Pretty good... I had a Stereo System from Teufel and it was great but too big for my new house... 2 months ago I wanted to buy a new Stereo system from Teufel but the sound and build quality for 1500€ was pretty bad. Now I have a Sorround System from Bose for almost the same price and it sounds extremely nice.
Oh boy 😍 I'd have probably tried reverse engineering the entire control board and write new code for it, maybe with more functions and likely using the tv remote instead of another arduino
Great work, Just one recommendation. Why use a wake up switch? you can use pin change interrupt on the 3 main switches to wake up the board. Pin Change Interrupt work on any of this arduino pins. Pin Change Interrupt Request 0 (pins D8 to D13) Pin Change Interrupt Request 1 (pins A0 to A5) Pin Change Interrupt Request 2 (pins D0 to D7)
idk how i found your videos a while back but i just keep watching new ones and learning on old ones and the knowledge you share is incredible. a lot of your videos you can just swap out parts to do different things and do tweak them for whatever project you can think of. your videos give me so many ideas
1:01 it looks like there is already an IR receiver on the main system board. Presumably the original remote is lost :) Often, it is possible to get the IR codes online to use with IRremote. +1 on the earlier suggestion of using un-used buttons on an exiting remote or just a spare remote control. Will also get longer range (vs 100R driven directly from MCU) great videos!
Nice video... Why not just use unused buttons on an existing ir remote? I would not want an open circuit remote lying on my coffee table. Nice tip with the arduino low power. Who knew!
+GreatScott! Great... hmmm... somehow I missed that one... oh wait... I think that was the one with the LED strips behind your tv. Anyway, great videos man... keep it up. you are the highlight of my sunday evening viewing pleasure here in Boksburg, South Africa.... Shoutout to great scott! quick question, do you accept project ideas or not really? if so, where can i send it?
With a little more programming, you could use all the 3 buttons as wake-up pins. You can do the IR code sending instantly on wake-up, and go to sleep when code is sent. That way, you don't need the 4th button, and the power consumption is even smaller.
Great project. I had an idea to eliminate the need for a wake up button. As there are only 2 pins available for the Nano to use IRQ (I think I'm correct here?) Then if you link each of the 3 original pins to pin 2 with a diode on each pin, to stop current flowing from the button pins back to pin 2 and then to ground. Pressing any of the 3 buttons will connect pin 2 to ground through the button you pressed and the pull down resister. I don't know how long the Nano takes to wake, but if it isn't too long, the original button press, might be picked up by the nano before the user lets go of the button.
Why do we need NPN transistors for acting like switches in the receiver? We are talking about logic levels, not about current flow. I would connect our Arduino pins though some hundreds ohm resistor to the "open side" of the switches. Am I wrong? (Maybe using optocouplers would be an elegant solution, but that's a different story.)
Exactly what I thought. Well not exactly. I thought of two-connection switches (I have no clue what they are called) where the first connection goes to the designated input of the Arduino and the other connection goes to the interrupt
I was just thinking about making something like this last week. but instead of making a remote I would take the output of another remote to get the hexadecimal code for the receiver. I'm sure everybody has a remote laying around that doesn't control anything. also what about adding RF capability to the remote? that would be quite interesting.
Please make a video explaining how to make an H-bridge. It is something that I have been trying to do for a very long time but you do the best at explaining these things.
You should have used DPDT momentary switches so that you can use the second pole to connect and disconnect the "sleep". So you could press any button to wake it up and then press it again and it'd send a command... yet that's not really a much better design, I thought it was a good idea.
Couldn't you configure it to use the default audio subsystem controls on your universal remote? I understand the cool factor of making your own remote, it just seems more logical to me, to use a common standard as reference so any universal remote will work.
+GreatScott! You could easily use pin change interrupt for waking up the atmega328p with the buttons you already had. There's no really need for an dedicated for wake up button.
Great as always! But: 1. I've used the unused buttons of other remote controllers for my projects, so you don't need to built a remote or carry one with you which decreases the probability of it getting lost! 2. You could use the PCINT function of the ATmega328 instead of that fourth button. Look at its datasheet for more info. 3. You didn't need the transistors. Just make the output of the 328's pin low. 4. With the help of 3 diodes (1n4748) you could disconnect the ground from your microcontroller in the remote and connect the power to it only when a button is pressed. So, zero power when standby = theoretically infinite battery life!
Masoud Gheysari Realy? Do we mean the same? do you disconnect the power from the microcontroller ? i have an arduino nano and it takes ~1,5 seconds until the code is running but i am learing on arduino since this year ^^
Wow, I just stumbled upon this channel! I want to thank you for rekindling my interest in creating my own pcbs. It's been years since I've done projects such as these. You have me hooked again.
Du kannst bei der Fernbedienung zum Aufwecken den pin-change-interrupt verwenden. bei den meisten 'Megas hat jeder Pin den PCINT und der funktioniert auch im power-down mode (tiefster Schlafmodus) damit kannst du dir den 'Weck'-Knopf sparen
You're videoes really are inspiring, ive watched youre videoes for a while now and i see that we think in a very similar fashion. Today the sharging port on my phone broke and i did not come up with a good way to fix it, so i used a TP4056 micro USB battery charger that i clued to a peace of plywood, fitted that with some wires as contacts and now i charge one battery out of two so i can use my phone as i come up with a more permanent selution. Thank you, i would not have had the knolage or the TP4056 if i havent startet watching you'r videoes
Your videos are obviously popular now, and for good reasons. But I expect them to become references for a long long time. I mean I still go back to some Afrotechmods videos after all these years if I forget some details. Keep it up friend! Your work is of high quality, very intructive, and it's inspiring.
Awesome! However when I saw the mictocontroller I couldn't help but wonder how could one extract code from that and possibly reverse-engineer the original IR commands. Any ideas?
The NPN BJTs are not necessary. Since the supply voltage comes from the same source, they have the same 5v and gnd. So you could directly connect the pins to the arduino pins with a pullup resistor.
I'd do a slight mod of the transmitter - by adding diodes to the 3 switches you can avoid the wakeup button. The atmega wakes up fast enough to detect the button no problem. And you can do the transmitter and receiver by ATtiny, saving clovk circuitry and power ;)
As always a really great video. Wouldn't it be possible to read the binary from the AT89 and read out the literals for IR-codes? Or are the lockbits set?
Great little project Scott, a practical use for diy electronics and Arduino! Maybe as a follow up video some time - you could look (review) into using an online PCB supplier and create a smaller remote setup and then also design and print a case with Tinkercad/123D etc and your delta printer? A tech smorgasbord of a follow up video!?!
no need to add pull up/down resistors on your remote. Put the buttons from IO pin to ground, and set the io pins to INPUT_PULLUP instead of INPUT to use the Atmel processor's internal 40k pulluip.
Keysight MSO X 3054T Oscilloscope worth about 15.000$ in amateur lab. Well I'm impressed! BTW. Your videos are very interesting, fresh look on usual things.
Thumbs up for the video type variety! Wow, what a coincidence! I just pulled a 65 inch tv out of the trash. Unsurprisingly, the remote was not with it and a replacement is outrageously expensive. Unfortunately, this hack will not work as very few of the functions are laid out on the tv itself. Could you have used an attiny instead of the pro mini? Dan
I think you could have solved it without the fourth button. Two ideas that popped into my mind immediately: 1) Use Pin Change Interrupt (if the library supports it) 2) polling the buttons takes only a few microseconds. On another project of mine, in the loop, I simply slept for 1ms or so (maybe even up to 5ms) and then polled the buttons. I don't remember the exact current draw anymore, but it was around a few micro amps. Because the human reaction time (which I let my friends try ;) ) is at maximum 10ms, polling every 1ms is more than enough for reaction time. (I also used direct port manipulation to read the pins, because it saves sooo much time (and therefore power) in comparison to digitalRead) Option number two would probably be the best solution, depending on power draw.
Have you considered making your own pcb for these more permanent projects that you interact with daily? That would reduce the size of your circuit, reduce error, and add to the over all aesthetic value of the end product.
On the transmitter, you could eliminate the pull down resistors by using the Arduino's internal pull-ups and having the switch pull to ground. That's how I do it anyway.
Awesome video as always , if it were me I would probably replace the main atmel on the control board, looks like that is just reading the buttons and the infrared and feed a pwm or two, then you would be able to use any kind of transmitter you want :)
Lucas Hartmann I posted a comment about linking the three pins to pin 2 via a diode on each pin. I can't see why it wouldn't work. I'm tempted to pull out my project box and rig up the circuit to give it a try. I just have other stuff I should be doing instead of playing with my toys.
Use arduino's pin change interrupt instead to give you access to wake the arduino on many more digital pins playground.arduino.cc/Main/PinChangeInterrupt
Gud Arbeit!! AT 89C51 is a classic; normally you find aknock off or de-branded versions of 8051 Did you try to replace existing AT 8051 MC? It is not a DSP controller, so its job is to capture IR remote signal and handle tactile switches. Since you are using an Arduino based controller you could have entirely used the MC for all the operation
Nice but I think that waking up the CPU of you remote controller can be done without extra button "wake-up". I solved it in my project by connecting all available buttons to some Interrupt pin (lets assume that you configure this interrupt at pin value change, set this pin as input and pull down to 0). As far as I remember wake up from power saving mode can be configured by external interrupt so just single press of any button will wake cpu up and more you can put in this interrupt a procedure to detect which button was pressed without doing it in main loop. And even more I think that with such solution you can put CPU to sleep straight away after a signal was sent without any special delay, this would extend battery life cycle significantly.
this video is nice but I have a question how to make a homemade powerful subwoofer 2.1 home theater with simple circuit and how make a large loud home theater? please make a video about it.
I think you could do it without transistors. When you connect your controller to common ground, simply setting pins low could do the trick. I'd only add some resistors for safety.
Why not hook up the 3 buttons on the interrupt pins (with wake up in sleep mode capibility)? So you don't need an extra button solely to wake up the processor.
Some suggestions: Instead of a 8 bit AVR why not use those super cheap PIC or ST microcontroller. Another way is to use a existing remote and reverse engineer it and program the receiver accordingly. Power consumption can be lowered with a slower clock speed. You might want to try that on the AVR.
GreatScott!, your sound system has already an IR receiver , why not simply clone the native remote it came with, lets say for example its original remote broke... It would have been easier for most people to clone the broked remote. So it would have been a project that would have saved a lot of people. Great video as always ;)
You're great indeed which I love to support but find it difficult understand you I don't know if you're only showing us what you've done or teaching us ignorance.
Instead of adding another button you could just connect every button to atmega INT0 pin. This should be working even better because this way you can wake atmega only for transmitting then sleep again.
My experience has been if you send a company an email asking for technical detail on a subject, usually they happily give you the information. Have you tried emailing Teufel regarding the IR codes for your model speaker?
MrAnima If the engineers didnt disable it you could dump the hex data and decompile it into assembly and work with assembly. It is also possible to reverse engineer the circuite and sniff on protocals like i2c or spi if present with a logic analyzer.
hi thanks for this information your videos are so helpful. I wonder if you can do a video about wireless control like RC helicopter and explain how does it works and how can we expend it's range.
Wouldn't be easier to build a remote that transfer the actual codes for the actual board? A little bit of investigation could give you the actual codes for the remote, any way, it's a great way to learn how to create a remote for anything, maybe for previous projects on this channel? Would be nice to watch, adding a remote to, maybe, the 5x5x5 cube display, or the fm radio
And for the excess power consumption, you could possibly use the EXT interrupt to wake up without a button to "turn on" the remote maybe with a diode between the button and the EXT pin
Please make video about Sealed Lead-Acid batteries. Do they need over - charging/discharging protection and which one would you reccomend for 6V battery.Please tell something more about this batteries. :)
Lead-Acid batteries are typically available in 12 or 24 volt varieties, but you can buy them in 6v versions. They are also quite a large and heavy battery so I wouldn't bother unless they are going into a device that can move itself. However, to answer your first question; No, they do not need a protection circuit and are quite forgiving.
do you think you'd ever be willing to do a video on how to lay solder traces like you do on your perf boards? i've been trying it for awhile but i can't seem to get it right, they always overflow and make a mess.
This is impressive, but since the unit already had an IR receiver, wouldn't it be cheaper and easier to just buy a replacement remote? Still, I love the idea, it would be very useful for devices that don't have any remote control at all.
I once connected the next button like in this video but without any code. So any IR signal would skip the track. I was skipping tracks with my lighter, everyone thought it's magic!
thank you very much!!!, i always wanted to see an aplication of low power mode of arduino!!!, with this example is very clear and it's a good start point to do another things!!
I had to watch it twice to get that you LOST the original remote. I have the same speaker setup with a working remote so I got totally confused. I thought about doing something similar, but I like to ad Wifi with an ESP8266 to my Teufel speakers.
Wow, I couldn't believe my eyes when you opened the subwoffer and the atmel was socketed
Well Teufel is a german company :D
+Jonas Meyer Still not as good as they were 10 years ago.
Pretty good... I had a Stereo System from Teufel and it was great but too big for my new house... 2 months ago I wanted to buy a new Stereo system from Teufel but the sound and build quality for 1500€ was pretty bad. Now I have a Sorround System from Bose for almost the same price and it sounds extremely nice.
teufel audio is no cheaposhit ;) you get pretty much for what you pay !
Oh boy 😍 I'd have probably tried reverse engineering the entire control board and write new code for it, maybe with more functions and likely using the tv remote instead of another arduino
In 100 years great Scott will still use the remote with the same battery
and same speaker system...
4:13 In which universe 'couple of years' is 125.6 years?
This is voiding your warranty with style
Style is an understatement
Great work, Just one recommendation. Why use a wake up switch? you can use pin change interrupt on the 3 main switches to wake up the board.
Pin Change Interrupt work on any of this arduino pins.
Pin Change Interrupt Request 0 (pins D8 to D13)
Pin Change Interrupt Request 1 (pins A0 to A5)
Pin Change Interrupt Request 2 (pins D0 to D7)
idk how i found your videos a while back but i just keep watching new ones and learning on old ones and the knowledge you share is incredible. a lot of your videos you can just swap out parts to do different things and do tweak them for whatever project you can think of. your videos give me so many ideas
Awesome ;-)
1:01 it looks like there is already an IR receiver on the main system board. Presumably the original remote is lost :)
Often, it is possible to get the IR codes online to use with IRremote.
+1 on the earlier suggestion of using un-used buttons on an exiting remote or just a spare remote control. Will also get longer range (vs 100R driven directly from MCU)
great videos!
Nice video... Why not just use unused buttons on an existing ir remote? I would not want an open circuit remote lying on my coffee table. Nice tip with the arduino low power. Who knew!
I already used your described approach in a previous video. I wanted to do something different.
+GreatScott! Great... hmmm... somehow I missed that one... oh wait... I think that was the one with the LED strips behind your tv. Anyway, great videos man... keep it up. you are the highlight of my sunday evening viewing pleasure here in Boksburg, South Africa.... Shoutout to great scott! quick question, do you accept project ideas or not really? if so, where can i send it?
Joachim Prinsloo
You can put your ideas in the comment section. If I like them I put them on my to do list.
+GreatScott! awesome! Will do so. cheers!
+GreatScott! You should 3d print a case for the remote board
I dont always get what this guy is talking about , but I cant help but watching ......
Same
I am ashamed to say that I am an electrician but microcontroller stuff is beyond me :P
+danijel124 I understand microcotrollers but when he starts talking about maths I get very confused.
So why you don't always get what this guy is talking about? Because of his stupid English pronounce or because you are too stupid for electronics?
LUL
With a little more programming, you could use all the 3 buttons as wake-up pins. You can do the IR code sending instantly on wake-up, and go to sleep when code is sent. That way, you don't need the 4th button, and the power consumption is even smaller.
Recently I think about remote turning off lights in my bedroom,fortunately you give me this video. Thank you very much Scott!!!
Great project. I had an idea to eliminate the need for a wake up button.
As there are only 2 pins available for the Nano to use IRQ (I think I'm correct here?) Then if you link each of the 3 original pins to pin 2 with a diode on each pin, to stop current flowing from the button pins back to pin 2 and then to ground. Pressing any of the 3 buttons will connect pin 2 to ground through the button you pressed and the pull down resister.
I don't know how long the Nano takes to wake, but if it isn't too long, the original button press, might be picked up by the nano before the user lets go of the button.
Why do we need NPN transistors for acting like switches in the receiver? We are talking about logic levels, not about current flow. I would connect our Arduino pins though some hundreds ohm resistor to the "open side" of the switches. Am I wrong? (Maybe using optocouplers would be an elegant solution, but that's a different story.)
Hmm.. Connect all the buttons with diodes to the wake up pin, and lose the wake up button?
Possible
Petteri Kähärä Pin change interrupts. No need to bother with a separate wakeup switch for this, then you can just put it immediately to sleep.
A Tesla coil would not work as a reliable, low-powered remote, running from a button cell...
Exactly what I thought. Well not exactly. I thought of two-connection switches (I have no clue what they are called) where the first connection goes to the designated input of the Arduino and the other connection goes to the interrupt
Yeah that's actually a really good idea
I was just thinking about making something like this last week. but instead of making a remote I would take the output of another remote to get the hexadecimal code for the receiver. I'm sure everybody has a remote laying around that doesn't control anything. also what about adding RF capability to the remote? that would be quite interesting.
I was wondering about making a programmable universal remote.
First, I'm jealous of the time you have to do these things And second You're my hero.
Please make a video explaining how to make an H-bridge. It is something that I have been trying to do for a very long time but you do the best at explaining these things.
I wouldn't mind doing one. But for the meantime check out Afrotechmods channel. He has a very good video about H-bridges.
+GreatScott! don't be afraid to double up on others content. you have an interesting perspective!
So the battery would last longer than the remote🤔🤔🤔🤔
You should have used DPDT momentary switches so that you can use the second pole to connect and disconnect the "sleep". So you could press any button to wake it up and then press it again and it'd send a command... yet that's not really a much better design, I thought it was a good idea.
Great project. I particularly like the wake up button.
Couldn't you configure it to use the default audio subsystem controls on your universal remote? I understand the cool factor of making your own remote, it just seems more logical to me, to use a common standard as reference so any universal remote will work.
More advanced than my last project. I like deep sleep mode as well! Awesome again +GreatScott!
+GreatScott! You could easily use pin change interrupt for waking up the atmega328p with the buttons you already had. There's no really need for an dedicated for wake up button.
Great as always! But:
1. I've used the unused buttons of other remote controllers for my projects, so you don't need to built a remote or carry one with you which decreases the probability of it getting lost!
2. You could use the PCINT function of the ATmega328 instead of that fourth button. Look at its datasheet for more info.
3. You didn't need the transistors. Just make the output of the 328's pin low.
4. With the help of 3 diodes (1n4748) you could disconnect the ground from your microcontroller in the remote and connect the power to it only when a button is pressed. So, zero power when standby = theoretically infinite battery life!
Masoud Gheysari 1. He shows how to create a IR remote of course you can use another 2. The Mikrocontroller takes a couple of seconds to star
Asdffghjkl Lkjhgfdsa 2. No. It's at most 65ms. It can be easily decreased to less than 1ms.
Masoud Gheysari Realy? Do we mean the same? do you disconnect the power from the microcontroller ? i have an arduino nano and it takes ~1,5 seconds until the code is running but i am learing on arduino since this year ^^
Seems like a good hack for things that did not come with a remote as well as things with missing remotes
Wow, I just stumbled upon this channel! I want to thank you for rekindling my interest in creating my own pcbs. It's been years since I've done projects such as these. You have me hooked again.
Du kannst bei der Fernbedienung zum Aufwecken den pin-change-interrupt verwenden. bei den meisten 'Megas hat jeder Pin den PCINT und der funktioniert auch im power-down mode (tiefster Schlafmodus)
damit kannst du dir den 'Weck'-Knopf sparen
You're videoes really are inspiring, ive watched youre videoes for a while now and i see that we think in a very similar fashion. Today the sharging port on my phone broke and i did not come up with a good way to fix it, so i used a TP4056 micro USB battery charger that i clued to a peace of plywood, fitted that with some wires as contacts and now i charge one battery out of two so i can use my phone as i come up with a more permanent selution. Thank you, i would not have had the knolage or the TP4056 if i havent startet watching you'r videoes
Since speaker system already has avr microcontroller, I would get the assembly from the mcu and reprogram to work it with custom ir codes as well.
Your videos are obviously popular now, and for good reasons. But I expect them to become references for a long long time. I mean I still go back to some Afrotechmods videos after all these years if I forget some details. Keep it up friend! Your work is of high quality, very intructive, and it's inspiring.
Awesome! However when I saw the mictocontroller I couldn't help but wonder how could one extract code from that and possibly reverse-engineer the original IR commands. Any ideas?
That was very intersting! I'm not an electronics engineer, but easyEDA is the disclosure for me. Thanks for video :)
The NPN BJTs are not necessary. Since the supply voltage comes from the same source, they have the same 5v and gnd. So you could directly connect the pins to the arduino pins with a pullup resistor.
I'd do a slight mod of the transmitter - by adding diodes to the 3 switches you can avoid the wakeup button. The atmega wakes up fast enough to detect the button no problem. And you can do the transmitter and receiver by ATtiny, saving clovk circuitry and power ;)
you can use your input control switches to wakeup the atmel.. with 3x 1N4148 diodes as an OR gate to your wakeup input.
As always a really great video. Wouldn't it be possible to read the binary from the AT89 and read out the literals for IR-codes? Or are the lockbits set?
Alternatively, reprogram the '89
Also, you can check the PRR to reduce power usage when your processor is at running state.
Cool mixing of technologies. Wonderful.
Great little project Scott, a practical use for diy electronics and Arduino!
Maybe as a follow up video some time - you could look (review) into using an online PCB supplier and create a smaller remote setup and then also design and print a case with Tinkercad/123D etc and your delta printer? A tech smorgasbord of a follow up video!?!
no need to add pull up/down resistors on your remote. Put the buttons from IO pin to ground, and set the io pins to INPUT_PULLUP instead of INPUT to use the Atmel processor's internal 40k pulluip.
I do love your step by step explanation which is exactly my style! Thanks for great effort.
I can see your style of soldering is compatible with a trackless PCB
i not skilled in this field but enjoyed ur vid & i learned something! thankyou for sharing. 👍
Keysight MSO X 3054T Oscilloscope worth about 15.000$ in amateur lab. Well I'm impressed!
BTW. Your videos are very interesting, fresh look on usual things.
Thanks mate ;-)
Thumbs up for the video type variety!
Wow, what a coincidence! I just pulled a 65 inch tv out of the trash. Unsurprisingly, the remote was not with it and a replacement is outrageously expensive. Unfortunately, this hack will not work as very few of the functions are laid out on the tv itself.
Could you have used an attiny instead of the pro mini?
Dan
I think you could have solved it without the fourth button.
Two ideas that popped into my mind immediately:
1) Use Pin Change Interrupt (if the library supports it)
2) polling the buttons takes only a few microseconds. On another project of mine, in the loop, I simply slept for 1ms or so (maybe even up to 5ms) and then polled the buttons.
I don't remember the exact current draw anymore, but it was around a few micro amps.
Because the human reaction time (which I let my friends try ;) ) is at maximum 10ms, polling every 1ms is more than enough for reaction time.
(I also used direct port manipulation to read the pins, because it saves sooo much time (and therefore power) in comparison to digitalRead)
Option number two would probably be the best solution, depending on power draw.
Have you considered making your own pcb for these more permanent projects that you interact with daily? That would reduce the size of your circuit, reduce error, and add to the over all aesthetic value of the end product.
On the transmitter, you could eliminate the pull down resistors by using the Arduino's internal pull-ups and having the switch pull to ground. That's how I do it anyway.
1:28 Note Gate Resistor, Base current limiter resistor :D
You can eliminate the remote's pull down resistors by inverting the inputs and using the built it pull-up
Mr.. will you create a case for this peace of art? what's next with this project ?
Awesome video as always , if it were me I would probably replace the main atmel on the control board, looks like that is just reading the buttons and the infrared and feed a pwm or two, then you would be able to use any kind of transmitter you want :)
Great work, now you just need a case for the remote.... or it will look like one of my projects!
Can you add learning function to add new remote buttons function with the help of ir reciver and extra switch as well
Well done with the low-power lib. Can't you attach interrupts to all 3 switches, though?
No, the Nano and Uno only allow interrupts on pins 2 & 3.
Then maybe one switch to each interrupt, and the other switch via diodes to both interrupts?
Lucas Hartmann
I posted a comment about linking the three pins to pin 2 via a diode on each pin. I can't see why it wouldn't work. I'm tempted to pull out my project box and rig up the circuit to give it a try. I just have other stuff I should be doing instead of playing with my toys.
+Maxx B Just remembered, we could arrange the switches in a 3x1 matrix (instead of the usual 4x3 matrix), and use the 1 as the interrupt pin.
Use arduino's pin change interrupt instead to give you access to wake the arduino on many more digital pins
playground.arduino.cc/Main/PinChangeInterrupt
Gud Arbeit!! AT 89C51 is a classic; normally you find aknock off or de-branded versions of 8051
Did you try to replace existing AT 8051 MC? It is not a DSP controller, so its job is to capture IR remote signal and handle tactile switches. Since you are using an Arduino based controller you could have entirely used the MC for all the operation
Nice but I think that waking up the CPU of you remote controller can be done without extra button "wake-up". I solved it in my project by connecting all available buttons to some Interrupt pin (lets assume that you configure this interrupt at pin value change, set this pin as input and pull down to 0). As far as I remember wake up from power saving mode can be configured by external interrupt so just single press of any button will wake cpu up and more you can put in this interrupt a procedure to detect which button was pressed without doing it in main loop. And even more I think that with such solution you can put CPU to sleep straight away after a signal was sent without any special delay, this would extend battery life cycle significantly.
can you also use a attiny 45/85 for the resever/transmitter
Another nice HACKED project... GreatJobMan
this video is nice but I have a question how to make a homemade powerful subwoofer 2.1 home theater with simple circuit and how make a large loud home theater? please make a video about it.
Missed the polishing: print a housing for the remote control with 3D printer.
I think you could do it without transistors. When you connect your controller to common ground, simply setting pins low could do the trick. I'd only add some resistors for safety.
I have heard that if you are early enough great Scott will reply
Lies!
It's all lies!!!!!
LIES
+GreatScott! Yeah sometimes.
I just saw this comment on Grant's new video.......
It will be great for my new boom box i made.
It was inspired by one you made.I have a problem with buttons they don't work when radio warms up.
Why not hook up the 3 buttons on the interrupt pins (with wake up in sleep mode capibility)? So you don't need an extra button solely to wake up the processor.
Some suggestions: Instead of a 8 bit AVR why not use those super cheap PIC or ST microcontroller. Another way is to use a existing remote and reverse engineer it and program the receiver accordingly. Power consumption can be lowered with a slower clock speed. You might want to try that on the AVR.
If you choose to go to AVR route, why not instead use a ATTINY. They are cheaper and they suit this application more.
GreatScott!, your sound system has already an IR receiver , why not simply clone the native remote it came with, lets say for example its original remote broke... It would have been easier for most people to clone the broked remote. So it would have been a project that would have saved a lot of people.
Great video as always ;)
Very helpful video Thanks. Would it be possible to connect the wake up pin to each button so that only one button press is needed ?
you have to upload the bootloader if you want to use atmega 32p microcontroller
You're great indeed which I love to support but find it difficult understand you I don't know if you're only showing us what you've done or teaching us ignorance.
Where do you get your jumper wires? The look sturdy
Instead of adding another button you could just connect every button to atmega INT0 pin. This should be working even better because this way you can wake atmega only for transmitting then sleep again.
You could use inbuilt pullup resistors and saved some soldering : )
hi in this part of the code : irsend.sendNEC (0x34895725, 32); what is 32 standing for?
i usually finish watching these videos wondering how to hell he does all this
Klasse Videos. Sehr lehrreich und dabei entstehen immer tolle Geräte, weiter so.
Cool video! Can you move the IR transmitter LED to a different pin? If so, how? I don't see where you can define a pin number.
My experience has been if you send a company an email asking for technical detail on a subject, usually they happily give you the information. Have you tried emailing Teufel regarding the IR codes for your model speaker?
Why did you used a pro mini and not a nano?
Yayyyy your just like me! We both have melted sockets on our breadboards!
Why don't you use the original ATmega op de board en reprogramming that? It was only a dual layer board, so not hard to reengineer!?!
Looks more like a one layer board and im not so sure how hard it would be. Definitly not impossible but not really a easy hack.
'op de'.. DUTCH
Before modifying the code you need to find it online.
MrAnima If the engineers didnt disable it you could dump the hex data and decompile it into assembly and work with assembly. It is also possible to reverse engineer the circuite and sniff on protocals like i2c or spi if present with a logic analyzer.
***** Yes, thats what I should do.
That's a nice video
Where did you attend college and what did you study? I'm very curious. You seem very well educated!
Stay creative and I will watch you next time... (y) :P
Is this your "home" lab or are you filming this in a more corporate kind of laboratory? That scope looks damn fine... ;)
hi
thanks for this information
your videos are so helpful.
I wonder if you can do a video about wireless control like RC helicopter and explain how does it works and how can we expend it's range.
best video in a long while! keep up the great work! :)
Thats a really smart idea. Maybe use flexible filament to make squishy buttons?
Of course, it is good to make the transmitter, but you can always buy a small premade one.
Wouldn't be easier to build a remote that transfer the actual codes for the actual board? A little bit of investigation could give you the actual codes for the remote, any way, it's a great way to learn how to create a remote for anything, maybe for previous projects on this channel? Would be nice to watch, adding a remote to, maybe, the 5x5x5 cube display, or the fm radio
And for the excess power consumption, you could possibly use the EXT interrupt to wake up without a button to "turn on" the remote maybe with a diode between the button and the EXT pin
Gate resistors on a bipolar transistors? :- Nice video as always :-)
Another great scott project...rock on dude
Please make video about Sealed Lead-Acid batteries. Do they need over - charging/discharging protection and which one would you reccomend for 6V battery.Please tell something more about this batteries. :)
Lead-Acid batteries are typically available in 12 or 24 volt varieties, but you can buy them in 6v versions. They are also quite a large and heavy battery so I wouldn't bother unless they are going into a device that can move itself. However, to answer your first question; No, they do not need a protection circuit and are quite forgiving.
do you think you'd ever be willing to do a video on how to lay solder traces like you do on your perf boards? i've been trying it for awhile but i can't seem to get it right, they always overflow and make a mess.
how to use crystal oscillator ,and how to know does it work,and what are the electric calculation of oscillators
This is impressive, but since the unit already had an IR receiver, wouldn't it be cheaper and easier to just buy a replacement remote? Still, I love the idea, it would be very useful for devices that don't have any remote control at all.
As a sleep button you can use all three buttons. They are double. I think, you must not rewrite your program :-)
I once connected the next button like in this video but without any code. So any IR signal would skip the track. I was skipping tracks with my lighter, everyone thought it's magic!
Scott...this may be a worn out question but I will ask anyway. What kind of microphone do you use when recording? Your audio is excellent!
t.bone SC440
thank you very much!!!, i always wanted to see an aplication of low power mode of arduino!!!, with this example is very clear and it's a good start point to do another things!!
GreatScott - Can you please make a video about project with ESP8266 based Universal IR Remote for various equipment ?
I had to watch it twice to get that you LOST the original remote. I have the same speaker setup with a working remote so I got totally confused. I thought about doing something similar, but I like to ad Wifi with an ESP8266 to my Teufel speakers.