I always have a couple of sticks of low melt solder. So I don't struggle getting components off the board. Especially if they are larger components. Make life a lot easier.
There is an easier way to get the back covers off with no tools needed. All you need to do is push the trigger in then wedge your middle and ring finger in the gap created by the depressed trigger then pull the cover away from the controller. I’ve done this hundreds of times and never broke a clip and it only takes about 3 seconds to do this.
Hi Graham, I usually change out these analog sticks with low melt solder. I find it much easier to remove. Use some flux and wet all the joints with low melt solder. With all the joint flowed with low melt, use your iron to give each joint some heat, and keep applying heat to alternating joints with your iron, longer heat on the anchor joints. At some point the joints will be all molten to remove the analog stick by hand. Just don't touch the metal part of the analog, it will be hot. Low melt solder will stay molten for longer. Use some wick to clean up. Install new analog and solder with flux. I enjoy your videos, please keep them coming. Thanks.
Thanks I have to try that - struggled to get one of the sticks with a plain soldering iron and the whole controller seems to be toast after heating the whole thing too much
The original ones do stick on the end of travel, but they never get that far in the controller. Also, I have fixed a couple of controllers and you can change the pot by bending it slightly so it detaches. Changing them is the way to go, cleaning is only a temporary fix, because of how they are constructed, metal on carbon track. Wears it out completely. However, check buttons LB and RB, those usually bend out of place, if you have a controller open already, it's worth checking them. Good video. 👍
Nice man. Recently all fixers I follow are from the UK for some reason 🤔. MyMateVince, the Cod3r, StezFix and you. I think you get this skill as soon as you're born haha. Keep it up mate 🙂.
When using the solder sucker, move the nozzle around in a circular motion on the board as you pull the trigger. It will move the component pin around in its hole and help the suction remove the solder.
One of the keys with solder wick is that the copper strands are very close together which creates capillary action. Spreading the wick is probably not doing you any favors. The Chemwik solder WITH ROSIN is the best I've used, and has very fine strands which the solder will just walk up by a few millimeters. YMMV!
What a wonderful video. Full of very helpful knowledge The part you said about lingering on the pin with your iron to let the solder seep in is probably one of the best tips i have heard. Thanks for the video.
That is the latest version of Xbox controller, introduced with the Series S and X consoles. It added a share button, changed the D-pad, has a USB-C port instead of micro, and there are a few other minor changes like the texture of the shoulder and trigger buttons. Officially it's just called "Xbox Wireless Controller" because they are backwards compatible with Xbox One consoles (and Xbox One controllers also work with Series consoles), and it also has Bluetooth so it will work with loads of other devices.
Yes, low melt "solder" is definitely irreplaceable. Everyone should have it. Makes desoldering so easy. Graham, you struggled way too much with the desoldering phase.
Yes, low melt "solder" is definitely irreplaceable. Everyone should have it. Makes desoldering so easy. Graham, you struggled way too much with the desoldering phase.
When using a heat gun to remove parts like in this video wearing ESD gloves really help, as you can hold onto the board much longer before you burn your fingers.
ive done a couple of stick replacements on these, those stick are well in there, tip is take off the potentiometers 1st bend them back then there is less pins to heat at once to get them out, other option is just replace the pentameter as usually its just one of those that the carbon has worn rather than the whole stick been drifty
I've used some techniques to desolder joysticks. From all of them, which reduces time and heat received on the board is by using low melt solder, specially with Chipquick sticks and its specially designed flux. When all solders are mixed with a tiny bit of low melt solder, with less than 200°C from a hot air gun, the whole stick block will fall by its own weight. And a little tip: when you desolder point by point with your pump desolder, and some point are holding some solder, before using directly hot air, add some flux. It will clear this tiny solder points as it helps to clear a joint.
When dealing with stubborn components that are also multi-legged and give me a hard time desoldering, what I do is use both the hot air gun AND the iron. Sometimes I'd get a friend to assist me if I need to, but lately I've been hanging the hot air gun by its cable from my illuminated magnifier, above the board I'm working on. While that's keeping the board nice and and hot, I'd also use the iron to wet all the pins and use my free hand to pull on the component from the other side, using pliers if need be. Once it's out, I leave the gun in place to still keep the board hot and come in with wick to unclog the holes. If they're too small, I use the solder pump from the underside.
It's easier to remove just the pots. You bend them away from the stick mechanism and they come off separately. That way you're only desoldering three points. It's a lot easier and i've been doing it this way for years!
Greetings from the Southern Tier, in Western N.Y. I have found that to use wick to the most efficient way is to, not spread the braid also flux the braid, not the component & the solder sucks into the braid much better.
I have a question, are all Joystick Axis modules universal? My Xbox one controller left stick is drifting bad, and I have an old broken 360 controller, can i take out the old 360 Joystick Axis and solder it to my xbox one controller ?
I tried fixing the stick drift on my 360 controllers and only had a soldering iron, i had so much trouble removing the original sticks I gave up. Watching your video brought back the frustrations i felt.
In my limited experience a cheap desolder iron with a spring loaded pump works far more effectively than these motorized ones. I recently fitted my DualSense controllers with hall effect sticks, and my no brand $10 desolder iron + low melt solder + a bit of flux made quick work of it.
A little disappointed that this video did not go over checking the calibration. These analogue potentiometers are not created equal and I have replaced sticks and continue to have a drift problem. The calibration at the factory accounts for this and is hard coded into the controller. With no way to adjust that calibration manually adjusting the twist on the potentiometer and soldering it into a position that applies the factory offset numbers to the new stick is really the only way to do it unfortunately.
There's an approach that others have pointed out in the comments - you can replace just the potentiometers (the turning bits on the side of the module) without replacing the entire module. These are three-pin, so it's possible to remove them with just an iron using what I call the "walk it out" technique, where you keep moving the iron between the three pins, keeping them all hot, and pull the component out in small steps. However, this requires practise, and fitting a new pot without clearing the holes will also be very difficult. So yea, this can be done with just an iron, but that won't make it much easier.
seeing you struggle.. you can side cutter most of the analog stick off leaving just the legs solderd. its much easier to remove 1 leg at a time bu just heating then cleaning the holes. unless you have a reason to not do that. its always gonna be less work on any thing similar.
Thanks, you've convinced me that i should just pay to have this done. This would be my first time soldering since i was 13 i think, I'm 34 now so yeah.. Best to try a beginner soldering project.
Spent hours doing this, did it as instructed and my stick drift is even worse now. Wish you would’ve just done a stick deadzone test so I would’ve known it needed calibrated
Everyone complaining about how quickly these fail. Microsoft do a really good no quibble return. Just get a Microsoft account, register the serial number of the controller, then if its under warranty follow the instructions. Takes about 10 days in the UK. You will get what looks like a brand new controller back, just in plain packaging. Save that packaging for the next time 😊
When removing the back grips pull in trigger and pull from the gap next to the trigger it seems brutal but works well i wouldnt recommend the modules you chose but if they work they work yes the sticking is normal i wouldnt sugest prying when removing the board support from one side and push gently on the analogue modules and it will pop out without bending of the board
So I have taken apart my own before, there is no need to de-solder anything. You can carefully take everything out without putting any real strain on the wires.
Left stick looks like it was still slightly off center and the right stick was definitely not centered after the repair. The tip on your desoldering pump may have been to big. I used a $20 heated solder sucker off Amazon on the same controller and it worked get first try.
Hello! Great video. How easy would it be to desolder a stick without desoldering gun? I only have a soldering iron and never desoldered anything like a gamepad stick, but unfortunately it started drifting and need replacement.
This video is so helpful. My left sick has drift definitely but my question is buying the analog replacements, soldering gun and desolder less expensive than just buying a new controller?
Don't use a heatgun to desolder this.. You can pull the two boards apart with your fingers. You can also pull the rails off with your fingers, no pry tool.11:54 and I'm taking deep breaths. I shoulda waited. You don't gotta add solder to remove solder, Flux is a preference but you can just heat it with the solder iron. Flux isn't overkill it's also designed to spread the heat and make the solder easier to work with. I will cry. 12:52 18:51 The joystick is smoking and it was protected by the board. 26:05 Solder. Wick.
put aftermarket thumbstick modules on my scuf xbox controllers. the ones i used they have treads on the top. so the thumbstick caps i need have to be treaded on. WHERE DO I FIND TREADED THUMBSTICK CAPS???????
Please DO NOT buy the sticks with the orange potentiometers. They're worse than the blue / teal color ones, and Alps (the ones that were originally inside the controller) are actually one of the best brands to buy. You did a pretty good job with this repair, but I think you replaced the joysticks with a worse model than what was originally inside :( If you'd like to continue the joystick repair business, do spend some times on Console repair forums, wikis, subreddits, and discord servers. I'm sure you'll find useful informations and friendly folks that will gladly answer your doubts!
i have an intermittent left bumper problem- sometimes a single press registers as multiple presses and sometimes does not register at all. any ideas from the comment section group? guess i just need to pull it apart to find out?
Low melt is definitely the way forward with something like this, yea. I need to get on that train. Definitely would've been easier if I could hot air straight away without needing to desolder first.
I just replaced a vertical potentiometer, and I have no more stick drift, but now left and right inputs cause a slight pull downward, but only during the input, and the downward pull is a constant rate. Any ideas?
Hi Graham, the Xbox controller is also being used in the Xbox series. I have another question, do you have link to the replacement parts? I’ve repaired mine with the original analog sticks. However the drift is back :(
Hello everybody! I would like to ask for help! I was changing the right analog stick on the xbox series s/x controller and I accidentally removed capacitor C25 (next to C21) and lost it. Could anyone tell me the value of the C25 so I can replace it?
Excellent video. There’s a channel called Northbridge Fix who gives an excellent way to desolder using low melt solder. Maybe you can get that and add it to your arsenal.
Hi just got this controller and, right trigger has a 3mm. dead zone, can it be fixed or just return the controller?, i tried updating firmware and it helped a bit, and now it's 2mm. Also I hear a weird noise in the Xbox button area (when controller is on), but only when I bring the controller really close to my ear, is that sound normal? I hope you respond soon!
i was excited to see a video on replacing drifting sticks but after watching what is involved ...i can see it is out of my skill range thanks for the video !
Based on other comments, a common easier method is to replace the potentiometers on the sides of the modules only... but that's still a decent amount of solder work IMHO. Still not a viable repair unless you've already got the equipment.
Not sure that this approach would work for XBox controllers, but I was able to fix my Switch Joycon drift by inserting a piece of thin cardboard, which surprisingly works amazingly.
Most of the joycon 'fixes' are just temporary solutions until you have to replace the sticks. There is a company that should have some hall effect replacements which I'm very tempted to try.
Xbox 정품 컨트롤러는 교체가 쉬웠지만 서드파티 컨트롤러(powerA, turtlebeach)는 실패했습니다. 무연납에 유연납 보강, 납땜 흡입기에도 일부 연결부는 제거할수없었읍니다. 아날로그 스틱 연결부분을 별도 납땜으로 고정하여 제거하기 어렵게 설계 되어 있고 납땜 제거가 잘 되지 않아 약간의 힘에도 PCB 패턴이 떨어져 나갔습니다. 아마도 부품 교체 보다는 다시 구매하도록 제작되었다는 생각입니다.
Well, after watching this i don't think I'll try it for myself, just maybe swap the decorative stuff my blue controller to a working black one. Then maybe see if a local repair shop will do it. I don't have any equipment nor a regular need for it so it would seem odd to spend more than twice the price of the controller to repair it and then never really use the stuff again, maybe a couple times.
I've snapped 2 of the legs off the potentiometer. They're stuck on the holes in the board. Anyone have any advice on getting them out. I've tried poking, heating, hot air. They're not coming
I wouldn't. if you're already in the controller you might as well replace the whole stick since that's what you paid for. only if the replacements you got aren't that good I would entertain doing that.
The way i do it with similar tools, i use hot air to melt the solder and then i go with desoldering gun and just hold suction until all is gone while i keep it melted with air. So much faster for me atleast 🙂
Use low melt solder, which will weaken the original solder, this works much better than using the method you illustrated. I have done both methods, and explicitly using low melt solder does much better based on my experience.
That's the dilemma. When I replaced the sticks on some Nintendo joy cons, that was a much easier job (no soldering) and joy cons are obnoxiously expensive. This job, no I don't think it was economically viable. I did it super cheap to find out. It'd probably be worth it on an Elite controller, or if you can get super fancy sticks.
I mean you could easily offer a service to get the sticks fitted with hall effect replacement sticks, then you could advertise "sticks will never drift again"
XS controllers have auto calibration. Xbox One controllers (without the share button) may require manual calibration. Source: I’ve spent too much time repairing Xbone and Series XS controllers (all mine).
You didn’t even test for joystick drift. All you did was install another joystick. Bet you the house that thing had significant drift in both joysticks after install. It’s not as easy as simply installing new joysticks. Wish it were
So I haven't watched your whole video yet. I just started it so maybe you're going to answer this in the video. But how much did you charge for this repair? Because I can buy a brand new Xbox controller the exact same one for $59.99 on the official Xbox website. And I mean personally I don't know if I would get this repaired. I would probably just buy new.
I always have a couple of sticks of low melt solder. So I don't struggle getting components off the board. Especially if they are larger components. Make life a lot easier.
There is an easier way to get the back covers off with no tools needed. All you need to do is push the trigger in then wedge your middle and ring finger in the gap created by the depressed trigger then pull the cover away from the controller. I’ve done this hundreds of times and never broke a clip and it only takes about 3 seconds to do this.
@@sohft You can use a screwdriver or other tool to pry it off
Wow, someone that actually knows what they are talking about 😂 it worked! No damage at ALL!
Bro what!!! This worked so well!!
You da man for life
I’ve broke it once from doing that method but does work pretty well especially if you don’t wanna scratch the plastic with the tools
Graham what a mad lad, soldering while being on the phone at the same time.
it's why he forgot the audio ;)
@@deelkar lol
...jack
Great video. 2:26 Best bit of advice, at times even the best break clips.
Hi Graham, I usually change out these analog sticks with low melt solder. I find it much easier to remove. Use some flux and wet all the joints with low melt solder. With all the joint flowed with low melt, use your iron to give each joint some heat, and keep applying heat to alternating joints with your iron, longer heat on the anchor joints. At some point the joints will be all molten to remove the analog stick by hand. Just don't touch the metal part of the analog, it will be hot. Low melt solder will stay molten for longer. Use some wick to clean up. Install new analog and solder with flux. I enjoy your videos, please keep them coming. Thanks.
I'm always havong issues removing them with low melt solder, there's always a bit of flux remaining that's holding it, how do you deal with that ?
Thanks I have to try that - struggled to get one of the sticks with a plain soldering iron and the whole controller seems to be toast after heating the whole thing too much
Never seen the inside of one of these Controllers, so from that standpoint this has been both informative and interesting! Thank you Graham!
The original ones do stick on the end of travel, but they never get that far in the controller. Also, I have fixed a couple of controllers and you can change the pot by bending it slightly so it detaches. Changing them is the way to go, cleaning is only a temporary fix, because of how they are constructed, metal on carbon track. Wears it out completely. However, check buttons LB and RB, those usually bend out of place, if you have a controller open already, it's worth checking them. Good video. 👍
Ive done many dozens of these controllers. They are a fiddly pain. A sense of achievement when all sorted though
Nice man. Recently all fixers I follow are from the UK for some reason 🤔. MyMateVince, the Cod3r, StezFix and you. I think you get this skill as soon as you're born haha. Keep it up mate 🙂.
When using the solder sucker, move the nozzle around in a circular motion on the board as you pull the trigger. It will move the component pin around in its hole and help the suction remove the solder.
One of the keys with solder wick is that the copper strands are very close together which creates capillary action. Spreading the wick is probably not doing you any favors. The Chemwik solder WITH ROSIN is the best I've used, and has very fine strands which the solder will just walk up by a few millimeters. YMMV!
What a wonderful video. Full of very helpful knowledge
The part you said about lingering on the pin with your iron to let the solder seep in is probably one of the best tips i have heard. Thanks for the video.
That is the latest version of Xbox controller, introduced with the Series S and X consoles. It added a share button, changed the D-pad, has a USB-C port instead of micro, and there are a few other minor changes like the texture of the shoulder and trigger buttons.
Officially it's just called "Xbox Wireless Controller" because they are backwards compatible with Xbox One consoles (and Xbox One controllers also work with Series consoles), and it also has Bluetooth so it will work with loads of other devices.
Yes, low melt "solder" is definitely irreplaceable. Everyone should have it. Makes desoldering so easy. Graham, you struggled way too much with the desoldering phase.
Yes, low melt "solder" is definitely irreplaceable. Everyone should have it. Makes desoldering so easy. Graham, you struggled way too much with the desoldering phase.
When using a heat gun to remove parts like in this video wearing ESD gloves really help, as you can hold onto the board much longer before you burn your fingers.
"When it's ready, it'll just let go, and if it's not just letting go, then it's not ready." Truer words were never spoken.
ive done a couple of stick replacements on these, those stick are well in there, tip is take off the potentiometers 1st bend them back then there is less pins to heat at once to get them out, other option is just replace the pentameter as usually its just one of those that the carbon has worn rather than the whole stick been drifty
I've used some techniques to desolder joysticks. From all of them, which reduces time and heat received on the board is by using low melt solder, specially with Chipquick sticks and its specially designed flux. When all solders are mixed with a tiny bit of low melt solder, with less than 200°C from a hot air gun, the whole stick block will fall by its own weight.
And a little tip: when you desolder point by point with your pump desolder, and some point are holding some solder, before using directly hot air, add some flux. It will clear this tiny solder points as it helps to clear a joint.
When dealing with stubborn components that are also multi-legged and give me a hard time desoldering, what I do is use both the hot air gun AND the iron. Sometimes I'd get a friend to assist me if I need to, but lately I've been hanging the hot air gun by its cable from my illuminated magnifier, above the board I'm working on. While that's keeping the board nice and and hot, I'd also use the iron to wet all the pins and use my free hand to pull on the component from the other side, using pliers if need be. Once it's out, I leave the gun in place to still keep the board hot and come in with wick to unclog the holes. If they're too small, I use the solder pump from the underside.
It's easier to remove just the pots. You bend them away from the stick mechanism and they come off separately. That way you're only desoldering three points.
It's a lot easier and i've been doing it this way for years!
Greetings from the Southern Tier, in Western N.Y. I have found that to use wick to the most efficient way is to, not spread the braid also flux the braid, not the component & the solder sucks into the braid much better.
just changed the sticks in mine, and just a tip, you don't have to desolder anything to get access to what you need
?
Why didn't you just install hall effect sticks
I have a question, are all Joystick Axis modules universal? My Xbox one controller left stick is drifting bad, and I have an old broken 360 controller, can i take out the old 360 Joystick Axis and solder it to my xbox one controller ?
I usually fix theese just by spraying some contact cleaner in the potentiometers, it always worked for me.
yes I saved a controller that had sticky coffee inside it using contact cleaner only down on the d pad doesnt work
@@si4632 Yeah, liquid damage can cause pernament damage on the buttons
I tried fixing the stick drift on my 360 controllers and only had a soldering iron, i had so much trouble removing the original sticks I gave up. Watching your video brought back the frustrations i felt.
Graham have you ever try low melt solder? It could realy help you in those desoldering situations.
Hi, do you have a preference for low temperature soldering? THANKS
In my limited experience a cheap desolder iron with a spring loaded pump works far more effectively than these motorized ones. I recently fitted my DualSense controllers with hall effect sticks, and my no brand $10 desolder iron + low melt solder + a bit of flux made quick work of it.
A little disappointed that this video did not go over checking the calibration. These analogue potentiometers are not created equal and I have replaced sticks and continue to have a drift problem. The calibration at the factory accounts for this and is hard coded into the controller. With no way to adjust that calibration manually adjusting the twist on the potentiometer and soldering it into a position that applies the factory offset numbers to the new stick is really the only way to do it unfortunately.
Thanks shaggy. It looks like you only had to use 1% of your power to fix the controller.
Solder noob here, can you do this with solely a soldering iron (and solder)? I dont have flux, or a sucker 😅
There's an approach that others have pointed out in the comments - you can replace just the potentiometers (the turning bits on the side of the module) without replacing the entire module.
These are three-pin, so it's possible to remove them with just an iron using what I call the "walk it out" technique, where you keep moving the iron between the three pins, keeping them all hot, and pull the component out in small steps.
However, this requires practise, and fitting a new pot without clearing the holes will also be very difficult. So yea, this can be done with just an iron, but that won't make it much easier.
seeing you struggle.. you can side cutter most of the analog stick off leaving just the legs solderd.
its much easier to remove 1 leg at a time bu just heating then cleaning the holes.
unless you have a reason to not do that. its always gonna be less work on any thing similar.
Thanks, you've convinced me that i should just pay to have this done. This would be my first time soldering since i was 13 i think, I'm 34 now so yeah.. Best to try a beginner soldering project.
33:47 Isn't the right stick still drifting a bit to the left?
Spent hours doing this, did it as instructed and my stick drift is even worse now. Wish you would’ve just done a stick deadzone test so I would’ve known it needed calibrated
I agree, great controllers on PC. Not to mention that stick drift can be largely corrected with a a quick windows controller calibration ;-)
Is it possible to permanently disable left and right on the right analogue stick (for use with a golf game to get a perfect swing back and forth)
remove the bottom potentiometer (green piece) on the right stick
Use flux to resolder, makes the solder flo down beter in to the hols.👍
Everyone complaining about how quickly these fail. Microsoft do a really good no quibble return. Just get a Microsoft account, register the serial number of the controller, then if its under warranty follow the instructions. Takes about 10 days in the UK. You will get what looks like a brand new controller back, just in plain packaging. Save that packaging for the next time 😊
When removing the back grips pull in trigger and pull from the gap next to the trigger it seems brutal but works well i wouldnt recommend the modules you chose but if they work they work
yes the sticking is normal i wouldnt sugest prying when removing the board support from one side and push gently on the analogue modules and it will pop out without bending of the board
Any recommendations for better modules that folks can look out for?
So I have taken apart my own before, there is no need to de-solder anything. You can carefully take everything out without putting any real strain on the wires.
Left stick looks like it was still slightly off center and the right stick was definitely not centered after the repair. The tip on your desoldering pump may have been to big. I used a $20 heated solder sucker off Amazon on the same controller and it worked get first try.
Hello! Great video. How easy would it be to desolder a stick without desoldering gun? I only have a soldering iron and never desoldered anything like a gamepad stick, but unfortunately it started drifting and need replacement.
Great video as always, when are we getting a 'history of Adamant I.T' video?
Only if we are adamant about it.
@@geraldh.8047 😂😂That's a good one.
Useful video. Thanks. What type of solder is best for Xbox joystick modules?
This video is so helpful. My left sick has drift definitely but my question is buying the analog replacements, soldering gun and desolder less expensive than just buying a new controller?
I've seen BigClive put flux on the wick to encourage the solder to come out an play. I wonder if that would have helped in this instance.
Can you post a link for the sticks you got?
Hello, how many degrees soldering iron did you use?
Don't use a heatgun to desolder this.. You can pull the two boards apart with your fingers. You can also pull the rails off with your fingers, no pry tool.11:54 and I'm taking deep breaths.
I shoulda waited. You don't gotta add solder to remove solder, Flux is a preference but you can just heat it with the solder iron. Flux isn't overkill it's also designed to spread the heat and make the solder easier to work with. I will cry. 12:52
18:51 The joystick is smoking and it was protected by the board.
26:05 Solder. Wick.
put aftermarket thumbstick modules on my scuf xbox controllers. the ones i used they have treads on the top. so the thumbstick caps i need have to be treaded on. WHERE DO I FIND TREADED THUMBSTICK CAPS???????
Please DO NOT buy the sticks with the orange potentiometers. They're worse than the blue / teal color ones, and Alps (the ones that were originally inside the controller) are actually one of the best brands to buy.
You did a pretty good job with this repair, but I think you replaced the joysticks with a worse model than what was originally inside :(
If you'd like to continue the joystick repair business, do spend some times on Console repair forums, wikis, subreddits, and discord servers. I'm sure you'll find useful informations and friendly folks that will gladly answer your doubts!
Can you send a link to one’s you’d recommend. I bought cheap green ones before and they were crap.
Did you find a place that stocks the good replacements?
I absolutely love this video and your other videos mate.
i have an intermittent left bumper problem- sometimes a single press registers as multiple presses and sometimes does not register at all. any ideas from the comment section group? guess i just need to pull it apart to find out?
low melt solder and hot air would quickly remove the soldered modules.
Low melt is definitely the way forward with something like this, yea. I need to get on that train.
Definitely would've been easier if I could hot air straight away without needing to desolder first.
Nice video. But is there no need tom calibrate the x-box controller (using it on PC)?
I just replaced a vertical potentiometer, and I have no more stick drift, but now left and right inputs cause a slight pull downward, but only during the input, and the downward pull is a constant rate. Any ideas?
What kind of solder are you using
Hi Graham, the Xbox controller is also being used in the Xbox series. I have another question, do you have link to the replacement parts? I’ve repaired mine with the original analog sticks. However the drift is back :(
Hello everybody! I would like to ask for help! I was changing the right analog stick on the xbox series s/x controller and I accidentally removed capacitor C25 (next to C21) and lost it. Could anyone tell me the value of the C25 so I can replace it?
Would it be easier to totally destroy (carefully) the old stick then take the soldered points out one at a time?
Hi bud, how much do you charge for replacing both thumb sticks to fix stick drift? Thanks
Excellent video. There’s a channel called Northbridge Fix who gives an excellent way to desolder using low melt solder. Maybe you can get that and add it to your arsenal.
A little tip for next time peal the sticker off for the last screw places like cex wont take the controller if its been opend up
hi mate dip your hole wick in rosin flux then make shore u cut off when looks silver as full of solder
Hi just got this controller and, right trigger has a 3mm. dead zone, can it be fixed or just return the controller?, i tried updating firmware and it helped a bit, and now it's 2mm. Also I hear a weird noise in the Xbox button area (when controller is on), but only when I bring the controller really close to my ear, is that sound normal? I hope you respond soon!
i was excited to see a video on replacing drifting sticks but after watching what is involved ...i can see it is out of my skill range
thanks for the video !
Based on other comments, a common easier method is to replace the potentiometers on the sides of the modules only... but that's still a decent amount of solder work IMHO.
Still not a viable repair unless you've already got the equipment.
If you are uk based there are plenty of us that offer this service 😀
Not sure that this approach would work for XBox controllers, but I was able to fix my Switch Joycon drift by inserting a piece of thin cardboard, which surprisingly works amazingly.
Most of the joycon 'fixes' are just temporary solutions until you have to replace the sticks. There is a company that should have some hall effect replacements which I'm very tempted to try.
what clamp type is dat? give me a link please..
Xbox 정품 컨트롤러는 교체가 쉬웠지만 서드파티 컨트롤러(powerA, turtlebeach)는 실패했습니다.
무연납에 유연납 보강, 납땜 흡입기에도 일부 연결부는 제거할수없었읍니다.
아날로그 스틱 연결부분을 별도 납땜으로 고정하여 제거하기 어렵게 설계 되어 있고 납땜 제거가 잘 되지 않아 약간의 힘에도 PCB 패턴이 떨어져 나갔습니다. 아마도 부품 교체 보다는 다시 구매하도록 제작되었다는 생각입니다.
A pair of heat-resistant silicone gloves would come in handy for that situation.
Great video, I have my son's controller to fix, what was the test software you used at the end?
gamepadviewer.com/
Well, after watching this i don't think I'll try it for myself, just maybe swap the decorative stuff my blue controller to a working black one. Then maybe see if a local repair shop will do it. I don't have any equipment nor a regular need for it so it would seem odd to spend more than twice the price of the controller to repair it and then never really use the stuff again, maybe a couple times.
I've snapped 2 of the legs off the potentiometer. They're stuck on the holes in the board. Anyone have any advice on getting them out. I've tried poking, heating, hot air. They're not coming
Is there any way I would be able to replace my joystick with a touchpad like from a steam deck or steam controller??? Is it possible???
They don't have to be calibrated?
to stop stick drift you can just change the green square things on the side of the stick
I wouldn't. if you're already in the controller you might as well replace the whole stick since that's what you paid for. only if the replacements you got aren't that good I would entertain doing that.
Yes, the sticks are supposed to stick at the edges once the face plate is off 👍
I wish they made the sticks socketed it would be so much simpler
How would be the result if you used flux ?
What would You charge for this Work Graham ??? Surely it would be cheaper if not the same to just buy a new Controller ...
The time and effort needed for the repair of these controllers seems quite considerable. How much do these controllers cost?
£50 new, £30 used
@@TheSpotify95 I have bought few of them for 10 and sold them for 30. If its easy fix, then it's worth it.
7:40 Man you need a pinecill, that ting gets to temp in like 10 seconds
can i ask what you use to desolder please? its something i have really struggled with when fixing xbox controllers. thanks
1.결합되어 있는 납땜에 열전도가 어렵기 때문에 납땜을 추가로 부착하여 녹이면 기존 납땜도 부드러워집니다.
2.전원이 연결된 납땜흡입기는 부착된 납의 제거를 쉽게 할 것입니다.
3. 플럭스를 사용하면 쉽게 녹습니다.
The way i do it with similar tools, i use hot air to melt the solder and then i go with desoldering gun and just hold suction until all is gone while i keep it melted with air. So much faster for me atleast 🙂
Well done adam,an exellent job,
did anybody else see the stick drift in the right joystick at the end of the test? 😂 nothing against his ability, just the part 😂
use those solder aid ie, picks punch
Use low melt solder, which will weaken the original solder, this works much better than using the method you illustrated. I have done both methods, and explicitly using low melt solder does much better based on my experience.
my soldering iron tip doesn't seem to get hot enough to even tin the end of a wire do you know why?
Sounds like the element's dead. New tip needed, or new iron if it doesn't have element-in-tip.
surely the repair cost more than buying a new controller?
That's the dilemma. When I replaced the sticks on some Nintendo joy cons, that was a much easier job (no soldering) and joy cons are obnoxiously expensive.
This job, no I don't think it was economically viable. I did it super cheap to find out. It'd probably be worth it on an Elite controller, or if you can get super fancy sticks.
Nice job :p but 1.5 h to replace 2 analogs stick it took long ..
That is the series X. I have the black one. They can do bluetooth as well, so can pair to android.
I mean you could easily offer a service to get the sticks fitted with hall effect replacement sticks, then you could advertise "sticks will never drift again"
Is there no need for calibration?
XS controllers have auto calibration. Xbox One controllers (without the share button) may require manual calibration.
Source: I’ve spent too much time repairing Xbone and Series XS controllers (all mine).
This controller is from the series X/s as I have the series s and this exact controller!
You didn’t even test for joystick drift. All you did was install another joystick. Bet you the house that thing had significant drift in both joysticks after install. It’s not as easy as simply installing new joysticks. Wish it were
So I haven't watched your whole video yet. I just started it so maybe you're going to answer this in the video. But how much did you charge for this repair? Because I can buy a brand new Xbox controller the exact same one for $59.99 on the official Xbox website. And I mean personally I don't know if I would get this repaired. I would probably just buy new.
Good video but you really should use Flux buddie your solder will flow much better.
ud use like 10 cm ish for anker points