Well took me nearly a month and a dang-near complete rebuild of my printer (Anet A8), but I FINALLY got one of these to print out nicely. Trick for me was to NOT do the typical "first layer squish" (usually do a 0.18mm 1st layer @ 0.2mm layer height). When I finally changed the first layer to 0.3mm (0.2mm overall layer height), it worked out and printed quite well. Only took a little bit of effort to free ALL gears and it spins smooth. Love love love these print in place designs. Keep it up SunShine, thank you!
@@gansago78v80 As far as I can recall my settings (CURA - 4.6.1), most CURA settings for "DRAFT 0.2mm" are left alone except: 0.2mm layer height 0.3mm First layer height 0.8 wall thickness Z-Seam Alignment "sharpest corner" Infill 30% - "lines" pattern 205C for my material (hatchbox) / 60C Bed Temp Speed: 60 mm/s I left retraction on and left all retraction settings as "stock" Cooling 100% fan AFTER first layer NO SUPPORTS 5 line skirt (for nozzle prime only) I also took extra time to ensure Z-axis was level, bed was level, belts properly tightened etc. And thats about it, most everything, like I said, is the stock CURA DRAFT 0.2mm settings. After it printed, I did have to push the "knob" in and out a little to free up, but took very little for the whole thing to free up and move smoooooth. Good Luck!
Fine-tune that so it works, you're obviously smart and motivated enough. I'm going to print the box with the "Sunshine Spring" first, and then this one after that. Thanks, Sunny! New subscriber too!
Think I'm going to switch my units of measurement to a multiple of layer height... I wonder how different slicers behave in terms of where they cut (offset within layer) or do any averaging between slices? Hiding geometry in Moire patterns could be fun too.
How did you implement the " staggered layering". Was that designed in or is that a setting somewhere in your slicer? I would love to use that technique in some of my own prints. Also love the prints great work.
"a bit disappointed, to be honest" LOL just awesome. Time-outs for everyone who didn't see the box video. Too bad this isn't able to be accurate. Could attach an analog counter that triggers each revolution by a pin hitting it and hook a long handle onto it (handle for on a roller or broom) and have a long distance measuring device!
Thanks :) I mean, it should be accurate, it might just be very prone to slipping and thus not giving the correct measurement. physically there shouldn't be a reason for why its not accurate if i did my math right, but who knows ^^,
Would be useful for realtors when measuring up rooms of a house for listing as accuracy isn't critical. Maybe also for exterior cladding contractors for estimating purposes.
My CR-10 mini keeps getting all your prints locked up to where they don’t spin or work like the spring box and motor and now this. Any tips on how I can get them to print and work I’ve been really trying to show off my printer and your parts are amazing I know I just must be doing something wrong
a fidget spinner that measures in meters the amount of time wasted spinning it, brilliant!
Saw on reddit. I’m really impressed with how smooth movement print in place can allow.
Well took me nearly a month and a dang-near complete rebuild of my printer (Anet A8), but I FINALLY got one of these to print out nicely. Trick for me was to NOT do the typical "first layer squish" (usually do a 0.18mm 1st layer @ 0.2mm layer height). When I finally changed the first layer to 0.3mm (0.2mm overall layer height), it worked out and printed quite well.
Only took a little bit of effort to free ALL gears and it spins smooth.
Love love love these print in place designs.
Keep it up SunShine, thank you!
i have the anet A8 too but i printed it and i cant make it move :V can you help me pls?
@@gansago78v80 As far as I can recall my settings (CURA - 4.6.1), most CURA settings for "DRAFT 0.2mm" are left alone except:
0.2mm layer height
0.3mm First layer height
0.8 wall thickness
Z-Seam Alignment "sharpest corner"
Infill 30% - "lines" pattern
205C for my material (hatchbox) / 60C Bed Temp
Speed: 60 mm/s
I left retraction on and left all retraction settings as "stock"
Cooling 100% fan AFTER first layer
NO SUPPORTS
5 line skirt (for nozzle prime only)
I also took extra time to ensure Z-axis was level, bed was level, belts properly tightened etc.
And thats about it, most everything, like I said, is the stock CURA DRAFT 0.2mm settings.
After it printed, I did have to push the "knob" in and out a little to free up, but took very little for the whole thing to free up and move smoooooth.
Good Luck!
@@polypetalous thanks ill think i try it again
The way you're doing your videos is realy awesome to watch, thank you
I can see this guy easily crossing 200k in an year. Keep up the good work
I wonder if the thickness of the rubber band is causing the error in measuring the picnic table top.
I bet if you fiddled around with scaling for a while you could get an accurate measure.
this is the kind of content I cam here for, great work
Fine-tune that so it works, you're obviously smart and motivated enough. I'm going to print the box with the "Sunshine Spring" first, and then this one after that. Thanks, Sunny!
New subscriber too!
Awesome job! Really clever execution.
thanks :)
they call those herringbone gears. the Citroën logo is a representation of a herringbone gear.
You blow my mind with these!
This channel is so underrated! I love your designs!
Maaannn,you're good. Thank you for your generosity of sharing your knowledge. Salutations from France.
I love your videos! Well produced, cool print too!
You're a freaking genius.
oldschool trick: colored wax (i.e. crayons) in the marker indents, forget the "friction stir weld"
GENIUS!
Amazing, i like your all projects!
Print in place projects god 🙂
genius level stuff! thanks! i really like this!! great job!
Think I'm going to switch my units of measurement to a multiple of layer height... I wonder how different slicers behave in terms of where they cut (offset within layer) or do any averaging between slices? Hiding geometry in Moire patterns could be fun too.
LoL. .. love how u presented
How did you implement the " staggered layering". Was that designed in or is that a setting somewhere in your slicer? I would love to use that technique in some of my own prints. Also love the prints great work.
Well adjusted and working 3D printer like this is something like natural beauty: a gift from God!
"a bit disappointed, to be honest" LOL just awesome. Time-outs for everyone who didn't see the box video. Too bad this isn't able to be accurate. Could attach an analog counter that triggers each revolution by a pin hitting it and hook a long handle onto it (handle for on a roller or broom) and have a long distance measuring device!
Thanks :) I mean, it should be accurate, it might just be very prone to slipping and thus not giving the correct measurement. physically there shouldn't be a reason for why its not accurate if i did my math right, but who knows ^^,
@@TurboSunShine The circumference just doesn't seem to be 0.25 m? ;)
@@HerrSalat when i looked at it from an angle, it looked about right
Would be useful for realtors when measuring up rooms of a house for listing as accuracy isn't critical. Maybe also for exterior cladding contractors for estimating purposes.
looks cool
Thanks :)
Thanks for sharing this with us :D
Very clever, thanks for sharing
Meanwhile other 3d printer channels: "I 3d printed myself"
It's pretty much useless (and that's coming from a guy using a binary watch) but what a beautiful design!
Music is too loud. I like your print in place projects
Amazing.
U make cool stuff
My CR-10 mini keeps getting all your prints locked up to where they don’t spin or work like the spring box and motor and now this. Any tips on how I can get them to print and work I’ve been really trying to show off my printer and your parts are amazing I know I just must be doing something wrong
Cool
Tips for settings? I tried making the cube from hellraiser and it had a similar mechanism and didn't work
Wel wich nozzle 0.4. 0.2,?
Wow that audio is loud, good job on the print tho
can u make a video how you make gears in your cad program?
Can I 3d print a record that I can play on a record player?
i don't understand the how the asymmetrical rotating thing works :(
You could make the video longer and I would still like it and I got all explanations also in one video
Coll design, but correct me if I am wrong... if it's not accurate, then isn't is useless?
Depends on what accuracy you need.
tøff print
Cool gadget to play with but just go buy a 3.00 tape measure ;o)
I‘m the 488 viewer and the fifth commenter
Change the title of the video as "Pretty looking overcomplicated tool".
Sod this, that musics pissing me off to much.