Shop trying charge me $650 for upper , lower and ball joints each side I wanna do it myself but ion have tools or help but this video is very helpful! Thanks 😊
I just subscribed thanks for the video the only advice I have is when I did this job is went to the junkyard and just took my time getting familiar with taking it apart you actually Coverd it by doing the links first all in all i dig the videos keep it up
@@BulletSolano thanks for the reply, what do you suggest to do? i only did upper and lower control arm replacement on one side, and now both sides are rised. what i saw is that the upper control arm is lowered, like 2 inches. that will be the problem? the new bushings are polyurethane and are fatter that the old ones, i think i tigth them to much.
Great video Bullet! I have a question before I actually do this on my 2000 accord. I hear some squeaking noise (like metal rubbing against metal) coming from the passenger side when I steer right.I’ve replaced tie rod, and upper control arm already but the noise still there. Could it be the lower control arm or something else?
Great video. My arms are original including on the car. ha! Do you notice a substantial difference after replacement? Can anyone offer advice? Replaced original front end stabilizer links with Moog K90340 & K90341on Oct 2018. By March 2019 I was hearing minor rattle. Sound progressed. As of July 2019 the links appear to be loose. Thought I could tighten them. Think again. Nuts already rusted. Used power blaster lube and heat from small hand held torch. Can't seem to get a grip on inside nut on piston to stop from spinning. Suppose to be a 14mm. Took to local shop and was told will have to torch them off and replace sway bar as holes have probably expanded with banging. Does that make sense? Was Moog the wrong choice? It seems to be all the rage. But the only thing raging is me that in less than 8 months I'm replacing the same component and adding a sway bar to the order. Should I go back to OEM? Any thoughts anyone? 98 honda accord sedan v6. Thx
Thanks, the end links and lower control arms are working great, and yes you should get another brand links or go OEM, and get a better mechanic because sounds like the just do the job to get money, not to help people, but that’s just an opinion
@@BulletSolano Thanks Bullet. I ended up getting a good deal on Moog replacements from a group called The Wrench Monkey. Only paid $30 Canadian. Great price. The design is slightly changed i.e the boot. I think my precious supplier sold me old style. Interesting enough the nuts on the new one only screw up until end of nut clearing end of piston if that makes sense in imagery. Won't budge any further. Would have to use vice and socket to screw on balance. Will call company to see if that's the design to act like a crush nut. Kinda strange. I went to dealer to purchase another part and the nuts they use for link have ridges on one side to act like a lock nut where as Moog are smooth. Btw, I have a v6 automatic. I think yours might be a 4? Have you had any transmission problems? Recently, mine has a slight delay intermittent from 1-2. When stopped and just shift between P to 1 the car has going from D3 to 2 and 1 to 2. Otherwise smooth shift when stopped. Any thoughts? Thx
RegisReplacement hey bro, mine is 4 cylinder, and yes 6 year ago I replaced my transmission, probably yours is going bad, but just clean the solenoids and you should be ok, and use Honda transmission fluid only
@@BulletSolano thx buddy. Checked the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid filters (3) and they were clean and the voltage seem to be okay as well. I have read if those filters are clogged that might interrupt flow of fluid and cause shifting issues. I tried changing filter for lock up control solenoid but after removing screws I can't get it off as something seems to be blocking or up against it and I can't pull it out completely. So I don’t know if that screen is clogged. Not sure if A/T clutch clean then can assume lock up would be clean. So I assume you mean shift solenoid B and C. My understanding is C controls the 1-2, 2-1 shifting. I will try cleaning both I assume with brake cleaner. You concur? Thx again for advice. May add some lubeguard red. Although its recommended not to use anything but Honda ATF this is an additive that is suppose to help.
+John Shotton on the v6 you have to disconnect everything from the lower control arm and then move the control arm to the left and to de right wile you pull the bolt to get some room to get it out
You da man bullet! 🇨🇦👍🏻 I laugh every time I hear you say......”Ok guys”.....😂 Very informative videos. Seems like a “roadmap” and a “to do” list combined, for repairs on my 01 Honda Prelude SE! Thank you sir! 👌🏻
I was just watching your video got to do some work on my car I got a 2001 accord ex coupe and I really didn’t want to do the work but watching you inspired me to get out there and also, I watched the front engine mounts, brakes Lower control arms and links. My speakers blew out so I ordered some harmonies speakers too they work good. what I want to know is is it possible to put Acura GSR seats in Front and passenger side
Hey man, I’m not sure on the gsr bracket seats, the only way is to ask on the forums or put the seat in place, but if not you can modified the bracket for the accord
So I seen in another video and read in a repair manual that a ball joint removal tool can be used to remove the bushings. Im going to try that since I'll be doing the ball joints as well. I'll be renting the tool.
Should I buy OEM or After Market Part, my friend. the OEM is 350 for both sides to compare AM only 70 dollars. Thank you. I really like your video. Nice picture and clear instruction, and your Honda is very clean make it more pleasure to watch. Good job; thanks again
+Vinh Duong thanks bro, depends in your budget, those control arms are good quality because the bushings feels solid but is you have the money for OEM go for it
Hey bullet this cause the vehicle to have a clunky sound everytime you pass a bump? Or when you are going at high speed cause to vibrate the steering wheel a little bit? Im asking because that is happening to me
@@BulletSolano Awesome, thank you for the info. I've been trying to get some wheels for mine but didn't want them to stick out too much, yours look perfect.
Bullet Solano I beg to differ cause the bolt that is close to the frame can’t come out because the transmission mount and bracket of the V6 lies in its path . It seems that to get the bolt out one would need to remove the mount and jack up the tranny along with the engine then again, for a car that age the 2 bolts are pretty rusty and might break off while removing it which would change the situation tremendously . I was hoping for a smoother solution like the 4 cylinder 😇.
Alain Larosiliere hey man thanks for the tip, I was checking the maintenance book this morning and It didn’t said nothing about it, I know the problem with that bolt because I did that job before for a client on a RAV4 but I haven’t work on a V6 model, and on the book didn’t said anything about that, for the V6 models.
Bullet Solano thanks for the reply man, I had a few Chilton Books which would definitely have enlightened me on the subject, alas I lost them while moving! Hopefully someone would know what we’re talking about and offer a suggestion. 🙏
Wait? What? You have to have an alignment done after a lower control arm replacement? Tie rods yes, but LCA? Fantastic, another alignment done on my car....bit doesn’t that sort of erase the $ you saved by doing it yourself? 👌🏻😳
Yes but is up to you, because is you replaced the LCA there is no guarantee that the parts are the same specs and if your off by millimeters that can get your alignment off, plus by you removing all the suspension components probably is gonna be off
Detroit Axle - Both (2) Front Lower Driver & Passenger Side Control Arm Assembly - 10-Year Warranty www.amazon.com/dp/B01AGZ19W6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_owltDbC5C84RQ
Nice video bro, I have a little question... With the lower Arms.... you must to replace the whole piece? or you can just replace the bushings? Thanks for the video bro!
Hi i know you show us how to replays can you please tell us why are you replays it it make a noise when you are driving how to know when need to replescement
If you check the bushing and they look bad, or missing pieces of rubber, is time to replace it, plus my car is 20 years old!! Every component with bushing should be replaced by now, just take this as a maintenance job
Maybe after you replace the lower control arm you should do alignment but I didn’t do it because I’ll wait like a month to replace the tie rod ends and the rear upper control arms then I did the alignment
But to be honest I don’t think you have to do it but if you get after market parts maybe there not the exact same size then the originals and then you have to do the alignment
Bullet Solano , thanks, cuz I have the same car, and buy new tires and then I alignment the car, but the mechanic told me that I have to chance the upper camber arm in both sides
No problem and if you change the upper control arm don’t get eBay ones get some from the auto parts store because the ones you get on eBay there not good
Stabilizer bar end link job is the hardest-easiest job on the driveway! There are always problems, and rust and lack of space, and then, all the other unforeseen issues...just did my whole car and one was “not that difficult”....the rest were pure evil......😂🇨🇦👍🏻 My advice: bring a useable cutting tool and heat, and be ready to use it! 🤟🏻
Bullet Solano I just hear/ feel a clunking noise under the driver side foot, I replaced my Sway bar bushings and endlinks but the clunking is still there
On two different vehicles I've had they pulled to one side while accelerating and pulled to the other side while braking/engine braking when the control arm bushings started to go
You have patience of a Saint to explain so thoroughly, thank you!
😂😂
@@BulletSolano Please, keep up the great work.
Thanks bro
Exactly v👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 great guy
Shop trying charge me $650 for upper , lower and ball joints each side I wanna do it myself but ion have tools or help but this video is very helpful! Thanks 😊
Very similar to my 1994 honda accord control arms. This video help me. Thank you.
Try doing that one one that is rusted bad... you have to sawsall the Bolt... its fun
ruclips.net/video/Yg_j_GSqjAk/видео.html
I don't even own an Accord, but you did a really good job putting this video together.
I really appreciate that
Great videos you've put up. Very detailed and really helpful. Thanks!
Thanks
I just subscribed thanks for the video the only advice I have is when I did this job is went to the junkyard and just took my time getting familiar with taking it apart you actually Coverd it by doing the links first all in all i dig the videos keep it up
Thanks
thanks this videos the most helpful I found on youtube im gunna be doing this in about a week when my parts arrive thanks for the insight
No problem
Thanks for the video. Appreciate it.
Do you do other repair videos for honda, or have a website because I Have a 99 accord ex v6 that im trying to repair in pieces...
Check the channel I have many videos in there but let me know if you need something specific that I can help you with
Da bullet man! !
Thanks for the video, i did each part of the video, but in my case, my car rised a little than before, like 2-3 inches. what do you thinks cause this?
Probably the fork is not seated all do way, check that
@@BulletSolano thanks for the reply, what do you suggest to do? i only did upper and lower control arm replacement on one side, and now both sides are rised. what i saw is that the upper control arm is lowered, like 2 inches. that will be the problem? the new bushings are polyurethane and are fatter that the old ones, i think i tigth them to much.
Great video Bullet!
I have a question before I actually do this on my 2000 accord.
I hear some squeaking noise (like metal rubbing against metal) coming from the passenger side when I steer right.I’ve replaced tie rod, and upper control arm already but the noise still there. Could it be the lower control arm or something else?
Thanks bro, probably is the C/V Axle
Great video. My arms are original including on the car. ha! Do you notice a substantial difference after replacement? Can anyone offer advice? Replaced original front end stabilizer links with Moog K90340 & K90341on Oct 2018. By March 2019 I was hearing minor rattle. Sound progressed. As of July 2019 the links appear to be loose. Thought I could tighten them. Think again. Nuts already rusted. Used power blaster lube and heat from small hand held torch. Can't seem to get a grip on inside nut on piston to stop from spinning. Suppose to be a 14mm. Took to local shop and was told will have to torch them off and replace sway bar as holes have probably expanded with banging. Does that make sense? Was Moog the wrong choice? It seems to be all the rage. But the only thing raging is me that in less than 8 months I'm replacing the same component and adding a sway bar to the order. Should I go back to OEM? Any thoughts anyone? 98 honda accord sedan v6. Thx
Thanks, the end links and lower control arms are working great, and yes you should get another brand links or go OEM, and get a better mechanic because sounds like the just do the job to get money, not to help people, but that’s just an opinion
@@BulletSolano Thanks Bullet. I ended up getting a good deal on Moog replacements from a group called The Wrench Monkey. Only paid $30 Canadian. Great price. The design is slightly changed i.e the boot. I think my precious supplier sold me old style. Interesting enough the nuts on the new one only screw up until end of nut clearing end of piston if that makes sense in imagery. Won't budge any further. Would have to use vice and socket to screw on balance. Will call company to see if that's the design to act like a crush nut. Kinda strange. I went to dealer to purchase another part and the nuts they use for link have ridges on one side to act like a lock nut where as Moog are smooth. Btw, I have a v6 automatic. I think yours might be a 4? Have you had any transmission problems? Recently, mine has a slight delay intermittent from 1-2. When stopped and just shift between P to 1 the car has going from D3 to 2 and 1 to 2. Otherwise smooth shift when stopped. Any thoughts? Thx
RegisReplacement hey bro, mine is 4 cylinder, and yes 6 year ago I replaced my transmission, probably yours is going bad, but just clean the solenoids and you should be ok, and use Honda transmission fluid only
@@BulletSolano thx buddy. Checked the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid filters (3) and they were clean and the voltage seem to be okay as well. I have read if those filters are clogged that might interrupt flow of fluid and cause shifting issues. I tried changing filter for lock up control solenoid but after removing screws I can't get it off as something seems to be blocking or up against it and I can't pull it out completely. So I don’t know if that screen is clogged. Not sure if A/T clutch clean then can assume lock up would be clean. So I assume you mean shift solenoid B and C. My understanding is C controls the 1-2, 2-1 shifting. I will try cleaning both I assume with brake cleaner. You concur? Thx again for advice. May add some lubeguard red. Although its recommended not to use anything but Honda ATF this is an additive that is suppose to help.
Yes the shift solenoids, but if after cleaning those still the same, probably your transmission is going bad!! I hope not
on the drivers side on a 2002 accord 3.0, there doesn't seem to be enough room to pull the bolt out from the frame. any tricks to get it out.
+John Shotton on the v6 you have to disconnect everything from the lower control arm and then move the control arm to the left and to de right wile you pull the bolt to get some room to get it out
Thank you, that worked!!!
+John Shotton great
You da man bullet! 🇨🇦👍🏻
I laugh every time I hear you say......”Ok guys”.....😂
Very informative videos. Seems like a “roadmap” and a “to do” list combined, for repairs on my 01 Honda Prelude SE! Thank you sir! 👌🏻
😂😂 thanks buddy
Channel is dope bro
Thanks bro
I was just watching your video got to do some work on my car I got a 2001 accord ex coupe and I really didn’t want to do the work but watching you inspired me to get out there and also, I watched the front engine mounts, brakes Lower control arms and links. My speakers blew out so I ordered some harmonies speakers too they work good. what I want to know is is it possible to put Acura GSR seats in Front and passenger side
@@BulletSolano if you have the time check me out instagram.com/reel/CNQOhhqjY_u/? and on RUclips channel the shepherds family vlog thanks in advance
Hey man, I’m not sure on the gsr bracket seats, the only way is to ask on the forums or put the seat in place, but if not you can modified the bracket for the accord
So I seen in another video and read in a repair manual that a ball joint removal tool can be used to remove the bushings. Im going to try that since I'll be doing the ball joints as well. I'll be renting the tool.
Nice
Should I buy OEM or After Market Part, my friend. the OEM is 350 for both sides to compare AM only 70 dollars. Thank you. I really like your video. Nice picture and clear instruction, and your Honda is very clean make it more pleasure to watch. Good job; thanks again
+Vinh Duong thanks bro, depends in your budget, those control arms are good quality because the bushings feels solid but is you have the money for OEM go for it
Hey bullet this cause the vehicle to have a clunky sound everytime you pass a bump? Or when you are going at high speed cause to vibrate the steering wheel a little bit? Im asking because that is happening to me
Hey bro, probably is your shocks
Check the lower ball joint too
Great video one I’m about todo the same job on my accord type r do you know if the torque specs are the same I would guess they are yea
Thanks, yes should be the same torque specs
Awesome many thanks good luck
Thanks
Great video 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks
Nice video,,, How is it, that the bottom of the car is so clean did you clean it before or what.
Jaja thanks but the car is not that clean it’s just that is rust free and not to many leaks 😂😂
I know.. i bought a used one that had been in canada and had to sawsall some of the bots out.. impossible .. But i got it done
What was your symptoms that caused you to replace the lower control arm. The ones that came off the car that you showed us didn't look damaged
20 year old suspension
@@BulletSolano ok. Preventive maintenance.
My car was lowered it takes more beating on the suspension components, but that was like 7 years ago, I don’t remember if the bushings were bad
Hey man question does this work for 1999 Acura cl 2.3? Is it the same way?
Yes
Love your videos!!
Thanks
Did you get alignment after this?
I didn’t but you should do it
New sub here. Great video, very thorough all the way. Hey quick question, what size tires and rims do you have on that Accord? They look nice
Thanks, rims 17”x7 tire is 215/45/17
@@BulletSolano Awesome, thank you for the info. I've been trying to get some wheels for mine but didn't want them to stick out too much, yours look perfect.
Can you tell me please how many miles on your accord when ,you did this video? Thanks
Around 210K
Nice Job!!!
Thanks
Any suggestions on an Accord 2000 V6 coupe driver side, it appears to be more complicated, thanks.
The prosees should be the same
Bullet Solano I beg to differ cause the bolt that is close to the frame can’t come out because the transmission mount and bracket of the V6 lies in its path . It seems that to get the bolt out one would need to remove the mount and jack up the tranny along with the engine then again, for a car that age the 2 bolts are pretty rusty and might break off while removing it which would change the situation tremendously . I was hoping for a smoother solution like the 4 cylinder 😇.
Alain Larosiliere hey man thanks for the tip, I was checking the maintenance book this morning and It didn’t said nothing about it, I know the problem with that bolt because I did that job before for a client on a RAV4 but I haven’t work on a V6 model, and on the book didn’t said anything about that, for the V6 models.
Bullet Solano thanks for the reply man, I had a few Chilton Books which would definitely have enlightened me on the subject, alas I lost them while moving! Hopefully someone would know what we’re talking about and offer a suggestion. 🙏
Alain Larosiliere no problem
how do you get the long lower fork bolt out. Does it turn, do you knock it out with a hammer or what? Please help me out
When you removed the nut put a jack on the bottom of the rotor to release pressure to removed the bolt
@@BulletSolano ok, thanks
No problem
Now do you have to have it aligned after this procedure? Thanks great info.
Thanks bro, yes you need an alignment after that
Wait? What? You have to have an alignment done after a lower control arm replacement? Tie rods yes, but LCA? Fantastic, another alignment done on my car....bit doesn’t that sort of erase the $ you saved by doing it yourself? 👌🏻😳
Yes but is up to you, because is you replaced the LCA there is no guarantee that the parts are the same specs and if your off by millimeters that can get your alignment off, plus by you removing all the suspension components probably is gonna be off
Thanks Bullet! 🇨🇦👍🏻
You replaced the lower control arm and what is the name of the other part that you said it is good to change it too
Sway bar end links
Has mas videos compa, saludos desde Tijuana 🇲🇽
Gracias claro que si
Ulises carmona qué tal compa ya tengo canal en español por si quieres ver algo, aquí esta el canal
TIJUANA IN DA HOUSE!
Do you have a link for where you purchased these lower control arms?
Detroit Axle - Both (2) Front Lower Driver & Passenger Side Control Arm Assembly - 10-Year Warranty www.amazon.com/dp/B01AGZ19W6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_owltDbC5C84RQ
Thanks
No problem
Nice video bro, I have a little question... With the lower Arms.... you must to replace the whole piece? or you can just replace the bushings? Thanks for the video bro!
You can if you can find them, but this is the easiest way, plus if you replace the bushings you have to press them in!
What are the affects of having a bad or worn out lower control arm ?
Tires wear uneven
Hi i know you show us how to replays can you please tell us why are you replays it it make a noise when you are driving how to know when need to replescement
If you check the bushing and they look bad, or missing pieces of rubber, is time to replace it, plus my car is 20 years old!! Every component with bushing should be replaced by now, just take this as a maintenance job
What the name of the part your were losing the bolts at 6:53
Radius rod front lower arm
Cool.....
Thanks for all the great info!!!!!!
No problem
I have the same question for this, I have to alignment
Maybe after you replace the lower control arm you should do alignment but I didn’t do it because I’ll wait like a month to replace the tie rod ends and the rear upper control arms then I did the alignment
But to be honest I don’t think you have to do it but if you get after market parts maybe there not the exact same size then the originals and then you have to do the alignment
Bullet Solano , thanks, cuz I have the same car, and buy new tires and then I alignment the car, but the mechanic told me that I have to chance the upper camber arm in both sides
No problem and if you change the upper control arm don’t get eBay ones get some from the auto parts store because the ones you get on eBay there not good
I wanna ask you some questions about my honda odyssey car
+immanuel amo ok
Stabilizer bar end link job is the hardest-easiest job on the driveway! There are always problems, and rust and lack of space, and then, all the other unforeseen issues...just did my whole car and one was “not that difficult”....the rest were pure evil......😂🇨🇦👍🏻
My advice: bring a useable cutting tool and heat, and be ready to use it! 🤟🏻
Yep
What were the signs/noises from bad lower control arms
Bad bushings and tires ware out unevenly
Bullet Solano I just hear/ feel a clunking noise under the driver side foot, I replaced my Sway bar bushings and endlinks but the clunking is still there
Check your shocks
On two different vehicles I've had they pulled to one side while accelerating and pulled to the other side while braking/engine braking when the control arm bushings started to go
Get the wheel up in the air and grab it and try to wiggle up/down and left/right. If they rattle at all then it could be ball joints.
Hola amigo tienes este video en español
ruclips.net/video/z1BRWk2qdv8/видео.html
Que problema presenta cuando esa parte se daña
Mala alineación y mal desgaste de la llantas
my language is poor
+immanuel amo what’s the problem with your car?