Where Restore-A-Finish works best and where it will not!
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- Опубликовано: 4 фев 2023
- Note: I meant to say the very fine steelwool was 0000 not 000. Also denatured alcohol not mineral spirits, excuse me. Thanks to Restore-A-Finish there are plenty of antique and vintage pieces that should be given a second chance. Select the right color and clean your piece before you begin. It is important to remember that less is more. Never pour the product directly on your piece, work in small sections, and rub mildly at first. If that doesn’t work because the gouge or nick on the piece is deep, then try rubbing a little harder or using fine 0000 steel wool. Speed is the other thing to keep in mind. Wipe it on and quickly wipe it off.
When this product won’t work is if you are dealing with a topcoat that isn’t shellac or lacquer. Polyacrylic and Polyurethane topcoats won’t budge. Likewise, paint won’t budge either.
So how to tell the difference? Before you runout and buy Restore-A-Finish test the piece in an inconspicuous spot. The inside of a leg perhaps. Then using a cotton swab or a bit of cloth with some alcohol on it (rubbing, mineral spirits) rub the piece and see if any color comes off. If the swab or cloth comes back stained, you have a piece that Restore-A-Finish can help. Of course, this product does not repair or fill dents and dark stains can’t be lifted with it. But in the end a little character on a piece shows it has been enjoyed.
Products used-
Restore A Finish: amzn.to/3RxmRSQ
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As an inorganic chemist and former faculty member, two thumbs up for clarity, completeness, and accuracy. And your joy.
Wow, thanks I’m honored!
Well this explains it. Somebody gave me a cabinet with some of the edges scraped off, I took it because I could just use the restore stuff I already had. I had the same results you did on that chair, nothing. This I knew was a crap furniture and was finished dark so the scrapes of the finish completely off stood out. Then I remembered I had a minwax scratch pen and it worked a treat. I had to put 2 coats in some places, but it looks new, and would work on your chair. Thanks. (the pens look almost like a sharpie, or exactly like that tide pen for stains, which they at least used to sell)
Glad this helped and thanks for the Minwax pen reminder! May try a video on them 🙂
I’ve watched many videos, have always been curious about this. no one, and I mean no one has given such helpful information about shellac vs. poly’s and using this particular product to restore in such an understanding way in such a short amount of time.
Glad it was helpful!
Well done. Summary: Restor A Finish comes in 8 colors. It will fix very light scratches or white stains from cold drinks n hot drinks IF THE OLD FINISH IS SHELLAC OR LAQUER, but not fix the more modern polyurethane finishes - polyurethane or the other poly. To determine if shellac or lacquer, test rub an inconspicuous spot with a Q-tip with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol). If the q-tip removes a tiny hint of finish, then it is shellac or lacquer.
A tip I found for the modern finishes, if you don’t want to sand it and stuff - use a stain pen in a matching color. Dab it on the scratch and dab off the excess. Let it dry.
Walla! Good as new!
I've used Restor-a-Finish since the late 1970's and absolutely LOVE IT. I have golden oak and walnut antiques and golden oak plantation shutters - I use the golden oak Restor-a-Finish on my walnut antiques too, so no need to buy a separate can of walnut colored product, and they look beautiful. I also love using Howard's Feed-N-Wax, a mixture of orange oil and bee's wax. Howard's makes great products!
They do make great products, thanks for sharing!
I e seen many channels where Restore -A-Finish is used, and I don’t remember any talking about what finish it will work on. Great tip!
You can still stain the scratches. I use a colord furniture polish or marker.
Yeah, I'm a Sharpie fixer myself! Not 100% but 90% and it's much better than glaring scratches.
Thanks for your advice about the alcohol test. It saved me $10.
Thank you! Especially on the polyurethane test. You saved me time and money. My table seems to be covered with the PU.
Excellent! That is always my goal, to help people save time and money.
I agree 100 percent. I had a miraculous effect on kitchen cabinets, saving us from a huge replacement cost. Then, I tried to use the same product on a recently made wooden card table, and it was a disaster. It didn't restore the finish; if anything, it made big ugly and dull wipe marks and we had to go another way. So yes, this is a miraculous product for a lot of finished furnishings, and no, it doesn't work on the more recent items that are finished with a polyurethane stained finish.
Were you able to fix the card table? The same thing happened to me and I ruined my dressers 😢
Thanks Margie! Love the comedy bits. I appreciate a chuckle whenever I can get one!
I use 50/50 mineral turps and metholated (white) spirits where there has been a poly coating.
BEST EXPLANATION!!! Work wonders on my guitar! My on my oak furniture the mahogany color gave it a beautiful redwood hue. Didn't do much on maple tho...Thanks!!!
Great info. I just bought this. Before I open up the can I will do the alcohol swab prior. I watched another channel by a person who swears by this stuff, but she did not mention testing the coat first. 👍
When it is right for a piece it is fantastic! Good luck
you pick up info from different restorers.
I liked the little humorous video clips -- AND the info!
Thank you!
I use the restorer for sprucing up cabinets. Works really well.Saves me time and the customer money.😊
Love your video, thank you! Love the funny clips 😀
Found your video just after learning about Howard products. Definitely want to use Restor-a-Finish on my vintage bedroom suite but was concerned about dirt and buildup. You've given me as great tip with the 50-50 cleaner use before the restore product...so big THANKS! ❤
Glad it was helpful!
Very helpful! I wasn’t sure how to identify lacquer vs polyurethane finish, and now after watching your video I tested and it worked, indeed! Thank you!
Very happy to hear I could be of help!
You’re awesome lady, thanks!😊
Thank you for this! Great recommendation by the algorithm. I just bought some of this stuff after watching another video that was recommended to me, and since you shared how to test if it will work, i can rest assured knowing it will work for my pieces.
Good luck! Made this because I learned the hard way it wouldn’t work on everything😁
The last tip about the laquear topping is great. I am about to buy the product and need to check my table before I buy it. Thank you
Glad to be of help!
This is super helpful! I have a couple pieces at home that could definitely use a little bit of a makeover. I’m artsy - I’m NOT your girl when it comes to what I call heavy duty diy. Sanding? Id rather not. I have high hopes that this product can make my coffee tables and dresser look fresh with minimal effort on my part. Now I know how to go about it and how to figure out if it’s even going to work. Fingers crossed that these pieces are old enough to have the right kind of finish on!
Yay, so glad I could be of help!
Great info, missed by other reviews, also appreciate the British comedian clips 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you that was extremely helpful.
very helpful, Margie, thanks!
Thank you!
I have just used this on my antiques wow they look new
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR TELLING HOW TO KNOW WHAT KIND OF FINISH YOUR PIECES HAVE 😀
Excellent information! Thank you.
Love the small clips. Made me laugh. Subscribed!
Thanks for the sub and glad you enjoyed!
This product is a miracle in a can!
Thank you! I was very recently trying to find some of this product locally and turns out it would be quite a drive to get it from the store who carries it. I had no idea about its efficacy on where I wanted to use it, now I do, and I can save my money, and time. Very helpful video. 👍🤗
It was learning the hard way that prompted me to share, glad this was helpful!
@@AskingSpot 😊💞
Very informative!
Thanks that was very helpful. I am new to this game and have lots of furniture from my ancestors to salvage.
Oh, that sounds challenging and fun! Good luck 👍
Thank you so much…couldn’t work out what the heck I was doing wrong with this product 👍subscribed
Thank you! Generally, I’m just sharing info on what has stumped me in hopes I save someone else some time. 😄
3:15 Thanks 😊 for your knowledge, I bought it and I was hesitant to use it.
I was going to clean it with water only, now I will use a vinegar mixture.
Both pieces are older and this seems the perfect solution.
I don’t want to make it brand new I want to keep the age to it.
Be sure to test first, in an inconspicuous spot, everything. From cleaning to Restore-A-Finish. It’s better to be safe than sorry! Good luck👍
That was educational. Ty
Great information. This answered my questions
Glad to be of help!
Soooo helpful, you are the best!
I try, thanks!
Thank you for your tip to first wipe the surface with 50/50 vinegar/water. I have been using Howard restor-a- finish for years and never before thought to remove residual furniture polish before applying Howard's. I can recall now, times when there was clearly a build up of old wax polish that I should have cleaned first. I just never knew what to use. Now I do!
Also, I used to leave the restor-a-finish on the surface for at least 30 minutes before wiping off the excess. Now that I learned that the product breaks down the original shellac or lacquer finish on my antiques, I will remove the excess as soon as I am satisfied with the color blending. Best!
Glad I could be of help and really glad to hear your antiques are being taken care of!
Thank you!
I just bought two antique/vintage furniture pieces (one 1940s & one 1960s) and the finish on them both is, understandably, pretty tired. I don’t want to strip them back until next summer (I’m in Scotland, so winter is not the time for these things unless you have a huge shed) and wanted to just improve the worn bits for aesthetics in the meantime. I’ll go and buy this in the colours I need and use your advice to get a decent finish 😀
Wonder, the pieces sound great! Good luck
Useful info thank you 😊
I almost got this product. Not sure of the finish yet. Thanks! I hate returning stuff
A tip I found for the modern finishes, if you don’t want to sand it and stuff - use a stain pen in a matching color. Dab it on the scratch and dab off the excess. Let it dry.
Walla! Good as new!
Funny you should mention that as I just tried one of those pens. Not sure if my scratches weren’t deep enough or what but I did not get the best results Do repair markers or pencils work on scratched poly-coated wood?
ruclips.net/video/NWjJ2ao2NnQ/видео.html
Very helpful thanks!
Wow thanks 🙏
Great info that I did not find anywhere else. Thank you!
Wow, thank you for valuable info🤩
You’re welcome 😊 Thanks for letting me know
that was an insanely helpful video! thank you
Thank you!
Good info. Thanks!
Thank you for the alcohol tip....just what I needed
Glad to be of help!
Thank you so much. That was super useful!!
Thank you!
Great video Thanks!
Thanks
Very helpful Thanks! Subscribed and liked
Thanks for the sub!
Great info, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Well done, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
thx...good info....
Super informative and entertaining edit ins🖤 Thank you
Thanks for the info!
Glad to be of help!
It's exactly what I needed. Thank youuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu
You're welcome!!!!!!!!!
Great - thanks
Awesome video thank you
Glad you liked it!
I picked up a large computer desk with enclosing doors. Oak and very thirsty looking. I guess the clue is it was not shiny so not poly. Restor did in an excellent job reviving the finish. I did half with one color and then forgot which color and half with a different shade but they are close enough. Most wouldn't notice.
When it’s the right product for the task, it’s a wonder! Color wise it is sort of forgiving too. Glad it worked for you 😊
Such great information.
I'm going to do the q-tip alcohol test.
After the vinegar was.
Oh Lord, I don't like sanding.
Wash
Vinegar wash
Good luck, if it can work it is fantastically easy to work with😉
This is really helpful, thanks. I take it this wouldn't work on wood that only has an oil finish? Thanks
That would be my guess, that you are correct. If the alcohol test has no effect that would be your best indicator.
"Embroidery Museum Grows looks very interesting. I can't find any more information on it. Can you share a link?
Its just my other hobby ruclips.net/video/9GBFcpBOMeU/видео.html 😊 this is part one ruclips.net/video/33VyEgiRJQI/видео.html
Thank you! I learned something useful today.
ETA, and sorry if this sounds dumb, but how do you decide on the colour(s) to buy with eight to choose from if you can't bring the items to the store for a match, like say, my kitchen cupboard? I suppose getting some swatches beforehand would do the trick!
Well, with a true full stain situations that is more difficult. However as this product is made with blending in mind it just needs to be close. That being said, I’m not the only one to haul a drawer with me into a hardware store so I could get a good match. I’ve also bought plenty of stain that doesn’t match, but will work great for the next project.😊
@@AskingSpot Thanks! One less item on my list of things that niggle at me.
I want to refinish a clock case from the 1920s. I'm guessing it's likely shellac, but maybe it could also be lacquer.
Odds are you are correct. You could try the rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab test. Of course do it on the back or perhaps bottom of the piece. Good luck
It should've been worth mentioning that most modern [synthetic] 'polys' are in fact termed as 'varnish' - [often] the hardest of the three main [other] types of protective coatings: shellac, lacquer, and varnish.
Stumpy Nubs did an entire video on the many terms for top coats/varnish ruclips.net/video/v43GCh--jO0/видео.htmlsi=aqK9VvtNev9LAQ5A
Thank you for keeping to the point. I'm about to attempt my first restoration and I am sure it is a shellac finish. However, There are some bad gouges in the wood which will need filling. Will this colour the filling also, please?
Having not seen the gouges I wonder if the technique with a damp towel and an iron to get them out? Unfortunately I have no experience with wood filler and Restore-A-Finsh so I don’t know. But it sounds like it will work for the rest of the piece so it won’t be a waste. Will be interested in hearing if it works for you.
Can you do a video on sanding and refinishing with polyurethane
Hmm, those chairs still need help, may have too 🤔
I wish I could upload a photo so someone could tell me of this will work on my RV cabinets.
Try the cotton swap and rubbing alcohol test?
Thank you! This is very helpful 🪑
I try!
Excellent tutorial!
Glad you liked it!
Hi, great video! So helpful! Do you know if this would work if the old finish on the antique is more wax based?
Not at all sure. My guess (NOT AN EXPERT) is it would be a case of yes and no. If there is an underlying stain you might be able match it with Restore but would then have to wax the piece…Or is it wax based as in the natural wax that shellac usually comes with? That would be a yes, make sure not to use too much or leave it on too long. Is it totally a French wax where time builds up an amber? Might not be good at all. You could try an inconspicuous spot first (underside, back inside leg or drawer interior) hopefully you have some other piece that you are sure it will help. Sorry I don’t have a definitive answer for you.
@@AskingSpot thanks for replying! I'm a woodworker so I tend to be good at figuring out exactly what finish is used but I've got this 200 year old French bed and I can't tell what's been used. I had to clean years of dust and gunk gently off and it doesn't seem as waxy now. Perhaps there was a beeswax used over the original finish. Might have to experiment with restor a finish and see how it goes!
Not sure that vinegar will "degrease" anything. What about using Murphy's Oil Soap?
Try it. I'm one of a bunch of furniture workers that use vinegar and water. While I love Murphy's Oil Soap, vinegar and water were more cost effective and I could use the vinegar for other things as well.
I just wanted to find out if we have to worry about old furniture lacquer or schlack or any type of gloss because I NEVER worried about that on just Natural looking wood. I thought lead was only inside of colored or white paint but I just want to make sure because I heard something somewhere that I wasn't sure anymore but from other searches it looks like it doesn't usually have it but since you're an expert on it please let us know. I had several items that I wanted to buy and I've had things I've bought in the be sure about the new ones I'm about to buy... As the weather this needs to be a concern or not.
Well, I’m definitely not an expert. But from what I’ve read lead is only in paint with color, it helped with the density of the paint. Shellac and lacquer do not contain it and your understanding of clear finishes not having it is the same as mine. There are kits you can buy to detect lead, too.
Ty for the info. Got a sub from me.
@askingspot do you know if you can darken the finish on a piece with this as you are eliminating the scratches?? I've have a dining room table that needs to be refinished for over a year now ... i have chronic pain so i can't get out and and it myself and finding someone to do it isn't going well...
if this stuff would work for me i can do the whole thing myself!!
however, the end goal was to darken the finish from the brown to a black... they have this in the ebony so that's what i would use, but does it work that way?? just put it over the cleaned finish it has now and I'll get a darker finish.... oooooo please say yes!!
I could not say for sure but my guess is it would not darken all that well. A total guess here but it seems like it would create an uneven finish.
The Mrs. Maggie Miyaggi of furniture restoration.
"Wipe on, Wipe off, Sniff in Sniff out, & You're tripp'n"
Thanks for sharing! I have a question which I don't seem to be able to find answers anywhere else and would love to hear some insights from you! Do you know how long I should keep the re-finished furniture in a well-ventilated area until I can bring it back to my house and use the furniture safely?
I don’t have an official answer on that either. In my opinion, if I no longer smell it and it is dry, I can take it in. If it gets used for food or kids I give it no less than 5 days and as much as 30. Good luck
@@AskingSpotthank you for the detailed answer! That helps me reduce my fear a lot!!! Yeah totally get the food and kids part, it doesn’t hurt by being over precautious😊
@AskingSpot I'm a pretty hands-on guy around our home and we have a few pieces of older furniture that I'll now try RAF! My question is I noticed the antique hand pulls on this dresser of yours. Do you happen to know of an online store where I can get the same style pull for my dresser? I've been searching for that exact antique drawer pull for almost a decade now! Any guidance would be much appreciated!
That is a tough one. I don’t know where you could buy them outside of checking your local restoration places to see if they have a random collection. When I come across a piece that doesn’t have all its handles I usually end up replacing all of them and holding on to the originals for the next piece that hopefully needs fewer handles😉 Have you tried posting a picture of the drawer pull you would like on social media to see if anyone in your area knows of a spare elsewhere?
@@AskingSpot I'll certainly try some of those ideas! Those pulls are very unique and beautiful and thus we want to match the others that are on the dresser. The one that I'm trying to replace broke at the shank/pivoting point. Anyway, the hunt continues!
Good luck!
Margie, loved your video-however would restore a finish be okay to use on a very dark antique buffet? Would it make a difference and lighten the wood or would it stay dark and look like the original finish? I'm sure it's not polyurethaned....it's very old.
Not an expert but the rubbing alcohol test, in an inconspicuous spot, should tell you for sure if it will work. Beyond that, it’s designed for small nicks and scratches not the whole piece. If you are only doing touch ups it should be just the thing. Remember it comes in 8 colors, but your store, like mine, might not have the color you’re looking for. Good luck!
thanks so much- I was going to use it on the whole piece but will definitely try something else!@@AskingSpot
I saw someone sand down a coffee table and use this like a stain to keep the table looking matte. Would that work on a dining table? Would you need to still add a clear top to seal it?
A dining table gets so much use I would definitely add a few layers of topcoat. Especially as this will most likely not stand up to alcohol. I saw someone use this on a dining table and they followed up with a few layers of clear top coat.
Howard's recommends using their "Feed & Polish" product as the topcoat. It provides a hard wax finish. Howard's also recommends waiting 30 days for the Restore & Finish to completely dry and cure before applying polyurethane, if you feel you need to apply that as a topcoat.
I have two wooden dressers that I accidentally spilled isopropyl alcohol on not too long ago. It seems the topping is shellac or lacquer because the alcohol left some white marks on the finish. I have been looking for ways to remedy the situation. Would Restor-A-Finish help remove or cover up the white marks caused by the alcohol?
I wouldn’t know for sure, but technically it sounds like it would work. Note where I tested on the drawer it became cloudy white. Look for a similar color in the restore a finish and test a small bit. Good luck
Do you only wipe the restor-a-finish on the spots that need filling in, or do you need to do the entire piece?
I used it for nicked up areas only, not the entire piece.
Are there any downfalls to using RAF? will it damage the wood or fade?
I’m not an expert but from what I’ve read: You cannot apply a poly over it, only wax. (As the topcoats it works for are shellac based and shellac has a natural wax. Nothing but another wax can go on top of wax. So that makes sense.) Wax is a wonderful topcoat but requires maintenance. So, for fading, I don’t know for sure but my guess is it is no better than stain and wax on furniture. Without maintaining a proper topcoat it will be subject to sun fading etc. I would never use it to cover an entire piece. I would only use it, as intended, for minor scratches.
I think the little clips are cute
Thank you, tarting to keep things light 😉
I just moved into a home. Previous resident spray painted, half the kitchen cabinets black. The remaining half are the original finished wood. Will this remove the paint?
It is very doubtful that would work.
What color of the product did you use?
Dark Walnut
I think I used this on a poly finished dresser and I have those big dull wipe marks that someone else mentioned… is there any way to fix that and even everything back out?
Hmm, I can’t say for sure and I caution you to test, in an inconspicuous spot…As an alcohol should not dull a poly finish. I wonder if you have a wax topcoat. If it was my piece I would test first a bit of mineral spirits, turpentine, or white spirits, to clean off some wax and then reapply wax.
I did the alcohol test on my table and it seemed like the finish was coming off. However, the Restorafinish still didn't work to remove any of the scratches or stains/rings on the table.
It should come off fairly easily…also Restore a Finish doesn’t repair scratches it simply allows for the current finish to be able to cover a bare spot. Its camouflage. As for the stain it depends on what made it. There are various treatments for that and I wish you could tell you exactly which one would work.
Can I use this on the outside of my front door? The sun really dries it out.
I can’t be certain but my guess is your door has a poly topcoat so that wouldn’t work and as it mildly thins the lacquer or shellac it might not leave the door well protected from the sun.
Man, I have inherited a beautiful cherry wood furniture set and the bedroom set is all wierd looking. It's has nicks, smokey areas from I assume trapped moisture but on a footboard???? Blotches from the cherry stain on cherry wood - I don't know why either, and I am kind of shocked. I took some Murphys oil soap to it and the built up "slime" kimd of moved with the direction of the rag but didn't come off. I'm thinking pledge but pledge made my debroom oak set look absolutely stunning but I maintained it like a new born. I love oak gosh that honey warm feel and the grain - uh it's perfect. This cherry though is ....... to high end for me to put pledge on, I can't figure this one and don't want to learn on it either. The vinegar I know would work, it is absolutely reasonable but ..... I would hate to dry out the cherry.
I'm almost at a point of taking it in for a full restoration but leave it at a natural look so it ages beautifully on its own with oil and beeswax at the end if recommended or just oil.
I think - never been able to afford cherry furniture -but if you allow it to age naturally it will become so magnificent the older it gets. Some woods you shouldn't rush amd allow it to be itself and I think cherry is one of them. Again, I grew up with nothing more than muscle and anger so I haven't been able to watch cherry wood do anything ever. I do know it's sought after and high end so that tells me maybe just maybe if I left it to nature it's best. The scary thing.....label says made in China so ............................I do t know what side of that blade I should lean on. Go on and strip that bad boy and redo it myself because it says China made or ..... explain my self to a pro and let them guide the process
Wow a lot to consider. Not being able to see it makes it a tough call. I will say this, the Restore A Finish most likely will not help with trapped moisture. Cleaning with Murphy’s was a great first step. As for the vinegar water mix, that will with unfinished wood, raise grain. But when a solid top coat is on, using it occasionally to get rid of furniture polish residue should not harm it. Although I’m not sure that would be the right remedy for your situation. No matter what you try, always test in a spot that won’t be noticeable. If you can take perhaps a drawer of this bedroom set to your local hardware store you might be able to get some great advice! Good luck, and for what it’s worth I inherited a table from my mom that I love the shape of just not the color. It’s been over 10 years and I still haven’t gotten around to changing it😁
@AskingSpot thanks for the advice. Old furniture is kind of cool I have to admit it. Thanks again and good luck.
Have you tried using it on a poly top with fine steel wool?
Yes, per instructions I tried using steel wool. It’s just that poly top coats don’t dilute with this product.
What if I put some on and then after seeing it decide to sand and stain? Will that restor cause any issues when sanding off?
It shouldn’t. But better to be safe and try a bit in an inconspicuous spot. See how it sands off, then.
Hi there, i just used tint and varnish on kitchen wood, after some days its completely vanishing, can i use it for or do i need to remove thw varnish first? Pls. Anyone have an idea
Not being able to see the piece this is completely a guess but, did you use a wipe on poly as your varnish? That contains a lot of mineral spirits which is used to remove stain so that could be the reason it might be missing. As for restore a finish it is best used for small minor nicks not complete coverage. If my initial guess is correct, sand, stain again and then use a different varnish.
It's supposed to work on all finishes including poly. When the finish is hard - like poly - you are supposed to use 00 steel wool to help penetrate the finish.
Don’t know if the time lapse camera made it hard to see but I used steel wool and it did not penetrate. Also I reread the container and it says it works on all natural wood finishes. Shellac (the first test) is a natural finish made from a bug secretion. A poly (aka plastic finish) is a synthetic.
@@AskingSpot You are correct. I just re-read the can, and it says natural finishes (in very tiny print on the side). The back of the can (in larger print) says it can be used on "wood finishes". Rather deceptive in my book if it truly can't be used on poly b/c poly is a standard wood finish.
@@kenb3552 when it is the right finish it has worked fabulously well for me. But because of the exceptions I thought I would make this video.
@@elizabethclaiborne6461 that’s exactly what I said at end of the video!
@@elizabethclaiborne6461 following the instructions on the container, it recommends using 0000 steel wool. But using a cloth first to test. Thank you for trying to look out for everyone. Do you restore furniture? I would love to see your work🙂
This is where the rubber meets the road