switched to Noctua and will never go back. Noctua fans are literally the best fans I've had. So glad the 120mm varients are now coming in black. Got my USG-PRO-4 & US-48 fan replacements en route. :)
Jerad, how did those go for you?
Hi,
thank you so much for teaching us how to do it, I have a questions about that if you can help me please, how is the temperature going there? What’s the average you’re seeing? Thanks again,
Those low-noise adapters are just a resistor to limit current, if you were wondering.
@@kjeldschouten-lebbing6260 It depends on how they are driven. It may also lower voltage- voltage, current and resistance are all related. Those adapters are just a resistor and a connector.
Volt and Amp are never seperate
Well actually its done with Voltage divider circuit. If u have stable incoming voltage you can reduce the voltage by adding two resistors passing from the 12V rail to the GND/Ground and taking the mid point of the divider with the lowered voltage. The formula is simple as R2=(Vout)(R1)/(Vin-Vout)
@@ivanmitev4172 Yep you're probably right, I didn't think this comment through all the way.
I'm a big fan ;-)
Ask me if I like a good string joke; I'm afraid not. Ha ha kinda like the big fan pun lol
It's worked with ER-8 also, doesn't need 3-pin to 2-pin converter as the factory fan also using the 3-pin port and doesn't need to enlarge the screw hole...
And the beautiful thing with Noctua fans; they push more air than most stock fans!
Could you do a video where you do this mod on a usg-pro?
You do not need any 2pin adaptors just plug original 3pin connector just select correct 2 pins (yes it fits in place I did it with my 25-250W).
For not spinning the fan - the fan speed is controlled by voltage and if fan speed is at 30% it may not start with low noise adaptors. Tried this my self, on the PSU side fan starts to spin a bit later after power on.
Hi Chris, i think you have possibly answered this before, but where did you get that t shirt? cheers.
all those low noise adapters are is just a simple resister inline with the positive of the cable which just restricts how much voltage goes to the fan
I also found that turning off POE on ports that don’t need it seemed to get the temps down a bit. Nice upgrade!
Interesting - I'll have to test that out.
Thanks, I replaced the standard fans in the USG Pro without the filters and all is quiet again (coming from the USG) NF-A4x20 FLX are like gold dust, waited 2 months for them in the UK
I would have used a voltmeter and tested the resistance of the adapters . Higher resistance would be the lower rpm obviously
I just purchased the 24 port switch with 95 watts Poe. I’m running this at my home , 5 g4 pro cameras and an AP pro ,and although I’m under the max draw , I’m not vert happy with the purchase now ,as I like headroom .
If I seen this video earlier ,I may have opted for this switch .
Btw thank you for your channel, as I’m old and not the most savvy at IT , and I installed my dream machine pro ,switches , AP’s , cameras etc , with no issues after watching your videos
Do you still need to drill out the holes if you use these new fans?
But what about the heat? Is the switch running hotter or cooler?
Anyone know if it made the units cooler? Meaning, did the fans drop from 70% to 50% or similar? Love to know that experience as well!
Would also like to replace the Untangle UTM with a Ubiquiti product in order to have a single pane of glass.
Chris do you need a four pin to2 pin adapter to make the funds work please let me know David
Also are they the 420 fans rpm version
Something to keep in mind is that the stock Delta fans are 9000 RPM fans. These Noctura fans are only 5000 RPM (without the adapters). Considerably less airflow. While the Noctura fans are quieter, you're not moving anywhere near as much air as the stock fans.
Right and I believe that most people do not realize this. I am going to be testing the factory fans slowed down.
For some reason only one of my fans spins. The other starts to spin if I flick it. I checked the wiring and a single fan works in both connections, however, plug in a second and it won’t start. Any ideas?
If you measure the internal volume, and add some rubber spacers to insulate the fans, switching to blower style intake or centrifugal fans might help.
Especially useful in rack gear, but it needs to be given a lot of room to breathe. you can also put 140mm blowers in a 1RU type case if they have a lot of 'dead space' used for passive convection, just don't expect the blowers to ramp up or produce as much static airflow as a well-made 20mm fan.
The difference is mainly that they don't sound great at low RPM, and they're not as purely efficient as regular axial fans. Static pressure is also not great, i.e. if there's no room for the blowers to inhale or exhale, they'll just rattle /whine loudly instead of work harder.
Just replaced the fans with the Noctua NF-A4x20 FLX and it works great. Decibel measured against the case dropped from ~60db to 40-45db. It's really silent now. I did not want to drill bigger holes, in case I need to return it some day, so I used the silicon anti-vibration mounts. Used them a bit different though. Pulled the 'F' first through case-hole and then through fan since pulling 'C' through the smaller hole did not work. Disadvantage is that a small silicon ring is on the outside of the case and therefore the cover is a bit open/does not fit tight anymore. But I'm ok with that. I'm measuring my Unifi setup a while now with unifi-poller, which gives me much more metrics and allows graph for longer period. It seems that the switch temperature is up by 3 degrees C with these fans to 45 C. But that's still well below the 63 C of the 'Unifi 24 switch without POE and no active cooling'. Very happy with the result. Thanks for the great video.
Ps. Just connected the 3-pin connector of the Noctua fan to the 2-pin header on the board and it works fine.
Any issues after doing this 3pin to 2pin on board?
Would have been more helpful to show how the 3 pin fan properly fits with the two pins inside. Assumed to use the left two and it seems to work. Also if the old fans should be kept in or if it helps airflow to have them gone, drilling out the holes for the new fans, making sure the fans are the right direction etc.
I know I'm late to the show, but I assume the Noctua fans have a slighty less throughput than the original fans. So I would consider to build in 4 Noctua. Two pushing in the air and two pushing out the air. That will significantly rise the air that is going through the case as the fans doesn't need to fight so much pressure and the noise should stay the same.
A 50ohm dropper after the boards own internal fan controller could easily drop it below the stall voltage of the fan.
In other words there wasn’t enough magnetism in the coils to rotate the rotor to the next magnetic field so it was trapped between opposite fields and that creates the shuttering blades.
Hey Chris, how does this mod compare to the sound level of the new Gen 2 switches?
For anyone wondering about the Gen2, I just received a Gene Switch and they are passive cooling now so they are very quiet.
Late to the discussion - how do these fans impact the temps?
This video: How NOT to be The Verge.
The fan's voltage are temperature controlled, lower temperature means lower volts, with a low noise adapter the voltage goes below the point your fan starts......Also in many switches the yellow feedback wire is used to give fan rpm information to the system (I don't know if this is the case in Ubiquiti switches) when there is no feedback the fan's run in the highest speed to prevent (temperature) damage to the system or your system gives a fault (HP Procurve by example) so i would consult if you can use a 3 to 2 wire adaptor and not use the feedback wire.....
Those Low-noise adapters are probably just resistors, and the switch can't provide enough current for both of those fans with their resistors to start up at the same time.
The board in the switch is doing the same thing as the low-noise adapters - limiting voltage to effect fan speed. Likely, when you combined the low noise adapter with the switch's default fan level (slow) it wasn't enough to get the fan started.
I thought it may have been something like that too. Weird that one of them worked fine though.
@@CrosstalkSolutions It might just have been on the edge of working. I have that same phenomenon with the fans in my watercooling setup: Some fans just start a little bit earlier. I assume the reasons are manufacturing tolerances.
I dont buy fans for PC i buy noctuas.
The NF-A12x25 is just insane how good it is. Expensive tho , saving up for 6 of them for my watercooled PC.
I just bought a 24 port NON POE and the fan says its "off" is this normal? I assume then it goes on when the switch starts to take on a bigger load?
It seems all their non-POE switches function this way, they usually sit in an "off" state till they reach like, 60C or 70C. It's a shame they let them get so hot when the fans could keep them a wee bit cooler at a low speed.
One year later and the fans are sold out on Amazon. I’m sure they will get more. Question, is there fan(s) in the US-24 version and if so are they the same fans as the US-24 250w?
I just took my US-24 apart today thinking I could swap out for the fans for the same in the video. However I got a shock to find there is only a single 30mm noises fan inside the non Poe version and the other fans don’t fit. Also noctua don’t make a fan that will fit!
Hi, can you help me with choosing the right thing? In my church we have couple AP's AC LR, Unifi cloud key and Untangle security server. But I want to build the system that is operated from unifi controller. I want to buy USG Pro, but heard about problems with it. Did they fix the problems? Should I buy USG P, or stay on Untangle?
Thanks
If you are already used to all of the features that Untangle provides, you would be disappointed with the USG Pro - it's not as robust. Though, it is nice to control everything from one place.
Thanks Chris, I am staying with Untangle UTM. Can you have both USG Pro as the router and then place Untangle UTM in bridge mode.
Can you provide a video for the vLANs on Untangle with Unifi switch?
For the new fans do you still need to drill out the holes of the case to fit in new fans?
Yes, the Screws are bigger, I actually just used the rubber "screws" I also just loaded it with 4
If you are getting them to reduce noise, it's always better to use the silicone mounts instead of screws whenever possible. That will limit any vibration noise. You can also order more of those if you run out (they can snap when installing). Their part # is NA-SAV4 for 16 spares. That way, you don't have to risk drilling out bigger holes.
This is irrelevant but I sure hope to have an office with a view like you have!
I didn't the low noise adapters either
I'm glad it worked out for you. Hope my previous comment was not one of the ones to bring you to drink, lol. I try to be as cordial in my advice as possible.
I think the cause of that one fan not running with the adaptor could be the adjusted power going into it from the board. You mention running them at 70% through software, and depending on how that particular switch modulates power, that fan probably was not getting the needed juice for initial spool-up with the adapter cutting it down even more.
Those adapters are really only intended for applications in which you cannot adjust the speed through any other means. So I would stay away from adding any adapters in the Ubiquity switches. Since you are happy with the current setup I'd say it's a success. But for anyone else still looking for more, I'd use all four fan headers for four fans, running at a lower % to get a dead silent switch.
Good tips - thanks!
When are you going to live stream again? Seems like its been awhile.
Probably at 100k subscribers - so pretty soon!
Your poor liver! Jk jk. 4:26 beer disappeared. Pace yourself! Ha ha. Thanks for the honest videos.
I think I blew through 2 filming that video.
That's some beefy power supply!
Thanks for your vids!! I was wondering why you haven’t picked up on the open port hacking going on or are you busy trying to sort out your clients on the routers? Seems as though there’s an hack going round and they’re slow to close and sort this issue out.
He hasn't, because it's a 2016 issue.
plus I'm pretty sure the latest firmwares fix the issue
Ryan Gilbert thanks as I’m just about to sort out a new system
If you're talking about the port 10001 issue, yes -- it's old, it's been fixed and it also mainly affects WISP gear. UniFi isn't affected as far as I can tell.
Steve Pepin thank you! Trying to sort out a system from the ground up, with control 4 automation
noctua.at/media/blfa_files/manual/noctua_nf_a4x20_flx_manual_en.pdf
Reading a manual is hard... It clearly says which is the low noise/ultra low noise adapter...
Why read it when I always guess correctly??
If you can adjust the fan with the slider them you shouldn’t need any adapter
Btw the Unifi US-48 (non-PoE) has 30mm fans. Sad day.
Yes, you are right, they are smaller fans...any 30mm fan that you would recommend?
I’m Also struggling to find a decent 30mm fan as I have 2 x US-24 (non poe) switches and need to replace fans. Has anybody done this? Any recommendations on a fan? I’m in the UK
@@cragly8759 It's a very odd size of fan, so I don't think that many companies make them, at least for consumers. I gave up on trying to find a good one & stayed w/ stock on mine, since they're not all that loud in my use case.
Put these fans in my USG Pro4 Must more civilized
I got into the Ubiquity gear when I found the price to be cheaper then the recommended "gaming grade" bullshiz being peddled to people by places like Best Buy like what happened to my brother wanted a new wifi router cause his had poor signal to other side of house - refused to move it wanted to upgrade - paid 300 dollars for "gaming grade" router on best buy geek dudes suggestion - still had signal problems on other side of house - refused to admit he was taken in by high price = more value= better. its funny because my brother refused to take my opinion and refused to wait for 2 day shipping from Amazon/etc - Oh and still has not moved the router/etc switched to power-line based Ethernet (even after I offered to wire his house for each room to have Ethernet for small fee+cover cost of wire)
I bought a Unifi AC-AP-light centrally mounted in house - enough signal to each end of house easily - plan to upgrade in future to couple AC-pro's and move AC lite to garage in future.. should give signal to not only whole house - but part of the back yard / front yard too in future..
I found this channel by random googling about some minor setup stuff - been watching every few episodes (really enjoyed the camera episodes - gave me ideas I wish I had money for)
I wish I could do more stuff with ubiquity gear - just cant get anyone to pay for me to own a bunch to just to basically "play with" even if my playing with/tinkering with is considered a learning thing :(
Since I got the AP tho - Ive set up a Raspberry Pi - running Pihole / Unifi controller.. and before I got that - I replaced my one router with a edge-router XSFP that was on sale for 40-50$USD (replaced a more expensive router that was considered PWNED due to lack up firmware update/security update.. ) I almost got the Unifi router to work with the AP - but the edge-router XSFP was so stupid cheap in price and has worked solidly for me - I do look forward to the joining of Edge-router / unifi stuff in single management console idea - but so far its not there..