Wow, glad I found your channel! You should (and I’m sure will) have a lot more subscribers. Video is clear, concise, entertaining and really makes one feel as though they could make this armour no problem. Thanks for the great content!
This one is even better! With the hardware at the end to add a cape! I haven't watched all of them yet(I will) but if you make shin guards and you'd almost have (with a little tweaking) a VERY authentic looking set of Roman armor. Hell yeah bro!!! The edit...Roman leather sandals to go this shin guards! Thanks, love your videos!
@@sciencefirst7032 😁 thanks! I am glad you're enjoying the vids. I definitely want to make it a whole set. Leg armor coming soon! Hope you enjoy the rest of the channel! Thank you for watching!
this channel is going to be huge, instead of a skilled craftsman showing us unattainable projects we have a host that is learning as we are. good on ya mate!
Thank you! I am glad that comes across. I sometimes worry I sound like I am supposed to be some kind of authority on a subject when in actuality, 90% of the time I have no idea what I'm doing! Thanks for watching!
I’ve been leatherworking for going on six years. When it comes to your dye, different pieces of leather will take dye differently. It honestly doesn’t have anything to do with the age of your dye, you made the pieces from a different hide. If you want to have everything in a set match you need to buy an entire hide instead of a shoulder or double shoulder. This way you have plenty of material and everything will take dye the same way
My dad, who used to teach leather tooling, always reminds me that your tooling cuts should be about half the depth of the leather. Also, when dyeing leather two things, 1. Even if the leather is "identical", they will often dye differently unless they come from the same hide, usually. That's why saddle makers try make from one hide. 2. Use pro Dye. Such as Fiebing's Pro Dye. They are oil based and therefor dye more evenly and uniformly.
Not sure if anyone has mentioned, for casing, or wetting your leather, if you do the dip, put it in a plastic bag to "rest" for a few hours to overnight, that way the full thickness will be evenly damp. When you remove it form the bag, allow it to rest until it "LOOKS" dry, but if you hold it to your cheek it will feel cool, that is the perfect time to tool it, and when you need to dampen again, a light wipe with a damp sponge on the surface will do the trick and give you a great burnished finish to your tooling (That dark area where the impression from the tools is)
A set of spaulders should cover those decorative studs. And their straps can be hidden behind the armor. Thinking of seeing if I can use this for an early crusader mandalorian.
Not sure if anyone has given advice on dyeing because I'm too lazy to scroll but here you go from a veteran leatherworker lol. 1) moisten the surface of the leather before dyeing. The moisture will allow the pores in the leather to expand and force the dye to settle more evenly after its application. 2) depending on how long your veg tanned leather sits around, the pores can close and can even become brittle if not used quickly enough. 3) daubers are great, but the BEST way to dye is by using a cheap airbrush. I recommend the Roadtec mobile airbrush. 4) have fun, keep.being creative. Great vid!
All GREAT advice. I had no idea that I should be wetting the leather first. It's funny, until just today I never thought if using an airbrush but your the second person in the last 24 hours to mention it. I will be picking one up this weekend. Thank you for the advice and for watching!
Hello, for dye work its all about saturation level going over the same places will make it darker and Switching between the brush and the dauber will change the amount of saturation thus the dark and light streaking. Also shaking the bottle so the alcohol/oil base will have even amounts of pigment will help with coloration. If you decide to dip dye, use dye reducer and mix it with pro dye with the proper ratios. I would also recommend eco flo gel antiques as it brings out tooling work.. Tandy leather has free fundamental classes that go over basics like proper dyeing and sealing. The differences between a sealant and conditioners etc... they also have carving and tooling, stitching, and hardware setting. The piece you did turned out great and I'm excited to see the next set of videos!!
Ok so… Another AMAZING VIDEO as always… but I have an idea… do another one of these style armor rigs but… take and un-buckle the side buckles and leave the shoulders intact and lay it out end to end with the under side face up… then take and install chain mail… give them some shoulder drape sleeves and a fabric tie on the end to fasten the underside to keep from folding up and that would be absolutely awesome and still be flexible.
A really easy trick I've found for quickly/evenly dying leather is to use one of those Kiwi shoe polish dispensers that looks kinda like a bingo blotter. Unrelated, but I also wanted to share that I've found that the easiest way to shave down/debark LIVE wood is with a potato peeler. It makes arrows, bows, canes, staves, etc in a fraction of the time.
Sir, for your dye issues, use Fiebing's Pro Dye. You then dip dye it and it will be even each time. You can also use a sponge. This is the only dye I will use from here on out. Be sure it's the PRO dye so it will be consistent and never crack your leather.
I have recently discovered the glory that is pro dye! You are so right! I will definitely try putting it on with a sponge next time. I have been using a rag. Thanks for the tips and for watching!
It is truly amazing! The way you made it able to bend in the stomach is sweet! It will look dope all together! Now my friend! Now the thigh protector belt!!!
Your wing dividers are fine, but have you considered a set of Jenny calipers (Odd leg). Also, for the smaller pieces, wouldn't dip dyeing them be better? Always enjoy your content.
Just WOW. You've outdone yourself with this one. I am amazed with how flexible it seems and can't wait to make my own. Maybe that'll be a Christmas gift to myself.
Another tip would be to try and hold on to the shirt you used for the pattern. Tape up the neck, body and arm holes, but not before stuffing it full of something like newspaper to make it rigid and correct to scale. That way you can put the wet leather on the body and form it to fit your body overnight.
To keep the shirt and not have to cut it up to make the pattern just cover it in plastic wrap and wrap the tape over that for the pattern version. This gives you both and also allows for a little extra wiggle room underneath for fitting.
I'm in the process of making custom bracers not made from leather but my second pair will be thing is both will be able to be worn daily and extremely cut resistant and very long lasting
@@SkillTree No problem. If you need some inspiration, check out Patina Leathercraft on Facebook. I make all kinds of leather stuff for a living here in Sweden.
I would love to see you make half plate like in D&D it’s a chainmail shirt with Pauldron’s and a leather or steel chest cover with chain sleeves and chain lower half
Instead of dye, for a black, you could use Vinagaroon. Just take plain old white vinegar, place it in a jar and add a few steel wool pads. Cap it and let sit a few weeks. the liquid you end up with will react with the tannin in leather or wood and turn black.
So i am like SUPER new to leather working... i just started a few weeks ago and havnt even finished my first chest piece yet... But after watching many videos i noticed you do something that i personally dont like to see. When you use the Matted Stamp when you look at your armor you can see it's super obvious where the pattern repeats. Again this is all just personal preference but what i played around with is as you stamp rotate the stamp randomly and go back over some spots. This gives the stamping look much more random appearance to it so when someone looks at it they dont see the same repeating shape over and over.
I see what you mean. Great tip. I will be sure to use it next project. Oh, and if you want, share your finished piece on the discord. Would love to see how it turns out! Thanks for watching and for the constructive criticism 👍
Bro your channel is tight! I didnt subscribe when i first came across the arm guards cause ive seen plenty of tutorials on that, but I'm glad your channel came across my feed again cause you have some great content, i love you diversify your skill set and try new projects! As for the dye, i know you've gotten a lot of advice but i figured it wouldn't hurt to give my experiences. Ive used tandys antique gel and noticed it will definitely darken the longer u let it sit. Maybe since your projects get bigger and bigger, the dye sits longer as you have more ground to cover, so it results darker? Fiebings pro dye os definitely where its at, only problem is they don't have as many colors as tandys eco flo. You still apply antique on top too. Good luck! Keep up the good work!
I am glad you circled back around! It's a blast doing so many different things. It's great to hear you enjoy the diversity of skill attempted. Thanks for watching!😁👍
the dye is level of saturation. i went through 4 oz of light brown dye on my helm and still needed another few coats to match the darkness of the rest of the face shield. you can apply more dye if needed, providing you have not applied the topcoat. look into dip-dye, Weaver leather element. dip-dye for consistency.
@@SkillTree if you HAVE applied the topcoat, you can apply a deglazer and remove it, re-touch the dye, and reapply the atomwax. useful for belts shoes bags and wallets too.
@Skill Tree strip the top coat off your armor set. you can keep dying it, to get consisity. It will not keep getting darker. It will become one solid tone. Make sure your mixing your dye well before using. I also recommend fiebings leather dye.
I use a lot of the pro dye (mostly saddle tan and a couple browns) and I've never seen the saddle tan that dark before, not without other products interfering. The pro dyes are an oil based pigment, but the carrier is still alcohol so it can evaporate over time. I'd try a few test squares, one with some of the dye diluted with alcohol. If none of your test pieces make sense, it's always possible you got a weird batch. Oh, and instead of brushes you may like how the angelus dye pens work, or search amazon for refillable watercolor pens. Much more control over the dye with the pens.
Great tips! I got some new dye too but I believe I held on to the old one. If so, I"ll conduct experiments and let you know how it goes. Also, I will ABSOLUTELY be getting some dye pens. Thanks for the advice and for watching!
@@SkillTree Anytime man, the pens were a game changer for me. And thanks for the videos! A video of your findings would be pretty awesome since no one has covered that issue before.
All the dyes that I've used have a solid powder pigment suspended in a liquid. prior to each use shake the bottle to mix it up before use to mix the color in the liquid. this will help keep the color more even. But be warned, if you use the dye all the way to the bottom of the bottle it will be much darker than when you started. But they do make a dye thinner if you really want to try to use up the residue. But it's more trouble than it's worth in my opinion
Can I ask a question. What kind of leather you use to make that armor. The size of it and how much it cost. By the way I'm from the Philippines, every Easter Sunday we are performing a street play called Senakulo. It's all about Passion of the Christ. I want to make the armour and the helmet of the soldiers more realistic. Hopefully you can help me to make my dream become reality. Thanks in advance. By the way. I love your armor. It looks so cool. 😎😎😎
Thanks! That sounds like a GREAT idea! This armor is made from 8oz vegetable tanned leather. The cost is tricky as it may be different for where you are. You can look online for a side of 8oz veg tan leather and see the price. I payed about $80 for it at my local leather shop.
Hey I just subscribed and I think I might know your problem with the dye is. You maybe putting on different amounts on to the different pieces. Also you should make sure that you shake/mix your dye before you use it.
Chemicals used in dyes will easily 'age' into other shades over time. It's the same in my business as a Custom jeweler - enameling will change jsut sitting in the bottle. It's a slow chemical reaction that occurs. Although there are usually no "expiration dates" on dyes, maybe there should be. AND each 'dye batch' from the manufacturer will be slightly different - the main reason when you buy carpeting you should buy enough to do the whole job at one time.
Hello! The scaley stamp you used to make the background while tooling isn't on the tool set you have in the description, right? Could you point me to where I can get that specific tool?
Love the simplicity of this. Not too tough and yet week thought out. I do have to ask, you think 12oz vegi leather be doable the same process for hardening?
It will work for the shaping of the leather, definitely. To harden the leather, you want to soak it in hot (not boiling) water until bubbles stop. Then shape it how you please. Finally, bake it at a low temp (as low as your oven can go) until dry. I did some hardening in my latest "witcher bracers". At least that's how I learned 😁
Did you shake the saddle tan container some times small solids settle at the bottom that's what happened to my black leather dye making it a lighter gray instead of black.
The dye will not ever be the same because it does seperate and settle. It changes based off how much you shake it and how long you wait after you shake to use it. You might be able to use a darker dye and go over all the miss match parts
Good to know! I was freaking mystified by it. I love all of the pieces, i think I would worry a bit about ruining them if the stain doesn't look good 😓
@@SkillTree I used to have a problem with inconsistent colors depending on the dye I was using. Now if I use the Eco-Flo waterstain, I made sure to lightly mist the leather(not quite a casing soak) and sponge first. I usually let the leather dry twice before using the dye. If I use an oil dye like Fiebings ProDye then I pour it into a wide-mouth tupperware, blue-tape areas that will have other dye, and use foam brushes to apply and then use a light slathering of an antique gel to make it pop. Haven't had any issues since.
What do we think would happen if we coated all the pieces of such a currass with several layers of Line-X? I've seen a single layer of that stuff take some pretty serious damage...
Hi! There is a misunderstanding because you are saying dye but i have seen you using an antique in you leather helmet video and assume you are doing the same in this video! You can sort of dye with a antique but if you want a more uniform result on multiple pieces use a pro dye which penetrates the leather way deeper and more uniform than your antique does. It also helps if you dye when the leather is a little bit moist. The time you leave your antique on the leather will determin how dark it will turn your leather so this can result in different shades!!! A darker antique is normaly used after dyeing and resisting ( pro resist, tankote, resolene etc.) parts of your tooled design by applying it and quickly removing it to bring out the deeper tooling and natural marks in the leather. After that you apply your topcoat. 10 leather workers will have 10 different ways of doing the same thing! Just saying! Happy creating
Oh, that duct tape dummy...we just did this. The moment of cutting me out was...painful. It was so nice and cosy inside the duct tape, and then the cold steel touched my skin...shudder.
All the colors will eventually match eachother. It's just from absorbing oils from hands, Amount of dye used, exposure to sunlight. Just wear it and use it. It all works itself out
"It doesn't match!" *rant rant rant* yeah... that would so be me, except I might end up actually throwing something... well, something I was sure wouldn't break and wouldn't break anything else... but I'd do it many times.
Addressig Your problem with the dye, if you use a spray bottle like a old windex bottle or you can actually Buy ones for dye on the internet. Hope this helps!
So...how long did it remain shiny? How many hits, how much travelling before it was scruffy and scratched? Also, carving those detail patterns into it creates weak spots. Looks dope, but there is no value in being the prettiest corpse on the battlefield
This dude bragging about his big ribcage. I like that the different pieces don't match exactly. Makes it look like you could have picked up each piece on a different quest or whatever. Maybe that's just me. I like asymmetric and mismatched armour in my fantasy. Keep up the awesome work!
LOL! "Bragging about his ribcage" 🤣 I got a nipple on a rib going on over here. No brags. I was just assuming that may be YOUR strategy. I, on the other hand, made sure the armor covers, lol. Thanks for watching!
![Eminem - Temporary (feat. Skylar Grey) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZaK9Wi5ho0o/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow, glad I found your channel! You should (and I’m sure will) have a lot more subscribers. Video is clear, concise, entertaining and really makes one feel as though they could make this armour no problem. Thanks for the great content!
Thanks for the kind words and for joining the fam! I'm glad you enjoyed the video!😁
This one is even better! With the hardware at the end to add a cape! I haven't watched all of them yet(I will) but if you make shin guards and you'd almost have (with a little tweaking) a VERY authentic looking set of Roman armor. Hell yeah bro!!!
The edit...Roman leather sandals to go this shin guards! Thanks, love your videos!
@@sciencefirst7032 😁 thanks! I am glad you're enjoying the vids. I definitely want to make it a whole set. Leg armor coming soon! Hope you enjoy the rest of the channel! Thank you for watching!
this channel is going to be huge, instead of a skilled craftsman showing us unattainable projects we have a host that is learning as we are. good on ya mate!
Thank you! I am glad that comes across. I sometimes worry I sound like I am supposed to be some kind of authority on a subject when in actuality, 90% of the time I have no idea what I'm doing! Thanks for watching!
Im reading your reply as I'm making my chain mail coif, that was a great tutorial!
I’ve been leatherworking for going on six years. When it comes to your dye, different pieces of leather will take dye differently. It honestly doesn’t have anything to do with the age of your dye, you made the pieces from a different hide. If you want to have everything in a set match you need to buy an entire hide instead of a shoulder or double shoulder. This way you have plenty of material and everything will take dye the same way
My dad, who used to teach leather tooling, always reminds me that your tooling cuts should be about half the depth of the leather. Also, when dyeing leather two things, 1. Even if the leather is "identical", they will often dye differently unless they come from the same hide, usually. That's why saddle makers try make from one hide. 2. Use pro Dye. Such as Fiebing's Pro Dye. They are oil based and therefor dye more evenly and uniformly.
I like the tighter vest look of this. Makes it so you don't have to take it off for a party.
Not sure if anyone has mentioned, for casing, or wetting your leather, if you do the dip, put it in a plastic bag to "rest" for a few hours to overnight, that way the full thickness will be evenly damp. When you remove it form the bag, allow it to rest until it "LOOKS" dry, but if you hold it to your cheek it will feel cool, that is the perfect time to tool it, and when you need to dampen again, a light wipe with a damp sponge on the surface will do the trick and give you a great burnished finish to your tooling (That dark area where the impression from the tools is)
I love this tip. I have a bigger leather project coming up and will FOR SURE be trying this
A request if i may; If you could make foam horns, or just any material, that curved like ram horns. Would be really cool to see.
A set of spaulders should cover those decorative studs. And their straps can be hidden behind the armor.
Thinking of seeing if I can use this for an early crusader mandalorian.
I like it thank you for doing this
Glad you enjoyed! Thank you for watching!
Not sure if anyone has given advice on dyeing because I'm too lazy to scroll but here you go from a veteran leatherworker lol.
1) moisten the surface of the leather before dyeing. The moisture will allow the pores in the leather to expand and force the dye to settle more evenly after its application.
2) depending on how long your veg tanned leather sits around, the pores can close and can even become brittle if not used quickly enough.
3) daubers are great, but the BEST way to dye is by using a cheap airbrush. I recommend the Roadtec mobile airbrush.
4) have fun, keep.being creative. Great vid!
All GREAT advice. I had no idea that I should be wetting the leather first. It's funny, until just today I never thought if using an airbrush but your the second person in the last 24 hours to mention it. I will be picking one up this weekend. Thank you for the advice and for watching!
I can’t wait for my tools to come in and start hands on learning
Hello, for dye work its all about saturation level going over the same places will make it darker and Switching between the brush and the dauber will change the amount of saturation thus the dark and light streaking. Also shaking the bottle so the alcohol/oil base will have even amounts of pigment will help with coloration. If you decide to dip dye, use dye reducer and mix it with pro dye with the proper ratios. I would also recommend eco flo gel antiques as it brings out tooling work.. Tandy leather has free fundamental classes that go over basics like proper dyeing and sealing. The differences between a sealant and conditioners etc... they also have carving and tooling, stitching, and hardware setting. The piece you did turned out great and I'm excited to see the next set of videos!!
Ok so… Another AMAZING VIDEO as always… but I have an idea… do another one of these style armor rigs but… take and un-buckle the side buckles and leave the shoulders intact and lay it out end to end with the under side face up… then take and install chain mail… give them some shoulder drape sleeves and a fabric tie on the end to fasten the underside to keep from folding up and that would be absolutely awesome and still be flexible.
A really easy trick I've found for quickly/evenly dying leather is to use one of those Kiwi shoe polish dispensers that looks kinda like a bingo blotter. Unrelated, but I also wanted to share that I've found that the easiest way to shave down/debark LIVE wood is with a potato peeler. It makes arrows, bows, canes, staves, etc in a fraction of the time.
Epic armour
I love this!
Finally! Now we just need to see it all together (as soon as you get it matching...)
Still bothers me that they don't match! 🤬 that being said, I DO love this piece. Thanks for watching!
@@SkillTree you need boots to complete the set ;-)
its cool
Hi I just want to thank you for your inspiration and wittyness. it made me do crazy things
.
They actually make slicker brush bits for use with a Dremel. Very nice too!
You’re the first person who actually explained how to make the stencil in detail. Everyone glosses over that part.
Thank you!
Sir, for your dye issues, use Fiebing's Pro Dye. You then dip dye it and it will be even each time. You can also use a sponge. This is the only dye I will use from here on out. Be sure it's the PRO dye so it will be consistent and never crack your leather.
I have recently discovered the glory that is pro dye! You are so right! I will definitely try putting it on with a sponge next time. I have been using a rag. Thanks for the tips and for watching!
Yes! The time has come!!!!!
Lol! What you think?!?
It is truly amazing! The way you made it able to bend in the stomach is sweet! It will look dope all together! Now my friend! Now the thigh protector belt!!!
@@tonsonbloodaxe2605 🤣 you give me no time to rest! OK OK, I'll add it to the list!
Hahahaha now just imagine howbi am with projects lol got like 6 going at ones
Subscribed at 7:55 😂
Your wing dividers are fine, but have you considered a set of Jenny calipers (Odd leg). Also, for the smaller pieces, wouldn't dip dyeing them be better? Always enjoy your content.
That looks Great Mate and you look so happy 👍 😊
Thanks! It was a lot of fun 😁
Nice!
MVP Most Valuable Primate
Just WOW. You've outdone yourself with this one. I am amazed with how flexible it seems and can't wait to make my own. Maybe that'll be a Christmas gift to myself.
Glad you enjoyed! It kicked my butt, lol. Thanks for watching😁
@@SkillTree always
Another tip would be to try and hold on to the shirt you used for the pattern. Tape up the neck, body and arm holes, but not before stuffing it full of something like newspaper to make it rigid and correct to scale. That way you can put the wet leather on the body and form it to fit your body overnight.
To keep the shirt and not have to cut it up to make the pattern just cover it in plastic wrap and wrap the tape over that for the pattern version. This gives you both and also allows for a little extra wiggle room underneath for fitting.
Using the old t-shirt was inspired! Superb video I look forward to seeing more of your content!
AMAZING!!! this has been brewing in my mind for soooo long! This helps so much!
Glad you liked it, my Witcher friend! 😁
I'm in the process of making custom bracers not made from leather but my second pair will be thing is both will be able to be worn daily and extremely cut resistant and very long lasting
Great video, you always make great stuff. Any chance for a leather tabard video? Looking for something unique to wear over chainmail
Looks great!
Dont forget that you can make a custom mannequin the same way you made the pattern. Just fill it with foam or pillow stuffing =)
I NEED to do that. Just hanging my creations makes everything so much harder. Thanks for the tip!
@@SkillTree No problem. If you need some inspiration, check out Patina Leathercraft on Facebook. I make all kinds of leather stuff for a living here in Sweden.
I love the Drizzt intro.
Now bring it all together. Helmet, Spaulders, Cuirass, Bracers. Let's see the whole outfit
Are you on the discord? I can post a pic there. I just wish they all matched! Thanks for watching!
@@SkillTree not on discord. As of right now anyway
You can purchase burnishing attachments for drills which would give you much more control than using the handheld burnisher :)
This is awesome! You should do a Female one too!
I 100% want to! I will need to solicit my wife to steal her measurments!
@@SkillTree Awaiting facial reactions from her!😆🙏
@@MongZenT25 lots of deadpan stares and corked eyebrows🤣
@@SkillTree been a while since you made this video, was that a 'no' from Mrs Wife, or have I missed the video somewhere?
If you have a small drill press, it works better than the drill with the slicker, as you have both hands to hold the piece.
A few ideas for your list
Work out plan
Brewing Mead
Cocktails
And a financial literacy segment
I would love to see you make half plate like in D&D it’s a chainmail shirt with Pauldron’s and a leather or steel chest cover with chain sleeves and chain lower half
Instead of dye, for a black, you could use Vinagaroon. Just take plain old white vinegar, place it in a jar and add a few steel wool pads. Cap it and let sit a few weeks. the liquid you end up with will react with the tannin in leather or wood and turn black.
So i am like SUPER new to leather working... i just started a few weeks ago and havnt even finished my first chest piece yet... But after watching many videos i noticed you do something that i personally dont like to see. When you use the Matted Stamp when you look at your armor you can see it's super obvious where the pattern repeats. Again this is all just personal preference but what i played around with is as you stamp rotate the stamp randomly and go back over some spots. This gives the stamping look much more random appearance to it so when someone looks at it they dont see the same repeating shape over and over.
I see what you mean. Great tip. I will be sure to use it next project. Oh, and if you want, share your finished piece on the discord. Would love to see how it turns out! Thanks for watching and for the constructive criticism 👍
Another great video! How about making shearling slippers?
You know... that's a good idea. New England winters suck and, my friend.... winter is coming.
Man that shit is dope son love it
How about revisiting with a harden battle version 🙏
“It doesn’t match!” (Cue scene from 40 Year Old Virgin where Steve Carrell wanders through apartment screaming in frustration.)
Bro your channel is tight! I didnt subscribe when i first came across the arm guards cause ive seen plenty of tutorials on that, but I'm glad your channel came across my feed again cause you have some great content, i love you diversify your skill set and try new projects!
As for the dye, i know you've gotten a lot of advice but i figured it wouldn't hurt to give my experiences. Ive used tandys antique gel and noticed it will definitely darken the longer u let it sit. Maybe since your projects get bigger and bigger, the dye sits longer as you have more ground to cover, so it results darker? Fiebings pro dye os definitely where its at, only problem is they don't have as many colors as tandys eco flo. You still apply antique on top too. Good luck! Keep up the good work!
I am glad you circled back around! It's a blast doing so many different things. It's great to hear you enjoy the diversity of skill attempted. Thanks for watching!😁👍
the dye is level of saturation. i went through 4 oz of light brown dye on my helm and still needed another few coats to match the darkness of the rest of the face shield. you can apply more dye if needed, providing you have not applied the topcoat. look into dip-dye, Weaver leather element. dip-dye for consistency.
Great tip! So good to have a solution.Thanks!
@@SkillTree if you HAVE applied the topcoat, you can apply a deglazer and remove it, re-touch the dye, and reapply the atomwax.
useful for belts shoes bags and wallets too.
@@BINDRUNE oooooooh 😮. SOLID tip!
@Skill Tree strip the top coat off your armor set. you can keep dying it, to get consisity. It will not keep getting darker. It will become one solid tone. Make sure your mixing your dye well before using. I also recommend fiebings leather dye.
5:41 MVP, Most Valuable Primate? ;)
7:55 I felt that!! I would have freaked out as well XD
PS: Just found your channel and I really love it! keep doing what makes you happy )
I was so upset 🤣. I think my new way of deying will be more consistent though 🤞. Thanks for joining the fam!
Nice!!!
Thank you for watching!
Always man. I was hoping this was the sneak peek you gave us. Lol
Wish it was that easy to make a metal version
I use a lot of the pro dye (mostly saddle tan and a couple browns) and I've never seen the saddle tan that dark before, not without other products interfering. The pro dyes are an oil based pigment, but the carrier is still alcohol so it can evaporate over time. I'd try a few test squares, one with some of the dye diluted with alcohol. If none of your test pieces make sense, it's always possible you got a weird batch. Oh, and instead of brushes you may like how the angelus dye pens work, or search amazon for refillable watercolor pens. Much more control over the dye with the pens.
Great tips! I got some new dye too but I believe I held on to the old one. If so, I"ll conduct experiments and let you know how it goes. Also, I will ABSOLUTELY be getting some dye pens. Thanks for the advice and for watching!
@@SkillTree Anytime man, the pens were a game changer for me. And thanks for the videos! A video of your findings would be pretty awesome since no one has covered that issue before.
New request Runescape Bandos Chestplate and tassets I am making some for FanExpo Denver 2022!
All the dyes that I've used have a solid powder pigment suspended in a liquid. prior to each use shake the bottle to mix it up before use to mix the color in the liquid. this will help keep the color more even. But be warned, if you use the dye all the way to the bottom of the bottle it will be much darker than when you started. But they do make a dye thinner if you really want to try to use up the residue. But it's more trouble than it's worth in my opinion
How about sandblasting glass artwork.
Cool segments. I'm currently doing kozane plates for my armor. Unfortunately I ran out of material and cash for more :\
Ugh, been there! Hopefully you can get back on track soon!
Can I ask a question. What kind of leather you use to make that armor. The size of it and how much it cost.
By the way I'm from the Philippines, every Easter Sunday we are performing a street play called Senakulo. It's all about Passion of the Christ. I want to make the armour and the helmet of the soldiers more realistic.
Hopefully you can help me to make my dream become reality. Thanks in advance. By the way. I love your armor. It looks so cool. 😎😎😎
Thanks! That sounds like a GREAT idea! This armor is made from 8oz vegetable tanned leather. The cost is tricky as it may be different for where you are. You can look online for a side of 8oz veg tan leather and see the price. I payed about $80 for it at my local leather shop.
Hey I just subscribed and I think I might know your problem with the dye is. You maybe putting on different amounts on to the different pieces. Also you should make sure that you shake/mix your dye before you use it.
Thank you for the tip! I will try some test pieces and see if I can replicate 😁👍
Chemicals used in dyes will easily 'age' into other shades over time. It's the same in my business as a Custom jeweler - enameling will change jsut sitting in the bottle. It's a slow chemical reaction that occurs. Although there are usually no "expiration dates" on dyes, maybe there should be. AND each 'dye batch' from the manufacturer will be slightly different - the main reason when you buy carpeting you should buy enough to do the whole job at one time.
You can also make your own dyes from plant sources with Everclear.
Hello! The scaley stamp you used to make the background while tooling isn't on the tool set you have in the description, right? Could you point me to where I can get that specific tool?
Love the simplicity of this. Not too tough and yet week thought out. I do have to ask, you think 12oz vegi leather be doable the same process for hardening?
It will work for the shaping of the leather, definitely. To harden the leather, you want to soak it in hot (not boiling) water until bubbles stop. Then shape it how you please. Finally, bake it at a low temp (as low as your oven can go) until dry. I did some hardening in my latest "witcher bracers". At least that's how I learned 😁
If each piece is from a different piece of leather that will make the color different. How much dye you you will effect the finished color.
Can you try to make a pair of greaves? (shin armor)
Will do! That should be coming up fairly soon as a matter of fact 😁. Thanks for the request!
Did you shake the saddle tan container some times small solids settle at the bottom that's what happened to my black leather dye making it a lighter gray instead of black.
The dye will not ever be the same because it does seperate and settle. It changes based off how much you shake it and how long you wait after you shake to use it. You might be able to use a darker dye and go over all the miss match parts
Good to know! I was freaking mystified by it. I love all of the pieces, i think I would worry a bit about ruining them if the stain doesn't look good 😓
@@SkillTree Another aspect to consider is where you store the chemical. A cool and dark cabinet is ideal for anything that would change a pigment.
@@SkillTree I used to have a problem with inconsistent colors depending on the dye I was using. Now if I use the Eco-Flo waterstain, I made sure to lightly mist the leather(not quite a casing soak) and sponge first. I usually let the leather dry twice before using the dye. If I use an oil dye like Fiebings ProDye then I pour it into a wide-mouth tupperware, blue-tape areas that will have other dye, and use foam brushes to apply and then use a light slathering of an antique gel to make it pop. Haven't had any issues since.
What do we think would happen if we coated all the pieces of such a currass with several layers of Line-X? I've seen a single layer of that stuff take some pretty serious damage...
Rivet stainless steel plates to the cuirass
Hi! There is a misunderstanding because you are saying dye but i have seen you using an antique in you leather helmet video and assume you are doing the same in this video! You can sort of dye with a antique but if you want a more uniform result on multiple pieces use a pro dye which penetrates the leather way deeper and more uniform than your antique does. It also helps if you dye when the leather is a little bit moist. The time you leave your antique on the leather will determin how dark it will turn your leather so this can result in different shades!!! A darker antique is normaly used after dyeing and resisting ( pro resist, tankote, resolene etc.) parts of your tooled design by applying it and quickly removing it to bring out the deeper tooling and natural marks in the leather. After that you apply your topcoat. 10 leather workers will have 10 different ways of doing the same thing! Just saying! Happy creating
Sorry it took so long to thank you for this tip! I have since started using pro dye and the difference is night and day!😀
Shouldn't set rivets on your marble slab. Use an anvil to avoid cracking your slab. Pretty cool armor piece though.
Have you thought of wax hardening your armour and helmet?
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Oh, that duct tape dummy...we just did this. The moment of cutting me out was...painful. It was so nice and cosy inside the duct tape, and then the cold steel touched my skin...shudder.
Every woman I know who has built their own corset has used the shirt trick to do it
wow it's amazing how you do it. what leather is it?
Can anyone tell me which leather to use. Send buy links is the best!!
Can you please make a gorget to go along with your chest armor
Can you please link the leather that you use? I found Tandy Leather, but there are so many options and I do not see anything labeled 8oz.
All the colors will eventually match eachother. It's just from absorbing oils from hands, Amount of dye used, exposure to sunlight.
Just wear it and use it. It all works itself out
Also never dye wet leather. But you may already know that
Will there be templates?
If you wanna harden the leather, soak it then make it in the over. Be careful because too long and it will become brittle.
make the legs match the cuirass maybe that will work
We will see if I have enough of the current dye. The issue is that I am unsure if I can match toe color my current dye has become 🤣
@@SkillTree hope it works out
"It doesn't match!" *rant rant rant*
yeah... that would so be me, except I might end up actually throwing something... well, something I was sure wouldn't break and wouldn't break anything else... but I'd do it many times.
Lol. Yeah. I was DEEPLY miffed about that. It's fine. I guess I will just HAVE TO make another set 🤣
Can this be used for legit motorcycle armor (minus the helmet)
I would look up how thick people might recommend it being for that application but I don't see why not.
Use 10 oz or thicker and harden it, and yeah it should! That's how you make actual battle armor so it should be good for biking!
Addressig Your problem with the dye, if you use a spray bottle like a old windex bottle or you can actually Buy ones for dye on the internet. Hope this helps!
Wrap itself in cling film before U use the duct tape. Saves U destroying a shirt
Leg armor please please please please!
Sure thing! On the list! Thank you for watching.
Navy blue leaves a red tint. Anyone want to guess why?
Do tell!
@@SkillTree no I dont know lol im asking of anyone knows why
@@rockinHurley777 oh lol. My gut would be a separation in the pigments that make up your particular shade of blue. But I am no expert.
If it makes you feel any better leather chest armor would become darker due to the blood of your enemies so no worries!
What did it cost to make this
🤔 Not counting tools... Probably just over $100. The leather was roughly $70 and all of the fittings and dye would put me in that ballpark.
I don’t know why I’m having such a hard time making the points.
I dont have dope abs.... i like food
Lol... same😅
11:10 to 11:20 is US immigration policy
So...how long did it remain shiny? How many hits, how much travelling before it was scruffy and scratched? Also, carving those detail patterns into it creates weak spots. Looks dope, but there is no value in being the prettiest corpse on the battlefield
This dude bragging about his big ribcage.
I like that the different pieces don't match exactly. Makes it look like you could have picked up each piece on a different quest or whatever. Maybe that's just me. I like asymmetric and mismatched armour in my fantasy.
Keep up the awesome work!
LOL! "Bragging about his ribcage" 🤣 I got a nipple on a rib going on over here. No brags. I was just assuming that may be YOUR strategy. I, on the other hand, made sure the armor covers, lol. Thanks for watching!
Will this still work for a girl? Me being a girl I know clothes don’t always fit the same between the different genders so please let me know!
Zombie प्रूफ