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- Опубликовано: 11 окт 2024
- Most of us own at least one battery-operated power tool, including a charger. What if we could use their batteries also for our electronics projects? Let’s have a closer look!
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I am very honored, that my tiny e-Lab was mentioned! 🙏
It is a nice concept and it is worth mentioning.
I keep a favorites playlist of many topics. I’m very sparing in what I add. Maybe four or five a year. And I’m.a heavy RUclips user with a *lot* of diverse interests. It’s amazing how many of your videos end up on that list. Thank you so much for continuing to give me such joy!
You are welcome! So it seems that we share some interests ;-)
2:23 "Because it was the oldest PLA." 👍 I live in the dry desert of Utah and have learned that my "old" PLA doesn't print well because it dries out and becomes brittle. I've found that I can "rejuvenate" it by placing it is a pot of boiling water.
I've heard of PLA absorbing moisture and not printing well and becoming brittle. Is it true that you can overdry the filament?
@@thatrudager It may be rare but this is my experience. For the longest time I thought that my "old" filament had absorbed moisture and needed to be dried. So I tried that but it never helped. Then I learned that new filament is run through water when it is manufactured. I was curious so I placed some of my "old" filament in a boiling pot of water, removed it, and dried it with a paper towel. It printed perfectly. I've been doing this ever since with my "old" filament that doesn't print well anymore.
i've thrown brittle PLA. I thought it was because it absorbed moisture! But i didn't find PLA very sturdy it changes its forms at about 50-60 degrees and i've not been able to print using ABS successfully till date.
Interesting - it begs the question - What is the optimum long term storage humidity level for filament?
I believe Ryobi brand 18V batteries have undervoltage projection built into the battery. It's pretty uncommon in other brands though.
Thank you for the info. Others mentioned that Makita batteries are also protected. Mine are not, but Lidl replaced mine ;-)
Rob is right here. Ryobi batteries are expensive because they got their protection built-in, that's why the tools are cheaper, too.
They are protected and even showing the battery level, as seen in my project video "Bluetooth Amplifier Case".
Milwaukee has built in protection as well, they even have a temp sensor, and without it it's charger will not charge them.. Ask how I know 😏
For Makita (at least LXT) the protection comes from the tool . There is also a board inside but it does not disconnect - or + .. those go directly to accus
I love XT connectors. The fact they are hard to disconnect is a very good thing, they are reliable connections.
I agree. And they are cheaper than Andersen power poles
Yes! We want more! I just can't get enough of your awesome videos!
Thanks. Working on it!
I also agree
3:20 This is brilliant. I've used spade connectors for this in the past. My solution works but has much to be desired. I'm going to try this next time. Thank you for the many great ideas like this that I get from your videos. 👍
These spade connectors are a bit short and probably not easy to mount. Mine are much longer and inserted in the plastic.
Very fine solution to portable electronic devices. Thank you all re-inventors.
You are welcome!
A soldering iron on a 10-meter pole: What could _possibly_ go wrong? 🤣 Thanks for the Fusion360 tip for converting an STL. I hadn't hit that problem yet on my 3D printing adventure -- good to have a solution! 👍️
Everything went well and I got my sonde (and my 50 CHF) ;-)
I like the idea and convenience of a mobile variable power supply, seems like the ideal thing that a radio ham would build and need. Also, probably a great source of cells for other projects as you said.
Maybe I make once a project on my second channel to power a 13.6V rig with these batteries...
@@AndreasSpiess - I’ve bought one of those variable buck-boost things. I will be making something slightly similar. I’ve got the 12V rig power covered with Tracer batteries but I see an immediate need for a variable voltage thing to provide low voltage inputs for car diagnostics.
that small pointer hand cracks me up!!!
:-)
I totally agree with the 3D printer being one of the best tool ever owned. My Creality Ender5 has been one of the most used tool within my collection. The soldering station would be one of very few tools used more than the printer
I agree. Same thing here.
I absolutely love the X20 Accus. Cheap and powerful Cells up to 20A continuous Discharge. No overprotective BMS, only full Power!
True. If you need the amperes!
Loved your video! Please do more like this!
Thank you for your feedback!
A friend of mine and me created a universal attachment system for all major powertool manufacturers' batteries, that allows to stack various modules on top of it. So far we've made USB and notebook powerbanks, LED worklights, a bluetooth speaker kit and various lab power supplies based on chinese stepdown modules with LED voltmeter. It's so useful once you start with that system.. and 18V at a few Ah can get you quite far.
Cool! Did you publish your work for others to use?
@@AndreasSpiess It's going up on Gitlab when I'm done sorting the files and putting some basic descriptions etc together, yes.
Wonderful video as always. Todays subject got me thinking about setting up some old bosh drill batteries as a portable power source. Thank you.
If they are Li-Ion it is probably worth the effort. My old power tools use NiCd with a very limited capacity...
@@AndreasSpiess yes Bosch 18v Li-Lon battery, thinking about a buck converter to give me stable usb charging. Thank you so much for the inspiration.
Hi Andreas. I've really been struggling to understand circuits for under/over protection voltage for batteries and through the link you mentioned for the undervoltage protection design and the comments on that, I am starting to get there as there as some good explanations of parts of the circuit there. I know you have done a video on the subject of voltage supervisors and the circuit in this link helped me understand the concepts a bit better after your video. Thanks, as always.
You are welcome. Here it is more on where they place the circuit. In the tool or in the battery? My tool has it in the tool, which is not the best solution in my mind. Maybe it will change in the future...
@@AndreasSpiess Yes, I agree it is a bit naughty that the under voltage is not in the battery. However, it gives me a chance to use them as they are. Up until now I have stuck to Lifepo4 following an earlier one of your videos comparing battery types. So gives me a chance to use something else. Am already looking at using these for powering some 12v devices (low current) around the house for when we get power cuts, once I have built and tested the undervoltage protection (which seems to need to switch off when it gets down to 15.3v).
8:30 You said "Ask my wife who would be the better husband." You made me laugh too hard! I had to explain my outburst. 😁
I am glad I made you laugh!
Would like to see a project worthy of collaboration with great Scott and you.
So far both of us has done collaborations because the effort is very big (at least that is what I think, I did not ask him)
I edit stl files all the time, saves a lot of time for me. Thank you for another good video.
You are my hero! This must be very difficult.
Great video for creative makers. Having energy is always import, particularly in a pragmatic way that's ecconomical. So many excellent little tips all nicely wrapped in one video.
Glad you liked the video! Thanks for your feedback.
Andreas, my favorite laid-back RUclipsr after a British traveler ❤️
:-)
@@AndreasSpiess yes the laid-back British is The Tim Traveler
Awesome !!!! I didn't even know things like this were existing. For doing electronics on the place the idea of a portable lab is very interesting. it also makes a rather cheap power supply for people that don't need high voltage and high current.
You are right. Most of us only need currents below 5A. The soldering iron is probably one of the higher loads in my lab...
Very useful !! Also loving the Big Clive Hot Pink LOL
I did not know that Big Clive loves this color. But now I know ;-)
I wanted to know about this exact thingies today and this evening I have my answer. Thank you from Colorado.
It is probably already night at your place ;-) I have a lot of good memories if I hear Colorado. Silverton and the Engineer Pass with a 4x4 etc.
@@AndreasSpiess Ha, I use to live in Ouray! Glad you've been above tree line in the beautiful San Juan mountains of southwestern Colorado. Spectacular up there. Thanks for the quick reply.
That's Big Clive pink, great project though. These battery packs are going to be useful for powering all sorts. Manufacturers seem to be settling on 18V but a shame they can't standardize the connection.
My workshop is still 100% hand tools but need to invest in a cordless drill soon. Problem is deciding which manufacture to commit to.
Sellers hate standards. Purchasers love standards ;-)
I really needed this idea today. Thank you!
Cool. I am always glad if my videos are useful.
Ask my wife who would be the better husband, cracked me up 🤣🤣🤣
:-)
I have bought the same exact batteries for the exact same purpose before, for a universal battery solution for robot projects (which never really realized)
So you have now a reason to continue with your robot!
I dont comment much, but again, another video by Andreas that is of enormous value. Laughed at the "ask my wife who would make a better husband" . You've got it all. and thanks again.
Thank you for your comment. Feedback is always welcome!
Nice video!
You can also import an STL file into openSCAD and make your changes there.
Thanks for the tip! I did not like openSCAD. It is easier for me to draw with the mouse...
@@AndreasSpiess ...and I always found it difficult to get my 3D-ideas with the mouse into a flat screen and then back out. For me it is easier to think in 3D and work directly with the coordinates...
Habe vor einigen Tagen genau das gleiche thingiverse Teil für meine lidl Akkus gedruckt 😅einmal auch mit Spannungsregler und einmal als Laptop Zusatzakku. Habe genau die gleiche Erfahrung mit den lidl Akkus gemacht. Billig und gut
Genau. Für einen Laptop sind die ideal!
Great Andreas, many thanks. It was in my mind because I'm thinking to the supply of the far sensors in Home Assistant. Home assistant is another theme that I'm trying to to solve.
You maybe get better solutions to power sensors at 3.3 volts...
I don't have any idea what this video is about.... but Im liking it because of the hilarious hand pointer you are using! Love it.
Thanks for watching anyway!
Fantastic video, as always. Glad to follow a second channel!
Welcome aboard the second channel!
On nice! I bought a Pinecil soldering iron and I've been thinking about making an adaptor for my drill batteries. This is really good advice.
Glad I could help!
Great video once again. Sudden realisation I have not one but two of these batteries in the garage and I have a SQ001 soldering iron which is a clone of the TS,100 got to get printing! However there is a far simpler way of cutting the radiosondes cord and that is to tape a strap cutting safety knife to the top of your pole. Ive used it four times with success. Keep up the great work!
Glad to read that you were successful with a knife. I thought it will not be easy to position it and apply the needed force 10m high.
@@AndreasSpiess Just found out that TS100 firmware has undervoltage protection for lithium cells built in to its latest firmware
Nice video ! I guess my workshop comes closer to yours than to GreatScott.... not too clean and organized... and of course, we're always in for some action too !
Like all bikers we need a little action. But I have colleagues who clean their Harleys more than GreatScott his lab ;-)
Last weekend, I was doing some gardening and I thought, I heared a strange noise echoing thru the air... It sounded like "F.... YOU SCOTT!!!!", but very damp, like it has come straight over the Bodensee to Bavaria.
??
Fantastic walkthrough of your thoughts and experiences
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😀
Glad you enjoyed it!
Ha !
this time I was faster and did this already as a christmas project.
This dcdcs are also available as buck boost and you can also set the cut of voltage to protect the battery.Very handy.
Thanks from Bavaria
Good point about the cut-off voltage. Was not aware of that. Thanks.
This video was kind of an eye opener for me.
Glad it was helpful!
Parkside had the same idea ;) Check for "Parkside 20V Cordless Soldering Station". I have "Parkside Cordless Soldering Iron 4 V" and it works fine as well. Tools batteries are versatile. I want to use my for power HAM radio field operations.
You are right. In the meantime I also saw it in my Lidl store...
I like cheap leetle battories and support this channel
:-)
Lovely ideas - my project list gets longer and longer !
Very good. Then you can choose according your mood ;-)
I also like the videos of "great scott". Maybe there will be a cooperation video with this channel? He lives about 200km away from your location, maybe you can even reach him with some radio signals?
That would be awesome
Of course I asked him before I published the video. But so far none of us have done collaborations AFAIK. Too difficult and time-consuming for our busy channels :-(
Nice... a quick comment... you can keep pla longer if you keep in controlled humidity. I have pla working perfectly... kept since years. Or at least if you bake out a bit of moisture before using... old pla works like a charm.
I heard of that. For me it is not worthwhile. I experimented once with plastic bags where I removed the air. Now I try to use it faster (buy smaller batches).
ok, I need a versatile smartphone charger that uses those power tool batteries
Just do it ;-)
Pay VERY close attention to the circuit design if you’re working with such batteries. The Parkside ones DONT HAVE INTERNAL REGULATION. I recently found that out while doing similar projects and ran into undervoltage issues. The cells of the battery are literally directly connected to the output terminals. The actual protection of the battery is handled by the tool and not the battery. The battery bms checks the voltage and communicates with the tool over the second pin. The tool gives out a voltage on that pin and the battery bms can pull it low. This tells the circuit in the tool to shut off if the voltage gets too low. So if you use this battery for other things you have to incorporate this communication into your design to actually get protection.
Which is exactly to be expected - it's a battery pack not a PSU. Heck, half this video was about interfacing an actual PSU module to the pack.
Do you have more information about which pin and what voltages it expects to switch the power off?
@@AndreasSpiess it’s been a couple of weeks since I had time to work on this project but I think it’s the pin right next to the negative pin. Actually I think the powertools only have 3 pins so it should be easy to find the correct one. I started by measuring the voltages with a multimeter and it seems like there’s a correlation between the voltage on that pin and the state of charge of the battery. I didn’t have time to look for any digital communication there with my oscilloscope but there might be some as the new smart batteries somehow get told by the tool how much current is drawn (or it might be calculated I’m not sure about that at the moment).
BTW the tools won’t work with other voltage sources except if you place a resistor between the signal pin and ground. So I think the tool creates a voltage on that pin and looks if it’s pulled down or not and possibly how far it’s pulled down. But like I said I didn’t have time to do more testing in the last time. But I might be able to do further testing tomorrow. Maybe you can find out more with your equipment but that’s my current understanding of their bms function
amazing creativity! thanks for the links!
You are welcome!
Thanks for the video.
Dear Mr. Spiess, for the purpose of increasing chances for others to find your new channel, wouldn’t it be useful to put the link to the new channel also in the “favorite channels” section of the main channel (i.e. this one)? You already have several channels of other youtubers in that section listed, just add the link to your own new channel, too.
Good idea. I forgot it because I did not look at it for years.
FWIW, the pink 3d printed parts in the thumbnail first got me curious what this video was about 💟
Pink is good if you search attention, I think ;-)
Der schwebende Lötkolben ist natürlich eine gute Idee, wäre mir aber fast schon "over engineered". Ich glaube ich wäre schon mit einer Rasierklinge am Stil zufrieden ;-) Mal sehen was dir noch mit diesen Akkus einfällt. :-)
Mit einer Rasierklinge auf 10 Meter Höhe zu treffen ginge für mich schon unter dem Motto "Zirkuskunst" ;-) Ausserdem brauchst du viel Kraft um diesen zähen Faden zu zerschneiden. Schmelzen ist da wesentlich einfacher...
I guess a simple knife at the end of the stick would have been too boring :-) Impressing however, how much self-made and knowledge you got in this video
I started with a knife and scissors but at 10 high it would not be easy to position and apply the needed force for a cut. Heat works in a fraction of a second. Positioning was not difficult.
Finally, the long awaited (cheap) Li-ion battery pack video, thank you! I was hoping for something more ("we want more"): a load sharing / power path circuit (something like this: ruclips.net/video/T70mBHeIOZA/видео.html but for the whole power pack, not just a single cell), to be used as a mini UPS for RPis. Really disappointed to hear the BMS is in the power tools and not in the battery packs, I guess they did that on purpose.
I do not see the need of a power path in this setup. No solar involved. And if, I think you can use the same principle. Just select the right FET (Vgs). But I never tried.
@@AndreasSpiess I think FQP27P06 should be ok. I didn't mention "solar" (it was just in the other video), my intention was to use: mains --> original charger --> load sharing circuit --> battery *and* RPi (at the same time). I wonder if the charger can *safely* charge the battery pack *and* power the RPi (2-3 amps) *at the same time*, without the power drawn by the RPi interfering with the charging of the pack. I hope I managed to explain it more clearly now. It would be really nice to turn such a battery pack and its charger into a mini-UPS for the RPi.
@@dan-nutu This would be a very useful circuit, either solar or mains powered mini-UPS!!
I did the same with Einhell batteries. I used simple spade connectors.
Others also mentioned the spade connectors. I thought they are quite short for me.
the funny thing with lidl/aldi budget battery packs is, that they are equally 18v just as their more expensive premium brand counterparts.
but i guess some clever marketing dude thought that bigger is better, and slapped 20V (and 40V) stickers on them
Indeed, a good trick because it is not wrong (5x4.2=21V) and for most men, bigger is better ;-)
@@AndreasSpiess really depends on what number we pull out from the hat: 4.2V or 3.7V = which then results 21V or 18.5V respectively. also a neat thing with Lidl: their next generation batteries even have bluetooth - charge can be monitored with the app, or by other "maker" means. this is worth a quickie
Very practical ideas indeed, thank you. Yes a 3d printer can be a very useful tool for all kind of projects and nowadays with relatively affordable entry level models from Crealty, like the ender 3 pro under 200usd, open many possibilities, so glad I got one myself. I like the idea of the mobile power supply, will get me one of those power display modules, thanks for the tip.
You are welcome! These Crealty printers seem to be very popular...
Parkside X20V Battery Outlet Universal Adapter for Testing Charging and Powering other devices: ruclips.net/video/Gt7hvKPipuQ/видео.html
Also a cool design!
Second bullet point on what should we keep is important😄
:-)
I bought the Lidl soldering iron great basic iron that I use on site.
I also have tools from Lidl. For me as a casual user price/performance is good.
Nice use of power tool battery pack ! Yes I often 3dprint 1off projects with whatever material is loaded and regret the color later. Are these a good option for our portable projects ? You have smaller powerpacks in your excel sheet. They may meet a need for a readily available and well packaged 5000 mAh pack , 19V might be good for motors and relays but too high for controllers. Also can they be recharged by readily available solar chargers ?
Lidl sells two pack sizes with 5 or 10 batteries. So you have a choice if your project needs a lot of power. The power source for mobile projects always depends on the needs. Most of my MCO/sensor projects are better off with a single-cell solution. My Radios need 13.6 volts and more power. So this could be a possibility (with a buck converter).
I don't have a 3-D printer, but I use my 18 Volt drill battery to run my soldering pencil. It's got enough juice to build an entire modest-sized project. I also used double-sided PCB material to make tabs that stick into the battery's clips. Some red and some black adhesive heat-shrink tubing over the back-end of the tabs and the wires to connect to an epoxied USB-C+ connector, (also heat-shrunk) for the soldering pencil and it looks like it was done by someone competent.
You are competent if I see what you achieved!
The LIDL batteries have low voltage protection, but they don't have disconnect mosfets. One of the two inner pins is used to signal "power ok" from the battery to the power tool.
Other viewers also wrote that there is a signal about the voltage on one of the middle pins. But I would not call that "protection" because it does not do anything. But maybe you could add it to a FET to switch the power off...
If low price and longevity is youre primary concern. I suggest making you're own battery packs.
And honestly it's not very hard,.Theirs quite a videos out their but to summarise, cell quality makes a difference so for best performace buy new Sony or Panasonic cells.. in my personal experience I use a mix of makita and homemade batteries every day.the ones I build myself stay good for about 1.5- 2 years of hard use, which Is the same, if not more than the free official makita ones you get when buying tool packs... The initial cost is more than the Lidl but when you're batteries start losing their capacity you just replace the cells, keep the casing and power controller thus making their 2nd and 3rd life as cheap or cheaper than those lidl ones.
Also a good solution. I do not think I would be able to create my own battery pack for that price. The shipping of batteries has become cumbersome these days.
Heads-up: the full version of Fusion 360 is free for hobbyist use and comes with no limitations on functionality: only the cloud use is a little limited, but barely.
You are right.
Great video as always - Informative, factual AND entertaining. Your 3D printing section was very helpful. Brand new to the Prusa machine, I am hoping to produce small custom electronics parts (mounts, enclosures, adapters, etc.) as you do (so well). Was Fusion 360 a bit of a challenge? It intimidates me.
Fusion360 or any other such tool is confusing in the beginning. A lot of work in front of you. But rewarding!
The upcoming release of Solvespace has added stl import too. I haven't used that feature yet, but I imagine it works similarly: add or subtract volume.
Thank you for the information!
Ha, the application for a mobile solder iron remembered me back in time where I was proud on my refillable gas solder pen when I had to solder something far from the wall socket.
But now I enter my 8th year of 3dprinting experience and
can let me inspire from Scott's and your videos 👍
Anyway since F360 has f.... d the "free" license users by cutting export and cnc routing functions it's dead for me and I ve gone back to good ole freeCad where you can also import stl and transfer to bodies for editing.
PS what about corrosion of the copper conductors in outdoor use? Does it lead into issues?
Corrosion of the copper contacts outdoors. If the battery is removed and recharged frequently the contacts are to some extent self cleaning. For better protection a simple way is to simply tin them with solder.
@matneu27: I sold my CNC because I did not use it often after I got my 3D printer and cheap Chinese PCBs...
@matneu27 You were using fusion with a 5axis CNC were you? And you are complaining about a license fee. Well that is interesting. Because of course you'd know that Maker Fusion still supports 2 and 3 axis CAM. As for your claim about export, you can still export these formats *.3mf, *.f3d, *.f3z, *.fbx, *.iam, *.ipt, *.obj, *.skp, *.smt, *.step, *.stl, *.stp So I'm really not sure at all what your issue is. looks like you fell for the whining from the uninformed "my free lunch!!" brigade without doing any actual research. Typical.
3D-printing has in some ways revolutionized power tool game (and many other things) for us hobbyists. Almost every possible cordless power tool has a Chinese clone available and they "all" use Makita batteries. That's fantastic for those using Makita ecosystem, but 3D printing brings those same cheap tools for us who are using different tool ecosystems. And it's not just about converting from one brand to another, but also for adapting old tools to use new batteries.
Inspiring video. Cheers!
Indeed we Makers and our 3D-printers have many opportunities!
For small modifications to STL file, like adding a hole or cavity, I find TinkerCAD is the quickest and easiest to use. You're not getting the features of Fusion or OpenSCAD that's for sure, but you also don't have the complexity of that software to deal with (like how many faces fusion wants to create with an imported STL in the free version).
Thank you for the information!
If you don't have a 3d printer, but have lidl batteries, you can grab one USB charger adapter from lidl (when that is for sale...) , and modify that with other connectors.
Parkside PAA 20 (A1, B2, or some other suffix, since they always come up with new version :D
Thanks for the info. I did not know that they sell them.
Same ideea for Makita there is an adaptor that can go as cheap as 11usd and it also includes a usb port to charge your phone/etc and have low power disconect at 13v . 198634-2 is the code.. and there are other similar like that
Love the idea of a portable power supply. Espcially with all those power tool batteries lying idle most of the time. Did you use the undervoltage protection circuit, If so is there any issue with hysteresis?
I did not care about under voltage protection. These batteries are extremely powerful and I never deplete one with sensors and microcontrollers. But maybe it would be a good idea.
Anyway, I think, the newer ones have to have it built in. At least in Europe it is no more allowed to sell unprotected batteries.
For my floodlight i have also 3D printed the case and the contacts is brass strip of 0.8x6mm (from modelcraft store)
Brass strip is 30cm before i cut them.
A very good idea! That seems to be a perfect fit!
Thank you for that Fusion 360 tip! I have been editing STL files in Blender and it was very uncomfortable.
You are welcome!
Great video, thanks for the good ideas.
You are welcome!
I have used a standard crimp Spade connector to recharge a Laptop PC battery whose internal charging had ceased to work. But mine were simply shoved into the battery, nothing like your Rosey one.
I wish I had space for a 3D Printer. I wish I had some spare cash for a 3D Printer. 🙂
Indeed, these printers need both, space and money. But they are useful...
For those of us with too many DVMs and Scopes and not enough space for a 3d printer do you recommend any 'mail order' printing places (e.g. pcb makers, etc)?
I never used such services because I have my own printer :-(
You really remind me of my professor... :)
:-)
what a extremely usefull video today Andreas. Thanks.
Glad you liked it. I thought that these batteries are rarely used and can work more…
Sali Andreas. Lately, I’ve been feeling the need to buy a 3D printer as I believe it would make my projects easier in many cases. I’m not printing for aesthetics but for function and durability. Do you have any recommendations as to which type of printer to buy? I want something good enough and not too expensive to begin with… Merci Vilmals!
I have an (expensive) Prusa and do not know other models. I can only tell you that mine works without problems.
When you finally switch to a PrusaSlicer you can do all modifications you've made in Fusion directly in the slicer by using modificators 😉
Cool! Thanks for the tip.
I use spade terminals for connection to the battery pack instead of a metal sheet and also use an XH-M609 very cheap on Ali for battery protection. Hope it helps
I did not know these XH-M609 (because I not often work with 12 volts. What about the relay? Does it not consume a lot of current while on? Or is it bistable?
@@AndreasSpiess Hi Andreass I think the relay is monostable. I do not know how much current it consumes while on but the thing is that you can adjust the on and off power from 12v to 36V and adjust when the relay switches on and off wiith a voltage dfference. This might help ruclips.net/video/BNb6NJVhQpo/видео.html. So I think is a great cheap choice for external protection on battery packs that does not have the onboard protection :). Finally there is the XH-M604 that goes from 6V to 60V. Hope it helps.
But..
Great scott is the best...💯💯💯💯💯😁😁
Of course. We all know that!
The new Parkside Smart Battery has an under-voltage protection and you can get even 8Ah version... Which is huuuuge!
Just checked: It is much more expensive! And the 4Ah seems to be too high. The dimension suggests that it has 18650 batteries in series. The old ones were marked 2000mAh and I never saw a battery with 4000mAh. The biggest I saw was around 3500.
@@AndreasSpiess They are actually not using 18650 in the Performance ones but 20700.
Aha. Thanks! I already wondered because Lidl usually does not write false values on their products
I thought the pink print was a nod to Big Clive.
:-))
We used to see the Lidl batteries on discount at the end of the sale "brochure" . Now they seem to be in most brochures so not seen them on discount recently.
They are not always available in our store. Usually only when they sell tools.
Andreas, last summer a friend had all his work tools stolen. Since then been pondering the idea of a modified battery that would have a GPS tracking system, thoughts being getting an old battery past its life, gut it, add some cells for power and GPS tracking module.
Any thoughts, suggestions or inspiration to add to this plan?
I would look at AirTags. I use them on our bicycles for that reason.
Who would be the better husband? Mrs. Spiess would say the one using the pink filaments of course.
:-))
I've taken a number of older 12V drills I had from the past that use to run off of NiCad pak's and converted them the cheap 18v Li Ion paks you can get at discount tool stores. They all work and with a little more speed and power now. That being said, I only use an 18 V pak that comes with a wallwart type charger so the battery has all the "safety stuff" built in. These paks are generally the replacements to the economy ended drills that are out there. The last thing I want is a tool on fire in the trunk of the car.
Cool. You probably wwere lucky the did not burn with this 50% voltage increase...
I've done at least 4 old nicad drills like this with success. I suspect the speed controls can withstand at least 30 volts or so. The motor generally is going to be used intermittently but have not burned one yet. I had a whole box of retired drills due to bad batteries and expensive replacement paks. Nothing to loose, so I tried one and have been rewarded with a basket of resurrected tools :-)
Someone, or a company, should make these adapters for us who don't have a 3D printer. Been thinking about getting one but I know myself and will buy a crap one to realize that I will have to buy a more expensive one the week after. So what was the other project where you had to use pink for? :-)
Another viewer wrote that Lidl sells a USB adapter for these batteries which seems hackable...
Anyway, I am very happy with my Prusa. So far it never let me down. But not cheap...
@@AndreasSpiess aha , PAA 20 L1 B2 .... BUT it is out of stock. Maybe another winner. The charger and battery combo only costs 25 euro which is 5 euro more than the battery. PLG 20 C1. It probably is hackable to make it a nice connector to use the battery and with a flick of a switch or Mosfet to make it charge again.
just dont buy crap. problem solved !
I dont have view video, but this a great idea. For non professional user of batterie tools (just sometime to repair or made something), we have in stock batteries that never be used. Blue thumb and i'm going to view video later. Thanks
I hope you enjoyed the video!
@@AndreasSpiess I don't doubt it. All your videos are excellent.
I'd love to see a complete design of a car battery charger using one of these batteries, with overload protection for the car battery, current limiting to 2A or so, undervoltage protection for the battery pack. The reason is because the car battery gets slowly (ca 50mA) discharged by onboard electronics, I don't drive often enough to recharge using the alternator, and the parking lot is too far away from the house to use cables. I know, using another car battery, inverter and 230V battery charger would work, but there has got to be a more efficient and convenient way, right?
Just clip the power tool battery into a holder in the car and replace/recharge it when almost empty.
With your 50mA the big Lidl battery would only last for 3 days (40 Wh / 0.6Wh=67h) if my calculations are accurate... BTW: I have a calendar entry and drive my Harley to a place where I can charge the battery (twice per winter).
@@AndreasSpiess true. The thing is that lead acid batteries don't like deep discharges, so topping it up with an external battery that can handle more cycles would make it last longer. At the expense of the battery pack of course.
BTW I have to do some more measurements on the power consumption of the car when it is off, as I think that 50mA is an awful lot of idle current.
@@AndreasSpiess Harley - when the motorcycle is so big, it needs to be driven, not ridden! :)
the better way was connecting a LiFePo4 battery with bms in parellel with the car's batt. just put in a 21W bulb as current limit in there. so the charging current does not rise to high and damages the LiFe cells or BMS.
A small 10w 18v solar panel + dc-dc buck to 13.5v is a simpler solution and you do not need to worry about replacing the Li battery when is empty
Very nice video as usual. 73!
Thank you!
man how come after i watched great Scots video i thought it would be cool to use a drill battery for a portable lab supply and use one of them cheap modules i guess great minds think alike great video tho as always
Exactly ;-)
The new battery pack Parkside PAPS 204 A1 have a bluetooth module to set undervoltage protection, max current discharge and other stuff. Cell balancing and 2170 cells, so the 4ah is of the same size of the old 2ah.
Good to know. Thank you. So far I did not see it in our shop.
@@AndreasSpiess I bought it in Italy but also here the distribution is not on all the Lidl stores. I guess the raw material crisis is delaying the 2170 cells supply
Pay VERY close attention to the circuit design if you’re working with such batteries. The Parkside ones DONT HAVE INTERNAL REGULATION. I recently found that out while doing similar projects and ran into undervoltage issues. The cells of the battery are literally directly connected to the output terminals. The actual protection of the battery is handled by the tool and not the battery. The battery bms checks the voltage and communicates with the tool over the second pin. The tool gives out a voltage on that pin and the battery bms can pull it low. This tells the circuit in the tool to shut off if the voltage gets too low. So if you use this battery for other things you have to incorporate this communication into your design to actually get protection or take the circuit from an old original tool
@@maxwfk you are replying in the wrong thread. I spoke about the last battery model, the Bluetooth one, with undervoltwge control and max current output.
where you got your information from... i think the new batteries also have no voltage cut off internally
A cutter knife attached to the pole would'nt had the job done? well, would'nt be so funny at least :-D
yes, thinking the same thing - why not make up something like one of those "seat belt cutters" on a stick?
But then as you mentioned, there would not be any battery project video to put on youtube!
I started with this idea (also with scissors). But how would you position it exactly in 10m high (I do not see any details there). And the rope is very strong but melts in a fraction of a second. Also how to create pressure for the knife? Even on the floor, it needs a lot of force to cut it.
What's about Bosch batteries? Does the 18V Professional (not PROCore) have a undervoltage protection? I have bosh power tools, would be nice to use these batteries...
I do not own any Bosch tools, so I do not know.
oh one question. sometimes the battery packs of power tools have different + and - positions. and a couple of other pins. Can you make a video explaining those? i mean how to make use of them and what they are? Can tp4056 be used (or a few of them somehow) to charge the battery packs if the orginal charger is missing? thanks for everything :) Subbed to your second channel already :)
1. I only have Lidl batteries and I have no intention of adding other ones. Maybe you find other sources for your information.
2. The TP4056 is made for only one cell. You need a different BMS for battery packs like this one.
Many thanks for great content !
My pleasure!