The plastic is about 0.5mm thick in this area. I was able to cut it out easily with the sharp tip of a hot soldering iron set to about 350 degrees C. I cut through the top, left and bottom sides first, then part way through the right side and levered it open with a screw driver. I just gently ran the tip of the iron along the lines several times going a little deeper each time. It helped having the battery secured in a clamp to hold it steady. I would recommend this approach if you have a fine tipped soldering iron because you can do it in a controlled manner with little risk of mechanical damage to the connecting wires. It's easy enough to clean the tip afterwards, or use an older tip that's passed its best for soldering purposes.
I actually use a lipo balancing charger that I used for my other hobby batteries and it had that little plug where it just balanced all the batteries at the same time.
@@urielgutierrez6478 You got to understand how professional hobby chargers work along with multiple balancing boards and cables. I can damn near charge any type of battery as long as I know what it's made out of.
Nice video. What a pain in the ass right? My batteries wont even turn on. Did you have to hack into the battery with software at all or did just balancing the voltage on each do the trick? So you set your buck for 4.29v at 2000mA? What’s the lowest current tou think it will trickle charge at? Or do you think it needs about 2A to work? Thanks so much!
Instead of using a charging board to get the cells to match, would it be possible to connect load (such as a lightbulb) to the cells with the higher voltages to bring them down to that of the cell(s) with the lower voltage? Thank you
Awesome video!! I have a totally different problem (16 flashes when charger is plugged in) battery won't charge. The access port thing is a HUGE timesaver and I won't wreck the stinking case trying a few things to see what's going on. You mentioned the wires going to the four LEDs (which they don't) *I think*. but they actually go to the control board and are used for the control board to balance charge the cells. the control board controls the LEDs aside from these 4 wires. Anyhow That's how I think they work and that what I think you actually meant. I'm not trying to correct you but I'm trying to be corrected if I may be completely wrong. Mine is just an old test battery that stopped working, no plans to actually fly it as it was having balance issues taht I could see in the app before it stopped working entirely after a few months of storage. I'm more curious than anything why it died and what the 16 flashes crap is all about and won't be repairing it to fly. But I liked having it for a bench test battery when it was working.
The LEDS are the indicators of the state of the balance board. You do not balance the batteries through the plug with the wires that go up to the LEDS/balance board. That’s why I just said LEDS. In this case, the batteries are hooked up individually directly to a charger. You are simply bypassing the balance board.
@@199wildman My understanding - when you unplug the connector you now have what we will refer as TWO sets of wires. With the connector open- one set goes to the balance/control board which also controls the four LEDs. the other set of wires goes directly to the three cells.
At 2:20 you say "this is the balancing port, these wires go to the indicator lights here". (you probably meant the board) which also contains those lights.
Anyhow I'm not trying to nitpick or correct I was trying to make sure I did not have an incorrect understanding by going over it. I really like the access cutout idea.. And it saves me from busting an entire battery open to try this.
Do you have a link to a connector that I could buy which would connect into the battery’s BSM, ideally with all the wires instead of just 2? I know that I’d have to be very careful not to short out any of the cells. I don’t know exactly what to search for to make sure that I get the right connector type and right size. Thank you
Old Git with new tech This will work Dmyond 4A DC to DC Automatic Adjustable Boost Converter Buck Converter Step UP Step Down Module Voltage Regulator 5.5-30V to 0.5-30V with LCD Display www.amazon.com/dp/B07XFL78Q6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DqpOEbXR2J7SB
Has anyone had any issues with the battery no longer being charged through the Mavic charger or no longer output voltage because the balance cable was temporarily removed ? Some Mavic Flyer threads claim one of the chips disables the batteries normal input/output if the balance lead is disconnected. From this video it seems that is not the case.
Michael Allred yes. Just make sure when charging the dead cell that it is not completely shorted out when charging. You should see the amp output drop when charging. If not the battery is to far gone.
Do you think it would be possible to swap out the three cells once they get too old to fly? I just realised that DJI doesn't produce these batteries anymore
@@ocanehauncanedichieilcane Inside the battery case is a bms curcuit. Once this is removed to put new cells in the board bricks itself. Its a constantly live pack! (On all the time). I programmed non dji battery and use my own model batteries, from hobby shops.
The plastic is about 0.5mm thick in this area.
I was able to cut it out easily with the sharp tip of a hot soldering iron set to about 350 degrees C.
I cut through the top, left and bottom sides first, then part way through the right side and levered it open with a screw driver.
I just gently ran the tip of the iron along the lines several times going a little deeper each time. It helped having the battery secured in a clamp to hold it steady.
I would recommend this approach if you have a fine tipped soldering iron because you can do it in a controlled manner with little risk of mechanical damage to the connecting wires. It's easy enough to clean the tip afterwards, or use an older tip that's passed its best for soldering purposes.
Great video. I'll be passing this on to my brother who's got a problem similar to your discription. Thanks.😁
Excellent vid clear instructions. Did the same on one of mine 1cell out of balance, battery good as new. 👍👍👍
I actually use a lipo balancing charger that I used for my other hobby batteries and it had that little plug where it just balanced all the batteries at the same time.
Can you link which one you bought? Trying to do the same.
@@fleshnbone831 My charger came with all kinds of balancing connectors that charges various types of LiPO batteries.
From dji? How much was the lipo charger? Looking at Amazon
@@urielgutierrez6478 You got to understand how professional hobby chargers work along with multiple balancing boards and cables. I can damn near charge any type of battery as long as I know what it's made out of.
Do you have a link to the lipo balancing charger or a name and model or any clue as how we can find it? Thanks!
Hi William! great video!! once cells are balanced, do you use the original charger? or can it be used? thanks!!
incuf once they are balanced, I just use the original charger till they fail again.
I have finally found a 4 Pin Plug to simplify the charging balancing process. Affiliate link in the description.
Nice video. What a pain in the ass right? My batteries wont even turn on. Did you have to hack into the battery with software at all or did just balancing the voltage on each do the trick? So you set your buck for 4.29v at 2000mA? What’s the lowest current tou think it will trickle charge at? Or do you think it needs about 2A to work? Thanks so much!
Instead of using a charging board to get the cells to match, would it be possible to connect load (such as a lightbulb) to the cells with the higher voltages to bring them down to that of the cell(s) with the lower voltage?
Thank you
Edward Hodson Yes, but only if the lower voltage is above 2.8 volts. Any lower is dangerous.
Great job thks
Awesome video!! I have a totally different problem (16 flashes when charger is plugged in) battery won't charge.
The access port thing is a HUGE timesaver and I won't wreck the stinking case trying a few things to see what's going on.
You mentioned the wires going to the four LEDs (which they don't) *I think*. but they actually go to the control board and are used
for the control board to balance charge the cells.
the control board controls the LEDs aside from these 4 wires.
Anyhow That's how I think they work and that what I think you actually meant.
I'm not trying to correct you but I'm trying to be corrected if I may be completely wrong.
Mine is just an old test battery that stopped working, no plans to actually fly it as it was having balance issues taht I could see in the app before it stopped working entirely after a few months of storage. I'm more curious than anything why it died and what the 16 flashes crap is all about and won't be repairing it to fly. But I liked having it for a bench test battery when it was working.
The LEDS are the indicators of the state of the balance board. You do not balance the batteries through the plug with the wires that go up to the LEDS/balance board. That’s why I just said LEDS. In this case, the batteries are hooked up individually directly to a charger. You are simply bypassing the balance board.
@@199wildman My understanding - when you unplug the connector you now have what we will refer as TWO sets of wires.
With the connector open- one set goes to the balance/control board which also controls the four LEDs. the other set of wires goes directly to the three cells.
At 2:20 you say "this is the balancing port, these wires go to the indicator lights here". (you probably meant the board) which also contains those lights.
Anyhow I'm not trying to nitpick or correct I was trying to make sure I did not have an incorrect understanding by going over it. I really like the access cutout idea..
And it saves me from busting an entire battery open to try this.
Great job!
I got a pair batteries with the same issue.
How much would you charge to fix them and where should I mail them?
Mailing batteries isn’t cheap. If your local to Springfield Ohio I could fix them for $10 each.
I’m getting battery error in one drone but the same battery in my other drone works fine could the battery board be the issue?
Do you have a link to a connector that I could buy which would connect into the battery’s BSM, ideally with all the wires instead of just 2?
I know that I’d have to be very careful not to short out any of the cells.
I don’t know exactly what to search for to make sure that I get the right connector type and right size.
Thank you
Edward Hodson No idea. I just had a random plug from a micro switch I cut. Sorry
Thanks William... I’ll start checking out some some old electronics around the house to steal from :)
4 pin plug. amzn.to/3qIn1bL
Good
how did you cut the access port?
RF Harkleroad dremel and a small burr bit
any chance of a link to that charging board
Old Git with new tech
This will work
Dmyond 4A DC to DC Automatic Adjustable Boost Converter Buck Converter Step UP Step Down Module
Voltage Regulator 5.5-30V to
0.5-30V with LCD Display www.amazon.com/dp/B07XFL78Q6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DqpOEbXR2J7SB
Has anyone had any issues with the battery no longer being charged through the Mavic charger or no longer output voltage because the balance cable was temporarily removed ? Some Mavic Flyer threads claim one of the chips disables the batteries normal input/output if the balance lead is disconnected. From this video it seems that is not the case.
I have had no such issues. Just don’t short out the battery pins.
@@199wildman Thank you for confirming William. I will give it a try.
Sir. Could you fix two of my batteries if I send them? I haven't found anyone local to fix them for me. And if it's possible how can I contact you?
Hey man, wondering how much you would charge me to revive two of my three batteries.? Where are you located?
ertatta Springfield Ohio. $10 each
You should TAPE or otherwise INSULATE those two wires while you are messing with connections, etc. If they short, that will not be good...
If I have a battery that sat for a year and won’t turn on, charge or anything, do you think this will help or do you have any other ideas?
Michael Allred yes. Just make sure when charging the dead cell that it is not completely shorted out when charging. You should see the amp output drop when charging. If not the battery is to far gone.
Do you think it would be possible to swap out the three cells once they get too old to fly? I just realised that DJI doesn't produce these batteries anymore
Yes, it’s doable
@@199wildman thanks, this gives me hope! If you were to make a tutorial about this in the future I would definitely watch it
Tried it doesn't work.
@@paulkazjack did you also balance charge them before use?
@@ocanehauncanedichieilcane Inside the battery case is a bms curcuit. Once this is removed to put new cells in the board bricks itself. Its a constantly live pack! (On all the time). I programmed non dji battery and use my own model batteries, from hobby shops.
Simple? Idk about that.
Dji mavic pro battry error
Help mi