All good, sensible advice and will pay huge benefits for anyone keeping their bike for many years. Love the sound of the motor, as you were running around town. The microphone was perfect for hearing every word you said, against the backdrop of that sweet engine sound.
That's exactly how it should be done, the short heat cycle runs are important at the beginning. I took my time running the bike in, even now, I always do a two minute warm up, just letting the bike idle before setting off, a slow ride around my neighborhood, then gentle on the throttle until the bike warns up. Take care mate
Excellent advice. I wait until the fast tickover drops out and the revs settle - about 2 to 3 minutes. Then I ride gently for the first few minutes after that. Having said that I treat all my bikes (and cars) like that. They all deserve a degree of mechanical sympathy and you should never cane a cold motor. We ride two up most of the time but my Fiancée stayed off for the first 180 miles on the Classic 350. Also, I avoided hills for the same reason. The first time with pillion we only went for about 10 miles. The following day, riding solo to work I could feel a significant difference and it had loosened up quite a bit. Gently increasing the load and speed pays dividends in the end. I've covered 350 miles now and the bike is going in for it's first service this week.
G'day Warro. Brilliant timing. I receive my new Classic 350 signals (Baby poop brown) Tuesday. I was going to flick you a question exactly on the topic of this clip. Thank you heaps. I have never really understood the "ride it like you stole it" running in philosophy. Not too many flat area's where I live. So my around town runs will need to be well chosen, and perhaps a bit repetitive. Anyway, thanks again. Love your passion and the content. Cheers. David B.
i had that colour or near it with the pegasus 500. i might have to take a look at that. now seeing i ride your area pretty often and know it well - run watson then hill st to cumnock turn off swing to hospital and criss cross all the side roads -run william to high school back to watson and over bride and along bett st and repeat...lol
None of my motorcycles has a heal/toe shifter, but looking at some of my boots, I can appreciate the advantage of having one to protect the shifting toe on an riding boot. You certainly live in a good location to properly break-in a new motorcycle engine. Where I live to get to one side of town to the other side you need to get on a freeway posted for 55 mph, where everyone goes 75 mph - even the cops. To follow your excellent advice, I would have to ride around and around my local subdivision for the length of the break-in period, which would not be much fun. But even riding locally, about half of the streets have steep hills, which can be tough on a tight engine. So breaking in a new Royal Enfield in my area that is not the 650 twin would be a challenge to accomplish properly. Plus, it would be impossible to ride a brand new bike from the nearest RE dealer to my home without exceeding 55 mph for at least 45 minutes. If only RE would make a 500cc version of the Meteor for export. The chassis could certainly deal with the extra power and torque;
i think its very important to run enfields in and thats why i had both shipped the 150 miles home. if i had no choice but ride both home i'd say i'd sold both by now as disappointments. here's why out of 15 new enfield 500/350 not counting the new 350's -6 i was hard on and never followed running them in. if fact a couple i put on 60 mph withing 30 miles. 4 of the new 500 stock bikes lost power at exact the 250 mile mark while 2 modified bikes running sports ehaust and filter etc burnt out inlet valve at 350 miles iv had guys say on he channel-i cant afford to have it freighted and run it in properly but they can afford to buy it...lol my advise would be buy a new cb500x- ive had 4 new and they are a far better bike in all area but they miss out on the main one. no character or feel good ride experience enfields run all over every other bike in this category and thats why i really enjoy the experience so much. these new 350's are the best single enfield has produced to date. i will never own a 500 again unless it sits in this platform
Got my new classic 350 Halcyon Black at the End of May i agree the gearchange lever is a bit strange especially with normal motorcycle boots only riding around locally riding 10 to 15 miles and then letting it cool off following your advice. As a machine i think its very good and well worth the money.Greetings from Suffolk UK Great videos Warro stay safe.
Hi Warro,got my Halcyon black couple of days back.Your observation of snappy clutch is spot on.I felt that i was making mistake while releasing clutch.Also will gear shift improve over time?Especially 1st to 2 nd and neutral is not smooth....Also pl throw some light on engine heating ,whether it will reduce over time?
THANK YOU Warro. GREAT advice. VERY MUCH APPRECIATED. You have done all the Hard Yakka for us. Thank you for your knowledge and wisdom. Worth a Bomb !!! Regards.
G'day Warro, great advice for anyone who getting a new bike, l ran my Interceptor in much the same way, it's done 4000 now and runs sweet and strong, cheers mate, Neil 🤠.
Well said! im not far behind you with 3200 kl on the grey/blue. been thinking i might ride the green more. i have the new kawasaki klx150 arriving next month shipment so plan to do some drone and bike runs wih it. one of the better off-road bikes i've bought since playing again with bikes. that good after selling it i regretted the move and now its a second chance draw.
@@ridewithwarro hi mate, you are like me l love all Motorcycles Only l would love to be able to ride them all, you seam to be trying to achieve that aim, how many bike's have you had? Look forward to your next episodes, cheers.
@@ridewithwarro hi mate, l have only had 21 bike's so far and still ride five of the best, l take my hat of to you you rich bastard, cheers mate, Neil.
Hi Warro, Sorry to bother you again, but so happy you are here. Do you continue with the heat cycle up to 800km or even further? Whilst warming up initially would a five minute warm up, idling, cause any harm? Maybe stupid question but I'd been told warming up to long could hurt the motor. I want to do it right. I wouldn't be getting the bike if it weren't for your videos. Royal Enfield should know how many people you've help. Thanks for your encouragement!
i wouldnt do a 5 minute or longer warm up. one to wo mins max and get on and ride but dont abuse it. i tested these motorsseeral times and it takes from a cold start to get the oil warm roughly 20 minutes or a 25 to 30 klm run. this i tested several times under different daily temps and that how it worked out mine has 700 klm on the green and yesterday i rode 25 kl and rested it for 5 or so minutes and moved off again. i will keep doing this till i hit 1200 klm but just lengthen the ride cycle priorto the rest as i close in on the 1200 mark it may or may not help but i feel its for the better and after the run-in all is complete and its trouble free riding. what i would do is stay away from top speed till 2000 kl. there no need to even try the party is over at roughly 118 kph
@@ridewithwarro Cheers Mate, I sooo much appreciate the detailed answer. I will follow your plan exactly. I've have the confidence to do this because you've taken care to produce such clear, understandable videos. I'm certain you've helped many people trying to decide which way to go. Thank you so much! Stay Safe, Stay Free
thank you for another informative video! any chance you make a more detailed video about the taco and how to install one like it? still waiting for my 350 to be delivered >.
Sure thing! next clip out i will show you. you should pre-order one on ebay as it comes in handy to run around that 3000 rev mark. easy to fit and remove and no battery required
Been running it in by the book, but for the 1st 100 miles did it 10 miles at a time. Doing the next 200 miles 15 miles at a time, got the 1st service on thursday coming. Fitted the seat springs as per your video and also the fat footpegs, then move the gear lever up 1 notch.
next mod for you -try my classic 500 rear shocks. believe me these ride rough in stock compared to the shock swap. i noticed the difference immediately on this clip compared to many klm on the halcyon grey with the 500 shocks upgrade. always good to beable to switch from one bike to the other and its picked up immediately
Excellent informative video warro from someone who knows wot there talking about! Well done! Am assuming it would be the same for the Meteor as it’s Basically the same engine? Ride safely
I'm taking delivery of my Marsh Grey soon. Very excited and appreciate the advice. Your exhaust sounds great. Is that with the standard silencer and intake?
totally stock in that area and i see no reson to change it. not overpowering and in reality sure loud exhausts sound good but so do ear plugs...lol good choice on colour too. if i was buying one thats the colour...lol all the best!
That advise sounds about right, however, i live 50 ks away from the dealer and out in the country so i cant avoid steep hills and a 15 minute ride lol, guess ile just baby it over the hills without laboring the engine and hope for the best, Cheers
Also, on this bike the first oil change is at about 500 km, the manual says. But if you look through the little glass on the engine the oil isn't very dirty. Could I wait till about a 1000 km to change oil, perhaps? What do you think?
you could take a risk and do just that and never have an issue but i come from a background owning 15 new C5s...lol now these are much cleaner motors than those units but i look at it as it only costs me $25 to do the oil change plus its peace of mind but either way i'd do the drop at 500 regardless just to get some clean oil/filter in.
Hello, I follow YOU on RUclips and see your love for locomotives. I also ordered Nmax recently and would like to ask YOU about the problems of this car. What should I pay attention to in the later stage and what are the modifications
I understand your running-in methods, Warro. But aren't these new engines better made than the original ones back in the day? I'm rather new to motorcycling, so I have very little experience, but what I've heard is that modern day engines are already pretty ran-in from the factory as they test them pretty hard in the dyno before installing them. Does it make any real sense doing these running-ins on new bikes these days?
well if say i was on any of my previous new bikes like say honda/suzuki or yamaha i'd say just go out and ride it normal....lol but enfields - i had 2 c5's drop intake valves in under 700 and 1000 klm total just by riding them quick the new 350's are better built for sure and a much cleaner motor in the eternals but i don't like to take the risk with them honda or yamaha are built far better than these and ive had that many new ones ride one and there all the same. now once you do run them in they are a fun ride indeed. by the way a few years back a dealer told me he sold a new C5 to a guy who rode it 130 klm home non stop at 100 kph plus. a rattle developed in the motor-big end - and the motor was shot at under 200 klm and had a complete new motor fitted. not many get to hear that one...lol
Hello Warro, Thank you very much for this video. It's exactly what I was looking for. I'm getting my Classic 350 this weekend. So I'll be breaking it in for the first 500-1,000 km in the autumn and maybe winter. Since I am a new rider after 10 years and this is my first new bike, I wanted to ask if there is anything special to consider regarding the break-in at low temperatures between 0 and 10° C (32 - 50° F)? Greetings from Germany Achim
looking at those temps its more like my winter period here. at the moment its winter and temps are below 0c to roughly 10c i would look at say a 2 minute idle from a cold start before i started riding it. plus only short runs of 10 to 15 klm then a total cool down for the first 100 klm. after that longer runs and same as above. just don't race the engine. maybe a good idea would be to fit a battery tender too so your battery is fully charged each time you hit that starter button
Yep heat is the biggest killer in a new motor. Short trips as you said is the way to go initially. Also the worst thing you can do is lug the motor. Better to have the revs a bit higher than load a new motor. I also shut the throttle off now and then. Cheers. What penrite was that you are using again?
@@TallyHoTech as little as 300 klm on new bad ones and up to 10,000 klm on a few good ones. ive had 20 in total including c5's himalayan/interceptors/535gt so i know immediately if its worth keeping or not so far i still have both new 350's and they are very good bikes. very impressed with these new 350's. i think one could ride one of these anywhere as they have never given me any problems to be a concern. just a really good reliable bike
Hi Warro, does your Enfield pull to the right when you release your grip on the bars whilst riding... I've noticed this on two of my Enfield so far. The 650 Interceptor did it and now just bought the classic 350 and this one's the same. Any insight into this from you would be great. Thanks.
sorry no issues in that area. only real issue to date is a sticky speedo which is being replaced. your issue may be related to wheel balance -thats something you could ask them apart from that what do you think of it?
@@ridewithwarro Absolute gem of a bike mate. It's impossible not to like it. I'm pretty fussy with bikes having owned over 50 and this one has nothing you can complain about. I'll have the RE dealer look into the wheel balance for me like you mentioned, Thank-you. Can't wait to run it in and open it up! 👍
Hi Warro, still waiting fore my bike butt when i gett it i must start the running in, this is my first running in since i have only gotten second hand Biks/cars . the thing is you are sying you dont ride hills ? only flatt i cant do that i have hills every ware i cant get home if i dont do hills only do short trips to avoide heat of engine ? and hope enfield vill get an optional rpm meter to putt in sted of the tripper !
well its not a case of totally avoiding hills if you must just take it easy and use lower gears to do the climbing -not try and pull them in top gear. let the gearbox do the work rather than the motor
Appreciate it! i think its pretty well on target. ive been very careful on the run-in on the blue so can say it worked well and i followed over with this green. i was out again today and did a 15 kl trip only i was a bit hard on running some 500's in-that's why 6 of them bit the dust if you dont show enfields some running in respect.....get ready for issues/trouble!
id say no if nothing goes wrong and possible issues if something does happen. i dont really care as i can rip them apart myself or a fair bit of them but i'd advise if close to the dealer -let them do it. im a 500 klm run so that ruins that. besides i bet even if i put it in simething would not be done right and i'd have another 500 kl return visit. after all a previous new bike arrived at my premises and the fork springs were in the wrong way. now how did that get past the inspecion when the front forks were locked in place...lol
on a new motor and around time riding i think pull over and let it cool for 10 minutes and then carry on. that should be good enough and dont ride slow in the higher gears
have not really looked but i suppose there would be one around some-where. at the moment i'd be more interested in a dummy amp gauge the right diameter to house in the area
just use mainly the first 4 gears and stay away from steep hills. ive also have the new hunter and done 180 kl on it and in good open flat country i ride it 70 kph in 5th and sometimes hit 80 kph or 50 mph. the important factor in the run in. don't ride it hard and give it quite a few rests for a cool down on engine temp. if riding and bike smells hot..pull over for 5 minutes ...let it cool.
Warro, I only just thought of a question. I have a identical C350 H/Grey to yours and I put an 'after market muffler' on it and the engine 'pops' when I up change through the gear box. WHAT would be cause of this Please?? (too rich, too lean, needs more/less 'packing' in the baffle/muffler???? /Solution.) PLEASE Help. THANK YOU Warro. I APPRECIATE you help and wisdom and knowledge.
i would pop that muffler in the bin and accept what you have in stock form as a pretty good bike...lol popping and surging usually follows and so does burnt out valves. plus i did burn out the inlet valve on two new c5's with only 700 klm on the clock with sports exhaust riding them hard. main reason being one gets up it more to hear the note. i did a sound check with sports exhaust but its pulled now. if you must continue you must play it safe and thats with the help of a powertronic fuelx to add more gas to the mix. at the moment that may help you. when i tried it the bike ran better with sports exhaust fitted but no better with stock exhaust that may be an option for you if you really want to go sports but while thinking about your move i'd pull the sports and add it again once your running a fueler of some type. once the easy way out was a booster plug but i dont think they make them for the newer 021 plus models
@@ridewithwarro THANK YOU Warro, I will do that. I will biff the 'sports muffler' and reinstall the original. I do not want to get involved with any electronic fuel mapping. - Beyond my scope !! The original muffler did sound Very Good anyway. And about the same weight too which I found very surprising. THANK YOU SO VERY VERY MUCH. I do APPRECIATE the time and effort in you replying to me. Hav a gd 1 sir.
@@ridewithwarro THANK YOU Warro. Just swapped it (muffler) over and the ORIGINAL IS better. NO popping or backfiring or anything. Runs like a dream. Lesson Learnt!!! Thanks again.
yeah i saw that ant in the clip when i did the edit. i bet its the furtherest it had travelled in its entire life in say just over 15 minutes...lol that being subject to staying on the ride...
Thanks Warro. I've been running in my Meteor according to the instructions in the manual, which isn't so much different from your method, apart from your initial shorter heat cycles. Cheers
Glad I could help. i did 15 kl on the green today in 10c temp and the bike came in hot so thats why ionly run short hits around town. i expect that to change when i hit 200/300 klm mark
Wow... That means 20 runs of 10-15km's before you have done the 1st run in cycle. That is going to take me weeks... Not eaven talking about the 200-500km mark... Holy moly... and the first 200km at below 60km/h...that means it lumbers like a (rather slow) moped... That is going to take me weeks to get there... 😯
try this run the bike 15 klm and take it home. give it 2 or 3 hours and repeat. you'll know when you have overdone it. once you get off bike will smell hot or burnt. thats why its important to do it properly. do it wrong and damage ocurrs -nothing will fix it apart from a rebuild. if you ride them hard and suddenly experience a cough or miss-you can bet you have damaged the motor and it will be down on power. stay away from sports muffler or any other crap. just run it in stock and do it properly and the reward in return will be worth it. run it in hard and quick -get ready to sell or repair it
Hi Warro, I will pick my new Classic 350 in Two weeks, My concern is that I pick up the new bike in Cairns and have to ride Home to Cooktown FNQ, It's a distance of 325 km on the new highway, No choice have ride home, the bike will only have about 10km on the clock, I'm retired so time not an issue, What procedure on return to Cooktown, 28-30 degree days, And advice I should take ,
hard call there as i usually trailer or transport them home. saying that and you said you have plenty of time so use it! i'd run the first 25 klm around the town using the gears then give it a good 10 minute rest. i'd then head off on the trip home and run it along between 60 and 80 kph using 4 and 5 gear to vaary engine revs. after you have clock 200 klm then i think you could run it along at 90 at times but stay away from higher speeds.....i think that is very important. depending on terrain you'll get a good idea how far you can travel and how long to rest it. om hills go back to lower gears like 3rd and let it run up not working it hard. i'd say if that was me i'd be looking at a good 10 rest stops and heres why. out of 15 new classics and 13 were the 500 two i got them from the dealer and did a slow easy 50 klm break in then ran them fast like 100 kph. both bikes shit themselves in 700 klm and one burnt out a valve. this new j motor is far better than the old uce 500 or 350 jobs. you may get better advice from some-one reading this but i've only had 20 new enfields and thats how i'd do it. plus once home i'd drop that oil and put in new stuff too. 500 motors were that dirty i'd do oil change at 50klm/200/500 and a 1000. clean motors are healthy motors. do the right thing by the classic 350 reborn and you'll be very pleased you bought it. the new j motor i think is enfields best single
@@ridewithwarro thank you very much for your advice and time , I will now do the ride home over two days and change oil at 150km, and follow your advice very carefully, Thanks again for your time and valuable advice, I really enjoy your utube channel 👍
@@DarrylWain well change oil when you get it bacvk home. i did that with mine -ran it 300 klm and dropped the oil. it was clean but again mostly around town running so i left the filter in and just changed the oil. 2 days sdounds good. just ride it slow and dont labour it in the gears and do regular stop and rests for 10 minutesor you'll notice the bike will smell hot. most do to start with but dont ride hard and cook it
@@ridewithwarro okay 👍, I will take it very easy over 2 days with plenty of stops for the bike to cool down, I'll change the oil after I get " Miss Daisy" home. I'm looking forward to riding the new Classic well into my 70's, Thanks again Warro Love your work 👍
All good, sensible advice and will pay huge benefits for anyone keeping their bike for many years. Love the sound of the motor, as you were running around town. The microphone was perfect for hearing every word you said, against the backdrop of that sweet engine sound.
thanks and very happy you found the clip worthy of the view. all the best!
That's exactly how it should be done, the short heat cycle runs are important at the beginning. I took my time running the bike in, even now, I always do a two minute warm up, just letting the bike idle before setting off, a slow ride around my neighborhood, then gentle on the throttle until the bike warns up.
Take care mate
Well said! so far worked for me and its only bikes ive got up early which have crapped out later. in a short period too. all the best!
Excellent advice. I wait until the fast tickover drops out and the revs settle - about 2 to 3 minutes. Then I ride gently for the first few minutes after that. Having said that I treat all my bikes (and cars) like that. They all deserve a degree of mechanical sympathy and you should never cane a cold motor. We ride two up most of the time but my Fiancée stayed off for the first 180 miles on the Classic 350. Also, I avoided hills for the same reason. The first time with pillion we only went for about 10 miles. The following day, riding solo to work I could feel a significant difference and it had loosened up quite a bit. Gently increasing the load and speed pays dividends in the end. I've covered 350 miles now and the bike is going in for it's first service this week.
G'day Warro. Brilliant timing. I receive my new Classic 350 signals (Baby poop brown) Tuesday. I was going to flick you a question exactly on the topic of this clip. Thank you heaps. I have never really understood the "ride it like you stole it" running in philosophy. Not too many flat area's where I live. So my around town runs will need to be well chosen, and perhaps a bit repetitive. Anyway, thanks again. Love your passion and the content. Cheers. David B.
i had that colour or near it with the pegasus 500. i might have to take a look at that. now seeing i ride your area pretty often and know it well -
run watson then hill st to cumnock turn off swing to hospital and criss cross all the side roads -run william to high school back to watson and over bride and along bett st and repeat...lol
None of my motorcycles has a heal/toe shifter, but looking at some of my boots, I can appreciate the advantage of having one to protect the shifting toe on an riding boot. You certainly live in a good location to properly break-in a new motorcycle engine. Where I live to get to one side of town to the other side you need to get on a freeway posted for 55 mph, where everyone goes 75 mph - even the cops. To follow your excellent advice, I would have to ride around and around my local subdivision for the length of the break-in period, which would not be much fun. But even riding locally, about half of the streets have steep hills, which can be tough on a tight engine. So breaking in a new Royal Enfield in my area that is not the 650 twin would be a challenge to accomplish properly. Plus, it would be impossible to ride a brand new bike from the nearest RE dealer to my home without exceeding 55 mph for at least 45 minutes. If only RE would make a 500cc version of the Meteor for export. The chassis could certainly deal with the extra power and torque;
i think its very important to run enfields in and thats why i had both shipped the 150 miles home. if i had no choice but ride both home i'd say i'd sold both by now as disappointments. here's why
out of 15 new enfield 500/350 not counting the new 350's -6 i was hard on and never followed running them in. if fact a couple i put on 60 mph withing 30 miles.
4 of the new 500 stock bikes lost power at exact the 250 mile mark while 2 modified bikes running sports ehaust and filter etc burnt out inlet valve at 350 miles
iv had guys say on he channel-i cant afford to have it freighted and run it in properly but they can afford to buy it...lol
my advise would be buy a new cb500x- ive had 4 new and they are a far better bike in all area
but they miss out on the main one. no character or feel good ride experience
enfields run all over every other bike in this category and thats why i really enjoy the experience so much.
these new 350's are the best single enfield has produced to date.
i will never own a 500 again unless it sits in this platform
Great advice from an experienced rider! Will do this when I get my hands on my CRF300L in June.
Have fun! great choice of bike too
Thanks mate
No worries
Got my new classic 350 Halcyon Black at the End of May i agree the gearchange lever is a bit strange especially with normal motorcycle boots only riding around locally riding 10 to 15 miles and then letting it cool off following your advice. As a machine i think its very good and well worth the money.Greetings from Suffolk UK Great videos Warro stay safe.
plus a quick 2 min max adj on the gearlever and all is back to normal and it gets better with the heel and toe shifter too...or i think so....lol
Hi Warro,got my Halcyon black couple of days back.Your observation of snappy clutch is spot on.I felt that i was making mistake while releasing clutch.Also will gear shift improve over time?Especially 1st to 2 nd and neutral is not smooth....Also pl throw some light on engine heating ,whether it will reduce over time?
THANK YOU Warro. GREAT advice.
VERY MUCH APPRECIATED.
You have done all the Hard Yakka for us.
Thank you for your knowledge and wisdom. Worth a Bomb !!!
Regards.
happy to help or it worked well for me. all the best!
G'day Warro, great advice for anyone who getting a new bike, l ran my Interceptor in much the same way, it's done 4000 now and runs sweet and strong, cheers mate, Neil 🤠.
Well said! im not far behind you with 3200 kl on the grey/blue. been thinking i might ride the green more.
i have the new kawasaki klx150 arriving next month shipment so plan to do some drone and bike runs wih it.
one of the better off-road bikes i've bought since playing again with bikes.
that good after selling it i regretted the move and now its a second chance draw.
@@ridewithwarro hi mate, you are like me l love all Motorcycles Only l would love to be able to ride them all, you seam to be trying to achieve that aim, how many bike's have you had? Look forward to your next episodes, cheers.
@@norsehall309 well i caeback into bikes exactly 10 years ago so i have been through 54 new bikes....lol
@@ridewithwarro hi mate, l have only had 21 bike's so far and still ride five of the best, l take my hat of to you you rich bastard, cheers mate, Neil.
@@norsehall309 well two or three good bikes is far better than a heap of not so good bikes...lol
Thank you so much. Now I like the camera position
Good to hear! thats on the gopro chest mount with max lens mod .next time i will just have to lift it up a bit -so pretty close
@@ridewithwarro Ahhhh. then it will be perfect.
Great advice Warro running my marsh grey in at the moment ,also cant see the need to modify a 350 fo 1 extra horse.
Nice one!
Hi Warro,
Sorry to bother you again, but so happy you are here.
Do you continue with the heat cycle up to 800km or even further?
Whilst warming up initially would a five minute warm up, idling, cause any harm? Maybe stupid question but I'd been told warming up to long could hurt the motor.
I want to do it right. I wouldn't be getting the bike if it weren't for your videos. Royal Enfield should know how many people you've help.
Thanks for your encouragement!
i wouldnt do a 5 minute or longer warm up. one to wo mins max and get on and ride but dont abuse it.
i tested these motorsseeral times and it takes from a cold start to get the oil warm roughly 20 minutes or a 25 to 30 klm run.
this i tested several times under different daily temps and that how it worked out
mine has 700 klm on the green and yesterday i rode 25 kl and rested it for 5 or so minutes and moved off again.
i will keep doing this till i hit 1200 klm but just lengthen the ride cycle priorto the rest as i close in on the 1200 mark
it may or may not help but i feel its for the better and after the run-in all is complete and its trouble free riding.
what i would do is stay away from top speed till 2000 kl. there no need to even try the party is over at roughly 118 kph
@@ridewithwarro Cheers Mate,
I sooo much appreciate the detailed answer. I will follow your plan exactly. I've have the confidence to do this because you've taken care to produce such clear, understandable videos. I'm certain you've helped many people trying to decide which way to go. Thank you so much! Stay Safe, Stay Free
@@noneone2u all good there-catch ya later
Brake pedal ok on mine and the gear shifter just needed to be lifted up a notch... all good great bike
Right on. outright favourite bike i've been on. if fact on this green one again today filming a bit of autumn trees in the local town
thank you for another informative video! any chance you make a more detailed video about the taco and how to install one like it? still waiting for my 350 to be delivered >.
Sure thing! next clip out i will show you. you should pre-order one on ebay as it comes in handy to run around that 3000 rev mark. easy to fit and remove and no battery required
@@ridewithwarro thank you, looking forward to it!
Would love to see the tach install Warro! Great video
@@SuperFanny12345 will show info on fitting and link next clip
Been running it in by the book, but for the 1st 100 miles did it 10 miles at a time. Doing the next 200 miles 15 miles at a time, got the 1st service on thursday coming. Fitted the seat springs as per your video and also the fat footpegs, then move the gear lever up 1 notch.
next mod for you -try my classic 500 rear shocks. believe me these ride rough in stock compared to the shock swap.
i noticed the difference immediately on this clip compared to many klm on the halcyon grey with the 500 shocks upgrade.
always good to beable to switch from one bike to the other and its picked up immediately
Excellent breakin information. Bike looks and sounds great 👍.
Glad you enjoyed it! all the best F/N
Excellent informative video warro from someone who knows wot there talking about! Well done! Am assuming it would be the same for the Meteor as it’s Basically the same engine? Ride safely
i'd definately take notice of this if i just bought the older UCE 500. its good for all the singles or i think so going on past experience
I'm taking delivery of my Marsh Grey soon. Very excited and appreciate the advice. Your exhaust sounds great. Is that with the standard silencer and intake?
totally stock in that area and i see no reson to change it. not overpowering and in reality sure loud exhausts sound good but so do ear plugs...lol
good choice on colour too. if i was buying one thats the colour...lol
all the best!
That advise sounds about right, however, i live 50 ks away from the dealer and out in the country so i cant avoid steep hills and a 15 minute ride lol, guess ile just baby it over the hills without laboring the engine and hope for the best, Cheers
Fair enough! that would be the way to do it. on the dealership side your pretty lucky. to get mine tere and back would be a 450 klm round trip
Also, on this bike the first oil change is at about 500 km, the manual says. But if you look through the little glass on the engine the oil isn't very dirty. Could I wait till about a 1000 km to change oil, perhaps? What do you think?
you could take a risk and do just that and never have an issue but i come from a background owning 15 new C5s...lol
now these are much cleaner motors than those units but i look at it as it only costs me $25 to do the oil change plus its peace of mind
but either way i'd do the drop at 500 regardless just to get some clean oil/filter in.
Hello, I follow YOU on RUclips and see your love for locomotives. I also ordered Nmax recently and would like to ask YOU about the problems of this car. What should I pay attention to in the later stage and what are the modifications
just keep it stock and i really see no issues there
I understand your running-in methods, Warro. But aren't these new engines better made than the original ones back in the day? I'm rather new to motorcycling, so I have very little experience, but what I've heard is that modern day engines are already pretty ran-in from the factory as they test them pretty hard in the dyno before installing them. Does it make any real sense doing these running-ins on new bikes these days?
well if say i was on any of my previous new bikes like say honda/suzuki or yamaha i'd say just go out and ride it normal....lol
but enfields - i had 2 c5's drop intake valves in under 700 and 1000 klm total just by riding them quick
the new 350's are better built for sure and a much cleaner motor in the eternals but i don't like to take the risk with them
honda or yamaha are built far better than these and ive had that many new ones ride one and there all the same.
now once you do run them in they are a fun ride indeed.
by the way a few years back a dealer told me he sold a new C5 to a guy who rode it 130 klm home non stop at 100 kph plus. a rattle developed in the motor-big end - and the motor was shot at under 200 klm and had a complete new motor fitted.
not many get to hear that one...lol
Great info Warro.
Much appreciated. filled in a bit of time and i think a bit of good info
Hello Warro,
Thank you very much for this video. It's exactly what I was looking for. I'm getting my Classic 350 this weekend. So I'll be breaking it in for the first 500-1,000 km in the autumn and maybe winter. Since I am a new rider after 10 years and this is my first new bike, I wanted to ask if there is anything special to consider regarding the break-in at low temperatures between 0 and 10° C (32 - 50° F)?
Greetings from Germany
Achim
looking at those temps its more like my winter period here. at the moment its winter and temps are below 0c to roughly 10c
i would look at say a 2 minute idle from a cold start before i started riding it. plus only short runs of 10 to 15 klm then a total cool down for the first 100 klm. after that longer runs and same as above.
just don't race the engine.
maybe a good idea would be to fit a battery tender too so your battery is fully charged each time you hit that starter button
Thanks for info Warro, take care mate.
No worries. all the best!
Yep heat is the biggest killer in a new motor. Short trips as you said is the way to go initially. Also the worst thing you can do is lug the motor. Better to have the revs a bit higher than load a new motor. I also shut the throttle off now and then. Cheers. What penrite was that you are using again?
i've been using penrite hpr gas10 10w-50 semi-syn
What do you think of the Motoman method of running in
pretty good i think for idiots silly enough to follow him. i did it twice on brand new bikes and ruined both motors...lol
@@ridewithwarro Thanks for the Tip Wazza.How many Klms is the most you have done on a royal enfield?
@@TallyHoTech as little as 300 klm on new bad ones and up to 10,000 klm on a few good ones. ive had 20 in total including c5's himalayan/interceptors/535gt so i know immediately if its worth keeping or not
so far i still have both new 350's and they are very good bikes.
very impressed with these new 350's. i think one could ride one of these anywhere as they have never given me any problems to be a concern. just a really good reliable bike
Hi Warro, does your Enfield pull to the right when you release your grip on the bars whilst riding... I've noticed this on two of my Enfield so far. The 650 Interceptor did it and now just bought the classic 350 and this one's the same. Any insight into this from you would be great. Thanks.
sorry no issues in that area. only real issue to date is a sticky speedo which is being replaced. your issue may be related to wheel balance -thats something you could ask them
apart from that what do you think of it?
@@ridewithwarro Absolute gem of a bike mate. It's impossible not to like it. I'm pretty fussy with bikes having owned over 50 and this one has nothing you can complain about. I'll have the RE dealer look into the wheel balance for me like you mentioned, Thank-you. Can't wait to run it in and open it up! 👍
@@nikitis13 in that order too...run it in then open it up...lol
all the best!
great video Warro, what speed in top gear is the bike running at at 3,000 revs please??
i think 70 kph
thanks Warro.@@ridewithwarro
Hi Warro, still waiting fore my bike butt when i gett it i must start the running in, this is my first running in since i have only gotten second hand Biks/cars . the thing is you are sying you dont ride hills ? only flatt i cant do that i have hills every ware i cant get home if i dont do hills only do short trips to avoide heat of engine ? and hope enfield vill get an optional rpm meter to putt in sted of the tripper !
well its not a case of totally avoiding hills if you must just take it easy and use lower gears to do the climbing -not try and pull them in top gear.
let the gearbox do the work rather than the motor
Perfect, marvellous explanation and advice.
Glad it was helpful!
Do you drop and change the oil yourself at home ?
i do
Good advice Warro!
Appreciate it! i think its pretty well on target. ive been very careful on the run-in on the blue so can say it worked well and i followed over with this green.
i was out again today and did a 15 kl trip only
i was a bit hard on running some 500's in-that's why 6 of them bit the dust
if you dont show enfields some running in respect.....get ready for issues/trouble!
Hi there, is there any problem with the warranty if the owner is carrying out a basic service themselves while the bike is still covered?
id say no if nothing goes wrong and possible issues if something does happen.
i dont really care as i can rip them apart myself or a fair bit of them but i'd advise if close to the dealer -let them do it.
im a 500 klm run so that ruins that. besides i bet even if i put it in simething would not be done right and i'd have another 500 kl return visit.
after all a previous new bike arrived at my premises and the fork springs were in the wrong way. now how did that get past the inspecion when the front forks were locked in place...lol
Thanks for the video. So if I’m unable to ignore the break lever, are there other options to deal with it? Does any one make a longer one?
i think they have options on better levers but i have had no issues with the stock so never worried about getting anything better.
How long would the bike normally be cool enough before riding again?
on a new motor and around time riding i think pull over and let it cool for 10 minutes and then carry on. that should be good enough and dont ride slow in the higher gears
cheers Warro, much appreciated. @@ridewithwarro
Beautiful bike, will look more beautiful with bar end mirrors
I think so too!
Hi Warro, have you found a period tachometer for this bike?
have not really looked but i suppose there would be one around some-where. at the moment i'd be more interested in a dummy amp gauge the right diameter to house in the area
Merci ,pour ces conseils et partage d'expérience 👍✌️🇨🇵
thanks and glad to hear you enjoyed it
The manual says you can go up to 43 mph in 5th gear. I have been going to fifth but no faster 40. Could that harm my engine?
just use mainly the first 4 gears and stay away from steep hills. ive also have the new hunter and done 180 kl on it and in good open flat country i ride it 70 kph in 5th and sometimes hit 80 kph or 50 mph.
the important factor in the run in. don't ride it hard and give it quite a few rests for a cool down on engine temp.
if riding and bike smells hot..pull over for 5 minutes ...let it cool.
Warro, I only just thought of a question.
I have a identical C350 H/Grey to yours and I put an 'after market muffler' on it and the engine 'pops' when I up change through the gear box. WHAT would be cause of this Please?? (too rich, too lean, needs more/less 'packing' in the baffle/muffler???? /Solution.)
PLEASE Help.
THANK YOU Warro.
I APPRECIATE you help and wisdom and knowledge.
i would pop that muffler in the bin and accept what you have in stock form as a pretty good bike...lol popping and surging usually follows and so does burnt out valves.
plus i did burn out the inlet valve on two new c5's with only 700 klm on the clock with sports exhaust riding them hard. main reason being one gets up it more to hear the note.
i did a sound check with sports exhaust but its pulled now.
if you must continue you must play it safe and thats with the help of a powertronic fuelx to add more gas to the mix.
at the moment that may help you. when i tried it the bike ran better with sports exhaust fitted but no better with stock exhaust
that may be an option for you if you really want to go sports but while thinking about your move i'd pull the sports and add it again once your running a fueler of some type.
once the easy way out was a booster plug but i dont think they make them for the newer 021 plus models
@@ridewithwarro
THANK YOU Warro, I will do that.
I will biff the 'sports muffler' and reinstall the original.
I do not want to get involved with any electronic fuel mapping. - Beyond my scope !!
The original muffler did sound Very Good anyway. And about the same weight too which I found very surprising.
THANK YOU SO VERY VERY MUCH.
I do APPRECIATE the time and effort in you replying to me.
Hav a gd 1 sir.
@@tpv59 all good there and i think thats the safest bet there.
@@ridewithwarro
THANK YOU Warro.
Just swapped it (muffler) over and the ORIGINAL IS better. NO popping or backfiring or anything.
Runs like a dream.
Lesson Learnt!!!
Thanks again.
@@tpv59 yeah sometimes stock is actual best and trouble free too. ive found when i've started mods trouble is brewing...lol
Imagine the scale distance if you will, that the ant on the speedo @ 2:11 traveled if it were able to hold on for dear life.🤣😂🤣
yeah i saw that ant in the clip when i did the edit. i bet its the furtherest it had travelled in its entire life in say just over 15 minutes...lol
that being subject to staying on the ride...
Meny thanks for the advice
No problem 👍
Thanks Warro. I've been running in my Meteor according to the instructions in the manual, which isn't so much different from your method, apart from your initial shorter heat cycles. Cheers
Glad I could help. i did 15 kl on the green today in 10c temp and the bike came in hot so thats why ionly run short hits around town.
i expect that to change when i hit 200/300 klm mark
Thanks!
No problem!
Wow... That means 20 runs of 10-15km's before you have done the 1st run in cycle. That is going to take me weeks... Not eaven talking about the 200-500km mark...
Holy moly...
and the first 200km at below 60km/h...that means it lumbers like a (rather slow) moped...
That is going to take me weeks to get there... 😯
try this run the bike 15 klm and take it home. give it 2 or 3 hours and repeat. you'll know when you have overdone it. once you get off bike will smell hot or burnt.
thats why its important to do it properly. do it wrong and damage ocurrs -nothing will fix it apart from a rebuild.
if you ride them hard and suddenly experience a cough or miss-you can bet you have damaged the motor and it will be down on power.
stay away from sports muffler or any other crap. just run it in stock and do it properly and the reward in return will be worth it.
run it in hard and quick -get ready to sell or repair it
Hi Warro,
I will pick my new Classic 350 in Two weeks,
My concern is that I pick up the new bike in Cairns and have to ride Home to Cooktown FNQ,
It's a distance of 325 km on the new highway,
No choice have ride home, the bike will only have about 10km on the clock, I'm retired so time not an issue,
What procedure on return to Cooktown,
28-30 degree days,
And advice I should take ,
hard call there as i usually trailer or transport them home. saying that and you said you have plenty of time so use it!
i'd run the first 25 klm around the town using the gears then give it a good 10 minute rest.
i'd then head off on the trip home and run it along between 60 and 80 kph using 4 and 5 gear to vaary engine revs.
after you have clock 200 klm then i think you could run it along at 90 at times but stay away from higher speeds.....i think that is very important.
depending on terrain you'll get a good idea how far you can travel and how long to rest it.
om hills go back to lower gears like 3rd and let it run up not working it hard.
i'd say if that was me i'd be looking at a good 10 rest stops and heres why.
out of 15 new classics and 13 were the 500 two i got them from the dealer and did a slow easy 50 klm break in then ran them fast like 100 kph.
both bikes shit themselves in 700 klm and one burnt out a valve.
this new j motor is far better than the old uce 500 or 350 jobs.
you may get better advice from some-one reading this but i've only had 20 new enfields and thats how i'd do it.
plus once home i'd drop that oil and put in new stuff too.
500 motors were that dirty i'd do oil change at 50klm/200/500 and a 1000. clean motors are healthy motors.
do the right thing by the classic 350 reborn and you'll be very pleased you bought it. the new j motor i think is enfields best single
@@ridewithwarro thank you very much for your advice and time ,
I will now do the ride home over two days and change oil at 150km, and follow your advice very carefully,
Thanks again for your time and valuable advice, I really enjoy your utube channel 👍
@@DarrylWain well change oil when you get it bacvk home. i did that with mine -ran it 300 klm and dropped the oil. it was clean but again mostly around town running so i left the filter in and just changed the oil.
2 days sdounds good. just ride it slow and dont labour it in the gears and do regular stop and rests for 10 minutesor you'll notice the bike will smell hot.
most do to start with but dont ride hard and cook it
@@ridewithwarro okay 👍, I will take it very easy over 2 days with plenty of stops for the bike to cool down, I'll change the oil after I get " Miss Daisy" home.
I'm looking forward to riding the new Classic well into my 70's,
Thanks again Warro
Love your work 👍