Great job and professional!!! The quality of build and use of castings were just amazing for the time period !! And the ball bearings made them so modern at that time for the home shop !!
I have a whole pile of electric motors if your interested I could check for the size you need, some of them are 3 phase. I installed a 2 horsepower on my old craftsman, much better than the old 1 hp.
I have a copy of a 1980 Rockwell 10inch saw. In South Africa at the time Rockwell were very expensive so we bought a replica "Dankey " made in Taiwan at that stage. My farther and then from 1997 myself used this saw quite a lot. Even thou it is not the real McCoy it is a very sturdy and great machine. Recently I decided to recondition it at that is how I ended up watching the video. I have completed all the work but since I started watching relevant videos I learn a lot and would like to do a little more. Your machine looks great and although not the same there's a lot of similarities. My guide looks almost the same but it is damaged and also the two wheels adjusting the angle and depth which I cannot get in South Africa. Thanks for a great video
Holy Mackerel that saw is a thing of beauty. In order to restore that saw you would have to be a mechanical engineer, a machinist, a carpenter, a computer expert. Oh wait a minute I forgot I'm talking to RRintheshop here. It looks great Randy your detailed improvements make it better than new.
Looking good Randy, I love old Delta -- Rockwell tools. That fence isn't their greatest achievement for sure. Yours seems to be better built than the one my dad and grandfather bought in the early 70's. Isn't Gary a great guy, people need to give him more thumbs ups so others can find his channel. His channel is way underrated.
@@RRINTHESHOP Somehow this suprise me. I imagine that the original was a duel shaft. Two motors would work but it will be nice to have the machine set up like it came.
@@RRINTHESHOP Randy, in my last comment I ment to say "somehow this doesn't surprise me". So basically I said the opposite of what I meant in very bad English.
@@RRINTHESHOP I rewound a few motors back in the day. I worked at the oldest aircraft repair station west of the Mississippi. Our capabilities list covered page after page, and covered aircraft that had been out of production for 50 years. Fun fact:. Per the FAA, rewinding an armature is a major repair and requires a Form 337. Rewinding a field coil is a minor repair and only requires a log entry. I got my saw 35 years ago and faintly remember going through the motor. I don't remember having to rewind. I do remember it being roomy and easy to work on. And heavy. If you go with smaller motors, you may need to add ballast to your stand to maintain a safe CG. Repulsion-induction motors have low starting current compared to capacitor start motors; not so important nowadays since circuit breakers have mostly replaced fuses in home shops. But still a nice feature.
Randy, I remember using a Delta table saw quite a lot about 50 years ago. I had the rip fence on and off the saw all the time and I don't recall it ever falling apart. It just went back on and worked. I think I have vague memories of the rod extending out the back of the fence and being double-nutted, with the nuts floating. I don't recall what was inside to actuate the clamp lever, I guess I always assumed it was another nut.
Inside the far end casting there is a rod guide. This one was broken off, It was poorly designed and I think this happened a lot. I made a new stainless guide. When the fence is off of the saw it can come off the lever. Just a real poor design. I think if it was longer and was out the back it would be better. Thanks.
@@RRINTHESHOP I took the fence off my saw today. Took it apart to do some cleaning. Mine has a square block at the hook end sized to fit inside the housing. The block is drilled to fit the sliding rod loosely. There is a small coil spring between that block and the inside bottom of the housing. Together these parts provide friction on the rod to keep it still unless pulled by the locking nut at the other end. If yours is missing these parts you likely wouldn't notice, other than the mechanism falling apart during assembly. My saw and fence differs a little from yours; it may be a little newer. The casting on the handle end of the fence on mine is beefier. It surrounds the tube almost completely, with only about a 1/2 inch gap to clear the tube mount screws and bushings. I was cleaning that casting today.
I have a King 10 inch contractors saw. I bought it new in the 1990's and the fence is an identical copy of that. It fell apart years ago and never worked right since. This will be help full to get it back in working order...I just looked at it. Many pot metal parts on it. Not as well made as yours. Great video Randy.
Nice work. I think the slots in the end caps are just to provide more spring flex for the grab nubs (or whatever you'd call them). They could have made a much better fence than those if they'd have simplified it and used the savings for a more robust and accurate design like the Unifence or a Biesemeyer.
I wonder if you could "upgrade" that rod/lever deal with a cotter pin to keep it from sliding off, or possibly putting in a piece of foam rubber in the end of the bracket... just something to keep it from popping off
This has been a beautiful restoration to watch. I have the exact same fence system on an older grizzly table saw. On mine you can use the fine adjust with the lock on. It moves it exactly 3/16 each click. I had always assumed it was designed for either box joints or cutting veneer. On mine, there is a double spring that lifts the lock when you use the fine adjust. The downside is that it won't lock very solidly unless you are in a gear tooth. On the flip side, being able to move an exact amount after locking the fence it's excellent on a bandsaw for veneer work. Are you sure yours will not move when the lock is on?
Hi, do know where I could find the locking center mechanism for the level and tilt for a 34-802 model from 1988? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
when the obstacle of attaching the tubes presented itself my dad drilled holes and used quarter twenty threads and nuts to back-up the bolts then put all the pertinent information about the upgrades done in the notes section of the owners manual
Further to my comment of earlier today, do you have the specs for the spring washers (conical?Belleville?) on which the table slides? I see those in your video but they are not present in my saw. I got from the Old Wood Working Machinery site "Operating and Maintenance Instructions" for this saw originally printed in 1946 and those washers are described only as "Special 29/64" spring washer". It would be great if you could suggest a vendor in the US for those washers.
Great job!! I recently rebuilt the same model table saw, there´s small differences in the fence front clamp. This saw had been extensively used and was not in good shape, but it will be good again for many years now. This saw is seriously top-heavy which makes hard work of moving the table up and down so I added a weights system with pulleys and cable that helps a lot. Is there any way to add photos to the comments?
After my Band Saw restoration and finish welding table, thing I give our 1941 J.D. Wallace able saw a new coat of paint,,the Delta is coming along nice. Try this and welcome to share,,,I vacuum a nylon string from the out side of the tube ( or sq tube/ or rectangular) through the hole that receives the bolt. If the dim is a close fit slip a compression spring over the threads to tie of string. Have had to use double side sticky tape on a few application's to attach the pull string, but rare, and the spring trick has always won out (@@). Try this sometime and let us know if this was a good tip? Super Labor Day to all,,Bear. (Was that Tung Oil you applied to the leaf?? I use tung oil on model A bowes and any wood that is iin the body).
Randy I make my table fence I can similar you look beautiful the wood do the different my I use aluminium ah you have good tools there in you shop the rods come very nice and clean who designed that table saw many years ago have vision from that to the future if look the new ones is all copy of the old ones and the money they ask look similar designs today more sofisticado but nothing to be impressed cups you can make them easy I like bicycle ends cups for handle bars well front that you make really nice big table randy tell about the motor back in Colombia I make my own table whit 5 hp motor because the wood in Colombia is very hard still 10 inches is to small my is from 12 inches thanks randy I’m part of channel now thanks again
Why is expensive the motor sorry no body help this no good I’m to far in London I like to help you honestly you probably my age I’m pensioner from English government because you became pensioners in Colombia you go to be dead first here in England when you work the government look after you pension properly anyway I keep watching you I see you today for first time you my inspiration to be working no matter what age in London old people when retired they don’t do anything to keep healthy in Colombia we do like you active every day in country side I really admire you my friend hopefully god help out to open my shop in Colombia to keep a life and active everyday thanks my friend I’m from cali Colombia where about you in America I like to visit America one day 😂🙏🙏
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Great job and professional!!! The quality of build and use of castings were just amazing for the time period !! And the ball bearings made them so modern at that time for the home shop !!
Thank you very much!
Nice job restoring the saw, those tube caps are upper level, thanks for the video Randy.
I have a whole pile of electric motors if your interested I could check for the size you need, some of them are 3 phase. I installed a 2 horsepower on my old craftsman, much better than the old 1 hp.
Thank you Eric. They worked out well.
Thank you, first I am letting Gary see what he has.
I have a copy of a 1980 Rockwell 10inch saw. In South Africa at the time Rockwell were very expensive so we bought a replica "Dankey " made in Taiwan at that stage. My farther and then from 1997 myself used this saw quite a lot. Even thou it is not the real McCoy it is a very sturdy and great machine. Recently I decided to recondition it at that is how I ended up watching the video. I have completed all the work but since I started watching relevant videos I learn a lot and would like to do a little more. Your machine looks great and although not the same there's a lot of similarities. My guide looks almost the same but it is damaged and also the two wheels adjusting the angle and depth which I cannot get in South Africa. Thanks for a great video
Nice saws, My son in law has this one and he uses it in his small home shop. Thanks for watching.
Randy, Everything is looking awesome. Your doing a fantastic job restoring that saw. Thanks for bringing us along. Gary
Thank you Gary for your great help.
Nice piece of kit getting shaped up. Thanks!
Coming together. Thanks
amazing results. really enjoy the multiple view video. thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it! thank you
Either a genius or a mad man designed that fence assembly. The saw looks absolutely amazing. Great job.
Thank you very much! For about that.
First the Concrete Mixer, now the Table Saw, great restoration series. Thank you for bringing us along.
Thank Vernon, I hope you are doing well.
Nice one Randy, thanks for sharing 👍 Gary really is a nice guy
Thank you Ralfy, Gary is a great friend. He is helping with the motor issue.
True craftsmanship
Thank you, Saw works great.
Good looking table saw restoration Randy. Very nice and probably therapeutic too.
I think so too! Thanks Doc.
Man that saw is a work of art, not many made to that degree of quality and a nice respectful restoration. Well done Randy, enjoyed very much, cheers!
Thank you Howder, coming along great.
Holy Mackerel that saw is a thing of beauty. In order to restore that saw you would have to be a mechanical engineer, a machinist, a carpenter, a computer expert. Oh wait a minute I forgot I'm talking to RRintheshop here. It looks great Randy your detailed improvements make it better than new.
Wow, thanks! Jim. Just wait until I get the jet engine installed.
Looking good Randy, I love old Delta -- Rockwell tools. That fence isn't their greatest achievement for sure. Yours seems to be better built than the one my dad and grandfather bought in the early 70's. Isn't Gary a great guy, people need to give him more thumbs ups so others can find his channel. His channel is way underrated.
Gary is great, He working on a motor for me.
@@RRINTHESHOP Somehow this suprise me. I imagine that the original was a duel shaft. Two motors would work but it will be nice to have the machine set up like it came.
@@andyZ3500s The original is a dual shaft motor. i am working on getting an original motor.
@@RRINTHESHOP Randy, in my last comment I ment to say "somehow this doesn't surprise me". So basically I said the opposite of what I meant in very bad English.
@@RRINTHESHOP I rewound a few motors back in the day. I worked at the oldest aircraft repair station west of the Mississippi. Our capabilities list covered page after page, and covered aircraft that had been out of production for 50 years. Fun fact:. Per the FAA, rewinding an armature is a major repair and requires a Form 337. Rewinding a field coil is a minor repair and only requires a log entry.
I got my saw 35 years ago and faintly remember going through the motor. I don't remember having to rewind. I do remember it being roomy and easy to work on. And heavy. If you go with smaller motors, you may need to add ballast to your stand to maintain a safe CG. Repulsion-induction motors have low starting current compared to capacitor start motors; not so important nowadays since circuit breakers have mostly replaced fuses in home shops. But still a nice feature.
Beautiful saw!!! Awesome job Randy!!!
Thank you Danny.
Just awesome. The best saw, the best restoration. 🤩
Thank you CaLem, coming along well.
This saw is awesome. What a fantastic job so far!
Thank you Phil. Not to bad for an old guy.
Hi Randy, great video. Just been reading about those 'Lacquer Sticks'. Ordered a couple. Cheers Kevin
They work good, thanks.
Looks fantastic Randy! Love the colors and details! Beautiful!
Thanks John, looking good.
Loving this series Randy, thanks so much for sharing, lots of work but it's paying off! Dave
Glad you enjoy it! Coming along. Thanks.
Nice job
Thank you Paul.
Randy, I remember using a Delta table saw quite a lot about 50 years ago. I had the rip fence on and off the saw all the time and I don't recall it ever falling apart. It just went back on and worked. I think I have vague memories of the rod extending out the back of the fence and being double-nutted, with the nuts floating. I don't recall what was inside to actuate the clamp lever, I guess I always assumed it was another nut.
Inside the far end casting there is a rod guide. This one was broken off, It was poorly designed and I think this happened a lot. I made a new stainless guide. When the fence is off of the saw it can come off the lever. Just a real poor design. I think if it was longer and was out the back it would be better. Thanks.
@@RRINTHESHOP I took the fence off my saw today. Took it apart to do some cleaning. Mine has a square block at the hook end sized to fit inside the housing. The block is drilled to fit the sliding rod loosely. There is a small coil spring between that block and the inside bottom of the housing. Together these parts provide friction on the rod to keep it still unless pulled by the locking nut at the other end. If yours is missing these parts you likely wouldn't notice, other than the mechanism falling apart during assembly. My saw and fence differs a little from yours; it may be a little newer. The casting on the handle end of the fence on mine is beefier. It surrounds the tube almost completely, with only about a 1/2 inch gap to clear the tube mount screws and bushings. I was cleaning that casting today.
Great saw. As usual it looks great and I am sure it is Randy Richard right. I am waiting for you to get done and make some sawdust.
Work''en on it, Thanks Harold.
Morning Randy! I found out the hard way how complicated fences can be.
Morning Craig. I hope it was not bad. Thanks.
Let's put it this way, I understand your frustrations.
@@CraigLYoung Ho yes, thank Craig.
As I said on Instagram. I only have two words for your restoration, Absolutely Beautiful.
Take Care and Stay Safe.
Bob
Thank you Bob, coming along nice.
I have a King 10 inch contractors saw. I bought it new in the 1990's and the fence is an identical copy of that. It fell apart years ago and never worked right since. This will be help full to get it back in working order...I just looked at it. Many pot metal parts on it. Not as well made as yours. Great video Randy.
Thanks Randy, lots were made this way.
After seeing that fence, I am sure glad my Delta has the Biesemeyer...
Oh yes a much better fence.
Too nice for your son in law
Yeah I think I will keep it and it can go in the living room. Thanks Yuchol.
I really like your Video just one Question when you add the wood pieces to your Guide how does your markings on your guide rail still stay relevant.
Yes, you have to adjust the pointer. Thanks for watching.
Nice work. I think the slots in the end caps are just to provide more spring flex for the grab nubs (or whatever you'd call them). They could have made a much better fence than those if they'd have simplified it and used the savings for a more robust and accurate design like the Unifence or a Biesemeyer.
That is what I think also. Yes it will take a bit of fiddling to make sure the fence is square to the blade.
I wonder if you could "upgrade" that rod/lever deal with a cotter pin to keep it from sliding off, or possibly putting in a piece of foam rubber in the end of the bracket... just something to keep it from popping off
Might be difficult, I will have to look at it. Thanks.
Enjoyed….beauty…koko
Thanks Chuck.
This has been a beautiful restoration to watch. I have the exact same fence system on an older grizzly table saw. On mine you can use the fine adjust with the lock on. It moves it exactly 3/16 each click. I had always assumed it was designed for either box joints or cutting veneer. On mine, there is a double spring that lifts the lock when you use the fine adjust. The downside is that it won't lock very solidly unless you are in a gear tooth. On the flip side, being able to move an exact amount after locking the fence it's excellent on a bandsaw for veneer work. Are you sure yours will not move when the lock is on?
I just noticed yours pulls out to disengage. Mine does not do this, only rotary motion. I found it unusually clever for grizzly
Th lock and fine adjust are independent controls. The lock is very secure and lock directly on the tube very tight.
Thanks JeanPaul
Are you planning on restoring that band aid on the bench?
No but it would make great video. Thanks Pete.
Hi, do know where I could find the locking center mechanism for the level and tilt for a 34-802 model from 1988? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Try this link: www.ereplacementparts.com/delta-34802-type-1034-tilting-arbor-unisaw-parts-c-3275_3334_14083.html
when the obstacle of attaching the tubes presented itself my dad drilled holes and used quarter twenty threads and nuts to back-up the bolts then put all the pertinent information about the upgrades done in the notes section of the owners manual
Nice way to do it. Thanks Joseph.
Very nice..Good video.
Thank you very much
Further to my comment of earlier today, do you have the specs for the spring washers (conical?Belleville?) on which the table slides? I see those in your video but they are not present in my saw. I got from the Old Wood Working Machinery site "Operating and Maintenance Instructions" for this saw originally printed in 1946 and those washers are described only as "Special 29/64" spring washer". It would be great if you could suggest a vendor in the US for those washers.
No specs on the washers, They look to be just a plain wavy spring steel washer. Thanks.
Great job!! I recently rebuilt the same model table saw, there´s small differences in the fence front clamp. This saw had been extensively used and was not in good shape, but it will be good again for many years now. This saw is seriously top-heavy which makes hard work of moving the table up and down so I added a weights system with pulleys and cable that helps a lot. Is there any way to add photos to the comments?
I don’t think you can do photos. thanks.
How is it compare to the unisaw?
My unisaw is completely different. Thanks.
No Comparison between the 1160 and the unisaw. 1160 is a tilting table where the unisaw is a tilting arbor.
It's too bad you're so far away I have the matching 4 inch jointer that goes with it.
Thank you Lloyd, I have the Jointer, that is next on the docket.
After my Band Saw restoration and finish welding table, thing I give our 1941 J.D. Wallace able saw a new coat of paint,,the Delta is coming along nice. Try this and welcome to share,,,I vacuum a nylon string from the out side of the tube ( or sq tube/ or rectangular) through the hole that receives the bolt. If the dim is a close fit slip a compression spring over the threads to tie of string. Have had to use double side sticky tape on a few application's to attach the pull string, but rare, and the spring trick has always won out (@@). Try this sometime and let us know if this was a good tip? Super Labor Day to all,,Bear. (Was that Tung Oil you applied to the leaf?? I use tung oil on model A bowes and any wood that is iin the body).
Thanks Bear for the tips. I used Danish oil on the wood.
Randy I make my table fence I can similar you look beautiful the wood do the different my I use aluminium ah you have good tools there in you shop the rods come very nice and clean who designed that table saw many years ago have vision from that to the future if look the new ones is all copy of the old ones and the money they ask look similar designs today more sofisticado but nothing to be impressed cups you can make them easy I like bicycle ends cups for handle bars well front that you make really nice big table randy tell about the motor back in Colombia I make my own table whit 5 hp motor because the wood in Colombia is very hard still 10 inches is to small my is from 12 inches thanks randy I’m part of channel now thanks again
Why is expensive the motor sorry no body help this no good I’m to far in London I like to help you honestly you probably my age I’m pensioner from English government because you became pensioners in Colombia you go to be dead first here in England when you work the government look after you pension properly anyway I keep watching you I see you today for first time you my inspiration to be working no matter what age in London old people when retired they don’t do anything to keep healthy in Colombia we do like you active every day in country side I really admire you my friend hopefully god help out to open my shop in Colombia to keep a life and active everyday thanks my friend I’m from cali Colombia where about you in America I like to visit America one day 😂🙏🙏