I would just like to say I made one of these but to use it with the fence only you can not cut small or even medium size pieces because then you can not get to the piece of wood to push it through the blade. An then when I cut a piece of wood a little wider the cut off got sucked up and then the blade caught it and sent it across the shop like a missile hitting my light switch cover shattering it in to a million pieces, that could of been me. Maybe it works better with a sled I do not know because I do not have one, just saying be very careful.
+Sheila Sharpe thanks for bringing this up and glad to hear that you're ok. Narrow cuts are definitely tricky to make with this setup as well as most other guards or dust collection devices. Most times if I'm making a lot of narrow cuts I'll either raise the dust shroud out of the way or take it off altogether and I should have mentioned that in the video. I also try and avoid having small offcuts that are small enough to get sucked up into the dust shroud whenever possible. For the vast majority of cuts I find the shroud works great but narrow rips and small offcuts can definitely be an issue. I came across these issues after I made the video which is why I didn't mention it. I'll pin this to the top of the comments though so that others can see it too. Again thanks for letting me know and glad to hear that you weren't injured.
Have you built one of the DP Shop Talk projects? Submit your project at the link below and check out other projects that have been submitted by viewers! Also leave your comments, questions and ideas at the bottom of the page in the comments box. www.danpattison.com/blog/viewerprojects
Great ideas for a dust collection system for my table saw. One suggestion. On the side of your cross-cut sled that is closest to you, I've added a block to where the saw blade can come through the sled. This is to remind me to not put my hands there. It is so easy to forget exactly where the blade comes through and that block tells me to keep my hands away from that part of the sled. It's only for safety. I, too, am really tired of all the sawdust that my table saw spews.
+Mark Slafkes great suggestion about the safety block. The fence on my sled is thick enough that the blade doesn't come through it when making normal cuts which is why I've never added a block.
G'day mate, great idea & good to see Paul Jenkins contribution helping there, so many creative & inventive people helping each other on RUclips 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 it's great to see that ordinary folk can have a go at making things
+Dirk Gibbons thanks. RUclips definitely is a great platform for sharing ideas and finding out how to do things. Like I mentioned in the video I really enjoy that you guys share your ideas too in the comments and with photos. It's great to see a community forming and growing.
Dan, Excellent job on the upgrades to the overarm. Using the clear pipe for the majority of the run in comparison to using only flex hose definitely reduces the air resistance and allows for an increase in suction and air flow. I was one of the original people requesting a video of the overarm build. Since we have the exact same table saw, your original video and the follow ups could not have been more helpful. I immediately made the enclosure for the back just as you did.... genius by the way, and made the overarm shortly after. One suggestion I have for your under the saw dust collection is not to have a flat bottom. The flat bottom allows dust to accumulate around the 4" port which will pile up quickly. I made a dust chute that is angled down and in from all four sides allowing all dust to make it to the 4" collection port. I have tried both methods and saw a significant difference with the dust chute. I never have to clean out the inside cabinet of the table saw since ALL the dust flows right to my 4" outlet. I can send you pics and dimensions. Made mine out of sheet metal, but you can use 1/4" or 1/2" material (MDF, plywood) Thanks again for all the great tips and insight on all things for the shop. Where did you purchase the clear pipe and the blue flex hose?
+Jared Turner thanks Jared! Glad that you found the videos helpful and that you were able to build the same additions for your saw. You're right that the rigid pipe helps with the air flow and the other thing that helps too is the larger diameter of the pipe and hose compared to the Bosch hose. I really like your idea of the sloped bottom collection! That would be great if you could send some pics and the dimensions that you used. I definitely get saw dust building up in the corners like you said. dan@danpattison.com The clear plastic pipe I bought from Lee Valley in a kit years ago and the blue flex hose is actually pool hose that I bought from Kent. I just recently bought more of the same hose from Canadian Tire too for my Axial Glide dust collection mods. If you haven't seen that you can check it out on my instagram. Thanks again Jared.
Had also purchase the clear tubing. At the open had added a red laser for a visual effect ( inexpensive fitting from Harbor Frieght™ ) . Employing same Bosch™ end fitting for my shop vac. Good additions.
The table saw in my shop causes most of the stray dust. I will be borrowing your ideas for the overarm attachment to help control some of that. I picked up some used pool hose that will come in handy.
+pgfollett pool hose is what I used on mine and it's perfect. I like that the pool hose is generally fairly smooth inside too for the best air flow. I'd love to see what you come up with for your overarm setup and if you'd like to have it featured on the new viewer projects page that I'm going to be adding to the DP website you can email pics to dan@danpattison.com
Dan, Thanks for the video...appreciate the ideas you've shared. I'm looking to incorporate some form of dust extraction like this but I'm concerned with this setup when using a crosscut or panel sled with larger length stock. The upright at the edge of your extension table would definitely prohibit any cut on boards that overhang the table. Your table saw's extension table seems much wider that most standard equipment that comes with a saw...even for a contractor-style saw. Thanks again.
Once I had the ability to easily cross cut longer panels with my track saw and the MPT I was ok with limiting that ability on the table saw. If I didn't have the track saw setup I probably wouldn't have built the overarm dust collector the way I did.
Thanks for this. It appears to me that, with the addition of the plastic pipe, you could dispense with the aluminum tubing and use the pipe as the structural support as well as dust extraction.
I have been looking for am good idea on how to keep the saw dust from hitting me in the face,liked the idea so built me one that is copied of your with a few modifications. Will send pictures when i can. Thanks for the idea i really like it now that it is built
+Paul Jenkins that was one of my main design criteria to make it work with the cross cut sled since like you I made a lot of dust cross cutting. I've used a Sawstop table saw before and the blade guard dust collector worked great but it won't work with a cross cut sled. It makes a huge difference in how clean my shop stays having the overarm. Thanks again for the idea for the pipe! It's nice to have my dust extractor hose back again.
Definitely a GREAT modification Dan. I would round over the corners on the aluminum mending plate. It will certainly collect some of your DNA if you don't. Good job!!
+Sebastopolmark thanks! That's a great suggestion. I did round all the cut edges a bit with a file before I installed the aluminum angle but the corners could probably use a little more. I'd prefer to keep all my DNA :)
Hi Dan, Great dust collection system! Do you happen to have plans for this system? It would be helpful to see all the dimensions of the various pieces. Thanks!
Why haven't more people used the "Blade Guard" that comes with the saw? I haven't tried yet but would think attaching a 1 or 1 1/2 " tub might be a way to go?? Your thoughts??
A lot of the stock blade guards, especially older ones aren't well made or well designed. The guard that came with this saw is useless in my opinion. Most of them are open on the ends which doesn't work well for dust collection either. The other factor is you can't use a cross cut sled with a standard guard.
My present crosscut sled is made using 3/4 inch plywood. I cannot tell from the video how thick your plywood base is. My aim is to reduce the weight of the sled as much as I can without sacrificing the accuracy of the sled. Can it be made from 1/4 inch? Thanks for taking my question.
+Andrew Leith that's a great solution. I'm going to be starting a page on the DP website for viewer projects so if you're interested in having your overarm featured you can email pics to dan@danpattison.com
+Stelios Stavrinides oh ok that's what I thought you meant but wasn't sure. I find that the fence never hits the dust shroud since I can feel when the cut is complete or can see it so the sled really doesn't go any further most times. It would still make a good addition though. I would like to add some sort of stop though for the back fence so that I never accidentally bring the sled too far forward and cut into the aluminum angle.
What is the height from the bottom of the aluminum bar down to the table? And what size were the squares of wood before You cut them into two pieces? Thanks for the information. I have all the materials gathered and about to start building it.
+David Permenter the height to the bottom of the aluminum bar from the table surface is 14". I'll have to get a measurement for you on the triangles though.
I would just like to say I made one of these but to use it with the fence only you can not cut small or even medium size pieces because then you can not get to the piece of wood to push it through the blade. An then when I cut a piece of wood a little wider the cut off got sucked up and then the blade caught it and sent it across the shop like a missile hitting my light switch cover shattering it in to a million pieces, that could of been me. Maybe it works better with a sled I do not know because I do not have one, just saying be very careful.
+Sheila Sharpe thanks for bringing this up and glad to hear that you're ok. Narrow cuts are definitely tricky to make with this setup as well as most other guards or dust collection devices. Most times if I'm making a lot of narrow cuts I'll either raise the dust shroud out of the way or take it off altogether and I should have mentioned that in the video. I also try and avoid having small offcuts that are small enough to get sucked up into the dust shroud whenever possible. For the vast majority of cuts I find the shroud works great but narrow rips and small offcuts can definitely be an issue. I came across these issues after I made the video which is why I didn't mention it. I'll pin this to the top of the comments though so that others can see it too. Again thanks for letting me know and glad to hear that you weren't injured.
I screw all my kickbacks to the wall in front of my Table saw . I learned this in high school woodshop. It WILL make you think before you cut.
Use a mitre saw or a small handheld manual saw for small pieces.
Have you built one of the DP Shop Talk projects? Submit your project at the link below and check out other projects that have been submitted by viewers! Also leave your comments, questions and ideas at the bottom of the page in the comments box.
www.danpattison.com/blog/viewerprojects
Great ideas for a dust collection system for my table saw. One suggestion. On the side of your cross-cut sled that is closest to you, I've added a block to where the saw blade can come through the sled. This is to remind me to not put my hands there. It is so easy to forget exactly where the blade comes through and that block tells me to keep my hands away from that part of the sled. It's only for safety. I, too, am really tired of all the sawdust that my table saw spews.
+Mark Slafkes great suggestion about the safety block. The fence on my sled is thick enough that the blade doesn't come through it when making normal cuts which is why I've never added a block.
G'day mate, great idea & good to see Paul Jenkins contribution helping there, so many creative & inventive people helping each other on RUclips 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 it's great to see that ordinary folk can have a go at making things
+Dirk Gibbons thanks. RUclips definitely is a great platform for sharing ideas and finding out how to do things. Like I mentioned in the video I really enjoy that you guys share your ideas too in the comments and with photos. It's great to see a community forming and growing.
Interessting solutions, I must build one for myself.
Dan,
Excellent job on the upgrades to the overarm. Using the clear pipe for the majority of the run in comparison to using only flex hose definitely reduces the air resistance and allows for an increase in suction and air flow. I was one of the original people requesting a video of the overarm build. Since we have the exact same table saw, your original video and the follow ups could not have been more helpful. I immediately made the enclosure for the back just as you did.... genius by the way, and made the overarm shortly after.
One suggestion I have for your under the saw dust collection is not to have a flat bottom. The flat bottom allows dust to accumulate around the 4" port which will pile up quickly. I made a dust chute that is angled down and in from all four sides allowing all dust to make it to the 4" collection port. I have tried both methods and saw a significant difference with the dust chute. I never have to clean out the inside cabinet of the table saw since ALL the dust flows right to my 4" outlet.
I can send you pics and dimensions. Made mine out of sheet metal, but you can use 1/4" or 1/2" material (MDF, plywood)
Thanks again for all the great tips and insight on all things for the shop.
Where did you purchase the clear pipe and the blue flex hose?
+Jared Turner thanks Jared! Glad that you found the videos helpful and that you were able to build the same additions for your saw. You're right that the rigid pipe helps with the air flow and the other thing that helps too is the larger diameter of the pipe and hose compared to the Bosch hose.
I really like your idea of the sloped bottom collection! That would be great if you could send some pics and the dimensions that you used. I definitely get saw dust building up in the corners like you said. dan@danpattison.com
The clear plastic pipe I bought from Lee Valley in a kit years ago and the blue flex hose is actually pool hose that I bought from Kent. I just recently bought more of the same hose from Canadian Tire too for my Axial Glide dust collection mods. If you haven't seen that you can check it out on my instagram. Thanks again Jared.
Had also purchase the clear tubing. At the open had added a red laser for a visual effect ( inexpensive fitting from Harbor Frieght™ ) . Employing same Bosch™ end fitting for my shop vac. Good additions.
+homeownerbuilder that's a cool idea with the red laser.
The table saw in my shop causes most of the stray dust. I will be borrowing your ideas for the overarm attachment to help control some of that. I picked up some used pool hose that will come in handy.
+pgfollett pool hose is what I used on mine and it's perfect. I like that the pool hose is generally fairly smooth inside too for the best air flow. I'd love to see what you come up with for your overarm setup and if you'd like to have it featured on the new viewer projects page that I'm going to be adding to the DP website you can email pics to dan@danpattison.com
Glad I saw this. I was starting the first build. Much cleaner look and performance. ,
Excellent series of videos Dan, on this subject!
Dan, Thanks for the video...appreciate the ideas you've shared. I'm looking to incorporate some form of dust extraction like this but I'm concerned with this setup when using a crosscut or panel sled with larger length stock. The upright at the edge of your extension table would definitely prohibit any cut on boards that overhang the table. Your table saw's extension table seems much wider that most standard equipment that comes with a saw...even for a contractor-style saw. Thanks again.
Once I had the ability to easily cross cut longer panels with my track saw and the MPT I was ok with limiting that ability on the table saw. If I didn't have the track saw setup I probably wouldn't have built the overarm dust collector the way I did.
Nice upgrade Dan!
+Jim Dockrell (The Watertone Workshop) thanks Jim!
Thanks for this. It appears to me that, with the addition of the plastic pipe, you could dispense with the aluminum tubing and use the pipe as the structural support as well as dust extraction.
If it was a metal pipe that would work but the plastic pipe wouldn't be strong enough or rigid enough to also be the structural support.
I have been looking for am good idea on how to keep the saw dust from hitting me in the face,liked the idea so built me one that is copied of your with a few modifications. Will send pictures when i can. Thanks for the idea i really like it now that it is built
+Charles jack looking forward to seeing your pictures
Here are the pictures i promised
\o/ Glad I could help. That setup would work wonders with my dado/crosscut sled, that thing produces the most spray of dust I can generate!
+Paul Jenkins that was one of my main design criteria to make it work with the cross cut sled since like you I made a lot of dust cross cutting. I've used a Sawstop table saw before and the blade guard dust collector worked great but it won't work with a cross cut sled. It makes a huge difference in how clean my shop stays having the overarm. Thanks again for the idea for the pipe! It's nice to have my dust extractor hose back again.
Definitely a GREAT modification Dan. I would round over the corners on the aluminum mending plate. It will certainly collect some of your DNA if you don't. Good job!!
+Sebastopolmark thanks! That's a great suggestion. I did round all the cut edges a bit with a file before I installed the aluminum angle but the corners could probably use a little more. I'd prefer to keep all my DNA :)
nice job on the upgrades Dan keep up the good work
+Opa's Workshop thanks!
Hi Dan,
Great dust collection system! Do you happen to have plans for this system? It would be helpful to see all the dimensions of the various pieces.
Thanks!
Unfortunately I don't have plans available for it.
improvements!
Sorry if I missed this, but did you make the blade shroud or did you buy it?
I bought the Bosch router dust shroud that I used to make it. The link for it should be in the description.
Why haven't more people used the "Blade Guard" that comes with the saw? I haven't tried yet but would think attaching a 1 or 1 1/2 " tub might be a way to go?? Your thoughts??
A lot of the stock blade guards, especially older ones aren't well made or well designed. The guard that came with this saw is useless in my opinion. Most of them are open on the ends which doesn't work well for dust collection either. The other factor is you can't use a cross cut sled with a standard guard.
Masking Tape to the rescue! :-P
Great videos. Thanks.
Where did you get the clear tubing?
+barbara kvistad thanks. I got the clear tubing from a dust collection kit that I bought years ago at Lee Valley.
where did you get the clear tubing and connectors?
It was part of a dust collection kit that I bought from Lee Valley years ago.
Is that pool hose, as mentioned previously?
My present crosscut sled is made using 3/4 inch plywood. I cannot tell from the video how thick your plywood base is. My aim is to reduce the weight of the sled as much as I can without sacrificing the accuracy of the sled. Can it be made from 1/4 inch? Thanks for taking my question.
+Lyle Hough my crosscut sled is made from 5/8" thick plywood. I would say 1/4" would be too thin. I think 1/2" is as thin as I would go personally.
Thanks again Dan.
nice I used a steel muffler pipe for my arm killed 2 birds the pipe hooks up to the flexi at either end it was cheap at the auto parts store
+Andrew Leith that's a great solution. I'm going to be starting a page on the DP website for viewer projects so if you're interested in having your overarm featured you can email pics to dan@danpattison.com
i think a stopper on the sled might help you a bit not hitting the fence of the sled
+Stelios Stavrinides which fence are you referring to?
i was referring to the sled fence hitting to the acrylic blade dust guard at the end of a cut
+Stelios Stavrinides oh ok that's what I thought you meant but wasn't sure. I find that the fence never hits the dust shroud since I can feel when the cut is complete or can see it so the sled really doesn't go any further most times. It would still make a good addition though. I would like to add some sort of stop though for the back fence so that I never accidentally bring the sled too far forward and cut into the aluminum angle.
Thanks for the reply Dan... keep it up with those great vids... Thumbs Up !!!
What is the height from the bottom of the aluminum bar down to the table? And what size were the squares of wood before You cut them into two pieces? Thanks for the information. I have all the materials gathered and about to start building it.
+David Permenter the height to the bottom of the aluminum bar from the table surface is 14". I'll have to get a measurement for you on the triangles though.
Dan Pattison Thanks Dan.
+David Permenter I just measured while I'm in the shop and the squares were 10"
Thanks, Dan. What size were the wood pieces before You made your diagonal cut?
+David Permenter 10" x 10"
Hi Dan - I am just curious on the dimensions of your table saw sled. Thanks.
+Owen Jennings I'll try and remember next time I'm in the shop to measure it. If you don't hear back from me just remind me.
+Owen Jennings the sled is 48" wide and 35" deep