Ive owned an N54 car for over 8years. Bought it completely stock. Slowly maintained and modded to 550whp on pump gas and meth. Cars only left me stranded once in 8yrs (drive belt snapped). All maintenance was performed preventatively and I do believe this is why Ive had really good luck with car/engine. Regardless every single car has cons. Do not expect to buy a 10yr old "performance" BMW and have no issues or unforeseen out-of-pocket expenses. If you want a reliable BMW get a non turbocharged version like a 128, 328, 528, etc. N54 a modern day 2jz equivlant, extremely strong and capable (reliability set aside). I'll remain a firm N54 believer even with it's issues.
@@schmeat2717 yeah, yeah, lol.... I’ve got 140k on my 09 335i and it’s left me stranded once and it was a coil that needed replaced.... other than brakes I just do regular oil changes and have changed spark plugs once, no problems... maintain your sh1t or you’ll be making Dumbass comments ....like you...
First like then watch! I’m a German living and working in northern italy, in one of those regions that have been again locked down. Watching your great content helps distracting from all the craziness out there.
When you do the turbos you can drop the subframe complete with suspension. Saves soo much time. I just pull calipers and drop it all out after unhooking the connections. Also makes it much easier if you are flat backing it.
Swapped my ‘08 335i for a ‘13 328i cabriolet a couple of years ago for fear of all these misc issues with the n54 coming up.. always regretted the loss in power and feel and I gotta say these videos are making me want to look back into the 335.. 😁
Yeah, you shouldn't let the trolls run you away from one of the best driving cars BMW ever made. They are plenty reliable if you are slightly knowledgeable. Those telling stories of being flatbedded so many times, are telling on themselves, NOT the cars...
I have had a 2008 335i since new with pretty much all the problems you mentioned plus two failed water pumps (the plastic housing around the impeller cracks and leaks). After I cleaned out the carbon deposits in the intake, the engine must have gained 30+ hp - the effect was that noticeable! In spite of all this, the N54 is a great engine and the car rides and handles really well. Not a single rattle after 12 years! And I would agree that although the maintenance is not super easy due to the packaging density of the components (it's tight everywhere) it is doable for an advanced DIYer.
I've owned my 335i n54 for 5 years already. The only thing that failed so far was the water pump. I did however replace the serpentine belt, deflection pulley, valve cover and oil filter housing gaskets. I have mhd software, China charepipe and blow off valve. Preventative maintenance is key
Are they reliable, no, but what needs replacement is predictable in a reliable fashion. i.e. if you buy an N54 equipped vehicle you'll know what you'll be spending and when. There are no real nasty surprises.
@@lucasjohnson3780 Then maybe you don't know what maintenance to do. As if that were true, you'd be the worst case scenario I've ever seen, and we have a car club of over 200, several of them N54's and none of them have had such problems. I take great car of mine, and it's always been reliable.
@@AquaStevae I work in powerplant maintenance. it’s simply not a reliable engine. Much happier with my S65 powered M3, THAT is a reliable engine, cheaper to run, and easier to work on
@@lucasjohnson3780 Sorry, but your working in powerplant maintenance doesn't show me anything at all. I"m a scientist, and go solely by empirical evidence. And the evidence is that this is one of the most reliable engines ever produced. If you bother to pay attention, 98% of what is reported defective or easily broken from N54 owners are the peripheral pieces around the engine, NOT the engine itself. So I will agree that BMW did a horrible job with the supporting parts, what help the engine run, but the engine itself is an excellent engine, and one of the strongest stock engines you can buy. Unless you have an idiot for an owner, these engines are almost bulletproof. And with over 200 cars in our CCA BMW club, I have a tremendous sample size to get accurate results from. MOST of the problems people have with N54's are operator error, and horrible maintenance habbits.
@@AquaStevae That's not empirical evidence and not scientific. That's just as anecdotal as my experience. A scientist should know that. I had a piggyback and filters, and I had 7 injectors fail on me (including index 12s), a couple coil packs, the transmission fail, the serpentine belt get eaten up, the radiator crack, water pump fail, and PO had the HPFP done twice. You're saying that the block is reliable (it is, if big boost is your thing), but the engine needs all of these auxiliary components to function, therefore the engine is NOT reliable. I will concede that the version in the 335is and 1M with all the updated components was relatively reliable. If you want to talk real empirical evidence, how about the SEVERAL class action suits against BMW NA for defective components in the N54? There was: HPFP, water pump (just received my letter in the mail about that one, if I didn't install myself, I'd be eligible for $1000), turbos, and injectors.
My dad has owned a 2010 335i since NEW! The only reason that car is not in a dump is because we think is the most elegant, pretty and amazing bmw ever made. Its much comfier than a m3, its a bullet when you floor it and it looks so sleek and elegant with clean lines and no ugly vents or body kits
@@MrBloodguns depends on state laws because they're emissions equipment, but yes. You can physically remove them and run straight pipes, just don't have run ins with the law.
So glad you chose to build this car, and glad i get to learn how to build one from your tutelage. Videos always set up right, information is straight forward and concise, keep it up brother.
Hello sir. Thanks for all the great videos! Is it possible to do a video where you give suggested fixes for the HPFP issue on the N54? The internet is a bit hazy on that topic.
I used to have a 1981 633csi with the M30B32 I-6 and that thing was dead solid reliable, never let me down or left me stranded even once. It did have some technology that was newish for the time, it was still simple enough that I could easily fix the few little things that went wrong.
Having owned two 335i n54 cars, I thought you were being sarcastic in your last video regarding "reliable." Haha! I was pretty lucky with repairs and I loved both cars. Awesome 👌
@@AquaStevae Fair point! Except previous owner had a pile of work done to the car (both cars). They set me up for success. Just don't leave your leaking cooler in then trunk after you visit the beach. That much water in the battery tray will cost ya about $1400. Don't ask me how I know!
By far my favorite RUclips car enthusiasts channel, just seems way more realistic to the average backyard mechanic/DIY'r even though I know you used to be a mercedes tech...regardless your channel has helped me out a lot maintaining my vehicles
My last BMW was a 06 M3 and will be seeking a 335 IS preferably Vert ! You are right about a lot Here ! I like DIY so this is the Best for the $$ ! Thx Looking forward to Mods ,so take it slow we need detail ! LOL
I know that BMWs can have problems, but some don't. I've had my 2003 M5 since 6/2006 and have put on some 80K miles and it has never let me down. I have had one major $ repair due to a coolant leak on the back of the engine, but other than that, just routine maintenance, most of which I do myself.
I’ve owned 07 335i for 13 years now. Here is my experience so far. Stock N54 with proper maintenance=reliable and fun Modified N54 with extra hp= headache begins but still fun to drive.
Im BEYOND jealous of the rwd. my awd is 2x as hard to work on with almost every single job.. just rebuilt the entire front end and have done almost every failure point. props to you for jumping into the n54 platform. defiantly some firm believers including myself that these cars will last 200k+ with the right care!
I recommend replacing the stock spark plugs/ignition coils with NGK Step 2 Colder (97506) spark plugs & "ELDOR" (12138657273) ignition coils. When I got my car, I replaced the stock parts with these. Nice OEM + upgrade.
Nice video, thanks! I own a 335is DCT running MHD stage 2+ around 400whp. The N54 engine itself is actually reliable if not bullet proof, but it's let down by all the systems around it: Electric water pump, high pressure fuel pump, coils, injectors, etc. Neither of them are catastrophically expensive to replace, but if you're unlucky, they will break with regular, short intervals grounding the car and driving you crazy.
Did this job the other day on a 3.2lt audi engine. If you do the chemical route, get some Subaru upper engine cleaner cans from the stealership, couple pick tools and a firm toothbrush.
If you’re still getting a boost leak try looking inside the charge pipe where it connects to the throttle body. There should be an o-ring inside the pipe. If it’s not there take the old big o-ring off the oil filter, it’s a direct fit. Plugs look good. Coils are old stock. They upgraded a long time ago. Do yourself a favor and just replace every vacuum line with new 3mm silicone except for the hard lines that go over the valve cover in the front, unless you find a crack. Also check the little o-ring that is in the hard tube for the brakes located to the right, next to the blow off valve. If the valve cover isn’t leaking I wouldn’t change it yet. Def get the upgraded RB Pcv and Pcv cover and get a catch can ASAP.
Just one thing I will point out... everything that is "easy" on the 335i - is not nearly as easy on the 4WD (Xi / X Drive) models... a lot less room. Be prepared to do things by feel.
@@fredfrederickson Indeed - I live in MN, and that's the main reason I bought an XI - at the time, it was the only AWD / Coupe / Manual - and what an amazing winter car.
I've always preferred to remove the cabin filter shelf when working on N54/N55-powered cars... it opens up so much space and makes for a much easier time.
I own a 2007 n54 making 440hp FBO running index 9's, oil change 0w40 every 10k KM and never had a problem with the engine. Obviously I didn't save money when i decided to buy a n54 like most of the people do and than talk shit!
Great stuff, Alex...love to see you work on your cars...you've got so much good information and you tell it like it is! Keep up the good work. Looking forward to seeing you finish on the "Beemer" and what sort of HP you get.
As a bmw mechanic I totally love it when people do their own work and bring me 1/2 the engine in a box. Especially with the "1/4 turn more" guys with all the aluminum and magnesium bolts.
Also, if your oil filter housing gasket leaks, it drips right onto the belt. The belt will swell and pop off. With all the hoses and pipes across the front of the engine there is a 90% chance it wraps around the crank pulley and pushes the front seal back into the engine then belt into the timing chain. I've found belt material under the valve cover and have seen it jump time and junk an engine.
Don't forget to mention the filters that are ahead of the Vanos valve solenoids that you can take out with a torch and clean those off or replace them for 10 bucks
Another great how to video dude 😊 One thing that all direct injection owners need to know is fitting a decent oil separator into the PCV system. Gotta remove the oil mist from the crankcase gasses that get drawn back into the inlet manifold. It's not so much carbon deposit on the valves and ports but engine oil mixed with blowby gasses that has basically been reduced exactly the same way you reduce a sauce when cooking but in the engines case it's been reduced so much that there's basically very little moisture left in the reduction and you're left with sludge and baked on hardened oil. Fitting an oil separator will drastically reduce the need to clean the inlet valves 😁
A little tech tip. Please remove that grease from between the rotor and the hub. If you plan on driving it hard you can warp the rotor due of the heat dessipation. The grease will keep the heat. BMW doesn't recommend putting any grease there.
I have had mine since 2007 new all service done by me even from new, replaced with larger turbo's 4 years ago and only minor problemd along the way, I have had more problems with the Fords and Chevy's in my 65 years, it is a rockets ship.
Love seeing your videos. Mfrs using direct injection really should have designed a fogging injector near the throttle body that occasionally shot a little fuel down there to help clear all that crap off the valves. Just an idea.
I worked at a European repair shop for almost a decade and have done spark plugs on hundreds of 3&535 BMWs, we always installed these triple electrode spark plugs on the 35 twin turbo cars specifically. tI Think the single electrode plugs were the ones that went on the non-turbo cars 3&5(25-28-30). Interesting that they used the single electrode plugs on this car, obviously once you fixed the boost leak and got full boost back it seems to run fine so I guess no harm no foul?
The engine oil leak is most likely the oil pan gasket. Engine is slanted and oil collects at the passenger side seam, especially between the engine transmission which can look like a rear main seal issue. Alex make sure you get some good diagnostic software such as INPA or ISTA unless you already have something comparable to get the modules read and diagnosed. Also, look over the cooling system components. Water pump/thermostat and the associated hoses. Electric water pumps are known to fail around 100k miles. You may have a hidden trouble code for reduced power from the water pump when it starts to go. There is a coolant hose that comes off the front of the engine block near the oil filter and goes down to the thermostat housing. The plastic flange on that hose is a very common failure with age and heat cycles. Common upgrade to get a metal flange in there.
DO A COWL DELETE, and add the Burger Motersports filters which are less than $60. I just realized that this is from just a few days ago. I HATE finding a brand new vid, as that usually means it will be forever before a follow up vid is put out. It's like finding a new tv show you want to binge watch, only to find out it only has one season so far...
Do not let these people bother ya! They are the ones posting pics of there broke car on flat beds being towed to shops! You handle business and still do a 9-5, while doing a solid RUclips channel! Haters gonna hate us viewers appreciate the content homie!
Walmart self clean off carbon buildup on your intake valves with crushed Walnut shells to sandblast the back of the valves to remove the carbon along with the vacuum attachment
Replace the oil filter plastic cap with the aluminum one so that the little plastic insert with o rings go on does not end up breaking off? It's fifty bucks or less just to get that part it's well worth it
great video Alex keep being the dude you are you were an inspiration to me I got my very own 1st old amg kompressor car a 2002 c32amg and now im going to be attending uti and going into the Mercedes benz program keep being the person you are a great inspiration
Alex, at your sign off "most importantly" have a nice day or always make sure compressor will function before using wallnut machine in demonstration..what good timing for compressor to say 'l'm done",don't forget to ring ingersall rand and get the sucker fixed..good video..sign of a good tech is to improvise when shit hits the fan ..100% good entertainment!!
When Toyota acquired the B58 and chassis from BMW for the A90 Supra, they made over 500 changes (majority on the long block) to ensure reliability. That is saying something.
@LegitStreetCars +1 for the great DIY info. You ought to at least consider a scroll or rotary screw compressor if you have to replace the old one. There is a chance the pressure switch has gone out & needs replacing, or the motor rewound.
My 08 535i with N54 engine was a nightmare had it for 3 years when they first came out and could not wait to trade it in. First week of owning it went to the shop it was eating oil more then gas ⛽️
Haha, my daily is a 2003, 220.000 km BMW Z4 3.0 and there is ALWAYS something wrong with it. It drives great, but reliable? Hahaha! But you know that, before buying an old BMW. Every German knows...
I'm always smitten with BMWs. But knowing that BMW successfully made the customer the R&D testing department is a large detractor. Great video , shame about the air compressor.
I know your being as thorough as possible removing intake. But what do you think of those aerosol kits that spray into Vacum line to intake for cleaning valves?
I bought mine used on ebay site unseen and drove it 600 miles home. Obviously a cheap used one needs repairs when you buy it but after fixing that stuff it's been awesome in the last 18 months. It's all about how you do it, don't buy the cheapest part you can find and diagnose things properly the first time not by replacing every other part first. It's obviously not a Toyota but it's in my experience on par with most domestic "premium" cars these days or in some cases far more reliable (for example compared to Chevy's 3.6l timing chain trash)
I have a Lexus GS with the 350, My neighbor said N54s are much more reliable than the Toyota 3.5L. He said the Lexus has problems with carbon on the valves and head gaskets. I'm thinking of dumping it now!
Oh yes. That like the other day was a silent hint! Too bad about the air compressor, but looking forward to the next video! Have you checked out the M539 channel? It’s awesome BMW content. 😊😊
N54 the best bang for the buck if you know how to work on them and know what you're doing, period! (for the performance that you get, driving experience and looks)
The N54 IS reliable! My mum has had her 2008 N54 powered 135i since 2012 and the most major thing to go was the water pump. Keep it maintained at BMW or a quality independent specialist and you won't have any issues.
I cannot tell you how much I love this channel Alex. You are doing everything right as far as I'm concerned. You do know that you will have to buy an Audi eventually right?
I had an old 2007 E90 320D M sport that I took to 175k miles and only sold it because it needed discs , pads and 4 tyres. Which would have cost more than the car was worth. Lovely cars and loads of fun to drive
Great video man. I love your confidence in your work. I own my 2004 e55 because of you. I was a bmw fan my whole life and have a e36 m3 since I was 18. I have an e60 528i as well. It needs a valve cover gasket, motor mounts , and fuel sending unit leaks. I don’t know what happened to bmw but their quality now a days is crap.
very excited about this series...have a 08 335i with no performance mods.. Already think i might have a boost issue too...do you provide the approx cost of the different mods you do - way to estimate what a reputable mechanic would charge for same? Thx!
The twin turbo version is more reliable than the old one I got the same one but twin turbo and all I changed on it was my vanos and about to change my brakes and daily maintenance but I got newer version 2011
I had the original index -01 with 120k miles. Car dynod 580whp/550wtq with them.I then upgraded to index -12 “just in case”. Felt no difference at all. Unless you see an issue with them, I’d Save your money and use it for something else.
Ive owned an N54 car for over 8years. Bought it completely stock. Slowly maintained and modded to 550whp on pump gas and meth. Cars only left me stranded once in 8yrs (drive belt snapped). All maintenance was performed preventatively and I do believe this is why Ive had really good luck with car/engine. Regardless every single car has cons. Do not expect to buy a 10yr old "performance" BMW and have no issues or unforeseen out-of-pocket expenses. If you want a reliable BMW get a non turbocharged version like a 128, 328, 528, etc. N54 a modern day 2jz equivlant, extremely strong and capable (reliability set aside). I'll remain a firm N54 believer even with it's issues.
100%. If you know what to expect and do your maintenance they won't let you down.
Yeah no lol
@@schmeat2717 yeah, yeah, lol.... I’ve got 140k on my 09 335i and it’s left me stranded once and it was a coil that needed replaced.... other than brakes I just do regular oil changes and have changed spark plugs once, no problems... maintain your sh1t or you’ll be making Dumbass comments ....like you...
@@robhughes8516 im intrigued to know how one coil left you stranded when you have 5 more.
@@eptdy maybe limp mode , im not gonna drive 200 miles in limp mode lol
First like then watch! I’m a German living and working in northern italy, in one of those regions that have been again locked down. Watching your great content helps distracting from all the craziness out there.
The ignition coil you pulled out had a date code of 5/27/19 so they've been replaced within the last year or so.
I just bought my own 335i and you just started a series. I’m probably just gonna follow along since I’m almost planning on 500ish hp
When you do the turbos you can drop the subframe complete with suspension. Saves soo much time. I just pull calipers and drop it all out after unhooking the connections. Also makes it much easier if you are flat backing it.
Wow good looking, plan on taking the turbos off soon to replace the waste gates so glad I seen this.
@@slitherdurant did u ever do it?
Swapped my ‘08 335i for a ‘13 328i cabriolet a couple of years ago for fear of all these misc issues with the n54 coming up.. always regretted the loss in power and feel and I gotta say these videos are making me want to look back into the 335.. 😁
Yeah, you shouldn't let the trolls run you away from one of the best driving cars BMW ever made. They are plenty reliable if you are slightly knowledgeable. Those telling stories of being flatbedded so many times, are telling on themselves, NOT the cars...
I have had a 2008 335i since new with pretty much all the problems you mentioned plus two failed water pumps (the plastic housing around the impeller cracks and leaks). After I cleaned out the carbon deposits in the intake, the engine must have gained 30+ hp - the effect was that noticeable! In spite of all this, the N54 is a great engine and the car rides and handles really well. Not a single rattle after 12 years! And I would agree that although the maintenance is not super easy due to the packaging density of the components (it's tight everywhere) it is doable for an advanced DIYer.
I've owned my 335i n54 for 5 years already. The only thing that failed so far was the water pump. I did however replace the serpentine belt, deflection pulley, valve cover and oil filter housing gaskets.
I have mhd software, China charepipe and blow off valve.
Preventative maintenance is key
Hows it still doing?
Are they reliable, no, but what needs replacement is predictable in a reliable fashion. i.e. if you buy an N54 equipped vehicle you'll know what you'll be spending and when. There are no real nasty surprises.
No, it’s really not. I had to have mine flatbedded 6 times in 3 years. I was 100% on top of maintenance.
@@lucasjohnson3780 Then maybe you don't know what maintenance to do. As if that were true, you'd be the worst case scenario I've ever seen, and we have a car club of over 200, several of them N54's and none of them have had such problems. I take great car of mine, and it's always been reliable.
@@AquaStevae I work in powerplant maintenance. it’s simply not a reliable engine. Much happier with my S65 powered M3, THAT is a reliable engine, cheaper to run, and easier to work on
@@lucasjohnson3780 Sorry, but your working in powerplant maintenance doesn't show me anything at all. I"m a scientist, and go solely by empirical evidence. And the evidence is that this is one of the most reliable engines ever produced. If you bother to pay attention, 98% of what is reported defective or easily broken from N54 owners are the peripheral pieces around the engine, NOT the engine itself. So I will agree that BMW did a horrible job with the supporting parts, what help the engine run, but the engine itself is an excellent engine, and one of the strongest stock engines you can buy. Unless you have an idiot for an owner, these engines are almost bulletproof. And with over 200 cars in our CCA BMW club, I have a tremendous sample size to get accurate results from. MOST of the problems people have with N54's are operator error, and horrible maintenance habbits.
@@AquaStevae That's not empirical evidence and not scientific. That's just as anecdotal as my experience. A scientist should know that.
I had a piggyback and filters, and I had 7 injectors fail on me (including index 12s), a couple coil packs, the transmission fail, the serpentine belt get eaten up, the radiator crack, water pump fail, and PO had the HPFP done twice. You're saying that the block is reliable (it is, if big boost is your thing), but the engine needs all of these auxiliary components to function, therefore the engine is NOT reliable. I will concede that the version in the 335is and 1M with all the updated components was relatively reliable.
If you want to talk real empirical evidence, how about the SEVERAL class action suits against BMW NA for defective components in the N54? There was: HPFP, water pump (just received my letter in the mail about that one, if I didn't install myself, I'd be eligible for $1000), turbos, and injectors.
I’ve always wanted a e90 335, I had a e90 328 and I loved it. Only issues I had was coils and pcv
My dad has owned a 2010 335i since NEW! The only reason that car is not in a dump is because we think is the most elegant, pretty and amazing bmw ever made. Its much comfier than a m3, its a bullet when you floor it and it looks so sleek and elegant with clean lines and no ugly vents or body kits
Needs an egr delete, that should keep the intake valves much cleaner.
You can do that????
@@MrBloodguns depends on state laws because they're emissions equipment, but yes. You can physically remove them and run straight pipes, just don't have run ins with the law.
Its not the egr that causesthe the most carbon build up, its the pcv that lets too much oil trough the the intake.
I thought these types of engines have egr control via exhaust valves, not an actual valve.
@@kuko9072 Probably because it is creating a vacuum in the crankcase to allow the engine to rev easier
Feel like I just attended a free seminar on intake valve cleaning. Thanks ! Always a joy to watch your videos.
agreed Pedro!!
So glad you chose to build this car, and glad i get to learn how to build one from your tutelage. Videos always set up right, information is straight forward and concise, keep it up brother.
USed honey for 2 years, saved me about $13 in total.
Hello sir. Thanks for all the great videos!
Is it possible to do a video where you give suggested fixes for the HPFP issue on the N54? The internet is a bit hazy on that topic.
I used to have a 1981 633csi with the M30B32 I-6 and that thing was dead solid reliable, never let me down or left me stranded even once.
It did have some technology that was newish for the time, it was still simple enough that I could easily fix the few little things that went wrong.
I love the trolling of people who were arguing about reliability without watching the full video 😂😂
I'm guessing you've never owned one of these loads.
Ya I just copth that right now that was brilliant I love when RUclipsrs hit back at the trolls by going along with it
@Bob Saget He said in the last part of the first vid that he doesnt mean reliable as a toyota...
I mean... It's in quotes and all.
P
⅘1
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Great vid! Love seeing you do these projects gets me looking for a project car!!!
Having owned two 335i n54 cars, I thought you were being sarcastic in your last video regarding "reliable." Haha! I was pretty lucky with repairs and I loved both cars. Awesome 👌
You can call it lucky, or just say "reliable"... Lol.
@@AquaStevae Fair point! Except previous owner had a pile of work done to the car (both cars). They set me up for success. Just don't leave your leaking cooler in then trunk after you visit the beach. That much water in the battery tray will cost ya about $1400. Don't ask me how I know!
@@TimmyG2011 Lol. I'll make a note of it.
By far my favorite RUclips car enthusiasts channel, just seems way more realistic to the average backyard mechanic/DIY'r even though I know you used to be a mercedes tech...regardless your channel has helped me out a lot maintaining my vehicles
I've ran my E90 335 on over 450 hp for around 25k miles and had no issues at all.
My last BMW was a 06 M3 and will be seeking a 335 IS preferably Vert ! You are right about a lot Here ! I like DIY so this is the Best for the $$ ! Thx Looking forward to Mods ,so take it slow we need detail ! LOL
I know that BMWs can have problems, but some don't. I've had my 2003 M5 since 6/2006 and have put on some 80K miles and it has never let me down. I have had one major $ repair due to a coolant leak on the back of the engine, but other than that, just routine maintenance, most of which I do myself.
I already dropped a comment but I hope there's still the original sat video coming no pressure just a must for my day
Great job on those intakes.
I’m really glad I found your channel! You really enjoy working on cars and it shows .
Smooooke on the water...
I have been in a fully built 335i, it was crazy. Top mount turbo and all, made me wanna sell my e39.
Would you rather drive a 2000s AMG car or a 2000s M Car? Which model?
BMW M5 E39👌
AMG E55 all the way
I'd rather drive something Japanese.
BMW
AMG all the way
the reason i like this channel is because i LEARN stuff.thank you
I’ve owned 07 335i for 13 years now. Here is my experience so far.
Stock N54 with proper maintenance=reliable and fun
Modified N54 with extra hp= headache begins but still fun to drive.
Im BEYOND jealous of the rwd. my awd is 2x as hard to work on with almost every single job.. just rebuilt the entire front end and have done almost every failure point. props to you for jumping into the n54 platform. defiantly some firm believers including myself that these cars will last 200k+ with the right care!
I recommend replacing the stock spark plugs/ignition coils with NGK Step 2 Colder (97506) spark plugs & "ELDOR" (12138657273) ignition coils. When I got my car, I replaced the stock parts with these. Nice OEM + upgrade.
Nice video, thanks! I own a 335is DCT running MHD stage 2+ around 400whp. The N54 engine itself is actually reliable if not bullet proof, but it's let down by all the systems around it: Electric water pump, high pressure fuel pump, coils, injectors, etc. Neither of them are catastrophically expensive to replace, but if you're unlucky, they will break with regular, short intervals grounding the car and driving you crazy.
Did this job the other day on a 3.2lt audi engine. If you do the chemical route, get some Subaru upper engine cleaner cans from the stealership, couple pick tools and a firm toothbrush.
As a 335 n54 owner myself I’m looking forward to this one. Appreciate the balanced perspective so far
I noticed the plates for the CDI are now on the windowsill of the garage - did you get rid of that one?
If you’re still getting a boost leak try looking inside the charge pipe where it connects to the throttle body. There should be an o-ring inside the pipe. If it’s not there take the old big o-ring off the oil filter, it’s a direct fit. Plugs look good. Coils are old stock. They upgraded a long time ago. Do yourself a favor and just replace every vacuum line with new 3mm silicone except for the hard lines that go over the valve cover in the front, unless you find a crack. Also check the little o-ring that is in the hard tube for the brakes located to the right, next to the blow off valve. If the valve cover isn’t leaking I wouldn’t change it yet. Def get the upgraded RB Pcv and Pcv cover and get a catch can ASAP.
Just one thing I will point out... everything that is "easy" on the 335i - is not nearly as easy on the 4WD (Xi / X Drive) models... a lot less room. Be prepared to do things by feel.
right!
wish I wouldn’t of gotten x drive haha still love my N54 tho
Why would you get an old euro car if not to go sideways? 😂 X Drive is no go for that.
xdrive is a pain but combined with the n54 makes for a great year round daily in places like New England and other northern states.
@@fredfrederickson Indeed - I live in MN, and that's the main reason I bought an XI - at the time, it was the only AWD / Coupe / Manual - and what an amazing winter car.
I've always preferred to remove the cabin filter shelf when working on N54/N55-powered cars... it opens up so much space and makes for a much easier time.
Mind blown 🤯. The valve cleaning was great.
I own a 2007 n54 making 440hp FBO running index 9's, oil change 0w40 every 10k KM and never had a problem with the engine. Obviously I didn't save money when i decided to buy a n54 like most of the people do and than talk shit!
Great stuff, Alex...love to see you work on your cars...you've got so much good information and you tell it like it is! Keep up the good work. Looking forward to seeing you finish on the "Beemer" and what sort of HP you get.
As a bmw mechanic I totally love it when people do their own work and bring me 1/2 the engine in a box. Especially with the "1/4 turn more" guys with all the aluminum and magnesium bolts.
Also, if your oil filter housing gasket leaks, it drips right onto the belt. The belt will swell and pop off. With all the hoses and pipes across the front of the engine there is a 90% chance it wraps around the crank pulley and pushes the front seal back into the engine then belt into the timing chain. I've found belt material under the valve cover and have seen it jump time and junk an engine.
The n54 and the n57 diesel are phenomenal engines. I’ve a 325d n57 with 325hp and 700nm of torque and it’s the most reliable car I’ve owned!
Hey alex would you like to explain something about your secret amg wagon???
It will be restored in 1 or 2 videos coming in the next month or 2
Love the positive vibes man well done. Always nice to see one of your vids 😊
Don't forget to mention the filters that are ahead of the Vanos valve solenoids that you can take out with a torch and clean those off or replace them for 10 bucks
Another great how to video dude 😊
One thing that all direct injection owners need to know is fitting a decent oil separator into the PCV system. Gotta remove the oil mist from the crankcase gasses that get drawn back into the inlet manifold.
It's not so much carbon deposit on the valves and ports but engine oil mixed with blowby gasses that has basically been reduced exactly the same way you reduce a sauce when cooking but in the engines case it's been reduced so much that there's basically very little moisture left in the reduction and you're left with sludge and baked on hardened oil.
Fitting an oil separator will drastically reduce the need to clean the inlet valves 😁
Yes. Oil Catch Cans from Burger Motorsports. They work wonders.
A little tech tip. Please remove that grease from between the rotor and the hub. If you plan on driving it hard you can warp the rotor due of the heat dessipation. The grease will keep the heat. BMW doesn't recommend putting any grease there.
I have had mine since 2007 new all service done by me even from new, replaced with larger turbo's 4 years ago and only minor problemd along the way, I have had more problems with the Fords and Chevy's in my 65 years, it is a rockets ship.
I wanted to see that wallnut stuff and the results of it. Sounds crazy. You gotta show us that! 😄
Love seeing your videos.
Mfrs using direct injection really should have designed a fogging injector near the throttle body that occasionally shot a little fuel down there to help clear all that crap off the valves. Just an idea.
Btw, take the shroud off the base of the windshield, saves so much time and makes everything so much easier to get to.
I worked at a European repair shop for almost a decade and have done spark plugs on hundreds of 3&535 BMWs, we always installed these triple electrode spark plugs on the 35 twin turbo cars specifically. tI Think the single electrode plugs were the ones that went on the non-turbo cars 3&5(25-28-30). Interesting that they used the single electrode plugs on this car, obviously once you fixed the boost leak and got full boost back it seems to run fine so I guess no harm no foul?
The engine oil leak is most likely the oil pan gasket. Engine is slanted and oil collects at the passenger side seam, especially between the engine transmission which can look like a rear main seal issue.
Alex make sure you get some good diagnostic software such as INPA or ISTA unless you already have something comparable to get the modules read and diagnosed.
Also, look over the cooling system components. Water pump/thermostat and the associated hoses. Electric water pumps are known to fail around 100k miles. You may have a hidden trouble code for reduced power from the water pump when it starts to go.
There is a coolant hose that comes off the front of the engine block near the oil filter and goes down to the thermostat housing. The plastic flange on that hose is a very common failure with age and heat cycles. Common upgrade to get a metal flange in there.
I just found this guy, and I gotta say I really like his upfront personality.
I would love to buy the BMW when you are finished working your magic on it 💯
DO A COWL DELETE, and add the Burger Motersports filters which are less than $60. I just realized that this is from just a few days ago. I HATE finding a brand new vid, as that usually means it will be forever before a follow up vid is put out. It's like finding a new tv show you want to binge watch, only to find out it only has one season so far...
Do not let these people bother ya! They are the ones posting pics of there broke car on flat beds being towed to shops! You handle business and still do a 9-5, while doing a solid RUclips channel! Haters gonna hate us viewers appreciate the content homie!
I did a valve cover on one not too long ago, for a German car, it was ok...just a lot of disassembly for a quick cover swap.
funny guy. good show. make sure the Tial has the black spring installed. mine had the white one and had lots of issues.
Walmart self clean off carbon buildup on your intake valves with crushed Walnut shells to sandblast the back of the valves to remove the carbon along with the vacuum attachment
What a great video with a TON of DIY content! Great series, Alex!
Great video Alex looking at an 335i wagon so this will be lots of help
Replace the oil filter plastic cap with the aluminum one so that the little plastic insert with o rings go on does not end up breaking off? It's fifty bucks or less just to get that part it's well worth it
great video Alex keep being the dude you are you were an inspiration to me I got my very own 1st old amg kompressor car a 2002 c32amg and now im going to be attending uti and going into the Mercedes benz program keep being the person you are a great inspiration
Alex, at your sign off "most importantly" have a nice day or always make sure compressor will function before using wallnut machine in demonstration..what good timing for compressor to say 'l'm done",don't forget to ring ingersall rand and get the sucker fixed..good video..sign of a good tech is to improvise when shit hits the fan ..100% good entertainment!!
Appreciate the carbon cleaning demo!
1:30 I could see a huge oil leak in middle of the screen, it was clearly visible :D
Yes, I would not be happy if my Mercedes looked like that.
Please do a DIY for the Valve cover on this vehicle🙏🙏 Enjoying the BMW content btw
When Toyota acquired the B58 and chassis from BMW for the A90 Supra, they made over 500 changes (majority on the long block) to ensure reliability. That is saying something.
Can’t wait for the future content 💪🏼, your the best at what you do brother !
@LegitStreetCars +1 for the great DIY info.
You ought to at least consider a scroll or rotary screw compressor if you have to replace the old one. There is a chance the pressure switch has gone out & needs replacing, or the motor rewound.
I'm loving this series Alex
Thanx again Alex... enjoyed it, looking forward to the next sequel! J
Do the race! Thanks for the content Alex
My 08 535i with N54 engine was a nightmare had it for 3 years when they first came out and could not wait to trade it in. First week of owning it went to the shop it was eating oil more then gas ⛽️
Love the back to basics service content.
Haha, my daily is a 2003, 220.000 km BMW Z4 3.0 and there is ALWAYS something wrong with it. It drives great, but reliable? Hahaha! But you know that, before buying an old BMW. Every German knows...
I'm always smitten with BMWs. But knowing that BMW successfully made the customer the R&D testing department is a large detractor.
Great video , shame about the air compressor.
I know your being as thorough as possible removing intake. But what do you think of those aerosol kits that spray into Vacum line to intake for cleaning valves?
Yes please race them! Would be a great match up
The word "reliable" and "BMW" in the same title?!?!?!? WHAT THE HECKKKK I had to watch the video
I bought mine used on ebay site unseen and drove it 600 miles home. Obviously a cheap used one needs repairs when you buy it but after fixing that stuff it's been awesome in the last 18 months. It's all about how you do it, don't buy the cheapest part you can find and diagnose things properly the first time not by replacing every other part first. It's obviously not a Toyota but it's in my experience on par with most domestic "premium" cars these days or in some cases far more reliable (for example compared to Chevy's 3.6l timing chain trash)
replace "reliable" with "reliable compared to other BMW models" and you are good! 👍
I have a Lexus GS with the 350, My neighbor said N54s are much more reliable than the Toyota 3.5L. He said the Lexus has problems with carbon on the valves and head gaskets. I'm thinking of dumping it now!
@@alb12345672 Is this sarcasm? Cause I can't tell anymore lmao
Lolzzz
Oh yes. That like the other day was a silent hint! Too bad about the air compressor, but looking forward to the next video! Have you checked out the M539 channel? It’s awesome BMW content. 😊😊
N54 the best bang for the buck if you know how to work on them and know what you're doing, period! (for the performance that you get, driving experience and looks)
The N54 IS reliable! My mum has had her 2008 N54 powered 135i since 2012 and the most major thing to go was the water pump. Keep it maintained at BMW or a quality independent specialist and you won't have any issues.
My 08 335xi e92 same color just hit 160k miles. Rear main done about 3k miles ago
I cannot tell you how much I love this channel Alex. You are doing everything right as far as I'm concerned. You do know that you will have to buy an Audi eventually right?
Thanks Jerome. That seriously means a lot. Yes I definitely plan on an Audi on the channel
Eldor are the revised coils, the NGK looks like a step or two colder spark
Great vid…Super informative & interesting…Like Hoovie (but with mechanical ability)…keep up the good work.
I had an old 2007 E90 320D M sport that I took to 175k miles and only sold it because it needed discs , pads and 4 tyres. Which would have cost more than the car was worth. Lovely cars and loads of fun to drive
Great video man. I love your confidence in your work. I own my 2004 e55 because of you. I was a bmw fan my whole life and have a e36 m3 since I was 18. I have an e60 528i as well. It needs a valve cover gasket, motor mounts , and fuel sending unit leaks. I don’t know what happened to bmw but their quality now a days is crap.
very excited about this series...have a 08 335i with no performance mods.. Already think i might have a boost issue too...do you provide the approx cost of the different mods you do - way to estimate what a reputable mechanic would charge for same? Thx!
Man, removing that cabin air filter housing and lower support makes pulling that intake soooooooo much easier
If you replace the spark plugs, make sure to order the same 1 step colder plugs that are currently installed
What is the “sucker” used at 12:43? I would like to purchase one for cleaning my N54 intake valves. Great video, thanks!
Loving the step by step!!!
Nice video!
The twin turbo version is more reliable than the old one I got the same one but twin turbo and all I changed on it was my vanos and about to change my brakes and daily maintenance but I got newer version 2011
Good luck...we are all counting on you.
I had the original index -01 with 120k miles. Car dynod 580whp/550wtq with them.I then upgraded to index -12 “just in case”. Felt no difference at all. Unless you see an issue with them, I’d Save your money and use it for something else.
Amazing content. I love it that you never go easy with choosing a car but you also never give up on it.