Thank you for this video,especially the axle tip at 15:28. Ithink this is the issue I was battling yesterday on my 08 Taurus awd and had to walk away to regroup. Watched your video then. Had no issues with the right side swapout several days ago, looking fwd to completing install per you tip. Your garage floor covered with tools looks exactly like mine. Appreciate the time you took to make this video!
Just wanted to say thank you for the video.. Because My Lincoln MKT. Front strut, I was replacing and could not figure out why the struct was not comimg down. Until you showed that I have to drop the lower Control Arm. Than I was like yes. Again.. Thank you. Helping a working father save alot of money.
So , I added my comment before I got to the very end. You Sir , work miracles . 6 hours in a garage working on a Ford and at the end of it all NOT a single spot of grease or dirt on you , cool shades on and you mysteriously turned a FORD into a MERCEDES BENZ !!! hahahaha. Just kidding. I really chimed back in to let ya know I've subscribed. Appreciate Ya.
Thank you. I have been frustrated with other videos I have watched, so I try to keep in mind what I would be looking for in a video and be sure to include it for everyone else. Glad it helped you
Yes for sure, that would be great time to check them. I had already replaced those so I knew they were fine, but for anyone that hasn't done them, this would be the best chance you'll ever have
The front wheel bearing. They are a complete hub. When you have the drive shaft out just rotate the hub assembly. If they are bad you will feel them binding up, catching, or grinding.
Then you’ve never done it. Spindle removal is far from easy. Simple but not easy. Perhaps it’s different on your year model. As the strut replacement was on mine. I was prepared to spend the day replacing struts. Took 2 hours. Only because I started the removal by following instructions on an earlier model. Night and day.
Awe. That sucks I thought mine was hooped, but my brother in law was able to get it back into position. No matter how much I tried it wasn't working. He had the magic touch.
@@GearsAndTech Thanks. I wasn't able to get to it this weekend, but I did finally get to look at my parts, which had been shipped down to my sister's place where I do my bigger repair jobs, and the suspension on my '13 MKT is different than the front suspension on your earlier Flex. The strut is bolted to the knuckle via a bracket with 2 large bolts. You do have to take off the axle nut and drive the axle out so that the knuckle can tilt forward to release the bracket, but I shouldn't need to pull my control arm, which is a big relief.
So, I have the new strut assembly in the knuckle attached to the lower control arm. #1 get strut loosely bolted up top. #2 slide cv axel in. #3 insert lower control arm? Its giving me a hell of a time.
It's a whole lot easier to take control arm off shoulder put in the back bushing then the strut with shoulder reattach ball joint then use a jack to push the front bushing in place
Why didn't show how to remove the strut from the knuckle? That's the hardest part and I'm now stuck because I got the nut off but can't get the bolt out as it's easy to strip the bolt head. Do you just knock this part out with a hammer or is the inside threaded all the way through?
It's been a while, but I think I banged the bolt till the head was out. Then I put a wrench in between the head of the bolt and strut and just turned the bolt while I leveraged the wrench to pry Hard to explain. But it's a trick that works all the time
@@GearsAndTech I figured it out. I ended up having to use a torch and cut the screw in half with the little space I had between the knuckle. Then knocked the screw halfs out in opposite directions. Thankfully the driver side screw came out with 0 issues though.
What brand did you end up buying and would you recommend after driving with them installed? I'm looking at a front and rear kit made by TRQ as well as a kit from Detroit Axle. Not sure which to go with, but I'll definitely be using this video for the install. Thanks!
The ones I used were from ebay. I spent a little extra because the were the only ones that said they work on 2009, which is different than 2010+ Theu ended up sending me 2010+ anyway, which meant I had to swap the end links for 2010+ and modify the sway bar. I'll be putting that video up soon If you have 2010+ then go for whatever fits your budget. I think they are all pretty much the same until you get into name brand stuff.
@@GearsAndTech ok thanks. I have a 2011 limited that I love, but for some reason it just eats tires. I just put on my second set within a year's time. The ones I took off had major wear on the inside and outside edges. I have a steering wheel shutter on the highway (around 70-80mph), but from what I can tell, all of my front end looks in tact. My tie rod ends have no play, none of the bushings are blown out, and none of the wheels have any play side/side or up/ down. I've got brand new tires, balanced, alignment, and the shake is still there. I'm taking a shot in the dark that it needs struts but don't really know for sure. Just trying to prevent blowing through another round of tires.
Inside AND outside usually means under inflated tires. If it was just inside or outside I would look at suspension. Warped rotors could cause the steering wheel shake too. Does it get worse when braking? That much shake would be bent rims, not balance good, really bad tie rods or suspension bits (usually clunks over bumps too), or warped rotors.
@@GearsAndTech it's weird, man. Sometimes there is no shake at all when braking, and sometimes the shake is there. Maybe I should replace all the rotors first before diving that deep into the strut job. Couple friends of mine also mentioned brakes or a possible caliper sticking, but I never smell brakes or have any glaze on the rotors. Who knows, man hahaha. I definitely have something going on though.
I used to have a van that the rotors would warp going down long hills and riding the brakes slightly. The steering wheel would shake violently. I switched to cross drilled rotors and all my problems went away It only happened after riding the brakes for a long time. You could simulate a hill by driving down the highway and have your left foot on the brake to warm them up. You could try that too. The flex is notorious for sticking rear brakes. Which I did a video on how to fix. I never got a shake, mine just had poor gas mileage and brake dust on the wheel. Since yours is causing the tires to wear quickly on the front then it's for sure the front. I would test the highway with the brake on trick. If it happens a lot you can check the run out on your rotors with a dial indicator on a magnetic base. Or just buy the slotted rotors anyway and put new ceramic pads on and see what happens.
2014 flex 30 min a side for front struts. Top nuts removed with tires on the ground. Raise it carefully remove tire remove lower strut mounting hardware. Easy peasy lemon squeezy Shop wanted $1800. Keep your fingers Don’t mess around. Get the quick strut assembly.
I would disconnect the lower control arm at the frame, and the steering arm then swing the suspension out enough to get the axle out. You don't want to be splitting ball joints or anything whenever possible. They tend to break easy
Did the new strut assembly’s come with new washers for the sway bar link? I had new struts, but no new washers and now there is a 1/4” gap of play where the sway bar link bolt goes through the strut. So I’m wondering if yours came with those washers. Thanks
Sounds like you had the problem I had, you have a 2007 and your links have a taper to them. If thays the case you need to get 2008+ sway bar links and install those. Your sway bar will need the holes ground out a little bigger to accept the new links. I made a seperate video showing that.
@@GearsAndTech thanks so much! So I have a 2009, but yeah the sway bars don’t fit right. So I need to get 2008+ and ground out in order to accept the new ones? Thanks
How did you clock or figure out to clock the strut? During an alignment adjustment instructions for camber says to on rotate 180 degrees.. 3 or 9 o'clock.
It only goes in one way. If you wanted to clock it to see if it makes a difference you leave the bottom attached and rotate the top I got an alignment done at a shop after and they did whatever they needed to get it all within spec
Turned out the struts they shipped were for 2010+ flexs So, I just bought 2010+ sway bar links and installed those. Solved the problem completely. I made a video how to modify the sway bar to accept the links. It'll be uploaded in the next week or so
@@esp68camaross33 Yes, Hopefully you found the video I just put up showing How I did that. You're on the same journey I was on with mine. Hopefully you don't arrive at the same conclusion I did about the Ford Flex in General
For the stabilizer links, what would happen if one were to use a 7mm hex head that fit into a screw bit attachment which fit into a 1/4” ratchet, and rather than use a wrench to tighten the nut, put a wrench on the nut and used the small ratchet to spin the centre bolt left to tighten the nut? Would that ruin something?
Okay. Im doing the exact same job. You mentioned the control arm bolt with lock tite. How did you get it out? The nut i thought was welded to the frame but its not and i am on day five of trying to figure out how to get it out. Please help. Any advice
Is there a reference mark on the new strut so you know how far to slide it into the knuckle before tightening the pinch bolt? So both sides are even or it's at the proper height?
@@GearsAndTech I just did the rear. Doing these tomorrow. I think they could have made a easier way in the design to change these knowing they will fail eventually. Got 250 thou out of mine. Thanks for the very helpful how to video.
Could you have just replaced the front lower rear bushing instead of the whole control arm? I was looking at my 2009 flex and think it needs replaced.. have quite a clunk when hitting a bump. Maybe part strut related also. 2009 flex 150k miles. Sway bars replaced, tie rod replaced, ball joints check out ok.
@@GearsAndTech I seen a youtube video after yours where the guy changed the bushing only, then seen on rockauto.com that the bushing can be purchased. Seems alot better if i can do that than spend $300 for a motorcraft control arm
@@scottpolenske9224 personally I don't like doing a job twice. If the bushing needs replaced then odds are The ball joint will soon. So I prefer to do it all at once But, yes it does look like you can do just the bushing if you wanted.
@@scottpolenske9224 Have any information about that installation process video? I don't like having to replace an entire control arm when it's just the bushing that bad either. Also, I would rather replace the bushing and ball joint than a whole control arm as it's way cheaper than replacing the entire thing.
Excellent question. I don't remember an arrow. It was a while ago when I did it I didn't turn them at all. And made sure the tab for the sway bar link was facing in towards the fender.
Yes, but not nearly as many of them.... You should be able to just follow the directions as far as getting the axle nut off. Then stop there. Remove the lower ball joint. That should allow enough movement to get the axle pushed out. It shouldn't be too bad.
If the bolt is out all the way it should slide out If not, put a flat blad into the crack where the bolt was sinched down and pry it open a little It should slide right out
Half of this work isn’t necessary. Iv done this job 4 times. You don’t need to remove any brake parts. Just remove the forward control arm bolt and the axle nut. That gives you plenty of slack to smack the assembly off the bottom of the strut. Undo the top four nuts last and the strut will fall off.
@@GearsAndTech I just replaced both front struts on a 2011 Flex today. I never touched the brakes. In this order: remove the upper stabilizer nut. Remove the strut pinch bolt. Remove the forward control arm bolt and pry the control arm down. Loosen the axle nut all the way but leave it on and tap it inward. Remove the antilock brake grommet from the strut. Tap on that portion of the assembly that was clamped to the strut until it’s free. Remove the top four nuts under the hood and the strut just falls out. Putting the new one in will require a little prying, tapping, and shoving, but once the strut is partially in, you just put a jack under the assembly and slide it together.
@@yelwingyou should've done on video on this. But if you need to remove the control arms this video is good. Just gotta figure out a way to not pull the CV Axle out of it's socket the way he did at around 15:10.
That's the way to complicate things and risk to ruin your cv axle, I wonder WHY doing this way. Following the workshop manual is way quicker easier and safe. Disconnect the ball joint fron the knuckle, then the cv axle and sway bar link and voilà you can remove just the strut an knuckle in one unit. And it's approximately 1 hour job for both sides.
Thanks for stopping by Can you tell me which steps the workshop manual says to do? I can't see any other way to do this. The cv needs to come off to drop the strut out. There isn't enough suspension play for the lower control arm to stay in
Thank you for stopping by I did this job with a focus on only what needed to be done Off camera I tried to skip steps and what is shown here is what I had to do
Ya can't get control arm off. the nut is just spinning with the bolt had to cut it off and get a new nut and bolt so thanks for not showing how to get that part off everything else was fine
Thanks so much for the video tutorial! I swapped out shocks n struts AND lower control arms today! It took me 5hrs...so appreciative!!
glad it helped. The job is not hard, but it does take more work than most strut replacements.
Humans love cars and they are always broke! I see big success for this channel!
Thanks for the kind words.
Fantastic video thanks. This is the only video on how to do the ecoboost struts. Same applies to the Taurus sho
Thank you for this video,especially the axle tip at 15:28. Ithink this is the issue I was battling yesterday on my 08 Taurus awd and had to walk away to regroup. Watched your video then. Had no issues with the right side swapout several days ago, looking fwd to completing install per you tip. Your garage floor covered with tools looks exactly like mine. Appreciate the time you took to make this video!
Just wanted to say thank you for the video.. Because My Lincoln MKT. Front strut, I was replacing and could not figure out why the struct was not comimg down. Until you showed that I have to drop the lower Control Arm. Than I was like yes. Again.. Thank you. Helping a working father save alot of money.
Glad it helped
So much attention to detail . VERY appreciated. Very straight forward and direct .
Thank You Sir.
So , I added my comment before I got to the very end. You Sir , work miracles . 6 hours in a garage working on a Ford and at the end of it all NOT a single spot of grease or dirt on you , cool shades on and you mysteriously turned a FORD into a MERCEDES BENZ !!! hahahaha. Just kidding. I really chimed back in to let ya know I've subscribed. Appreciate Ya.
Thank you. I have been frustrated with other videos I have watched, so I try to keep in mind what I would be looking for in a video and be sure to include it for everyone else. Glad it helped you
Great video. When the whole unit is on the ground check your wheel bearings they should turn smooth. Easy replacement then.
Yes for sure, that would be great time to check them. I had already replaced those so I knew they were fine, but for anyone that hasn't done them, this would be the best chance you'll ever have
What wheel bearings
The front wheel bearing. They are a complete hub. When you have the drive shaft out just rotate the hub assembly. If they are bad you will feel them binding up, catching, or grinding.
Then you’ve never done it. Spindle removal is far from easy. Simple but not easy. Perhaps it’s different on your year model. As the strut replacement was on mine. I was prepared to spend the day replacing struts. Took 2 hours. Only because I started the removal by following instructions on an earlier model. Night and day.
Thumbs up if you are here because your Ford Flex rides like a truck and you hope new shocks will smooth out the ride.
Thanks for this video! Doing this job next week on my off days.
Good luck!
Great walkthrough, this is very much appreciated!
Hope it helped you. Be sure to subscribe so you can catch all our other videos when they come out
Yeah unfortunately on mine. Could not get my CV axle to corporate. Its bad. So waiting on part😢. Thanks for the video.
Awe. That sucks
I thought mine was hooped, but my brother in law was able to get it back into position. No matter how much I tried it wasn't working.
He had the magic touch.
Thanks. I have to do this job on my Lincoln MKT this weekend. Hopefully I don't find that I need control arms, but it won't surprise me if I do.
Good luck!
@@GearsAndTech Thanks. I wasn't able to get to it this weekend, but I did finally get to look at my parts, which had been shipped down to my sister's place where I do my bigger repair jobs, and the suspension on my '13 MKT is different than the front suspension on your earlier Flex. The strut is bolted to the knuckle via a bracket with 2 large bolts. You do have to take off the axle nut and drive the axle out so that the knuckle can tilt forward to release the bracket, but I shouldn't need to pull my control arm, which is a big relief.
Thanks great walk thru video.
Glad you enjoyed it
So, I have the new strut assembly in the knuckle attached to the lower control arm. #1 get strut loosely bolted up top. #2 slide cv axel in. #3 insert lower control arm? Its giving me a hell of a time.
I couldn't get it back together tried todo it the quick way thanks for video
Which part wasn't going back together? is that the CV axle splitting?
Dude your good. Thank you
Thanks for the compliment. Hope you check out some of our other content. We have another huge road trip coming up that I'm sure you'll enjoy
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it.
Make sure to subscribe
It's a whole lot easier to take control arm off shoulder put in the back bushing then the strut with shoulder reattach ball joint then use a jack to push the front bushing in place
Could be. Glad you found a Esier way
Why didn't show how to remove the strut from the knuckle? That's the hardest part and I'm now stuck because I got the nut off but can't get the bolt out as it's easy to strip the bolt head. Do you just knock this part out with a hammer or is the inside threaded all the way through?
It's been a while, but I think I banged the bolt till the head was out. Then I put a wrench in between the head of the bolt and strut and just turned the bolt while I leveraged the wrench to pry
Hard to explain. But it's a trick that works all the time
@@GearsAndTech I figured it out. I ended up having to use a torch and cut the screw in half with the little space I had between the knuckle. Then knocked the screw halfs out in opposite directions. Thankfully the driver side screw came out with 0 issues though.
What brand did you end up buying and would you recommend after driving with them installed?
I'm looking at a front and rear kit made by TRQ as well as a kit from Detroit Axle.
Not sure which to go with, but I'll definitely be using this video for the install.
Thanks!
The ones I used were from ebay. I spent a little extra because the were the only ones that said they work on 2009, which is different than 2010+
Theu ended up sending me 2010+ anyway, which meant I had to swap the end links for 2010+ and modify the sway bar. I'll be putting that video up soon
If you have 2010+ then go for whatever fits your budget. I think they are all pretty much the same until you get into name brand stuff.
@@GearsAndTech ok thanks.
I have a 2011 limited that I love, but for some reason it just eats tires.
I just put on my second set within a year's time.
The ones I took off had major wear on the inside and outside edges.
I have a steering wheel shutter on the highway (around 70-80mph), but from what I can tell, all of my front end looks in tact.
My tie rod ends have no play, none of the bushings are blown out, and none of the wheels have any play side/side or up/ down.
I've got brand new tires, balanced, alignment, and the shake is still there.
I'm taking a shot in the dark that it needs struts but don't really know for sure.
Just trying to prevent blowing through another round of tires.
Inside AND outside usually means under inflated tires.
If it was just inside or outside I would look at suspension.
Warped rotors could cause the steering wheel shake too. Does it get worse when braking?
That much shake would be bent rims, not balance good, really bad tie rods or suspension bits (usually clunks over bumps too), or warped rotors.
@@GearsAndTech it's weird, man.
Sometimes there is no shake at all when braking, and sometimes the shake is there.
Maybe I should replace all the rotors first before diving that deep into the strut job.
Couple friends of mine also mentioned brakes or a possible caliper sticking, but I never smell brakes or have any glaze on the rotors.
Who knows, man hahaha.
I definitely have something going on though.
I used to have a van that the rotors would warp going down long hills and riding the brakes slightly. The steering wheel would shake violently.
I switched to cross drilled rotors and all my problems went away
It only happened after riding the brakes for a long time.
You could simulate a hill by driving down the highway and have your left foot on the brake to warm them up.
You could try that too.
The flex is notorious for sticking rear brakes. Which I did a video on how to fix. I never got a shake, mine just had poor gas mileage and brake dust on the wheel.
Since yours is causing the tires to wear quickly on the front then it's for sure the front.
I would test the highway with the brake on trick.
If it happens a lot you can check the run out on your rotors with a dial indicator on a magnetic base. Or just buy the slotted rotors anyway and put new ceramic pads on and see what happens.
Good job!! thank you so much 👍
Our pleasure!
I'm getting ready todo the same job, wondering how those struts are holding up? Not sure if I should spend the extra money for the name brand struts?
I sold the car about 6 months after changing the struts. They were holding up fine then
Nice work man
Thanks. Don't forget to subscribe. There is a lot more great content coming
2014 flex 30 min a side for front struts. Top nuts removed with tires on the ground. Raise it carefully remove tire remove lower strut mounting hardware. Easy peasy lemon squeezy Shop wanted $1800.
Keep your fingers Don’t mess around. Get the quick strut assembly.
I need to swap out my axles on my flex! What do you recommend as the fastest route without having to take apart too much?? Thank you.
I would disconnect the lower control arm at the frame, and the steering arm then swing the suspension out enough to get the axle out.
You don't want to be splitting ball joints or anything whenever possible. They tend to break easy
@@GearsAndTech thank you very much!! Much appreciated
Did the new strut assembly’s come with new washers for the sway bar link? I had new struts, but no new washers and now there is a 1/4” gap of play where the sway bar link bolt goes through the strut. So I’m wondering if yours came with those washers. Thanks
Sounds like you had the problem I had, you have a 2007 and your links have a taper to them.
If thays the case you need to get 2008+ sway bar links and install those.
Your sway bar will need the holes ground out a little bigger to accept the new links. I made a seperate video showing that.
@@GearsAndTech thanks so much! So I have a 2009, but yeah the sway bars don’t fit right. So I need to get 2008+ and ground out in order to accept the new ones? Thanks
My lower strut bolt is stuck and won’t come out what can I do cause on the strut said do not heat
How did you clock or figure out to clock the strut? During an alignment adjustment instructions for camber says to on rotate 180 degrees.. 3 or 9 o'clock.
It only goes in one way.
If you wanted to clock it to see if it makes a difference you leave the bottom attached and rotate the top
I got an alignment done at a shop after and they did whatever they needed to get it all within spec
I’m I in doing this to my 2015 Flex... how different could it be? What about torque recommendations for different spots?
Should be the same
Did you need an alignment after all was done?
Yes.
what did you find out about the sway bar link mount issue of being loose
Turned out the struts they shipped were for 2010+ flexs
So, I just bought 2010+ sway bar links and installed those. Solved the problem completely.
I made a video how to modify the sway bar to accept the links. It'll be uploaded in the next week or so
@@GearsAndTech bought the newer sway bar links and had to drill out the sway bar holes bigger to make them fit. thanks for the video helped alot!
@@esp68camaross33 Yes, Hopefully you found the video I just put up showing How I did that. You're on the same journey I was on with mine.
Hopefully you don't arrive at the same conclusion I did about the Ford Flex in General
For the stabilizer links, what would happen if one were to use a 7mm hex head that fit into a screw bit attachment which fit into a 1/4” ratchet, and rather than use a wrench to tighten the nut, put a wrench on the nut and used the small ratchet to spin the centre bolt left to tighten the nut? Would that ruin something?
Sounds legit. Let me know how it goes
Okay. Im doing the exact same job. You mentioned the control arm bolt with lock tite. How did you get it out? The nut i thought was welded to the frame but its not and i am on day five of trying to figure out how to get it out. Please help. Any advice
A long breaker bar with a pipe on the end is what I used.
@@GearsAndTech yea i did that and the nut is stuck on the other side.
Is there a reference mark on the new strut so you know how far to slide it into the knuckle before tightening the pinch bolt? So both sides are even or it's at the proper height?
it will only go in at one height.
@@GearsAndTech I just did the rear. Doing these tomorrow. I think they could have made a easier way in the design to change these knowing they will fail eventually. Got 250 thou out of mine. Thanks for the very helpful how to video.
Doing this tomorrow.
I wish you luck on this. Its a lot to do, but if you just go one step at a time you should be fine
Be sure to check back in and let us know how it went. Did the video help? Anything you encountered that wasnt covered?
Could you have just replaced the front lower rear bushing instead of the whole control arm? I was looking at my 2009 flex and think it needs replaced.. have quite a clunk when hitting a bump. Maybe part strut related also. 2009 flex 150k miles. Sway bars replaced, tie rod replaced, ball joints check out ok.
No, they come as a complete assembly.
I don't think they are even pressed in. It seems like that bushing is poured in and allowed to dry in place.
@@GearsAndTech I seen a youtube video after yours where the guy changed the bushing only, then seen on rockauto.com that the bushing can be purchased. Seems alot better if i can do that than spend $300 for a motorcraft control arm
@@scottpolenske9224 personally I don't like doing a job twice.
If the bushing needs replaced then odds are The ball joint will soon. So I prefer to do it all at once
But, yes it does look like you can do just the bushing if you wanted.
@@GearsAndTech makes sence.
@@scottpolenske9224 Have any information about that installation process video? I don't like having to replace an entire control arm when it's just the bushing that bad either. Also, I would rather replace the bushing and ball joint than a whole control arm as it's way cheaper than replacing the entire thing.
How did you remove the ball joint nut?
Usually my impact can get those off
Could you provide the torque specs for this job? Would this be the same for the 2008 Taurus X AWD?
Yes it is the same job.
I'm sorry, I don't have torque specs.
Did put 2009 struts back on
No, I put 2010+ struts on, sway bar links, sway bar bushings and made videos showing the whole thing
So what direction does the mark on the top of the strut mount face/ point?
Doing My 2009 flex tomorrow.
Excellent question. I don't remember an arrow. It was a while ago when I did it
I didn't turn them at all. And made sure the tab for the sway bar link was facing in towards the fender.
@@GearsAndTech ...thanks, it’s not an arrow but more of a mark. I’ll look for more info.
Do I do similar steps to change out the cv axle on both sides
Yes, but not nearly as many of them.... You should be able to just follow the directions as far as getting the axle nut off. Then stop there. Remove the lower ball joint. That should allow enough movement to get the axle pushed out.
It shouldn't be too bad.
How do you remove the strut once all disassembled i remove the sinch bolt but cant get the actual strut out the arm housing
If the bolt is out all the way it should slide out
If not, put a flat blad into the crack where the bolt was sinched down and pry it open a little
It should slide right out
@@GearsAndTech thanks ended up figuring it out thanks for the help!
Half of this work isn’t necessary. Iv done this job 4 times.
You don’t need to remove any brake parts. Just remove the forward control arm bolt and the axle nut. That gives you plenty of slack to smack the assembly off the bottom of the strut. Undo the top four nuts last and the strut will fall off.
Some of these steps were done to save weight trying to balance everything
But also, to swap the strut you need the brakes off
@@GearsAndTech I just replaced both front struts on a 2011 Flex today. I never touched the brakes. In this order: remove the upper stabilizer nut. Remove the strut pinch bolt. Remove the forward control arm bolt and pry the control arm down. Loosen the axle nut all the way but leave it on and tap it inward. Remove the antilock brake grommet from the strut. Tap on that portion of the assembly that was clamped to the strut until it’s free. Remove the top four nuts under the hood and the strut just falls out. Putting the new one in will require a little prying, tapping, and shoving, but once the strut is partially in, you just put a jack under the assembly and slide it together.
@@yelwingyou should've done on video on this. But if you need to remove the control arms this video is good. Just gotta figure out a way to not pull the CV Axle out of it's socket the way he did at around 15:10.
That's the way to complicate things and risk to ruin your cv axle, I wonder WHY doing this way. Following the workshop manual is way quicker easier and safe. Disconnect the ball joint fron the knuckle, then the cv axle and sway bar link and voilà you can remove just the strut an knuckle in one unit. And it's approximately 1 hour job for both sides.
Thanks for stopping by
Can you tell me which steps the workshop manual says to do?
I can't see any other way to do this. The cv needs to come off to drop the strut out. There isn't enough suspension play for the lower control arm to stay in
2013 flex has completely different struts.
You don't have to fool with half that to do that job
Thank you for stopping by
I did this job with a focus on only what needed to be done
Off camera I tried to skip steps and what is shown here is what I had to do
Ya can't get control arm off. the nut is just spinning with the bolt had to cut it off and get a new nut and bolt so thanks for not showing how to get that part off everything else was fine
Sorry, I didnt encounter that problem. Glad you got it all sorted!
N MC
No
Thanks
This job was absolutely terrible.
It's the worst job ever. Really stupid that you have to do so much just to change the struts