TURBO 2 Stroke Engine Yamaha Blaster $500 Budget DRAG Atv First Start! (REVS HIGH!)
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- Today we take a dive back into the TURBO Blaster build and come across some weird issue that has yet to be resolved! we did get her running though, temporarily...
#yamaha #2stroke #turbo
FIRST Start of the $500 BUDGET Yamaha Drag Blaster Build (MAJOR PROBLEMS ENCOUNTERED!)
Where i buy ALOT of OEM & Aftermarket atv parts! - Rocky Mountain ATV - www.rockymount...
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What spark plug? Blow that carb out, clean the tank. Upgrade the reeds even if it's the Chinese carbon fiber ones, they are better than stock. You have to make another BLASTER Nitrous injected and put it against the turbo blaster. Yea man! Kick ass john
Ur full of shit nothing Chinese is better then stock
It's very cool to see you still do budget builds. My first quad was a blaster. I'm just waiting for the awesomeness to spool.
This may sound crazy but it has worked for me more than once. Take the entire bike back apart and put it back together, paying attention to every detail. You may have missed something simple.
Yes you only knife edge upper transfer ports and round the lowers and i only polish exhaust ports you want a little bit of roughness on intake ports for better fuel atomization
wish i could leave my mojave with you and just have you do a clean, tune up, and once over. im in PA, she's clean for 26 years old, and bone stock and not beat.
You got me with your pic 😅 but I watched it all. If you’re going to put a turbo on it I’d suggest doing either do a “suck through” setup or make sure you’re putting equal pressure into the fuel tank, to overcome the pressure from the turbo in the carb. 😊 love your attitude and vid! I’ll be sure to catch up on what I’ve missed. Good luck mate
My daughter's Yamaha blaster is fun, but my atv is a yamaha raptor 770cc with plus 3mm intake valves and plus 2mm exhaust valves plus many other things. It tops out in the 90s mph
When you put the turbo on it you should have an extra engine or a rebuild kit ready. With the extra air its going to want more fuel and if it doesnt have it its gonna lean out and blow up. Probably run it as rich as possible and slowly lean it out to where you want it.
The plug should tell if it was lean or not, if so and you get it running again try moving clip down on needle if it helps maybe go up on main jet .
I've never tried doing it but from what I've read the only way to effectively turbo a single cylinder engine is with an air "capacitor" between the engine and turbo, and according to them it will still only be efficient at steady full throttle. I have a kfx I was going to try it with, but I don't know if it being a 2 stroke would make a difference. Good luck, I hope it works for you.
Most of the times in my case its the woodruf key thats broken
I just got a blaster, and the guy did the same thing with the header flange to an fmf pipe haha
Maybe try a leak down test. Cool videos i also have a banshee and blaster love them. I agree with Your port guys, they are correct on the knife edging ,(bad idea) just round the divider and polish only that rounded area.
Awesome video ! never seen someone turbo a blaster before. i have a Yamaha blaster with a cg125 motor from a olddirtbike it rips for what it is and the gas mileage is pretty insane. wish i did the engine swap with a bigger cc now though
Love the series just subscribed
Ayto lube systems sometimes put 2stroke into inlet manifold and into the crank bearings . Took a auto lube motor and made it premix once and the mains went bye bye in five hours
Good video pull carb and clean reinstall and try again
Every cylinder I've ever ported or gotten professionally ported(LED and CT Racing) had knife edged transfers. And you don't want the transfers to be polished/smoothed. You want a rough finish to promote the atomization of the fuel. Polished exhaust, rough intake!
Turn the gas on let fuel get in the bowl then shut the gas off pull the choke and kick it until it starts
The float bowl my might just be flooding itself out
Mines does that when something may be stuck in the float pin and being you just got the bike crumbs could have been in the tank and brought it straight to the float pin causing it to get stuck open.
Letting it flow to much
Either re clean the carb or take a wrench and knock on the carb 🤙🏾 hopefully it works
Engine went lean from the fuel being shut off I could hear it on that last Rev. Check compression almost bet it’s low.
What's the compression on the engine? Did you do a leak down or pressure test? When you installed the stator, did you align the timing hash marks? when you ported the cylinder, did you chamfer the ports so it eases the rings back into the cylinder when they go over the ports? Especially that exhaust port. Your combustion chamber in the head looks horrible. That should be polished to a mirror finish. Every little dimple can be a detonation point. Did you try starting it with starting fluid (ether)?
Just got mine done and race rdy 😅 but no time to ride lately unfortunately 😕
Sounds like you named everything apart from a different plug? Had it many times also the woodruff key could be sheared
I was thinking you sheared the flywheel woodruff key but you had the flywheel off a few time I imagine when you sget apples the stator 🤔 🤷🏼♂️I’m curious to see what the issue is. Goons be rad af if you get the turbo on and working properly 🤙🏻
spark plug fouled?
Sweet build, I believe iñ you. You can make this work.
Ty Barry! Appreciate you brother 🤙
@@StupidFastJohn i ended up boring a polaris trailbazer 250 to a 392 athena 2 stroke and it ran up to 75 mph down the trail with a cracked intake boot
Compression, fuel and spark? ... check timing/flywheel.
Did the head gasket blow
No sir, compression is peak!
Do the blasters have the tors crap in the throttle like the banshees? Maybe its messing with it. Other thoughts would have been the flywheel magnets breaking or the keyway being broken, but if youve changed stators and flywheel already, then that shouldn't be it. Only other thing if fuel spark and compression are present, would be an intake or exhaust restriction. Mouse nest? Silencer packing? Id check for that tors crap first and bypass it.
Yeah they have tors they have same carb as the banshees tors eliminator kits are cheap I like running the nibbi 30mm on my blaster with vforce 4 reeds
I covered all of that, all of the cdi restrictions are eliminated. Tors, throttle switch etc. Gone. I think i know what it is and it isnt an easy fix 🤦♂️
@@StupidFastJohn yeah I haven’t got to watch your video yet I’m about to watch it now I hope you get it figured out man been watching your videos for a while now
@@StupidFastJohn that's just about all the bases covered then. Check carb again for the 100th time I'm sure. Lol but something has to be making it spark out of time. Ya don't think you did something crazy like snapped the crank on the flywheel side or something do ya?
Another thought, how smooth does it turn over without a spark plug in it? Maybe a crank bearing getting tight?
Look up kenoconal racing ther in Connecticut there blaster go roos
ring gap?
16:00 OEM gaskets are a must. Yamaha label
piston and head kaput!
tranfers up 1mm and exhaust 2 mm. cut head 3 mm
Im saving this data for round 2 ty 🤙
Check the reeds
Sheared that key?
The gas tank a bit close to the exhaust
Try starting fluid
Change the flywheel
Maybe you're just getting to much fuel and not enough air to combust?
Did you check your timing?
Yes a bunch of times. The same stator flywheel and coil from mine worked fine on the other from both machines 🤙
Man just yz250 swap it and trash that blaster motor
Too rich at idle fouling plug.Pilot is too big.
First
Well with the cheap china ignition coil no wonder it doesnt want to start. Who knows what other cheap junk is on there. If you can’t build it right then don’t.
Thats why i said at the end of the video i swapped all of the electrical out with oem from the blaster sitting behind this one... 🤦♂️