Regarding the F8 Thing and the rule of thumb timing one has also to take sensor size (and hence: crop factor) into consideration. Since on M43 DOF and focal length are doubled the rules should be adapted. Shutterspeed = 1/(double the lenses focal length), So @150mm one is safe from camera movement softness at 1/300s, @400 its 1/800s. Thats without stabilization of course. The sharpness sweetspot of lenses usually is reached when stopped down one or two fstops, beginning at max aperture. Just a few examples: the Sigma 56/f1.4 will have maxed technical sharpness (but still shallow DOF) at f2.2-f2.8 already. The PL @12mm maxes resolution @f4-f5.6, @60mm around @f5.6-6.3 (of course individual production copies might vary) We have to bear in mind that within the M43 universe (or shall I say "optics") the real physical diameter of a lens @f8 equals that of f16(!) on a standard fullframe lens. Those aperture diameters are already very tiny and thats where softness due to refraction issues might slowly start to creep in. So on M43 I'd go beyond f6.3 (f13(!) already in terms of real diameter and depth of field) on very special and rare occasions only!🙂🍻👍
@Nature's Image Photography Workshops And Tours Had you factored this into the "Rule of thumb for hand-held photo's section of this video: Or were the settings you set on that screen @8.15s for non M43 cameras? And we would need to double this as the poster above has suggested? So for my G9 and Olympus 40-150mm @150mm I would want to have a starting SS of 1/300s (As a rule of thumb) and if I were to use half the focal length at 75mm I would use 1/150s SS? Thanks, the penny is taking a long time to drop for me on this one so I appreciate the help
Thanks Andrew; from a fellow G9 user. The focus settings for static vs moving items vs depth of field is something I need more work on. Appreciate the simplistic explanation.
Brilliant. 1 - I changed to 1-Area focus last week at your recommendation and it was lots better. 2 - Only this morning I was just too close to this robin so I stepped back a few yards and - bingo. I agree wholeheartedly with the option of a sharper photo taken from further back as this camera with the 100-400mm lens has a great cropping facility if you know what I mean. 3 - I can see what you mean about using flash but I never use it for anything. 4 - Info noted - I ended up with too many 'soft' kingfisher shots and thought maybe it was because the light was too harsh (bright). Interesting what you say about the bee - never thought to look at the wings after I've taken a shot. Pleased I'm not the only one who gets lots of unsharp pictures.
This is all good stuff, thanks. You have some lovely creatures, landscape and light there in Oz! One thing I picked up from another RUclipsr on the subject of animals is not to be afraid of a higher ISO. I'm using a G9 too and often need to go to 1600 ISO for a sharp image in our dreary winter light here in the UK. That can be the key to having enough depth of field and fast shutter speed. Image stabilisation helps with camera shake but it doesn't stop the tiny movements that birds and small animals are doing;-)
Many thanks for this Andrew, so useful, including as a bit of a confidence boost when you're beginning and nothing seems to make your photos as sharp as you know that new lens/new tripod/new camera ought to make them. Clearly explained with humour and at times self-deprecating, lovely presentation with all that's needed to get people thinking about, precisely,, what they do with the hardware.
Could watch these type of videos all day! The Bob Ross of photography! Love it. So daunting as newbie though. How do you know which shutter speed to pick?
Thanks Rich, glad you enjoyed my video. How do you know what shutter speed to pick...that's a bit question and one that I couldn't answer in a short reply. But I have answered these questions fairly comprehensively in some of my other videos. So (and you only have yourself to blame for this) since you say you could watch my videos all day, I have a playlist called 'Photography School.' Here is the link: ruclips.net/p/PLyJvGWGIerF8bsSrOHpEWZybQ6XqGYb_d If you are new to choosing your own camera settings, you might like to start at the beginning and watch them all. But to specifically answer your question, take a look at the videos on SHUTTER SPEED, COMBINING APERTURE AND SHUTTER SPEED...and - most importantly - UNIVERSAL STARTING POINT. Note that the Photography School series is not specific to the Lumix G9, it's for all photographers. But I have done plenty of videos showing how I use the G9 as well (there is a playlist for that too!). Cheers, Andrew
Great information Andrew, so well explained. Being a micro four thirds user perhaps you could clear something up for me? Re shutter speed/focal length. If focal length is 100 should shutter speed be 200 or above for micro 4/3 or will 100 and over suffice. Thanks in anticipation.
That is a pretty loose rule, more like a general guideline...so not to be applied too strictly. I would say if you have the image stabiliser on, then 100mm = 100/th sec or faster. If you had the stabiliser off for some reason, then 100mm = 200th/sec or faster. The introduction of such good image stabilisers these days means traditional guidelines can be treated with a bit more flexibility.
No, and really I don't have the analytical mind to do the test and make the comparison. When I do choose to use the F8 thing, my thought process is this: "The sun is nice and bright...oh well, might as well give it a try." I am glad to see the term 'F8 thing' is catching on!
@@naturesimagephotography Ha, yes, that's about the extent of my thought process too. I generally start with the PL 100/400 wide open to maximize shutter speed and keep ISO a bit lower. If a bird sits still long enough, I'll try some different aperatures all the while taking a lot of images and then just sort through them later to find the best one.
I have never had to do that before. I believe English subtitles are automatic. It looks like if I want anything else I have to pick a language...perhaps you know more about this than I do?
@@naturesimagephotography Almost all the rest have subtitles. I use auto-translation to understand the text, I hardly understand English "by ear". I usually include translation into Russian.
I know all this, but I still watched to the end, because the presentation and delivery is so good. Great video
I'll usually watch to the end because you never know, might pick up just one tip that will help your/my photography.
This is the best photography video I have ever watched - and I have watched 1000s of them on YT.
Thank you...very kind.
Regarding the F8 Thing and the rule of thumb timing one has also to take sensor size (and hence: crop factor) into consideration. Since on M43 DOF and focal length are doubled the rules should be adapted.
Shutterspeed = 1/(double the lenses focal length),
So @150mm one is safe from camera movement softness at 1/300s, @400 its 1/800s. Thats without stabilization of course.
The sharpness sweetspot of lenses usually is reached when stopped down one or two fstops, beginning at max aperture. Just a few examples: the Sigma 56/f1.4 will have maxed technical sharpness (but still shallow DOF) at f2.2-f2.8 already. The PL @12mm maxes resolution @f4-f5.6, @60mm around @f5.6-6.3 (of course individual production copies might vary)
We have to bear in mind that within the M43 universe (or shall I say "optics") the real physical diameter of a lens @f8 equals that of f16(!) on a standard fullframe lens. Those aperture diameters are already very tiny and thats where softness due to refraction issues might slowly start to creep in. So on M43 I'd go beyond f6.3 (f13(!) already in terms of real diameter and depth of field) on very special and rare occasions only!🙂🍻👍
@Nature's Image Photography Workshops And Tours Had you factored this into the "Rule of thumb for hand-held photo's section of this video: Or were the settings you set on that screen @8.15s for non M43 cameras? And we would need to double this as the poster above has suggested? So for my G9 and Olympus 40-150mm @150mm I would want to have a starting SS of 1/300s (As a rule of thumb) and if I were to use half the focal length at 75mm I would use 1/150s SS? Thanks, the penny is taking a long time to drop for me on this one so I appreciate the help
Beautifully explained.
Thanks Andrew; from a fellow G9 user. The focus settings for static vs moving items vs depth of field is something I need more work on. Appreciate the simplistic explanation.
Andrew thanks so much for all your vids and your clear explanations. Pure gold.
Cheers from France !
Some nice photos.
perfect explanation in sweet soft voice...great way
Awesome video! Thank you Andrew!
Methodical, very clearly explained and illustrated, and greatly helpful. Thanks Andrew!
Well done. Very good examples.
Beginner here. Thanks for the tips! I love your videos on the G9!
Brilliant.
1 - I changed to 1-Area focus last week at your recommendation and it was lots better.
2 - Only this morning I was just too close to this robin so I stepped back a few yards and - bingo. I agree wholeheartedly with the option of a sharper photo taken from further back as this camera with the 100-400mm lens has a great cropping facility if you know what I mean.
3 - I can see what you mean about using flash but I never use it for anything.
4 - Info noted - I ended up with too many 'soft' kingfisher shots and thought maybe it was because the light was too harsh (bright).
Interesting what you say about the bee - never thought to look at the wings after I've taken a shot.
Pleased I'm not the only one who gets lots of unsharp pictures.
This is all good stuff, thanks. You have some lovely creatures, landscape and light there in Oz! One thing I picked up from another RUclipsr on the subject of animals is not to be afraid of a higher ISO. I'm using a G9 too and often need to go to 1600 ISO for a sharp image in our dreary winter light here in the UK. That can be the key to having enough depth of field and fast shutter speed. Image stabilisation helps with camera shake but it doesn't stop the tiny movements that birds and small animals are doing;-)
Many thanks for this Andrew, so useful, including as a bit of a confidence boost when you're beginning and nothing seems to make your photos as sharp as you know that new lens/new tripod/new camera ought to make them. Clearly explained with humour and at times self-deprecating, lovely presentation with all that's needed to get people thinking about, precisely,, what they do with the hardware.
Excellent review. I always enjoy your videos.
Great video thank you
Could watch these type of videos all day! The Bob Ross of photography! Love it. So daunting as newbie though. How do you know which shutter speed to pick?
Thanks Rich, glad you enjoyed my video. How do you know what shutter speed to pick...that's a bit question and one that I couldn't answer in a short reply. But I have answered these questions fairly comprehensively in some of my other videos. So (and you only have yourself to blame for this) since you say you could watch my videos all day, I have a playlist called 'Photography School.' Here is the link:
ruclips.net/p/PLyJvGWGIerF8bsSrOHpEWZybQ6XqGYb_d
If you are new to choosing your own camera settings, you might like to start at the beginning and watch them all. But to specifically answer your question, take a look at the videos on SHUTTER SPEED, COMBINING APERTURE AND SHUTTER SPEED...and - most importantly - UNIVERSAL STARTING POINT.
Note that the Photography School series is not specific to the Lumix G9, it's for all photographers. But I have done plenty of videos showing how I use the G9 as well (there is a playlist for that too!).
Cheers, Andrew
@@naturesimagephotography this is so helpful thanks! 🙌🏻
Great information Andrew, so well explained. Being a micro four thirds user perhaps you could clear something up for me? Re shutter speed/focal length. If focal length is 100 should shutter speed be 200 or above for micro 4/3 or will 100 and over suffice. Thanks in anticipation.
That is a pretty loose rule, more like a general guideline...so not to be applied too strictly. I would say if you have the image stabiliser on, then 100mm = 100/th sec or faster. If you had the stabiliser off for some reason, then 100mm = 200th/sec or faster. The introduction of such good image stabilisers these days means traditional guidelines can be treated with a bit more flexibility.
@@naturesimagephotography Thanks so much Andrew, the fact that with micro 4/3 a 100mm lens becomes 200mm had me really confused.
Excellent video and highly recommended.....jimmy
Excellent video, Andrew. Have you found the PL 100-400 to have any particular sweet spot or spots relative to the F8 Thing?
No, and really I don't have the analytical mind to do the test and make the comparison. When I do choose to use the F8 thing, my thought process is this: "The sun is nice and bright...oh well, might as well give it a try."
I am glad to see the term 'F8 thing' is catching on!
@@naturesimagephotography Ha, yes, that's about the extent of my thought process too. I generally start with the PL 100/400 wide open to maximize shutter speed and keep ISO a bit lower. If a bird sits still long enough, I'll try some different aperatures all the while taking a lot of images and then just sort through them later to find the best one.
Turn on subtitles please
I have never had to do that before. I believe English subtitles are automatic. It looks like if I want anything else I have to pick a language...perhaps you know more about this than I do?
@@naturesimagephotography The Subtitle button does not appear under this video :( ...
Does it appear under my other videos? I certainly did not turn anything off...but not sure if I need to turn anything on...
Which language?
@@naturesimagephotography Almost all the rest have subtitles. I use auto-translation to understand the text, I hardly understand English "by ear". I usually include translation into Russian.