You are 💯 correct maintenance is usually neglected 👍 Those type of filters get super filthy very fast after 2 cuts I usually blow it out. I pretty much follow your maintenance once a yr. The only thing I do different when gapping the valves I leave the gauge in place while tightening just saves time in readjusting also definitely torque blade. Thx for the good info
This is why I like the dual element filter designs as you have the best of both combined: an oil moistened foam element and the pleated inner element just in case the foam one fails. This is usually on commercial engines, but that's what I am most experienced with. The Kohler Command series, Honda GX, Echo PAS-2620 X Series and Briggs I/C and Vanguard all had these. I like the former three engine brands than the latter Briggs though as they haven't burned me (as in failing or requiring repair) as often as the Briggs have.
I remember the old Briggs & Stratton mowers with the pulsa-jet and vaccu-jet carbs. They always took a few pulls to start up. They got so much better in later days until they started using Chinesium parts. i will try to keep my 12 year old machine going as long as possible. Gonna check my valve clearances and change the oil right now!
And yet my experience with Chinese Honda clones was more positive than the experience with Briggs. Heck, even Briggs embraces the Chinese Honda clones now. Then again, if you look at Kohler's engine lineup, especially its Command Pro line, it's all Honda clones now too with some differences.
Hi buddy, when I use my mower, I always pull it lightly to prevent the rope from snapping on me, I really care about my mower so much, these videos are so helpful😊
Probably adjust the valve lash whenever the engine gets hard to start or it loses compression, change the oil once every 25 hours which is Hondas recommendation although Briggs and Stratton recommend doing it once every 50 hours. At least check & clean the air filter between mows & replace it once every year depending upon how dusty it gets, check the spark plug once every season, clean & check its gap as necessary,I have never had to replace a Briggs and Stratton engines spark plug but I have had to replace a Honda lawnmower spark plug when it was burning a bit of oil. Sharpen or replace the blades on your lawnmower once a year,on my Briggs and Stratton powered lawnmower the swing blades which are fitted in Australia needs to be replaced a couple of years later because they're already worn out The swing blades hit rocks & tree roots which stick out of the front lawn so they get knocked around but they're a sacrificial item which saves the crankshaft from getting bent !
As shown in this great video, the correct sequence on installing the blade is (1) Blade in correct orientation (2) the plate with the two pins and (3) install the 5/8 in bolt. I have added a lockwasher under the head of the 5/8 in bolt. This might not be necessary however I feel more confidence in having the lockwasher under the bolt head. I realize this is not the factory design, as the two pin plate should be sufficient to keep the blade bolt tight on the crankshaft. I would appreciate your comments on adding a lock washer to the assembly. The mower I am refering to is a Troy-Built with a Honda engine. Circa somewhere around 2014. Thank you for your opinion and please keep up the great videos. Herb Spencer
I hate having to pull hard. I am getting old, so a gentle pull to start it the first time is what I want. Though my flathead Briggs Quantum doesn't need as much. Still a 1 pull mower after 11 years. I do every year though of the basics. It doesn't cost much, and the return on investment of a well-running mower is worth it. I keep debating if I want to put a battery back on my mower using a generic battery from the hardware store. But for now, pull start is good enough.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Sadly that is the case. The only problems I have ever had with my mower was one time the carburetor DID need cleaning and that was about 2 years ago. Just taking it off and hitting it with some carb cleaner and it's been fine since. The other are just this mower eats wheels. I am on my 3rd set of front drive wheels.
3 месяца назад
I do the maintenance every two years. My lawn is small in Florida so every two years is ok. This is about every 100 hours of operation. I do not use ethanol gas; the mower is used almost weekly. This has worked for me in the past.
Good advice, nice work, The only thing I would do different is I would have changed the plug, Plugs are cheap and not worth having an issue with. I always use NGK plugs.Thanks for the video.
It's baffling how many times I find these engines completely neglected to the point of "I'm amazed they still run!" Recently did a service on an MTD mower, with a Briggs 500 Series, fuel was black with the engine oil, and the muffler was actually bleeding it. And yes, it had little engine oil in the crankcase. I was shocked at how well it ran after I did some much needed maintenance on it. How bad can they get?! Well, I've seen some of your examples, had mine own... and know we've probably not even seen the tip of the iceberg! 🤣 Cheers! Great video!
Current house came with a 2012 TB110 w/ a Briggs 575ex (140cc OHV) that had been obviously neglected and abused. Despite a badly bent crank and severe shaking to the point of losing several bolts (including the handle arm bolts multiple times, which the engine/blade ate at full speed) it's continued to run perfectly until it recently was replaced for the front axle height arm shaking off and being lost. In general, small engines are so low-strung and basic that they're almost impossible to kill with any oil in them. The biggest problem with the Briggs OHV that I've seen kill them is the plastic cam lobe sleeve braking loose and shifting on the shaft, ruining timing unless the entire Cam assy is replaced.
We service our mower's like this every year, and change the oil twice a year. Little bit of time and money now saves alot down the road. Oil's cheap(ish) engines are not
It's amazing how much damage a lack of maintenance can do. I had a riding mower given to me in running condition. Despite the fact that it ran when I got it, I have put $400 in parts in it so far. Nearly all of it was from a lack of maintenance, or being left outdoors. This mower continued running despite a total absence of care. Imagine what it could do if it was actually cared for.
yep I can believe it. it's always funny how someone can give a machine away as a gift, not realizing the amount of work the recipient will have to do to get it working again .
The one positive is that this is a commercial grade tractor that will bring twice what I have had to put into it. I'm probably going to keep it in the permanent fleet, since I probably won't find anything better in my price range.
Finally going to try and save one of these, now I’m at the whole tear down phase, I’m just glad I have many parts to pick and choose. The valves seem fine but there’s an exhaust leak. Left it after I started it up and adjusted the rpm’s.. I stopped it to re start it and it misfired. It was the engine that made me absolutely despise the new ohv Briggs engine.. now I’m determined to get it running again one way or another. All the plastic is brand new on it is part of the reason and the deck is in great shape but it was neglected from its previous owner big time.
My main maintenance interval on my equipment varies. I send my snow blower and lawn mowers in for a yearly service. If you went with the intervals specified in the owner's manual for my Honda mowers, it starts with checking the oil before each use. This could be weekly or since I cut the grass commercially, this could be daily. I don't check it daily but I do check it often enough, at least once or twice per week. The next "maintenance" is the air filters. On my Commercial Honda, they say every 25 to 50 hours. Recommended oil changes are once per 50 hours on my Honda trimmer and my HRX mower and about every 100 on the commercial. Of course, I try to sharpen the blades at least twice or three times a season (again, mowing commercially) and cleaning the mower decks at least once per week or when needed. Also, I prefer the two-stage air filters, the foam and pleated systems as I find only one type typically can lead to some problems.
I recently had a friend of mine give me a Yard Machine riding mower with a locked up engine (a Briggs 15.5, I think). He said that the engine locked up while he was using it, and then he just left it sitting in his back yard for several years. The engine does not turn at all, but is full of decent looking oil. He said that he did not add it afterwards. When I removed the engine cover, I found that the starter had not disengaged, was jammed in the flywheel, and was now rusted solid in that position. I removed the starter, and it still didn't turn, but I strongly suspect that the starter was the original issue and that it is now just locked up from sitting out in the weather for years. I have dealt with rust jacked car engines before, but i have never encountered one in a lawn mower. I have plenty of ATF and Acetone on hand, but what would be the best way to go about it and try to see if is just rust jacked? I got it as a parts mower, but I have nothing to lose by at least trying to make it run again if it is possible.
I chose this video to ask my question. Mower is Snapper Model 7800981. Engine is Briggs and Stratton Model 121Q 02 0027F1. Issue is emmission of Bluish White smoke when running. Compression reads 148psi . Carb cleaned. Engine starts first pull. Valve lash set to .005 (wasn't off very much from new). Fuel tank and lines, carb bowl cleaned, needle and float good. New plug. Fresh clean oil and Staybol treated fuel. Seems I am down to a blown headgasket and have that on order. I will dearly appreciate any comments you would like to make in repairing the engine to solve the smoking problem. Thank you very much as always! Herb Spencer
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I will do a leak down test prior to installing a new head gasket. However, I am seeing an oil deposit at the bottom of the cylinder head (wet, black). Since there are no other oil deposits anywhere else on the machine, I am lead towards the headgasket as that is a common B&S issue. Thank you for suggesting the leak down test as I had not thought of that.
I'd like to say that I change oil every year, but in reality, I often get lazy, and do it every other year. Air filters should be serviced (cleaned or replaced) twice a year. If you check the air filter twice yearly, you can often get away with just cleaning it by blowing it out with compressed air. Properly maintained air filters will prevent plugs from fouling and/or getting carboned up. Meaning... the plug will last many years, maybe the life of the mower.
I'd say do it yearly if you have large acreage cuz it's a significant amount of wear and tear if you have a small little front yard small being about 600 ft² or less 2 to 5 years
I tried purple power & awesome cleaners on a few oil stains in driveway (Cement)....the awesome from Dollar General worked alot better..spray let is sit 15 mins hosed off..FYI...I know you clean Epuipment & prob. get spills like me...Take it easy
I have a 1979 Honda HR21 mower and a 1980s McCuloch PM610 chainsaw. I thought I was doing well by running them out of gas before storage and changing oil each year on the 4 cycle. Never too old to learn something new. Just picked up a set of feeler guages. Thank you. What spray cleaner do you use?
We have a Troy Bilt that’s 9 years old at this point and when I went in to check the valve clearances recently, not even the .0015 in. feeler fit into the clearance which was genuinely surprising how tight they were Edit: what do you use to lubricate the wheels/axels?
This is my mower! Or really really close. I am saving this for reference. QUESTION : Do you have any videos on repairing the engine brake release (not sure of proper terminology - that bar you pull back before pulling the cord)? Last week, I pulled back that bar and heard a loud snap from down near the engine. Close to broke, so need to fix it with as little money as possible. Great video, by the way. I like how well you explain what you're doing. Will be looking for those feeler gauges next time I go to Harbor Freight. Subscribed. Thank you!
thanks, have you confirmed what broke? I'm guessing the cable broke? if so, you can pull out both ends of the cable and then replace the with some thin wire, either for hanging pictures
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Quick response! Thanks! I have not confirmed what broke, but the cable seems fine, though it will not move in the tube. I wd40'd it on both ends and still no movement. BUT, the snapping sound came from down near the engine. I have not been brave enough to take it all apart just yet. My goal for the day.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE the echo blower I worked on needed fuel lines and one small carb ajustment the edger needs new fuel lines and lit should be running like new
What octane of gas do you use for your mowers? I remember the problems that ethanol in gasoline first caused on lawn mowers years ago. I use 93 octane premium gasoline from Shell and a small amount of blue stabil mixed with the premium gas. I noticed that my lawn mower runs better with premium gas and blue stabil.
Hey bro what's up? I was wondering if you drained the "junk fuel" from the carburetor bowl? In my opinion, it started up, ran and sound a lot better after you did the maintenance on it bro.
I just checked the valve clearance on my high pressure washer, and the valves were too tight. The thing about a hp washer is when starting it has more of a drag on the engine ( even when holding the handle) than a lawnmower.
People used to consider a mower a disposable item ,they woukd kick it the curb when it quit and buy another 139 cheapie. Now those don't exist and there more interest in taking care of the one you have. 9:53
I didn't even realize that Snapper uses rebranded MTD decks. I always thought the decks is what set them apart from the rest. That's too bad I really have no problem with the MTD decks but the different design decks do have occasional advantages and it's nice to be able to have more choices then sticker, engine size, side shoot or not and push, front or rear drive. It used to be that the sticker and deck combination is what actually set them apart. You could find any engine type with any sticker but decks used to be brand specific. Not too disappointing with craftsman, murray, and troy bilt. But companies like cub cadet and snapper just slapping their sticker on a product from someone else just means that much less quality in the world. I'm just an average Joe but it must be heart breaking to people that have been in the field for years.
Couldn’t help but notice how much the plastic covers on the motor was vibrating around. Makes the motor look like it’s vibrating itself to death and apart lol. I’d say as time ages the plastic and the vibrations takes its toll, the plastic covers will eventually break, and fall off with now way of putting them back on since the tabs broke off. Makes me miss the days when they used metal. As for the valve adjustment. OHV sounds good on paper with these engines, but for a push mower engine it’s completely unnecessary. Makes me miss the days when these engines were still a flat head, valve in block style that lasted forever. There was no need for valve adjustments ever. The valves never could get out of adjustment, so it always started good, unless there was junk in the carburetor clogging the jets, but that was an easy fix. They have changed the design of these engines, to cost the user more money over the life of its use, and to cut the life of its use shorter, to require a replacement sooner. No more getting 30 years out of a push mower, now it’s more like 2 years if you’re lucky. And they’ve upped the cost of them by triple what they used to cost. I recently looked at a basic 20 inch push mower at my local home depot it was a Murray brand, and it was $299.99. I was like what the hell!? After taxes that’s gonna be over $300 for a basic 20 inch manual push mower with small wheels! That same style mower was 120 dollars I’d say less than 5 years ago. Somewhere someone messed up something, let corporate greed take over. No wonder people are now much rather look for used ones for either free or very cheap.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE very true a lot of it is government requirements. Perhaps government emission standards required the change from a flat head valve in block to an OHV design, because it’s maybe slightly more efficient, the switch from metal to plastic engine covers was also a government thing, requiring mowers to weigh under a certain weight, same thing happened to riding lawn tractors. But I don’t agree with the government sticking their paws into every single aspect of the things we enjoy. The government is supposed to worry about running this country for the people, as in protecting the country and its people from things like foreign invasion, tyranny, communism, and foreign interferences, domestic and foreign terrorism. Not worry about things like emissions, and weight specs on our vehicles, and outdoor power equipment. They are supposed to worry about that stuff so the people, and its machines can be free. Let machine manufacturers be free to build machines the way they want to, not how the government wants them to. If you ask me companies being required to build their products the way the government wants them to, sounds to me like communism.
If the hit was strong enough sure. If it won't go, it means the problem is going to be a lot harder to find. Have you checked for the basics like spark?
I love that you always clean the machines before doing the maintenace. I always do the same! 😊. Saludos from Mexico
Hello Mexico and thank you for watching!
You're the best for mowers maintenance Mr Clean !!
And yes, once a year is ok to maintain it forever 😊
thank you I appreciate that!
You are 💯 correct maintenance is usually neglected 👍
Those type of filters get super filthy very fast after 2 cuts I usually blow it out. I pretty much follow your maintenance once a yr. The only thing I do different when gapping the valves I leave the gauge in place while tightening just saves time in readjusting also definitely torque blade.
Thx for the good info
I like the way you do it.
This is why I like the dual element filter designs as you have the best of both combined: an oil moistened foam element and the pleated inner element just in case the foam one fails. This is usually on commercial engines, but that's what I am most experienced with. The Kohler Command series, Honda GX, Echo PAS-2620 X Series and Briggs I/C and Vanguard all had these. I like the former three engine brands than the latter Briggs though as they haven't burned me (as in failing or requiring repair) as often as the Briggs have.
I remember the old Briggs & Stratton mowers with the pulsa-jet and vaccu-jet carbs. They always took a few pulls to start up. They got so much better in later days until they started using Chinesium parts. i will try to keep my 12 year old machine going as long as possible. Gonna check my valve clearances and change the oil right now!
you're right, those plusa jet carbs and engines was a good setup
And yet my experience with Chinese Honda clones was more positive than the experience with Briggs. Heck, even Briggs embraces the Chinese Honda clones now. Then again, if you look at Kohler's engine lineup, especially its Command Pro line, it's all Honda clones now too with some differences.
I service my mower every year, valves adjustment intervals every 3-4 years on residential unit.
nice!
That's one of the best running Briggs EX engines I have heard. You do good work, might I add.
thanks and yes, I have to agree with you, it sounded great
Hi buddy, when I use my mower, I always pull it lightly to prevent the rope from snapping on me, I really care about my mower so much, these videos are so helpful😊
nice, I do the same thing. Thank you for your time in watching them too!
Anytime buddy
This is great. Usually do my maintenance once a year. Just normal maintenance and cleaning.
nice, thank you for the comment
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE and thankyou for keeping it real with the content 💯
Probably adjust the valve lash whenever the engine gets hard to start or it loses compression, change the oil once every 25 hours which is Hondas recommendation although Briggs and Stratton recommend doing it once every 50 hours.
At least check & clean the air filter between mows & replace it once every year depending upon how dusty it gets, check the spark plug once every season, clean & check its gap as necessary,I have never had to replace a Briggs and Stratton engines spark plug but I have had to replace a Honda lawnmower spark plug when it was burning a bit of oil.
Sharpen or replace the blades on your lawnmower once a year,on my Briggs and Stratton powered lawnmower the swing blades which are fitted in Australia needs to be replaced a couple of years later because they're already worn out
The swing blades hit rocks & tree roots which stick out of the front lawn so they get knocked around but they're a sacrificial item which saves the crankshaft from getting bent !
all fantastic advice!
I never had valves to mess with but after I got mine straightened out the rest wasn't often at all. Good week to you!
thank you Sir!
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE You too, pal!
As shown in this great video, the correct sequence on installing the blade is (1) Blade in correct orientation (2) the plate with the two pins and (3) install the 5/8 in bolt. I have added a lockwasher under the head of the 5/8 in bolt. This might not be necessary however I feel more confidence in having the lockwasher under the bolt head. I realize this is not the factory design, as the two pin plate should be sufficient to keep the blade bolt tight on the crankshaft. I would appreciate your comments on adding a lock washer to the assembly. The mower I am refering to is a Troy-Built with a Honda engine. Circa somewhere around 2014. Thank you for your opinion and please keep up the great videos. Herb Spencer
Thank you Herb Spencer!
I hate having to pull hard. I am getting old, so a gentle pull to start it the first time is what I want. Though my flathead Briggs Quantum doesn't need as much. Still a 1 pull mower after 11 years. I do every year though of the basics. It doesn't cost much, and the return on investment of a well-running mower is worth it. I keep debating if I want to put a battery back on my mower using a generic battery from the hardware store. But for now, pull start is good enough.
well said and yes, we're not getting stronger as the years roll by
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Sadly that is the case. The only problems I have ever had with my mower was one time the carburetor DID need cleaning and that was about 2 years ago. Just taking it off and hitting it with some carb cleaner and it's been fine since. The other are just this mower eats wheels. I am on my 3rd set of front drive wheels.
I do the maintenance every two years. My lawn is small in Florida so every two years is ok. This is about every 100 hours of operation. I do not use ethanol gas; the mower is used almost weekly. This has worked for me in the past.
I like your schedule
Good advice, nice work, The only thing I would do different is I would have changed the plug, Plugs are cheap and not worth having an issue with. I always use NGK plugs.Thanks for the video.
you make great point!
It's baffling how many times I find these engines completely neglected to the point of "I'm amazed they still run!"
Recently did a service on an MTD mower, with a Briggs 500 Series, fuel was black with the engine oil, and the muffler was actually bleeding it.
And yes, it had little engine oil in the crankcase. I was shocked at how well it ran after I did some much needed maintenance on it.
How bad can they get?! Well, I've seen some of your examples, had mine own... and know we've probably not even seen the tip of the iceberg! 🤣
Cheers! Great video!
thank you and yes you are correct, sometimes with a bit of work, they'll run like new even through the worst of it.
Current house came with a 2012 TB110 w/ a Briggs 575ex (140cc OHV) that had been obviously neglected and abused. Despite a badly bent crank and severe shaking to the point of losing several bolts (including the handle arm bolts multiple times, which the engine/blade ate at full speed) it's continued to run perfectly until it recently was replaced for the front axle height arm shaking off and being lost.
In general, small engines are so low-strung and basic that they're almost impossible to kill with any oil in them. The biggest problem with the Briggs OHV that I've seen kill them is the plastic cam lobe sleeve braking loose and shifting on the shaft, ruining timing unless the entire Cam assy is replaced.
We service our mower's like this every year, and change the oil twice a year. Little bit of time and money now saves alot down the road. Oil's cheap(ish) engines are not
wow you're doing an excellent job of keeping it going
I do my maintenance every two to three years 👍🙏👍🙏. Great job.
I like your schedule!
The one part is getting the engine back in running condition after a while since it was used especially if it is full of ethanol gas
you got that right
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE plus the mower deck is not rusted out
It's amazing how much damage a lack of maintenance can do. I had a riding mower given to me in running condition. Despite the fact that it ran when I got it, I have put $400 in parts in it so far. Nearly all of it was from a lack of maintenance, or being left outdoors. This mower continued running despite a total absence of care. Imagine what it could do if it was actually cared for.
yep I can believe it. it's always funny how someone can give a machine away as a gift, not realizing the amount of work the recipient will have to do to get it working again .
I agree it’s sickening seeing how bad they are treated when simple caring would save them hundreds or thousands 😢😢😢
The one positive is that this is a commercial grade tractor that will bring twice what I have had to put into it. I'm probably going to keep it in the permanent fleet, since I probably won't find anything better in my price range.
Finally going to try and save one of these, now I’m at the whole tear down phase, I’m just glad I have many parts to pick and choose.
The valves seem fine but there’s an exhaust leak.
Left it after I started it up and adjusted the rpm’s.. I stopped it to re start it and it misfired.
It was the engine that made me absolutely despise the new ohv Briggs engine.. now I’m determined to get it running again one way or another.
All the plastic is brand new on it is part of the reason and the deck is in great shape but it was neglected from its previous owner big time.
good luck fixing it!
My main maintenance interval on my equipment varies. I send my snow blower and lawn mowers in for a yearly service. If you went with the intervals specified in the owner's manual for my Honda mowers, it starts with checking the oil before each use. This could be weekly or since I cut the grass commercially, this could be daily. I don't check it daily but I do check it often enough, at least once or twice per week. The next "maintenance" is the air filters. On my Commercial Honda, they say every 25 to 50 hours. Recommended oil changes are once per 50 hours on my Honda trimmer and my HRX mower and about every 100 on the commercial. Of course, I try to sharpen the blades at least twice or three times a season (again, mowing commercially) and cleaning the mower decks at least once per week or when needed. Also, I prefer the two-stage air filters, the foam and pleated systems as I find only one type typically can lead to some problems.
wow I like your equipment. you're a true professional in my eyes
Yearly.. I get bored and want to keep this one for as long as possible. I was for free and runs great.
Great choice!
I recently had a friend of mine give me a Yard Machine riding mower with a locked up engine (a Briggs 15.5, I think). He said that the engine locked up while he was using it, and then he just left it sitting in his back yard for several years. The engine does not turn at all, but is full of decent looking oil. He said that he did not add it afterwards. When I removed the engine cover, I found that the starter had not disengaged, was jammed in the flywheel, and was now rusted solid in that position. I removed the starter, and it still didn't turn, but I strongly suspect that the starter was the original issue and that it is now just locked up from sitting out in the weather for years. I have dealt with rust jacked car engines before, but i have never encountered one in a lawn mower. I have plenty of ATF and Acetone on hand, but what would be the best way to go about it and try to see if is just rust jacked? I got it as a parts mower, but I have nothing to lose by at least trying to make it run again if it is possible.
I chose this video to ask my question. Mower is Snapper Model 7800981. Engine is Briggs and Stratton Model 121Q 02 0027F1.
Issue is emmission of Bluish White smoke when running. Compression reads 148psi . Carb cleaned. Engine starts first pull.
Valve lash set to .005 (wasn't off very much from new). Fuel tank and lines, carb bowl cleaned, needle and float good. New plug.
Fresh clean oil and Staybol treated fuel. Seems I am down to a blown headgasket and have that on order. I will dearly appreciate any comments you would like to make in repairing the engine to solve the smoking problem. Thank you very much as always!
Herb Spencer
sure, have you considered doing a "leak down test" to find out if there's a head gasket leak?
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I will do a leak down test prior to installing a new head gasket. However, I am seeing an oil deposit at the bottom of the cylinder head (wet, black). Since there are no other oil deposits anywhere else on the machine, I am lead towards the headgasket as that is a common B&S issue. Thank you for suggesting the leak down test as I had not thought of that.
no problem and good luck
Thank you for the video
no problem and thank you
I'd like to say that I change oil every year, but in reality, I often get lazy, and do it every other year. Air filters should be serviced (cleaned or replaced) twice a year. If you check the air filter twice yearly, you can often get away with just cleaning it by blowing it out with compressed air. Properly maintained air filters will prevent plugs from fouling and/or getting carboned up. Meaning... the plug will last many years, maybe the life of the mower.
I'd say do it yearly if you have large acreage cuz it's a significant amount of wear and tear if you have a small little front yard small being about 600 ft² or less 2 to 5 years
I would agree with you too
I tried purple power & awesome cleaners on a few oil stains in driveway (Cement)....the awesome from Dollar General worked alot better..spray let is sit 15 mins hosed off..FYI...I know you clean Epuipment & prob. get spills like me...Take it easy
thank you for sharing your experience
I have a 1979 Honda HR21 mower and a 1980s McCuloch PM610 chainsaw. I thought I was doing well by running them out of gas before storage and changing oil each year on the 4 cycle.
Never too old to learn something new. Just picked up a set of feeler guages. Thank you. What spray cleaner do you use?
no problem and I'm using Super Heavy Duty Degreaser from Harbor Freight
What do you use to clean your mowers
I use Super Heavy Duty Degreaser from Harbor Freight
We have a Troy Bilt that’s 9 years old at this point and when I went in to check the valve clearances recently, not even the .0015 in. feeler fit into the clearance which was genuinely surprising how tight they were
Edit: what do you use to lubricate the wheels/axels?
Looks like he used white lithium grease. That's what I use.
This is my mower! Or really really close. I am saving this for reference.
QUESTION : Do you have any videos on repairing the engine brake release (not sure of proper terminology - that bar you pull back before pulling the cord)?
Last week, I pulled back that bar and heard a loud snap from down near the engine. Close to broke, so need to fix it with as little money as possible.
Great video, by the way. I like how well you explain what you're doing. Will be looking for those feeler gauges next time I go to Harbor Freight.
Subscribed. Thank you!
thanks, have you confirmed what broke? I'm guessing the cable broke? if so, you can pull out both ends of the cable and then replace the with some thin wire, either for hanging pictures
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Quick response! Thanks!
I have not confirmed what broke, but the cable seems fine, though it will not move in the tube. I wd40'd it on both ends and still no movement. BUT, the snapping sound came from down near the engine. I have not been brave enough to take it all apart just yet. My goal for the day.
hope you figure it out.
Im currently working on an echo pe230 edger waiting on the fuel line kit to come in so I can replace it and get the edger running correctly
Just recently fixed and echo pb 2100 blower that had bad fuel lines on it and after i replaced them it ran like brand new
good luck to you! that's a great machine
did you do any carb work to it?
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE the echo blower I worked on needed fuel lines and one small carb ajustment the edger needs new fuel lines and lit should be running like new
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I used sea foam to make sure both the echo pb 2100 blower and the echo pe 230 edger ran before I fixed them
What octane of gas do you use for your mowers? I remember the problems that ethanol in gasoline first caused on lawn mowers years ago. I use 93 octane premium gasoline from Shell and a small amount of blue stabil mixed with the premium gas. I noticed that my lawn mower runs better with premium gas and blue stabil.
I use 89 octane most of the time, and 91 if it happens to be cheap that day
Service any mower once a year for best results. No doubt about it.
totally agree
Hey bro what's up? I was wondering if you drained the "junk fuel" from the carburetor bowl? In my opinion, it started up, ran and sound a lot better after you did the maintenance on it bro.
since I didn't touch the carb, I didn't drain any fuel. It could be because of the better air flow from the air filter
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE cool
What is the name of the cleaning product you use?
Super Heavy Duty Degreaser from Harbor Freight
I do my maintenance every 2 years.
that's a great schedule
I just checked the valve clearance on my high pressure washer, and the valves were too tight. The thing about a hp washer is when starting it has more of a drag on the engine ( even when holding the handle) than a lawnmower.
I can imagine that it would. Did you make any adjustments to the clearances?
Yes, I set them at .005”
What size and length socket do you use to take out the spark plug?
this one, I use a 16mm. not sure what standard equivalent is.
People used to consider a mower a disposable item ,they woukd kick it the curb when it quit and buy another 139 cheapie. Now those don't exist and there more interest in taking care of the one you have. 9:53
couldn't have said I better myself
How do you get your mowers so clean?
He uses a degreaser solution from Harbor Freight. Spray on, wait a little, scrub if necessary, hose off. Clean!
MixingGBP is completely correct.
Hi Eric is there a way I could send you a video of what is going on with my lawnmower?
sure homegaragemail@gmail.com
I didn't even realize that Snapper uses rebranded MTD decks.
I always thought the decks is what set them apart from the rest.
That's too bad
I really have no problem with the MTD decks but the different design decks do have occasional advantages and it's nice to be able to have more choices then sticker, engine size, side shoot or not and push, front or rear drive.
It used to be that the sticker and deck combination is what actually set them apart.
You could find any engine type with any sticker but decks used to be brand specific.
Not too disappointing with craftsman, murray, and troy bilt.
But companies like cub cadet and snapper just slapping their sticker on a product from someone else just means that much less quality in the world.
I'm just an average Joe but it must be heart breaking to people that have been in the field for years.
I know right, it seems everyone is going cheap
Couldn’t help but notice how much the plastic covers on the motor was vibrating around. Makes the motor look like it’s vibrating itself to death and apart lol. I’d say as time ages the plastic and the vibrations takes its toll, the plastic covers will eventually break, and fall off with now way of putting them back on since the tabs broke off. Makes me miss the days when they used metal. As for the valve adjustment. OHV sounds good on paper with these engines, but for a push mower engine it’s completely unnecessary. Makes me miss the days when these engines were still a flat head, valve in block style that lasted forever. There was no need for valve adjustments ever. The valves never could get out of adjustment, so it always started good, unless there was junk in the carburetor clogging the jets, but that was an easy fix. They have changed the design of these engines, to cost the user more money over the life of its use, and to cut the life of its use shorter, to require a replacement sooner. No more getting 30 years out of a push mower, now it’s more like 2 years if you’re lucky. And they’ve upped the cost of them by triple what they used to cost. I recently looked at a basic 20 inch push mower at my local home depot it was a Murray brand, and it was $299.99. I was like what the hell!? After taxes that’s gonna be over $300 for a basic 20 inch manual push mower with small wheels! That same style mower was 120 dollars I’d say less than 5 years ago. Somewhere someone messed up something, let corporate greed take over. No wonder people are now much rather look for used ones for either free or very cheap.
you make a great point, however forces outside of their control mandated the engine changes so you can't blame them
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE very true a lot of it is government requirements. Perhaps government emission standards required the change from a flat head valve in block to an OHV design, because it’s maybe slightly more efficient, the switch from metal to plastic engine covers was also a government thing, requiring mowers to weigh under a certain weight, same thing happened to riding lawn tractors. But I don’t agree with the government sticking their paws into every single aspect of the things we enjoy. The government is supposed to worry about running this country for the people, as in protecting the country and its people from things like foreign invasion, tyranny, communism, and foreign interferences, domestic and foreign terrorism. Not worry about things like emissions, and weight specs on our vehicles, and outdoor power equipment. They are supposed to worry about that stuff so the people, and its machines can be free. Let machine manufacturers be free to build machines the way they want to, not how the government wants them to. If you ask me companies being required to build their products the way the government wants them to, sounds to me like communism.
Can hitting a stump cause the engine seals to go? Both keyway 100% but still won't go. Seems like the timing is out
If the hit was strong enough sure. If it won't go, it means the problem is going to be a lot harder to find. Have you checked for the basics like spark?
I leave my mowers for Bout 2.5 years
wow!
Should change oil every 25 hours period 😊
that's the general rule
They collect lots of grass under belt cover
yes they do, a scary amount
That jiggly snap fitted cover on the top of the engine bothers me for some reason. Bad design. 🤔
yes it's done out of cost.. as long as it doesn't come off, they were good with it.
I do a tune up every year and valve clearance when the president of the united states' gets elected
interesting schedule, but I like it.
Miss your sarcastic sense of humor lol.
It depends on how I feel during the script writing but it's still here.