Nice technique on preloading the spring. Just completed my CB600F-5.... wish there was a Honda guy (read tecnical specs) to define the exact spring preload amount. Thank you. Hope you have many more miles of fault free travel.
Not only happens on VFR's, all CBR's suffer the same thing, I got a CB1100SF and a XX Blackbird and the rattle noise came up too, I did not rebuild the CCT's instead I installed a manual cam tensioner on both of my bikes and the problem was solved for ever, thanks for your video, it is great and it helps a lot too.
Thanks for this guide! Worked like a charm! I did this to my friend's 08 cbr600 and soon to my 06 cbr1000. The factory windings are different to your VFR800. The CBR 600 has 7-8 turns as factory turns. Increased it to 10 and drilled the gasket out to 2mm.
Glad I found this. I just bought an 07 vfr800 with 26 K miles, and everyone is telling me to replace the cct's at 30k. Had no idea they ditched the gear drive system for that generation when I bought the bike.
I assume if you want to fix one of these rather than replace it, one probably will need to replace the spring eventually - is that correct? Seems like the most likely thing that would fail. If so, what kind of spring is it? Something hard to find?
So If I am understanding this right... you essentially pre loaded the spring with 9 turns in total...? Is that right? Is there a reason you did this? I have a vfr800 and it's just started making a horrible clacking noise so wanted to investigate the cam chain tensioners first.
Good information! I've heard about this also being done on Honda ATV's with auto tensioners. The one thing I would caution you about is not to put too much extra spring tension on the adjuster. That will put extra spring pressure on the cam chain and may cause unnecessary chain stretch. In the ATV forums, they only recommended an extra 2 turns. Thanks for sharing your ideas!
that was a great video, i recently purchased a 2003 vtr1000f and the first thing i was told was to get rid of the stock cam chain adjuster because they have been known to fail. now the bike is about 17 years old but only has less than 7000 miles on it. my question is, do i need to replace or rebuilt the stock set up, or do what everyone is saying and buy aftermarket adjusters.
I know from what I've heard on the motorcycle forums if the spring breaks it won't bent valves on VFR's only make chain noise but will destroy VTR engines if it occurrs. I notice also that the VTR's don't have a oil gallery in them like the VFR's.
Thanks a lot for the video! Whole operation took me 30 minutes, an everything was simple and easy. My tensioner bucket was specyfic, because, it has two holes by sides and there are two tabs in the plungers head which are preventing loosing it in engine. Anyway, thanks for awesome advice, works great!
Great video. But I have few more questions. I have 2003 vfr, with 58000 km - 36000 miles. 1. Do I have to rebuild the rear one to? 2. I rebuild the front one and I give it one extra turn (9 turns, while original has 8 turns). The heavy rattling sound is gone, but I can still hear the chain around 3000 - 5000 rpm. the rattling sound is not strong.
I forgot to update. I'd did the procedure. Luckily I have the owners manual for my 2006 vfr. Took me about 4 hours to tear it all apart,rebuild then put the bike back together.
So ive done this procedure 3 or 4 times on my 2006 vfr800. Lost count. Is there as far as you know, a limit? The bike has about 60,000miles on it. Im pretty sure it started making the cct knocking sound the last few weeks. But i might just leave it for now since its almost time to put it away for the winter. Do you think there is a service life on the tensioner after so many rebuilds? Thanks again.
Thanks for the video Macadventures, you just saved me lots of euros as the tensioners are around €120. Ok my understanding is its 4 turns collar down as starting position from a rebuild or factory setting. You need to lift the collar and do four turns to lengthen the tensioner so as to stop the cam chain from rattling. The video makes it sound like you are 'tightening' the tensioner which to my mind makes it sound like you are shortening it.
Leaving in the "cut" section actually made the video more educational. I'm at 30k and hear an occasional thump sound almost like something is banging on the fairing. Trying to decide on the problem being cst or clutch. Video I just saw earlier from a vfr with a cst problem and it sounded more like metal to metal clanging. That sound about right?
I have used paper clips to make tensioner tools before. You just take a paper clip and, using some needle nose pliers, bend it into roughly the shape of the factory tool leaving a short section of straight wire in line with the center of the tool as your handle. You can easily put it into place before pulling the tensioner, and after re-installation just take your needle nose pliers and pull it out. It's not durable, of course. You wouldn't be able to adjust the tensioner with it. But you can get more than a lifetime supply of them from a box of paper clips.
Thanks for the video, i just finished mine. I didn't drill out the gasket though as the hole in the push rod appears even smaller, and supposed the idea was not to have oil going through too fast so they limited flow at the gasket. Having said that i doubt enlarging it would starve anything else of oil at all. Thanks
Thanks for the video, my question is how many turns did you actually do? you said you were tightening spring when you unscrewed plunger which was about 4 turns (was hard to count) then you did another 4 or 5 turns with the screwdriver tool, are you only counting the turns with the screwdriver or are you also counting the plunger turns as well?
Mine started every 30,000 miles, after i got tired of buying new ones, a race mechanic told to use manual tensioners they have unlimited lifetime, it only takes an easy adjustment from time to time, it costs me 40$ a piece.
Thanks, I rebuit a spare I have. The current one on my bike the screw in the center behind the bolt (connected to tensioner arm) spins when the engine is running. Is this normal?What could cause that if not? Cheers
I have a 05 Cbr600rr how would you assemble it with having the motor still in bike with that screwdriver holding it locked it’s a tight spot to get in asbit is?
Great video and explanation. I also though my engine was on its way out and worried about $1000 bill. I've been looking everywhere just to see how to replace the tensioner and I came across your video. I'll be trying this today and hopefully it works well as you have shown. One thing though, it seems there are two tensioners on the vfr, does the other one need to be reset as well? Thanks.
Thanks for this video! My cam chain tensioner on my 05 CBR 600RR is giving me issues now. It has 43 000kms on it (26k miles) Would this procedure work the same for my bike? Also, but adding extra turns to the spring are you just increasing the tension in the spring so that it has a more reliable force when push down?
I should work on all Honda cam chain tensioners of that type. I just got back from a 8,500 mile trip across the country and no problems at all. The spring looses tension over time so this is a quick, cheap fix. I monitored it the entire trip and no changes in motor noise or engine running issues. Thanks for watching!
+MacADVentures awesome thats good to hear! I went and ordered the APE cam chain tensioner. The OEM tensioner in South Africa costs the quivalent of $130 whereas i got the APE for 80. I will keep the stock one though. In other videos and forums people set the motor to top dead center before removing the tensioner. Do you do this as well? Thanks for the reply!
no need you aren't doing anything but changing the tension, not moving the chain on the sprockets. Just don't turn the motor while it's out. Watch out for the bucket falling off the end of the tensioner. It's a pain to get. Cheers!
Thanks you @@UCReTkzODS_UWJKLKuuNEETA I did this yesterday based on your video. Very simple. The most difficult part is getting to them. No need to take off the throttle bodies as per the Haynes manual instructions. Just a couple of 90 degree twists and turns and it should come out easily enough, giving you a lot less overall work.
What goes wrong with these I thought it was mainly the piece that rides against the chain that went bad not the bit that pushes on it, is it just the spring wearing out? Also sounds like your editor didn't listen very well haha
You can break that small spring in tensioner, if you dont over tightened it-> too much pressure on Tensioner plastic ´arm´ -> some scratches (about 20k+ km)-> too loud (ratling chain)-> replace this plastic tensioner arm. Perfect setup is that you cant hear a chain slaping and your spring is low stressed
Not an actual rebuild tho is it ... just a simple strip & over tension the spring, which is always a short term fix as the chain has stretched allowing the CCT to extend far enough out & past its optimum working range & the spring tension is weak in this area, hence the chain often starts to rattle due to not enough CCT tension, even after this mod that's been around for 20 plus yrs, (it aint new folks) the tensioner plunger is still out in the weeds, even with an over tensioned inner spring, this mod does work, but it's no rebuild, no new parts fitted, nor is it a long term fix, the chain is still worn/stretched & needs replacing, tensioner then will be set in it's optimum working range, they're set with this spring tension for a reason, so the chain rattles & alerts you to the chain needing to be replaced.
Nice technique on preloading the spring. Just completed my CB600F-5.... wish there was a Honda guy (read tecnical specs) to define the exact spring preload amount.
Thank you. Hope you have many more miles of fault free travel.
Not only happens on VFR's, all CBR's suffer the same thing, I got a CB1100SF and a XX Blackbird and the rattle noise came up too, I did not rebuild the CCT's instead I installed a manual cam tensioner on both of my bikes and the problem was solved for ever, thanks for your video, it is great and it helps a lot too.
Thanks for this guide! Worked like a charm!
I did this to my friend's 08 cbr600 and soon to my 06 cbr1000. The factory windings are different to your VFR800. The CBR 600 has 7-8 turns as factory turns. Increased it to 10 and drilled the gasket out to 2mm.
Glad I found this. I just bought an 07 vfr800 with 26 K miles, and everyone is telling me to replace the cct's at 30k. Had no idea they ditched the gear drive system for that generation when I bought the bike.
I assume if you want to fix one of these rather than replace it, one probably will need to replace the spring eventually - is that correct? Seems like the most likely thing that would fail. If so, what kind of spring is it? Something hard to find?
So If I am understanding this right... you essentially pre loaded the spring with 9 turns in total...? Is that right?
Is there a reason you did this?
I have a vfr800 and it's just started making a horrible clacking noise so wanted to investigate the cam chain tensioners first.
Good information! I've heard about this also being done on Honda ATV's with auto tensioners. The one thing I would caution you about is not to put too much extra spring tension on the adjuster. That will put extra spring pressure on the cam chain and may cause unnecessary chain stretch. In the ATV forums, they only recommended an extra 2 turns. Thanks for sharing your ideas!
Great advice, that is the the prime reason l like to tinker, is to appreciate the inner workings of the engine as well as save money.
Thank you for uploading this video. I've just successfully rebuilt both of the camchain tensioners on my vfr with your instructions! 😎🤛
Thanks! Just done this for the front CCT, noise is gone. Put in fresh castrol oil and bike runs smooth again. thank you
that was a great video, i recently purchased a 2003 vtr1000f and the first thing i was told was to get rid of the stock cam chain adjuster because they have been known to fail. now the bike is about 17 years old but only has less than 7000 miles on it. my question is, do i need to replace or rebuilt the stock set up, or do what everyone is saying and buy aftermarket adjusters.
how do you know it won't be too stiff with the extra 4 turns priming the spring ?
I know from what I've heard on the motorcycle forums if the spring breaks it won't bent valves on VFR's only make chain noise but will destroy VTR engines if it occurrs. I notice also that the VTR's don't have a oil gallery in them like the VFR's.
Thanks a lot for the video! Whole operation took me 30 minutes, an everything was simple and easy. My tensioner bucket was specyfic, because, it has two holes by sides and there are two tabs in the plungers head which are preventing loosing it in engine. Anyway, thanks for awesome advice, works great!
Sweet, glad I could help out! Thanks for watching!
Great video. But I have few more questions. I have 2003 vfr, with 58000 km - 36000 miles.
1. Do I have to rebuild the rear one to?
2. I rebuild the front one and I give it one extra turn (9 turns, while original has 8 turns).
The heavy rattling sound is gone, but I can still hear the chain around 3000 - 5000 rpm. the rattling sound is not strong.
U need an award thank you
I forgot to update. I'd did the procedure. Luckily I have the owners manual for my 2006 vfr. Took me about 4 hours to tear it all apart,rebuild then put the bike back together.
Awesome, I'm glad it worked and far better than the $500 a dealer would charge. Glad my video could help!
So ive done this procedure 3 or 4 times on my 2006 vfr800. Lost count. Is there as far as you know, a limit? The bike has about 60,000miles on it. Im pretty sure it started making the cct knocking sound the last few weeks. But i might just leave it for now since its almost time to put it away for the winter.
Do you think there is a service life on the tensioner after so many rebuilds? Thanks again.
Can you explain me how many turns there are actually? From assembly he lost me, 3 turns then take out ..then 1 and halft, then 4...really lost.
Thanks for the video Macadventures, you just saved me lots of euros as the tensioners are around €120.
Ok my understanding is its 4 turns collar down as starting position from a rebuild or factory setting. You need to lift the collar and do four turns to lengthen the tensioner so as to stop the cam chain from rattling. The video makes it sound like you are 'tightening' the tensioner which to my mind makes it sound like you are shortening it.
Leaving in the "cut" section actually made the video more educational. I'm at 30k and hear an occasional thump sound almost like something is banging on the fairing. Trying to decide on the problem being cst or clutch. Video I just saw earlier from a vfr with a cst problem and it sounded more like metal to metal clanging. That sound about right?
I have used paper clips to make tensioner tools before. You just take a paper clip and, using some needle nose pliers, bend it into roughly the shape of the factory tool leaving a short section of straight wire in line with the center of the tool as your handle. You can easily put it into place before pulling the tensioner, and after re-installation just take your needle nose pliers and pull it out. It's not durable, of course. You wouldn't be able to adjust the tensioner with it. But you can get more than a lifetime supply of them from a box of paper clips.
How has this gone with time? How long did they last
Thanks for the video, i just finished mine. I didn't drill out the gasket though as the hole in the push rod appears even smaller, and supposed the idea was not to have oil going through too fast so they limited flow at the gasket. Having said that i doubt enlarging it would starve anything else of oil at all. Thanks
Thanks for the video, my question is how many turns did you actually do? you said you were tightening spring when you unscrewed plunger which was about 4 turns (was hard to count) then you did another 4 or 5 turns with the screwdriver tool, are you only counting the turns with the screwdriver or are you also counting the plunger turns as well?
how long is this suppose to last before reseting the tension again? how many miles have you put on your bike since redoing the tensioner?
Mine started every 30,000 miles, after i got tired of buying new ones, a race mechanic told to use manual tensioners they have unlimited lifetime, it only takes an easy adjustment from time to time, it costs me 40$ a piece.
Thanks, I rebuit a spare I have. The current one on my bike the screw in the center behind the bolt (connected to tensioner arm) spins when the engine is running. Is this normal?What could cause that if not? Cheers
Thank you so much for this video. I am going to attempt reloading both of them this weekend. Much appreciated.
I have a 05 Cbr600rr how would you assemble it with having the motor still in bike with that screwdriver holding it locked it’s a tight spot to get in asbit is?
One season after. 19000 km (11800 mile) working like a charm! Next update after one year.
Quick question - was there a screw at the top of the cam chain ? The part where you put the screw driver into? I have one on mine
yes it's a screw. you have to remove the screw. then you will be able to put the screw driver in the hole to retract the tensioner.
nice video.
will it works with CB600f ?
thank you
Great video and explanation. I also though my engine was on its way out and worried about $1000 bill. I've been looking everywhere just to see how to replace the tensioner and I came across your video. I'll be trying this today and hopefully it works well as you have shown. One thing though, it seems there are two tensioners on the vfr, does the other one need to be reset as well? Thanks.
Thanks, I just got back from an 8,500 mile trip across the US and no problems with it at all! Very happy! Thanks for watching!
Salve, la modifica va fatta in tutte e 2 i tendicatena? 🙏👍👋
Thanks for this video! My cam chain tensioner on my 05 CBR 600RR is giving me issues now. It has 43 000kms on it (26k miles)
Would this procedure work the same for my bike?
Also, but adding extra turns to the spring are you just increasing the tension in the spring so that it has a more reliable force when push down?
I should work on all Honda cam chain tensioners of that type. I just got back from a 8,500 mile trip across the country and no problems at all. The spring looses tension over time so this is a quick, cheap fix. I monitored it the entire trip and no changes in motor noise or engine running issues. Thanks for watching!
+MacADVentures awesome thats good to hear! I went and ordered the APE cam chain tensioner. The OEM tensioner in South Africa costs the quivalent of $130 whereas i got the APE for 80.
I will keep the stock one though.
In other videos and forums people set the motor to top dead center before removing the tensioner. Do you do this as well?
Thanks for the reply!
no need you aren't doing anything but changing the tension, not moving the chain on the sprockets. Just don't turn the motor while it's out. Watch out for the bucket falling off the end of the tensioner. It's a pain to get. Cheers!
Thanks you @@UCReTkzODS_UWJKLKuuNEETA I did this yesterday based on your video. Very simple. The most difficult part is getting to them. No need to take off the throttle bodies as per the Haynes manual instructions. Just a couple of 90 degree twists and turns and it should come out easily enough, giving you a lot less overall work.
Hi I was wondering if you had a video of how a bad cct sounds
is there anyway to remove the cct on cbr 954rr without lowering the engine??
Brilliant. I did this with yhe CCT on my Cbr1000RR 2012 model. Worked like a charm..
Matthys Harmse how many turns did u do?
What goes wrong with these I thought it was mainly the piece that rides against the chain that went bad not the bit that pushes on it, is it just the spring wearing out?
Also sounds like your editor didn't listen very well haha
thank you for that trick, I will try this tomorrow 😊
Hope it helps thanks for watching!
Thank you for this. Great information and very well done!
Thanks Han Brolo, this vid saved me bookoo dollas!
Thanks from Russia
can i adjust the camchain tensioner still fixed to the bike on my honda vfr 800 2006
Brilliant overwiev! Thanks mate..:-)
What if i over tightened it??
You can break that small spring in tensioner, if you dont over tightened it-> too much pressure on Tensioner plastic ´arm´ -> some scratches (about 20k+ km)-> too loud (ratling chain)-> replace this plastic tensioner arm. Perfect setup is that you cant hear a chain slaping and your spring is low stressed
Awesome mate thanks job done works 🏍🏍🏍👌
Not an actual rebuild tho is it ... just a simple strip & over tension the spring, which is always a short term fix as the chain has stretched allowing the CCT to extend far enough out & past its optimum working range & the spring tension is weak in this area, hence the chain often starts to rattle due to not enough CCT tension, even after this mod that's been around for 20 plus yrs, (it aint new folks) the tensioner plunger is still out in the weeds, even with an over tensioned inner spring, this mod does work, but it's no rebuild, no new parts fitted, nor is it a long term fix, the chain is still worn/stretched & needs replacing, tensioner then will be set in it's optimum working range, they're set with this spring tension for a reason, so the chain rattles & alerts you to the chain needing to be replaced.
Well done! Thank you!
Perfect man.
I cant believe this cost $80 to buy a new cct or a few minutes to twisting to rebuild it
Thank you very help
Sweet, glad I could help out! Thanks for watching!
Would this work on a Honda hornet?great video btw