I'm a recent adopter of the KME system. Got the four diamond set with base deal on Amazon. I had one of the first Edge Pro's when they were making them from nylon by hand. I could never stabilize the blade enough to get an exact edge. Others, I'm sure, have more success, but I do like the KME, born out in the edges I'be getting. I will offer this up to those who have this system - my 300 and 600 grit diamond stones had the labels swapped and I validated this through KME and Brian over there. He says it is entirely possible that the labels got mismatched. So, on my first attempt I was going from fine to coarse without knowing until I saw the scratches increasing instead of decreasing. All good, now that I know....
Finally I find a video that is more in line with my experience. Got the Native 5 LW in s110v and it sharpened pretty nicely. For sure it was a bit longer than some but since the grind and bevels weren't messed up in factory it took around 10 to 15 minutes. I do regret passing from 600 to a fin ceramic tho, I'm pretty sure 600 then finish with strop might have given a more aggressive edge !
Hi Outpost, I've been searching for more information on this exact topic. A thorough month-long use test on this polarizing steel is awesome. People complain this steel is impossible to sharpen and chips through normal use. Really looking forward to day 30! Good work 👍🏻
I like that base you made 4 the kme.great idea! Seeing as I'm fairly new to the kme..only about 3 months under my belt, it was cool to watch an old pro working it. It reinforced that I'm doing it right, lol.
Thanks for the tip about achieving 15 degree angles with the KME. I haven't seen that anywhere else and I didn't think of doing it when sharpening. I reprofiled my western chef knife at 20 (previously was profiled to 15) and not I can get it back. 15 seems way sharper in use. Although I have gotten the 20 degree pretty sharp.
This brings me some relief. I just ordered the Para 3 in s110v with the same blurple handles, and was worried it’d be a pain to sharpen. I use an Edge Pro Apex 4 and the hardest steel I’ve owned prior to this order has been s30v (mini-griptillian and 940), and the Edge Pro makes quick work of it and puts a nice razor sharp polished edge on it. I kept hearing the nightmare stories of s110v sharpening and it had me worried but now I feel more confident in my purchase.
@@Outpost_76 It came in the other day and I sharpened it as soon as I took it out of the box. It was not all too bad to sharpen, however it came with an uneven grind so I had to reprofile the edge before I started, and it was noticeably more difficult than s30v to reprofile. However, after I had the edge profile I wanted, it only took about 10 minutes or so to move through 4 sharpening stones and 2 polishing tapes. Got it razor sharp with a mirror polish. I've broken down several dozen boxes with it since and it's still just as sharp.
That's about how it goes for me sharpening the 110v also. It's truly not that bad, I don't see what all the fuss is about. I take mine as far as 1000grit, but 600 does work well, this steel prefers being left toothy.
I just sharpened my used eBay s110v pm2 and it was actually so easy. Never sharpened a knife before too. I just used a $50 diamond stone from amazon and went to work. Got it hair cutting sharp (although I couldn’t split it or whittle it)
I find that wetting the kme stones creates a slurry that leads to small scratches on blade , I found sharpening with dry stones prevents the scratches , is it necessary with super steels to wet stones if so how do you mitigate the scratches when stones are wet?
Brother....man, you have that down!!! So much for s110v being difficult to sharpen. No fucking around sharpening for you!! That's awesome....u da man 😏👊👊👊😜
Im a freehander but s110v has certainly made me think of an fixed system 😂 it's literally the only steel i struggle to get in that hair splitting level of sharpness, s90v is breeze compared to it, no problem. 20cv in my ZT is great but takes an small burr that is an nightmare to get 100% out, s110v de-burrs easily compared to it.
I fix that area first with the stone being parallel to the plunge grind. Once that is square I sharpen just like this video. I may do a video on it since I have a few I need to put a first edge on.
No knives last forever, chips and rolls. Question is does it cut? Sharpening is part of the process. Just enjoy what you like. Hard steel or softer? I like it all and collect different ones. I like each for their own properties. REX121 to 420c. It's a great hobby, enjoy it all.
Yeah I happen to love S90v myself I am able to put such a thin sticky edge that bites by hand and it does not just fall right off when I use the knife lol it is on my Manly knives wasp and I am using Venev diamond stone progression then stropping with diamond sprays on leather
Would you recommend getting the Sharpmaker before or after getting ther KME? I presently have no sharpening system and avoid using my Spyderco's to preserve the factory edge until I have a system in place. I've read of many folks using the SM to make a microbevel. I'm unclear if this is wise to do on a brand new Spyderco or to use the 30 or 40 degree slots and follow the factory angles. I've read that you can only sharpen at the same angle for so long until you have to jump up or down...would you please clarify?
The sharpmaker has its own learning curve and while it's a good tool when I do use it I end up using the rods freehand. I'd skip it and get something like the KME or similar. I don't run or like micro bevels, that's my choice and they may work for you. I like a keen edge from 13 to 15 dps and adding a micro bevel defeats that purpose. If you are set on trying the Sharp maker the Labksy turn box is much cheaper and will let you know if that type of sharpener is right for you. Also the Worlsharp precision adjust is less than the Sharp Maker and will give you the experience of what a clamp type system is like.
@@Outpost_76 Okay so I am getting the KME. So starting with a factory edge on my (S45VN) PM2. I can sharpie the edge like you did on the video...how do I know what angle I should do my reprofile at? I realize the stone removes all the sharpie length-wise but shoulds it just remove the marking closest to the edge or the whole sharpie marking? Let's say if the PM2 is factory sharpened at say 19 degrees...Would I just want to go a bit lower to reprofile? Say at 17 degrees? Do I need an angle reader or is there something I'm missing. I'm just trying to figure out how to go from a factory edge (which has a tiny 2mm ding from my keys) to a good reprofile with the KME system. So I'd start with the rougher grit stones form a burr along the whole knife edge, then flip...remove that burr...then move to higher grit and repeat on each side with each stone and progress to the next? I'd like to get the most out of my knife blade so by reprofiling at say 15 degrees will I eventually have to go to a higher angle after many sharpenings? Sorry to drillm you with the questions, but you are the only person who I can understand their process the best. Your help is greatly appreciated.
I bou6the pre cut wood circle at Home Depot for 6$. I also got a 1/2 inch wooden dowel. I centered the hole on the base and put about 4 inches of dowel sticking out. It is much more of a solid fit over the KME base and cost me 8$ and about 5 minutes of time. Maybe I'll cover it in a video so others can make one too.
Just ordered that exact knife. How is your angle holding up with how brittle it is? I want to make it more shallow when it arrived but im terrified it will chip.
This is the KME sharpening system. I made the base myself with a pre cut circle from Home Depot. The KME can be purchased many places and I believe Blade HQ has it at the best price. The KME base has a loose fit to the clamp handle that is why I made my own and it was less than half the cost of the KME base. Thank you and if you need any help my email is in the description.
@@Outpost_76 thank you so much for your reply, I will check it out, I have couple of nice knives, Buck, spyderco, Crkt, global, and I don't want to mess them up with freehand sharpening. I use to did that but, is hard to keep the exact angle alll the time. Kind regards Robert
How do you know that the knife is clamped in the right spot when you're starting out? Also, when you're making those test passes to check the angle, what are you feeling for?
@@Outpost_76 I know you have a busy list of videos that you still need to put it. I was just gifted a KME and I'm sure I can learn from your tips about how to get the most out of it!
Is it necessary to go quite as low in the grit? I did some free hand sharpening of a dulled M390 blade and just did it with a. 3000 diamond stone (stone, not plate) and while I would have preferred to have a 1k a well, it was very much doable.
The amount of use the apex has seen or the damage done to it will be how I decide what grit to start with. Now a normal sharpening I'll usually go 300 grit unless it's something run softer and 600 will work such as the Sandvik steels, 8cr13 and so on. For a angle change I go as low in grit as I need to get it done. I personally wouldn't start at even a 1000 grit diamond stone for a normal sharpening, that's my preference and it's a much quicker job that way.
@@Outpost_76 I really appreciate your answer. I can only agree - the details of the sharpening job that is to be done decide what is the best way to do it.
@@Outpost_76 Do you feel that Diamond are the way to go? What grit level do you typically stop at (I know that grit is a relative term) do you stop at? Do you have any experience with Chosera stones? I just purchased some (similar system to edge pro) to sharpen some of my super steel - it looked like you were having a much easier time with the diamond that I am having with Chosera. Thanks
@@Werm000 diamond plates ot diamond water stones will sharpen any steel you have. The Chosera stones have a limit to what you can sharpen on them. I'd look to diamond plates, diamond water stones or the resin bonded or vitrified diamond stones.
Do you recommend the kme system for noobies? I’m new to knife collecting but I really want to use some nicer steel(maxamet, s90v etc). This looks like a good kit.
Any form of sharpening, freehand or a fixed system has a learning curve. The KME is a good system that has great warranty support. Skip the base they sell and make your own, this one I made stays still and the dowel fits the clamp better for solid engagement. Once you become good at using the KME add the universal stone carrier made by Hapstone. It will allow you to use any 1 x 6 stone, these are Edge Pro or TS Prof stones. This is how you can adapt the KME to be able to use the 1 x 6 resin bonded diamond and cbn stones. If you have any other questions my email is in the description and I'll help you as best I can.
@@Outpost_76 wow, i love ur activity on these comments. This one especially...with using the hapstone holder and using bigger stones, im guessing u could sharpen a knife quicker? This is really starting to make me think i wanna get this KME. I wanna system like this, just want one that osnt gonna take forever. I dont need a polished/reflective finish. I'd just like it to be sharp with the option to be real sharp lol
I find that if I try to go below about 17° my stone starts eating away at the jaw of the clamp. Turning it over WILL help lower my ° angle but I end up eating away at my clamp jaw.
Clamp the blade further out and you can get low angles. I had that issue way back when i started on the KME and clamp position helps angle adjustability.
Not always, I did start using them dry and the stones seemed to wear faster once I quit using water. You can use them either way but I'm back to using a couple drops of water on them again.
Nice job.. I like to finish up d2 with 600.. or even 400 and then do a few light passes with 2000.. just to fine tune the toothy edge.. how do you prefer d2?
It really depends on the D2. I'm really disappointed with China done D2 lately and usually finish it at either 600 or 1500. I've seen no benefit to either seeing the way it performs. On my Benchmade and Ontario I run at 1500, it performs well for me that way. Now my ADV I'm still figuring out, it's a far superior heat treated D2 and I'm not sure what works best yet.
The 4 diamond stone kit will do all you need. Technique will get all the sharp you will ever need with those. It just takes practice and you'll be surprised how sharp your knives will be.
It's easy enough to learn. Your skill level will determine how sharp you can get a knife and you will have to get some extra stones if you want a mirror polish but that comes with any way or system you'll sharpen with.
@@Outpost_76 awesome thank you, the deluxe kit is like 315-400 bucks I think, o just want to make my knives back to factory sharp if possible, my pm2 I have in mind and how fo u know what angle to be at? And does it adjust for different angles and does it tell u the angle u are on?
@@ryanc5681 my email is in the description, message me and I can better help you. As in you don't need the deluxe kit, you can make your own base and save 30$ and the lease amount to get what you are looking to do.
Thanks for this vid demo! You may have cost me some $$ because I had decided not to get the PM2 in S110V due to hearing tales of woe from folks trying to get an edge on it... Now, I don't have a dang excuse :-0... I was impressed by your homemade base, and wondered what you used to connect your KME to the base (looks like you popped in off, vs. having to unscrew it). Also, I am new to KME (just got a basic unit... no lapping films or extras). Never even heard of Basswood strops! Are they better than leather? I have a few strops, but all are loaded with your run-of-the-mill green, white, and black compounds. I have never used any CBN emulsions, or glass, or films. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated! Keep up the good work!
Bass wood doesn't have the give leather does, horse hide is my preferred leather since it's harder than cow hide. The base is made from a pre cut circle of wood I bought at Home Depot and it's a 1/2 inch wooden dowel. The fit is nice and tight and works much better for me. I don't use lapping films and rarely go above 1500 grit stones on my edge finish. The DMT dia-paste would be a good starter for loading a strop, the 6, 3 and 1 micron can be had for 30$ on Amazon and its lasted me over a year. You're welcome and thank you.
Have you ever sharpened a Para 3 on the kme. I’m trying to sharpen one and having issues trying to get to the factory bevel even after flipping the angle guide around. The Stone is hitting the clamp around the tip of the knife. Any tips or suggestions?
If you email me or message me, info is in the description, on Instagram I'll send you a picture of how to clamp a Para 3 in the KME. I've done many without issue.
It is easier on the KME. Takes forever on more traditional systems. I think that might be where people complain about it. I really disliked S110v until I picked up a KME.
Gerald, this video is almost 2 years old and I still watch it on occasion to keep my technique on my KME clean and fast. Thanks !
You're welcome, shoot me a message so we can catch up.
@@Outpost_76yes I need to as well Ill shoot you a message and we can catch up bud! 😂 im jkn
I'm a recent adopter of the KME system. Got the four diamond set with base deal on Amazon. I had one of the first Edge Pro's when they were making them from nylon by hand. I could never stabilize the blade enough to get an exact edge. Others, I'm sure, have more success, but I do like the KME, born out in the edges I'be getting. I will offer this up to those who have this system - my 300 and 600 grit diamond stones had the labels swapped and I validated this through KME and Brian over there. He says it is entirely possible that the labels got mismatched. So, on my first attempt I was going from fine to coarse without knowing until I saw the scratches increasing instead of decreasing. All good, now that I know....
Finally I find a video that is more in line with my experience. Got the Native 5 LW in s110v and it sharpened pretty nicely. For sure it was a bit longer than some but since the grind and bevels weren't messed up in factory it took around 10 to 15 minutes.
I do regret passing from 600 to a fin ceramic tho, I'm pretty sure 600 then finish with strop might have given a more aggressive edge !
Nailed it! 600 and strop is what this beast needs!
I really enjoyed watching your video. You provided some very helpful information. I just bought this knife and I plan on getting a KME someday.
Hi Outpost, I've been searching for more information on this exact topic. A thorough month-long use test on this polarizing steel is awesome. People complain this steel is impossible to sharpen and chips through normal use. Really looking forward to day 30!
Good work 👍🏻
Thank you, I hope this fills in some information gaps and helps to put some rumors about S110V to rest.
Yea I recently bought a kme and just sharpened my para 2 s110v and it was very easy I was prepared for a headache the way people were talking.
Great video! Glad to see this information being put out there because it’s really not anything to be scared of.
I agree and thank you.
Nice to see someone with that smooth experience. Nice touch!!
Thank you
I like that base you made 4 the kme.great idea!
Seeing as I'm fairly new to the kme..only about 3 months under my belt, it was cool to watch an old pro working it. It reinforced that I'm doing it right, lol.
Thank you, from the knives you've sent to test I'd say you are doing a great job.
@@Outpost_76 Thank you.
Thanks for the tip about achieving 15 degree angles with the KME. I haven't seen that anywhere else and I didn't think of doing it when sharpening. I reprofiled my western chef knife at 20 (previously was profiled to 15) and not I can get it back. 15 seems way sharper in use. Although I have gotten the 20 degree pretty sharp.
This brings me some relief. I just ordered the Para 3 in s110v with the same blurple handles, and was worried it’d be a pain to sharpen. I use an Edge Pro Apex 4 and the hardest steel I’ve owned prior to this order has been s30v (mini-griptillian and 940), and the Edge Pro makes quick work of it and puts a nice razor sharp polished edge on it. I kept hearing the nightmare stories of s110v sharpening and it had me worried but now I feel more confident in my purchase.
Its definitely not even close to as difficult as you'll see posted on line. Once you get a few edges on the S110V it comes up very nice too.
@@Outpost_76 It came in the other day and I sharpened it as soon as I took it out of the box. It was not all too bad to sharpen, however it came with an uneven grind so I had to reprofile the edge before I started, and it was noticeably more difficult than s30v to reprofile. However, after I had the edge profile I wanted, it only took about 10 minutes or so to move through 4 sharpening stones and 2 polishing tapes. Got it razor sharp with a mirror polish. I've broken down several dozen boxes with it since and it's still just as sharp.
@@SG-ds8pr splendid!
That's about how it goes for me sharpening the 110v also. It's truly not that bad, I don't see what all the fuss is about. I take mine as far as 1000grit, but 600 does work well, this steel prefers being left toothy.
I agree, the first time I ever sharpened S110V I expected it to be more difficult
Probably from people trying to sharpen it on a Sharpmaker with medium and fine ceramic rods. Diamond stones will sharpen anything.
Great vid Gerald. I shared it on the KME Users Facebook group.
Thank you, I appreciate that.
@@Outpost_76 Fame and fortune in your future brother...lol 😁😋👊👊👊
@@davemartel9572 lol, I'm just a regular person like anyone else.
@@Outpost_76 Maybe KME will make you a superstar!!!
I just sharpened my used eBay s110v pm2 and it was actually so easy. Never sharpened a knife before too. I just used a $50 diamond stone from amazon and went to work. Got it hair cutting sharp (although I couldn’t split it or whittle it)
I find that wetting the kme stones creates a slurry that leads to small scratches on blade , I found sharpening with dry stones prevents the scratches , is it necessary with super steels to wet stones if so how do you mitigate the scratches when stones are wet?
I like watching different kme vids just to see different techniques.
Brother....man, you have that down!!! So much for s110v being difficult to sharpen. No fucking around sharpening for you!! That's awesome....u da man 😏👊👊👊😜
Yeah s110v ain’t a big deal honestly unless your reprofileing it significantly or taking massive chips out
Im a freehander but s110v has certainly made me think of an fixed system 😂 it's literally the only steel i struggle to get in that hair splitting level of sharpness, s90v is breeze compared to it, no problem. 20cv in my ZT is great but takes an small burr that is an nightmare to get 100% out, s110v de-burrs easily compared to it.
I agree with that all.
How do you approach the heel area without the sharpening choil? I make a mess of mine but your bevel looks great all the way along
I fix that area first with the stone being parallel to the plunge grind. Once that is square I sharpen just like this video. I may do a video on it since I have a few I need to put a first edge on.
The edge along the left side of the tip looks jacked up.
No knives last forever, chips and rolls. Question is does it cut? Sharpening is part of the process. Just enjoy what you like. Hard steel or softer? I like it all and collect different ones. I like each for their own properties. REX121 to 420c. It's a great hobby, enjoy it all.
Yeah I happen to love S90v myself I am able to put such a thin sticky edge that bites by hand and it does not just fall right off when I use the knife lol it is on my Manly knives wasp and I am using Venev diamond stone progression then stropping with diamond sprays on leather
What angle
Would you recommend getting the Sharpmaker before or after getting ther KME? I presently have no sharpening system and avoid using my Spyderco's to preserve the factory edge until I have a system in place. I've read of many folks using the SM to make a microbevel. I'm unclear if this is wise to do on a brand new Spyderco or to use the 30 or 40 degree slots and follow the factory angles. I've read that you can only sharpen at the same angle for so long until you have to jump up or down...would you please clarify?
The sharpmaker has its own learning curve and while it's a good tool when I do use it I end up using the rods freehand. I'd skip it and get something like the KME or similar. I don't run or like micro bevels, that's my choice and they may work for you. I like a keen edge from 13 to 15 dps and adding a micro bevel defeats that purpose. If you are set on trying the Sharp maker the Labksy turn box is much cheaper and will let you know if that type of sharpener is right for you. Also the Worlsharp precision adjust is less than the Sharp Maker and will give you the experience of what a clamp type system is like.
@@Outpost_76 Okay so I am getting the KME. So starting with a factory edge on my (S45VN) PM2. I can sharpie the edge like you did on the video...how do I know what angle I should do my reprofile at? I realize the stone removes all the sharpie length-wise but shoulds it just remove the marking closest to the edge or the whole sharpie marking? Let's say if the PM2 is factory sharpened at say 19 degrees...Would I just want to go a bit lower to reprofile? Say at 17 degrees? Do I need an angle reader or is there something I'm missing. I'm just trying to figure out how to go from a factory edge (which has a tiny 2mm ding from my keys) to a good reprofile with the KME system. So I'd start with the rougher grit stones form a burr along the whole knife edge, then flip...remove that burr...then move to higher grit and repeat on each side with each stone and progress to the next? I'd like to get the most out of my knife blade so by reprofiling at say 15 degrees will I eventually have to go to a higher angle after many sharpenings? Sorry to drillm you with the questions, but you are the only person who I can understand their process the best. Your help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks for the video! Just wondering, how did you make the KME base?
I bou6the pre cut wood circle at Home Depot for 6$. I also got a 1/2 inch wooden dowel. I centered the hole on the base and put about 4 inches of dowel sticking out. It is much more of a solid fit over the KME base and cost me 8$ and about 5 minutes of time. Maybe I'll cover it in a video so others can make one too.
I love s110v steel
Just ordered that exact knife. How is your angle holding up with how brittle it is? I want to make it more shallow when it arrived but im terrified it will chip.
Can you tell me where can I buy that sharpener system? And which brand is it?
Awesome video and result!
Kind regards Robert
This is the KME sharpening system. I made the base myself with a pre cut circle from Home Depot. The KME can be purchased many places and I believe Blade HQ has it at the best price. The KME base has a loose fit to the clamp handle that is why I made my own and it was less than half the cost of the KME base. Thank you and if you need any help my email is in the description.
@@Outpost_76 thank you so much for your reply, I will check it out, I have couple of nice knives, Buck, spyderco, Crkt, global, and I don't want to mess them up with freehand sharpening.
I use to did that but, is hard to keep the exact angle alll the time.
Kind regards Robert
That KME system is that the standard system for $180 that comes with the Gold series stones or do you have to buy diamond stones separate?
It comes with the 4 diamond stones. The base I made for about 7 dollars
The 50 and 100 grit are separate purchases. I've done fine without either if them since last August.
How do you know that the knife is clamped in the right spot when you're starting out? Also, when you're making those test passes to check the angle, what are you feeling for?
I've been asked that a lot lately and I'm going to do a video on it. I'll explain why I clamp how I do and what I look for when I'm clamping a blade.
@@Outpost_76 I know you have a busy list of videos that you still need to put it. I was just gifted a KME and I'm sure I can learn from your tips about how to get the most out of it!
Is it necessary to go quite as low in the grit? I did some free hand sharpening of a dulled M390 blade and just did it with a. 3000 diamond stone (stone, not plate) and while I would have preferred to have a 1k a well, it was very much doable.
The amount of use the apex has seen or the damage done to it will be how I decide what grit to start with. Now a normal sharpening I'll usually go 300 grit unless it's something run softer and 600 will work such as the Sandvik steels, 8cr13 and so on. For a angle change I go as low in grit as I need to get it done. I personally wouldn't start at even a 1000 grit diamond stone for a normal sharpening, that's my preference and it's a much quicker job that way.
@@Outpost_76 I really appreciate your answer. I can only agree - the details of the sharpening job that is to be done decide what is the best way to do it.
What type of stones are you using? Thanks for making this vid!
On this one it's the KME gold diamond plates. I also have other diamond plates and many different stones for the KME.
@@Outpost_76 Do you feel that Diamond are the way to go? What grit level do you typically stop at (I know that grit is a relative term) do you stop at? Do you have any experience with Chosera stones? I just purchased some (similar system to edge pro) to sharpen some of my super steel - it looked like you were having a much easier time with the diamond that I am having with Chosera. Thanks
@@Werm000 diamond plates ot diamond water stones will sharpen any steel you have. The Chosera stones have a limit to what you can sharpen on them. I'd look to diamond plates, diamond water stones or the resin bonded or vitrified diamond stones.
Thanks! I just sent you an email, but realized you answered here
Do you recommend the kme system for noobies? I’m new to knife collecting but I really want to use some nicer steel(maxamet, s90v etc). This looks like a good kit.
Any form of sharpening, freehand or a fixed system has a learning curve. The KME is a good system that has great warranty support. Skip the base they sell and make your own, this one I made stays still and the dowel fits the clamp better for solid engagement. Once you become good at using the KME add the universal stone carrier made by Hapstone. It will allow you to use any 1 x 6 stone, these are Edge Pro or TS Prof stones. This is how you can adapt the KME to be able to use the 1 x 6 resin bonded diamond and cbn stones. If you have any other questions my email is in the description and I'll help you as best I can.
@@Outpost_76 wow, i love ur activity on these comments. This one especially...with using the hapstone holder and using bigger stones, im guessing u could sharpen a knife quicker?
This is really starting to make me think i wanna get this KME.
I wanna system like this, just want one that osnt gonna take forever. I dont need a polished/reflective finish. I'd just like it to be sharp with the option to be real sharp lol
I find that if I try to go below about 17° my stone starts eating away at the jaw of the clamp. Turning it over WILL help lower my ° angle but I end up eating away at my clamp jaw.
Clamp the blade further out and you can get low angles. I had that issue way back when i started on the KME and clamp position helps angle adjustability.
Good video. Do you always use water on KME sharpening stones? Most other videos seem to show using them dry. Thanks -
Not always, I did start using them dry and the stones seemed to wear faster once I quit using water. You can use them either way but I'm back to using a couple drops of water on them again.
Nice job.. I like to finish up d2 with 600.. or even 400 and then do a few light passes with 2000.. just to fine tune the toothy edge.. how do you prefer d2?
It really depends on the D2. I'm really disappointed with China done D2 lately and usually finish it at either 600 or 1500. I've seen no benefit to either seeing the way it performs. On my Benchmade and Ontario I run at 1500, it performs well for me that way. Now my ADV I'm still figuring out, it's a far superior heat treated D2 and I'm not sure what works best yet.
Thinking of ordering a KM system. Was thinking I would need only; course, fine & XF diamond stones. Not looking for razor sharp.Advice please.
The 4 diamond stone kit will do all you need. Technique will get all the sharp you will ever need with those. It just takes practice and you'll be surprised how sharp your knives will be.
Is the kme good to learn on? It will bring any edge back hair shaving sharp? And mirror finish?
It's easy enough to learn. Your skill level will determine how sharp you can get a knife and you will have to get some extra stones if you want a mirror polish but that comes with any way or system you'll sharpen with.
@@Outpost_76 awesome thank you, the deluxe kit is like 315-400 bucks I think, o just want to make my knives back to factory sharp if possible, my pm2 I have in mind and how fo u know what angle to be at? And does it adjust for different angles and does it tell u the angle u are on?
@@ryanc5681 my email is in the description, message me and I can better help you. As in you don't need the deluxe kit, you can make your own base and save 30$ and the lease amount to get what you are looking to do.
New sub here! What stones did you use to sharpen with? They look like gritomatic SiC possibly? Great video :)
I was using the KME gold series stones here. I also have some Grit-o-matic, Naniwa, Chosera, King and DMT stones.
What do you find the water helps with? I don't think I've ever used it with my kme, but I guess maybe I should...? 😅
It helps keep steel filings down but I've since quit using it. I just run them dry again.
@@Outpost_76, oooh... Ok. Thanks! =D
Nice job!
Thank you
excellent, subscribed.
Do you do this as a service? If so how much do you charge per knife.
I don't, if you need some help pay shipping both ways and I'll sharpen them for you.
Why not go in the 1000 range with 110?
Really enjoyed that pal thank you. Atb paddy 👍☘️😊
You're welcome Paddy
Where may one purchase a KME system?
I looked around when I got mine an found the best deal at the time on Blade HQ. I'd do a search and see who has the best deal.
@@Outpost_76 Thank you.
Thanks for this vid demo! You may have cost me some $$ because I had decided not to get the PM2 in S110V due to hearing tales of woe from folks trying to get an edge on it... Now, I don't have a dang excuse :-0... I was impressed by your homemade base, and wondered what you used to connect your KME to the base (looks like you popped in off, vs. having to unscrew it). Also, I am new to KME (just got a basic unit... no lapping films or extras). Never even heard of Basswood strops! Are they better than leather? I have a few strops, but all are loaded with your run-of-the-mill green, white, and black compounds. I have never used any CBN emulsions, or glass, or films. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated! Keep up the good work!
Bass wood doesn't have the give leather does, horse hide is my preferred leather since it's harder than cow hide. The base is made from a pre cut circle of wood I bought at Home Depot and it's a 1/2 inch wooden dowel. The fit is nice and tight and works much better for me. I don't use lapping films and rarely go above 1500 grit stones on my edge finish. The DMT dia-paste would be a good starter for loading a strop, the 6, 3 and 1 micron can be had for 30$ on Amazon and its lasted me over a year. You're welcome and thank you.
Great info here!
I appreciate it, thank you.
how does he come to a burr on both sides ?
Have you ever sharpened a Para 3 on the kme. I’m trying to sharpen one and having issues trying to get to the factory bevel even after flipping the angle guide around. The Stone is hitting the clamp around the tip of the knife. Any tips or suggestions?
If you email me or message me, info is in the description, on Instagram I'll send you a picture of how to clamp a Para 3 in the KME. I've done many without issue.
Outpost 76 alright cool that sounds great. I just messaged you on intragram. My intragram name is anything_knife_related thanks in advance 👊
I’m not a big kme guy great system but I suck with it
Thank you.
You're welcome
It is easier on the KME. Takes forever on more traditional systems. I think that might be where people complain about it. I really disliked S110v until I picked up a KME.
What are you at like 24 inclusive?!
Edit: okay 30...just looks like way less than 15 per but I see that you've sharpened quite a few times...
Thank you much for this video.
You're welcome
Just a tip: Maybe try cleaning your strops, you might get better results. But if what you are doing is working, don't listen to me.
I may do a video on strops at some point. Mike from Iheartknives made me some and I've made about a dozen myself since I did this video.
@@Outpost_76 Awesome brother! Keep up the good work!
I’ve never had much luck with s110v
I need to get some to you to try out again along with a couple stones.
Call me when they get the S 1000000V
I wish this system was more reasonably priced.
I sharpen enough I feel it's long since paid for itself. I know it's a chunk to buy in to in the beginning for me it was well worth it.
What voodoo magic is this lol
I have the same knife.. and the same sharpener.. l0l..
Well organized halfway through the video he has to run off to get some water sound like he might be Bidens advisor!!!
So many mistakes.!
Great video. Thank you.
You're welcome