Oh how much cylinder wear on #6 compared to #1? Thinking of doing Fleece bypass on my 98.5. When I tore the engine down from my 96 at 494,000mi cyl 6 had dramatically more wear than #1. #5 had a lot of wear too, most hone marks gone. 1-3 looked good. This engine had an easy life, power not cranked up and EGTs kept under 1100. I think 24V engines have improved cooling. When I had head off my 98.5 at 202,000 there was no difference in wear between cylinders 1 amd 6, all looked great. But I think all engines that are turned up, can benefit from the Fleece bypass keep the back cylinder temperatures more uniform.
I will cover that in my next engine video! Although whenever i looked at it last, i didn’t notice any wear differences between #6 and the rest. I’ve had this engine turned up for about 20k miles, a hard 20k lol. I agree, i think the bypass is good insurance to keep #6 happy. I’ve seen upwards of 15-1600 egts while partying!
@@VossGarage lol that’s getting warm! You might consider a cam upgrade. I did a Colt Big Stick 3 (which is not radical by any means, does not require valve reliefs). It didn’t add a ton of power, but it helped mileage by close to one MPG, cooled EGT maybe 50-100F, but the biggest unexpected result was notoceably smoother, quieter engine. Need to put a video together of that, too.
I’d definitely have it pressure checked. But stick a straight edge on the head and see how the flatness looks, may not need to be decked. Good luck bro!
Suggestion on detorquing your head, go in reverse torque order, and in 2-3 steps…just crack them all loose in order, then go around a couple times in order to relieve all tension. That will help keep your head true and less likely to warp. Your valve(s) may have valve guide wear, that’ll cause seals to pop. Check that before reinstalling it.
I really appreciate your suggestions man! I was anticipating having to replace this head so I didn’t follow the detorque procedure, although I regret not doing that now. You were 100% correct on that valve guide, it was way out of tolerance! They are putting just one new guide in my problematic valve, and resurfacing the head.
@ you bet! Really like your truck and have been enjoying the content, doing a great job. While you’re in there you might consider the Hamilton valve bridges. Yeah, another thing to spend $ on, but the theory is the stock ones tend to flex and possibly pushes on the valve stems laterally, contributing to wear, not sure if that’s true. But I upgraded mine when I put my 103 lb springs in from Colt Cams. I need to get off my duff and put together a video since I shot footage of that project.
Definitely get the head decked and o ring if it wasn’t which I couldn’t tell and some arp625s I know they’re expensive but they’re a solid way of crushing the orings due to their high tensile strength
I had the machine shop pressure test the head and deck it! It is not o ringed, and I decided not to o ring it. I’ll also be sticking with arp2000s again since it’s just a single turbo. Thanks for all the tips though man!! I’m definitely rebuilding the vacuum pump, it’s long overdue.
You need to get top hat valve seals, with enough boost pressure in the cylinder it will blow off the crimped on stock valve seals, with that big turbo I’m sure that’s whats happening
I’d say you’re probably right. I didn’t want to invest much into this motor since the goal is to put a 6.7 in it one day. That’s why i didn’t do the top hat seals, because it requires machine work. Hopefully these seals will hold on long enough!
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Oh how much cylinder wear on #6 compared to #1? Thinking of doing Fleece bypass on my 98.5. When I tore the engine down from my 96 at 494,000mi cyl 6 had dramatically more wear than #1. #5 had a lot of wear too, most hone marks gone. 1-3 looked good. This engine had an easy life, power not cranked up and EGTs kept under 1100. I think 24V engines have improved cooling. When I had head off my 98.5 at 202,000 there was no difference in wear between cylinders 1 amd 6, all looked great. But I think all engines that are turned up, can benefit from the Fleece bypass keep the back cylinder temperatures more uniform.
I will cover that in my next engine video! Although whenever i looked at it last, i didn’t notice any wear differences between #6 and the rest. I’ve had this engine turned up for about 20k miles, a hard 20k lol. I agree, i think the bypass is good insurance to keep #6 happy. I’ve seen upwards of 15-1600 egts while partying!
@@VossGarage lol that’s getting warm! You might consider a cam upgrade. I did a Colt Big Stick 3 (which is not radical by any means, does not require valve reliefs). It didn’t add a ton of power, but it helped mileage by close to one MPG, cooled EGT maybe 50-100F, but the biggest unexpected result was notoceably smoother, quieter engine. Need to put a video together of that, too.
I’d definitely have it pressure checked. But stick a straight edge on the head and see how the flatness looks, may not need to be decked. Good luck bro!
I had it pressure tested and decked at my local machine shop. I was not expecting this head to be reusable!!
Suggestion on detorquing your head, go in reverse torque order, and in 2-3 steps…just crack them all loose in order, then go around a couple times in order to relieve all tension. That will help keep your head true and less likely to warp.
Your valve(s) may have valve guide wear, that’ll cause seals to pop. Check that before reinstalling it.
I really appreciate your suggestions man! I was anticipating having to replace this head so I didn’t follow the detorque procedure, although I regret not doing that now. You were 100% correct on that valve guide, it was way out of tolerance! They are putting just one new guide in my problematic valve, and resurfacing the head.
@ you bet! Really like your truck and have been enjoying the content, doing a great job. While you’re in there you might consider the Hamilton valve bridges. Yeah, another thing to spend $ on, but the theory is the stock ones tend to flex and possibly pushes on the valve stems laterally, contributing to wear, not sure if that’s true. But I upgraded mine when I put my 103 lb springs in from Colt Cams. I need to get off my duff and put together a video since I shot footage of that project.
Would love to have a garage space like that to work on my cars👏
Yeah it’s nice! I’m grateful that I can use it, it’s my parent’s shop. My garage doesn’t have heat and it’s too small to work on the 2nd gen in
Definitely get the head decked and o ring if it wasn’t which I couldn’t tell and some arp625s I know they’re expensive but they’re a solid way of crushing the orings due to their high tensile strength
Also rebuild the vacuum pump while you’re there, they love to leak. I always replace the o rings every time I have one out
I had the machine shop pressure test the head and deck it! It is not o ringed, and I decided not to o ring it. I’ll also be sticking with arp2000s again since it’s just a single turbo. Thanks for all the tips though man!! I’m definitely rebuilding the vacuum pump, it’s long overdue.
You need to acquire a breaker bark ASAP.
Yeah I do 🤣
You need to get top hat valve seals, with enough boost pressure in the cylinder it will blow off the crimped on stock valve seals, with that big turbo I’m sure that’s whats happening
I’d say you’re probably right. I didn’t want to invest much into this motor since the goal is to put a 6.7 in it one day. That’s why i didn’t do the top hat seals, because it requires machine work. Hopefully these seals will hold on long enough!
use a carbide scraper from the parts store to clean the deck surface. lisle makes them. i would definitely get the head checked and surfaced.
Will do man! Yep I had my local machine shop pressure test and deck the head. Thankfully it was still good! Thanks for the tips!!
How did you get it to hit rev limiter the way it does
It has a quadzilla with custom tunes by TJ Frey (1badvp44). Not sure what gives it the limiter so I would talk to him!
@@VossGaragethank you brotha
did you really took out the cilynder head just to clean it???!!!!!
No the head gasket was leaking!
@VossGarage ohh
I thought cummins was a reliable engine whys it being tore apart like a 350 chevy 😂
It’s been very reliable for me! I’ve been beating on it for years, so it was only a matter of time before i had to some maintenance on it.