Good tip resetting the pan holes to a level plane for better gasket sealing with the ball peen hammer, alot of people don't think about that. Back in the day I installed a B&M shift kit in my C-4 (after I rebuilt the trans) simple install. change valve body separator plate, also remove acumalator spring and replace it with a supplied plug but made a world of difference on shift point engagement, even broke the tires on 2nd gear engagement. Not sure if a trans that already has any shift issuess if it might just finish it off😮.
Another question Terence. When you replaced your trans filter, did you use a gasket or just bolt it up there? Thanks and as always, love the vids. Keep em coming Also, cant remember if youve done a video on upper and lower control arms/ bushings replacement. Thanks man
No filter required as instructed in the many manuals I have. I haven't done the control arm or bushing replacement video yet, but I might just do that since I have covered nearly every aspect of the Mustang II. As always, thank you SOOOO much for watching.
In your opinion, would it make sense to remove the Y pipe on my ‘78 mustang 302 in order to get my big hands more room to get to the shift shaft seal and other seals on my C 4? It looks like there is very little room between the drivers side pipe which, as you know, is where the shifter and what not is. Thanks for your opinion Btw. Love love love your videos! Keep them coming.
I would absolutely remove it. It will be very difficult for you to remove that shift shaft with the pipe in the way especially with large hands. As you know there's NO room under these cars. lol. Thank you SOOO much for watching my content. I really appreciate it.
The ignition key to start it? if so, just remove the ignition (fairly easy) and replace it with another. Here is a link for the part. www.partsgeek.com/m8m7n3t-ford-mustang-ii-ignition-lock-cylinder.html?TTC&PartsGeek+Google+Base&For+1976-1978+Ford+Mustang+II+Ignition+Lock+Cylinder+Replacement+1977&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAk9itBhASEiwA1my_66Q7eiVi0ce_n8vpN0JXpk9t2tF8YOvV3Lk9xfVYn9ibepEG-TtRhRoCWu0QAvD_BwE
Good tip resetting the pan holes to a level plane for better gasket sealing with the ball peen hammer, alot of people don't think about that. Back in the day I installed a B&M shift kit in my C-4 (after I rebuilt the trans) simple install. change valve body separator plate, also remove acumalator spring and replace it with a supplied plug but made a world of difference on shift point engagement, even broke the tires on 2nd gear engagement. Not sure if a trans that already has any shift issuess if it might just finish it off😮.
It would probably finish it off! Thanks for sharing that info and watching my content. I really appreciate it.
Another question Terence. When you replaced your trans filter, did you use a gasket or just bolt it up there?
Thanks and as always, love the vids. Keep em coming
Also, cant remember if youve done a video on upper and lower control arms/ bushings replacement. Thanks man
No filter required as instructed in the many manuals I have. I haven't done the control arm or bushing replacement video yet, but I might just do that since I have covered nearly every aspect of the Mustang II. As always, thank you SOOOO much for watching.
In your opinion, would it make sense to remove the Y pipe on my ‘78 mustang 302 in order to get my big hands more room to get to the shift shaft seal and other seals on my C 4? It looks like there is very little room between the drivers side pipe which, as you know, is where the shifter and what not is. Thanks for your opinion
Btw. Love love love your videos! Keep them coming.
I would absolutely remove it. It will be very difficult for you to remove that shift shaft with the pipe in the way especially with large hands. As you know there's NO room under these cars. lol. Thank you SOOO much for watching my content. I really appreciate it.
Thanks Terence. You re the Best!
You're very welcome.
I have a 1977 ghia that ive been trying to fix but i cant find they key. Do you have any tips?
The ignition key to start it? if so, just remove the ignition (fairly easy) and replace it with another. Here is a link for the part.
www.partsgeek.com/m8m7n3t-ford-mustang-ii-ignition-lock-cylinder.html?TTC&PartsGeek+Google+Base&For+1976-1978+Ford+Mustang+II+Ignition+Lock+Cylinder+Replacement+1977&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAk9itBhASEiwA1my_66Q7eiVi0ce_n8vpN0JXpk9t2tF8YOvV3Lk9xfVYn9ibepEG-TtRhRoCWu0QAvD_BwE
@TerenceDIY Thanks sir. Yes that's what I'm talking about. Do I just take the steering column apart to remove or do I have to drill it out?
Remove the steering wheel and go from there. I have a steering wheel removal video on the channel.