Well that sucks. I know there are specialists that can machine out plasma arc transfer (harder than chrome lined…?) cylinder liners on certain automotive examples (ie. Nissan GTR R35, Ford GT500 5.4, Ford Gen 3 Coyote, etc). *BUT* I’m fairly certain those aren’t done on an individual job basis. And are small batch machining operations using a core exchange program. Sooo probably not applicable and almost certainly not financially logical in your case. Ummm LS swap?!😅
Cams and tappits are case hardened so when they start to show signs of wear they must all be replaced. New tappits on old cam lobes will destroy the lobes. I recommend replacing the cam and tappits as a set.
Also, rebuild the injection pump. I didn't catch if you where going to or not. Do not just have redone injectors, what went through the injectors had to go through the pump first. The crap that tore up the injector tips, did a number on the pump plungers and bores. Best wishes from the far North.
Why not have them reground then? They all looked to be in good enough shape that I’d think it would be worth a shot for the machine shop to try it. If there was damage then ya toss them. But the case hardening, as shallow as it is, is still deep enough to be ground once.
@@Mad.Man.Marine the lobes are already under spec, so grinding them is just going to make them even smaller. Plus, who knows how much of the case hardening is left after the wear. Could get into the "soft" core and things will wear down really fast and trash the engine.
When you grind metal it heats it up and removes the hardening... you would have to re-harden all the lifters and the cam lobes and bearing surfaces.This would require special equipment that would cost many times what a new cam and lifter set would cost.@@Mad.Man.Marine
When you get into machines this size, you mostly need other large machines to work on them. So far that overhead crane has paid for itself. It was interesting to see the cab come off by the clearance measured with a micrometer.
Matt, things did go right. The oil analysis came back showing possible problems , you investigated the possible instead of ignoring it. Saved the block. Crank and other high dollar items which would have been destroyed if that piston had let go. Replace the camshaft and lifters cheaper now then down the road. You are too far into it not to replace it.
Well Matt, consider yourself lucky that cracked piston didn't grenade itself after you bought it. I've seen that on some engines where a cracked piston was the culprit in destroying a block itself. Not to mention the piston rod, main journals and pretty much the entire engine. You're definitely developing into a very good diesel mechanic and old excavation equipment refurbisher. Can't wait for the next episode and see how you're doing. Especially how the block turns out. Keep up the good work.
I love your videos to bits and back! You are a fantastic presenter. Making no fuss with the engines and all the other stuff. No dissapointment on this side, just a great, peacefull entertainment. Thanks a lot for letting us into your workshop and thanks for making great content. I don't have a TV, youtube is my primary source of video entertainment and you are at the top of the creators with what you're doing here. Kudos!!!
Bronze = valve guides. usually. Babbitt bearings = journals, rods, usually tin/lead/copper alloy, could be a source of "bronze" in oil analysis. Oil analysis is good if repeated on a periodic interval. Waiting 10 years and then looking wont tell you anything useful. Your best bet is to do what you're doing.. tear down, inspect, Replace as needed (IRAN). carry on! :) As overhauls go, this is not a bad one. It looks like you're well on your way to a great rebuild. Kinda envious. Wish I had one. :)
Just to agree with what others have said "new cam new lifters ". Great content, no disappointment here. Just to let you know from my perspective your luck is very good; great wife and kids great home and property, and a strong work ethic. As the old saying goes " be careful what you wish for "
Carlaustin excellent comments- as a long time viewer and fan of Matt’s meticulous work and attention to detail, I would opine that he creates his own “luck” by his determination and positive attitude! 👍I have pondered how I would really enjoy being able to be a free work assistant/apprentice for him…….. except for the weather! I’m a retired Dentist/contractor in SoCal 😃
Good or bad, your diligence of getting right down to the bare bottom and checking every part is amazing. It would be so easy to shortcut a step, then have to go back to it a few years on. The perseverance showed on the dozer. But I get a feeling an engine rebuild is a cakewalk vs hydraulic control and electric harness replacement. Crossing fingers on the machine shop report!
Thanks Matt! You’re very calm, patient, and excellent at diagnosing problems. I look forward to future Matt with 1 million subscribers in a nice big barn garage with long runs of tables to spread parts out on! I don’t know how you put all that back together.😁
Hi Matt, great video as usual, re your timing marks on your left you had two teath marked C (creating a valley) and on the right you had one tooth marked C, the one tooth fits between or in the valley created by the two C's, This may sound strange, but every full 360deg rotation doesn't mean that all your marks will line up, I've just rebuild my DB990 and it took 17 full rotations to realign the marks, which is why they tell you once you've timed it in the rebuild do not rotated it untill you've got it all back together. Charlie likes to get involved, it's great the way she lies there and just raises her eye browes many thanks Barry
Going through my time as an apprentice (50 years ago), one of my senior tradesmen told me, “if everything is going smoothly, go back and check your work.” Pulled me out of the pooh a couple of times. Good job, thanks for posting.
I was setting here listening to your explanations to things only to see a commentary briefly explaining a difference in your thoughts coming across the screen and grinning because its a relief to know I am not the only who does that sort of thing. You stated that you were disappointed in some of the issues you finding in engine components and the cost of needing to replace them, and I commiserate with you on that, but I have witnessed guys trying to skate on not replacing components only to have catastrophic failures down the line, and true to your nature, doing things as right as you can as you always do, is one main reason I watch your channel sir, thanks for the update, enjoyed the video as always,
Hi Matt some times when you have a close to empty tank of fuel, over night the water in the air inside the tank can condensate and build over time a substancial amount of water in the tank. Filling the fuel tank after work is a great practice to prevent this issue. Can't wait to se this machinew working. Keep the good work
If you end up getting new cam get new lifters. Those cam bearings along with cam bearing journals did not look good. Glad you are getting piston and liners complete. Wise choice. If your into it this much. Maybe magnaflux the crank? . Thanks for video.
no, no, no I disagree, last week's episode was not rubbish, I enjoyed seeing the cab come off and all the intracases, that's not spelt right, of all the fittings. also glad that Charlie is still alive and did not die in the workshop. Great vid, quality workmanship, thank you.
At least it is reasonably accessible, plus he is not going to use the excavator for a living (all day, everyday), so maybe he will luck out. It is getting harder and harder to find US and Japan made parts anymore. NOS stuff is disappearing on the older iron.
If the turbo CHRA blows up it could take out the engine with it. The turbo is in-line with all of the engine fluid systems (intake, exhaust, coolant, and oil) so if the turbo grenades your engine is going to eat metal bits
@@einfelder8262 Area Diesel Services can do it for a reasonable price. Plus he could most likely get a bit off as a colab. ADS likes to put up videos where they repair YT'ers equipment.
I hope when you get the excavator going that you will have some videos of you clear the property by your pond and on your property Matt! The dozer and the excavator!
Checking and checking and checking for next video. AHHHHHHH. Love your channel now that you are doing an excavator. The dozer is something everyone does and doesn’t really draw my attention but when you do an entire excavator its gold. It’s just yu renewing everything and then prolly painting it at the end which will give you the most views you ever had. Love the channel please upload next part not sure how much longer I can wait lol 😊😊😊😊😊😊
In my humble opinion, it is obvious that this machine has NEVER had any serious effort at preventative maintenance. On systems that I've managed, the numbers in the analysis are distorted as contaminants accumulate instead of being flushed out by filter and fluid changes. I'll bet that someone bought this machine used and never did anything but crank it up and go to work. That's why so many good machines end up sitting abandoned. Trends in the measurements will reveal what's going to happen in the long and short run. You have a fan club here in Georgia.
Your luck must be the same as mine, because this is exactly how things always seem to go for me too. The up side is that, in the end you're going to have a much better end product, and you're going to know exactly what you have. Nice work Matt, great video as always!
Your channel is completely underrated in my opinion. 100K subs are obtainable and look forward to that day for you and the Shop Foreperson who always has your back ;)
I would also have the injection pump checked. With all the wear in the injectors there could be wear in the plungers, at least that was the way it was with my tractor. Love your videos!
I think you are right on how the ingress of water into the fuel tank occurred...are there replacement caps that do not have this "feature"? Between you, John from Farmcraft101 & Andrew Camarata...I really get some excellent knowledge on these machines...thank you for bringing us along :)
The engine is from a standing machine, unlike a road going machine like a truck, so you don't need to give it a near full overhaul. Piston #1 and its sleeve need renewing, sleeve #2, 3, and 4 would do with just a light hone. And renew all the rings, and this should give a balanced compression on all cylinders. The cam bearings, if cheap renew all otherwise just a polish on the rough one(s). The engine will get new, good oil, so the mating parts will just bed in with time.
Matt, your content is never a disappointment! I watch a ton of RUclips and your videos are some of the best! You're super thorough, meticulous, and you do a great job of explaining things that I know little or nothing about! Doing what you do in your work space is beyond impressive. I can't wait to see what this machine looks and runs like when you're done!
You and project farm are the only videos I acually look forward to watching when you all post.. keep up the good work. Love watching things get tore apart and rebuilt and refurbished..
One of my tasks as a QA guy in the engine plant of a large car company in the long distant past was checking the torque to yield machines were doing the job to spec. I had to take new fasteners, center drill both ends and measure the length with a ball end mike then run the fastener through the machine cycle and measure again to check the yield (stretch) using a new fastener for each spindle. I doubt you will pick it up with a check on the shank diam with a mike. When fasteners have been torqued to yield the material has been structurally changed by being plasticised. They should never be reused. Enjoying the series keep 'em coming please. Eric
they looked really good. This is just a guess, but I would thank there isn't nearly as much thrust running a hydraulic pump than you would see in a car
Matt, I dont comment as much as I should but I sit watching the video feeling a bit under the weather. I just wanted to say thank you for doing these , I `ve watched all your vids and probably dont` appreciate how much goes into them so once again thanks and keep on entertaining us if you can .
Morning Matt, Hang in there regarding setbacks. Me and the wife often refer to ourselves as the Hardaways as nothing comes easy it’s always the Hard Way!!! Enjoying the video series.
I'm asking my physician for an Olanzapine prescription. Mostly because this stuff makes me dizzy and thinking about putting this back together makes me sick to my stomach. I can't put together IKEA furniture without having spare parts leftover. Good luck, Matt. #thoughtsandprayers
A replacement part made in China? Have you got the spare to replace the new part that you've just bought? It's going to be more likely to fail catastrophically than it is to have a good working life! Before I forget thanks for doing these videos I really enjoy watching your work!
Nice teardown. I don't think you have bad luck... I think you saved yourself a pile of headache... no doubt that engine will be a nice runner when she's put back together.
I think your fuel cap theory is spot on. They probably left the tank low most of the time and that led to condensation. Ignored fuel filter changes. Some grit got in that engine somehow. Probably multiple ways.
I really like how you are so methodical and the detail you go into in explaining the procedures. I’m going to be rebuilding an old Kubota tractor my dad has and though it is a different brand than what you are rebuilding it helps me understand the process. Thanks!
Nice video again, great! According to my experience in other brand engines I would change the cam lifters. At least in Volvo engines that I've mostly worked with the case hardened lifters should be changed when ever there are any wear marks. Also it would a good idea to carefully check/rebuild the fuel injector pump while the engine is out of the excavator...
I hope your machine shop recommends new pistons wrist pins tappet’s cam / cam bearings . The rest looks good the cranky go’s ringy dingy it’s not stamped 10-20 thousand under anywhere so keep on givener eh.😂🤪 thanks Matt .😂👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Great vid. To bad the piston is cracked. I would replace the cam it is just too warn to work with considering you are basicly doing a rebuild. I have been a mechanic for many years and if you don't want to touch it ever again after the build its best practice to replace it.
You should not be disappointed with your progress Matt, I think you are doing great. Take your time and be thorough, you will never regret it. You are an awesome young man. Art from Ohio
Just a suggestion Matt....On inline engines I usually turn the block so the cylinders are horizontal. Makes tapping the pistons out a bit easier and you don't have to worry so much about them dropping. Great vids though...don't stop now, you rock!
Good video Matt. I am never bothered by unfortunate discoveries. I've come to expect them in everything I do. Better to find them now, then half way through a reassembly. Just sorry yours will be so expensive. But at least you'll know you'll have a good engine when you're finished. Take care.
Hi Matt… I’m finding that your videos are always a great watch… you do some informative investigative work is that is good to know. Look forward to your next video.
You did the right thing Matt.. Better safe than sorry.. The machine shop will have the last word but as I see it you were very lucky with this cracked piston...All the other parts had reasonable wear.. So.. You may get out of this part with minimum expenses.. Which, gives me hope of an almost new engine.. Best wishes for it..
Sorry you have extra/ unanticipated costs in getting the engine the way you want. If I remember right you drove that thing out of where it was sitting. Amazing!! As always, really look forward to and enjoy your videos!
Matt, morning... Impressive tear-down and description of parts etc... I really enjoy your videos... Thanks... Dave Get new lifters if you do order the cam shaft... Measure the length of the bolts to determine the "stretch"... Get new bolts... If the stretch is "soft", you will not get the correct torque... The crank could loosen and old Matt would have to do this again or the crank could break... Old lifters will wear badly on a new cam...
Great video...might be the time to face the music and do a complete rebuild...with all the other work you will eventually do on the hydraulics and electrical systems...you will have a great machine...
You are a brave man. There are so many parts. I feel bad that you found problems with the engine. I get the feeling that engines were not meant to be taken apart but it is something beyond my ability. I sure hope that the repairs will not go over budget. It sounds like you will have a new machine when you are done. It sort of sounds like it was on its way to the grave. It is to bad that they did not take better care of it before you got it. Now it will get the love that it needs. Thanks for the video. You do a nice job.
This thing will be running like a brand new rig when you get done with it. Really enjoying the video man. After this project, you need a really good dump truck and heavy duty trailer to haul this stuff around.
Fellow hillbilly pay the price once. Get new pistons rings all berings tappets pump rebuild everything. One old part can turn a rebuild into 2 disastrous rebuilds and double the work. 👍respect
Keep in mind the cam only turns at half the crankshaft. Would probably go a long time yet as it is. Idler gear is probably a non hunting gearset so marks will likely line back up after so many revolutions. You’re balancing budget vs what absolutely needs to be replaced and its never an easy call. Myself Id probably change all 4 pistons for peace of mind.
Good to see you aren't afraid to spend the money to do this right. Nice Z in the garage, will have to check and see if you have done any video's on it.
If your going to replace 1 piston for a crack,replace all would be best thing to do, also those are full floating pins. rod bushing “worn” piston is worn. Replace camshaft and lifters Great job as always ps have the injector pump gone through
Another awesome Matt. There are some excellent comments here on the specifics of rebuilding. I suspect you will take them all in. I would tend to heed the warning/caution about that “chinesium” turbo cartridge (somebody mentioned it being a Subaru turbo, so probably easy to find a better quality one). Great video, Thank you sir.
The usual source of water in tanks is caused by leaving fuel tanks low at the end of the day. The fuel gets hot when running. At the end of the day it cools off and sucks in air from outside. That air can have quite high moisture levels which accumulate over time. On larger bulk tanks you should put on a water vapour filter and on the machine itself just fill the tank at the end of the day. Another source used to be drum fuel. all ways store drums standing up, angled with a board or some such thing and always have the bungs at 3 and 9 oclock so rain water buildup can not be sucked in.
i think if you change your camshaft, you should go with new lifters. concerning the crank, i can tell it is a forged unit. still, it might make sense to have it magnafluxed to check for cracks. i would also suggest that all the connecting rods should be sent to the machine shop to be checked and resized with new sleeves installed, and purchase new rod pins as well. on the flip side, have you considered purchasing another used motor, as that might be the cheaper route?
definitely would recommend replacing the stretch head bolts. if they recommend it do it! not just one or two all of them! It's not a length problem,it's a stress thing with the bolts. everyone I ever heard of that did not replace the head bolts with new stretch bolts regretted it.
Matt turbo’s are amazing piece of machinery for the job they do,top quality oil,frequent servicing,filters = money in the bank,you need to think seriously about patenting that piston remover,all the best from Perth Australia 🇦🇺👌👌👌👌
@Pacificnorthwesthillbilly. Matt,I am an old guy of 80 who loves what you do,i and my family are up with the times,we are owners of teslas ,so up with tech.but i still love the old stuff,just a bit of insight into myself,don’t know about the telegram bit,all the best,Michael 🇦🇺👍👍👍👍👍
Yes they have chrome rings. The liners are very thin and are dry liners. If you look in the manual, they have a list in the back for the tools for rebuilding. Is the machine shop doing the liners? We used to put the liners in the freezer before we installed them. The liner diameters are measured in half thousandths (.0004") First you measure the bore with the liner removed, then you calculate what liner is needed. At one time, Isuzu used to print the bore size on the top of the block. The chrome on the liners wears out first. If you examine the top of the liner where you will get a ridge, you may notice grey spots. Those grey spots are where the chrome has worn off and the steel underneath is showing through. You will need a special tool to get the liners out. Triple check the tool as you pull the liner to be sure it is seated properly against the edge of the liner. I have seen more than one block ruined by not having the puller tool installed incorrectly. These days they are making a generic replacement liner: one size fits all. The original liners were an improvement as the close fit allowed for better heat tranfer into the water jacket.
Totally awesome young man, thank you so much for taking the time to filming this marathon. Keep your chin up, no disappointment here for sure. Kindest regards from Bonnie Scotland. Joe.
Well, not really any surprises when you buy someone else's problems, it's to be expected. You'll catch a break once in a while and find equipment that was taken care of , but not often . 😊
Looks like it's had a hard life, do it right now and it will always look after you. Great content love the length of the episodes keep up the good work Matt 👌
Great job Matt, at least you found the source of the metal in the sample, a shame poor maintenance ruined a good engine, but it’s not too bad. Good to see Charlie looking well again, beautiful pup.
Forgot to mention it, but these are thin walled chrome-plated liners on this engine and are not meant to be re-honed.
Well that sucks. I know there are specialists that can machine out plasma arc transfer (harder than chrome lined…?) cylinder liners on certain automotive examples (ie. Nissan GTR R35, Ford GT500 5.4, Ford Gen 3 Coyote, etc). *BUT* I’m fairly certain those aren’t done on an individual job basis. And are small batch machining operations using a core exchange program.
Sooo probably not applicable and almost certainly not financially logical in your case.
Ummm LS swap?!😅
I watched you pulling that motor apart ,thinking no way I would tackle that . I look forward to more in your series
Awesome video can’t wait for the next video 😊
At least it has sleeves.
You are doing a good job trust your instinks
Cams and tappits are case hardened so when they start to show signs of wear they must all be replaced. New tappits on old cam lobes will destroy the lobes. I recommend replacing the cam and tappits as a set.
Also, rebuild the injection pump. I didn't catch if you where going to or not.
Do not just have redone injectors, what went through the injectors had to go through the pump first. The crap that tore up the injector tips, did a number on the pump plungers and bores.
Best wishes from the far North.
Why not have them reground then? They all looked to be in good enough shape that I’d think it would be worth a shot for the machine shop to try it. If there was damage then ya toss them. But the case hardening, as shallow as it is, is still deep enough to be ground once.
@@Mad.Man.Marine the lobes are already under spec, so grinding them is just going to make them even smaller. Plus, who knows how much of the case hardening is left after the wear. Could get into the "soft" core and things will wear down really fast and trash the engine.
@@Mad.Man.Marinewhy trash the engine on the off chance a cheap part is still good?
When you grind metal it heats it up and removes the hardening... you would have to re-harden all the lifters and the cam lobes and bearing surfaces.This would require special equipment that would cost many times what a new cam and lifter set would cost.@@Mad.Man.Marine
You and the guy from Farmcraft are beasts. No way I would ever tackle a job like this but I sure love watching you do it.
I know right? The things these two guys do with just basic tools and equipment is insane.
When you get into machines this size, you mostly need other large machines to work on them. So far that overhead crane has paid for itself. It was interesting to see the cab come off by the clearance measured with a micrometer.
Matt, things did go right. The oil analysis came back showing possible problems , you investigated the possible instead of ignoring it. Saved the block. Crank and other high dollar items which would have been destroyed if that piston had let go. Replace the camshaft and lifters cheaper now then down the road. You are too far into it not to replace it.
Well Matt, consider yourself lucky that cracked piston didn't grenade itself after you bought it.
I've seen that on some engines where a cracked piston was the culprit in destroying a block itself.
Not to mention the piston rod, main journals and pretty much the entire engine.
You're definitely developing into a very good diesel mechanic and old excavation equipment refurbisher.
Can't wait for the next episode and see how you're doing.
Especially how the block turns out.
Keep up the good work.
I love your videos to bits and back!
You are a fantastic presenter. Making no fuss with the engines and all the other stuff. No dissapointment on this side, just a great, peacefull entertainment.
Thanks a lot for letting us into your workshop and thanks for making great content.
I don't have a TV, youtube is my primary source of video entertainment and you are at the top of the creators with what you're doing here. Kudos!!!
Bronze = valve guides. usually. Babbitt bearings = journals, rods, usually tin/lead/copper alloy, could be a source of "bronze" in oil analysis.
Oil analysis is good if repeated on a periodic interval. Waiting 10 years and then looking wont tell you anything useful. Your best bet is to do what you're doing.. tear down, inspect, Replace as needed (IRAN).
carry on! :)
As overhauls go, this is not a bad one. It looks like you're well on your way to a great rebuild. Kinda envious. Wish I had one. :)
You might be able to take the fuel tank to a body shop and let them put it on their frame puller to get it mostly straightened out.
Be sure to fill that turbo with oil before use. Love the videos.
Just to agree with what others have said "new cam new lifters ". Great content, no disappointment here. Just to let you know from my perspective your luck is very good; great wife and kids great home and property, and a strong work ethic. As the old saying goes " be careful what you wish for "
Don't forget, "The Grass is always greener on the other side"....
Carlaustin excellent comments- as a long time viewer and fan of Matt’s meticulous work and attention to detail, I would opine that he creates his own “luck” by his determination and positive attitude! 👍I have pondered how I would really enjoy being able to be a free work assistant/apprentice for him…….. except for the weather! I’m a retired Dentist/contractor in SoCal 😃
@@RonaldMayDMD-nt3fd agreed 👍
@@additudeobxI prefer "the grass is greener where you water it"
I pee on my grass.
Good or bad, your diligence of getting right down to the bare bottom and checking every part is amazing. It would be so easy to shortcut a step, then have to go back to it a few years on. The perseverance showed on the dozer. But I get a feeling an engine rebuild is a cakewalk vs hydraulic control and electric harness replacement. Crossing fingers on the machine shop report!
Thanks Matt! You’re very calm, patient, and excellent at diagnosing problems. I look forward to future Matt with 1 million subscribers in a nice big barn garage with long runs of tables to spread parts out on! I don’t know how you put all that back together.😁
Hi Matt, great video as usual, re your timing marks on your left you had two teath marked C (creating a valley) and on the right you had one tooth marked C, the one tooth fits between or in the valley created by the two C's, This may sound strange, but every full 360deg rotation doesn't mean that all your marks will line up, I've just rebuild my DB990 and it took 17 full rotations to realign the marks, which is why they tell you once you've timed it in the rebuild do not rotated it untill you've got it all back together.
Charlie likes to get involved, it's great the way she lies there and just raises her eye browes
many thanks
Barry
thanks, good point!
Going through my time as an apprentice (50 years ago), one of my senior tradesmen told me, “if everything is going smoothly, go back and check your work.” Pulled me out of the pooh a couple of times.
Good job, thanks for posting.
I was setting here listening to your explanations to things only to see a commentary briefly explaining a difference in your thoughts coming across the screen and grinning because its a relief to know I am not the only who does that sort of thing. You stated that you were disappointed in some of the issues you finding in engine components and the cost of needing to replace them, and I commiserate with you on that, but I have witnessed guys trying to skate on not replacing components only to have catastrophic failures down the line, and true to your nature, doing things as right as you can as you always do, is one main reason I watch your channel sir, thanks for the update, enjoyed the video as always,
Good call Matt on replacing all pistons. Excellent video. So cool you are going through this thing.
Hi Matt some times when you have a close to empty tank of fuel, over night the water in the air inside the tank can condensate and build over time a substancial amount of water in the tank. Filling the fuel tank after work is a great practice to prevent this issue. Can't wait to se this machinew working. Keep the good work
Especially true for machines not used a lot. Always good practice to keep the tank mostly full for this reason.
If you end up getting new cam get new lifters. Those cam bearings along with cam bearing journals did not look good. Glad you are getting piston and liners complete. Wise choice. If your into it this much. Maybe magnaflux the crank? . Thanks for video.
Best teaching ever. I hope 1st cylinder of block is not cracked. I have 2 "Charlies" at home. I cannot living without them. Kind Regards/ Craig
no, no, no I disagree, last week's episode was not rubbish, I enjoyed seeing the cab come off and all the intracases, that's not spelt right, of all the fittings.
also glad that Charlie is still alive and did not die in the workshop. Great vid, quality workmanship, thank you.
I'm a little worried about that $70 turbo replacement wheel. Hope it works out OK. Keep up with the great content Matt.
That's the least of the worries - the pump is going to be the expensive bit......
At least it is reasonably accessible, plus he is not going to use the excavator for a living (all day, everyday), so maybe he will luck out. It is getting harder and harder to find US and Japan made parts anymore. NOS stuff is disappearing on the older iron.
If the turbo CHRA blows up it could take out the engine with it. The turbo is in-line with all of the engine fluid systems (intake, exhaust, coolant, and oil) so if the turbo grenades your engine is going to eat metal bits
@@einfelder8262 Area Diesel Services can do it for a reasonable price. Plus he could most likely get a bit off as a colab. ADS likes to put up videos where they repair YT'ers equipment.
I hope when you get the excavator going that you will have some videos of you clear the property by your pond and on your property Matt! The dozer and the excavator!
I hope that you won't regret cheaping out on the turbo cartridge...
I enjoy watching your videos! Thanks!
Great videos Matt, I really enjoy them. You forgot to mention the injection pump. You're sending that out for rebuild hopefully.
Checking and checking and checking for next video. AHHHHHHH. Love your channel now that you are doing an excavator. The dozer is something everyone does and doesn’t really draw my attention but when you do an entire excavator its gold. It’s just yu renewing everything and then prolly painting it at the end which will give you the most views you ever had. Love the channel please upload next part not sure how much longer I can wait lol 😊😊😊😊😊😊
You are an absolute pleasure to watch working and planning! Thank you!
In my humble opinion, it is obvious that this machine has NEVER had any serious effort at preventative maintenance. On systems that I've managed, the numbers in the analysis are distorted as contaminants accumulate instead of being flushed out by filter and fluid changes. I'll bet that someone bought this machine used and never did anything but crank it up and go to work. That's why so many good machines end up sitting abandoned. Trends in the measurements will reveal what's going to happen in the long and short run. You have a fan club here in Georgia.
Your luck must be the same as mine, because this is exactly how things always seem to go for me too. The up side is that, in the end you're going to have a much better end product, and you're going to know exactly what you have. Nice work Matt, great video as always!
Your channel is completely underrated in my opinion.
100K subs are obtainable and look forward to that day for you and the Shop Foreperson who always has your back ;)
I would also have the injection pump checked. With all the wear in the injectors there could be wear in the plungers, at least that was the way it was with my tractor. Love your videos!
I think you are right on how the ingress of water into the fuel tank occurred...are there replacement caps that do not have this "feature"?
Between you, John from Farmcraft101 & Andrew Camarata...I really get some excellent knowledge on these machines...thank you for bringing us along :)
Agree! South Main Auto and Watch Wes Work are really good too.
Best rebuild videos out there prove me wrong.😊
The engine is from a standing machine, unlike a road going machine like a truck, so you don't need to give it a near full overhaul. Piston #1 and its sleeve need renewing, sleeve #2, 3, and 4 would do with just a light hone. And renew all the rings, and this should give a balanced compression on all cylinders. The cam bearings, if cheap renew all otherwise just a polish on the rough one(s). The engine will get new, good oil, so the mating parts will just bed in with time.
Matt, your content is never a disappointment! I watch a ton of RUclips and your videos are some of the best! You're super thorough, meticulous, and you do a great job of explaining things that I know little or nothing about! Doing what you do in your work space is beyond impressive. I can't wait to see what this machine looks and runs like when you're done!
You and project farm are the only videos I acually look forward to watching when you all post.. keep up the good work. Love watching things get tore apart and rebuilt and refurbished..
One of my tasks as a QA guy in the engine plant of a large car company in the long distant past was checking the torque to yield machines were doing the job to spec. I had to take new fasteners, center drill both ends and measure the length with a ball end mike then run the fastener through the machine cycle and measure again to check the yield (stretch) using a new fastener for each spindle.
I doubt you will pick it up with a check on the shank diam with a mike.
When fasteners have been torqued to yield the material has been structurally changed by being plasticised. They should never be reused.
Enjoying the series keep 'em coming please.
Eric
Glad you bought the full kit of liners/pistons etc. It makes a lotta sense.
Just a tiny bit of advice. Get a set of 8 point sockets for square plugs, much better way to remove and install. Love your videos.
If you get a new cam, you need new lifters. You never did show the crank thrust bearings. How did those look?
they looked really good. This is just a guess, but I would thank there isn't nearly as much thrust running a hydraulic pump than you would see in a car
@@PacificNorthwestHillbilly Good point. I was thinking about how the governor acts on the engine under load.
Matt, I dont comment as much as I should but I sit watching the video feeling a bit under the weather. I just wanted to say thank you for doing these , I `ve watched all your vids and probably dont` appreciate how much goes into them so once again thanks and keep on entertaining us if you can .
Morning Matt,
Hang in there regarding setbacks. Me and the wife often refer to ourselves as the Hardaways as nothing comes easy it’s always the Hard Way!!!
Enjoying the video series.
I'm asking my physician for an Olanzapine prescription. Mostly because this stuff makes me dizzy and thinking about putting this back together makes me sick to my stomach. I can't put together IKEA furniture without having spare parts leftover. Good luck, Matt. #thoughtsandprayers
Awesome Matt 👍 Love this series.
A replacement part made in China? Have you got the spare to replace the new part that you've just bought? It's going to be more likely to fail catastrophically than it is to have a good working life! Before I forget thanks for doing these videos I really enjoy watching your work!
Nice teardown. I don't think you have bad luck... I think you saved yourself a pile of headache... no doubt that engine will be a nice runner when she's put back together.
I'm glad you stripped it down. The rebuild will give your channel more content. Hopefully you find all parts without too much expense.
I think your fuel cap theory is spot on. They probably left the tank low most of the time and that led to condensation. Ignored fuel filter changes. Some grit got in that engine somehow. Probably multiple ways.
I really like how you are so methodical and the detail you go into in explaining the procedures. I’m going to be rebuilding an old Kubota tractor my dad has and though it is a different brand than what you are rebuilding it helps me understand the process. Thanks!
Nice video again, great! According to my experience in other brand engines I would change the cam lifters. At least in Volvo engines that I've mostly worked with the case hardened lifters should be changed when ever there are any wear marks. Also it would a good idea to carefully check/rebuild the fuel injector pump while the engine is out of the excavator...
I hope your machine shop recommends new pistons wrist pins tappet’s cam / cam bearings . The rest looks good the cranky go’s ringy dingy it’s not stamped 10-20 thousand under anywhere so keep on givener eh.😂🤪 thanks Matt .😂👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Great vid. To bad the piston is cracked. I would replace the cam it is just too warn to work with considering you are basicly doing a rebuild. I have been a mechanic for many years and if you don't want to touch it ever again after the build its best practice to replace it.
You should not be disappointed with your progress Matt, I think you are doing great. Take your time and be thorough, you will never regret it. You are an awesome young man.
Art from Ohio
Just a suggestion Matt....On inline engines I usually turn the block so the cylinders are horizontal. Makes tapping the pistons out a bit easier and you don't have to worry so much about them dropping. Great vids though...don't stop now, you rock!
Good video Matt. I am never bothered by unfortunate discoveries. I've come to expect them in everything I do. Better to find them now, then half way through a reassembly. Just sorry yours will be so expensive. But at least you'll know you'll have a good engine when you're finished. Take care.
Hi Matt… I’m finding that your videos are always a great watch… you do some informative investigative work is that is good to know. Look forward to your next video.
You did the right thing Matt.. Better safe than sorry.. The machine shop will have the last word but as I see it you were very lucky with this cracked piston...All the other parts had reasonable wear.. So.. You may get out of this part with minimum expenses.. Which, gives me hope of an almost new engine.. Best wishes for it..
the diesel cap has a vent in it tank needs to breath
Patient and thorough,
As always matt , outstanding job performance! Your due diligence will pay off immensely !
Thanks for posting ! ❤😊❤👍
Matt, thats a great find (Piston). It meant that the teardown has proved worthwhile.
I think you're on the right track with the fuel diagnosis. And I'd venture to guess she had been overheated as well.
Sorry you have extra/ unanticipated costs in getting the engine the way you want. If I remember right you drove that thing out of where it was sitting. Amazing!!
As always, really look forward to and enjoy your videos!
Matt, morning... Impressive tear-down and description of parts etc... I really enjoy your videos... Thanks... Dave
Get new lifters if you do order the cam shaft... Measure the length of the bolts to determine the "stretch"... Get new bolts... If the stretch is "soft", you will not get the correct torque... The crank could loosen and old Matt would have to do this again or the crank could break... Old lifters will wear badly on a new cam...
Great work Matt. Nice to see Charlie making so many appearances too.
Great video and editing. I really appreciate not having to listen to free internet music on a loop while watching.
Great video...might be the time to face the music and do a complete rebuild...with all the other work you will eventually do on the hydraulics and electrical systems...you will have a great machine...
You are a brave man. There are so many parts. I feel bad that you found problems with the engine. I get the feeling that engines were not meant to be taken apart but it is something beyond my ability. I sure hope that the repairs will not go over budget. It sounds like you will have a new machine when you are done. It sort of sounds like it was on its way to the grave. It is to bad that they did not take better care of it before you got it. Now it will get the love that it needs. Thanks for the video. You do a nice job.
This thing will be running like a brand new rig when you get done with it. Really enjoying the video man. After this project, you need a really good dump truck and heavy duty trailer to haul this stuff around.
Go through that injection pump...!!!
Every time something doesn't go well for you it makes for better video for us!!! 🤣
Do it right and you'll never be sorry..You got this..I've been watching for quite a while , and i'm sure you'll get it right..love this channel
Fellow hillbilly pay the price once. Get new pistons rings all berings tappets pump rebuild everything. One old part can turn a rebuild into 2 disastrous rebuilds and double the work. 👍respect
Keep in mind the cam only turns at half the crankshaft. Would probably go a long time yet as it is.
Idler gear is probably a non hunting gearset so marks will likely line back up after so many revolutions. You’re balancing budget vs what absolutely needs to be replaced and its never an easy call. Myself Id probably change all 4 pistons for peace of mind.
Non-hunting = having a prime number a teeth, so the same pair of teet only engage every N1times N2 revolutions , for instance 37x41=1547 revolutions.
better to rebuild it before it blows up. its a good investment .
Learning all the time Matt thanks so much for sharing your knowledge 🦘
The dog's really enjoying your company.
Good to see you aren't afraid to spend the money to do this right. Nice Z in the garage, will have to check and see if you have done any video's on it.
Reminds me of rebuilding my Isuzu G-180 for my '77 Chevy LUV.
Good times.
@29:20 Cool jump edit sequence. 👍👍👍
hi mat, looking like its had a maintenance free life, and you've put your head down the rabbit hole, lets hope you find your way out , good luck,
If your going to replace 1 piston for a crack,replace all would be best thing to do, also those are full floating pins. rod bushing “worn” piston is worn. Replace camshaft and lifters Great job as always ps have the injector pump gone through
Another awesome Matt. There are some excellent comments here on the specifics of rebuilding. I suspect you will take them all in. I would tend to heed the warning/caution about that “chinesium” turbo cartridge (somebody mentioned it being a Subaru turbo, so probably easy to find a better quality one).
Great video,
Thank you sir.
The usual source of water in tanks is caused by leaving fuel tanks low at the end of the day. The fuel gets hot when running. At the end of the day it cools off and sucks in air from outside. That air can have quite high moisture levels which accumulate over time. On larger bulk tanks you should put on a water vapour filter and on the machine itself just fill the tank at the end of the day.
Another source used to be drum fuel. all ways store drums standing up, angled with a board or some such thing and always have the bungs at 3 and 9 oclock so rain water buildup can not be sucked in.
I'm watching it for the second time while waiting for the next episode
The cap has to let air inside the fuel tank or the fuel could not drawn through
i think if you change your camshaft, you should go with new lifters. concerning the crank, i can tell it is a forged unit. still, it might make sense to have it magnafluxed to check for cracks. i would also suggest that all the connecting rods should be sent to the machine shop to be checked and resized with new sleeves installed, and purchase new rod pins as well. on the flip side, have you considered purchasing another used motor, as that might be the cheaper route?
definitely would recommend replacing the stretch head bolts. if they recommend it do it! not just one or two all of them! It's not a length problem,it's a stress thing with the bolts. everyone I ever heard of that did not replace the head bolts with new stretch bolts regretted it.
love your videos! You always seem to find the problem and decide what is the best direction to go. Keep up the great videos and great work!,
Matt turbo’s are amazing piece of machinery for the job they do,top quality oil,frequent servicing,filters = money in the bank,you need to think seriously about patenting that piston remover,all the best from Perth Australia 🇦🇺👌👌👌👌
@Pacificnorthwesthillbilly. Matt,I am an old guy of 80 who loves what you do,i and my family are up with the times,we are owners of teslas ,so up with tech.but i still love the old stuff,just a bit of insight into myself,don’t know about the telegram bit,all the best,Michael 🇦🇺👍👍👍👍👍
Tell you what matt you have some balls taken that job on well done sir 👏 👍
Yes they have chrome rings. The liners are very thin and are dry liners. If you look in the manual, they have a list in the back for the tools for rebuilding. Is the machine shop doing the liners? We used to put the liners in the freezer before we installed them. The liner diameters are measured in half thousandths (.0004") First you measure the bore with the liner removed, then you calculate what liner is needed. At one time, Isuzu used to print the bore size on the top of the block. The chrome on the liners wears out first. If you examine the top of the liner where you will get a ridge, you may notice grey spots. Those grey spots are where the chrome has worn off and the steel underneath is showing through. You will need a special tool to get the liners out. Triple check the tool as you pull the liner to be sure it is seated properly against the edge of the liner. I have seen more than one block ruined by not having the puller tool installed incorrectly. These days they are making a generic replacement liner: one size fits all. The original liners were an improvement as the close fit allowed for better heat tranfer into the water jacket.
I'm having the machine shop do it, easy for him since he has all the proper tools for it.
Totally awesome young man, thank you so much for taking the time to filming this marathon. Keep your chin up, no disappointment here for sure. Kindest regards from Bonnie Scotland. Joe.
Replace thie headbolts, stretch itself isn't the symptom, metal fatigue could be the issue when reused.
You can shim the spring on the oil pump with stainless steel washers to gain some psi but I wouldn't do more than one or two washers
Great Video.
No disappointment.
Well, not really any surprises when you buy someone else's problems, it's to be expected. You'll catch a break once in a while and find equipment that was taken care of , but not often . 😊
Looks like it's had a hard life, do it right now and it will always look after you. Great content love the length of the episodes keep up the good work Matt 👌
Disassemble and measure up all wear surfaces !
Keep up the good work Matt.
You are saving yourself headaches down the road.
Great job Matt, at least you found the source of the metal in the sample, a shame poor maintenance ruined a good engine, but it’s not too bad. Good to see Charlie looking well again, beautiful pup.