How to Install Shingles on a Shed | Ask This Old House
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- Опубликовано: 6 ноя 2021
- In this video, Ask This Old House general contractor Tom Silva shows a homeowner the proper way to reshingle an old shed’s roof.
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Tom Silva helps a homeowner replace the shingles on an old shed roof that has been leaking for some time. After discussing the signs to look for when determining the condition of a shingled roof, the two get started by removing the existing shingles and patching the damaged sheathing underneath.
Skill: ⅗
Cost: Around $115 per 100 square feet
Time: 4 hours, depending on the size of the shed
Shopping list
Plywood for damaged sheathing [thd.co/3mJbMk6]
Drip edge [amzn.to/3k3xbCI]
Roofing underlayment [thd.co/2YfbE28]
Staples [thd.co/31hEyQj]
Nails [thd.co/3ELgweS]
Roofing shingles [thd.co/3o1rhTY]
Scaffold planks [amzn.to/2ZR55mJ]
Tools
Ladders [amzn.to/3BHLMtx]
Pitchfork [amzn.to/3wqTt6x]
Circular saw [amzn.to/3bDVP8h]
Tin snips [amzn.to/3EHx5IJ]
Pencil [amzn.to/3BJ95mw]
Utility knife and blades [amzn.to/3CKSTCH]
Speed square [amzn.to/3EJSL70]
Safety glasses [amzn.to/3BKTfYN]
Hammer [amzn.to/3bFbyE4]
Staple gun [amzn.to/3we9lsD]
Tape measure [amzn.to/3mHbPwJ]
Chalk line [amzn.to/3CLq7Sm]
Roofing nailer [amzn.to/2ZNNxrY]
Where to find it?
Tom replaced the roof shingles with GAF Royal Sovereign Charcoal Algae Resistant 3-Tab Roofing Shingles [thd.co/3o1rhTY]. He also added GAF FeltBuster 1000 sq. ft. Synthetic Roofing Underlayment Roll. Both of these products are manufactured by GAF [www.gaf.com/en-us].
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From the makers of This Old House, America’s first and most trusted home improvement show, Ask This Old House answers the steady stream of home improvement questions asked by viewers across the United States. Covering topics from landscaping to electrical to HVAC and plumbing to painting and more. Ask This Old House features the experts from This Old House, including general contractor Tom Silva, plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey, landscape contractor Jenn Nawada, master carpenter Norm Abram, and host Kevin O’Connor. Ask This Old House helps you protect and preserve your greatest investment-your home.
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How to Install Shingles on a Shed | Ask This Old House
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Good god that is the most perfect plywood patch I have ever seen.
Tommy is a badass in home Renovations almost as good as Chuck Norris in, well just anything….
I agree, I would of had to attach some sleepers to the rafters in order to nail that patch home.
That’s what happens when you own a Festool.
A. K. A. 30+ years of hands on experience, he could do that in his sleep
@@nightfangs2910 ... how about 50+ years? Tom is 74 this year and will be 75 in January.
You can tell Tom genuinely loves what he does
Tommy has got to be the worlds greatest teacher when it come to anything construction related.
Tom's a good teacher next to Bob Vila. ?
😂😂😂 Gtfoh. This cat is an idiot
I drive 2 hours to work and back everyday. You probably don't realize how relaxing this show is to me. Thank you for this.
I hope you’re not watching youtube videos on your 2 hour drives everyday…. If you’re a responsible driver and dont drive distracted with youtube videos playing on your commute then why is that bit of information pertinent at all to the show being relaxing to you? You could drive 5 mins to and from work or ride a bus and wouldnt take away from any comforts of viewing a video. Watching it on a construction site while the plumbing, drywall, electrical, landscaping and trim work is all going on would however make anything less relaxing to anybody.. or watching while your 2 kids cry and fight over a set of water paints on the new furniture and carpet with your dog coming inside out of a rainstorm covered in mud and the wife is making dinner yelling at you to take out the trash and how you never do anything to help around the house threatening with divorce and taking the kids ans half your stuff after you work 6 days a week and she’s a stay at home mom but you already drive the kids to and from school, sports, get groceries, pay the bills, be a dad and pay for the wifes clothes and car.. now that would be the pinnacle of an unrelaxed environment directly relating to how maybe when you watch the show it relaxes you and brings a bit of uniformity and makes you remember the feeling of watching your dad in his workshop or doing repairs to things and being so getty when he let you think youre helping or teaching you little things you still remember about him after his passing hoping you might do the same in your life in imagination because your kids cry when you dont give them 100% of your attention and never have time to fix anything yourself from working 10 hour days 6 days a week and have 3 people who need your undivided attention for all the other 5 hours of sleep a night you get even on the one day off with the same thing to look forward to for another 18 years at least then another 20 until you qualify for retirement but know you wont live that long to be able to enjoy the fruit of your labors all the years making the others happy while you suffer quietly in the false hope of becoming old having a rocking chair looking out to the dewy fog of the mornings drinking your coffee with your smoking hot wife catering to your needs and wants free from pain and worries…. Sorry, i want to die.. badly.. in a hole somewhere alone so wouldnt be anybodies burden to bury me after, just let the dirt fall over me or animals eat me if they choose…. God i hate my life..
I hope you get some help, Zack. Praying for you.
U ok z act😮
lol, right,
Hey watch the road bro!!😂
Tom Silva is an American treasure
Just got my roof replaced and they gave me enough shingles to do my shed. Great timing on finding this video.
The way Tommy says “pitchfork” is so hilarious and endearing.
If there was one celebrity I’d love to have coffee with (besides Tom Hanks), it would be Tom Silva. No joke!
Tom hanks is a pathetic individual. His own son can't stand him and his pathetic liberalism
It would probably be at a Dunkin Donuts.
I've roofed many sheds. Never needed the chalk lines. The first shingle basically serves as a cornerstone, I just make sure it has the proper over hang on the top left rake side and both bottom corners on eave side. The only time I've used a chalk line was on an owner built garage with a bow out on the eave sides. His idea of centering the shingles is cool as well as leaving space between fascia and drip edge. There should be more information on ridge caps and installing the final steps of it.
Understood but a chalk line only takes a few
Minutes and give assurance as you go so work goes faster . Any way to each his own .
I've been watching Tommy for decades, since I was a kid. Tommy is a national treasure for sure.
Tom-I have 2 sheds on my property that need shingles replaced-come film another episode using Architectural shingles…PLEASE.
Kidding-but I will watch this AGAIN before I take on the job-Thanks
They normally say the underlament goes over the bottom drip edge. But the side drip edges go on top of the underlament being used. I wonder why they didn't do it that way?
I’d be like: “uh Tom can you show me this ten more times. My head is spinning.”
Tom's WTF hat is awesome!
Never as easy as this old house crew makes it look
They edit all the mistakes out and just give you the clean version. In construction things are never smooth sailing.
You guys are awesome. THANK YOU! Tom is worth alot. He's extremely knowledgeable.
I find this lesson to be of value...However when I did a shed roof lately.I found that it was much faster if I laid the starter course and then I centered my first course on a line from the center of drip edge to the ridge...and took a good look at it...I found that this worked very well for me..So I vertically centered justified everything..and worked from center out.. both edges looked uniform in all their widths and measures...And I did not have to do the whole work from the outside in kind of thing..And I trimmed the vertical drip edges when I was done, with a chalk line and a dewalt trim saw..A word of caution! the blade will be no good after that...However it did work well for me...My best for you and yours ..Jim
Was the vertical lines chalked every 6"? This was not explained in the video.
That separation between drip edge and fascia is so important yet very often overlooked. Ever since i learned this from Tommy i see it incorrectly done everywhere!!
What’s the reason for not going flush to the facia ? Is it because the water will run down facia board
Correct. Even though drip-edge has a slight bend at the end, if it is flush to fascia the droplets at this bend can contact the fascia and run down it instead of dripping off the drip-edge. Surface tension can cause water to run up under the slightly overhung shingles and onto the drip edge. What he does gives more separation from wooden fascia. Commonly roofers only rely on overhang provided by the shingles.
Tommy is a genius. I used his picnic table plans and built 3 picnic tables for myself.
U must eat alot!
@@edwardfabik3582 Ha, ha. No it had more to do with boredom.
@@AStanton1966 With wood prices, you must be bored AND rich. 😆
@@truthbetold1855 You got it half right. I am bored, but built the tables before lumber prices went North. Let's Go Brandon!
Tom: “let’s get this stuff outta here and I can get out of your hair.”
Me: “please stay. I have a million other projects that need your help.”
we recommend underlayment under drip edge, especially with gutters and bad winters, also ridge caps should be trimmed 1 inch from edges, this allows them to sit down better and protects from high winds…
Would you lay the underlayment then. Drip edge, side drip edge. Then more underlayment? This would be the best way but never seen anyone do it.
I've never seen roofers snap a chalk line. But love his videos
I need to watch this awesome video on & on till i learn it Thanks
Good starter video but the most challenging part for a newbie like me was glossed over a bit (vertical chalk lines, offsetting shingle measurements, etc). I will have to search for more info on that
Awsome stuff!!
Thank you!
Outstanding video 👍👍
About removing the clear cellophane strip over the tar. Remove or don't remove is very controversial without end and will never be resolved. The companies usually say on their wrapping to leave the clear strips on. They
put the strips on so the tar will not stick to the shingle above it in the bundle of shingles. Also the cellophane keeps the tar clean. The sellers of shingles like that part as the tar is clean and works right. In the right heat from the sun the tar melts through the cellophane so the clear strip is not an issue. The tar then works as it should. In colder places the tar does not go through the cellophane so does not stick to the shingle that gets laid over it.
There are many reports of iffy performance with the cellophane left on. That is it took a long time of several months for the tar to go through the cellophane. In some cases the tar never goes through the cellophane. All tar is not the same. All cellophane is not the same. All manufacturers instructions are not the same. So it is a choice of the roofer as to what way they want to go, pull off the clear strip or leave it on. My opinion is to leave the clear strip on until the shingle gets laid. Remove the clear strip, then lay the shingle. The tar will be clean and have the best chance regardless of heat or cold to stick to the shingle above it. Unfortunately there no agreement with professional roofers. You'll find their opinions all over the place. What works in Florida is not necessarily what works in Maine. The time of year makes a difference. The tar may not melt until the next season in either case, shaded roof, long periods of cloudy weather & etc.
Maybe he will come over to your house and tuck you in at night, making sure there are no evil spirits under your bed. While he's there, maybe you can get his autograph and shine his boots up for him. Wouldn't that be fun?
A ruff I can’t I’m dying 🤣🤣
the felt should go down before installing drip edge on the rakes, the drip edge on the rakes will hold down the felt and any water getting in along the rake will go down the roof on top of the felt. installing the way he showed will allow water to get in under the felt on the rake, which will rot the sheathing.
The idea of felt on top of drip edge is prevent water from wicking under drip edge, which it can do when roof shingles start failing. On my 12 x16 shed, I did not use a metal drip edge. It is all PT wood construction. I laid down Tyvek Protec 200 and put it over the edge. Then my 2x4 roof edge molding is nailed on top of it and the 2x6 rafters. The eave since bottom rafters are 73 degree angle, water just drips off and it cant get under to the OSB
@scottdowney4318 most don't use a molding as you described. Installing the UL over the side drip edge could allow water to get underneath.
Great video, helped me shingle my first shed. However the measurements are glossed over a bit. How do you center the shingles so there is no small sections, given you offset each row? Also on my shed I almost ran into an issue where the nails on the 2nd side were almost between the shingle tabs, given the shingle size and roof size. Also my shingles are 13 inches tall, not 12?
Anyway, hard to pack all that info into a 12 minute video so thank you! Shed looks great
How does he nail the last cap on the edge? He didn't show what he was doing at the end.
Tom Silva is gold. Been watching This Old House from the begining aswell as Bob Vila.
I've been watching Tom Silva for some time now. He is "old school," but at least he knows his stuff. He's a true craftsman. When Bob Vila was doing anything, in my opinion, he looked like a puppet on a string. He didn't know what he was talking about half the time. I thought he was a total idiot. That's probably why they got rid of him.
Tommy Rocks
hmm 20 years after that they need replacing huh always learning something from tom
Now I know what to do on my lean-to shed. Just have to replace the entire rotten ply roof first.
Couple beers good friends classic rock playing good time.
11:50 he was dead serious and my guy was like hell no.... hehehe you gotta have balls of steel to stand on a pitched roof doing this... luckily i was crazy enough to join the army... thanks for the vid. starting with my shed :)
TOM!!
I've seen others cut the roof cap shingles on an angle. Why wasn't that done here? What's the best approach?
I love that his hat says WTF HAHAHA
IMPORTANT: When fastening FeltBuster High-Traction
Synthetic Roofing Felt, do not use nails or staples without
caps. Use only plastic cap, corrosion-resistant nails or staples with plastic caps.
Do not install roofing felt in the manner shown in this video it would be detrimental to the longevity and functionality as well as completely void the gaf warranty.
I’ve sold a few million in roofs. But I ain’t ever seen a drip edge that wide up the roof 😂 norandex, rollex, etc.
you learn something new everyday
Love the Hat 🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂
Do you use the same method/roofing shingles for a low pitch roof?
Idk why nobody replied to your question, but yes. Every pitch is installed the same. 6" offset on literally every standard shingle on the market
What do you do if plywood underneath is saturated with water when you remove the shingles?
so you keep cutting for the offset..... and if the roof is taller, longer... on the vertical, then you start over with the offset ?? the offsets just keep repeating ???
Tommy ... Very timely project. My shed has about one more season's worth of life and needs replacement. Also ... LOVE your hat. As a Navy vet, I knew exactly what it meant. Where can I get one ?
What's it mean?
@@alexanderzerka8477 They are 3 Navy Signal Flags. In the order on the hat: W (Whiskey), T (Tango), F (Foxtrot). In Sailor lingo, its code for "What The F______"
@@thomasbrovarone7136 Eye c. Thank you for deciphering!
@@thomasbrovarone7136 I'm sure you've already found the hat on Belted Cow by now?
@@alexanderzerka8477 Wife already got me one.
I like this video but my shed roof is a lean to style roof so how do i install the drip edge at the top edge
No, use aluminum flashing at the top and add sealant above it.
Good video except you didn't explain the vertical lines very well. how much over do we measure from the left edge on the first shingle? looks like you cut about a half inch off when you said measure to length. overlap the 1/2-in on the left edge, then cut off a half an inch? then you start using the notches to line up the overlapping shingles?
( i answered something like this on a another comment so i just copied and pasted it hope this helps) there’s multiple ways to do it. on roofs like the video with a straight rake you want to put your tape over the drip whatever you want as over hang say 1” is what you want then you’d hold it past the drip a inch and mark it on 12” the height of the shingle.(which is the full shingle not cut like in the video, you need a starter up the rake unlike in the video, depends but on code where you live but recommend it highly) while you mark this overhang for the rake you want to mark 30” and 36” so now you have your over hang and 6” offset. the reasoning for 30” and 36” is you’ll only cut one shingle the whole way up not both. do this at the top and bottom and there’s your “vertical lines” aka bonds. now a hip roof there’s many ways to get your bonds, many. i have always popped my “ horizontal lines” then place the shingle straight up on a horizontal line you want the end of the shingle to sit square “flat on the horizontal line but the shingle straight upwards vertical” you want to then mark where the top of the shingle is on the side and the bottom then you can move the shingle have someone at the top and you at the bottom and make sure both marks you just made line up with the chalk line. pop it and then measure 6” from that line you just popped and chalk it. there’s your bonds and on a hip roof if you want to truly know if your bonds are square bc there’s no rake you can use the 3-4-5 or 6-8-10 method to see how square the bonds you just poped are then adjust as needed if even needed if you do it right you really never have to unless it’s a very big section. i tried to explain the best i could in this i’m sorry but this is for people wondering. NOTE there is many ways to do this and this isn’t the only way. but this is the method i’ve used everyday for years most people would agree. unless you just don’t use lines and use the precut tabs but don’t recommend for beginners.
My first house, the builder never pull the protective paper of the glue strip! First cold winter day, the contractor was on the roof pulling strips off. Air temp was 20° but surface was almost 80°, never had trouble after that.
Back in the mid 1980's it was standard roofing practice not to use tar paper or any underlayment.
@@AStanton1966 He's not talking about underlayment.
The little plastic strip is for the shingles not to stick together in their bundle. It doesn't line up with the adhesive line on the shingles that bonds them once the s u n heats them up. Pulling that off is a complete waste of time and has nothing to do do with a proper installation.
last shingles I helped put on a friends shed roof, the instructions on that protective paper said do not remove when installing.
national treasure
Installing the drip edge before the underlayment completely defeats the purpose of the drip edge… youre allowing water to leak in under the underlayment at the edges.
Tommy goes just below the adhesive line & other videos the roofer goes just above it so there's not a chance of water making its way to the nail head. I'm doing a small repair job & really not sure what's the best nail location.
tommy said the adhesive is there to keep the shigles from blowing up from the wind. So I gotta think waterproofing is not an issue the adhesive line deals with. so nail above or just below. doesn't matter.
If I am a rich man I will call Tom and asked this old house do some project in my lovely country Timor Leste...
They're bad when they start barking... Rough, roof, ruff woof!
3 tab? LOL I had to check and see if the video was from the 1980s
they still sell them, although most roofers never use them on houses.
How do you do the last roof cap layer? Do you just have an exposed nail? Or is there some way to hide it?
Not an expert but the nails on the ridge caps are covered by the overlap of the next shingle, just like on all the rest of the shed.
@@c5zataol930 Ya. That's definitely true, but the last one you put on won't have another shingle to overlap it. How do you secure that one down without a nail poking through.
I believe you would have a few nails on the last ridge cap, then seal over the nail heads with roof caulking. I’ve seen them even sprinkle loose granules from the shingles onto the sealant for more protection
@@fredkennedy8435 there should be waterproof tar that you would use for say any vents you may have so take a dab on your finger and cover the nail hole
@@c5zataol930 "the last roof cap layer?"
Putting the shingles on is the same but the roof prep is totally different
Really clean work just baffled you aren't using a hook blade to cut the shingles
I want to work with tom
A ruff?
what are measurements for vertical lines?
I know, seems like a large chunk of info is missing.
there’s multiple ways to do it. on roofs like the video with a straight rake you want to put your tape over the drip whatever you want as over hang say 1” is what you want then you’d hold it past the drip a inch and mark it on 12” the height of the shingle.(which is the full shingle not cut like in the video, you need a starter up the rake unlike in the video, depends but on code where you live but recommend it highly) while you mark this overhang for the rake you want to mark 30” and 36” so now you have your over hang and 6” offset. the reasoning for 30” and 36” is you’ll only cut one shingle the whole way up not both. do this at the top and bottom and there’s your “vertical lines” aka bonds. now a hip roof there’s many ways to get your bonds, many. i have always popped my “ horizontal lines” then place the shingle straight up on a horizontal line you want the end of the shingle to sit square “flat on the horizontal line but the shingle straight upwards vertical” you want to then mark where the top of the shingle is on the side and the bottom then you can move the shingle have someone at the top and you at the bottom and make sure both marks you just made line up with the chalk line. pop it and then measure 6” from that line you just popped and chalk it. there’s your bonds and on a hip roof if you want to truly know if your bonds are square bc there’s no rake you can use the 3-4-5 or 6-8-10 method to see how square the bonds you just poped are then adjust as needed if even needed if you do it right you really never have to unless it’s a very big section. i tried to explain the best i could in this i’m sorry but this is for people wondering. NOTE there is many ways to do this and this isn’t the only way. but this is the method i’ve used everyday for years most people would agree. unless you just don’t use lines and use the precut tabs but don’t recommend for beginners.
Does everyone in construction develop a bad back over time? If so I need to quit asap I don’t want to be hunched over at 50 years over
Are the roofers supposed to pull off the clear plastic strips protecting the adhesive on each shingle before nailing them in place? I didn't see any of those clear strips on the shingles in the video, but my roofer didn't remove them when he installed my roof.
I think you’re right. That’s what my contractor told me - recently had some shingles fall off and the clear strip wasn’t removed when they were installed
@RL CL I have GAF shingles left over, and I'll double check. I don't remember seeing any writing on those clear plastic strips. I didn't see any of those strips on the shingles they used in the video either, which is why I asked. It looked like they removed them.
Just lay three rows of shingles on top of each other spaced as they would be on the roof, typically a five inch overlap. Then look under them and see where the asphalt dubs lineup with tabs. You will see the plastic strips have nothing to do with bonding them down. Those strips are just to keep the shingles from sticking together in the bundles from the manufacturer. My niehbor shingled a shed, it took him 3 days for a 10 x10 shed. I asked him what was causing his delay. He told me he had a hard time peeling the strips off each shingle. The next project he tackled he came over and asked for help.
@@kennethyoung3911 Thank you, that makes a lot of sense. I just didn't see those plastic strips on the shingles that were used in this video, so I was wondering if they should have been removed during my roof replacement. Thanks again!
says right on them do not remove.
I have shingles on my back !
The camera man needs to get closer. He be getting every car passing by
What exactly is he cutting at 9:45? What mark is he talking about ?
He’s cutting the shingle down to match the chalk line he created earlier (6 inches offset from the edge of the shingle below it)
Doesn’t show how to finish the ridge
Tommy always does a great job, but if that's my forever home, I'm going with a steel roof one and done
A steel roof on a shed?
@@andrewmccracken5948 yes, very common here in new England can withstand just about anything mother nature throws at it
Pitch Fark
Fahgettaboutit I’m walking here
No starter on rake!
"ruff"
The starter wasn't installed properly. Those keyways were practically in line
Why must you cut the shingles into pieces to lay them out? Why can't you just lay the shingle sheets as is to do the roof?
Don't you run starters up the sides to the peak as well
he put wade drip edge along the sides.
Do you have a video on putting in vinyl flooring.
the homeowner can't say roof right.
About 6 years ago I changed the Shingles in the house, every time it rains the sand that comes with the Shingles I get it in the rain gutter ...
Is that normal, or did they sell me a bad product?
Thanks ...
It is wear and tear, although if you had it replaced in really hot climates or summer in the northern states, they'll wear out some while you're installing them, in Minnesota we used to take lunch from about 1 to 4pm depending on weather so not to damaged it much in fall and winter wasn't that bad. But not many places allowed to put them in winter when it's below certain temperature, here was around 0° don't know anywhere else.
called granules.
good job but that shack was not worth it
"...but we're pretty close to the ground..."
OSHA: Any work performed over 48" requires fall protection.
I know of someone who tried to save a few bucks by cleaning their own gutters, fell off a 6' stepladder and ended up landing at an angle that paralyzed them from the neck down.
Never nail a starter course in the middle of the shingle. There is going to be a seam and/or cutout lining up right over it. Always 6" from the edge and in 12" increments after that. That way, you'll never have any underlying nail under a seam or cutout.
Look at your roof's layout before removing the existing shingles. If they are 3 tabs, you'll be able to already see whether or not you need to offset the first row & course at the rake. 90% of the time, you won't. If they are architectural shingles, just measure the eave and divide by 3'. That'll tell you how much you'll have to play with at each end. If you're installing architectural shingles, it won't matter anyway because you can always tailor the last rake pieces as needed.
Also, always better to run starters up the rake, run them long and cut them off every 5 courses using another shingle as a guide with your hook knife canted towards you to leave a beautifully straight edge.
Cutting hips (ridge caps): Flip your bundle backside up, cut from the cutout side down in a triangle away from the cutouts about an inch wide creating a taper and keep cutting down, down, down through the bundle tossing the completed hip to the side. You'll have nice straight clean alignment of the hips that won't show (especially on hipped sections).
My old man use to say, it takes the same amount of effort to install a shingle right that it does to install it wrong, and 3 times as much work to re-do improper work, so just do it right from the beginning. There are no shortcuts.
Too bad the "centering" measurements to adjust the pattern from side to side ARE NOT PRESENT...
Confused
I like Shannon's method on the House-Improvements channel. Faster and a lot less fussy.
Got that? Right.🤔
They never show the last ridge line tab install.
dont think there was any chalk in that chalk box jmo
Tom is the only guy on T.O.H. that isn't a hack.
🍺🥃🎯🍿🙂👍🏻
It's only a shed. I would have just replaced it with a rubber roof.
dude said ruuf
He’s from Boston- they ain’t normal in their speak spoke 😂
This Old Cliff Clavin Lookalike
What’s that mean? I hope the producers told him to say that because that would be the stupidest question
it means the roof is getting wet lol
If Tom is not in it... I do not watch
Asphalt shingling is very technical and should only be left to an American professional.
Just Americans hey 🤦🏼♂️😂
Gable end drip edge is installed incorrectly
He made that way more complicated that it had to be.
Here’s a tip, do a metal roof.
Especially on a shed, that a good idea.
5 days ago this is old as f