This video has given me such a huge rush of joy!! I was dreading this repair because i thought i would have to get a whole new wire harness and fuseblock. A damn faulty wire smh....years of random shut offs smdh! Thank you brother!! I am subscribing to the channel immediately!
Just replaced my fuse box on a 14 Chevy Traverse with same issue. Wish I would of watched this video and inspected terminals a little better. Why this is not recall from GM is what frustrates me. I slipped a small washer under the screw head and it keeps it from coming loose. Great vid.
If you still have your old fuse box it would be worthwhile to closely inspect that terminal. I feel fairly sure that you will find the same thing that I did. If so, I would recommend getting one of those wire leads and replacing as I did. Also lightly clean the new terminal on the new box before reassembling.
My 2014 Traverse did the exact same thing. It melted the fuse box around the Relay. I had to have the fuse box replaced. Fast forward 3 years later , my A/C fan started going on and off intermittently. I did the exact same thing, I made a couple of “C” Washers and slipped them under the Bolt Heads and everything tightened right up and my problem stopped!
well the stalling got really bad and no local shop was interested in the fix in the bulletin so i bought the parts myself and went to work under my carport as the storm passed and it went well. i have to say the hardest part was the white retainer, just take your time and it will release. the pin on the old fuse box was arching. replaced the wire and the box. so far so good and ill let you know if i have any issues. thank you for the video, i have been working on cars most of my life and it was very helpful! Sarasota Florida.
I have a 2012 Chevy Traverse that is pretty much the same. It's had the fuse box replaced but still getting error codes. I think the mechanic I took it to just slapped the new fuse box on top of the old burnt out terminals. How much would u charge for the work u did in this video? I'm considering doing it myself but I'm not good with detailed work like that.
There would be a lot of variables and it could be quite subjective. Probably the best case for you would be to bring in the wired terminal lead shown in this video and a link to the same. In that case a shop would need to charge about one hour of labor with no warranty given except that it was properly installed. On the other end of the spectrum, if you wanted a confirmed diagnosis and complete assessment of the wiring and fuse box conditions. Along with supplying a new fuse box, wired terminal lead and a guarantee that your problem would be fixed, it would be around 1k. Maybe more depending on the conditions encountered. I know that is a wide range but I hope it helps. Thanks for subscribing.
question- on my car they have the tighening bolts backwards. Like I see the end of the screw and have to loosen the nut and washer around it. Could this be my problem also? I know they are aftermarket screws, and they said they are discontinued. So what could I do to get it going?
@@hotmama2410 If you are on a PC there should be a picture of a camera with a plus sign on it. If you hover over it, the word "create " should pop up. Click on it and follow the instructions. That will allow you to upload a video. You can also go to my website www.sparkys-answers.com . Once there you would need to create an account and then use the "Ask a Question" tool to ask the question there and there is a place to upload a picture. It will not allow a video upload. From your description I would assume that someone "thought " they knew what the problem was and how to fix it. Your repair would wind up being basically the same as in my video except that it will be a little bit more difficult to connect the fuse box to the harness connectors underneath it. You will need to hold the fuse box up and manually put the harness connectors into the mating receptacles on the bottom of the fuse box. Then while holding it all in place, you will have to assemble the bolt, washer and nut together to and tighten it all together. All of this would be after replacing the wired lead and cleaning the fuse box terminals.
The absolute best repair anytime there are burnt terminals is to replace both with brand new. The terminal in the fuse box is not replaceable except for replacing the entire fuse box. Additionally, I did not have any information at that time that the terminated wire had been redesigned to switch the major contact area to the opposite side of the fuse box terminal. That was something I discovered through actually doing this repair and making the video. Additionally , the customer was tired of dealing with this issue. They also did not want to allow enough time for me to order and install the terminal, evaluate the repair, possibly have to order the fuse box anyways and wait more days for the repair to be completed. They just wanted it done and over with. From my understanding, they had been dealing with this problem for about a year before arriving at my shop.
Great video!!! Questions have the same issue with my vehicle, once you finished repair did you have to do any reprogramming to the vehicles computer system?
There should be no reprogramming to be done. There may need to be a relearn of the up and down stops in the power windows if they have the auto feature. After everything is all back together, turn the ignition on. Lower the front windows all the way down and hold the switch for an additional 3 to 5 seconds. The fully raise the window and again hold the switch in the up position for an additional 3 to 5 seconds. Do the same thing t the other front window. Codes may be stored in various systems. They should clear on their own or you can use a scan tool to clear them.
Have a 2014 traverse with a no start condition, before that, trac control would go on and off and it would go into limp mode, pulled the fuse box and the exact same pin as the one in the video looks almost exactly the same with the burn mark, but the connector seemed to look fine to me, would it be safe to assume the fuse box is bad?
Something I noticed during the repair is the the new terminated wire has the primary contact on the opposite side from the original. This allows for better contact on the undamaged side of the fuse box terminal. In hindsight, I think cleaning the fuse box terminal and installing a new updated terminated wire would be adequate in many cases. You would have to be the judge of your situation. On the other hand it is hard to go wrong with all new parts.
@@SparkysAnswers does the new terminated wire require any special tools to remove and install? And so the new one makes contact on the opposite side of the old on?
@@jakedavis1820 At the 12:55 mark I show the tool I used to remove the old terminal from the harness connector. It is part of a kit. The kit is kind of pricey. amzn.to/4avQdu7 You could possibly use a heavy stick pin or modify a heavy paper clip.
Thanks so much for the detailed video. One question you said the lead wire makes contact with the fuse box pin on the opposite side. Did the TSB tell you what way to insert the pin/socket into the connector housing?? Or did you just turn it around to match the rest of them
Actually neither. After splicing the wire lead into the harness i attempted to install it into the connector cavity aligned the way I took the old one out. It would not fit. So I had to turn it around 180 degrees to get it to fit in the cavity and lock in place. I had a spare lead at the time and closely examined it. That is when I realized that the bulk of the contact area of the new terminal was on the opposite side of the major damage on the fuse box pin. If you are going to install just the terminated lead and not the fuse box, I strongly recommend thoroughly cleaning the fretting (arcing residue) from the fuse box pin.
Not 100% sure the fuse boxes are all the same or not but the TSB listed in the video description says the repair covers 2013 through 2017. So I would think the terminated lead would be the same for all of those year, makes and models.
From a local GM dealership but they are also available on line if you don't have a dealership nearby. The part number is listed in the description to this video.
Yes, it did. Can't say 100% it is the cause of your issue but it would be highly likely. Also, it only takes about 15 to 30 minutes to disassemble and inspect the terminals. If you just replace the wired terminal lead and thoroughly clean the fuse box terminal it will be about a $15 to $20 repair. Assuming you do it yourself.
Amazing video!!! I have the same problem in my Acadia 2014 Denali and I’ve changed the throttle body and the canister purge valve and the stability track issue continues, with engine power reduction. I’ll try this solution. What is the OEM code for the Fuse Box you replaced? Did it come with all the fuses on it or did you buy the empty fuse box then you install the fusses? Could you share the link where you bought the fuse box w/fuses? Thanks…
The fuse box and wire lead were both purchased from a local GM dealership. The wire lead is part number 84757974 and can be bought locally or searched for online. The fuse box number for your vehicle needs to be identified using your vehicle VIN. Once you have the part number you can source out the best buying option for you. The fuse box does come fully loaded with fuses and relays as shown in the video. it does not come with a new cover. As I have mentioned to others, in hindsight I think there is a reasonable chance that just replacing the wire lead and cleaning the terminal could be an acceptable repair. I normally do not say that but in this case, there is a reason. The replacement lead's major contact point is on the undamaged side of the fuse box terminal. This statement is dependent on visual inspection of the terminal and confirming that there is only damage to the one side as shown in this video. You must also thoroughly clean (scrape) the damaged area of the terminal. Of course you can never go wrong with all new parts either.
GM TSB #19-NA-276: Potential Reduced Engine Power Message Displayed and/or Engine Stall with DTCs P1682 and/or P0689 Set - (Dec 12, 2019) PART: GM #84757974 WIRE KIT, SPLICE YOURS IS THE ONLY VIDEO REGARDIN P1682 THAT GOT THE FIX RIGHT!! (Only, I would recommend disconncting the battery!) The TSB calls for replacing the lead/wire at cavity 51, but does not call for replacing the fuse box. I replaced the terminal and wire, but cleaned the pin on the fuse box without replacing the fuse box. The new terminal is a whole different design to the old one. I also found the same condition for the pin and lead at terminal cavity 51, just as descrined in the TSB. Great video!!
Thanks for the comment. The Preliminary Information Test PIT 5643 called for replacing the fuse box if arcing damage was found. The biggest reason for me replacing the fuse box was because the owner was royal PITA and I would be happy enough to never have her in the shop again. I have answered back in most of my replies that I did not think it was necessary to replace the fuse box since the new design terminal mostly contacts the undamaged side of the fuse box terminal.
This video has given me such a huge rush of joy!! I was dreading this repair because i thought i would have to get a whole new wire harness and fuseblock. A damn faulty wire smh....years of random shut offs smdh! Thank you brother!! I am subscribing to the channel immediately!
Glad to hear this video brought you some joy. Welcome on board.
Just replaced my fuse box on a 14 Chevy Traverse with same issue. Wish I would of watched this video and inspected terminals a little better. Why this is not recall from GM is what frustrates me. I slipped a small washer under the screw head and it keeps it from coming loose. Great vid.
If you still have your old fuse box it would be worthwhile to closely inspect that terminal. I feel fairly sure that you will find the same thing that I did. If so, I would recommend getting one of those wire leads and replacing as I did. Also lightly clean the new terminal on the new box before reassembling.
fr i got the same promble i have a 2016 chevy travres this car costing me to much moeny i bet alos for a lot of other people
@@JonathanAbell-oh7gd Once they get some age and miles on them they do start to have quite a few issues.
My 2014 Traverse did the exact same thing. It melted the fuse box around the Relay. I had to have the fuse box replaced. Fast forward 3 years later , my
A/C fan started going on and off intermittently. I did the exact same thing, I made a couple of “C” Washers and slipped them under the Bolt Heads and everything tightened right up and my problem stopped!
well the stalling got really bad and no local shop was interested in the fix in the bulletin so i bought the parts myself and went to work under my carport as the storm passed and it went well. i have to say the hardest part was the white retainer, just take your time and it will release. the pin on the old fuse box was arching. replaced the wire and the box. so far so good and ill let you know if i have any issues. thank you for the video, i have been working on cars most of my life and it was very helpful! Sarasota Florida.
Glad to hear the video helped. Thanks for pointing out the difficulty with the retainer and for commenting.
Finally a good detailed video!! Great video!! Thank you!! I have a problem with the AC fan relay melted around on the fuse box.
Glad you like the video.
I have a 2012 Chevy Traverse that is pretty much the same. It's had the fuse box replaced but still getting error codes. I think the mechanic I took it to just slapped the new fuse box on top of the old burnt out terminals. How much would u charge for the work u did in this video? I'm considering doing it myself but I'm not good with detailed work like that.
I subscribed btw, love this video, I didn't know about the orange indicator that pops up when the 2bolts are tightened. That's a huge help 👍👍
There would be a lot of variables and it could be quite subjective. Probably the best case for you would be to bring in the wired terminal lead shown in this video and a link to the same. In that case a shop would need to charge about one hour of labor with no warranty given except that it was properly installed.
On the other end of the spectrum, if you wanted a confirmed diagnosis and complete assessment of the wiring and fuse box conditions. Along with supplying a new fuse box, wired terminal lead and a guarantee that your problem would be fixed, it would be around 1k. Maybe more depending on the conditions encountered.
I know that is a wide range but I hope it helps. Thanks for subscribing.
Great video! Thank you for your attention to detail and explanation
Glad you liked it. Thanks for commenting.
question- on my car they have the tighening bolts backwards. Like I see the end of the screw and have to loosen the nut and washer around it. Could this be my problem also? I know they are aftermarket screws, and they said they are discontinued. So what could I do to get it going?
Need to know what kind of vehicle you have? Also a picture is worth a thousand words. Could you upload a short video showing what you have?
@@SparkysAnswers GMC Acadia 2014, I can't see to upload a picture.
@@hotmama2410 If you are on a PC there should be a picture of a camera with a plus sign on it. If you hover over it, the word "create " should pop up. Click on it and follow the instructions. That will allow you to upload a video. You can also go to my website www.sparkys-answers.com . Once there you would need to create an account and then use the "Ask a Question" tool to ask the question there and there is a place to upload a picture. It will not allow a video upload.
From your description I would assume that someone "thought " they knew what the problem was and how to fix it. Your repair would wind up being basically the same as in my video except that it will be a little bit more difficult to connect the fuse box to the harness connectors underneath it. You will need to hold the fuse box up and manually put the harness connectors into the mating receptacles on the bottom of the fuse box. Then while holding it all in place, you will have to assemble the bolt, washer and nut together to and tighten it all together. All of this would be after replacing the wired lead and cleaning the fuse box terminals.
not understanding why u replaced the fuse box? why not just the fuse and wire.
The absolute best repair anytime there are burnt terminals is to replace both with brand new. The terminal in the fuse box is not replaceable except for replacing the entire fuse box. Additionally, I did not have any information at that time that the terminated wire had been redesigned to switch the major contact area to the opposite side of the fuse box terminal. That was something I discovered through actually doing this repair and making the video. Additionally , the customer was tired of dealing with this issue. They also did not want to allow enough time for me to order and install the terminal, evaluate the repair, possibly have to order the fuse box anyways and wait more days for the repair to be completed. They just wanted it done and over with. From my understanding, they had been dealing with this problem for about a year before arriving at my shop.
Great video!!! Questions have the same issue with my vehicle, once you finished repair did you have to do any reprogramming to the vehicles computer system?
There should be no reprogramming to be done. There may need to be a relearn of the up and down stops in the power windows if they have the auto feature. After everything is all back together, turn the ignition on. Lower the front windows all the way down and hold the switch for an additional 3 to 5 seconds. The fully raise the window and again hold the switch in the up position for an additional 3 to 5 seconds. Do the same thing t the other front window. Codes may be stored in various systems. They should clear on their own or you can use a scan tool to clear them.
Have a 2014 traverse with a no start condition, before that, trac control would go on and off and it would go into limp mode, pulled the fuse box and the exact same pin as the one in the video looks almost exactly the same with the burn mark, but the connector seemed to look fine to me, would it be safe to assume the fuse box is bad?
Something I noticed during the repair is the the new terminated wire has the primary contact on the opposite side from the original. This allows for better contact on the undamaged side of the fuse box terminal. In hindsight, I think cleaning the fuse box terminal and installing a new updated terminated wire would be adequate in many cases. You would have to be the judge of your situation. On the other hand it is hard to go wrong with all new parts.
@@SparkysAnswers does the new terminated wire require any special tools to remove and install? And so the new one makes contact on the opposite side of the old on?
@@jakedavis1820 At the 12:55 mark I show the tool I used to remove the old terminal from the harness connector. It is part of a kit. The kit is kind of pricey. amzn.to/4avQdu7 You could possibly use a heavy stick pin or modify a heavy paper clip.
Thanks so much for the detailed video. One question you said the lead wire makes contact with the fuse box pin on the opposite side. Did the TSB tell you what way to insert the pin/socket into the connector housing?? Or did you just turn it around to match the rest of them
Actually neither. After splicing the wire lead into the harness i attempted to install it into the connector cavity aligned the way I took the old one out. It would not fit. So I had to turn it around 180 degrees to get it to fit in the cavity and lock in place. I had a spare lead at the time and closely examined it. That is when I realized that the bulk of the contact area of the new terminal was on the opposite side of the major damage on the fuse box pin.
If you are going to install just the terminated lead and not the fuse box, I strongly recommend thoroughly cleaning the fretting (arcing residue) from the fuse box pin.
Excellent video and explanation! Thanks a lot.
Glad you liked it. Thank you.
I have a question, would that part fit on a 2013 Gmc Acadia?
Not 100% sure the fuse boxes are all the same or not but the TSB listed in the video description says the repair covers 2013 through 2017. So I would think the terminated lead would be the same for all of those year, makes and models.
Where were you able to order the new fuse box?
From our local GMC dealership.
Where did you buy the terminal with the cable?
From a local GM dealership but they are also available on line if you don't have a dealership nearby. The part number is listed in the description to this video.
where are you located
Near Charleston, South Carolina
Did this fix the problem? I have the same codes and issue.
Yes, it did. Can't say 100% it is the cause of your issue but it would be highly likely. Also, it only takes about 15 to 30 minutes to disassemble and inspect the terminals. If you just replace the wired terminal lead and thoroughly clean the fuse box terminal it will be about a $15 to $20 repair. Assuming you do it yourself.
Amazing video!!! I have the same problem in my Acadia 2014 Denali and I’ve changed the throttle body and the canister purge valve and the stability track issue continues, with engine power reduction. I’ll try this solution. What is the OEM code for the Fuse Box you replaced? Did it come with all the fuses on it or did you buy the empty fuse box then you install the fusses? Could you share the link where you bought the fuse box w/fuses? Thanks…
The fuse box and wire lead were both purchased from a local GM dealership. The wire lead is part number 84757974 and can be bought locally or searched for online. The fuse box number for your vehicle needs to be identified using your vehicle VIN. Once you have the part number you can source out the best buying option for you. The fuse box does come fully loaded with fuses and relays as shown in the video. it does not come with a new cover.
As I have mentioned to others, in hindsight I think there is a reasonable chance that just replacing the wire lead and cleaning the terminal could be an acceptable repair. I normally do not say that but in this case, there is a reason. The replacement lead's major contact point is on the undamaged side of the fuse box terminal. This statement is dependent on visual inspection of the terminal and confirming that there is only damage to the one side as shown in this video. You must also thoroughly clean (scrape) the damaged area of the terminal.
Of course you can never go wrong with all new parts either.
GM TSB #19-NA-276: Potential Reduced Engine Power Message Displayed and/or Engine Stall with DTCs P1682 and/or P0689 Set - (Dec 12, 2019)
PART: GM #84757974 WIRE KIT, SPLICE
YOURS IS THE ONLY VIDEO REGARDIN P1682 THAT GOT THE FIX RIGHT!! (Only, I would recommend disconncting the battery!)
The TSB calls for replacing the lead/wire at cavity 51, but does not call for replacing the fuse box. I replaced the terminal and wire, but cleaned the pin on the fuse box without replacing the fuse box. The new terminal is a whole different design to the old one.
I also found the same condition for the pin and lead at terminal cavity 51, just as descrined in the TSB.
Great video!!
Thanks for the comment. The Preliminary Information Test PIT 5643 called for replacing the fuse box if arcing damage was found. The biggest reason for me replacing the fuse box was because the owner was royal PITA and I would be happy enough to never have her in the shop again. I have answered back in most of my replies that I did not think it was necessary to replace the fuse box since the new design terminal mostly contacts the undamaged side of the fuse box terminal.