Well done video I enjoyed the comparison. If I was going to get one for free it would have to be the V3, but if I was going to buy one it would have to be the KE. Thank you for your videos.
KE any day! I bought one in December and has done more prints than I care to count. I couldnt be happier! It just worked out the box! Oh and I am new to 3D printing.
So microcenter currently has the CR 10 SE for sale at just $10 more than the Ender 3 V3 KE. At this price point, which one would you recommend? Your video suggests the CR 10 SE just performs worse than the KE, even though the CR 10 SE has better specs on paper (linear rails, included accelerometer for input shaping).
I was shocked myself but yes the KE does produce faster and cleaner prints than the CR10. If you noticed the price has continued to drop on the CR10SE. It started out as a $399 printer and then has steadily dropped over the past 8 months. The KE is usually $259 to $299 and has been since it's release. You can pick up an CR10SE for $269 at Microcenter. The CR10SE is a good printer don't get me wrong. It just doesn't live up to it's specs. The CR10SE does have better dimensional accuracy over the KE and has a better build quality. But I would still pick the KE over the CR10SE.
I have an Ender 3 V3 SE, and I would like to know the difference between it running with Marlim and with Klipper, I've looked for several videos and I can't find it. I wanted to know if it improves speed, quality and everything else. because I'm thinking about making this modification to it. but I can't find the benefits of this modification.
Klipper is a web based UI that allows you to unlock he FULL potential of your printer by allowing YOU to calibrate and change your printers configurations along with remote access. Whether that be by pushing your current setup harder and faster then it was designed for or adding modifications with new setting that need to be changed in the printers Configuration files. It also allows for input shaping which compensates for the vibrations your printer naturally makes reducing ghosting and artifacts. You can use KAMP, an advanced bed leveling tool in Klipper. Remotely access your computer and hookup cameras for remote viewing and timelapses. Increasing your printers temperature mins and maxs. PID tuning for your nozzle and bed for more stable temperatures. Easiest way to think about it is as a TV remote control. Your printer has a BASIC (Marlin) numbers only type remote control. No options button, no mute, no input setting button, no directional arrows, no pic and picture button. Just numbers, channel/volume up and down along with a power button. THE BASICS. With Klipper someone has now handed you a SMART remote with a screen attached to it (Not a Universal Remote! A SMART remote). You have way more buttons and you now have access to utilize everything your TV is capable of that you weren't able to access before. Basically it gives you all the OPTIONS you would ever need to tune or modify your printer before and after modifications along with alot of other cool featured. I have never met someone who went to Klipper and went Back to Marlin.
@@3DandTeePrinting thank you very much !!!The explanation was excellent.I have Another question, is it better to use the Sonic pad to put the Kliper on or use a Raspberry or can I use an old laptop that I have sitting here?
I have the same issue but only with certain filaments. It's weird. Hyper-PLA, no issues. I sometimes use Slant 3D's Tangled Filament and I get that line. Very strange.
Still trying to work that one out. It's not unlocked or rooted yet. Once it is able to, I will be able to do more testing and figure it out. It comes and goes as well. I will keep you updated once I find the answer.
On paper the CR 10SE look more robust and faster LIKE the linear rail bed & dual z axis etc so which one should i go with Cr10se or v3 KE as i am getting both at same price
KE has been more consistent for me personally but once you tune the CR10-SE it is more dimensional ACCURATE. I have spent more time and firmware updates with the V3 and I have to say it's a really good machine. If you have a Microcenter near you they have the V3 for $279 now on sale.
The Enclosures are used for High Temp Materials. They need the heat in the chamber as well. You would leave the front flap open printing in PETG/PLA/TPU and closed for ABS/PA/PC. It is always better to have a carbon air filter but you can print without one successfully. BUT you will have some VOC'S that are emitted during printing that SHOULD be captured by filter. I have 2 large room air purifiers I run in the shop. The HEAT won't be your problem it's THE VOC'S. Keep in mind the SE was modified so it now can NOW print high temp. Stock it is not recommended.
@haven-hw2wl K1 Hotend Swap. Will allow for 300c on the Nozzle. You will have to alter you Printer.cfg file to reflect the new temps or else it won't get above 265c.
Badass video! So the KE beats the Flashforge Adventurer 5m still? I'm having a tough time deciding between the two lol. The flashforge is so tempting since I currently own a V3 SE already.
@cagerage21 You got 3 good printers there to chose from. 5M PRO: very nice Machine Not a Huge Community Behind it but a good printer KE: Great Middle Range Printer. Get more for less printer. Not as stable as a CORE XY printer like the 5MPRO or K1. Will need to purchase or build an enclosure to do high temp materials. K1: Good printer (new versions not older used ones) has the second largest build Height at 250mm (220 on 5M and 260 on KE). Beds have been known to be misaligned from factory regardless of when it was built. You really can't go wrong with either one. If it was me, Based on MY needs I would go with a K1 (already have 2 and K1 Max). But remember it's what YOU need. If your not going to be doing high temp materials anytime soon get the KE. If you need the high temp go with the K1 only because of rhe build area and larger community. Again YOU can't really pick a bad one from your list. YOU just have to make sure it's right for YOU. CORE XY or Bedslinger? Then HIGH TEMP material needs? That should give YOU some direction.
Beautiful vidéo and good job for us. Thank you. Just a litle question for the box, you don't need support ? Sorry for my bad englidh... I'm french. Have a nice Day.
I have the k1 max, Qidi X Max 3, and the Ender 3 v3 KE. KE is the goat for me in reliability. It just works without really trying the others I have to spend more time specifically the k1 max. I have had to really concentrate on the k1 max.
Glad your enjoying the KE. My Max is brand new and been printing pretty good so fat. Just finished a full sized airless Basketball with no issues. Hope you get it running right soon. I got faith you can get it fixed.
Kind of don’t want to spend more than 200 on my first printer. Trying to decide between the ender v3 se and the ankermade m5c. Is the ke worth the extra money?
@@jaysdub Yes. The KE is running Klipper out of the Box and has more functionality over the M5C. Full Disclosure I am completely bias on the Ankermake Brand as my experiences with them has been horrible. But some people do enjoy printing with them. I myself do not recommend them (EVER). Your more then Welcome to check in on our M5C's adventures with @thatguywhomakes. We gave it to him to enjoy.
@@3DandTeePrinting thank you for the reply. I wonder if problems like yours are the reason they are half the price they were a year ago. I think I’ll shell out a little more and get the KE.
@@jaysdub Just be advised Do Not Top Mount the Filament Spool Holder. The Gantry has narrow extrusions and has a tendency to wobble on the KE and SE when you run the spool ontop. There are alot of printable side mounts with filament guides that will rectify that little hiccup. Very simple fix that really improves print quality.
You DON'T want to top mount on a machine like this. Placing it on top WILL effect the input shaping and stability. The side mount in this video is NOT the one that comes with the machine. The v3 stock spool holder makes the printer too wide for a standard enclosure. It IS needed for full spools though. When the printer homes (top of gantry for XZ printer) it unwinds a good amount of filament going up. When it comes back down the filament can tangle around itself without that spool holder design. Personally I like the design of the stock holder (Not the cheap 3d printed look it has. Probably why it comes with the STL files to print the replacement parts for it). I just wish it was parallel to the side and not perpendicular. That way it would be SLIMMER footprint.
I can really say I have had any issues on my se I really love this printer for begging my 1st i want the ke but i went wit the se to upgrade down the road and its printed everything i have throw at it the bed build size is a problem but you can always cut the prints to make big ones
Slow it down in your slicer under overhang speed. I usually print outer walls at 100-120mm/s on the outer walls and haven't had any issues with overhangs at all.
Too early too tell. Both are running pretty good right now. It's only been out for 40 days. I only have 200ish hours on the V3. The KE has been rock solid on Jello (sorry couldn't help it) for more then 400 hours. Still need to stabilize the gantey like I did on the SE (aka DIablo) but otherwise printing pretty good.
Older K1'S DID have issues with the extruder being made of Aluminum and bending internal gears. They revised it (got one of the 2nd revisions) and switched to a new Extruder made of steel internals. They did another revision and changed the filament gear switch that engages the gears (got one of those too). Then they made the K1C which was SUPPOSE to fix any if the remaining issues with the extruder with the 🦄 "unicorn" nozzle. I too have heard there are now issue with the unicorn nozzle setup on the K1C still allowing for filament to creep out of the sides of the heater block along the filament path but I personally have not seen or experienced that since I don't have a K1C. The V3 extruder has a different head from the K1 and K1C but MAY share the same extruder I am not sure. No issues so far with the V3.
For this I used Creality Slicer and the Printer preset profiles it has to make it fair. But I normally use Orcaslicer and build my own profiles through tunings. The SE and KE I have better profiles but I wanted to use what "most" new users will use when they get a Creality Printer.
@@3DandTeePrinting oooh don't get me wrong, I TOTALLY could notice, I just didn't wanted to make it the subject because it was a creative use of it, not yet another thumbnail generated my the prompt "3d printer very futuristic and advanced" and it's just a 3d printer that doesn't exists and makes no sense with a lot of tool aligned on a table and everything is on a neon low lit environment, I just rather the youtuber put a random picture of his face and some descriptive text instead cuz then at least it doesn't feel he's trying to hide the fact that he doesn't have the time to actually get interesting thumbnails
Who says I'm not?? 😂😅 Have not and do no't do use HARD drugs and I don'tdrink anymore. Not here to judge those that do. Addiction is real. My addiction is 3d printing.
guys you're so lucky. my KE came shitty. First layer terrible, frame tilted, X belt was deformed by roller. I just can't believe somebody had same problems)) can you make a test with first layer for all of them?
I have an Ender 3 V3 KE running the same parts non stop. It is so good!
Good to hear it's holding up well under constant use. Keep those prints going.
Well done video I enjoyed the comparison. If I was going to get one for free it would have to be the V3, but if I was going to buy one it would have to be the KE. Thank you for your videos.
V3 is a really nice machine. If your near Microcenter they SHOULD have V3's for sale today for $369 and they usually have KE's for sale for $259.
KE any day! I bought one in December and has done more prints than I care to count. I couldnt be happier! It just worked out the box! Oh and I am new to 3D printing.
Welcome to the 3D Community. Glad to hear your enjoying your KE.
So microcenter currently has the CR 10 SE for sale at just $10 more than the Ender 3 V3 KE. At this price point, which one would you recommend? Your video suggests the CR 10 SE just performs worse than the KE, even though the CR 10 SE has better specs on paper (linear rails, included accelerometer for input shaping).
I was shocked myself but yes the KE does produce faster and cleaner prints than the CR10. If you noticed the price has continued to drop on the CR10SE. It started out as a $399 printer and then has steadily dropped over the past 8 months. The KE is usually $259 to $299 and has been since it's release. You can pick up an CR10SE for $269 at Microcenter. The CR10SE is a good printer don't get me wrong. It just doesn't live up to it's specs. The CR10SE does have better dimensional accuracy over the KE and has a better build quality. But I would still pick the KE over the CR10SE.
I have an Ender 3 V3 SE, and I would like to know the difference between it running with Marlim and with Klipper, I've looked for several videos and I can't find it. I wanted to know if it improves speed, quality and everything else. because I'm thinking about making this modification to it. but I can't find the benefits of this modification.
Klipper is a web based UI that allows you to unlock he FULL potential of your printer by allowing YOU to calibrate and change your printers configurations along with remote access.
Whether that be by pushing your current setup harder and faster then it was designed for or adding modifications with new setting that need to be changed in the printers Configuration files. It also allows for input shaping which compensates for the vibrations your printer naturally makes reducing ghosting and artifacts. You can use KAMP, an advanced bed leveling tool in Klipper. Remotely access your computer and hookup cameras for remote viewing and timelapses. Increasing your printers temperature mins and maxs. PID tuning for your nozzle and bed for more stable temperatures.
Easiest way to think about it is as a TV remote control.
Your printer has a BASIC (Marlin) numbers only type remote control. No options button, no mute, no input setting button, no directional arrows, no pic and picture button. Just numbers, channel/volume up and down along with a power button. THE BASICS.
With Klipper someone has now handed you a SMART remote with a screen attached to it (Not a Universal Remote! A SMART remote). You have way more buttons and you now have access to utilize everything your TV is capable of that you weren't able to access before.
Basically it gives you all the OPTIONS you would ever need to tune or modify your printer before and after modifications along with alot of other cool featured.
I have never met someone who went to Klipper and went Back to Marlin.
@@3DandTeePrinting thank you very much !!!The explanation was excellent.I have Another question, is it better to use the Sonic pad to put the Kliper on or use a Raspberry or can I use an old laptop that I have sitting here?
0:51 Hi Dave , at the CR10SE i see there is 1 line like floating . its also happen with my CR10SE .
what can cause it ? i cant get the solution
I have the same issue but only with certain filaments. It's weird. Hyper-PLA, no issues. I sometimes use Slant 3D's Tangled Filament and I get that line. Very strange.
Still trying to work that one out. It's not unlocked or rooted yet. Once it is able to, I will be able to do more testing and figure it out. It comes and goes as well. I will keep you updated once I find the answer.
I have to CR 10 SE in the print quality on benches have been perfect for me
On paper the CR 10SE look more robust and faster LIKE the linear rail bed & dual z axis etc so which one should i go with Cr10se or v3 KE as i am getting both at same price
KE has been more consistent for me personally but once you tune the CR10-SE it is more dimensional ACCURATE. I have spent more time and firmware updates with the V3 and I have to say it's a really good machine. If you have a Microcenter near you they have the V3 for $279 now on sale.
Bro are they just fine in the enclosure even it's so hot? Or you put some exhaust fan?
The Enclosures are used for High Temp Materials. They need the heat in the chamber as well. You would leave the front flap open printing in PETG/PLA/TPU and closed for ABS/PA/PC. It is always better to have a carbon air filter but you can print without one successfully. BUT you will have some VOC'S that are emitted during printing that SHOULD be captured by filter. I have 2 large room air purifiers I run in the shop. The HEAT won't be your problem it's THE VOC'S.
Keep in mind the SE was modified so it now can NOW print high temp. Stock it is not recommended.
@@3DandTeePrinting Thanks a lot 💯 I'm just a newbie 😁 btw what upgrades can i do for SE? So it can print abs bro.
@haven-hw2wl K1 Hotend Swap. Will allow for 300c on the Nozzle. You will have to alter you Printer.cfg file to reflect the new temps or else it won't get above 265c.
Badass video! So the KE beats the Flashforge Adventurer 5m still? I'm having a tough time deciding between the two lol. The flashforge is so tempting since I currently own a V3 SE already.
I can get the Flashforge 5m pro for $440 shipped. Should I do that or k1??
@cagerage21 You got 3 good printers there to chose from.
5M PRO: very nice Machine Not a Huge Community Behind it but a good printer
KE: Great Middle Range Printer. Get more for less printer. Not as stable as a CORE XY printer like the 5MPRO or K1. Will need to purchase or build an enclosure to do high temp materials.
K1: Good printer (new versions not older used ones) has the second largest build Height at 250mm (220 on 5M and 260 on KE). Beds have been known to be misaligned from factory regardless of when it was built.
You really can't go wrong with either one.
If it was me, Based on MY needs I would go with a K1 (already have 2 and K1 Max). But remember it's what YOU need. If your not going to be doing high temp materials anytime soon get the KE. If you need the high temp go with the K1 only because of rhe build area and larger community.
Again YOU can't really pick a bad one from your list. YOU just have to make sure it's right for YOU.
CORE XY or Bedslinger?
Then HIGH TEMP material needs?
That should give YOU some direction.
@3DandTeePrinting Awesome man! Yeah I was looking at the K1 3D not the K1C. Heard the K1C has some issues.
it would be cool if you did a print on a bambu to see how different they are
Good Idea once I get the new bed for the A1.
Beautiful vidéo and good job for us. Thank you.
Just a litle question for the box, you don't need support ?
Sorry for my bad englidh... I'm french.
Have a nice Day.
No support needed on the Boxes. The hinges have a 45° slope. Very easy to print the boxes.
@@3DandTeePrinting Thank you
I have the k1 max, Qidi X Max 3, and the Ender 3 v3 KE. KE is the goat for me in reliability. It just works without really trying the others I have to spend more time specifically the k1 max. I have had to really concentrate on the k1 max.
Glad your enjoying the KE. My Max is brand new and been printing pretty good so fat. Just finished a full sized airless Basketball with no issues. Hope you get it running right soon. I got faith you can get it fixed.
Kind of don’t want to spend more than 200 on my first printer. Trying to decide between the ender v3 se and the ankermade m5c. Is the ke worth the extra money?
@@jaysdub Yes. The KE is running Klipper out of the Box and has more functionality over the M5C. Full Disclosure I am completely bias on the Ankermake Brand as my experiences with them has been horrible. But some people do enjoy printing with them. I myself do not recommend them (EVER). Your more then Welcome to check in on our M5C's adventures with @thatguywhomakes. We gave it to him to enjoy.
@@3DandTeePrinting thank you for the reply. I wonder if problems like yours are the reason they are half the price they were a year ago. I think I’ll shell out a little more and get the KE.
@@jaysdub Just be advised Do Not Top Mount the Filament Spool Holder. The Gantry has narrow extrusions and has a tendency to wobble on the KE and SE when you run the spool ontop. There are alot of printable side mounts with filament guides that will rectify that little hiccup. Very simple fix that really improves print quality.
Awesome video. Is there anyway to mount the spool on the top of the V3? The default side mount seems like a design flaw.
You DON'T want to top mount on a machine like this. Placing it on top WILL effect the input shaping and stability. The side mount in this video is NOT the one that comes with the machine. The v3 stock spool holder makes the printer too wide for a standard enclosure. It IS needed for full spools though. When the printer homes (top of gantry for XZ printer) it unwinds a good amount of filament going up. When it comes back down the filament can tangle around itself without that spool holder design. Personally I like the design of the stock holder (Not the cheap 3d printed look it has. Probably why it comes with the STL files to print the replacement parts for it). I just wish it was parallel to the side and not perpendicular. That way it would be SLIMMER footprint.
I can really say I have had any issues on my se I really love this printer for begging my 1st i want the ke but i went wit the se to upgrade down the road and its printed everything i have throw at it the bed build size is a problem but you can always cut the prints to make big ones
The SE is a great starter printer. Best way to learn is always a Printer with great upgrade abilities.
My ender 3 v3 also has over hang issues, my ender 3 v3 se are better. Any fix? For that
Slow it down in your slicer under overhang speed. I usually print outer walls at 100-120mm/s on the outer walls and haven't had any issues with overhangs at all.
would the v3 be more reliable the the ke?
Too early too tell. Both are running pretty good right now. It's only been out for 40 days. I only have 200ish hours on the V3. The KE has been rock solid on Jello (sorry couldn't help it) for more then 400 hours. Still need to stabilize the gantey like I did on the SE (aka DIablo) but otherwise printing pretty good.
What are the top upgrades for the se?
KLIPPER. Either with Pi, Sonic Pad, Nebula Pad, Speeder Pad (Flsun), BTT Pad 7 etc.
K1 NOZZLE
GANTRY SUPPORTS
I have gantry supports and am planning on getting a nebula pad soon.
For the k1 nozzle is that the ceramic hotend or something else?
how good is k1 , k1c ( isaw some saying they have bad extruder which if im corrrect is same on v3 )
Older K1'S DID have issues with the extruder being made of Aluminum and bending internal gears. They revised it (got one of the 2nd revisions) and switched to a new Extruder made of steel internals. They did another revision and changed the filament gear switch that engages the gears (got one of those too). Then they made the K1C which was SUPPOSE to fix any if the remaining issues with the extruder with the 🦄 "unicorn" nozzle. I too have heard there are now issue with the unicorn nozzle setup on the K1C still allowing for filament to creep out of the sides of the heater block along the filament path but I personally have not seen or experienced that since I don't have a K1C. The V3 extruder has a different head from the K1 and K1C but MAY share the same extruder I am not sure. No issues so far with the V3.
Which slicer are you using?
For this I used Creality Slicer and the Printer preset profiles it has to make it fair. But I normally use Orcaslicer and build my own profiles through tunings. The SE and KE I have better profiles but I wanted to use what "most" new users will use when they get a Creality Printer.
Lovely thumbnail😂😂
AI generated
@@3DandTeePrinting oooh don't get me wrong, I TOTALLY could notice, I just didn't wanted to make it the subject because it was a creative use of it, not yet another thumbnail generated my the prompt "3d printer very futuristic and advanced" and it's just a 3d printer that doesn't exists and makes no sense with a lot of tool aligned on a table and everything is on a neon low lit environment, I just rather the youtuber put a random picture of his face and some descriptive text instead cuz then at least it doesn't feel he's trying to hide the fact that he doesn't have the time to actually get interesting thumbnails
Yes,good video,i bought a V3 corexz 🎉
How are you enjoying it so far?
@@3DandTeePrinting not delivered yet)
Hey Dude, awesome video, but it kind of sounds like you’re on drugs or something😂😂😂
Who says I'm not?? 😂😅 Have not and do no't do use HARD drugs and I don'tdrink anymore. Not here to judge those that do. Addiction is real. My addiction is 3d printing.
guys you're so lucky. my KE came shitty. First layer terrible, frame tilted, X belt was deformed by roller. I just can't believe somebody had same problems))
can you make a test with first layer for all of them?
Sure would be happy to do a short of the first layer on them. They are currently making more of those CLIP Top boxes but I got you.