It can be hard to remove the solder from the GND and +5v pins so if it is possible to heat up the board or use a hotter temp soldering pen, that will help out a lot. I didnt do either and I struggled with this but looking back on it, I should have used my hot air gun to heat it up a bit or turn up the temp on my pen :) Hope your repairs go well.
I love your vids man. I have horrible natural shakes and spent 37 years thinking I'd never be able to solder but between your tips on your vids and just sitting down and doing it, I am now a soldering BEAST despite the shakes. Just made a 8x8x8 LED cube for my first project! Over 3000 different soldering points and I did it..... eventually (90ish hours later). Thanks for the inspiration!
Wow, that is a pretty amazing story and congrats on accomplishing such a feat! The vids here are nothing special but If they can motivate others like yourself to even give a project a try that is cool enough. Thanks again and great job
I used to be very good at soldering and other things that needed fine motor control, but I had a stroke and all that went away. I’m still improving but I have a long ways to go still. I find your story and Luke’s videos to be inspiring, so thanks to you both.
I cleaned out a Super Nintendo that was a home for roaches at some point in it's life. Excrement everywhere it was a nightmare this video reminded me of. Isopropyl alcohol and contact cleaner saved the day. A good soak in soapy hot water helped with the plastic parts. Thanks for sharing these repair videos Luke!
(To help Luke and Others on this board. I am a huge Sega fan and this is what this board is. ) SEGA SYSTEM C-2 HARDWARE Main CPU : MC68000 @ 8.948862 Mhz Sound chip : YM3438 @ 7.670453, SN76496 @ 3.579545 Optional Sound Chip : UPD7759 @ 640 kHz Video resolution : 320x224 Hardware Features : Line-scroll , column scroll and a raster interrupt with 2 background planes, one with an option window, a sprite plane and several levels of priority Board composition : One single Jamma board. This hardware is based on the Genesis hardware, the main cpu, the sound cpu and the graphic processor are the same. The main cpu is just a bit faster 10Mhz instead of 8Mhz and there is no Z80, the sound chip is driven by the main cpu. The dac is also replace by a uPD7759, the same as the System 16 hardware. Sometimes referred to as System 14. (Hope this helps everybody. I love Sega and while not a fan of the last 20 years the previous 30 were and are totally awesome. Keep up the awesome Luke! Peace brother. ) *Note: This information other than my comments in () comes from system16 website.
Thanks a lot for the info my friend :) I also think the sega hardware is amazing and so many variants. Many of these arcade boards are the system and the game wrapped into one.
I second the need for Smell-o vision. I like the smell of Solder smoke for one thing. And those disgusting dead bugs odors sound nauseatingly enticing, kinda like popping Bertie Bott's Every Flavour beans in your mouth and being unlucky getting foul tasting ones as a consequence 😋
Thanks a lot Qki. I make quite a few unconscious mistakes, and some may say that the methodology is wrong , but being able to get the boards going in the end is much better than a broken stack for sure :) . Im glad if the vids can also provide some entertainment.
Luke, you are a hero of mine. I’ve loved your videos since the beginning of the channel, especially the “extreme” repairs. I wish someone would make a documentary of your life.
Great to see the repair. I’ve just bought my first columns arcade boards so getting a head start on my knowledge of them before I have to attempt my own repairs!
Two things I've done with stubborn solder flooded vias like those buggers you dealt with are 1. Mix new solder with the old solder then heat it up and blow it with canned air to blow the solder out and 2. If there's something like a chip lead or component leg stuck in there then get a piece of the leg of a resistor or something similar, grab it with needle nose pliers (instead of regular pliers which tend to bleed off more heat), heat the end of the lead you're holding with the pliers and push it through to hopefully push the obstruction out.
Thank you Luke for taking the time to fix this. It may just be Columns but in a world of component shortages, every piece of saved tech matters, and you gave a fighting chance to something I would have thought couldn't be saved. Excellent job!
Thanks man. I usually go over these boards with some Simple Green and scrub them down but it depends on the board. I might grab one in the future. I agree, they are very useful :)
Nice one Luke i have that board somewhere in storage, man watching your vids sure makes one want to get back in the game. hope all is good back in good ol´ Japan
Thanks a lot man, its been a long time! Hope everything is great with you and if these vids can spark just a bit of inspiration, that is cool enough. Take care
Alright!! Awesome restore work. I actually picked up a soldering tip or two. Looked like some ram-save battery exploded to damage that part of the board. (I'll just pretend that was it in lieu of roach guts and the smell of their eggs... ew.) Columns is Tetris-lite to many folks, but it's still a worthy classic and it's nice to see this dead board brought back to life. I liked this game so much back in the day, I spent the last few years tinkering together my own handheld version using an Arduino. ;)
With 4 minutes left to the video, my hope was waning. But it wouldn't be Luke if he didn't pull everything he had to fix it, hehe. Loving the recent videos, top form!
Congrats on fixing this little gem. This board was a perfect basket case for an ultrasonic cleaner with some Branson cleaning solution. It would get rid of the rest of crap under other chips as well. Super Columns (sequel to Columns) was my favorite game on Game Gear back in the day. Lots of fun. I think I've seen tons of games in the arcades over the years, but I don't think I've seen Columns in person before. I saw a cart for Game Gear, but I never knew Sega had it in the arcades as well. I guess with all the hype of Tetris, that was their shot back in 1990.
For stubborn pins I usually grab a needle with pliers, push on the via and apply heat with the iron. The solder melts, the needle goes through and unblocks the via.
Just a note for those playing at home :) Some boards that use a 74xxx chip cannot use the 74LSxxx equivalents. Defender is a prime example of it. You should always try to match the original part if you can. In some parts of Defender if you use an LS part you can experience graphics glitches. You can try it and if it works great, but if it doesn't something odd, try they same part type. Found this out the hard way :)
I would recommend adding a date in parenthesis to your title, so it would look like something like this: Sega Columns (1990) Arcade PCB Repair Just some more useful info and eye catcher. This also helps to separate the title of the game from the description and makes it more stand out :). Maybe even add "#1" or something similar in case in the future you get to repair yet another board like this, so you don't end up having the same title... or just maybe add a date (Feb. 28, 2022).
Thanks for the ideas there Mark. If I get a few of these similar boards again, I may try that numbering system you suggested. One of the good things about YT is that it doesn't let you upload the same title twice but Ill keep that in mind. Thanks again.
Sega System C-2. Similar to Mega-Drive hardware but it has a faster CPU and a uPD7759 ADPCM chip for digitized sounds. Engineer makes special pliers just for cutting component legs.
Great video as always Luke, and awesome repair! I've been following your channel for more than ten years now, and all your videos are so entertaining and interesting to watch, I've learned so much from you! :D Greetings from Italy! (ps: does Can Do Wine still exist there? :D)
Thanks a lot Nessark. If anything, that is really all they are, just for entertainment purposes. Im glad you have continued to enjoy them and greeting back at you from Japan! As for "Can Do Wine"....we shall never try that again and Im hoping it is gone by now lol.
Thank you for the kind words. I dont go in depth very much with a lot of them and try to make ones where people at home can do some simple checks/tests/repairs without expensive equipment. There is the "correct" way to do repairs with the proper tools, schematics etc, and then there is this way lol.
@@lukemorse1 hey I am self learned and as long as it works and doesnt fall apart its fine ! Just love to see and learn different failure modes and maybe if I get a broken board I would be able to fix it too ! Plus its fun having such videos up whilst fixing stuff myself
Woot! Another save! Nicely done. :) For someone like me, with no experience dealing with electronics who wants to learn, Luke, what would you suggest? How did you get started working on this sort of stuff?
To be honest, these are just simple vids to show people at home how to possibly troubleshoot a board with very crude/limited tools. If you are interested in just tinkering around, I would recommend something small at first with limited components or practicing on broken items from ebay. Getting a voltage/continuity meter and a logic probe is a good start. As mentioned in the comments section of other videos, checking for similar repairs or pictures of similar repairs online, watching a variety of videos, a bit of some trial and error etc is a good way to get started. IF you are interested in doing thing "correctly" or by the book, Looking up the circuit diagrams online, checking the pinouts and truth tables of TTL's as well as what their functions are in circuit, using an oscilloscope to see analog and digital signals etc is the way to go. These vids here are what some may disagree with but hopefully they will provide just a little bit of help to a few people :) Nevertheless, If you are able to take something that is bound to be trashed and bring it back to life, thats something to try!
lol, I visited one a few years back and made a vid on it but didnt really find a whole lot of stuff at that time. I know each place is different so trying another one might be a possibility in the future.
Sometimes sticky junk on boards that doesn't dissolve in any kind of solvent based cleaners is actually sugar.. water takes it right off.. ask me how I know..
I'm not super familliar with arcade PCB repair stuff but those eeproms usually have the little windows covered otherwise they get erased, right? but glad you were able to save another one of those boards, yeah that one looked in pretty rough shape!!
Thanks a lot Jake man. I dont work on the RC stuff anymore unfortunately but they are still a lot of fun. Unless you are living in the countryside in Japan here, finding places to race around gas powered car is a bit tricky lol.
Nice getting it working but you should have checked the eproms 1st. On a dead board I check for CPU clock and reset,then the CPU eproms. Only if those are good and the board still doesn't boot do I go looking for other bad chips. CPU ram would have been the next thing to check. Checking for bad traces is OK but swapping chips without checking them can be a waste of time since even if they appear to be in a poor state as long as the legs are good they can still function.
Yeah, there are many ways to approach these boards for sure and you mentioned some good ones but there are many ways to tackle them. I generally look for bent pins first, cut traces, lifted or cracked solder joints, clock, reset, hault, eproms and other ways. In these vids I'm trying to put a few different ideas together that are somewhat different in each video. Everyone has their own way of doing it but getting the boards going in the end is still quite satisfying no matter which way you go :) thanks again.
Hey Luke, I have a UMK3 arcade pcb that has no sound but did previously. Would the big 2200uf 16v radial capacitor, located near the big heatsink, leaking cause the no sound issue? Everything tests fine on the board when I power it up but no start-up bong or sound of any kind
If those caps are leaking it could cause some problems for sure. The amps connected to the heatsink could also be bad or broken trace etc. Try to check that the voltage is correct as on the board first as well and then replace that cap if it is leaking and remove any electrolytic fluid. Also check neighboring components for damage and see how that works. Good luck with the repair!
@@lukemorse1 Would you like to take a shot at repairing the sound? I replaced that capacitor and still have no sound. Not too comfortable going much further myself
Hello I have the same pcb, it works perfectly but it lacks a C5 capacitor in a corner!? on yours I see that the capacitor is there. what can happen to my board from being used without this capacitor?
I'm glad you showed the 10+ min battle to clear the last of the solder. It gives me reassurance for when it happens for me.
It can be hard to remove the solder from the GND and +5v pins so if it is possible to heat up the board or use a hotter temp soldering pen, that will help out a lot. I didnt do either and I struggled with this but looking back on it, I should have used my hot air gun to heat it up a bit or turn up the temp on my pen :) Hope your repairs go well.
I love your vids man. I have horrible natural shakes and spent 37 years thinking I'd never be able to solder but between your tips on your vids and just sitting down and doing it, I am now a soldering BEAST despite the shakes. Just made a 8x8x8 LED cube for my first project! Over 3000 different soldering points and I did it..... eventually (90ish hours later). Thanks for the inspiration!
beast mode love this post
Wow, that is a pretty amazing story and congrats on accomplishing such a feat! The vids here are nothing special but If they can motivate others like yourself to even give a project a try that is cool enough. Thanks again and great job
I used to be very good at soldering and other things that needed fine motor control, but I had a stroke and all that went away. I’m still improving but I have a long ways to go still. I find your story and Luke’s videos to be inspiring, so thanks to you both.
@@lukemorse1 Your videos show perseverance, patience, logic and skill. In that respect I’d argue that they are more special than you may think.👍
I cleaned out a Super Nintendo that was a home for roaches at some point in it's life. Excrement everywhere it was a nightmare this video reminded me of. Isopropyl alcohol and contact cleaner saved the day. A good soak in soapy hot water helped with the plastic parts. Thanks for sharing these repair videos Luke!
(To help Luke and Others on this board.
I am a huge Sega fan and this is what this board is. )
SEGA SYSTEM C-2 HARDWARE
Main CPU : MC68000 @ 8.948862 Mhz
Sound chip : YM3438 @ 7.670453, SN76496 @ 3.579545
Optional Sound Chip : UPD7759 @ 640 kHz
Video resolution : 320x224
Hardware Features : Line-scroll , column scroll and a raster interrupt with 2 background planes, one with an option window,
a sprite plane and several levels of priority
Board composition : One single Jamma board.
This hardware is based on the Genesis hardware, the main cpu, the sound cpu and the graphic processor are the same.
The main cpu is just a bit faster 10Mhz instead of 8Mhz and there is no Z80, the sound chip is driven by the main cpu.
The dac is also replace by a uPD7759, the same as the System 16 hardware. Sometimes referred to as System 14. (Hope this
helps everybody. I love Sega and while not a fan of the last 20 years the previous 30 were and are totally awesome. Keep up
the awesome Luke! Peace brother. ) *Note: This information other than my comments in () comes from system16 website.
Thanks a lot for the info my friend :) I also think the sega hardware is amazing and so many variants. Many of these arcade boards are the system and the game wrapped into one.
Haha..empty roms. Well, I'm sure the repairs you did were just as vital. Another win Luke, well done. Make sure you sticker those bad boys up.
We need some Smell-O-Vision in these videos.
Haha! that would be one more reason NOT to watch the video lol.
I second the need for Smell-o vision. I like the smell of Solder smoke for one thing. And those disgusting dead bugs odors sound nauseatingly enticing, kinda like popping Bertie Bott's Every Flavour beans in your mouth and being unlucky getting foul tasting ones as a consequence 😋
It would've been so satisfying to see this board dumped in a vat of isopropyl and ultrasonically cleaned. Thanks for the video.
lol, maybe some day. Thanks for watching
The good old classic Sega's Puzzle game columns I used to play this game a lot with a friend of mine who had the Sega Genesis. Amazing title
That is awesome Edgar! some classic nostalgia for sure
I really enjoy your videos when you repair and clean the pcb up while talking.
Thanks a lot Qki. I make quite a few unconscious mistakes, and some may say that the methodology is wrong , but being able to get the boards going in the end is much better than a broken stack for sure :) . Im glad if the vids can also provide some entertainment.
@@lukemorse1 "If it works, it's done".
you sir are a magician, these videos are so damn therapeutic I must admit
Thanks a million. Really glad to hear that the vids are entertaining. Ill have some more here soon :)
Luke, you are a hero of mine. I’ve loved your videos since the beginning of the channel, especially the “extreme” repairs. I wish someone would make a documentary of your life.
My God my RUclips feed has been blessed with a mad arcade scientist
Lol, just a madman I suppose haha. Thanks a lot Quinn
Made my day haha! Watching this while swapping out CPS2 batteries, that was easy-this was hard. Congrats on another save!
Glad you could restore this one. My favorite game on the Master System.
Great to see you in my subscription feed more regualry again Luke, great job as always!
Thanks Mat! I have to thank Ken for that, he gave me a bit more things to do here lol.
Great to see the repair. I’ve just bought my first columns arcade boards so getting a head start on my knowledge of them before I have to attempt my own repairs!
Fantastic work!!! Wow it was crusty under those sockets!!!
Thanks a lot as always man! the bugs that were mummified under those sockets were nasty lol. Its a bit better now though.
Réparation au top! Merci pour le partage l’ami ✌️🕹
Merci beaucoup pour les gentils mots et merci d'avoir regardé!
One of my favorite games.
I learn a lot about this.
Fantastic, thank you so much :)
Another job well done 👍🏻
Great work Luke!
Thank you so much dodgykebaab! Ill try to get some more up here soon
Really enjoying these board repairs.
Fantastic! that's all I could hope for with them. Thanks as always!
Two things I've done with stubborn solder flooded vias like those buggers you dealt with are 1. Mix new solder with the old solder then heat it up and blow it with canned air to blow the solder out and 2. If there's something like a chip lead or component leg stuck in there then get a piece of the leg of a resistor or something similar, grab it with needle nose pliers (instead of regular pliers which tend to bleed off more heat), heat the end of the lead you're holding with the pliers and push it through to hopefully push the obstruction out.
Well done!
The C37 and C40 Resistor's look like they've seen better days, might be worth a swap.
Thank you Luke for taking the time to fix this. It may just be Columns but in a world of component shortages, every piece of saved tech matters, and you gave a fighting chance to something I would have thought couldn't be saved. Excellent job!
These are all so awesome, always such a good time watching you do your thing!
Thank you so much. They arent the best way to do them but they work in these situations.
Nicely done!
Man the music for Columns was creepy as hell lol
LOL! I know right! a bit dull and dreary music and could definitely have been much more upbeat. Thanks a lot
MAN i really think it is time for you to invest in an ultrasonic cleaner device. Does miracles in boards and various mechanical parts! Nice video man!
Thanks man. I usually go over these boards with some Simple Green and scrub them down but it depends on the board. I might grab one in the future. I agree, they are very useful :)
Nice one Luke i have that board somewhere in storage, man watching your vids sure makes one want to get back in the game. hope all is good back in good ol´ Japan
Thanks a lot man, its been a long time! Hope everything is great with you and if these vids can spark just a bit of inspiration, that is cool enough. Take care
Your videos are great. I'm so glad you are putting more out. It's been too long since you have
Thanks for the kind words. Im glad they provide some entertainment and thanks for watching!
That was awesome Luke! We both hollered YES at the same time when it came up. Lol
Haha! awesome. I was really glad to see things work out here in the end
Great job again Luke 👍
Arcade Columns is saved from the electro-graveyard 🤠✌️
Thanks as always man, Really glad to have saved another board from the scrap pile. Hopefully I can get a few more of these going as well :)
Roach eggs 🍳 and rat pee! Very distinct smells you can never forget! Great results of course your amazing my friend. Enjoyed the process as always.
I know right!? such a strong specific scent. Thanks as always Kevin and really glad you liked the vid. Hope you are staying well
Alright!! Awesome restore work. I actually picked up a soldering tip or two. Looked like some ram-save battery exploded to damage that part of the board. (I'll just pretend that was it in lieu of roach guts and the smell of their eggs... ew.) Columns is Tetris-lite to many folks, but it's still a worthy classic and it's nice to see this dead board brought back to life. I liked this game so much back in the day, I spent the last few years tinkering together my own handheld version using an Arduino. ;)
With 4 minutes left to the video, my hope was waning. But it wouldn't be Luke if he didn't pull everything he had to fix it, hehe. Loving the recent videos, top form!
Haha, thank you so much Evaldas, To be honest, I wasn't sure how this was going to pan out either lol. Luckily it did though so good times.
I just spotted a muy largo roach in my kitchen drawer. Spooked me a bit. Carry on...
LOL, What! awe man, what a story. Hope there arent many more where that came from.
@@lukemorse1 Thanks! Love your work ethic and commentary. Been a fan since mid 2000s
New to the channel. Great job. Looking forward to more PCB fixes. Another one saved LOVE it.
Thanks a lot Arcade Erik and there will be a few more boards here soon.
Great vid! Loved this resurrection win!
Thank you very much! I'm also glad to have it up and running again
Congrats on fixing this little gem. This board was a perfect basket case for an ultrasonic cleaner with some Branson cleaning solution. It would get rid of the rest of crap under other chips as well.
Super Columns (sequel to Columns) was my favorite game on Game Gear back in the day. Lots of fun. I think I've seen tons of games in the arcades over the years, but I don't think I've seen Columns in person before. I saw a cart for Game Gear, but I never knew Sega had it in the arcades as well. I guess with all the hype of Tetris, that was their shot back in 1990.
Love the fist pump moment! Well done sir.
Haha! Thank you so much.
For stubborn pins I usually grab a needle with pliers, push on the via and apply heat with the iron.
The solder melts, the needle goes through and unblocks the via.
Just a note for those playing at home :) Some boards that use a 74xxx chip cannot use the 74LSxxx equivalents. Defender is a prime example of it. You should always try to match the original part if you can. In some parts of Defender if you use an LS part you can experience graphics glitches. You can try it and if it works great, but if it doesn't something odd, try they same part type. Found this out the hard way :)
Great work on the sega board, FANTASTIC! We love watching your repair vids. Keep up the good work and stay safe.
I would recommend adding a date in parenthesis to your title, so it would look like something like this:
Sega Columns (1990) Arcade PCB Repair
Just some more useful info and eye catcher. This also helps to separate the title of the game from the description and makes it more stand out :).
Maybe even add "#1" or something similar in case in the future you get to repair yet another board like this, so you don't end up having the same title... or just maybe add a date (Feb. 28, 2022).
Thanks for the ideas there Mark. If I get a few of these similar boards again, I may try that numbering system you suggested. One of the good things about YT is that it doesn't let you upload the same title twice but Ill keep that in mind. Thanks again.
Doctor Lukemorse1 Videogames and PCB MD saves yet another Arcade board from the clutches of Death's Dumpster. Huzzah! Doctor Lukemorse1 Huzzah!
HAHA! They are back alive again and saved from the dumpster so A+ there for sure. Thanks a lot Cahos
@@lukemorse1 you deserve the praise and more Luke, because of how good you are in managing to repair these classics 👍👌
Great video as always Mr. Luke. I'll be waiting a repair video with some CAPCOM board.
Haha, Ill see what I can do and thanks as always! :)
Good job getting it working!!
Thanks a lot Jan, I appreciate it
Sega System C-2. Similar to Mega-Drive hardware but it has a faster CPU and a uPD7759 ADPCM chip for digitized sounds.
Engineer makes special pliers just for cutting component legs.
Excellent info all around there! thank you for that and the info about the pliers!
Great video as always Luke, and awesome repair! I've been following your channel for more than ten years now, and all your videos are so entertaining and interesting to watch, I've learned so much from you! :D Greetings from Italy!
(ps: does Can Do Wine still exist there? :D)
Thanks a lot Nessark. If anything, that is really all they are, just for entertainment purposes. Im glad you have continued to enjoy them and greeting back at you from Japan! As for "Can Do Wine"....we shall never try that again and Im hoping it is gone by now lol.
Love your repair videos
Thank you for the kind words. I dont go in depth very much with a lot of them and try to make ones where people at home can do some simple checks/tests/repairs without expensive equipment. There is the "correct" way to do repairs with the proper tools, schematics etc, and then there is this way lol.
@@lukemorse1 hey I am self learned and as long as it works and doesnt fall apart its fine ! Just love to see and learn different failure modes and maybe if I get a broken board I would be able to fix it too ! Plus its fun having such videos up whilst fixing stuff myself
Nice, a Sega Columns pcb
Yeah, good old Sega Columns
It runs on sega system C hardware the same hardware as genesis/mega drive but with upgraded color palette to 32,768 15bit high color
Thanks a lot William!
you are the man bro, you are a gaming necromancer.
Wtg Luke love these videos keep it up dude
Thanks Thomas. Will try to get some more up soon.
Nice work, Luke. This was a good one.
Woot! Another save! Nicely done. :)
For someone like me, with no experience dealing with electronics who wants to learn, Luke, what would you suggest? How did you get started working on this sort of stuff?
To be honest, these are just simple vids to show people at home how to possibly troubleshoot a board with very crude/limited tools. If you are interested in just tinkering around, I would recommend something small at first with limited components or practicing on broken items from ebay. Getting a voltage/continuity meter and a logic probe is a good start. As mentioned in the comments section of other videos, checking for similar repairs or pictures of similar repairs online, watching a variety of videos, a bit of some trial and error etc is a good way to get started. IF you are interested in doing thing "correctly" or by the book, Looking up the circuit diagrams online, checking the pinouts and truth tables of TTL's as well as what their functions are in circuit, using an oscilloscope to see analog and digital signals etc is the way to go. These vids here are what some may disagree with but hopefully they will provide just a little bit of help to a few people :) Nevertheless, If you are able to take something that is bound to be trashed and bring it back to life, thats something to try!
That roach poo poo smell haunts me from my console repair days.
I know what you mean. So strong and just soo wrong.
again awesome job! very nice!
Thanks a lot Eddie!
Loving the repair videos, but not gonna lie waiting for a long awaited hard off video lol
lol, I visited one a few years back and made a vid on it but didnt really find a whole lot of stuff at that time. I know each place is different so trying another one might be a possibility in the future.
Nice repair!
Thanks a lot evilash570
Sometimes sticky junk on boards that doesn't dissolve in any kind of solvent based cleaners is actually sugar.. water takes it right off.. ask me how I know..
Nice, Im guessing from all the cans of soda spilled on them over the years at the arcade. Will give that a shot next time here. thanks again
I'm not super familliar with arcade PCB repair stuff but those eeproms usually have the little windows covered otherwise they get erased, right? but glad you were able to save another one of those boards, yeah that one looked in pretty rough shape!!
@27:44 a fibreglass pen is quite handy to get to shiny metal
I can't wait for legendary wings !! Hey Luke do you still work on rc cars? Like you did before back in the days
Thanks a lot Jake man. I dont work on the RC stuff anymore unfortunately but they are still a lot of fun. Unless you are living in the countryside in Japan here, finding places to race around gas powered car is a bit tricky lol.
Hell yes!; Great job mate!
Thanks a million Josh! really appreciate it man
@@lukemorse1 not a worry mate! Hopefully Japan opens up again soon! Hanging to get back over there!!
To turn on attract mode sound please seeing it in under test menu
Yes, unfortunately with the sound on it is just sound effects lol.
Saved from the grave.
Yes indeed, for this board at least :)
Nice getting it working but you should have checked the eproms 1st.
On a dead board I check for CPU clock and reset,then the CPU eproms.
Only if those are good and the board still doesn't boot do I go looking for other bad chips. CPU ram would have been the next thing to check.
Checking for bad traces is OK but swapping chips without checking them can be a waste of time since even if they appear to be in a poor state as long as the legs are good they can still function.
Yeah, there are many ways to approach these boards for sure and you mentioned some good ones but there are many ways to tackle them. I generally look for bent pins first, cut traces, lifted or cracked solder joints, clock, reset, hault, eproms and other ways. In these vids I'm trying to put a few different ideas together that are somewhat different in each video. Everyone has their own way of doing it but getting the boards going in the end is still quite satisfying no matter which way you go :) thanks again.
Nice repair your great
Thank you Tony as always. Just trying to save the boards from the trash :)
struggling at 18:08 there, I actually resort to just poking through with a toothpick for stubborn globs like that
Yes indeed. that is a really good idea for sure. I use a sewing pin sometimes and it works well too
Great video
Thank you very much Ian
And another one!! Well done!! :-)
Lol, luckily it didnt bite the dust this time.
Hey Luke, I have a UMK3 arcade pcb that has no sound but did previously. Would the big 2200uf 16v radial capacitor, located near the big heatsink, leaking cause the no sound issue? Everything tests fine on the board when I power it up but no start-up bong or sound of any kind
If those caps are leaking it could cause some problems for sure. The amps connected to the heatsink could also be bad or broken trace etc. Try to check that the voltage is correct as on the board first as well and then replace that cap if it is leaking and remove any electrolytic fluid. Also check neighboring components for damage and see how that works. Good luck with the repair!
@@lukemorse1 Would you like to take a shot at repairing the sound? I replaced that capacitor and still have no sound. Not too comfortable going much further myself
Hello
I have the same pcb, it works perfectly but it lacks a C5 capacitor in a corner!? on yours I see that the capacitor is there.
what can happen to my board from being used without this capacitor?
Another board saved from the roaches!
Lol, roach overkill. Glad this is going again though :) Thank you
thought this board looks familiar, same as Puyo Puyo?. I have one in storage
Definitely along the same lines. Cool that you have one in storage :)
Yes. It has the optional uPD7759 for digitized sound as well.
You should use solder wick with flux instead of that puny pump.
Both work well to be honest and it depends on your choice. Removing solder from the GND or +5V pins using bit more heat helps a lot.
you rock!
Thank you perrrah! you too!
First view
Congrats!
@@lukemorse1 Let me reassure you though: I do have a life, haha :)
@@gregoryvincke Haha, its all good Gregory, no worries my firend :)
Really enjoyed the video. Wish I knew why you guys insist on calling it "sodder", though.