You’ll know your ratios once you start arcing. Usually less is more with baking soda. If you’re using TSP the reg not the safe kind it’s best to pulverize it up first and takes a bit more than baking soda. For ref I use a 64oz bath give or take and usually 4-6 tablespoons of banking soda and 2 table spoons of TSP for good measure. Titanium plate in the bottom 2mm I think, then a titanium handle and mesh under my plate to create your full Ti connection. For colors approx 7-9 light bronze , 9-12, brown bronze, 12-15 ish rusty bronze hint of red/purp. 15-19 dark purple, 19-24 blues, 24-30 ish grey green teal, 30-40 greens, 40-50 green to golds , 50 -55 tan to gold, 55-65 gold to pinks 65-70 getting into fuchsia. 70-75 popping purple 75-80 blurple. 80-85 blues teals , 85-91 teal Tiffany blue robins egg, 91-93 super teal green, 93-103 toxic green. Above 103 you’re back to Greys. It’s usually best to set your voltage to the approx setting of the color you want rather than building to it. If you’re sparking or your Amps aren’t dropping just jiggle the part around usually it’ll settle down. If you can’t control the arcing something is wrong. Usually not enough electrolyte or the ratio of anode surface area to part is off. You want as much surface area in the bath as possible. If you’re trying to ano a 6”x2” part and you’ve got a ti straw as your anode you’re gonna have an issue. Your anode should be larger in surface area than your parts surface area if that makes sense
Nice video. A few tips: 1. When using an ultrasonic cleaner, putting metal parts in another metal bin or container can cause marks on the project material. I like to use a plastic container inside the bath. 2. Whink contains Hydrofluoric Acid, which can cause serious issues and bone loss if absorbed through your skin. (Delayed reaction so you may not know immediately) 3. Above 50VDC or so you can get shocked. Especially if you're not wearing gloves.
I love anodizing titanium at home and looks like we've arrived at basically the same setup. I was never able to get the Whick to work for some reason, even leaving it over night. Would also like to note that you don't necessarily have to use a titanium wire. The titanium wire just allows you to get the whole piece at once without a different metal stealing the energy. For example, you can use the stainless steel alligator clips on the bolt shaft to submerge the bolt head, but once you dip the stainless into the water, the titanium stops anodizing.
@@bigcurt09haven’t personally tried those, but I would assume that as long as the copper or aluminum aren’t touching the water it should transfer the current and voltage needed just fine
Taylor - Really enjoy your channel. A couple of tidbits on anodizing Titanium (and or Niobium). I’ve been doing this for many years. The voltage and current your supply provides, especially at the higher voltages can be dangerous. You should make a point of working with one hand, and ensuring the power supply is off before touching your piece. At anything past 48 volts or so you can get a shock, at 98.0 volts with a power supply that can deliver more than an amp (I have the same one at home) you can get killed. Also adding a bit of TSP or soap will help avoid the blotchiness as it acts as a wetting agent helping to ensure best contact of the metal with the solution. Best of luck.
One more little item - If you turn your current limit way down, the color change will occur slowly rather than all at once. Then if you set a higher voltage color (like teal at 98 volts in your example, you can submerge your piece, and slowly remove it as color changes giving you a beautiful rainbow effect across the item being anodized. Limiting the current gives you time to control the effect. Voltage only sets the final color acheived.
Matte sand blast will get your the most vibrant saturated colors. Satin not great for the most part. Machined does well but you’ll need to adjust your voltage a few volts from matte. Polished is a hard one. Some voltages hit nice some just don’t work. The quality of ti is also super important. You’ll find some makers cheap out and you’ll just have a hard time getting even color or you’ll top out at 30v cause the ti just is shit or prefab composite ti. Scoopyloops for example is a good maker who only uses premium ti and you’ll get amazing colors. Practice makes better. After 4-5 years in trying every method imaginable instill learn new tricks every time.
I use a plastic strainer and a tungsten rod as my anode when I do small parts like screws you just drop them in the strainer and tap each of them with the rod until your voltage stabilizes works really well
This is totally something I'm interested in seeing you take it up a few notches! Awesome job for just messing around man, can't wait for more anodizing videos! 🤌
Black. Everyone wants the black. Here’s how. Blasting is key. Sandblast your part nice and even. Keep it clean. Get yourself a nice torch. Don’t skimp out you can get a nice adjustable nozzle with auto lock for 50 bucks it’s worth the investment. Peanut oil. Trust me. Cleanest low smoke low Oder. Don’t mess with wd-40 or veg oil etc. get a gallon of pure peanut oil for 11 bucks. Get yourself a pair of long needle nose pliers or fashion a rod of sorts to handle your part. I use long skinny Titanium tent sticks. Bent into a J. We use ti cause it doesn’t conduct heat too fast and you don’t really need gloves. Clean dry blasted part, max out the torch and hit it constantly moving spinning rotating to get an orange hot glowing evenly across the whole part. Once your as hot as she’s gonna get dip strait into the oil. Sometimes you’ll get a flash of flame just be careful it’ll go out usually within a second. Then just wish wash it around the oil for 30 seconds or so. Let it cool and dry it off. If it top quality Ti and your blast was solid you should have a decent black to dark grey. Depends on the size of the part thickness how hot you got it before the oil etc. if it’s not as dark as you want just repeat the process from heat to oil as many times as needed. Small thinks like beads or clips generally only need 1-3 dips. Larger things like Sebenza scales for instance will take some time. On larger parts like that it’s easier to do half the part at a time. It’ll blend fine. Eventually you’ll get to the point of max blackness. Some parts just won’t get there and some will be jet black after the first dip. Just the way it is. Be careful also with clips and thin shit cause you will be losing a lot of rigidity each time you take that part to the orange hot. Once maybe twice is the max I’ll do. Also frame locks, if you’re doing anything with lock bars be super careful not to destroy your tension on a 1k frame lock just to get it looking black or grey. SS works quite the same way as Ti for this process. Sometimes better. Copper bronze brass. Takes a bit of skill and patience. You can’t get red or orange hot with those metals cause all you’ll do is turn them pink in the oil. You want to take them red hot then let them cool in the air until they hit just past grey then into the oil. If you see any crispy Bits or shedding you gotta start over. There is a very thin line between getting a nice saturated copper to black and burning the oil on the copper to shit. You’ll get the hang of it. Similar to copper brass and bronze is Inconel. You want to coming down from red hot to grey then into the oil and repeat as needed. Safety tip#1. Dry you part off best you can between each run. If you take the torch to it while you got oil dripping from the thing you’re gonna light it on fire after a few second and it’s gonna spray lit oil all over the floor or whatever. It’ll burn off quickly but just be aware of that. This is not something we are doing in the kitchen or in the house. Garage basement shed workshop etc. is best and just dab tbe excess oil off between runs and again you’ll get the handle of how much it lights up and how to deal with the burn off. Once you’re happy with the darkness etc clean it up with some 99%ISO let it dry and hit it with some mineral oil lightly just to cover it it up and you’ll have a sweet looking deep dark even coat of black Ti etc. check IG @munclepatswares some of you know me already. Happy to help and answer questions on there as well. Practice makes decent cause we will never be perfect. The cool thing about ano vs hard coat like cerakote etc is it’s natural and we can only influence the outcome. The metal and the circumstance determine the outcome. Play around with it be safe keep notes improve your technique everytime. 👊🏽
1) Thank you for making a video on this. 2) I’ve been a fan awhile now; and I can notice a BIG difference in the video, there is cut outs and separate views and it’s looking real good and I just wanted to say keep up the great work! 🙏🏼 🌎 ☮️
It's been a minute since I've anodized anything myself. I have the same exact setup, except with a sonic cleaner from Harbor Freight. BTW, you never said what cleaning agent you're using. It's been recommended to use a ratio of Simple Green and water but I could never get my parts to come clean so I just use soap and hot water. As for Whink (I also have a big gallon of Multietch but I liked the Whink better) you can pick that up at Walmart in the paint section and it works really well. Just make sure to be careful with it since it can be pretty toxic. Like don't stand over it and breathe it in. Another small tip, when you're dunking your pieces in the etchant or the anodizing bath, I always move them around to keep the bubbles off. That will make sure there's not an air bubble between the piece you're anodizing and the solution. Also, for small parts like the screw, you can drop it in the bath and move it around with the anode, it will still etch just fine. I used a really small plastic container that I poked a million holes to dunk in my anodizing bath for anodizing all of my SAK screws. Ultimately though, I ended up with more frustrations than successes with my anodizing so I just sent it all out to EDC Gearhouse. 😂
This was really informative great job. I’ve been wondering why I see so many blue anodized knife scales and not a lot of green ones ( my favorite color). Now I know it seems to be a harder/longer process to get it to come out right.
Taylor, absolute #1 the gloves are to keep you from electrocuting yourself... Kinda common horse but jus say in and from everything I've heard you really want to use titanium for your part holder to avoid an adverse reaction.
great video, are you anodizing titanium parts, or care you anodizing stainless steel parts with titanium? Also what material are you using for the cathode? sorry I missed this in the video.
I'll trade you some tractor work for you few green stuff like that pen. For some reason I'm partial to green.. not sure why, but it might be my last name. 😂 Actually kinda being serious, I'm just down the road in Lake Wylie SC.
Whink. Forgot the whink. Yes multi-etch is cleaner and safer and all around a better choice for those doing this more than a few times a year. If you’re using whink though a few things to consider. 1. Don’t let your parts sit in it for too long as soon as your color is gone and the part is back to raw Ti pull it out and into some distilled Water or your ano bath. At some point your whink will turn yellow or get scum on the top that’s time to toss and refill. Only clean parts into the whink as well. Oils, glues stuff like that will kill the whink and you’re just wasting it. Once you get the bubbles bubbling and sizzling that’s generally the sign that you’re not eating up the metal and time to pull. The more oxide layers the longer it’ll take the whink to get to metal. Also don’t dry to whink off black. Just reblast. You’ll be there for an hour trying to get black off with whink. It’s nasty shit but I’ve dipped my fingers right into the shit many times thinking it was the water bowl and just be sure to rinse off your hand etc. it won’t kill you. What it will do though is kill your nostrils and sense of smell if you’re just sitting there Breathing it in. You’ll see the smoke coming off the surface do your best to not breath that in. You’ll know when you do. Vent, fans, not indoors near kids or people in general. It’s fine to keep in plastic just use labels and your head. Don’t over whink as many will do eventually you’ll start to eat away at the part and lose all your tolerances to expensive 000 tight tolerances. Use as little as possible as few times as possible. The better you get at the craft the less whink you’ll find yourself using. 🤙🏼
You should do another classy edc weekly video. Those are just the best. Also I’m looking for an affordable fixed blade. Where I am the limit is 4 inches so I’m having a hard time if anyone knows of any solid ones that would be great
Bradford Guardian is a good one for that size. Honestly, I’d probably look at an ESEE 3, it’s 3.88”, it’s tough, and if you do break it - no matter how it happens! - ESEE will replace it FOR LIFE. You can’t really beat that for the price. Knife Country has them right now for $95 (!!) which is a STEAL. Under $100 for lifetime knife? Yes, please.
![Best Damn EDC [Taylor Martin]](http://yt3.ggpht.com/C23xT4qXAgWe_wPaHXS9N0UNliYR1ZaNyf2qXLCt2WaRpVKD802vEiMatltiOU_6T3ohYkQK4g=s48-c-k-c0x00ffffff-no-rj)
You’ll know your ratios once you start arcing. Usually less is more with baking soda. If you’re using TSP the reg not the safe kind it’s best to pulverize it up first and takes a bit more than baking soda. For ref I use a 64oz bath give or take and usually 4-6 tablespoons of banking soda and 2 table spoons of TSP for good measure. Titanium plate in the bottom 2mm I think, then a titanium handle and mesh under my plate to create your full Ti connection. For colors approx 7-9 light bronze , 9-12, brown bronze, 12-15 ish rusty bronze hint of red/purp. 15-19 dark purple, 19-24 blues, 24-30 ish grey green teal, 30-40 greens, 40-50 green to golds , 50 -55 tan to gold, 55-65 gold to pinks 65-70 getting into fuchsia. 70-75 popping purple 75-80 blurple. 80-85 blues teals , 85-91 teal Tiffany blue robins egg, 91-93 super teal green, 93-103 toxic green. Above 103 you’re back to Greys. It’s usually best to set your voltage to the approx setting of the color you want rather than building to it. If you’re sparking or your Amps aren’t dropping just jiggle the part around usually it’ll settle down. If you can’t control the arcing something is wrong. Usually not enough electrolyte or the ratio of anode surface area to part is off. You want as much surface area in the bath as possible. If you’re trying to ano a 6”x2” part and you’ve got a ti straw as your anode you’re gonna have an issue. Your anode should be larger in surface area than your parts surface area if that makes sense
Nice video. A few tips: 1. When using an ultrasonic cleaner, putting metal parts in another metal bin or container can cause marks on the project material. I like to use a plastic container inside the bath. 2. Whink contains Hydrofluoric Acid, which can cause serious issues and bone loss if absorbed through your skin. (Delayed reaction so you may not know immediately) 3. Above 50VDC or so you can get shocked. Especially if you're not wearing gloves.
I love anodizing titanium at home and looks like we've arrived at basically the same setup. I was never able to get the Whick to work for some reason, even leaving it over night.
Would also like to note that you don't necessarily have to use a titanium wire. The titanium wire just allows you to get the whole piece at once without a different metal stealing the energy. For example, you can use the stainless steel alligator clips on the bolt shaft to submerge the bolt head, but once you dip the stainless into the water, the titanium stops anodizing.
Could you use paper clips or copper wire?
@@bigcurt09haven’t personally tried those, but I would assume that as long as the copper or aluminum aren’t touching the water it should transfer the current and voltage needed just fine
Taylor - Really enjoy your channel. A couple of tidbits on anodizing Titanium (and or Niobium). I’ve been doing this for many years. The voltage and current your supply provides, especially at the higher voltages can be dangerous. You should make a point of working with one hand, and ensuring the power supply is off before touching your piece. At anything past 48 volts or so you can get a shock, at 98.0 volts with a power supply that can deliver more than an amp (I have the same one at home) you can get killed. Also adding a bit of TSP or soap will help avoid the blotchiness as it acts as a wetting agent helping to ensure best contact of the metal with the solution. Best of luck.
One more little item - If you turn your current limit way down, the color change will occur slowly rather than all at once. Then if you set a higher voltage color (like teal at 98 volts in your example, you can submerge your piece, and slowly remove it as color changes giving you a beautiful rainbow effect across the item being anodized. Limiting the current gives you time to control the effect. Voltage only sets the final color acheived.
When you mention working with one hand - do you mean the other should be grounded? Want to do this as safely as possible.
@@Firelye504 No the other hand should be as far away from anything your working with. The last thing you should do is ground any part of your body.
Got it!@@evans_workshop
Matte sand blast will get your the most vibrant saturated colors. Satin not great for the most part. Machined does well but you’ll need to adjust your voltage a few volts from matte. Polished is a hard one. Some voltages hit nice some just don’t work. The quality of ti is also super important. You’ll find some makers cheap out and you’ll just have a hard time getting even color or you’ll top out at 30v cause the ti just is shit or prefab composite ti. Scoopyloops for example is a good maker who only uses premium ti and you’ll get amazing colors. Practice makes better. After 4-5 years in trying every method imaginable instill learn new tricks every time.
This timing is crazy, was just yesterday parting out all the things I need for this… someone’s listening.😳
I use a plastic strainer and a tungsten rod as my anode when I do small parts like screws you just drop them in the strainer and tap each of them with the rod until your voltage stabilizes works really well
bro ive been looking for tutorials for this that i could sit through thanks so much
This is totally something I'm interested in seeing you take it up a few notches! Awesome job for just messing around man, can't wait for more anodizing videos! 🤌
Black. Everyone wants the black. Here’s how. Blasting is key. Sandblast your part nice and even. Keep it clean. Get yourself a nice torch. Don’t skimp out you can get a nice adjustable nozzle with auto lock for 50 bucks it’s worth the investment. Peanut oil. Trust me. Cleanest low smoke low Oder. Don’t mess with wd-40 or veg oil etc. get a gallon of pure peanut oil for 11 bucks. Get yourself a pair of long needle nose pliers or fashion a rod of sorts to handle your part. I use long skinny Titanium tent sticks. Bent into a J. We use ti cause it doesn’t conduct heat too fast and you don’t really need gloves. Clean dry blasted part, max out the torch and hit it constantly moving spinning rotating to get an orange hot glowing evenly across the whole part. Once your as hot as she’s gonna get dip strait into the oil. Sometimes you’ll get a flash of flame just be careful it’ll go out usually within a second. Then just wish wash it around the oil for 30 seconds or so. Let it cool and dry it off. If it top quality Ti and your blast was solid you should have a decent black to dark grey. Depends on the size of the part thickness how hot you got it before the oil etc. if it’s not as dark as you want just repeat the process from heat to oil as many times as needed. Small thinks like beads or clips generally only need 1-3 dips. Larger things like Sebenza scales for instance will take some time. On larger parts like that it’s easier to do half the part at a time. It’ll blend fine. Eventually you’ll get to the point of max blackness. Some parts just won’t get there and some will be jet black after the first dip. Just the way it is. Be careful also with clips and thin shit cause you will be losing a lot of rigidity each time you take that part to the orange hot. Once maybe twice is the max I’ll do. Also frame locks, if you’re doing anything with lock bars be super careful not to destroy your tension on a 1k frame lock just to get it looking black or grey. SS works quite the same way as Ti for this process. Sometimes better. Copper bronze brass. Takes a bit of skill and patience. You can’t get red or orange hot with those metals cause all you’ll do is turn them pink in the oil. You want to take them red hot then let them cool in the air until they hit just past grey then into the oil. If you see any crispy Bits or shedding you gotta start over. There is a very thin line between getting a nice saturated copper to black and burning the oil on the copper to shit. You’ll get the hang of it. Similar to copper brass and bronze is Inconel. You want to coming down from red hot to grey then into the oil and repeat as needed. Safety tip#1. Dry you part off best you can between each run. If you take the torch to it while you got oil dripping from the thing you’re gonna light it on fire after a few second and it’s gonna spray lit oil all over the floor or whatever. It’ll burn off quickly but just be aware of that. This is not something we are doing in the kitchen or in the house. Garage basement shed workshop etc. is best and just dab tbe excess oil off between runs and again you’ll get the handle of how much it lights up and how to deal with the burn off. Once you’re happy with the darkness etc clean it up with some 99%ISO let it dry and hit it with some mineral oil lightly just to cover it it up and you’ll have a sweet looking deep dark even coat of black Ti etc. check IG @munclepatswares some of you know me already. Happy to help and answer questions on there as well. Practice makes decent cause we will never be perfect. The cool thing about ano vs hard coat like cerakote etc is it’s natural and we can only influence the outcome. The metal and the circumstance determine the outcome. Play around with it be safe keep notes improve your technique everytime. 👊🏽
1) Thank you for making a video on this.
2) I’ve been a fan awhile now; and I can notice a BIG difference in the video, there is cut outs and separate views and it’s looking real good and I just wanted to say keep up the great work!
🙏🏼 🌎 ☮️
It's been a minute since I've anodized anything myself. I have the same exact setup, except with a sonic cleaner from Harbor Freight. BTW, you never said what cleaning agent you're using. It's been recommended to use a ratio of Simple Green and water but I could never get my parts to come clean so I just use soap and hot water. As for Whink (I also have a big gallon of Multietch but I liked the Whink better) you can pick that up at Walmart in the paint section and it works really well. Just make sure to be careful with it since it can be pretty toxic. Like don't stand over it and breathe it in. Another small tip, when you're dunking your pieces in the etchant or the anodizing bath, I always move them around to keep the bubbles off. That will make sure there's not an air bubble between the piece you're anodizing and the solution. Also, for small parts like the screw, you can drop it in the bath and move it around with the anode, it will still etch just fine. I used a really small plastic container that I poked a million holes to dunk in my anodizing bath for anodizing all of my SAK screws. Ultimately though, I ended up with more frustrations than successes with my anodizing so I just sent it all out to EDC Gearhouse. 😂
That was interesting. The green pen looks pretty cool.
Cool video! I dig the color the pen came out to be
Ayeee this is very very Good I’ve been looking nd this was very easy to understand from you keep it up
I have a full titanium Casio watch. And now I have some good idea ;)
This was really informative great job. I’ve been wondering why I see so many blue anodized knife scales and not a lot of green ones ( my favorite color). Now I know it seems to be a harder/longer process to get it to come out right.
Does there need to be good ventilation or is it safe to do this inside or in the basement?
would love to see a list of different voltages and water mixes making different colors. really would like to try a brown/bronze
So cool!!!!!
Please Is there anyway you can review the Streamlight Wedge!
Taylor, absolute #1 the gloves are to keep you from electrocuting yourself... Kinda common horse but jus say in and from everything I've heard you really want to use titanium for your part holder to avoid an adverse reaction.
Please partially fade anodize your Ti bottle.That'd look amazing!
great video, are you anodizing titanium parts, or care you anodizing stainless steel parts with titanium? Also what material are you using for the cathode? sorry I missed this in the video.
He’s anodizing Ti parts, and it looks like the cathode is a pure Ti bar clamped to the bucket and clipped with the + alligator clip.
@@DZNTZ Ty, much appreciated.
That green pen looks awesome!!! I am hunting for and EDC pen....🤔
Awesome video man thank you, this was a nice intro and now I have to buy another pen and do that.
hey this is fascinating and SO HELPFUL, thanks fren
Can i use copper wire instead of titanium wire?
I like to heat anodize. I find the oxide stays longer and is a lot harder. But this is definitely easier. Nice work
That was really cool to watch
Dude! That was sick!🤑
Where’s the link to the actual container that houses the electrolyte bath
Hey I want to anodize a titanium watch . Have you every done one?
How dare youuuuuu! Bringing education to us. More so in this very setting! If I wanted to learn something, I'd have gone to school.
Love this selfie things
Is it possible to anodize polymer clay?
I'll trade you some tractor work for you few green stuff like that pen. For some reason I'm partial to green.. not sure why, but it might be my last name. 😂 Actually kinda being serious, I'm just down the road in Lake Wylie SC.
How can i buy ur products? I dont have instagram or other social media
Taylor Martin The Ano Guy, Taylor! Taylor Taylor! Ano is cool.
“Do things the proper way” PSSHHHHHH!!
Who does things the “proper” way??😉
Thanks for the info bud!
Whink. Forgot the whink. Yes multi-etch is cleaner and safer and all around a better choice for those doing this more than a few times a year. If you’re using whink though a few things to consider. 1. Don’t let your parts sit in it for too long as soon as your color is gone and the part is back to raw Ti pull it out and into some distilled
Water or your ano bath. At some point your whink will turn yellow or get scum on the top that’s time to toss and refill. Only clean parts into the whink as well. Oils, glues stuff like that will kill the whink and you’re just wasting it. Once you get the bubbles bubbling and sizzling that’s generally the sign that you’re not eating up the metal and time to pull. The more oxide layers the longer it’ll take the whink to get to metal. Also don’t dry to whink off black. Just reblast. You’ll be there for an hour trying to get black off with whink. It’s nasty shit but I’ve dipped my fingers right into the shit many times thinking it was the water bowl and just be sure to rinse off your hand etc. it won’t kill you. What it will do though is kill your nostrils and sense of smell if you’re just sitting there Breathing it in. You’ll see the smoke coming off the surface do your best to not breath that in. You’ll know when you do. Vent, fans, not indoors near kids or people in general. It’s fine to keep in plastic just use labels and your head. Don’t over whink as many will do eventually you’ll start to eat away at the part and lose all your tolerances to expensive 000 tight tolerances. Use as little as possible as few times as possible. The better you get at the craft the less whink you’ll find yourself using. 🤙🏼
Where can we get that Carry Commission hat?!
Soooooooon
You should do another classy edc weekly video. Those are just the best. Also I’m looking for an affordable fixed blade. Where I am the limit is 4 inches so I’m having a hard time if anyone knows of any solid ones that would be great
Bradford Guardian is a good one for that size. Honestly, I’d probably look at an ESEE 3, it’s 3.88”, it’s tough, and if you do break it - no matter how it happens! - ESEE will replace it FOR LIFE. You can’t really beat that for the price. Knife Country has them right now for $95 (!!) which is a STEAL. Under $100 for lifetime knife? Yes, please.
After getting past about 105 volts it’ll go to a iridescent like silver. All the way up to about 125 volts. 😎🤷depending what grade you’re working with
Subed
Baking soda I have baking soda 🎤
Where can I get a the best damn edc sticker from?
Is this legit
what hat is that?
Early!!!!
first