Great solution for the poorly designed Sawstop overarm dust collector. The common theme seems to be that there really needs to be a separate dedicated dust collector system for the overarm, as you have mentioned here. Great video...super detailed...much appreciated.
I watched your video series on how to make these older table saws more dust friendly. You are right on the money with with the intent and design of the solutions and i will be incorporating at least 2 of the 4 solutions offered unto my own table saw. Where I get discouraged is the amount of time and effort (plus percieved inconvenience) i would have to spend on dust mitigation. The boom arm is awesome but i cant help thinking it will just get in my way. I admit its probably more me than anything else. I get annoyed with the safety guards on the blades too. But i've benefited from them immensely as i still have all 10 fingers still attached to my hand. Im likely going to forgo the boom arm and just where a dust mask while cutting and just deal with the dust coming off the top of the blade the good ol' fashioned way (broom, dust pan, shop vac and compressed air). The last year or 2 have made wearing a mask a non-issue where-as before i would not have even considered it. I also just realized you now have to have 3 machines running at the same time to use your tablesaw. My 15 amp breaker would not approve!
Interesting watch. I found the same thing is true. I use my collector for the bottom and the higher velocity shop vac for the over-arm. Nice clean design you did.
I just found you today, and will be working at incorporating several of your ideas into my shop. I struggle with good ideas, and need someone else to do some of the work so that my mods will work. I will come back and let you know when this comes together! THANKS
The video length is fine for me. I like the detail, and enjoy seeing how others deal with connections, screw placement, and alignments. I'm just setting up my shop, it will take the better part of a year, since I'm working on it as a weekend warrior. Also I tend to over complicate things, and get a better sense of what works by viewing what others have found to work, then adapting it to my situation. Dust is a major concern, as the shop will be adjacent to living space, and has open air access to the heating / cooling
+Edward Morai this would be a good jig for you to build if dust is a big concern for you since it is pretty much dustless. All the best with your new shop setup!
Nice. Glad you mentioned the dedicated vacuum for the blade. I would have tried to patch it into the bottom suction. I'll see what I can come up with to adapt to my saw. Thanks.
Great set up. What I wish you’d have explained in more detail is the attaching it through your dust cyclone unit. Like, how did you attach it? How did you seal it? and also, If someone had other tools using the dust cyclone unit, how would that table saw hose not affect the suction of the whole main line that feeds to other tools. Because you dont have any kind of blast gate or shut off going into the cyclone/dust devil unit. I do love the fact that you introduced the idea of the whole concept of having an alternative and more efficient way of splitting the lower and upper suction areas because I was just going to split a “Y” from one pipe to both.
The setup that I have has a 4" hose coming directly from the big Dust Deputy to the bottom of the table saw for the bottom collection and my Bosch dust extractor is connected directly to the over arm collector. I don't have a central dust collection system set up so I just connect to whichever machine I'm using. In this video the hose on the over arm is the stock Bosch hose but I have since changed it to a dedicated hose using pool hose.
This is great, thank you for the thorough instructions. One thought I had was some taller jigs may get in the way. I'm wondering if making the upper bar two pieces with a 12 inch wooden coupler in the middle and two twist knob fasteners to hold them together would work. Would give the flexibility to remove fixed arm of some sort of jig was causing problems.
Great, simple design. I had a Delta/Beisemeyer over arm collection kit on a saw that was very similar. Your homemade design would be much cheaper and just as effective. I am going to try it in our new shop, since my old hood is long gone.
Nice job, was looking around for ideas on a dust collection system in my shop finally.. and the last piece was needing an idea for the table saw. thank you very much.. keep up the great work.
Really like your video and the very well explanations. I’m going to make my version for my much smaller workshop where my primary work stations consist of workbench, job-site table-saw and miter saw. I’m going to try a dust collection with a ceiling pivot that can be rotated to serve all three stations.
No words to describe how much l love this design. Exactly what I needed. Thank you! Absolutely wonderful. BTW, your shop is far too clean. :) But very inspiring.
Thanks DP, I appreciate the detail of your overarm dust collection unit, Im still trying to find a way to bring a 4" flex tube to the over arm extractor with out buying something like the excaliber model...
Nice work, a simple but effective upgrade. Alternative to the flexible hose, you could try using some 2"/50mm PVC pipe along the boom arm - that'd rely on finding adapters (or even small lengths of flex hose) to/from the vac/saw shroud.
+Paul “TheWoodKnight” Jenkins thanks! That's a good idea to use some PVC pipe. If I used rigid pipe then that short piece of hose that I have would be enough to go from the pipe to the dust shroud. Thanks for the idea!
+Paul Jenkins I finally got around to implementing you suggestion and installed some clear pipe along with some short lengths of flexible hose. Works great and lets me have my dust extractor hose back. Thanks again for the suggestion. Here's a pic of what I came up with. instagram.com/p/BJyKulBB7vz/
I really enjoy your videos. You explain things very well and are very articulate. You have a soothing calm voice. I heard you mention that you build cabinets. Do you have any videos on the building of kitchen cabinets?
+Richard Shaw thanks. I don't have any cabinet construction videos at this point but it sounds like there is some interest in some so I'll add that to the list.
+DP Shop Talk great - thanks! I need to wall mount mine, so I will adjust to be about that distance. if you have the time, I would appreciate the measurements of the plexiglass pieces and the Baltic piece on the end of the arm.
+nyla bone the baltic piece is 5 5/8" wide by 7" tall. The inner piece of plexi is 5 5/8" wide by 7 3/8" tall and the outer piece of plexi that the shroud mounts to is 5 5/8" wide by 6" tall. Hope that helps.
I recently sub'd to your channel and I'm gradually working through your vids. I'm enjoying your pace and style. Very relaxed, matter-of-fact presentation. Not showy or gimmicky. Also, each of your vids shows me something I want to make use of. Keep up the good work.
Thank you for sharing this project in such a clear manner. I don't have a cyclone unit, just a single dust extractor vacuum, so I would have to split the 100mm/4in hose above and below the saw. Do you think I would get enough suction to the top shroud for it to all be effective? If possible, I don't want to get all the way to the end and find it barely works!
I've found that having two separate collection machines works the best for maximum suction. You could split off of one and it would be much better than no overarm collection but not quite as effective as two collectors.
Loved the video, great looking design, I was wondering about when you cut on the edge of the piece does it still collect that dust also. I know most over head collection when cutting a piece but doesn’t do well trimming edges. Will it still kick out dust, love your videos, thanks for your time.
Yeah if I cut along the edge of a piece then dust will still spit out the side. Sometimes in situations like that I use a magnetic dust chute placed just off to the side of the cut to collect that dust.
I really like your overarm dust collector. I'm going to start working on one for my saw. What is the distance from your saw top to the aluminum channel? Have you made a "how to" video of this build yet? Thanks for all the shop tips!
+Fran Kiko thanks. This is the only how-to video that I've made about the overarm. I haven't made an episode showing the actual making of the parts but I do show how they all go together in this video. I'll get that measurement for you next time I'm out in the shop since I'm working on site right now. If I forget and you don't hear back from me just email me at dan@danpattison.com to remind me.
+Fran Kiko I finally got a chance to get that dimension for you. From the top of the table saw top to the underside of the aluminum channel is 14". Hope that helps.
I'm very late to the comments, sorry. I love the idea and will build one myself. Curious as to why the hose attaches in the front side of the blade? Is it ever in your way? I think I'll flip mine 18p degrees so it hooks on the back side. Great video with great information!
+Richard Spencer thanks. The reason I went with the hose on the front is it lets the dust travel into the hose on its natural course being spit off the back of the blade. You could put the hose on the back but the dust would then have to change direction. Great question.
Very nice Dan, and a lot cheaper than some commercial alternatives! How do you handle the obstruction posed by the right vertical assembly for long pieces on the sled? Sorry if you already answered, didn't see it in the comments. Thanks.
+vahpr great question, I don't think anyone has asked that before. I find that typically when I'm building cabinets, most parts that I'm cross cutting are shorter than the distance from the blade to the vertical arm of the overarm dust collector so it's not usually an issue. If I am cutting a part that is longer I have two options. I can either have the longer length on the left side of the blade and still use the table saw or I just use my track saw to make the cut. Hope that helps.
Thanks Dan, thought that might have been how you handled it. I have frequent occasion to cut long (about 4') tubes on the sled with an aux fence, this operation works better on the right side, which was why I asked. Appreciate the reply!
Hi Dan, Not sure if this has been mentioned, but if I were to build this, I would actually run a PVC pipe inside the boom arm. Would mean less suction hose is needed and it is then out of the way.
That would be a good way to go. You would either have to increase the size of the aluminum arm or decrease the size of the PVC pipe. The only downside would be you couldn't see clogs in the line.
Before I embark on building this, I'm wondering if you're aware of any shortcoming with your plexiglass shroud because of its small radius. My saw is a standard 10", but without the experience of working with your design, my first thought is that a blade raised even just a little too high might render the DC head unusable for fear of tearing out more plastic to accommodate it. It does appear that the RA1175 shroud might work best on cuts that require minimal blade exposure. Aside from that concern, I must say this design is beautifully simple and exactly what I need.
I've never come across any issues with it myself. Most material that I cut is between 1/4" to 1" thick so I don't usually have the blade up super high. Whenever I raise the blade I raise the height of the dust shroud accordingly.
This is probably one of the best overhead dust collector I've seen. But a question...Do I block off the factory dust port in the back of my saw, or use that along with the overhead? Thank you. Again great project.
No you don’t block it off. The main purpose of the overhead collector is to prevent the majority of the dust that the bottom collector don’t catch from getting all over you , the floor and the top of the saw. Having both highly reduces dust spreading all over. If done correctly it greatly reduces shop cleanups after every cut. Hope this helps.😊
Good video presentation and process instruction. Unfortunately, you didn't show the saw in operation with the dust collection and it leaves me with a few questions/concerns. (1) The Bosh router collection shroud seems to be somewhat undersized for a 10" saw blade if you raise the blade over an inch or so. (2) The front hose exit is probably very effective since it is in line with the direction the dust is being thrown, but does seem to impede vision or access to the blade. Possibly, a right angle elbow between the shroud and the hose would allow the hose to exit on a more vertical angle. (3) I would like to see an arm that could swing out of the way to provide better access to the throat plate for blade changes, etc. (4) A design that would allow the shroud assembly to float up and down as the material if fed into the blade would improve dust collection and safety. (5) Your design provides dust collection but does not show other safety features that are often incorporated into over-arm units -- suck as riving knife/splitter(s) or pawls. Not to be critical of a very clean build, but to help others to refine this important function at the table saw.
If you watch the update to this video I show how it works with my cross cut sled and the ability to work with the sled is the main reason I kept the dust shroud smaller. It's definitely not intended to be a guard in any way. You could definitely make changes and tweaks to suit how you intend to use it.
No unfortunately I don't have a template available for the plastic mount. It would need to be somewhat custom depending on your saw and overarm construction.
+Josh Rice for dust collection, the back of the blade is most important to cover since it's the back of the blade that spits the dust out. Covering the back of the blade doesn't help with safety though in terms of a guard so keep that in mind.
Hi nice job! I highly appreciate the aluminum tube as the material for the arm, lightweight and sturdy. Although I have one concern: why the hose is facing towards the operator, blocking the view? I guess it would be more convenient to have it running straight up, or to the back.
Part of the reason that the hose faces forward is so that the sawdust spitting off the back of the blade has a more direct path into the dust hose. Straight up would be the next best option but that wouldn't work with the design of the Bosch router dust shroud that I used. If I was to run the hose to the back then the sawdust would have to basically change direction to go into the hose which I think would reduce the collection efficiency.
@@DPShopTalk I have only 4 inch pvc vac line and have no choice but to Y and run the 2 size hoses at the same time with a JET 1 1/2 hsp.. Am I wasting my time before I start the build ?
@@Dennis-kj9qx I've found it to be more effective to run the line on the over arm from a dust extractor but if you have it hooked to a big dust collector it will still work, just maybe not as well.
My saw fortunately has an overhead dust collector. I too run two vacuum systems with the saw. What I don't like is that I now must use ear protection with the three machines running. Maybe I should be wearing it anyhow. I wanted to try hooking both to the 4-inch system but fittings for such do not seem to exist. I was wondering if you had tried to hook both to the 4-inch to see if it really made a difference?
I have tried hooking an overarm collector to the big dust collector but it doesn't work as well. Dust extractors move the air at higher velocity for lower volume hoses so they are more effective for an overarm collector than a big dust collector. The velocity drops quite a bit when you step down a big dust collector line.
Hi, Dan. I enjoy your videos a lot. I purchased your MPT plans and I'm building two tables as outfeed / assembly tables in my shop. I'm also going to build an overarm dust collector based on your design with a few modifications. I'm curious about the scale of the parts in your design. Why did you laminate the baltic birch braces to 1" thick? Do you think that is necessary for stiffness...seems like a single thickness of 3/4" or even 1/2" would have the same vertical rigidity. Also, do you think its necessary to go with 1 1/2" aluminum tubing? Like you, I'm in Canada and it isn't always easy to find raw materials in small quantities at a reasonable price. Home Depot has 1" aluminum tubing 3' long...do you think 1" will be stiff enough? What's the downside, in your opinion, of building the arm assembly using lighter spec material? Thanks for the videos, please keep up the great work!
+Tom Junkin thanks! The reason I went with the two layers of baltic birch to make 1" thick stock is for horizontal rigidity. You're right that thinner plywood would have the same vertical rigidity but the extra thickness helps prevent front to back flex in the overarm. The same goes for the 1 1/2" square aluminum tubing, it just adds to the overall rigidity. I wanted to make things as beefy as possible to resist twisting and sag since it cantilevers a decent distance and is only attached at the side of the saw. I bought my aluminum tubing from Princess Auto and it is much cheaper there than Home Depot. I think if you built the overarm out of lighter spec materials there would be more flex and twist in the whole assembly which causes problems with the dust shroud moving around and hitting the spinning blade. Hope that helps.
I am thinking that I would prefer to have the dust hose pointed away from me, going toward the back... Would you not be able to reverse the Ryobi Router dust collector and have it go in that direction? Hmmm... maybe it would interfere by bumping into the fence... I wonder in there is another dust collector that is points the opposite direction...
The reason that I pointed it forward is so that the dust spitting off the back of the blade can continue in its natural path into the dust hose rather than having to completely change directions like it would if the hose came from the back. I figured it would make the collection efficiency better.
I like the design, however wouldn’t the suction coming from the back rather than the front keep your sight line clearer. Seems like the hose would block the view of the blade when it’s on the front.
It would keep the sight line clearer but it would also be less effective. Since the dust is spitting off the back of the blade and traveling forward it continues on that path right into the dust hose. If the hose was on the back then the dust would have to completely change direction to go into the hose which would reduce the collection efficiency. I have changed my setup slightly since this video and used pool hose rather than the Bosch dust extractor hose and that improves the sight line since the power tool adapter fitting isn't there anymore. If you look on my channel you'll see an update video I did.
Thanks. I would say that about 90% of the dust is captured between the two collection methods. There is very little dust to clean up at the table saw when I'm done working.
Great video. There are times when I need to trim ⅛” or less from the width of a panel. In those cases, a lot of dust is thrown onto the table to the left of the blade rather than straight up when coming off the back of the blade. Do you see that problem when using this jig?
Yeah if I'm making a cut like that I still get a spray of dust coming off the side. I usually try and avoid having to make cuts like that by leaving extra width on pieces so that there is a small off cut to help contain the dust.
Dan, did you find that adding the over arm collection effective? In other words, is the before and after a huge difference or does the bottom collection capture nearly all of the dust?
+James Mabry I found the overarm collector made a big difference. I used to get a good amount of dust spitting off the back of the blade but the overarm captures that well.
+ben celiz the overarm is higher than the surface of the table saw to give clearance for cutting. For example when I'm using the cross cut sled it gives me clearance to remove a large piece that was just cut to the right of the blade. Also gives vertical clearance for pushing pieces through when ripping.
Hi Dan, I've been watching your video from Ireland and you are a very clever young man, we do not have over here access to all the part that I need for my different machines, the selection you have in the states is mind blowing.... I wanted a shark guard but it seems very complicated to try and get companies in the states to send products to Europe, there are many great ideas that I see on here, but getting the parts so that I can make my own is proving very difficult.... therefore I have to make my own in some shape or other.... I heard you say a Bosch guard for a routher, is that correct, do you have a parts number and I might try and see can I dig one up at a dealership over here.... This is the first time doing this to anyone that I've seen on RUclips, I don't even know if you will get this... Hoping?.. Regards, Noel
+Noel Murphy Hi Noel, I can certainly give you the part number. It is RA1175 for the Bosch router dust collection attachment. I'm actually in Canada so we don't have quite the selection here that is available in the US either. Hope that helps, let me know if you have any other questions and thanks for watching!
Has anyone tried this with a bigger overarm? Hoping to set up something similar at around 2500mm long and worried about the weight causing stability issues. I figure simply using larger yet lightweight angle plates would fix it.
Dan, did you make the metal legs for your table saw extension wings? I'm currently thinking about adding an extension wing to my table saw and am thinking about what legs I'll use to support the extension. And where did you find the 1 1/2" square aluminum tubing? Checking around at the major home improvement stores, I can only find 1 1/4" square aluminum tubing. Thanks!!
+Cory Spears no I didn't make the extension wing legs. They actually came with the saw but it wouldn't be hard to make something similar. I bought the 1 1/2" aluminum tubing at Princess Auto and it was quite a bit cheaper than at the home centers.
Hi Dan, I have an older Delta table cabinet saw. Around 1985, but I think I might've removed the whole left side cover of the saw. I was young and dumb when I did it. But can you please help me figure out a way to enclose that. As you know the bottom is open? I know there's an easy way to do this, I don't want to make excuses, but I was in an accident that left me with short term memory. Thats the reason to please help me out. Also with the over arm dust collector, do you remove it? Cause I have outfitted my table saw wit a router on the same side. Will that be a problem?
+Rick Bleda I would make a plywood cover for the side of your saw and make it to mount with the same holes as the original cover. I don't usually remove the overarm on my saw but by removing the bolts it's easily done. For your situation with the router table I would build the overarm with a quick release setup of some kind. Hope that helps.
+jon Q I put it on the front side to keep the flow of dust and air in its natural path off the back of the blade rather than having to change direction and go to the back.
I actually figured that after posting the comment, but I appreciate the response. This is going to be a perfect addition to my old unisaw... I'm tired of getting a face full of dust every time I make a cut.
+RageTheNumbers if I had a riving knife I would probably just have made a notch in the back of the dust shroud similar to the one in the front that the blade passes through. That would give clearance for a riving knife.
+RageTheNumbers Yeah a system similar to what the Saw Stop saws have could be done if you have a riving knife. That was actually the first design concept that I explored but with my saw being older and no riving knife or even a way to attach a riving knife that moved up and down with the blade I decided to go overarm. I have used a Saw Stop table saw in a shop I worked in briefly and that dust collection setup with the riving knife is very effective.
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ruclips.net/user/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
If the shroud was bigger and came further forward to cover the whole blade then the fence of the cross cut sled would hit it and not allow you to complete the cut. Since the dust comes off the back of the blade, all you really need is a small shroud like this. Yes you would capture slightly more dust with a larger one that covers the whole blade but then it wouldn't work for cross cuts.
@@DPShopTalk You may be right. I personally don't use a cross cut sled much. What do you think of the design in this vid ruclips.net/video/DA-O-1qUDh4/видео.html
+Paul fromVictor thanks for sharing your build, it looks great! I really like what you've done with the drawer slide to make the shroud move back and forth. The adjustment that you've built in is a great feature too. I really appreciate you sharing the link to the video too, that's always a huge help. If you would like to have your overarm featured on the Viewer Projects page on the DP website it would be a great addition. If you're interested just click on the 'submit your project' button on this page to send in photos and a description. I think other viewers would find your modifications really helpful. Thanks again! www.danpattison.com/blog/viewerprojects
hey dan thats perfect . i love the set up. i was looking to find a way to do the same thing and was coming up with a similar idea but mine was all wood. i like the idea of using aluminum ... i was gonna try and build a bigger collector at the end to cover the whole blade since i get blasted with dust, especially from oak.. thanks for the video.
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Great solution for the poorly designed Sawstop overarm dust collector. The common theme seems to be that there really needs to be a separate dedicated dust collector system for the overarm, as you have mentioned here. Great video...super detailed...much appreciated.
+Garry Dye thanks, glad you found it helpful!
I watched your video series on how to make these older table saws more dust friendly. You are right on the money with with the intent and design of the solutions and i will be incorporating at least 2 of the 4 solutions offered unto my own table saw. Where I get discouraged is the amount of time and effort (plus percieved inconvenience) i would have to spend on dust mitigation. The boom arm is awesome but i cant help thinking it will just get in my way. I admit its probably more me than anything else. I get annoyed with the safety guards on the blades too. But i've benefited from them immensely as i still have all 10 fingers still attached to my hand. Im likely going to forgo the boom arm and just where a dust mask while cutting and just deal with the dust coming off the top of the blade the good ol' fashioned way (broom, dust pan, shop vac and compressed air). The last year or 2 have made wearing a mask a non-issue where-as before i would not have even considered it. I also just realized you now have to have 3 machines running at the same time to use your tablesaw. My 15 amp breaker would not approve!
Thanks for sharing your experience and your plans. Dust control is my new priority.
This is really the best process in demonstrating the construction of an item; start with deconstruction then build. Thanks!
Ty also for this. Video,it will help me a lot when I make the same set up
Interesting watch. I found the same thing is true. I use my collector for the bottom and the higher velocity shop vac for the over-arm. Nice clean design you did.
I just found you today, and will be working at incorporating several of your ideas into my shop. I struggle with good ideas, and need someone else to do some of the work so that my mods will work. I will come back and let you know when this comes together! THANKS
+Dave McCracken looking forward to seeing your shop mods.
The video length is fine for me. I like the detail, and enjoy seeing how others deal with connections, screw placement, and alignments. I'm just setting up my shop, it will take the better part of a year, since I'm working on it as a weekend warrior. Also I tend to over complicate things, and get a better sense of what works by viewing what others have found to work, then adapting it to my situation. Dust is a major concern, as the shop will be adjacent to living space, and has open air access to the heating / cooling
+Edward Morai this would be a good jig for you to build if dust is a big concern for you since it is pretty much dustless. All the best with your new shop setup!
Great plan and video! Thanks for sharing this.
Nice build and very well organized and presented video. Excellent job.
Dan, your ingenuity amazes me. Another great video!
Nice. Glad you mentioned the dedicated vacuum for the blade. I would have tried to patch it into the bottom suction. I'll see what I can come up with to adapt to my saw. Thanks.
Great set up. What I wish you’d have explained in more detail is the attaching it through your dust cyclone unit. Like, how did you attach it? How did you seal it? and also, If someone had other tools using the dust cyclone unit, how would that table saw hose not affect the suction of the whole main line that feeds to other tools. Because you dont have any kind of blast gate or shut off going into the cyclone/dust devil unit. I do love the fact that you introduced the idea of the whole concept of having an alternative and more efficient way of splitting the lower and upper suction areas because I was just going to split a “Y” from one pipe to both.
The setup that I have has a 4" hose coming directly from the big Dust Deputy to the bottom of the table saw for the bottom collection and my Bosch dust extractor is connected directly to the over arm collector. I don't have a central dust collection system set up so I just connect to whichever machine I'm using. In this video the hose on the over arm is the stock Bosch hose but I have since changed it to a dedicated hose using pool hose.
You are a great instructor and very creative. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much. This is going to be my next challenge .
Very nice! I think I'll use your plan. I may try to design it to pivot up at the wall so I can have it out of the way when needed.
+easterlake that's a great idea.
Great idea!!! You made my day!!! Thanks!!!
This is great, thank you for the thorough instructions. One thought I had was some taller jigs may get in the way. I'm wondering if making the upper bar two pieces with a 12 inch wooden coupler in the middle and two twist knob fasteners to hold them together would work. Would give the flexibility to remove fixed arm of some sort of jig was causing problems.
Great, simple design. I had a Delta/Beisemeyer over arm collection kit on a saw that was very similar. Your homemade design would be much cheaper and just as effective. I am going to try it in our new shop, since my old hood is long gone.
Nice job, was looking around for ideas on a dust collection system in my shop finally.. and the last piece was needing an idea for the table saw. thank you very much.. keep up the great work.
+sifilmaker glad you found it helpful!
Nice video Dan I really like it . Very solidly built and effective .
A very comprehensive walkthrough. Thank you for taking the time to share this 👍😎🇦🇺
Thanks. You helped me.
Excellent video an a great process
You have a organized, clean, and safe looking shop. Thank you for sharing and keep up the good work.
Really like your video and the very well explanations. I’m going to make my version for my much smaller workshop where my primary work stations consist of workbench, job-site table-saw and miter saw. I’m going to try a dust collection with a ceiling pivot that can be rotated to serve all three stations.
No words to describe how much l love this design. Exactly what I needed. Thank you! Absolutely wonderful. BTW, your shop is far too clean. :) But very inspiring.
Thanks DP, I appreciate the detail of your overarm dust collection unit, Im still trying to find a way to bring a 4" flex tube to the over arm extractor with out buying something like the excaliber model...
Nice work, a simple but effective upgrade. Alternative to the flexible hose, you could try using some 2"/50mm PVC pipe along the boom arm - that'd rely on finding adapters (or even small lengths of flex hose) to/from the vac/saw shroud.
+Paul “TheWoodKnight” Jenkins thanks! That's a good idea to use some PVC pipe. If I used rigid pipe then that short piece of hose that I have would be enough to go from the pipe to the dust shroud. Thanks for the idea!
+Paul Jenkins I finally got around to implementing you suggestion and installed some clear pipe along with some short lengths of flexible hose. Works great and lets me have my dust extractor hose back. Thanks again for the suggestion. Here's a pic of what I came up with.
instagram.com/p/BJyKulBB7vz/
Amazing
Sorry Dan just found your how to video. Thanks great simple build
good job! will use your ideas for my table saw. thank you
I really enjoy your videos. You explain things very well and are very articulate. You have a soothing calm voice. I heard you mention that you build cabinets. Do you have any videos on the building of kitchen cabinets?
+Richard Shaw thanks. I don't have any cabinet construction videos at this point but it sounds like there is some interest in some so I'll add that to the list.
Great video. I ordered the bosch part, and will try to replicate your design. I have a tight spot, and may mount to the wall instead of the saw.
+nyla bone thanks. Let me know how you make out with your overarm build. I've found that mine makes a big difference to how clean my shop stays.
+DP Shop Talk starting to lay out my arm. what is the distance between your table saw top and the aluminum arm?
+nyla bone from the top of the table saw surface to the underside of the aluminum arm it is 14"
+DP Shop Talk great - thanks! I need to wall mount mine, so I will adjust to be about that distance.
if you have the time, I would appreciate the measurements of the plexiglass pieces and the Baltic piece on the end of the arm.
+nyla bone the baltic piece is 5 5/8" wide by 7" tall. The inner piece of plexi is 5 5/8" wide by 7 3/8" tall and the outer piece of plexi that the shroud mounts to is 5 5/8" wide by 6" tall. Hope that helps.
Very cool! Will be my next project. Thanks!
Dave, I couldn’t find the reference to the Bosch. Router dust collection part. Can you repost. Your design is genius.
I just added an Amazon link in the video description so you can go directly to it.
I recently sub'd to your channel and I'm gradually working through your vids. I'm enjoying your pace and style. Very relaxed, matter-of-fact presentation. Not showy or gimmicky. Also, each of your vids shows me something I want to make use of. Keep up the good work.
+DesandSam thanks for the feedback, it's always helpful and very much appreciated. Glad that you're finding the videos helpful.
Nice! Thanks for posting it.
Excellent video,
Would be nice to see you build something like Mitchell Rudman's above table saw dust collector (shroud only) at hffcom.
Thank you Dan. This is great. Did you make the bench? If not where can I find one similar (for bench dogs)?
I see it now.
Thank you for sharing this project in such a clear manner. I don't have a cyclone unit, just a single dust extractor vacuum, so I would have to split the 100mm/4in hose above and below the saw. Do you think I would get enough suction to the top shroud for it to all be effective? If possible, I don't want to get all the way to the end and find it barely works!
I've found that having two separate collection machines works the best for maximum suction. You could split off of one and it would be much better than no overarm collection but not quite as effective as two collectors.
@@DPShopTalk I'm going to give that a go. One more thing, have you removed the riving knife or just lowered it? Again, thanks for a brilliant video!
My saw doesn't have a riving knife. I bought it about 20 years ago and riving knives weren't as popular back then.
Loved the video, great looking design, I was wondering about when you cut on the edge of the piece does it still collect that dust also. I know most over head collection when cutting a piece but doesn’t do well trimming edges. Will it still kick out dust, love your videos, thanks for your time.
Yeah if I cut along the edge of a piece then dust will still spit out the side. Sometimes in situations like that I use a magnetic dust chute placed just off to the side of the cut to collect that dust.
I really like your overarm dust collector. I'm going to start working on one for my saw. What is the distance from your saw top to the aluminum channel? Have you made a "how to" video of this build yet? Thanks for all the shop tips!
+Fran Kiko thanks. This is the only how-to video that I've made about the overarm. I haven't made an episode showing the actual making of the parts but I do show how they all go together in this video. I'll get that measurement for you next time I'm out in the shop since I'm working on site right now. If I forget and you don't hear back from me just email me at dan@danpattison.com to remind me.
+Fran Kiko I finally got a chance to get that dimension for you. From the top of the table saw top to the underside of the aluminum channel is 14". Hope that helps.
Nice video...well put together and clearly explained. Can you tell me the approximate wall thickness of the aluminum tubing? Thanks.
Very clear and understandable presentation for any person and for me a rank amateur. GKWOOD
+GEORGE KHATTAR thanks, glad you found it helpful!
I'm very late to the comments, sorry. I love the idea and will build one myself. Curious as to why the hose attaches in the front side of the blade? Is it ever in your way? I think I'll flip mine 18p degrees so it hooks on the back side. Great video with great information!
+Richard Spencer thanks. The reason I went with the hose on the front is it lets the dust travel into the hose on its natural course being spit off the back of the blade. You could put the hose on the back but the dust would then have to change direction. Great question.
Very nice Dan, and a lot cheaper than some commercial alternatives! How do you handle the obstruction posed by the right vertical assembly for long pieces on the sled? Sorry if you already answered, didn't see it in the comments. Thanks.
+vahpr great question, I don't think anyone has asked that before. I find that typically when I'm building cabinets, most parts that I'm cross cutting are shorter than the distance from the blade to the vertical arm of the overarm dust collector so it's not usually an issue. If I am cutting a part that is longer I have two options. I can either have the longer length on the left side of the blade and still use the table saw or I just use my track saw to make the cut. Hope that helps.
Thanks Dan, thought that might have been how you handled it. I have frequent occasion to cut long (about 4') tubes on the sled with an aux fence, this operation works better on the right side, which was why I asked. Appreciate the reply!
Hi Dan,
Not sure if this has been mentioned, but if I were to build this, I would actually run a PVC pipe inside the boom arm. Would mean less suction hose is needed and it is then out of the way.
That would be a good way to go. You would either have to increase the size of the aluminum arm or decrease the size of the PVC pipe. The only downside would be you couldn't see clogs in the line.
Before I embark on building this, I'm wondering if you're aware of any shortcoming with your plexiglass shroud because of its small radius. My saw is a standard 10", but without the experience of working with your design, my first thought is that a blade raised even just a little too high might render the DC head unusable for fear of tearing out more plastic to accommodate it. It does appear that the RA1175 shroud might work best on cuts that require minimal blade exposure.
Aside from that concern, I must say this design is beautifully simple and exactly what I need.
I've never come across any issues with it myself. Most material that I cut is between 1/4" to 1" thick so I don't usually have the blade up super high. Whenever I raise the blade I raise the height of the dust shroud accordingly.
This is probably one of the best overhead dust collector I've seen. But a question...Do I block off the factory dust port in the back of my saw, or use that along with the overhead? Thank you. Again great project.
No you don’t block it off. The main purpose of the overhead collector is to prevent the majority of the dust that the bottom collector don’t catch from getting all over you , the floor and the top of the saw. Having both highly reduces dust spreading all over. If done correctly it greatly reduces shop cleanups after every cut. Hope this helps.😊
For best results you would use both. The answer below from P F is a good explanation and is well said.
@Dan Pattison - Thank you Sir.😊
@@pf5658 Thanks for the response
@@DPShopTalk Thank you for the feedback.
Good video presentation and process instruction. Unfortunately, you didn't show the saw in operation with the dust collection and it leaves me with a few questions/concerns. (1) The Bosh router collection shroud seems to be somewhat undersized for a 10" saw blade if you raise the blade over an inch or so. (2) The front hose exit is probably very effective since it is in line with the direction the dust is being thrown, but does seem to impede vision or access to the blade. Possibly, a right angle elbow between the shroud and the hose would allow the hose to exit on a more vertical angle. (3) I would like to see an arm that could swing out of the way to provide better access to the throat plate for blade changes, etc. (4) A design that would allow the shroud assembly to float up and down as the material if fed into the blade would improve dust collection and safety. (5) Your design provides dust collection but does not show other safety features that are often incorporated into over-arm units -- suck as riving knife/splitter(s) or pawls. Not to be critical of a very clean build, but to help others to refine this important function at the table saw.
If you watch the update to this video I show how it works with my cross cut sled and the ability to work with the sled is the main reason I kept the dust shroud smaller. It's definitely not intended to be a guard in any way. You could definitely make changes and tweaks to suit how you intend to use it.
Hello, do you have the print for the adjustable plastic mount you made?
No unfortunately I don't have a template available for the plastic mount. It would need to be somewhat custom depending on your saw and overarm construction.
What part of the blade is the most important to cover with the shroud? Thank you for the great videos!
+Josh Rice for dust collection, the back of the blade is most important to cover since it's the back of the blade that spits the dust out. Covering the back of the blade doesn't help with safety though in terms of a guard so keep that in mind.
Please provide some details about the type of pool hose and the clear pipe you switched to later. Thanks
Here's a link
amzn.to/2Ua9GNr
Lookin good Lt. Dan. ;)
Hi nice job! I highly appreciate the aluminum tube as the material for the arm, lightweight and sturdy. Although I have one concern: why the hose is facing towards the operator, blocking the view? I guess it would be more convenient to have it running straight up, or to the back.
Part of the reason that the hose faces forward is so that the sawdust spitting off the back of the blade has a more direct path into the dust hose. Straight up would be the next best option but that wouldn't work with the design of the Bosch router dust shroud that I used. If I was to run the hose to the back then the sawdust would have to basically change direction to go into the hose which I think would reduce the collection efficiency.
@@DPShopTalk I have only 4 inch pvc vac line and have no choice but to Y and run the 2 size hoses at the same time with a JET 1 1/2 hsp.. Am I wasting my time before I start the build ?
@@Dennis-kj9qx I've found it to be more effective to run the line on the over arm from a dust extractor but if you have it hooked to a big dust collector it will still work, just maybe not as well.
@@DPShopTalk You got me thinking...Going to use my 5.0 shop vac.. Thanx for the reply. Ever build hardwood furniture ?
@@Dennis-kj9qx yeah actually I used to build hardwood furniture when I was younger when I got started in woodworking.
My saw fortunately has an overhead dust collector. I too run two vacuum systems with the saw. What I don't like is that I now must use ear protection with the three machines running. Maybe I should be wearing it anyhow. I wanted to try hooking both to the 4-inch system but fittings for such do not seem to exist. I was wondering if you had tried to hook both to the 4-inch to see if it really made a difference?
I have tried hooking an overarm collector to the big dust collector but it doesn't work as well. Dust extractors move the air at higher velocity for lower volume hoses so they are more effective for an overarm collector than a big dust collector. The velocity drops quite a bit when you step down a big dust collector line.
Hi, Dan. I enjoy your videos a lot. I purchased your MPT plans and I'm building two tables as outfeed / assembly tables in my shop. I'm also going to build an overarm dust collector based on your design with a few modifications. I'm curious about the scale of the parts in your design. Why did you laminate the baltic birch braces to 1" thick? Do you think that is necessary for stiffness...seems like a single thickness of 3/4" or even 1/2" would have the same vertical rigidity. Also, do you think its necessary to go with 1 1/2" aluminum tubing? Like you, I'm in Canada and it isn't always easy to find raw materials in small quantities at a reasonable price. Home Depot has 1" aluminum tubing 3' long...do you think 1" will be stiff enough? What's the downside, in your opinion, of building the arm assembly using lighter spec material? Thanks for the videos, please keep up the great work!
+Tom Junkin thanks! The reason I went with the two layers of baltic birch to make 1" thick stock is for horizontal rigidity. You're right that thinner plywood would have the same vertical rigidity but the extra thickness helps prevent front to back flex in the overarm. The same goes for the 1 1/2" square aluminum tubing, it just adds to the overall rigidity. I wanted to make things as beefy as possible to resist twisting and sag since it cantilevers a decent distance and is only attached at the side of the saw. I bought my aluminum tubing from Princess Auto and it is much cheaper there than Home Depot. I think if you built the overarm out of lighter spec materials there would be more flex and twist in the whole assembly which causes problems with the dust shroud moving around and hitting the spinning blade. Hope that helps.
I am thinking that I would prefer to have the dust hose pointed away from me, going toward the back... Would you not be able to reverse the Ryobi Router dust collector and have it go in that direction?
Hmmm... maybe it would interfere by bumping into the fence... I wonder in there is another dust collector that is points the opposite direction...
The reason that I pointed it forward is so that the dust spitting off the back of the blade can continue in its natural path into the dust hose rather than having to completely change directions like it would if the hose came from the back. I figured it would make the collection efficiency better.
I like the design, however wouldn’t the suction coming from the back rather than the front keep your sight line clearer. Seems like the hose would block the view of the blade when it’s on the front.
It would keep the sight line clearer but it would also be less effective. Since the dust is spitting off the back of the blade and traveling forward it continues on that path right into the dust hose. If the hose was on the back then the dust would have to completely change direction to go into the hose which would reduce the collection efficiency. I have changed my setup slightly since this video and used pool hose rather than the Bosch dust extractor hose and that improves the sight line since the power tool adapter fitting isn't there anymore. If you look on my channel you'll see an update video I did.
Dan, what a great job. Between the upper and lower collection system, what percent of total dust is captured from the table saw?
Thanks. I would say that about 90% of the dust is captured between the two collection methods. There is very little dust to clean up at the table saw when I'm done working.
Great video. There are times when I need to trim ⅛” or less from the width of a panel. In those cases, a lot of dust is thrown onto the table to the left of the blade rather than straight up when coming off the back of the blade. Do you see that problem when using this jig?
Yeah if I'm making a cut like that I still get a spray of dust coming off the side. I usually try and avoid having to make cuts like that by leaving extra width on pieces so that there is a small off cut to help contain the dust.
Dan, did you find that adding the over arm collection effective? In other words, is the before and after a huge difference or does the bottom collection capture nearly all of the dust?
+James Mabry I found the overarm collector made a big difference. I used to get a good amount of dust spitting off the back of the blade but the overarm captures that well.
Curious, why do you have the over arm considerably higher than the table saw?
+ben celiz the overarm is higher than the surface of the table saw to give clearance for cutting. For example when I'm using the cross cut sled it gives me clearance to remove a large piece that was just cut to the right of the blade. Also gives vertical clearance for pushing pieces through when ripping.
Would a hose connected to a thru hole in the fence work?
It might catch some but you really need something in front of the blade to capture the bulk of the dust.
Nice video. A question: What is the CFM rating on the Bosch dust extractor you have connected to the overarm?
Thanks, it's rated at 150 CFM.
How well do you think it works. ?
It works great for me and makes a huge difference in how much dust gets collected at the source. I wouldn't run my table saw without it.
Hi Dan, I've been watching your video from Ireland and you are a very clever young man, we do not have over here access to all the part that I need for my different machines, the selection you have in the states is mind blowing.... I wanted a shark guard but it seems very complicated to try and get companies in the states to send products to Europe, there are many great ideas that I see on here, but getting the parts so that I can make my own is proving very difficult.... therefore I have to make my own in some shape or other....
I heard you say a Bosch guard for a routher, is that correct, do you have a parts number and I might try and see can I dig one up at a dealership over here.... This is the first time doing this to anyone that I've seen on RUclips, I don't even know if you will get this... Hoping?..
Regards, Noel
+Noel Murphy Hi Noel, I can certainly give you the part number. It is RA1175 for the Bosch router dust collection attachment. I'm actually in Canada so we don't have quite the selection here that is available in the US either. Hope that helps, let me know if you have any other questions and thanks for watching!
Has anyone tried this with a bigger overarm? Hoping to set up something similar at around 2500mm long and worried about the weight causing stability issues. I figure simply using larger yet lightweight angle plates would fix it.
Dan, did you make the metal legs for your table saw extension wings? I'm currently thinking about adding an extension wing to my table saw and am thinking about what legs I'll use to support the extension.
And where did you find the 1 1/2" square aluminum tubing? Checking around at the major home improvement stores, I can only find 1 1/4" square aluminum tubing.
Thanks!!
+Cory Spears no I didn't make the extension wing legs. They actually came with the saw but it wouldn't be hard to make something similar. I bought the 1 1/2" aluminum tubing at Princess Auto and it was quite a bit cheaper than at the home centers.
Dan Pattison Thanks!
What is the height of the arm off the table surface? Great looking collector!
It's about 14"
Hi Dan, I have an older Delta table cabinet saw. Around 1985, but I think I might've removed the whole left side cover of the saw. I was young and dumb when I did it. But can you please help me figure out a way to enclose that. As you know the bottom is open? I know there's an easy way to do this, I don't want to make excuses, but I was in an accident that left me with short term memory. Thats the reason to please help me out. Also with the over arm dust collector, do you remove it? Cause I have outfitted my table saw wit a router on the same side. Will that be a problem?
+Rick Bleda I would make a plywood cover for the side of your saw and make it to mount with the same holes as the original cover. I don't usually remove the overarm on my saw but by removing the bolts it's easily done. For your situation with the router table I would build the overarm with a quick release setup of some kind. Hope that helps.
Dan Pattison thanks
Do you really need the mechanical strength on your triangles? Seems like 1/2" on each side would be enough.
That might be enough but I figured why not add a little extra.
any reason why the hose plugs in on the operator side rather than the outfeed side? Seems like it could partially obstruct vision.
+jon Q I put it on the front side to keep the flow of dust and air in its natural path off the back of the blade rather than having to change direction and go to the back.
I actually figured that after posting the comment, but I appreciate the response. This is going to be a perfect addition to my old unisaw... I'm tired of getting a face full of dust every time I make a cut.
I'm wondering if you had a riving knife how you would have gone about the overhead cleanup different?
+RageTheNumbers if I had a riving knife I would probably just have made a notch in the back of the dust shroud similar to the one in the front that the blade passes through. That would give clearance for a riving knife.
Ok. Do you think you would have somehow mounted something to the riving knife instead of the overarm system?
+RageTheNumbers Yeah a system similar to what the Saw Stop saws have could be done if you have a riving knife. That was actually the first design concept that I explored but with my saw being older and no riving knife or even a way to attach a riving knife that moved up and down with the blade I decided to go overarm. I have used a Saw Stop table saw in a shop I worked in briefly and that dust collection setup with the riving knife is very effective.
Thank you for the information! :)
How thick is the plexi you used?
It is about 1/8" thick
👌👌👌
Hey Dan,where did u get the aluminum tube? Thanks going to try and build it. Ps nice shop and vids!
I think I bought the aluminum tube at Home Depot
Has anyone had a need to have this HIGHER than 15 inches above the table ?
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ruclips.net/user/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
The bosch part is too small for good dust collection especially when a blade is 3 inches up
The reason I went with the smaller shroud is to make it work with a cross cut sled.
@@DPShopTalk please elaborate
If the shroud was bigger and came further forward to cover the whole blade then the fence of the cross cut sled would hit it and not allow you to complete the cut. Since the dust comes off the back of the blade, all you really need is a small shroud like this. Yes you would capture slightly more dust with a larger one that covers the whole blade but then it wouldn't work for cross cuts.
@@DPShopTalk You may be right. I personally don't use a cross cut sled much. What do you think of the design in this vid ruclips.net/video/DA-O-1qUDh4/видео.html
Great video Dan. Thanks for taking the effort to put this video up. I made one of my own, with a few modifications. lumberjocks.com/projects/285434
+Paul fromVictor thanks for sharing your build, it looks great! I really like what you've done with the drawer slide to make the shroud move back and forth. The adjustment that you've built in is a great feature too. I really appreciate you sharing the link to the video too, that's always a huge help.
If you would like to have your overarm featured on the Viewer Projects page on the DP website it would be a great addition. If you're interested just click on the 'submit your project' button on this page to send in photos and a description. I think other viewers would find your modifications really helpful. Thanks again!
www.danpattison.com/blog/viewerprojects
this could be edited to four mins.
+youlovejoe it could be but I think there would be a lot missing. I try and give as much info as possible without making it too long and drawn out.
Dan Pattison length is perfect
Dan, I think the length and content are right on the mark. Great job and thanks
Way to make your table less safe with an “upgrade”
hey dan thats perfect . i love the set up. i was looking to find a way to do the same thing and was coming up with a similar idea but mine was all wood. i like the idea of using aluminum ... i was gonna try and build a bigger collector at the end to cover the whole blade since i get blasted with dust, especially from oak.. thanks for the video.
Great set up, thanks for sharing!