Trying To Fix A Husqvarna Trimmer But It Doesn't Go To Plan
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 20 ноя 2022
- Links to products I have in my tool bag.
Compression tester. amzn.to/2NMgeze
Spark Checker. amzn.to/3bnXjmA
Tygon Fuel Line. amzn.to/3aCGntm
Carb Adjustment tools. amzn.to/3k7cgxe
Primer Bulb. amzn.to/3dC0WYK
Fuel Filter. amzn.to/2ZC0T7i
Above are affiliate links which means we receive a percentage of the revenue made from purchasing products via those links.
Thanks for watching. This Husqvarna trimmer, should have been an easy fix, but it was anything but that.
I haven’t had to replace a carb yet, so I always clean. Observations: the return line looked pretty loose on that nipple. I stock all four sizes of real Tygon line, two of which are the same OD but different ID, so one or the other will usually work. Another thing I’d begin to suspect at the point of carb adjustments not affecting performance is an air leak, so I’d be doing a pressure/vacuum test after running the carb through the ultrasound. I’d also examine the main jet needle tip as well as the metering lever height. I always pull the filter screen and adjusting screws before going in the tank.
Fuel and return lines look very loose on their nipples.
I didn't consider an air leak. It may be either in the carb or maybe at the crank seals, or somewhere else. Good idea on doing a pressure test. I am not too experienced, plus I forget things easily. I'd blame it on old age, but I am only 62. LOL.
@@vernonbruce3722 I’m 75 and have been teaching myself small engine work for about 18 months, focusing a lot on diagnostics. Elsewhere would also include base gaskets and clamshell gaskets on some engines.
thank you Rein Ciarfella.
I think you're on to something
I fought with one of these earlier this year. I ended up replacing the oil seals and all the gaskets with a gasket kit for like $20. On this model, it's super easy because of the design. 2 small gaskets sit in a groove on the cylinder and the oil seals sit inside a little groove on the upper and lower. I did find using a little RTV to help hold the gaskets in place was useful. I only could find OEM parts for that rebuild. I also put a new aftermarket carb (HIPA) on it. Under $50 in parts, and relatively simple repair. Oh, it also needed the on/off switch replaced - it would periodically close the loop and shut off mid-run. I think that may have contributed to the troubleshooting issues I had with it. Simple on/off toggle switch works great and super cheap.
thank you Matt Wickert.
There really bad on seals. Seems to be pretty common in hotter areas also like Texas
@@philliphall5198 The one I worked on, was used commercially, although I'm not sure how often or how long. This one in particular, ended up needing a new clutch and clutch drum, and parts were still less than half the cost of a new unit. Would have been scrap if a shop worked on it due to labor costs.
I have this trimmer, 2yrs ago I just got a aftermarket carb, installed it and it has been running great since. Best $20 I spent.
nice purchase!
It might be the fuel line, though not because of a "blockage" or "restricted" fuel flow...quite the opposite. As soon as I saw the new black filter line (with the larger-than-original-spec inner diameter) slip VERY easily onto the carb @7:34, I got the impression that its lack of a tight seal might cause the carb to pull less fuel than it was designed to do. That anemic fuel bulb seems to support that theory--a weak siphoning effect due to a poor seal in the line. The return line also looked loose, which also might contribute to the problem; anyone who has been sprayed with gas after forgetting to loosen the cap on the tank knows that the contents are normally under pressure thanks to tight seals in the fuel system.
I think you might be on to something!
You were dead right on it starving out. Waiting on the next one! Blessings!
thank you Lewie McNeely
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE U 2!
I have this trimmer and I must say, it's nice. And btw, nice job on the repair!
thanks it's coming along despite it putting up a fight.
I think that the fuel line size that you used is too big, allowing air to be sucked past the ports on the carb.
ah very keen eye.
These videos are so well made and pack a lot of informations, I recommended your channel to my family and they are enjoying watching your videos(greetings from Germany)
I appreciate that, let me know if there's something you'd like to improve on, or change. thanks again.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I think your channel and your projects are amazing, I have nothing to criticise and I think it is a wonderful thing, that you answer every comment personally. The first video I watched from you was your scooter build and I wonder if you still got it. I love your channel and if I can support you more, let me know how, because your videos are amazing and I learned so much from them.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE a good video idea would be a old chainsaw, like from the 70s ore 80s. But they are hard to come by(in Germany) I don’t know how it is in the US. Good luck and I appreciate every video you upload🙏
I appreciate it.
I agree with the spring assist also I don't like it either, glad you were able to use the oem zama carb on it and just the metering diaphragm was needed to be replaced.
thank you Turningwrenches85
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE your welcome
I agree with the recoil issue.
thank you Keith Dunbar.
I have one that had the same problem, and it was the flame arrestor that was clogged on the exhaust muffler. Just removed the arrestor and it’s working like never before!
thank you Neil Co.
Same trimmer as mine. One day pulled it out of a dumpster and had to replace fast tank because of the lines and then somehow lost the left bolt to the carb that goes under the air filter so I went to hardware store and got a new one but it was so small it tore it up and I think I have an air leak that inhibits it’s ability to start but once it is warm it seems to run flawlessly. Also leaks some kind of oil right out the bottom of the exhaust. I think I have wasted my time on it with the trick of it being around $200 which must’ve seemed enticing to me at the time for the money. Oh well, great video btw and thanks for reading all that 😂
thank you, I appreciate it. As for wasting your time, I don't think you did, it works somewhat
Mr IHG, can you tell us what your day job is? your videos and excellent explanations make following along very easy. You could easily be a college professor!
lol... I wish I could but can't however me being a professor makes sense having a lot "coworkers"
I have this same weed whacker, it's the best. Great video as always, will you be posting a video on Friday too?
nice, this is a really nice machine!
I would definitely clean it again. I have ran into similar situations. Knowing their carburetor or the problem I took everything apart and put it back together and it still would not start
Normally the second go around I get it right it just is something I might have missed first cleaning it.
thank you David Frank.
I think you should check the spark arrestor. You can see smoke coming out of the muffler and its bogging a little.
that's a good idea.
Check the exhaust port to for blockage, worked on a blower recently that had to be tuned very very rich even after a carb cleaning to run. When I checked the exhaust port, it was almost completely plugged. To clean this, what I did was turn over the engine until the piston covers the port completely. Then flake the carbon off with a flat head screwdriver. Make sure the flakes of carbon come out of the exhaust port. Had to retune the carb afterwards for it to run properly.
There is a small hole which is from crankcase that control carb's pumping diaphragm it could be blocked
checked it, it was clear and the gasket sealing was also good.
Depends on the carb cost. I’d give it a good cleaning, but I think you have an intake air leak somewhere.
Great point!
Once you changed the fuel lines, I noted that it took many pumps to prime. I am 99% sure the filter is clogged.
I think you're onto something
I suspect a combination of an air leak on the carb itself, (pressure testing would eliminate that) perhaps. The other is a dirty/plugged check valve. Either/both could cause the symptoms.
great answer, just what I needed, thank you The Lawnmower Lady
I bought the 128LD model brand new at Lowes several years ago and the mixture screw settings on the carb seemed like they weren't right out of the box, seemed like they were set too lean at the factory so I had to adjust them until I got it running correctly. It started and ran great for a few seasons then all of a sudden it just stopped running all together, won't start at all and won't even fire on gas poured down the carb. It has spark and great compression, will have to dive deeper into it one of these days, see if I can figure it out and fix it.
good luck to you, have you used a compression tester on it?
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Thanks, I did use a compression tester, I think it was 120 PSI of compression when I did the test. I also checked the spark arrestor screen and it was clean and not clogged. I'm thinking maybe it could've fouled the spark plug with oil or maybe the ignition timing, it did smoke when it was running even though I mixed the fuel correctly. I even switched to using that premixed engineered fuel in cans and it smoked even then too which was odd. Will have to dig into it I guess, hopefully find the problem.
thanks for the information
This is great! Where do you get the aftermarket carburetors from?
I get my from Amazon, and the only reasons because of the shipping and tracking.
Like some other people have said that one fuel line looks loose so maybe it’s drawing air into the fuel system. Cleaning the carb doesn’t cost anything so I would do that before buying a replacement
I think you're right, thank you Todd Osterhout.
1st comment brother btw best instructions ever..
You were close but almost the first
thanks
When you put the fuel delivery line back on the carb it looked loose ie in slipped on too easy. Could it be sucking air through that joint and not allowing the fuel to pressurise and fill the bulb thus starving the engine of fuel?
nice catch, I think you're on to something.
If it was my personal trimmer I would clean the carb before investing money in a replacement carb
makes sense
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE you did mention that it was a good friend of yours so I would consult them to see what they would prefer to happen, if they don't mind spending the money for a new carb that would probably be the easiest route to take.
Won’t stop it from running but could leak. It looked like the return line on the carb was a little loose like it is oversized. Maybe it just looked that way and is fine but might want to double check.
thank you TKC.
I would replace the carburetor at this point. I noticed the carb in the video is Chinese so it may be aftermarket already.
didn't it say Zama/ china?
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Probably. I just saw the China stamp. Either way I would buy a new aftermarket carb for it.
I once had the same problem. The trimmer was still quiet new, replaced the diaphragms tried to tune it ran for a while but got worse as it got warmer. Then i took off the exhaust and saw the scored cylinder.
oh, that's not good at all.
It points to Fuel Filter, I have swapped fuel filters from my leaf blowers to trimmers which are different in size and it doesn’t work. Have to buy exact size. Don’t forget to check exhaust screen.
thanks
I’ve been working on this same exact model (128ldx) on and off for the past two days. I’ve rebuilt the original carburetor and replaced all the lines and fuel filter. It runs perfectly fine then all of a sudden it cuts off like it’s out of gas. I then replaced the ignition module with another from a junk trimmer. Still did the same thing. I took the flywheel off and checked if the key was sheared. Key was perfectly fine. I took a carburetor off that old junk trimmer and rebuilt it and it still ran the same way. I’ve taken this unit apart probably 8 times. I’ve checked all the wiring to make sure it wasn’t grounding out. It has over 115 pounds of compression. I’ve tried aftermarket’s carburetors and had 50/50 luck. What’s the chance both rebuilt carbs are bad? Both ignition modules are bad? It will sit and idle all day. Only thing I can guess with this unit is either a busted piston ring or a bad crank case seal(s)? I don’t really want to spend $45 on an OEM carb to find out if it does the same thing. I mean I’ve only spent about 4 hours on this stupid thing. This is one of those situations I’m too stubborn to leave it alone but I need to know why it doesn’t run. It’s not a very smart business decision on my part. But, I guess that’s how you learn.
thanks for the information
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I wouldn’t consider that information. Rather more an explanation of frustration. Lol
I’d clean it again. I noticed one fuel line looked like it didn’t fit snug but I could be wrong because I couldn’t tell how much pressure you were applying to it
I think you're onto something
I think the fuel line isn' t in proper size and its leaking in too much air from the carburator fuel line connection and which isn' t allowing to fill up primer bulb.
I think you're onto something
At some point the existing carb goes from being a prospect to a suspect. I think I would go to Hipa and get a carb if in your situation.
nice choice
I have an echo srm-225 and it ran for 15 years and is still running
very nice!
Pause the video at 5:35 and look at the pumping membrane. lol
I agree! I forgot to mention that in my original comment, but if the entire diaphragm isn’t perfectly flat then it needs to be replaced. On that diaphragm, even though the valve flaps may have been ok, the slight bulge over the other area says it’s time to replace it.
I had exactly the same problem on my stihl trimmer, no fuel were going to the primer. I replaced everything inside the carb but nothing. Just buy a new one, you’re gonna save a lot of money and time😉
you got it.
But this way makes a much better video!
Hey inside Home garage I got this Poulan Pro chainsaw in I got it for my family member and it's from 2015 he took it to a small engine repair shop and they said it was blowing up well when he got home he got it started and he said you have to follow the instructions exactly the same how to start it when I got home with it I got it running but after I replace the fuel line it is not start anymore even with starting fluid so I pulled the spark plug and took off the muffler to and the Pistons all scored up same with the board so why is it prematuring wearing it's kind of weird it's got low hours on it he ran of two cycle oil
Also a tip Poulan Pro is basically a Rebrand Husqvarna because when I was replacing the fuel The Recoil said Husqvarna and the plugs Husqvarna also some other stuff on the chainsaw said it was Husqvarna parts
the correct oil / fuel mixture Is key to Not score the piston, If the piston is scored then either there wasn't enough oil, or the mixture settings, was too "lean" causing the engine to burn up
I would try a new filter?
yes I think I will.
Which one do you think is better Husqvarna echo
personally ,echo.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE ok
I think you might have a compression issue and/or it’s got a scored piston and cylinder.
thank you Andy Becker.
I most of the time replace the carb for the 15 20 dollars you pay it saves more time an less hassle with the project.
nothing wrong with that at all.
Hey bro what's up? I really think that you should replace the carburetor and get it over with bro.
me too!
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE the old carburetor looking like headache and worries bro
Replace the carb
Replace carb. You checked the carb initially and replaced metering diaphragm. I noticed fuel lines were not fitting snug so air may be introduced to fuel making it too lean. 😥
I think you're onto something!
I would try to clean the carb first. If you can’t get it cleaned then stick it in a ultra sonic cleaner. That’ll get any dirt out of the carb and if that doesn’t do it, then replace it.
thank you William Snow.
Nice trimmer
But the carb is sure cheap and replacing it would be the better choice at this point. I know you just took it apart and put a brand new diaphragm in.. however you should be able to find a cheap aftermarket replacement..
I think you're right.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I've dealt with this series of trimmer from Husqvarna before and for some reason the fuel line that is made in another land is definitely not the same as the one that's made here to install. And then when you get a carburetor on top of that you've got all these varying differences.. it just makes the most sense to get something from One source and install it and be done with it.
I would buy a other carburetor. Could be the check valve are not working the way they should.
thank you RayFpv.
This guy sounds very similar to rich rebuilds, especially in the intro
I appreciate that
I usually will try cleaning it before i decide to replace the carburetor
Good choice!
Good morning
Morning
Morning always nice to see you.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE thx im off to school
If fuel lines bad so is pump and metering diaphragm, that’s about 95% of the time, also never forget vent
thank you Phillip Hall
New carb, especially with the purge bulb issue. Make life simple.😁
you got that right.
I always remove metering needle , screen and low -high screws and blow out carb passages …
you already know what the next video is about then.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE 🐇
Clean it, obviously :P
hmm. better break out the carb cleaner then
Poor seal of the fuel lines. Tight fitting fuel lines should fix this running issue. Seems like air is getting into the lines from the loose fit on the carburetor. By the way it didn't want to prime and it ran and died even with adjustment I would say the fuel lines are your targeted problem. Just fit some tight lines and tune the carb and it should be the beast that they are meant to be.
I think you're right!
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE very good my friend. Great things happen when two mechanics put their minds together. Also a welder and professional lawn care service owner that works on every piece of equipment we have. My equipment never sees a mechanic shop. I just go to them for parts.
Check for an air leak , that's also another reason for it's results your getting
I think I will thanks!
Seems like the fuel line is too lose on the carb port.
So your carb Pump sucks air and also your primer Bulb had air issues.
Try a tight clamp or the right fuel line, if you already got it delivered.
Greetings from Germany
I think you're on to something
I got a husqvarna 4 cycle wished you replace the gear ⚙ drive assembly it's junk
Sucking air? Maybe the lines are not correct size.
you might be onto something.
I would reclean and rebuild it just knowing I have the original carburetor
it's always worth a shot.
sounds very lean i would replace the carb.
I think you're right.
Try to find a carburetor rebuild kit.. if you can't find one just order a new carburetor....
Thank you JJ Juarez.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE you're very welcomed...
I would replace it. they carbs aren't expensive.
You are correct .
You used too large ID fuel line and it is not tight on the carb port.
I think you're right.
No sarcasm
none taken
I'd do the easy thing and buy a new carb. But, you don't learn anything that way.
quite possible, thanks
Junk Carburetor or Air Leak, pressure & vacuum leak check
thanks