Great job with the video. I just found your channel and have been working thru them one by one. I appreciate the way you show a regular rifle enthusiast what it takes to build an accurate rifle. Keep them coming and I'll keep watching.
to all those saying he left too much headspace, my opinion is he did it properly since he headspaced off an oversize lug. So will be easy to make tighter but if anyone uses a oversized lug in future it will still be within nogo specifications
Another really nice video! The dangers of showing your work is that you have to defend your actions to the League of Extraordinary Critics! I was a bit concerned with the "generous" nature of your headspace but once I read the comments all became clear. Maybe with a critical dimension like that you could explain how the SAAMI headspace dimensions of 1.6486 MIN - 1.6586 MAX for that cartridge are a pretty large window and that you were intentionally closer to the No-Go dimension because of the hunting ammunition reliability issue in the video? I never push a torque wrench. I find it easier to stop at the required setting if I slowly apply a pulling force that gradually increases until the target is met. All the same, I really enjoy your tutorials and wish you would continue to expand the precision rifle line of them! A++
The No-Go means the bolt should not look like even wanting to close. I would say that's a way loose chamber.! May even have too much play the firing pin won't have enough to ignite the primer.
This video series is outstanding, you filming and technical content is super professional and really well delivered. I wish you all the success with your channel. Subscribed! I did note that you were turning the tenon threads in reverse, away from the chuck. Similar to Joe Pie? Have you been using this technique for long?
Thanks Mr Macdonald! I have been turning threads "backwards" for several years now, and yes I was inspired by Joe to try it. It's really nice for internal threads where you can't really see!
From the description, "concentric to the centerline of the barrel to guarantee a precision rifle build". The barrel does not have a centerline, but rather a center curve. By indicating both ends of the barrel concentric to the lathe spindle you are almost guaranteeing that the thread tenon and chamber will be misaligned with the bore.
Yep. After dialing it in at both ends, turn the lathe on a slow speed and look down the bore. You can see the curve in almost all barrels, even high end barrels have a slight curve. Bartlein barrels are the straightest I’ve ever seen.
Thanks for the videos, makes me want a lathe even more. Someday i want to chamber my own barrel. Cant get enough of these videos. That a PM gunsmith lathe?
Have a question if able and when you’ve got time. I know this video has been here a few months but I just found your site. Great job and information. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. When cutting your chamber, how do you reset your reamer for accurate depth after the initial roughing cut? Pulling the reamer out, which requires sliding the tail stock… that screws up your zero. Repeat cleaning and clearing chips and slide the tail stock forward and ream to final depth? Do you have a stop block for the tail stock so the slide micrometer or caliper is still at an accurate zero? You can’t really touch off again accurately for those final minuscule thousandths to “Go or No Go” depth. Appreciate the info and direction. Best.
Thanks for watching! Although not super precise, the method I use is repeatable enough for me that I haven't had any over shoots when chambering. In the very rare event that that may happen, it's easy to trim the torque shoulder back to correct (unless of course the barrel needs to be indexed exactly in some way).
@@wyomingguncompany3327 Thanks for the reply. I was thinking along that line of thought. If one cut too deep on the chamber you just recut the end to make depth and re-shoulder. Measure twice… cut once, … unless you cut twice and it was still too short… ;) I’ll have to drop in next time rolling through CPR. Best to you and yours.
Very informative video thank you! What brand of barrel vise are you using for the carbon barrel and are you only clamping on the steel portion of the barrel?
Greeting Ron! You can get a hold of me by email. Go to the channel main page and hit "About". You'll get an email address to contact me with. Thanks for watching!!
All of this is what I want done to my new 7PRC...action blueprint and bolt hole reaming and bolt sleeving. Pity you cant take down the bolt throw and maybe stiffen spring. 90 degrees is so 1962! Some customizing bolt and throw lever would be cool. Bought my new donor 300wm the other day and it is on the way to my new gunsmith.
You reamed it to deep, no go gauge shouldn’t close that easy it should be a dead stop or very tight even with a tactical/field rifle. The go gauge should be tighter, you’ll see reduce brass life where the datam line will be blown out thinning the brass near the head if the chamber is cut too deep.
Greetings and thanks for watching our video! In this particular case our customer wanted to be able to use any factory ammo out there and isn't interested in handloading. While I understand your concern, we do what our customers request and in this case he wanted a reliable chamber that would accept any/all factory ammo under real world hunting conditions. The rifle shoots extremely well (see last video in the series) and that's all that matters to the customer in the end. If it was a bench/match rifle that would be handloaded for, we'd have definitely cut the chamber tighter. Thanks again for watching!
@@wyomingguncompany3327 It is an oxymoron to accurize a rifle for use with factory ammo. Each barrel may require a different 'flavor' of bullet / powder to shoot to its optimal ability. Handloading is the only way to achieve the union between hardware and software (the ammo), Since hunting rifles will probably be used under extreme weather conditions, sleeving the bolt only makes it easier for dirt to hide somewhere and lock up the bolt to action clearance. I realize you are giving the customer what he wants, but is the customer going to actually be happy with what he gets? Sometimes a little education goes a long way.
If the owner chooses to handload in the future would the headspace matter past the first two cycles on the brass. That is what headspace comparators are for, the owner could simply establish MAX - .002" bump the shoulders to that point and have the same brass life as the rest of us running minimum Sammi spec chambers. How the owner sizes his brass is what matters, I've seen web thinning on brass shot through minimum spec chambers because the person loading the ammo didn't quite understand the difference between "headspace" and "head clearance".
Great job with the video. I just found your channel and have been working thru them one by one. I appreciate the way you show a regular rifle enthusiast what it takes to build an accurate rifle. Keep them coming and I'll keep watching.
Looks like you went too deep with NO-GO-GUAGE.
Great video, love these so called experts and their comments.
Good explanation, good video editing! I hope you a great success on youtube! I will be learning closely!
to all those saying he left too much headspace, my opinion is he did it properly since he headspaced off an oversize lug. So will be easy to make tighter but if anyone uses a oversized lug in future it will still be within nogo specifications
Another really nice video! The dangers of showing your work is that you have to defend your actions to the League of Extraordinary Critics! I was a bit concerned with the "generous" nature of your headspace but once I read the comments all became clear. Maybe with a critical dimension like that you could explain how the SAAMI headspace dimensions of 1.6486 MIN - 1.6586 MAX for that cartridge are a pretty large window and that you were intentionally closer to the No-Go dimension because of the hunting ammunition reliability issue in the video? I never push a torque wrench. I find it easier to stop at the required setting if I slowly apply a pulling force that gradually increases until the target is met. All the same, I really enjoy your tutorials and wish you would continue to expand the precision rifle line of them! A++
Good video
Now would be a good time to install an ar15 extractor, great video!
The No-Go means the bolt should not look like even wanting to close. I would say that's a way loose chamber.! May even have too much play the firing pin won't have enough to ignite the primer.
i agree
Agreed, actually surprised. It looked like it practically closed.
You must realize the barrel is not torqued. When it is, it won't go that far.
@@darrellblanchard2362 The bolt closed on the No Go gauge after he torqued the action! He removed too much material during the reaming process!
Wrong! I merely means that it’s not a minimum spec chamber. When the field gauge will chamber that’s when you have a problem!
great series!
This video series is outstanding, you filming and technical content is super professional and really well delivered. I wish you all the success with your channel. Subscribed!
I did note that you were turning the tenon threads in reverse, away from the chuck. Similar to Joe Pie? Have you been using this technique for long?
Thanks Mr Macdonald! I have been turning threads "backwards" for several years now, and yes I was inspired by Joe to try it. It's really nice for internal threads where you can't really see!
lol the bolt should not close on the no go gauge.
SETTING UP THE BARREL WRONG. THIS IS EFFECTIVELY TURNING BETWEEN CENTERS IT WILL NEVER PERFORM AS WELL AS A BARREL SET UP CORRECTLY.
From the description, "concentric to the centerline of the barrel to guarantee a precision rifle build". The barrel does not have a centerline, but rather a center curve. By indicating both ends of the barrel concentric to the lathe spindle you are almost guaranteeing that the thread tenon and chamber will be misaligned with the bore.
Yep. After dialing it in at both ends, turn the lathe on a slow speed and look down the bore. You can see the curve in almost all barrels, even high end barrels have a slight curve. Bartlein barrels are the straightest I’ve ever seen.
Sure looked like that action closed with the no go gage in it to me...
Thanks for the videos, makes me want a lathe even more. Someday i want to chamber my own barrel. Cant get enough of these videos. That a PM gunsmith lathe?
Have a question if able and when you’ve got time.
I know this video has been here a few months but I just found your site.
Great job and information. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
When cutting your chamber, how do you reset your reamer for accurate depth after the initial roughing cut?
Pulling the reamer out, which requires sliding the tail stock… that screws up your zero. Repeat cleaning and clearing chips and slide the tail stock forward and ream to final depth? Do you have a stop block for the tail stock so the slide micrometer or caliper is still at an accurate zero?
You can’t really touch off again accurately for those final minuscule thousandths to “Go or No Go” depth.
Appreciate the info and direction.
Best.
Thanks for watching! Although not super precise, the method I use is repeatable enough for me that I haven't had any over shoots when chambering. In the very rare event that that may happen, it's easy to trim the torque shoulder back to correct (unless of course the barrel needs to be indexed exactly in some way).
@@wyomingguncompany3327
Thanks for the reply.
I was thinking along that line of thought. If one cut too deep on the chamber you just recut the end to make depth and re-shoulder. Measure twice… cut once, … unless you cut twice and it was still too short… ;)
I’ll have to drop in next time rolling through CPR.
Best to you and yours.
Why did you not check the threads you cut on the barrel with a go no go gauge ? This would ensure thread diameter and the pitch .
Very informative video thank you! What brand of barrel vise are you using for the carbon barrel and are you only clamping on the steel portion of the barrel?
It is the barrel vise "system" Brownells sells. Yes, clamping on the steel shank. Thanks for watching and nice comments!
Thanks for sharing much appreciated
When your indicating off of the bore rods, how come you are not going out to the end of the rod instead of right at the muzzle or breach
Can you list you lathe tooling bits you used ie" bolt nose reamer, are you quick change tool bits HSS or carbide ?
Great video. What are you using to be able to attach your torque wrench to the receiver?
What are you wrapping the carbon barrel with, to protect it, in the jaws...
Could I send you my remington 700 sps in 308 to get work done? I have a mdt recoil lug I want added and my local gunsmith doesn't want to touch it
Absolutely! email gunsmith AT wyogun.com to get the process started.
Little bit close in the no go.
How do you keep the recoil lug true to the action while torquing to the barrel?
THIS! still waiting for an answer
Where can I buy that bolt nose recess cutter?
Hello Geoff, Is there any way to send you a question that is to long for this area ?
Thanks,, Ron
Greeting Ron! You can get a hold of me by email. Go to the channel main page and hit "About". You'll get an email address to contact me with. Thanks for watching!!
All of this is what I want done to my new 7PRC...action blueprint and bolt hole reaming and bolt sleeving. Pity you cant take down the bolt throw and maybe stiffen spring. 90 degrees is so 1962! Some customizing bolt and throw lever would be cool. Bought my new donor 300wm the other day and it is on the way to my new gunsmith.
To much headspace
You reamed it to deep, no go gauge shouldn’t close that easy it should be a dead stop or very tight even with a tactical/field rifle. The go gauge should be tighter, you’ll see reduce brass life where the datam line will be blown out thinning the brass near the head if the chamber is cut too deep.
Greetings and thanks for watching our video! In this particular case our customer wanted to be able to use any factory ammo out there and isn't interested in handloading. While I understand your concern, we do what our customers request and in this case he wanted a reliable chamber that would accept any/all factory ammo under real world hunting conditions. The rifle shoots extremely well (see last video in the series) and that's all that matters to the customer in the end. If it was a bench/match rifle that would be handloaded for, we'd have definitely cut the chamber tighter. Thanks again for watching!
@@wyomingguncompany3327 It is an oxymoron to accurize a rifle for use with factory ammo. Each barrel may require a different 'flavor' of bullet / powder to shoot to its optimal ability. Handloading is the only way to achieve the union between hardware and software (the ammo),
Since hunting rifles will probably be used under extreme weather conditions, sleeving the bolt only makes it easier for dirt to hide somewhere and lock up the bolt to action clearance. I realize you are giving the customer what he wants, but is the customer going to actually be happy with what he gets? Sometimes a little education goes a long way.
If the owner chooses to handload in the future would the headspace matter past the first two cycles on the brass. That is what headspace comparators are for, the owner could simply establish MAX - .002" bump the shoulders to that point and have the same brass life as the rest of us running minimum Sammi spec chambers. How the owner sizes his brass is what matters, I've seen web thinning on brass shot through minimum spec chambers because the person loading the ammo didn't quite understand the difference between "headspace" and "head clearance".
Come on man, someone paying for precision work, you should be using .0001 indicators. not .0005.
Can you accurize an action for me? I've e-mailed you.
absolutely! let me know if the email didn't go through...
It's a Sako S491. I need receiver trued up,, lug abutments recut and receiver threads single pointed. What's your turn around time?
stay away from carbon fiber barrels, junk
Its not rocket science.
You are correct. it is firearm customization.