You are my hero for posting this! I've always wanted to have my own armor but I know that worbla is expensive, and if I used cardboard it would look awful. I saw the pellets on pinterest and tried making a sailor scout crown, and that took me a few hours since I had to keep reheating it with boiling water. It came out meh but I think now with this tutorial it will be more pleasant and easier to work with in a sheet form. I was also concerned with the thickness of it since I would most likely wear this around in my summer conventions (maybe all year if it comes out amazing). But since I can control it and read some comments saying it was lightweight I am SO PUMPED TO TRY THIS OUT!
+JustObsessing Good question, I am unsure what difference it would make. It depends on how their formulas differ for their products. I ise Polly Plastics because of the working time and how well it sticks and molds into itself seamlessly compared to other brands. :)
I will test it in some days I think, maybe doing it for Bucky's arm for my girlfriend ^^ Oooor for some little things on her Kylo Ren cosplay :B Thank you very much, really !
+Mary Orla Awesome! I would love to see and hear how it goes! There is an email in the description that you can send pictures to and I would love to see what you make. Or tag me on instagram Cosplay_Apprentice. I am also open to any feedback as to improvements I can make to the formula :)
I'm not sure you clearly understood the question concerning emitting gases. The question wasn't if we could consume the plastic but when heating the poly plastic in the oven, does it give off hazardous fumes like burning pvc can? The concern is contaminating the oven where food is cooked. I'm very encouraged by your resourcefulness.
+Luke Cisneros No it does not give off harmful fumes when heated like PVC can. I heated it in my oven and we baked dinner in the same oven that night :)
Omg thank you worbla is super expensive so this is saving my neck on a big cosplay project im working on it has a bunch of small pieces so this is perfect
If anyone is using moldable I suggest setting your oven to 250 and cook for 10 minutes also I found it easier to work with this in smaller amounts if you're adding details to a larger piece
That's a good idea :) I was wondering if that would be an issue when I made it, but surprisingly I haven't had any problems with that with any of the pieces I have made, that are now a few years old. :)
Thanks for this! I'm sure it's been asked but not with the wording, and am pretty sure the answer is yes, but here goes: can it stretch like worbla does, for let's say a beast plate cup (like Kamui Cosplay does it)?
+Nikko Industries If you are using Polly Plastics then you should be fine to use the same oven you cook in. Polly Plastics is odorless and non toxic. I have used the same oven we cook in to do this and haven't had any problems. :) If you are nervous though you can always just get a toaster oven from a thrift store for cheap and use that :)
Hi thank you for this video , it will be my first making poly armor . i will be making this for soldier 76 mask . i have until march next year to get it right . again thank you for the video .
Well I tried making it , I don't think it turned out right because I used polly pellets from jo ann fabrics , guess it's not the right stuff , I also used AP flour .
The Polly Plastics pellets I link to in the description of this video are the ones I recommend, their formula seems to allow the pellets to get a bit stickier and more pliable than some of the other brands I have used :)
Cosplay Apprentice, thank you so much, this is really helpful. But, I would like to ask you about the last part . You mean, that you just painted the worbla and it changed shap itself or did you use a hitgun?
Polly Plastics is non-toxic and flour is non-toxic so I figured it would be ok and I did it in my kitchen oven at home but I don't know for sure if it would cause any issues. If you are worried about it you might be able to find a toaster oven at a thrift store and use that instead. :)
Hey, I've got a bit of a question - as I'm planning to do a wolf headdress for cosplay I'd like to know if 'polyarmor' can hold up a lot of faux fur without bending, cracking, breaking, losing the shape?
+lvrk Unfortunately, I haven't worked with faux fur before. I would image it would work. It would depend on the thickness you roll it out to. You'd probably want to make it a bit thicker than normal.
Awful delay but hope you can answer it as fast as possible! I am planning on 2 cosplays that I think that I will mix this material within, which will be my first 2 cosplays being handmade! I need to know if it has the traits of Worbla? Is a heat gun needed for this and if it sticks to Eva foam? P.S- thank you for making this video! I have just discovered Worbla and it is awfully expensive so you saved my day! :)
Yay! I'm glad the video could help you! :). It does have many of the same qualities as Worbla except it has a smoother finish so it doesn't take as much finish work. It sticks to itself better than worbla sticks to itself. It is not as grainy as Worbla so it doesn't hold it's structure quite as well as Worbla, so instead of heating up the piece then placing it on, I set it in place and then heat it up to make it easier :) Hope that was a fast enough response for you :) Have you thought about just using EVA foam instead of worbla for your armor?
@@CosplayApprentice thank you for the fast answer and the advice! I just need to have a leather-ish finish in some of the parts that will be professional but in second thought the method of the aluminium paper can work in some parts of it. I saved the video on my computer in case I will need it to future plans! Thank you again!
Hi! I just discovered your worbla recipe and I have a few questions. I'm from Spain and, due to high temperatures, Worbla tends to melt if left in a car under the sun (ok, it may not have been the greatest idea lately). I was wondering if this material will have the same problem, if its melting point is similar to worbla or lower. Not that I'm planning to repeat the experience, but accidents happen.
If it reaches super high temperatures like 150degreee Farenheit or so, it can soften and deform. The only time I’ve had a problem was a sword backsheath I made and that I painted black was sittting in the back of someone’s car in direct sunlight through the back window in the middle of the summer on an almost 100 degree day and because it was a thinner piece too it deformed and slumped. Other than that, I haven’t had a problem, even with other props that weren’t black in the same situation survived :). Hope that helps
Thank you for making the video! How many oz do you think one would need to cover an arm? (I'm a beginner) I wanted to try the Winter Soldier's arm, but I'm not sure how much I'd need. If you're not sure, that's fine. Sorry for the odd question.
+Katie that's a great question! Sweet! A winter soldier am well be super cool! I want to see pictures when it's done! :) Si to answer the question, it depends on the length of your arm and how thick you want to roll it out to, but I would say a cup and a half maybe 2 at the very max. So between 8-16oz But I think it will take less than that. Start with just making batches of 4oz at a time, it's easier to work with that way to and then go from there :) I hope that helps! Good luck! :)
I tried making this and I found it very hard to cut. I rolled it out pretty thin (about half the thickness of regular craft foam) so I'm wondering if it has something to do with the ratio I used or something. I used Instamorph and regular white cooking flour with the same ratio you used, 1:1, so I'm wondering if maybe because it's a different plastic maybe it has to do with that and maybe because of that I need to use a different ratio. What do you think? Or, from your experience is that just how it is when it comes to cutting? I've never used actual worbla before so I have nothing to compare it to. I tried cutting it with both scissors and a box cutter and both had to go over the same area a few times before it cut all the way through. I also waited until it was cool before I started cutting.
Thank you so much for reaching out. I have a question for you that will help me to better offer advice on it. :) Did you roll it out with a rolling pin or with a pasta maker? I think it could be a couple of the things you mentioned. Instamorph doesnt soften as much as polly plastics does and isnt quite as sticky as polly plastics so I think adjusting your ratio slightly to where you do less flour than you would with polly plastics could help. The beauty of making it yourself is that you can determine how thick/sturdy you want it to be. You can get it thinner/more consistent thickness by using a pasta maker but I used a rolling pin for a while before moving up to a pasta maker. That being said, if you are going thin like worbla scissors should be able to cut it but generally my go to is a pair of tin snips, that way it can handle a larger range of thicknesses :) hopefully that helps! :)
Cosplay Apprentice thank you that's a big help. I wasn't expecting to get a reply so quickly so it's much appreciated! I used a rolling pin to make mine and I did find that it was a bit difficult to combine both parts so I think I'll also maybe heat it for a bit longer. (I also took it out half way through to try and kneed some of it together so this time I'll also leave it in for the whole time) I already had the instamorph so that's why I chose to use it, just wanted to see if I could save some money by making it myself at home. Luckily I don't have to make too much of this stuff as I'm only using it for the finger and hand parts of a Edward Elric automail arm.
Happy to help! Glad I could answer quickly! Sounds like a really cool project can't wait to hear how it turns out! :) Let me know if you have any other questions as you go along! Always happy to help answer :)
+mjmalaske Great Question! The PCL plastic in its native form, is too sticky and too stretchy to be able to use in some instances, especially when it comes to coating or trying to use in thin sheets. If you roll out the plastic into a thin sheet on its own if you heat it up, it will be impossible to pick it up while it's hot and lay it over something, like when making a mask for example or coating a piece of foam. The plastic will stick to the surface it is on and if it does when you pick it up it will just start to stretch like cheese on a pizza, just from gravity. The filler allows the plastic to bond to something else that isn't as viscous as the plastic when heated, so it allows it to retain its flexibility but also maintain a certain level of rigidity when heated. So then that leads into the other part of your question. The more filler you can add to it the better it will hold itself together when heated. But one of the advantages to the plastic as well is that it sticks really well to itself when hot so that you don't have to use glue, so you can't put too much filler in it or it will no longer be sticky to itself, but you also can't do too little of filler or it will be too sticky and stretchy when heated. So the problem with the 1 part filler to 4 parts PCL in this case is that it is not enough filler to hold itself together and when heated the plastic will still be too sticky and stretchy. With the 1:1 ratio using Polly PLASTICS it gives you the perfect amount of stickiness that the plastic will still adhere well to itself, but not as much on metal or glass or stone surfaces. And it also has enough filler to make it so that you can heat up a thin sheet of it and pick up the entire sheet without it falling apart or oozing :) Hopefully that answered your question, let me know if you have any more :)
+Cosplay Apprentice I was wondering the same thing as I just made my own, and I thought it was too flour-y. Unfortunately I still had some pellets stick to the metal baking tray too (good thing I bought a separate tray for making this). Thanks for the info though, gonna try experimenting some more over the next couple of weeks.
+xToastyToaster Yeah, it can seem a little floury at first, and there will likely be some flour left on the tray, as well as some plastic pieces. I have found that in order to get the flour mixed in the best I pull the plastic and stretch it out, then fold it back on itself and then stretch it out and fold it back on itself and repeat the process until late it doesn't seem as floury. :) As for any plastic stuck to the pan, once it cools you should be able to pick it off of the pan fairly easy. :) Let me know if you have any more questions moving forward :)
Seeing as this combination has an organic component, how do the final projects fair longevity wise? Do they decompose after awhile or do they hold up fairly well?
+Linksliltri4ce That's great question! I have some pieces both raw and painted that I made back in August and they have no sign of any degradation or decomposition. They look as pristine as the day I made them. Those are the oldest pieces I have so past that I am not sure but they are holding up great so far :)
You can use talc or baby power instead of organics components but cornstarch is pretty neutral and will not rot as the flour may do, in plasturgie we call it a ''charge'' (in french sorry) wich means a neutral powder that won't mess up with the mechanical properties and won't react chemically :) feel free to try marble powder as well (very fine grinded one for a smooth surface) that will make your homemade worbla à little bit more sturdy, then you can play with ratio, instead of 1:1 you can try 3 part charge for 4 part pellets (experimenting it is the best way to find out what you need). You can even color it by adding mica's powder in it (from 2 to 5% but once again do your try) or grinded chalk, charcoal, rust,.....
They are all just as smooth as they were the day I made them and have not developed any rot or decrease in flex either :) it is holding up phenominaly :)
Great video! I have some questions :) How heavy is this material? I'm making a head-covering bird mask, and I'm worried that the beak will constantly be tipping my head forward. Can I use this plastic to coat a different material, like if I make a rough mask out of craft foam and use this plastic over it to give it a hard, smooth texture? Also, is this plastic easy to carve or sculpt? How's the porosity (will it get really hot inside a mask) What about durability - I'm planning to use a hinged jaw to be able to move the lower beak, and I'm concerned about wear and tear after clacking the beak shut one too many times. Also, do you have a tumblr so I can @ you when I post pictures?
+bug lover Thanks! I am on Instagram @Cosplay-Apprentice. To answer your questions. The material is super lightweight. The beauty of making it is that you can choose the thickness that you roll it out to which will adjust the weight, flexibility and stiffness. So it allows you to make it the right consistency for your needs. You can do both, you can probably make the beak just out of the plastic or you can make it out of craft foam first and then coat it in the plastic. Depending on the color you paint it, if you paint it black and plan on having it outside in direct sunlight for extended periods of time then I would recommend doing foam and the plastic coating, but if it is a lighter color and or you only plan on really using is in cooler temp situations then you can easily do it plastic only. It is very durable your biggest concern woild most likely be paint rubbing off in any high moving areas, that being said if that is a concern you can add Polly Plastics color pellets to the mixture when you make it and dye it the color you want before you even shape it and you won't have to worry about paint rubbing off :) Hope that helps! I'm excites to see pictures :)
I have another question :) In your experience (opinion?), if I add black dye pellets to the melting process, would it be necessary to apply additional colour to the final product such as with paint? Or would the dye be enough to colour the plastic? Oh! Also, to attach additional objects such as fur or feathers after the mask is carved, would it be enough to reheat the plastic slightly and press the materials on? Thanks again!
+bug lover It would just be a mattet of adding enough black pellets to get it to the black color that you want I would think :) adding feathers it would probably be enough to heat the surface and stick them to it but just to be safe you could even wrap a thin layer of the plastic around the feather stem and heat that and the surface of of the shaped plastic and it should stick just fine :)
Thanks so much!! You've been super helpful :D I did some calculations when comparing different brands of similar material if this helps anyone BY OUNCE: Magic Sculpt $1.09/oz, Epoxy Sculpt $1.50/oz, Apoxie Sculpt $0.53/oz, Polly Plastics $1.06/oz (ask me for links) However, Polly plastics is cheapest BECAUSE flour is $0.025/oz, so 50% polly plastics and 50% flour together would be cheaper than 100% Apoxie Sculpt. Polly plastics go up to around 70 cents an oz when the cost of dye pellets is added (using the all BLACK dye package). However I will be using Polly plastics with this Polyarmor recipe because it can be reshaped with a heat gun, and Apoxie Sculpt cures in 24 hours meaning it is no longer adjustable! For reference, I plan on using this material to craft claws and to coat a craft foam mask for my kenku costume. :)
I am new at this and my question is probably silly but would I be able to make a leather-looking corset and vambraces out of this like I would be able to do with the Worbla? Or does this only make like smooth metal-looking pieces?
+Haruna Yori You can roll it out with a rolling pin. That is how I started doing it, it is just harder to get an even thickness so that is why I started using the pasta maker :)
+AlphaProto They are made similarly, but there are differences. Hot glue doesn't cool as hard and also gets lot stickier and messier when heated. I wouldn't recommend it, hot can burn you pretty bad when it is hot.
Hello I'm trying to make a moon knight mask how can i connect it together with super glue is it going to be okay? also can i sand and put some paint in ? Thank you
+Jacob Dowdle The reason I use Polly Plastics brand over other PCL brands like Instamorph, Friendly Plastics, Plastimske, etc. Is that it is at a great price point but also the plastic becomes more maleable than some of the other brands which allows me to meld pieces together seamlessly. Also it seems to have a longer working time, it also gets a bit stickier when it is heated than some of the others (some consider that a con, but for my uses it is an advantage because I have no need to glue anything and once again more seamless connection to itself) For making worbla I choose it over the other because the above qualities allows it to take on a higher ratio of filler and still be able to stick itself well compared to others. That gives it a more worbla like consistency but still able to adhere to itself well without glue. I hope that answered your question! Thanks for watching! :)
Once it's reached a warm dough-like moldable consistency how long does it take to cure after it's molded to the object that it's supposed to add the finish to? And if there is an area that's cured that I'd like to fix or mesh together better so no seam is visible ot anything will this particular mix react well with a heat gun to reheat it?
It works great with a heatgun and that is what I would recommend using for it! :) It blends really well into itself. :). As for cute time it is more a matter of cooling rather than curing, so it depends on how thick the piece is, but you can accelerate it by putting it in the freezer or running it under cold water. Usually if it is pretty thin it is just a matter of minutes to cool. :)
@@CosplayApprentice Alright. I'm sure you've answered this exact question so many times. 😂 I just didn't want to scroll through hundreds of comments. Thank you for your response. This will be a much cheaper and really just perfect finish for my pepakura 332nd battalion Clone Trooper helmet.
+Marc Bridie I haven't scientifically measured any kind of gases it emits, the plastic is non toxic and virtually odorless when heated, I feel it is safe enough that I used my oven that we make food in as well. But if you are nervous you could buy a toaster oven at a thrift store to use just in case :)
PCL is FDA appproved for cooking. It's also an ingredient commonly used as medicine carrier. So you can eat it, I just wouldn't recommend consuming vast amounts... ;-)
Do you have a link by chamce for the poly plastics pellets? I seem to find everything and then some, i dont want to get the wrong product. I would greatly appreciate any tips or links (this video is awesomesauce!!)
Sure thing, here you go pollyplastics.com/collections/moldable-plastic?aff=2 I would recommend the 35oz tub. It is the best bang for the buck and goes really far :)
+cause the rat You definitely can use wood powder. I don't think you will get as smooth of a surface as with the flour but that is definitely an option :)
+veelee11 Yes, it sticks to itself very well. I would say it sticks better than worbla, definitely better than black worbla and it has an even smoother surface than any kind of worbla! :)
I've used your method before and found that it dries way too quickly before I can mold it to the shape I need. Any suggestions? I'm super new at worbla/poly armor anything so anything would help :) thanks
+Marissa Jensen Cool, it's possible that friendly plastics may react differently than polly plastics. I know that just in its base form polly plastics has a longer working time than instamorph, and so it may be partially similar to that, but you should still be able to work it just fine. In PolyArmor form I would try laying it over the object you are trying mold it around and heat it with a heat gun in place, that should allow you a bit more working time and just try and do it in small sections if you arent able to heat the whole thing evenly before other parts cool. Hopefully that helps, let me know :)
+Yurie._.datboi Datboi It will but you will need to play with the ratio a bit. I chose Polly Plastics because it has more stick than some of the other types and so I don't know what other brands will do but it will definitley work :)
+Adelphe of House Badior definitely can be heated around a body form. Depending on what yours is made of though, you may want to put some scrap cloth over where you are shaping or something to keep it from sticking to your form. It will stick to plastic pretty well.:)
More than a 1:1 ratio makes it lose it's stickiness and or is not able to accept any more flour than that. :) The cost of Polly Plastics and baking flour for the amount of PolyArmor you can make vs the cost of the same amount of worbla is significantly less expensive. It is a fraction of the cost to make PolyArmor than to purchase worbla and PolyArmor has less finishing time because it is ready to paint perfectly smooth right with out any bondo or coating. The only limitation is the size of sheets that you can make but I am working on a way to increase the sheet size you can make :)
Cosplay Apprentice that's pretty amazing! Perharps I'm concerned of the size as you've said it's limited, about how many grams of polyplastic will it need to make at most A4 sized PolyArmor? Looking forward for your next update anyway!
+Jeff Darden You can try it but when the plastic gets really sticky it may just stick to the wax paper and you'll end up with a bunch of wax paper stuck to it. If you do it on a metal cookie sheet. Once the plastic cools it will pop right off the metal :)
I haven't used polly plastic like this before (that's changing tomorrow.) But I have used it a lot for other projects (mostly homemade molds and dragon art) Anyway in my experience. Use Parchment paper. It doesn't stick to anything. I have tried a lot of things from epoxy glues to liquid polymer and it always popped off. I hope that helps.
im confused about him much this actually makes, because the measurements are literally just have the same ratio of two ingredients---how much worbla does say, a cup of each make? this recipe is a total life saver though!!
+Truculent Quackery Great question, if I am remembering correctly out of a 1/4 cup of each with my 7" pasta maker I get a sheet that is about 6"× 18"-20" . I think thats about right, its been a bit since I estimated the measurements :)
+Truculent Quackery No problem, happy to help! Yeah, it also depends on how thick or thin you roll it out to but you can make a pretty great amount out of it. The only limitation is the width of the rollers on the pasta makers but I am working on an idea that might fix that!! :)
Cosplay Apprentice thanks a lot! I'm trying to do my first cosplay for comic con this year and Worbla is more expensive than what I paid for two days of ccxp18. You saved me!
Yeah, Worbla is EXPENSIVE! I'm so glad you found this video! :) Let me know if you have any questions as you get into the process :) And please share photos with me of how it goes! Good Luck! :)
+SakuraShinobuYui That's a good question, you can check on their site, I have a link in the description. There are also some similar products available in Europe if it doesn't ship there. :)
@@CosplayApprentice thanks so much! I'm trying the microwave method 1st because I'm in Texas and heating up the house will get me nothing but a mutiny.
Ok I used a pasta machine and made it pretty thin. I was able to use an older pair of cloth scissors. Worry not they were mine and I had a nice new pair for just cloth. Microwaving raw flour did make the house stink like burnt popcorn though so...
@@CosplayApprentice burnt popcorn smell is better than a hot house! It did work! For the most part? It was a bit brittle and the edges cracked when I was rolling it, I had let it cool too much. The scissors were fiskars razor edge microtip easy action and they worked like a dream if the polyarmor is almost paper thin. I then placed it on craft foam and used an ancient hair dryer to heat up everything and set it in place! This video has saved me HUNDREDS of dollars and dude that's so amazing thank you!
+Selene Prince IKR, I keep asking myself the same question :/ I have all of the footage recorded and I am working on editing it all together, creating templates and even working on a packet of all you need to know to cosplay wonder woman with a brief history famous lines, iconic poses etc. We recently sold our house and we are on the in between right now trying to find a house so I have been moving like molasses in my editing :(
If your rolling pin is wood then coat the rolling pin in a little bit of vegetable oil first then it works . If it is metal or stone just sprinkle a little water on the surface first and it works. If your rolling pin is plastic. I would not recommend trying it with a plastic rolling pin.
+Bret Lemieux They are working on getting into some stores, but right now it is just available online. There is a link in the description to where you can get it.
Because I said it was great to do so in the Worblapie video? ;-) He did make a more proffesional presentation of it and I don't mind as long as someone pays it forward. :-) Fame, Fortune and Facebook likes isn't everything.
+DLShadowwolf You Rock man!! I'm working on a way now as well to figure out how to make it possible to modify a pasta maker to be able to roll out even larger sheets closer to the size of worbla sheets :) I would love to bounce some ideas off of you when you have a moment :)
Oh, well, straight from the horses mouth. I'm actually all for re-purposing and re-using old ideas to expand upon and advance. I make a lot of my models for free, and hope people make their own modifications and use it to make cool stuff. I just think that it's common courtesy to give credit where credit is due, and acknowledge where you got the idea/info. Some people care, some people, like you DLShadowwolf, don't, which is fine too. It's just that you don't know, unless the person tells you, whether it matters to that person, so it's generally a good idea to give credit to be safe and nice. Regardless, you don't care, so I certainly won't try to speak for you. Cheers guys!
+Caleb Voisine-Addis You're totally right! I probably should have given more credit to him, I added a credit in the description :) Thanks for voicing your opinion :)
+Tilly Tintoes I totally agree with you that one can't just claim an idea that is not theirs, or steal someone else's idea that has been copyrighted, trademarked, or patented. I am a law abiding citizen and I firmly believe in that. That being said, whether you chose to believe me or not, I have been working with PCL plastic for well over a year now and have tried several different ideas to be able to roll it into a sheet and have it hold its shape when heated. I tried backing it with cheesecloth, I tried backing it with fabric. Come to find out that was the same idea behind wonderflex. I was not completely satisfied with those results. In that process I was hearing a bunch of people talking about Worbla. So I watched a bunch of review videos about worbla and some build videos about worbla and with my experience in working with PCL I recognized it as the base of worbla and it was very easy to then recognize the filler they used as sawdust based on the color and how rough it was. So, everyone was liking worbla so much, except for the ridiculous finishing time and the fact it wasn't smooth and the fact that it cost so much. So I set out to make something better than worbla. So the first and obvious conclusion to the question "How can I make it smoother" was to have a finer/smoother filler than sawdust. Next question was "what is a household inexpensive item that is finely milled that could make a good filler." Answer: Flour, Cornstarch, Baking Soda, Baking Powder. Lots of options. Baking soda is probably too reactive, baking powder doesn't come in very large quantities generally speakin. Then, Cornstarch or Flour? Flour is probably more common let's start there. Next question what should my ratios be?" Let's look online and see if we can find out what ratio worbla uses themselves. I find their patent, it doesn't make any sense to me because it is in legalese, let's see if it is mentioned anywhere else, I find a couple other sources but not much to go off of. Finally I find a video made by ObsessiveCreationsDisorder, he explains the patent which reveals I was right about them using sawdust. He also suggest you could try using flour, but his 4 parts PCL to 1 part filler ratio he gave was for using the sawdust and from my experience already extruding PCL into sheets I knew that 1 part filler would make no difference in the plastic being able to hold its shape and would not have the characteristics of worbla that you would want. At the end of his video he said this is all basic just to give you an idea, feel free to run with it, improve on it, claim it as your own, spread the word around so that everyone can know about it! :) So I did exactly what he asked people to do and since my quest was not just to figure out how to make worbla but to make something better than worbla I started experimenting with quantities and ratios and using the pasta maker to extrude the plastic like I had done with straight PCL previously to make it as thin and even as worbla. I found the best plastic to use that would allow you to achieve the highest quantity of filler possible to get the qualities that people like in worbla but to avoid the downsides of worbla. Once I achieved what I thought was the best combination then I released a video on it and rebranded it because it is not just making worbla, it is making something that is better than worbla so I named it PolyArmor, a more fitting name for its use in Cosplay anyway. Then I tried to spread the word. :) Thank you for watching my video and make sure to check out some of my other videos on how to modify the pasta maker so that you can use it to extrude plastic. Also I am working on a way to be able to make it so that you can extrude even bigger sheets to be closers to worbla sized sheets. :) please let me know if you have any more questions :) Thanks!
You saved my life!! Worbla is pretty expensive and every tutorial of D.Va's props was using it!! Thank you! xoxo
+Pau Lipstick Awesome!!! So glad I could help!! :) Let me know of you have any questions when you go to make it! :)
I tested polyarmor making in microwave. 2.5 minutes max tends to do the trick.
+NoctisCaelum1 Thanks! That is great feedback to know :)
Cosplay Apprentice Happy to help 😄
You are my hero for posting this! I've always wanted to have my own armor but I know that worbla is expensive, and if I used cardboard it would look awful. I saw the pellets on pinterest and tried making a sailor scout crown, and that took me a few hours since I had to keep reheating it with boiling water. It came out meh but I think now with this tutorial it will be more pleasant and easier to work with in a sheet form. I was also concerned with the thickness of it since I would most likely wear this around in my summer conventions (maybe all year if it comes out amazing). But since I can control it and read some comments saying it was lightweight I am SO PUMPED TO TRY THIS OUT!
+JustObsessing AWESOME!! Im so glad I could help!! Let me know if you have any questions as you do it!! :)
I do have one before I even attempt this, if I use Moldamer plastic pellets will it make much of a difference compared to the Pollyplastics?
+JustObsessing Good question, I am unsure what difference it would make. It depends on how their formulas differ for their products. I ise Polly Plastics because of the working time and how well it sticks and molds into itself seamlessly compared to other brands. :)
OH THANK GOD ! Worbla is soooooo expensive here in France ... You've made my day !
+Mary Orla I'm so glad I could help!! Spread the word so others can know about it too!!
+Mary Orla I'm so glad I could help!! Spread the word so others can know about it too!!
I will test it in some days I think, maybe doing it for Bucky's arm for my girlfriend ^^ Oooor for some little things on her Kylo Ren cosplay :B Thank you very much, really !
+Mary Orla Awesome! I would love to see and hear how it goes! There is an email in the description that you can send pictures to and I would love to see what you make. Or tag me on instagram Cosplay_Apprentice. I am also open to any feedback as to improvements I can make to the formula :)
No problem, if I can do it I'll tag you, it's your trick !
I'll tell you, for sure :D
I'm not sure you clearly understood the question concerning emitting gases. The question wasn't if we could consume the plastic but when heating the poly plastic in the oven, does it give off hazardous fumes like burning pvc can? The concern is contaminating the oven where food is cooked. I'm very encouraged by your resourcefulness.
+Luke Cisneros No it does not give off harmful fumes when heated like PVC can. I heated it in my oven and we baked dinner in the same oven that night :)
Omg thank you worbla is super expensive so this is saving my neck on a big cosplay project im working on it has a bunch of small pieces so this is perfect
Awesome!!!! So glad I could help! :)
If anyone is using moldable I suggest setting your oven to 250 and cook for 10 minutes also I found it easier to work with this in smaller amounts if you're adding details to a larger piece
quick! use youtube's video editing enhancement tool to trim the double take from the intro!
It's not a cosplay video without a box cutter scissors of a razor pen
Thanks so much for showing the steps. I'm going to try this out very soon.
+Kristin Brenemen Awesome!! Let me know how it goes!!
+Kristin Brenemen Awesome!! Let me know how it goes!!
Cooking flour .... could be positive to use some Mineral powder... in order to avoid biodegradation or bad smells ?
That's a good idea :) I was wondering if that would be an issue when I made it, but surprisingly I haven't had any problems with that with any of the pieces I have made, that are now a few years old. :)
Thanks for this! I'm sure it's been asked but not with the wording, and am pretty sure the answer is yes, but here goes: can it stretch like worbla does, for let's say a beast plate cup (like Kamui Cosplay does it)?
Woohhaaa
im from srilanka n i hv no idea where to buy this. U make my day.
Keep up good work
+Shereen Sulaiman Thanks! Happy to help!:)
is it safe to use your oven that's used for food? or should i get a separate toaster oven for this?
+Nikko Industries If you are using Polly Plastics then you should be fine to use the same oven you cook in. Polly Plastics is odorless and non toxic. I have used the same oven we cook in to do this and haven't had any problems. :) If you are nervous though you can always just get a toaster oven from a thrift store for cheap and use that :)
Hi thank you for this video , it will be my first making poly armor . i will be making this for soldier 76 mask . i have until march next year to get it right . again thank you for the video .
Sounds awesome!! Can't wait to see how it turns out! Let me know if you have questions as you go :)
Well I tried making it , I don't think it turned out right because I used polly pellets from jo ann fabrics , guess it's not the right stuff , I also used AP flour .
The Polly Plastics pellets I link to in the description of this video are the ones I recommend, their formula seems to allow the pellets to get a bit stickier and more pliable than some of the other brands I have used :)
Can you use a heat gun to heat it up so you can mold it or do you have to stick is back it the oven to heat it up? Love the video!
You can definitely use a heat gun :)
Cosplay Apprentice, thank you so much, this is really helpful. But, I would like to ask you about the last part . You mean, that you just painted the worbla and it changed shap itself or did you use a hitgun?
You have to heat it to shape it.
Is this safe to back in your regular oven? I just want to make sure I don't have to worry about any toxins. Thanks!
Polly Plastics is non-toxic and flour is non-toxic so I figured it would be ok and I did it in my kitchen oven at home but I don't know for sure if it would cause any issues. If you are worried about it you might be able to find a toaster oven at a thrift store and use that instead. :)
Cosplay Apprentice well I figured the flour is not toxic lol thanks for the info I will definitely give this a try
@@Nonyabiz_25 Hahahhaha :) Yeah, I guess that one was a given :) Let me know how it goes! :)
Cosplay Apprentice definitely
Hey, I've got a bit of a question - as I'm planning to do a wolf headdress for cosplay I'd like to know if 'polyarmor' can hold up a lot of faux fur without bending, cracking, breaking, losing the shape?
+lvrk Unfortunately, I haven't worked with faux fur before. I would image it would work. It would depend on the thickness you roll it out to. You'd probably want to make it a bit thicker than normal.
Awful delay but hope you can answer it as fast as possible!
I am planning on 2 cosplays that I think that I will mix this material within, which will be my first 2 cosplays being handmade!
I need to know if it has the traits of Worbla? Is a heat gun needed for this and if it sticks to Eva foam?
P.S- thank you for making this video! I have just discovered Worbla and it is awfully expensive so you saved my day! :)
Yay! I'm glad the video could help you! :). It does have many of the same qualities as Worbla except it has a smoother finish so it doesn't take as much finish work. It sticks to itself better than worbla sticks to itself. It is not as grainy as Worbla so it doesn't hold it's structure quite as well as Worbla, so instead of heating up the piece then placing it on, I set it in place and then heat it up to make it easier :) Hope that was a fast enough response for you :)
Have you thought about just using EVA foam instead of worbla for your armor?
@@CosplayApprentice thank you for the fast answer and the advice! I just need to have a leather-ish finish in some of the parts that will be professional but in second thought the method of the aluminium paper can work in some parts of it.
I saved the video on my computer in case I will need it to future plans! Thank you again!
Happy to help :) let me know if you have any more questions and please share what cool stuff you make! :)
Hi! I just discovered your worbla recipe and I have a few questions. I'm from Spain and, due to high temperatures, Worbla tends to melt if left in a car under the sun (ok, it may not have been the greatest idea lately). I was wondering if this material will have the same problem, if its melting point is similar to worbla or lower. Not that I'm planning to repeat the experience, but accidents happen.
It does have a similar softening/melting point as Worbla. :)
@@CosplayApprentice Thanks! We'll try to be more careful this time xD
is it thermoplastic?
bendable ? reusable? when heated
It is a thermoplastic, it is bendable, and moldable when heated, and is reusable :)
@@CosplayApprentice thank you 👍👍👍
How well does it do on hot days? I just saw this video and would like to know if there are some issues with it deforming during hot days.
If it reaches super high temperatures like 150degreee Farenheit or so, it can soften and deform. The only time I’ve had a problem was a sword backsheath I made and that I painted black was sittting in the back of someone’s car in direct sunlight through the back window in the middle of the summer on an almost 100 degree day and because it was a thinner piece too it deformed and slumped. Other than that, I haven’t had a problem, even with other props that weren’t black in the same situation survived :). Hope that helps
Thank you for making the video! How many oz do you think one would need to cover an arm? (I'm a beginner) I wanted to try the Winter Soldier's arm, but I'm not sure how much I'd need. If you're not sure, that's fine. Sorry for the odd question.
+Katie that's a great question! Sweet! A winter soldier am well be super cool! I want to see pictures when it's done! :) Si to answer the question, it depends on the length of your arm and how thick you want to roll it out to, but I would say a cup and a half maybe 2 at the very max. So between 8-16oz But I think it will take less than that. Start with just making batches of 4oz at a time, it's easier to work with that way to and then go from there :) I hope that helps! Good luck! :)
Thank you so much!!! This was immensely helpful! I really appreciate the assistance :)
+Katie Awesome!! I'm glad it helped! Always happy to help! :)
I tried making this and I found it very hard to cut. I rolled it out pretty thin (about half the thickness of regular craft foam) so I'm wondering if it has something to do with the ratio I used or something. I used Instamorph and regular white cooking flour with the same ratio you used, 1:1, so I'm wondering if maybe because it's a different plastic maybe it has to do with that and maybe because of that I need to use a different ratio. What do you think? Or, from your experience is that just how it is when it comes to cutting? I've never used actual worbla before so I have nothing to compare it to. I tried cutting it with both scissors and a box cutter and both had to go over the same area a few times before it cut all the way through. I also waited until it was cool before I started cutting.
Thank you so much for reaching out. I have a question for you that will help me to better offer advice on it. :)
Did you roll it out with a rolling pin or with a pasta maker?
I think it could be a couple of the things you mentioned. Instamorph doesnt soften as much as polly plastics does and isnt quite as sticky as polly plastics so I think adjusting your ratio slightly to where you do less flour than you would with polly plastics could help. The beauty of making it yourself is that you can determine how thick/sturdy you want it to be. You can get it thinner/more consistent thickness by using a pasta maker but I used a rolling pin for a while before moving up to a pasta maker. That being said, if you are going thin like worbla scissors should be able to cut it but generally my go to is a pair of tin snips, that way it can handle a larger range of thicknesses :) hopefully that helps! :)
Cosplay Apprentice thank you that's a big help. I wasn't expecting to get a reply so quickly so it's much appreciated!
I used a rolling pin to make mine and I did find that it was a bit difficult to combine both parts so I think I'll also maybe heat it for a bit longer. (I also took it out half way through to try and kneed some of it together so this time I'll also leave it in for the whole time) I already had the instamorph so that's why I chose to use it, just wanted to see if I could save some money by making it myself at home. Luckily I don't have to make too much of this stuff as I'm only using it for the finger and hand parts of a Edward Elric automail arm.
Happy to help! Glad I could answer quickly! Sounds like a really cool project can't wait to hear how it turns out! :) Let me know if you have any other questions as you go along! Always happy to help answer :)
What is the purpose of the filler and what is the benefit of your 1:1 recipe over the 1:4 recipe?
+mjmalaske Great Question!
The PCL plastic in its native form, is too sticky and too stretchy to be able to use in some instances, especially when it comes to coating or trying to use in thin sheets. If you roll out the plastic into a thin sheet on its own if you heat it up, it will be impossible to pick it up while it's hot and lay it over something, like when making a mask for example or coating a piece of foam. The plastic will stick to the surface it is on and if it does when you pick it up it will just start to stretch like cheese on a pizza, just from gravity. The filler allows the plastic to bond to something else that isn't as viscous as the plastic when heated, so it allows it to retain its flexibility but also maintain a certain level of rigidity when heated.
So then that leads into the other part of your question. The more filler you can add to it the better it will hold itself together when heated. But one of the advantages to the plastic as well is that it sticks really well to itself when hot so that you don't have to use glue, so you can't put too much filler in it or it will no longer be sticky to itself, but you also can't do too little of filler or it will be too sticky and stretchy when heated. So the problem with the 1 part filler to 4 parts PCL in this case is that it is not enough filler to hold itself together and when heated the plastic will still be too sticky and stretchy. With the 1:1 ratio using Polly PLASTICS it gives you the perfect amount of stickiness that the plastic will still adhere well to itself, but not as much on metal or glass or stone surfaces. And it also has enough filler to make it so that you can heat up a thin sheet of it and pick up the entire sheet without it falling apart or oozing :)
Hopefully that answered your question, let me know if you have any more :)
+Cosplay Apprentice I was wondering the same thing as I just made my own, and I thought it was too flour-y. Unfortunately I still had some pellets stick to the metal baking tray too (good thing I bought a separate tray for making this).
Thanks for the info though, gonna try experimenting some more over the next couple of weeks.
+xToastyToaster Yeah, it can seem a little floury at first, and there will likely be some flour left on the tray, as well as some plastic pieces.
I have found that in order to get the flour mixed in the best I pull the plastic and stretch it out, then fold it back on itself and then stretch it out and fold it back on itself and repeat the process until late it doesn't seem as floury. :)
As for any plastic stuck to the pan, once it cools you should be able to pick it off of the pan fairly easy. :)
Let me know if you have any more questions moving forward :)
Cosplay Apprentice i was moved by your explaination.
thanks so much for that I'll definitely try this :D
+Isaku's cosplay Happy to help! :)
I’m gonna try this for small accessories I feel like worbla is only good for giant pieces because it’s so expensive I’d rather just use it for armor.
Sounds great! Yeah, it will work great for that!! :)
All of my thermoplastic isn't in bead form anymore
Can i melt it and mix the materials
Yep, you can still melt it down and do the same thing, it is just easier to melt from bead form :)
Can I use the thermoplastic beads for this? Will this smell bad like melting plastic?
Love your project. I made similar with Woodprix instructions.
+Duca Schoenberg Nice!!!
Thx
Thanks Duca!
Seeing as this combination has an organic component, how do the final projects fair longevity wise? Do they decompose after awhile or do they hold up fairly well?
+Linksliltri4ce That's great question! I have some pieces both raw and painted that I made back in August and they have no sign of any degradation or decomposition. They look as pristine as the day I made them. Those are the oldest pieces I have so past that I am not sure but they are holding up great so far :)
You can use talc or baby power instead of organics components but cornstarch is pretty neutral and will not rot as the flour may do, in plasturgie we call it a ''charge'' (in french sorry) wich means a neutral powder that won't mess up with the mechanical properties and won't react chemically :) feel free to try marble powder as well (very fine grinded one for a smooth surface) that will make your homemade worbla à little bit more sturdy, then you can play with ratio, instead of 1:1 you can try 3 part charge for 4 part pellets (experimenting it is the best way to find out what you need).
You can even color it by adding mica's powder in it (from 2 to 5% but once again do your try) or grinded chalk, charcoal, rust,.....
@@CosplayApprentice can we get an update? How are those pieces holding up? Any rot or cracking/crumble?
They are all just as smooth as they were the day I made them and have not developed any rot or decrease in flex either :) it is holding up phenominaly :)
Great video! I have some questions :) How heavy is this material? I'm making a head-covering bird mask, and I'm worried that the beak will constantly be tipping my head forward. Can I use this plastic to coat a different material, like if I make a rough mask out of craft foam and use this plastic over it to give it a hard, smooth texture? Also, is this plastic easy to carve or sculpt? How's the porosity (will it get really hot inside a mask) What about durability - I'm planning to use a hinged jaw to be able to move the lower beak, and I'm concerned about wear and tear after clacking the beak shut one too many times. Also, do you have a tumblr so I can @ you when I post pictures?
+bug lover Thanks! I am on Instagram @Cosplay-Apprentice. To answer your questions. The material is super lightweight. The beauty of making it is that you can choose the thickness that you roll it out to which will adjust the weight, flexibility and stiffness. So it allows you to make it the right consistency for your needs. You can do both, you can probably make the beak just out of the plastic or you can make it out of craft foam first and then coat it in the plastic. Depending on the color you paint it, if you paint it black and plan on having it outside in direct sunlight for extended periods of time then I would recommend doing foam and the plastic coating, but if it is a lighter color and or you only plan on really using is in cooler temp situations then you can easily do it plastic only. It is very durable your biggest concern woild most likely be paint rubbing off in any high moving areas, that being said if that is a concern you can add Polly Plastics color pellets to the mixture when you make it and dye it the color you want before you even shape it and you won't have to worry about paint rubbing off :) Hope that helps! I'm excites to see pictures :)
Thanks so much! I'll remember to send you some pictures when it's done. :)
I have another question :) In your experience (opinion?), if I add black dye pellets to the melting process, would it be necessary to apply additional colour to the final product such as with paint? Or would the dye be enough to colour the plastic? Oh! Also, to attach additional objects such as fur or feathers after the mask is carved, would it be enough to reheat the plastic slightly and press the materials on? Thanks again!
+bug lover It would just be a mattet of adding enough black pellets to get it to the black color that you want I would think :) adding feathers it would probably be enough to heat the surface and stick them to it but just to be safe you could even wrap a thin layer of the plastic around the feather stem and heat that and the surface of of the shaped plastic and it should stick just fine :)
Thanks so much!! You've been super helpful :D I did some calculations when comparing different brands of similar material if this helps anyone
BY OUNCE: Magic Sculpt $1.09/oz, Epoxy Sculpt $1.50/oz, Apoxie Sculpt $0.53/oz, Polly Plastics $1.06/oz (ask me for links)
However, Polly plastics is cheapest BECAUSE flour is $0.025/oz, so 50% polly plastics and 50% flour together would be cheaper than 100% Apoxie Sculpt. Polly plastics go up to around 70 cents an oz when the cost of dye pellets is added (using the all BLACK dye package).
However I will be using Polly plastics with this Polyarmor recipe because it can be reshaped with a heat gun, and Apoxie Sculpt cures in 24 hours meaning it is no longer adjustable!
For reference, I plan on using this material to craft claws and to coat a craft foam mask for my kenku costume. :)
I am new at this and my question is probably silly but would I be able to make a leather-looking corset and vambraces out of this like I would be able to do with the Worbla? Or does this only make like smooth metal-looking pieces?
amazing ! can I make it flat with a rolling pin ?
+Haruna Yori You can roll it out with a rolling pin. That is how I started doing it, it is just harder to get an even thickness so that is why I started using the pasta maker :)
Cosplay Apprentice ok thank you !
+Haruna Yori Happy to help! :)
I’m allergic to flour - would gluten free flour work as well?
That is pretty neat.
+AlphaProto Thanks!!
+AlphaProto Thanks!!
Are thermal plastics made from the same thing as hot glue sticks? If so then this could be done with chopped up hot glue sticks and flour.
+AlphaProto They are made similarly, but there are differences. Hot glue doesn't cool as hard and also gets lot stickier and messier when heated. I wouldn't recommend it, hot can burn you pretty bad when it is hot.
Hello I'm trying to make a moon knight mask how can i connect it together with super glue is it going to be okay? also can i sand and put some paint in ?
Thank you
Looks like you should be able to mold trimmings of this material into a new sheet. Or press into a mold.
+hanelyp1 yep definitely! No wasted material!!
what are the pros and cons vs normal polly?
love the Chanel
+Jacob Dowdle The reason I use Polly Plastics brand over other PCL brands like Instamorph, Friendly Plastics, Plastimske, etc. Is that it is at a great price point but also the plastic becomes more maleable than some of the other brands which allows me to meld pieces together seamlessly. Also it seems to have a longer working time, it also gets a bit stickier when it is heated than some of the others (some consider that a con, but for my uses it is an advantage because I have no need to glue anything and once again more seamless connection to itself) For making worbla I choose it over the other because the above qualities allows it to take on a higher ratio of filler and still be able to stick itself well compared to others. That gives it a more worbla like consistency but still able to adhere to itself well without glue. I hope that answered your question! Thanks for watching! :)
Once it's reached a warm dough-like moldable consistency how long does it take to cure after it's molded to the object that it's supposed to add the finish to? And if there is an area that's cured that I'd like to fix or mesh together better so no seam is visible ot anything will this particular mix react well with a heat gun to reheat it?
It works great with a heatgun and that is what I would recommend using for it! :) It blends really well into itself. :). As for cute time it is more a matter of cooling rather than curing, so it depends on how thick the piece is, but you can accelerate it by putting it in the freezer or running it under cold water. Usually if it is pretty thin it is just a matter of minutes to cool. :)
@@CosplayApprentice Alright. I'm sure you've answered this exact question so many times. 😂 I just didn't want to scroll through hundreds of comments. Thank you for your response. This will be a much cheaper and really just perfect finish for my pepakura 332nd battalion Clone Trooper helmet.
Sweet! Happy to help any time :)
Wow, thanks!
Is this safe enough to put in your oven that you would make other food in that you eat? You aren't worried about the gases it emits?
+Marc Bridie I haven't scientifically measured any kind of gases it emits, the plastic is non toxic and virtually odorless when heated, I feel it is safe enough that I used my oven that we make food in as well. But if you are nervous you could buy a toaster oven at a thrift store to use just in case :)
PCL is FDA appproved for cooking. It's also an ingredient commonly used as medicine carrier. So you can eat it, I just wouldn't recommend consuming vast amounts... ;-)
+DLShadowwolf Haha :) Exactly, I'm not sure where PCL fits in on the food pyramid ;)
Awesome!
How much is the Polyplastics?
Why wheat flour?
Why not a less temperamental gluten agent?
I’m sure there are other things that would work, this is just what I experimented with that worked. :)
Do you have a link by chamce for the poly plastics pellets? I seem to find everything and then some, i dont want to get the wrong product. I would greatly appreciate any tips or links (this video is awesomesauce!!)
Sure thing, here you go pollyplastics.com/collections/moldable-plastic?aff=2
I would recommend the 35oz tub. It is the best bang for the buck and goes really far :)
Cosplay Apprentice thank you so much f0r the super fast responce! Wohoot
Of course!! :) I do what I can! Let me know how it goes! :)
I'm sure it's been asked, but does poly-pellets work? Also, does it bond to itself
+Erik Emme Is Polly Pellets a different brand?
+Erik Emme With Polly Plastics that I used in the video, it bonds very well to itself! :)
Instead of using flour can I make this with wood powder?
+cause the rat You definitely can use wood powder. I don't think you will get as smooth of a surface as with the flour but that is definitely an option :)
Thanks for the quick response. The wood powder I have access to is finer than commercial flour. But I'll try both to compare the results.
+cause the rat Sweet! Let me know how that goes! :)
I got a question if I'm gonna make some armor with this stuff what can I use as a skeleton to build up on ?
will it stick to another piece just like worbla does when using a heatgun?
+veelee11 Yes, it sticks to itself very well. I would say it sticks better than worbla, definitely better than black worbla and it has an even smoother surface than any kind of worbla! :)
thanks for replying...im new to all things worbla.. nice video
+veelee11 No problem, happy to help! :)
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i needed some for my cosplay. ( Im on my twins sis account)
Thank you so much
+CCWiz 67 of course!! Happy to help, let me know of you have any questions! :)
+CCWiz 67 of course!! Happy to help, let me know of you have any questions! :)
I've used your method before and found that it dries way too quickly before I can mold it to the shape I need. Any suggestions? I'm super new at worbla/poly armor anything so anything would help :) thanks
+Marissa Jensen It cools too quick in PolyArmor form or as you try to make PolyArmor? Also what moldable plastic brand are you using? :)
In polyarmor form, like when I get it out of the oven. The brand I used was Friendly Plastic plastic modeling pellets
+Marissa Jensen Cool, it's possible that friendly plastics may react differently than polly plastics. I know that just in its base form polly plastics has a longer working time than instamorph, and so it may be partially similar to that, but you should still be able to work it just fine. In PolyArmor form I would try laying it over the object you are trying mold it around and heat it with a heat gun in place, that should allow you a bit more working time and just try and do it in small sections if you arent able to heat the whole thing evenly before other parts cool. Hopefully that helps, let me know :)
Awesome thank you! I'll have to try that
Is it dangerous or unhealthy to bake something in rhis cook after the worbla making ?
where did you find polly plastic at?
Does this require a heat gun to mold like Worbla does?
+mikaela cash (Da Mito Cosplayer) Yes, a heat gun is definitely recommended. :)
Pas mal du tout !
+Trixie E115 merci :)
Will this work with other brands of plastic pellets?
+Yurie._.datboi Datboi It will but you will need to play with the ratio a bit. I chose Polly Plastics because it has more stick than some of the other types and so I don't know what other brands will do but it will definitley work :)
Cosplay Apprentice will ok thank you 😁😁
+Yurie._.datboi Datboi No problem, happy to help :)
is this able to be re heated around body forms or do you have to directly mould it to the desired shape?
also what is the average heat where the PolyArmor becomes mouldable? I'm Australian and it gets pretty hot here so?
+Adelphe of House Badior definitely can be heated around a body form. Depending on what yours is made of though, you may want to put some scrap cloth over where you are shaping or something to keep it from sticking to your form. It will stick to plastic pretty well.:)
+Adelphe of House Badior between 140 and 150 Fahrenheit is its softening temp
Would it be more practical if it's a 3:1 ratio of Flour and Polyplastics? The Poly thingy kinda seems expensive, eh?
More than a 1:1 ratio makes it lose it's stickiness and or is not able to accept any more flour than that. :) The cost of Polly Plastics and baking flour for the amount of PolyArmor you can make vs the cost of the same amount of worbla is significantly less expensive. It is a fraction of the cost to make PolyArmor than to purchase worbla and PolyArmor has less finishing time because it is ready to paint perfectly smooth right with out any bondo or coating. The only limitation is the size of sheets that you can make but I am working on a way to increase the sheet size you can make :)
Cosplay Apprentice that's pretty amazing! Perharps I'm concerned of the size as you've said it's limited, about how many grams of polyplastic will it need to make at most A4 sized PolyArmor? Looking forward for your next update anyway!
+Rvn Grsp I dont know about grams but I would say that you could make an A4 size with less than 1/4 cup of polly plastics which is about 2oz or so.
where can i find the polly plastic moldeable plastic?
+Dana Parraga there is a link in the description :)
Would other thermoplastic pellets work?
They will but it may be a different ratio due to the different makeup of that particular brand. So it may take a little playing around with :)
Can you bake it on wax paper for easier removal?
+Jeff Darden You can try it but when the plastic gets really sticky it may just stick to the wax paper and you'll end up with a bunch of wax paper stuck to it. If you do it on a metal cookie sheet. Once the plastic cools it will pop right off the metal :)
Cool, thanks for the response.
+Jeff Darden No probs! :) Happy to help!! 😁
I haven't used polly plastic like this before (that's changing tomorrow.) But I have used it a lot for other projects (mostly homemade molds and dragon art) Anyway in my experience. Use Parchment paper. It doesn't stick to anything. I have tried a lot of things from epoxy glues to liquid polymer and it always popped off. I hope that helps.
+Bree Zee Thanks! :)
do a video showing how to use it
+jake hall I will :) Thanks for the idea!
+jake hall I will :) Thanks for the idea!
im confused about him much this actually makes, because the measurements are literally just have the same ratio of two ingredients---how much worbla does say, a cup of each make? this recipe is a total life saver though!!
+Truculent Quackery Great question, if I am remembering correctly out of a 1/4 cup of each with my 7" pasta maker I get a sheet that is about 6"× 18"-20" . I think thats about right, its been a bit since I estimated the measurements :)
Thank you for replying so quickly, wow that's quite a lot!! >80
+Truculent Quackery No problem, happy to help! Yeah, it also depends on how thick or thin you roll it out to but you can make a pretty great amount out of it. The only limitation is the width of the rollers on the pasta makers but I am working on an idea that might fix that!! :)
Can I do this eith Friendly Plastic? It's the only one I can find in Brazil.
Yes you can , you may need to play with the ratios a little bit but it should work :)
Cosplay Apprentice thanks a lot! I'm trying to do my first cosplay for comic con this year and Worbla is more expensive than what I paid for two days of ccxp18. You saved me!
Yeah, Worbla is EXPENSIVE! I'm so glad you found this video! :) Let me know if you have any questions as you get into the process :) And please share photos with me of how it goes! Good Luck! :)
does it ship to the Netherlands though..
+SakuraShinobuYui That's a good question, you can check on their site, I have a link in the description. There are also some similar products available in Europe if it doesn't ship there. :)
Could i also use this for a prop?
Yes, definitely! I used it for the Wonder woman Tiara in one of my videos and also Han Solo Blaster and Kylo Ren Lightsaber :)
DLShadowwolf came up with this first
Can you please make Anduril from LOTR?
+That Guy Oooh, good idea, that would be sweet!!!!
Thanks
Can you use the microwave?
+Sarah Cormiea you can probably use a microwave to heat it up I haven't done it but I am sure it would work :)
Cool, thanks!
Is it remoldable after it sets? And how strong is it?
Yes! You can reheat and reshape as many times as you want :)
Its pretty strong the thicker you roll it out the stronger and stiffer it is.
Cosplay Apprentice thanks I’m really interested in it
Happy to help, let me know if you have any more questions about it :)
Я одна догадалась до этого сама 😂
На видео случайно наткнулась
What was used to cut this?
I think I used Tin Snips
@@CosplayApprentice thanks so much! I'm trying the microwave method 1st because I'm in Texas and heating up the house will get me nothing but a mutiny.
Ok I used a pasta machine and made it pretty thin. I was able to use an older pair of cloth scissors. Worry not they were mine and I had a nice new pair for just cloth. Microwaving raw flour did make the house stink like burnt popcorn though so...
Nice! So did it work then?! :). Sorry about the burnt popcorn smell 😂
@@CosplayApprentice burnt popcorn smell is better than a hot house! It did work! For the most part? It was a bit brittle and the edges cracked when I was rolling it, I had let it cool too much. The scissors were fiskars razor edge microtip easy action and they worked like a dream if the polyarmor is almost paper thin. I then placed it on craft foam and used an ancient hair dryer to heat up everything and set it in place! This video has saved me HUNDREDS of dollars and dude that's so amazing thank you!
can I use bb bullets
cooking flour or flower
+Virat singh No, it has to be PCL thermoplastic.
+Virat singh Baking Flour
Is the Wonder Woman Project ever going to happen?.....
+Selene Prince IKR, I keep asking myself the same question :/ I have all of the footage recorded and I am working on editing it all together, creating templates and even working on a packet of all you need to know to cosplay wonder woman with a brief history famous lines, iconic poses etc. We recently sold our house and we are on the in between right now trying to find a house so I have been moving like molasses in my editing :(
OOh, i can't wait!, and its understandable, no worries, ^_^
Does not roll easily with a rolling pin. Very sticky and sticky to everything. Suggesting a rolling is no bueno, and does not work.
If your rolling pin is wood then coat the rolling pin in a little bit of vegetable oil first then it works . If it is metal or stone just sprinkle a little water on the surface first and it works. If your rolling pin is plastic. I would not recommend trying it with a plastic rolling pin.
Any one know a store that sells polly plastic?
+Bret Lemieux They are working on getting into some stores, but right now it is just available online. There is a link in the description to where you can get it.
Cosplay Apprentice
My phone is not that great kinda tough to order stuff like that damn
+Bret Lemieux It would probably be easiest to do on a computer :)
Any credit to dlshadowwolf? And you're basically making worblapie, so I don't know why you're stealing and re-'branding' it.
Because I said it was great to do so in the Worblapie video? ;-) He did make a more proffesional presentation of it and I don't mind as long as someone pays it forward. :-) Fame, Fortune and Facebook likes isn't everything.
+DLShadowwolf You Rock man!! I'm working on a way now as well to figure out how to make it possible to modify a pasta maker to be able to roll out even larger sheets closer to the size of worbla sheets :) I would love to bounce some ideas off of you when you have a moment :)
Oh, well, straight from the horses mouth. I'm actually all for re-purposing and re-using old ideas to expand upon and advance. I make a lot of my models for free, and hope people make their own modifications and use it to make cool stuff. I just think that it's common courtesy to give credit where credit is due, and acknowledge where you got the idea/info. Some people care, some people, like you DLShadowwolf, don't, which is fine too. It's just that you don't know, unless the person tells you, whether it matters to that person, so it's generally a good idea to give credit to be safe and nice. Regardless, you don't care, so I certainly won't try to speak for you. Cheers guys!
Oop. Also I just re-watched the video and saw that you said people can claim it as their own. So, ignore me.
+Caleb Voisine-Addis You're totally right! I probably should have given more credit to him, I added a credit in the description :) Thanks for voicing your opinion :)
this is just worblapie... you can't just claim you came up with the idea when it's been around for ages..
+Tilly Tintoes I totally agree with you that one can't just claim an idea that is not theirs, or steal someone else's idea that has been copyrighted, trademarked, or patented. I am a law abiding citizen and I firmly believe in that.
That being said, whether you chose to believe me or not, I have been working with PCL plastic for well over a year now and have tried several different ideas to be able to roll it into a sheet and have it hold its shape when heated. I tried backing it with cheesecloth, I tried backing it with fabric. Come to find out that was the same idea behind wonderflex. I was not completely satisfied with those results. In that process I was hearing a bunch of people talking about Worbla. So I watched a bunch of review videos about worbla and some build videos about worbla and with my experience in working with PCL I recognized it as the base of worbla and it was very easy to then recognize the filler they used as sawdust based on the color and how rough it was. So, everyone was liking worbla so much, except for the ridiculous finishing time and the fact it wasn't smooth and the fact that it cost so much. So I set out to make something better than worbla. So the first and obvious conclusion to the question "How can I make it smoother" was to have a finer/smoother filler than sawdust. Next question was "what is a household inexpensive item that is finely milled that could make a good filler." Answer: Flour, Cornstarch, Baking Soda, Baking Powder. Lots of options. Baking soda is probably too reactive, baking powder doesn't come in very large quantities generally speakin. Then, Cornstarch or Flour? Flour is probably more common let's start there. Next question what should my ratios be?" Let's look online and see if we can find out what ratio worbla uses themselves. I find their patent, it doesn't make any sense to me because it is in legalese, let's see if it is mentioned anywhere else, I find a couple other sources but not much to go off of. Finally I find a video made by ObsessiveCreationsDisorder, he explains the patent which reveals I was right about them using sawdust. He also suggest you could try using flour, but his 4 parts PCL to 1 part filler ratio he gave was for using the sawdust and from my experience already extruding PCL into sheets I knew that 1 part filler would make no difference in the plastic being able to hold its shape and would not have the characteristics of worbla that you would want. At the end of his video he said this is all basic just to give you an idea, feel free to run with it, improve on it, claim it as your own, spread the word around so that everyone can know about it! :) So I did exactly what he asked people to do and since my quest was not just to figure out how to make worbla but to make something better than worbla I started experimenting with quantities and ratios and using the pasta maker to extrude the plastic like I had done with straight PCL previously to make it as thin and even as worbla. I found the best plastic to use that would allow you to achieve the highest quantity of filler possible to get the qualities that people like in worbla but to avoid the downsides of worbla. Once I achieved what I thought was the best combination then I released a video on it and rebranded it because it is not just making worbla, it is making something that is better than worbla so I named it PolyArmor, a more fitting name for its use in Cosplay anyway. Then I tried to spread the word. :) Thank you for watching my video and make sure to check out some of my other videos on how to modify the pasta maker so that you can use it to extrude plastic. Also I am working on a way to be able to make it so that you can extrude even bigger sheets to be closers to worbla sized sheets. :) please let me know if you have any more questions :) Thanks!
copyright automatically exists on anything you create...
thankyou for the reponse :)
Cosplay Apprentice wow.
+Rvn Grsp Thanks!
FRIST!
+The Liv Project You rock!!!
+The Liv Project You rock!!!
you gonna credit the dude who came up with this first or just keep pretending it's your idea?