Hi there Leopard, I'm just building at the moment etched brass wagons and the W irons go up behind the solebars. Maybe that is why you have that extra 1mm ? The 'daylight' to the top of the spring looks too muck from here in Bucks. Not criticising your mind boggling work, just an observation. - cheers Bernard
the newer model does have the W Iron behind the solebar, until I got the drawings I didn't realise that. the extra 1mm (or so) is basically the W Iron not being mounted high enough, drawing had a lot of measurements but not the full height.. live and learn etc. all observations welcome, the model as I printed it has "flaws"... I need to correct things before the sixth iteration needs to sort this
That wagon looks terrific. I would have thought you would have been able to print more defined stiffeners on the cabin The bricks came out great. Very cool looking chassis, that will do ! from a 2’-0 perspective What caused 3 to warp? Oops! .A coat of paint would make it look great. Well done!
the cabin printing in layers caused the problems, not tried that in resin. could have been better printing four sides individually flat and then gluing together. and the 2' or 3' test is the goal, especially once painted with a bit of weathering, just need to rescale it a bit with pin point bearings they roll really nicely (needs a bit of weight adding too) #3 warped as the bed is a bit thin, comes down to how the resin dries and cures, have had fun with model ships going like bananas, having the body on it helps a lot and yes paint will help a lot, likely will end up printing chassis and bodies individually, print the chassis in black and body in a colour suited to whatever it needs to be painted, resin comes in many colours. thanks for watching :)
Warping happens in all printing, FDM and Resin, it depends on the models orientation, when you print it, the longer layers or flat layers will warp easier, you can reduce it but you will never stop it. Rails of Sheffield did a 3D printed van a number of years ago, and they only have a life of 15 years, it will start to degrade due to the UV cured plastic, some roofs have failed already.
@@bluebellModelrailway its a known problem with UV cure resins, they need painting, as in painting totally, with something that blocks the UV totally. find with a lot of models it takes a few prints to get the supports right and thicknesses right to minimise the warping. Have done other 3d print projects, first ventures into model railway printing, all advice and comments more than welcome. Learn by following others many thanks for watching & commenting, very useful stuff
@aleopardstail having tried multiple things to block UV as it comes out any kind of light... As it's there on a spectrum. You again won't block it totally.. and it will eventually breakdown. Best advice I was given is 3D printing is a tool... That's it... It's for rapid prototyping not long life. Making things overly thick just looks awful... Use what's available as you will do someone else out of a job... Railway modelling is a hobby... With many cottage industries.. castings, etchings... Use them or lose them. So I tend to make the body shells as they are sturdy so truck bases and tops... And then use wire and etched and castings to make sure the wagon stays reliable and strong. You also have to take into account shrinkage all resins vary can be up to 5% which might also be why your wagon on the clip is a bit tight.
Nice video, only advice I will give you... don't try and print everything. Running gear, W irons, just use fold up brass, can't go wrong and it will be more durable... having been playing with printing since 2005 certainly learn, quickly what you can and can't do.
there are certainly more robust ways to do this, the etched brass kits are without a doubt more reliable, this was really just an experiment. I do need to get hold of some brass kits to experiment with, the ones that compensate one axle should also help a lot with less than perfect track *whistles innocently* there is no way the base resin would work as a bearing, and yes while there are brass bearings inserted here the rest of it while not exactly fragile (ABS like resin) is hardly going to last for ever so yes will give that a go many thanks for watching :)
Hi there Leopard,
I'm just building at the moment etched brass wagons and the W irons go up behind the solebars. Maybe that is why you have that extra 1mm ? The 'daylight' to the top of the spring looks too muck from here in Bucks. Not criticising your mind boggling work, just an observation. - cheers Bernard
the newer model does have the W Iron behind the solebar, until I got the drawings I didn't realise that.
the extra 1mm (or so) is basically the W Iron not being mounted high enough, drawing had a lot of measurements but not the full height.. live and learn etc.
all observations welcome, the model as I printed it has "flaws"... I need to correct things before the sixth iteration needs to sort this
That wagon looks terrific. I would have thought you would have been able to print more defined stiffeners on the cabin
The bricks came out great.
Very cool looking chassis, that will do ! from a 2’-0 perspective
What caused 3 to warp?
Oops!
.A coat of paint would make it look great.
Well done!
the cabin printing in layers caused the problems, not tried that in resin. could have been better printing four sides individually flat and then gluing together.
and the 2' or 3' test is the goal, especially once painted with a bit of weathering, just need to rescale it a bit with pin point bearings they roll really nicely (needs a bit of weight adding too)
#3 warped as the bed is a bit thin, comes down to how the resin dries and cures, have had fun with model ships going like bananas, having the body on it helps a lot
and yes paint will help a lot, likely will end up printing chassis and bodies individually, print the chassis in black and body in a colour suited to whatever it needs to be painted, resin comes in many colours.
thanks for watching :)
Warping happens in all printing, FDM and Resin, it depends on the models orientation, when you print it, the longer layers or flat layers will warp easier, you can reduce it but you will never stop it.
Rails of Sheffield did a 3D printed van a number of years ago, and they only have a life of 15 years, it will start to degrade due to the UV cured plastic, some roofs have failed already.
@@bluebellModelrailway its a known problem with UV cure resins, they need painting, as in painting totally, with something that blocks the UV totally.
find with a lot of models it takes a few prints to get the supports right and thicknesses right to minimise the warping. Have done other 3d print projects, first ventures into model railway printing, all advice and comments more than welcome. Learn by following others
many thanks for watching & commenting, very useful stuff
@aleopardstail having tried multiple things to block UV as it comes out any kind of light... As it's there on a spectrum. You again won't block it totally.. and it will eventually breakdown.
Best advice I was given is 3D printing is a tool... That's it... It's for rapid prototyping not long life.
Making things overly thick just looks awful... Use what's available as you will do someone else out of a job...
Railway modelling is a hobby... With many cottage industries.. castings, etchings... Use them or lose them.
So I tend to make the body shells as they are sturdy so truck bases and tops... And then use wire and etched and castings to make sure the wagon stays reliable and strong.
You also have to take into account shrinkage all resins vary can be up to 5% which might also be why your wagon on the clip is a bit tight.
Nice video, only advice I will give you... don't try and print everything.
Running gear, W irons, just use fold up brass, can't go wrong and it will be more durable... having been playing with printing since 2005 certainly learn, quickly what you can and can't do.
there are certainly more robust ways to do this, the etched brass kits are without a doubt more reliable, this was really just an experiment. I do need to get hold of some brass kits to experiment with, the ones that compensate one axle should also help a lot with less than perfect track *whistles innocently* there is no way the base resin would work as a bearing, and yes while there are brass bearings inserted here the rest of it while not exactly fragile (ABS like resin) is hardly going to last for ever so yes will give that a go
many thanks for watching :)