I’m so glad I found your channel. I’m going to buy a boat from a friend of mine that has a 1998 two stroke 150 hp and I’m definitely going to be doing a lot of DIY to it. Thank you
I just go up to the ventilation plate as you can't see any tint change, go to a paint shop and get some Etch Primer for aluminium ,apply it with a paintbrush and sand after about three coats, it is also a filler so removes scratches as well as binds to the aluminium unlike primer which only sticks to a metal surface.
Nice job! When I was going fishing on the river 3-5 times a week (miss those good old days), my skegs were always bare aluminum, as we have a lot of sandbars and shallows here, so I only painted them once a year, as part of general maintanence before winter storage) Used straight up paint without primer or clearcoat, as there was no sense in it - it would sand away after 2-3 days of fishing) No big deal in fresh water, but if salt water is where the outborad will be used, you want as much of those coats as reasonably possible, because corrosin will eat aluminum away.
Yes, and I love it but mine broke last time I used it and it would just push the can out of the holder when you would squeeze the trigger, I need to get another one lol they aren't expensive I just didn't have time to go to Home Depot and get another one lol
Generally good video. My concern would be how aggressive your prep sanding was, much down to bare metal. Most marine manufacturers use some form of corrosion resistant chemical etch to the aluminum (Zirconium, Zinc, Chromium, others) and by sanding as aggressive as you have shown, you are removing that layer you won't be able to replace. Priming obviously helps, but not to the extent that the chemical etch would. My recommendation would be to sand only as deep as necessary and try not to break through the factory primer. Then prime and paint as you had shown. If you don't like the deep scratches, you would be better off to fill them and paint over rather than sand them out of the aluminum. Keep the vids coming!
Great job! very good indeed. Could you ever make a video about scanners and (generic) software for diagnosing engine problems? I'm very interested in this subject and I have difficulty finding information.
Just an idea, erosion strip on the leading edge. A heavy, clear adhesive that is applied , like a clear coat but a tape that will take some impact damage. Another idea have you ever bead blasted the lower unit? A heavy Teflon paint is close to bullet proofing the surface.
The only reason the clear coat can cloud and cracks and goes bad is because you sorta lay it a tad heavy on the first coat. Plus that nozzle that comes on that can is a round circle when it really should have more of a fan on it. Ive found the PPG in the orange can is the best clear in a can, but what you have works well, i just bought it recently for an engine of mine because i couldnt get the PPG in time but I went through my other can caps and found a fan nozzle that fit it and it is 10xs better.
I re-painted mine while still attached to the outboard engine. Sand. Mask. Wipe with wax & grease remover. Marine zinc-chromate primer. Paint. Clear coat. Voila.
Love the DIY videos, and a little focus on some two strokes. It'd be only too easy to focus on brand new boats. I re-painted a spare prop, and indeed all of the work is down to the prep. The process is very similar to painting a lower unit.
@@BornAgainBoating Pretty good so far. I was worried it'd start peeling from the tips of the prop blades first, but after probably 6 months so far, it hasn't lost any of the paint. I used a wirebrush on a cordless drill to remove all the old paint which was time-consuming. Then I used a dremel to rough up the surface and get the hard to reach spots. Then an acetone bath, 3x coats of self etching primer, finally finishing it off with multiple light coats of gloss white paint. It was a 13x19K Yamaha OEM prop (Stainless). I've since done another Yamaha 13x19K prop, and it came out even better, based on my experience first time (I allowed more time for the paint to cure, it seems thicker which I suspect will last longer)
@@BornAgainBoating Hope it goes well. Would love to see a video of it sometime if you decide to make one. I used two wooden stands, with a steel rod through the center of the prop to support it while spraying.
Hello if I'm painting the whole engine do I have to take the calling off... and do I need primer paint and clear coat.... is the primer absolutely necessary???
Great job! I actually used the same clear coat on an evinrude restoration and it orange peeled the whole engine. I had to start all over. I to am hesitant on using clear coat. I wish I knew what went wrong.
Not sure when, maybe a video on painting stainless steel, I don't have a ton of experience painting metal, but I'll try anything and video it for you lol Prop Speed is expensive but there are products like that that many people use on trim tabs for that reason, or other similar bottom paints
Ummmm, just guessing but I would say 3 cans of primer and paint and 2 cans of clear coat would be enough to make the entire engine look incredible :) and I would invest in the can trigger thing to save your finger :)
Thank you :) and just at Home Depot, you can get a 3-pack for $5 lol :) www.homedepot.com/p/Anvil-Stainless-Steel-Mini-Wire-Brushes-3-Pack-SMB3-ANV/309996631
If I may add my two-pence worth, ground contact points and anode should always be bare metal so any paint on them needs to be stripped off at the prep stage. Pitting and scratches could be fixed with body tiller and sanded smooth. Light scratches can be fixed just by using filler-type primer and sanding between coats with 400 grit sand paper. (Wet preferably). Acrylic clear coats do not stand well and generally will be diluted by any petroleum product like gearcase oil. Better use a 2k epoxy clear coat. It comes in spray cans, is easier to apply and will stand up a lot longer than acrylic or any water based products. Always wear a respirator when spraying 2k. Regards !
Absolutely, I just forgot to lol :/ (And I won't be sanding it all off and repainting either lol this boat gets straight bank and mangrove fishing in the rivers, it'll get repainted in a couple years anyway :)
Hi, This is Rose, I help Aaron with the comments, this is a nice question and I'll put this on the list for featuring on the podcast! If you haven't already, check it out and subscribe! www.youtube.com/@TheBoatersPodcast
Well, not really sure, personally I really only do work for content now, but if you hire someone, you've got about 2 hours in sand and prep, then about 3-4 hours in painting, but it's mainly 15 minutes at a time, so lets say 2-3 hours in painting and finishing. So that would be the time it would take to do it, and then plus materials and tax. Depending on the hourly rate, I would say you would be somewhere around $500-$800
I just got my outdrive painted by a "professional" who spray-painted the power tilt rods... i thought this was a big no-no as it puts wear on the gaskets? Am i correct? (they also painted my stainless steel duo-props) Arggg =(
Yes, you are correct, this is very bad and you need to get that paint off the trim rams because it can mess up the seals, but don’t scratch the paint off because you can scratch the rams in the process :/ use maybe a paint remover of some sort. That is an unfortunate event :(
Great video! Question please. You mentioned you must paint the lower unit. Does this pertain to saltwater applications only. My Mercury only sees freshwater. Thx!!
If you spend a ton of time in the water, yes, even fresh water too :) If it's just the skeg that's got the paint missing, you don't have to pull the lower, you can just pull the prop or even bag it up and just sand and paint the skeg while on the boat! :)
I am curious why you did not first use Marine zinc-chromate BEFORE using the grey primer? Zinc Chromate is always vital to make this work long term. It also is a barrier needed on bare aluminum in saltwater conditions. That greenish color you sanded off was that protective layer. It is expensive stuff but amazon has it for around 14 a can. Please guys, do not ever skip this step. Electrolysis is also stopped in part by using this stuff.
I’ve had a problem with. Acrylic paint and clear coat it can crack You don’t have that problem with enamel’s. I find I painted a Suzuki cowling and the clear cracked on it.
Yeah, that must be it, the acrylic clear coats crack, I've had that happen to me before but I didn't put it together that it was the acrylic clear coat and tno the enamel, why would a marine company sell a cowling clear coat that is acrylic???? lol thank you for commenting!
@@BornAgainBoating yeah right it does not hold up well I’m doing my 1994 evinrude 25 hood over and leg as they never used primer on their motors towards the end
Really like your channel… but FFS, chief… I think you got your point across about how paint can get scratched in the first minute of the video. No need to repeat the same thing over and over for the next six minutes! -lol
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I’m so glad I found your channel. I’m going to buy a boat from a friend of mine that has a 1998 two stroke 150 hp and I’m definitely going to be doing a lot of DIY to it. Thank you
Awesome! Congrats on the boat and welcome to the content :)
You are pumping out the videos man! Glad your back! I was getting worried.
Thank you! More to come :)
You are the man! I’ve learned so much about outboard engines from your channel.
Thank you! Glad to hear that :)
I just go up to the ventilation plate as you can't see any tint change, go to a paint shop and get some Etch Primer for aluminium ,apply it with a paintbrush and sand after about three coats, it is also a filler so removes scratches as well as binds to the aluminium unlike primer which only sticks to a metal surface.
Great vids! I'm rebuilding a pair of old yamaha's and this is has saved me so much time and pain. I subscribed!
Glad it helped! Thanks for subbing
Nice job! When I was going fishing on the river 3-5 times a week (miss those good old days), my skegs were always bare aluminum, as we have a lot of sandbars and shallows here, so I only painted them once a year, as part of general maintanence before winter storage) Used straight up paint without primer or clearcoat, as there was no sense in it - it would sand away after 2-3 days of fishing) No big deal in fresh water, but if salt water is where the outborad will be used, you want as much of those coats as reasonably possible, because corrosin will eat aluminum away.
I was waiting for this video I just ordered the paint!!!!!
Nice lol
Have you ever used a trigger cap for the rattle can? Saves on the finger.
Yes, and I love it but mine broke last time I used it and it would just push the can out of the holder when you would squeeze the trigger, I need to get another one lol they aren't expensive I just didn't have time to go to Home Depot and get another one lol
Generally good video. My concern would be how aggressive your prep sanding was, much down to bare metal. Most marine manufacturers use some form of corrosion resistant chemical etch to the aluminum (Zirconium, Zinc, Chromium, others) and by sanding as aggressive as you have shown, you are removing that layer you won't be able to replace. Priming obviously helps, but not to the extent that the chemical etch would. My recommendation would be to sand only as deep as necessary and try not to break through the factory primer. Then prime and paint as you had shown. If you don't like the deep scratches, you would be better off to fill them and paint over rather than sand them out of the aluminum. Keep the vids coming!
If you wire brush, don't use steel brush. It can or will leave steel particles in the aluminum. Dissimilar corrosion possible and likely
Great job! very good indeed. Could you ever make a video about scanners and (generic) software for diagnosing engine problems? I'm very interested in this subject and I have difficulty finding information.
Possibly, I just don't have a lot of experience or have an aftermarket scanner
Just an idea, erosion strip on the leading edge. A heavy, clear adhesive that is applied , like a clear coat but a tape that will take some impact damage.
Another idea have you ever bead blasted the lower unit? A heavy Teflon paint is close to bullet proofing the surface.
Never bead blasted, but I've heard of people doing that
The only reason the clear coat can cloud and cracks and goes bad is because you sorta lay it a tad heavy on the first coat. Plus that nozzle that comes on that can is a round circle when it really should have more of a fan on it.
Ive found the PPG in the orange can is the best clear in a can, but what you have works well, i just bought it recently for an engine of mine because i couldnt get the PPG in time but I went through my other can caps and found a fan nozzle that fit it and it is 10xs better.
I re-painted mine while still attached to the outboard engine. Sand. Mask. Wipe with wax & grease remover. Marine zinc-chromate primer. Paint. Clear coat. Voila.
Love the DIY videos, and a little focus on some two strokes. It'd be only too easy to focus on brand new boats. I re-painted a spare prop, and indeed all of the work is down to the prep. The process is very similar to painting a lower unit.
How'd the paint hold up on the prop? Was it stainless or aluminum? I've never tried to paint a prop but am super interested in it
@@BornAgainBoating Pretty good so far. I was worried it'd start peeling from the tips of the prop blades first, but after probably 6 months so far, it hasn't lost any of the paint.
I used a wirebrush on a cordless drill to remove all the old paint which was time-consuming. Then I used a dremel to rough up the surface and get the hard to reach spots. Then an acetone bath, 3x coats of self etching primer, finally finishing it off with multiple light coats of gloss white paint. It was a 13x19K Yamaha OEM prop (Stainless).
I've since done another Yamaha 13x19K prop, and it came out even better, based on my experience first time (I allowed more time for the paint to cure, it seems thicker which I suspect will last longer)
@@jrbuch interesting! Thank you, I think ima try that!
@@BornAgainBoating Hope it goes well. Would love to see a video of it sometime if you decide to make one.
I used two wooden stands, with a steel rod through the center of the prop to support it while spraying.
Hello if I'm painting the whole engine do I have to take the calling off... and do I need primer paint and clear coat.... is the primer absolutely necessary???
In the deep gouges could you use epoxy based fairing compound like you would use Bondo?
Exactly, that would work fine, most epoxies should stick to aluminum
Great job! I actually used the same clear coat on an evinrude restoration and it orange peeled the whole engine. I had to start all over. I to am hesitant on using clear coat. I wish I knew what went wrong.
The paint off gasses when drying as well so well ventilated
how do you get the spray...can you order it?
Can you do a video on painting and prepping stainless trim tabs that live in salt water?
Not sure when, maybe a video on painting stainless steel, I don't have a ton of experience painting metal, but I'll try anything and video it for you lol Prop Speed is expensive but there are products like that that many people use on trim tabs for that reason, or other similar bottom paints
I use zinc primate chrome.
Good video!
Zinc is great and thank you!
What are you using to clean the unit with?
Acetone and degreaser
My friend.....2k paint and 2k clear. Especially the 2k clear. Has its own catalyst instead of air dry. And will be fuel/solvent resistant 👍
Thanks for the great videos.
I have the same outboard. How many cans of primer, paint, and clear will I need to paint the entire outboard?
Ummmm, just guessing but I would say 3 cans of primer and paint and 2 cans of clear coat would be enough to make the entire engine look incredible :) and I would invest in the can trigger thing to save your finger :)
Great video and by the way where did you get the two-headed wire brush?
Thank you :) and just at Home Depot, you can get a 3-pack for $5 lol :)
www.homedepot.com/p/Anvil-Stainless-Steel-Mini-Wire-Brushes-3-Pack-SMB3-ANV/309996631
If I may add my two-pence worth, ground contact points and anode should always be bare metal so any paint on them needs to be stripped off at the prep stage. Pitting and scratches could be fixed with body tiller and sanded smooth. Light scratches can be fixed just by using filler-type primer and sanding between coats with 400 grit sand paper. (Wet preferably). Acrylic clear coats do not stand well and generally will be diluted by any petroleum product like gearcase oil. Better use a 2k epoxy clear coat. It comes in spray cans, is easier to apply and will stand up a lot longer than acrylic or any water based products. Always wear a respirator when spraying 2k. Regards !
Thank you, great info!
Great video! But you should point out that the wire brush should be aluminium/same as what you use it on. Its a harsh environment down there.
Do you ever use Zinc chromate primer? It's the floureescnt yellow/green stuff for aluminum.
Absolutely, I just forgot to lol :/ (And I won't be sanding it all off and repainting either lol this boat gets straight bank and mangrove fishing in the rivers, it'll get repainted in a couple years anyway :)
I have corrosion on the skeg. What is the best way to address this before painting?
Hi, This is Rose, I help Aaron with the comments, this is a nice question and I'll put this on the list for featuring on the podcast! If you haven't already, check it out and subscribe! www.youtube.com/@TheBoatersPodcast
How’s the paint job holding up??
No issues yet, check back in another 8 months I'll have another video and we'll see how it holds up, also tracking hours ;)
Used the same clear when I repainted my 90 Etec. I did use an etching primer on the metal parts. Don’t know if that made a difference.
Etching primer is a great primer
Very nice!
Juat curious what you would charge for a job like this?
Well, not really sure, personally I really only do work for content now, but if you hire someone, you've got about 2 hours in sand and prep, then about 3-4 hours in painting, but it's mainly 15 minutes at a time, so lets say 2-3 hours in painting and finishing. So that would be the time it would take to do it, and then plus materials and tax. Depending on the hourly rate, I would say you would be somewhere around $500-$800
This is a really nice looking unit! The video is a little like watching paint dry, though! :)
I just got my outdrive painted by a "professional" who spray-painted the power tilt rods... i thought this was a big no-no as it puts wear on the gaskets? Am i correct? (they also painted my stainless steel duo-props) Arggg =(
Yes, you are correct, this is very bad and you need to get that paint off the trim rams because it can mess up the seals, but don’t scratch the paint off because you can scratch the rams in the process :/ use maybe a paint remover of some sort. That is an unfortunate event :(
Nice job!!
Thanks!
Hey how come you are not at the marina anymore?
Still do some work at the marina but focused on creating more videos for you!
Great video! Question please.
You mentioned you must paint the lower unit. Does this pertain to saltwater applications only.
My Mercury only sees freshwater.
Thx!!
If you spend a ton of time in the water, yes, even fresh water too :) If it's just the skeg that's got the paint missing, you don't have to pull the lower, you can just pull the prop or even bag it up and just sand and paint the skeg while on the boat! :)
@@BornAgainBoating Great, good advice and a great video.
Thanks for taking my question!
Link to the spray paint please?
soon this is BAB University.🎉
Yup :)
What brand contact cleaner do you use?
I like the Yamaha contact cleaner but it's hard to come by right now :(
Does anyone use Pacifica on their transom mount transducers?
I am curious why you did not first use Marine zinc-chromate BEFORE using the grey primer? Zinc Chromate is always vital to make this work long term. It also is a barrier needed on bare aluminum in saltwater conditions. That greenish color you sanded off was that protective layer. It is expensive stuff but amazon has it for around 14 a can. Please guys, do not ever skip this step. Electrolysis is also stopped in part by using this stuff.
Easy answer, I forgot too :/ lol but you are correct chromate is a necessary step
Dude I love you
That's what she said ;) lol
Hi can u review vide0 0n your workshop?
Possibly in the future!
I’ve had a problem with. Acrylic paint and clear coat it can crack You don’t have that problem with enamel’s. I find I painted a Suzuki cowling and the clear cracked on it.
Yeah, that must be it, the acrylic clear coats crack, I've had that happen to me before but I didn't put it together that it was the acrylic clear coat and tno the enamel, why would a marine company sell a cowling clear coat that is acrylic???? lol thank you for commenting!
@@BornAgainBoating yeah right it does not hold up well I’m doing my 1994 evinrude 25 hood over and leg as they never used primer on their motors towards the end
Best thing for lower unit is using ceramic wax Wow does it work
Interesting, that's a great tip, thank you!
I’m just going to rip the paint off the next voyage 😊
Lol true that
Thanks for the good products. This video could have been literally 25mins shorter though
Next time!
Really like your channel… but FFS, chief… I think you got your point across about how paint can get scratched in the first minute of the video. No need to repeat the same thing over and over for the next six minutes! -lol
put some bed liner on it.
A lot of people do that! Does create drag though, but that's negligible