Couple of things I noticed outside of an overall well done video...most importantly: Be careful touching that piece with your finger tip exposed like that man...could have gotten a hefty shock. 50ish volts and under your skin will resist but above that or even in that range and you're asking for a nasty surprise. Changing gloves after the cleaning process without touching any surface is also necessary...you're still likely transferring oils onto the piece with those reusable gloves. And that's one of the reasons your initial blue looked inconsistent. This will be less apparent due to the camo that you covered it up with, obviously, but the point still stands. Rather than simply drying the piece off...you should swish it around in a rinse of distilled water. The etch sitting in any spot on the piece longer than any others will lead to surface inconsistencies, and or sitting on the piece as it anodizes, and thus color inconsistencies. If you're doing knife scales...you should do them simultaneously. Especially with a power supply like yours (and mine!) that struggles with amperage...and especially in the higher voltages. Again, you did lower voltages...and weren't going for a consistent color between two scales for anything but the base layer. But try matching two pink scales...or god forbid green...while doing them separately. It won't be perfect. As an aside...doing a "hook" when you anodize multiple pieces will also cause issues if you're struggling for amperage. Loop the pieces together so that everything receives current at the same rate. In the event that you do a bigger piece (or both scales at the same time)...you'll need a bigger anode. That wire probably has a surprising surface area - but that surface area directly correlates with how easily you can "bottom out" your amperage. TSP-PF should be used in a smaller amount. It should definitely fully dissolve. If you ever see sparks coming from your piece on pinks/greens while doing a full part...you used too much. Which I highly suspect your solution is. Not trying to be a negative Nancy - just sharing knowledge that I've found.
@@Jubakuba I made a typo I'm sorry, I was meant to ask titanium intake pipe. Meaning titanium intake pipe is going to have significantly larger surface area than a small knife scale, that's why I was asking if one can use the same small power supply, would that be enough ? Isn't the PSU going to struggle or something ?
@@rixogtr Oh you're good. Yeah, it wouldn't be possible to do the whole thing in a bath. But you could paint it all a uniform color like this guy does on this bike. ruclips.net/video/KwqlhYDnLo8/видео.html
You inspired me to try this. I crowned the spine of the blade, acid etched and stone washed the blade and pocket clip and anodized the scales. Thanks for the great videos.
"It turned out pretty nice" is a big understatment! Turned out frickin Awesome! Thanks for the tutorial. Appreciate the details on sourcing and mixing the chemicals and the clear, concise demo. Love that camo finish. Will be trying that on a few pieces.
Awesome video! This helped me out big time since I wasn't sure what voltage meter tool to purchase, so thank you! The scales came out looking awesome!💯💯
The great thing about titanium is that it can change color. A very light, sturdy material. I used titanium thread to make the keychain. If you like it please refer.
Awesome video! I have a Knifejoy exclusive chef with the blue anodized scales. They’re scratched up bad and worn to the point where they’re almost gray looking again. I’m going to re-anodized them back to the bright blue they were when new. Thank you for this video!
Wonderful job on this video! I watched the whole thing, then wondered why you didn't just buy Multi-Etch. About 15 minutes of rabbit holing later and I understand completely. I will never comprehend why some companies make it so difficult to buy their products. It's like they're yelling at us to find an alternative.
Thanks! Yeah, you used to be able to get it from Rio Grande. It was expensive. Making it yourself is a bit of a pain, but something like 1/3 of the cost. I don’t know the logistics of storing and shipping that kind of product, maybe retailers don’t want to handle it or maybe it’s just the way the company is run, but getting it on Amazon sure would be nice...
Thank you for this awesome tutorial! quick question, do I need to make 1 liter of the multi-etch substitute or can I use half a liter water and half the amount of APS and NaF mentioned in your video? Would it work just as good?
Do you save and reuse the chemicals in the containers for multiple items over a period of time or do i need to dispose of it after each use. Are there safe methods for disposing of both containers that wont cause any damage.
great video . but why the etching ? I see some people say polish is better for brighter colors . ty for the links it makes the process a lot easier knowing exactly what you have .
I think I glossed right over what the use for it was. It etches the Titanium and makes the colors brighter. Not a necessity, but certainly helps. Also makes things consistent and will remove anodization.
Wanting to get my “New Kizer Inversion” anodized. Being a tactical knife I want to blackout the clip/liners and doing something complementing the scales. Are you planning on doing Mods for your viewers?
Yes, lots of other mods planned. Trying to make it through my backlog of reviews in Dec. let me know what type of mods or on what knives you want to see them on.
Thanks for the video, and the description of the alternative etch. I'm not able to buy MultiEtch in my country, so an alternative solution was welcome. One question; are you able to strip or reset the anodizing with your etch solution like you can with MultiEtch?
Spyderco doesn't void warranty unless you mess it up putting it back together. Anodizing scales probably does void it though because it's an alteration.
Why the acid bath necessary, what does it do?, and instead of this moisture is whink rust remover does the same effect with this solution, or doest it has to be that solution? If not what's the difference?
@The Pocket Perspective thanks for posting this, I have been researching this after finding that the Australian importer of Multi Etch was selling a 0.536Kg pack for $179 plus another $100 for shipping 😳. So just one question, Multi Etch is used hot (like 70-80°C) but I don’t think you did that or did I miss something?
You want the detention ball and the pivot and bearing track as smooth as possible so you protect them from the acid etch and anodizing process by painting them with an enamel paint and then when your done remove it with acetone.
You don’t set the current, you set the voltage, the current will change as the part anodizes. On a supply you either chose a constant voltage or a constant current and the supply will regulate the other variable to maintain the requested voltage or current based on a variable load
Spyderco actually updated their warranty and as long as you don't mess anything up when you disassemble or reassemble the knife it doesn't void the warranty
They seem pretty hit or miss. If they feel like warrantying it they will, if you give them an out sometimes they take it and send the knife back warranty voided.
I got the setup in the video built finaly but after trying to andodize i find that i cant get more then the pivot area to anodize and thats the part i didnt touch with and wire wheel i was wondering if u have any hints or tips or fixes for this problom or anyone in the comments
You may have used a brass wire wheel and coated the Ti with a thin layer. Hit the back side with a little fine sand paper and see if it works. You might have to etch longer to get the brass off if so. I’ve never used winks.
I have replicated everything you did here, same chemical solutions, power supply, etc. My results are not great at all, and one thing I notice is that my power supply voltage will lower as the part gets lowered into the solution. I came back to check your video, and your power supplies voltage stays put.
I have some trouble with that sometimes doing regular anodizing. The regular way is clip black to a titanium rod or I use an old fork. Then make a titanium wire hook to hook the scales. Then lower it into the solution and turn up until it reaches the color I want. If the red clip touches the solution it will mess up. I also got Whink rust remover to undo titanium color.
I love your channel bro. I think you ar going to go far with this. I also have a review channel if you get a minute check me out. I'm also just starting. Thanks brother, keep doing what your doing.
Spyderco has revised their stance as long as its reassembled to original they will accept it. Anodizing and modifying will definitely void the warranty.
Dude... use some real rubber gloves.. not those things that have visible holes on the finger tips... soooo dangerous man you're playing with high voltages
![Gunna - HIM ALL ALONG [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HiCxoDeo0hc/mqdefault.jpg)
Couple of things I noticed outside of an overall well done video...most importantly:
Be careful touching that piece with your finger tip exposed like that man...could have gotten a hefty shock. 50ish volts and under your skin will resist but above that or even in that range and you're asking for a nasty surprise.
Changing gloves after the cleaning process without touching any surface is also necessary...you're still likely transferring oils onto the piece with those reusable gloves. And that's one of the reasons your initial blue looked inconsistent. This will be less apparent due to the camo that you covered it up with, obviously, but the point still stands.
Rather than simply drying the piece off...you should swish it around in a rinse of distilled water. The etch sitting in any spot on the piece longer than any others will lead to surface inconsistencies, and or sitting on the piece as it anodizes, and thus color inconsistencies.
If you're doing knife scales...you should do them simultaneously. Especially with a power supply like yours (and mine!) that struggles with amperage...and especially in the higher voltages. Again, you did lower voltages...and weren't going for a consistent color between two scales for anything but the base layer. But try matching two pink scales...or god forbid green...while doing them separately. It won't be perfect. As an aside...doing a "hook" when you anodize multiple pieces will also cause issues if you're struggling for amperage. Loop the pieces together so that everything receives current at the same rate.
In the event that you do a bigger piece (or both scales at the same time)...you'll need a bigger anode. That wire probably has a surprising surface area - but that surface area directly correlates with how easily you can "bottom out" your amperage.
TSP-PF should be used in a smaller amount. It should definitely fully dissolve. If you ever see sparks coming from your piece on pinks/greens while doing a full part...you used too much. Which I highly suspect your solution is.
Not trying to be a negative Nancy - just sharing knowledge that I've found.
Thanks for the tips Kit!
Can you anodise a titanium intake with a power supply like he uses ?
@@rixogtr that's what he's doing...so yes?
@@Jubakuba I made a typo I'm sorry, I was meant to ask titanium intake pipe. Meaning titanium intake pipe is going to have significantly larger surface area than a small knife scale, that's why I was asking if one can use the same small power supply, would that be enough ? Isn't the PSU going to struggle or something ?
@@rixogtr Oh you're good. Yeah, it wouldn't be possible to do the whole thing in a bath. But you could paint it all a uniform color like this guy does on this bike. ruclips.net/video/KwqlhYDnLo8/видео.html
This music has me feeling like a kid playing Dr. Mario/Tetris. Beautiful ano work by the way
You inspired me to try this. I crowned the spine of the blade, acid etched and stone washed the blade and pocket clip and anodized the scales. Thanks for the great videos.
"It turned out pretty nice" is a big understatment! Turned out frickin Awesome! Thanks for the tutorial. Appreciate the details on sourcing and mixing the chemicals and the clear, concise demo. Love that camo finish. Will be trying that on a few pieces.
Common knife become a masterpiece, thanks for sharing this video and detailed instruction, thats was realy helpful.
Thanks for the video. I have been doing the battery method in my kitchen, but I am working towards a setup like yours. I learned alot from this video.
Just getting started. I hadn't thought about protecting the detent ball. Thanks!
Best anodizing tutorial I've seen so far. Thank you!
Awesome video! This helped me out big time since I wasn't sure what voltage meter tool to purchase, so thank you! The scales came out looking awesome!💯💯
This was about the coolest knife mod i have ever seen thank you sir😁
That turned out great. Looks like you made your own camo timascus pattern.
The great thing about titanium is that it can change color. A very light, sturdy material. I used titanium thread to make the keychain. If you like it please refer.
Awesome video! I have a Knifejoy exclusive chef with the blue anodized scales. They’re scratched up bad and worn to the point where they’re almost gray looking again. I’m going to re-anodized them back to the bright blue they were when new. Thank you for this video!
That is a great tutorial and really nice end results. I picked up the knife joy chef recently but man now I kinda want to play a bit
Thanks for sharing the steps, it's helps a lot, foward to see more of your work 😀 👍
Man, your content is incredible! Thank you so much for the material you’re creating! I feel like I learn a lot from your channel
Wonderful job on this video! I watched the whole thing, then wondered why you didn't just buy Multi-Etch. About 15 minutes of rabbit holing later and I understand completely. I will never comprehend why some companies make it so difficult to buy their products. It's like they're yelling at us to find an alternative.
Thanks! Yeah, you used to be able to get it from Rio Grande. It was expensive. Making it yourself is a bit of a pain, but something like 1/3 of the cost. I don’t know the logistics of storing and shipping that kind of product, maybe retailers don’t want to handle it or maybe it’s just the way the company is run, but getting it on Amazon sure would be nice...
That’s awesome! I’ve been interested in this for a while now and I think I’m going to give it a try!!
Wow .... i like your video sir ..interesting😊
That turned out really nice. Great video 👍
Bro, That was incredible! Amazing content as always! Thanks so much!
Very cool. How about a perfectly round sponge? I may try that.
Thank you for this awesome tutorial! quick question, do I need to make 1 liter of the multi-etch substitute or can I use half a liter water and half the amount of APS and NaF mentioned in your video? Would it work just as good?
As long as the concentration is the same the total amount doesn’t matter. Make whatever works best for your part/container.
Great step by step! It worked for me at home ;-)
I am so impressed with your video! Thanks so much for sharing. Love the channel!!
Nice orange peel finish with the wire wheel!
I want mine to look like that. Well done sir!!
What an incredible tutorial. You did an awesome job
I needed this
Excellent video. And a beautiful result. Bravo!
Quick question thanks, is the negative side of the circuit need to be titanium too, would steel works? How much material should there be?
Do you save and reuse the chemicals in the containers for multiple items over a period of time or do i need to dispose of it after each use. Are there safe methods for disposing of both containers that wont cause any damage.
Great video! Thank you!
great video . but why the etching ? I see some people say polish is better for brighter colors . ty for the links it makes the process a lot easier knowing exactly what you have .
Looks good. I like that real bright blue/purple blurple. What voltage you think would bring that out ?
Excellent tutorial! Thank you ❤️
That’s awesome! My knife has a carbon fiber inlay. Would it damage the carbon fiber?
So cool! Love it!
Great tutorial. I may have missed it but what purpose does the 1 minute acid bath serve?
I think I glossed right over what the use for it was. It etches the Titanium and makes the colors brighter. Not a necessity, but certainly helps. Also makes things consistent and will remove anodization.
That's how you get rid of the body...
Love it 😍❤️
Its like giving a metal a cool rainbow tattoo
Could you give some details on the power supply? 0-120v?
What kind of acid did you use?. Great video thanks
Those are sweet!
Wow great tutorial!!
Stabil!
great content!!!
Great man such a beauty
Wanting to get my “New Kizer Inversion” anodized. Being a tactical knife I want to blackout the clip/liners and doing something complementing the scales.
Are you planning on doing Mods for your viewers?
Yes, lots of other mods planned. Trying to make it through my backlog of reviews in Dec. let me know what type of mods or on what knives you want to see them on.
Thanks for the video, and the description of the alternative etch. I'm not able to buy MultiEtch in my country, so an alternative solution was welcome. One question; are you able to strip or reset the anodizing with your etch solution like you can with MultiEtch?
Great video!
nice job
In case I missed it, how does this electrical application of the color compare to the heating version, as far as residence to wear?
Very nice
Spyderco doesn't void warranty unless you mess it up putting it back together. Anodizing scales probably does void it though because it's an alteration.
Great job
Bro.... I just saw video. Where were you when I need you. I need my Ti exhaust done on bike 🏍. I wanna learn how to do this...
What are the amps set to on your machine? Is the knob just turned all the way up?
Why the acid bath necessary, what does it do?, and instead of this moisture is whink rust remover does the same effect with this solution, or doest it has to be that solution? If not what's the difference?
@The Pocket Perspective thanks for posting this, I have been researching this after finding that the Australian importer of Multi Etch was selling a 0.536Kg pack for $179 plus another $100 for shipping 😳.
So just one question, Multi Etch is used hot (like 70-80°C) but I don’t think you did that or did I miss something?
Solid!
Can I use some other material as hooks for the electrolyte bath?
The acid etching. Why is it that we do that, and for how long do you do it? Is ferric chloride suitable?
What is the name of elictric
Is it applicable to stainless steel? Hoping for your kind response. Thanks
I still don’t understand what you would need the nail polish for. Are you supposed to put it on the pivot holes so it doesn’t make them bigger?
You want the detention ball and the pivot and bearing track as smooth as possible so you protect them from the acid etch and anodizing process by painting them with an enamel paint and then when your done remove it with acetone.
Hey there, are you able to mix the electrolyte and use the same solution over and over again or do you need to mix a fresh solution every time?
Same solution will work just fine, only needs to be changed when it gets dirty
Does it work on stainless knife?
if you dip your anodized scale into an isopropyl alcohol bath, will the colour come off?
Voltage is talked about but what do you set your amperage at?
I’d like to know this too…
It’s a 3 amp machine so I’m guessing that
You don’t set the current, you set the voltage, the current will change as the part anodizes. On a supply you either chose a constant voltage or a constant current and the supply will regulate the other variable to maintain the requested voltage or current based on a variable load
What was the purpose of acid etching first?
Hi! Can I use regular TSP, instead of TSP-PF ?
Is that normal that the power supply that you put in the description only goes to 30V in its title ? Can realy find ones that go to 120V. Thanks.
You have to hit the options and select 120V. It was originally linked to that one but they have changed the options.
Is the pieces the same with steel?
Ur link to sodium fluoride is not working, where could i get that?
The knife is made of Stainless?
Awesome
Does it work with 1502dd power supply?
Reminds me of WW1 german aircraft camo.
Do you have to use the TSP?
Cool
This anodizing is paramanent or temporary 🤔
Can i do for that for shoot gun ?
Are you able to do this with Stainless?
No
Spyderco actually updated their warranty and as long as you don't mess anything up when you disassemble or reassemble the knife it doesn't void the warranty
They seem pretty hit or miss. If they feel like warrantying it they will, if you give them an out sometimes they take it and send the knife back warranty voided.
I got the setup in the video built finaly but after trying to andodize i find that i cant get more then the pivot area to anodize and thats the part i didnt touch with and wire wheel i was wondering if u have any hints or tips or fixes for this problom or anyone in the comments
I used wink as the etching solution
You may have used a brass wire wheel and coated the Ti with a thin layer. Hit the back side with a little fine sand paper and see if it works. You might have to etch longer to get the brass off if so. I’ve never used winks.
This formula sounds familiar :P
Why does my part arc when attached to a ti hanger? Thanks
Also the negative is the cathode, by running Positive current your “ANODizing”
can you teach me sir..i really beg and very grateful if you can help me
I need anodized machine
I have replicated everything you did here, same chemical solutions, power supply, etc. My results are not great at all, and one thing I notice is that my power supply voltage will lower as the part gets lowered into the solution. I came back to check your video, and your power supplies voltage stays put.
I have some trouble with that sometimes doing regular anodizing. The regular way is clip black to a titanium rod or I use an old fork. Then make a titanium wire hook to hook the scales. Then lower it into the solution and turn up until it reaches the color I want. If the red clip touches the solution it will mess up. I also got Whink rust remover to undo titanium color.
I love your channel bro. I think you ar going to go far with this. I also have a review channel if you get a minute check me out. I'm also just starting. Thanks brother, keep doing what your doing.
In using whinks… ppe includes a respirator…it’s NASTY stuff
Scotty Cranmer anyone?
If taking a knife apart voids the warranty then that's a knife not worth having!
Spyderco has revised their stance as long as its reassembled to original they will accept it. Anodizing and modifying will definitely void the warranty.
Y
Wife wheel will wreck a finger . Bunch of needles 🪡
Dude... use some real rubber gloves.. not those things that have visible holes on the finger tips... soooo dangerous man you're playing with high voltages
Do not wear gloves with a wire wheel ever