Really stunning differing results between HC 110 and Xtol. This film in Xtol makes it an everyday film, whereas in HC 110 it takes a major grain fan to enjoy those images. Xtol really is amazing stuff!
@@TheNegative I've heard good things about Xtol for some time now from friends, but I have this bottle of HC 110 that is almost 2 years old now and will just not die! I love HC 110 for most general applications, also a fan of Rodinal for 100 speed films. Once the bottle of HC 110 is done I'll try out Xtol!
@@roxspeedg HC is a great gen. Purpose developer! I also really like the unique look of rodinal. You just have to know when not to use them cause the results will suffer. XTOL is also a good general purpose developer. I like the extra level of creativity you can get from different developers. It feels like the last step of creative input in the image before it’s final. (At least until you bring it into Lightroom or the darkroom)
I had some time today so i figured I’d get it out so everyone could check it out over the weekend :) I developed at 27C, Dilution 1:1 and the time was 10 min. The times are kinda long for this film so I developed warm. (20C time is 16 min, yikes!) Hope you enjoy the video :)
@@soundmixervegas at the top of the minute I invert, taking about one second, then another second in the opposite direction. And yes I twist with the inversion.
@@soundmixervegas at the top of the minute I invert, taking about one second, then another second in the opposite direction. And yes I twist with the inversion.
The improvement here almost seems *too* extreme. It's one thing these images looking way less grainy and messy, but that's also 35mm compared with the shots you took on 6x6 is it not? Is there any chance that your 120 was compromised in some way? Or is hc110 just utterly garbage with p3200!?
No, the other video was 35mm also. I think the HC110 is just a bad choice for p3200. These results are promising though! I think it pairs well with the XTOL :)
@@TheNegative my mistake, for some reason I recalled you shooting those on a hasselblad. The xtol result looks really great, I see why people like it now. I still think you might find hp5 a better film at all speeds, I only ever used hc110 pushing up to 3200. Xtol could be pretty amazing, however I recently saw a video of John finch getting a genuine 250iso out of fp4 with fx55. I wonder if that speed enhancement would make it a good candidate for pushing film. It's very safe and easy to make too!
@@davyboyo I wish I had a Hasselblad! I shot the previous roll in my Nikon though. Yeah, you can’t go wrong with HP5 honestly! It looks great at all speeds. I’ve never heard of that developer but yeah sounds like a good one for pushing. XTOL is pretty good for pushing as well.
@@TheNegative seems like xtol is just a class act, fx55 is based on similar ingredients I think. Yes a hasslblad would be nice wouldn't it 😪 Thanks for the continued excellent content!
Hi there. First this, it is not wise to choose HC110 for Tmax 3200 becase it is a grai ENHANCING developer and made for medium format but better for largeformat since grain is not an issue there... 20 years ago I tested Tmax 3200 and came up with an effective speed of ISO 1000 for me. My friends who also used it called me mad, no no, it is iso 1600 film they kept repeating, reading photograpy magazines and repeating their nonsens. Until I downloaded the Kodak fact sheet wich reveald the effectiv speed of 800 or 1000 iso, I can't remember, then they got quiet (LOL). Use this film only to special occasions were you need to record something special like a concert were shadow detail is not that important and you choose to work analog. Further, this film, when calibrated well gives sharp results, special when you shoot almost wide open, you will be amazed... Go and try Tmax developere of X-tol p.s. please take next time a consistent item with fine detail in controlled lighting to use as a reference, not that silly thing 😉
Yeah the Kodak data sheet states that it yields 1000 ISO in Tmax Developer and 800 in all other developers. I only used HC-110 because it’s a common developer that most people use. Essentially to show what results your average film shooter might expect if they only had one developer to use. Also I feel like the Spider-Man figure is a decent object. It shows the detail of the human form and does feature some fine detail in the design. What object would you recommend in place of it?
@@TheNegative Hello again 😊 First, a developer needs to fit the film, it is convinient to think that one fits all, it's not unisex... But, X-tol and T-max come close but one needs to adapt the dilution and time. Personly I only use 20deg. Celcius for all my films, regardles the time, is it is longer it gives me a safe latitude in fluctuations. Regarding sharpness, grain can be your friend when enhanced, and using your lens (almost) full open, it gives your image a crisp rendition. This (TMZ 3200) is a specialist film, you would not want to use it for fine art such as landscape. Concerning a stable item to test film on, use a couple of things, not just one item, you'v got it propably all in house, I am refering to a vase, flowers, (colors are important for rendition) sculpture, a collection of liquer bottles with their labels (remember fine detail, print etc.) but verry important, use controlled light (flash or overcast sky). This way you can repeat your test every time and compare them with previous film tests, spiderman is nice but unsuiteble...😉
Really stunning differing results between HC 110 and Xtol. This film in Xtol makes it an everyday film, whereas in HC 110 it takes a major grain fan to enjoy those images. Xtol really is amazing stuff!
Xtol is awesome! It’s my personal favorite but I think objectively you can’t deny that it gives an awesome result! :)
@@TheNegative I've heard good things about Xtol for some time now from friends, but I have this bottle of HC 110 that is almost 2 years old now and will just not die! I love HC 110 for most general applications, also a fan of Rodinal for 100 speed films. Once the bottle of HC 110 is done I'll try out Xtol!
@@roxspeedg HC is a great gen. Purpose developer! I also really like the unique look of rodinal. You just have to know when not to use them cause the results will suffer. XTOL is also a good general purpose developer. I like the extra level of creativity you can get from different developers. It feels like the last step of creative input in the image before it’s final. (At least until you bring it into Lightroom or the darkroom)
Much better results this time around. Definitely HC110 is not the right developer for it.
I didn't think I'd see this update that quickly :) So, what times, temperature and dilution did you use with Xtol?
I had some time today so i figured I’d get it out so everyone could check it out over the weekend :)
I developed at 27C, Dilution 1:1 and the time was 10 min.
The times are kinda long for this film so I developed warm. (20C time is 16 min, yikes!)
Hope you enjoy the video :)
@@TheNegative Good to know :)
Great results. Can you share some details about your development. Especially your agitation
Definitely!
XTOL 1:1
Temp: 27C, 10 min
Agitate 1st min, then agitate for 10 seconds every min.
@@TheNegative Kodak inverse without twisting? How many turns up down in 10 second?
@@soundmixervegas at the top of the minute I invert, taking about one second, then another second in the opposite direction. And yes I twist with the inversion.
@@soundmixervegas at the top of the minute I invert, taking about one second, then another second in the opposite direction. And yes I twist with the inversion.
@@TheNegative Thank You.
The improvement here almost seems *too* extreme. It's one thing these images looking way less grainy and messy, but that's also 35mm compared with the shots you took on 6x6 is it not?
Is there any chance that your 120 was compromised in some way? Or is hc110 just utterly garbage with p3200!?
No, the other video was 35mm also. I think the HC110 is just a bad choice for p3200. These results are promising though! I think it pairs well with the XTOL :)
@@TheNegative my mistake, for some reason I recalled you shooting those on a hasselblad. The xtol result looks really great, I see why people like it now. I still think you might find hp5 a better film at all speeds, I only ever used hc110 pushing up to 3200. Xtol could be pretty amazing, however I recently saw a video of John finch getting a genuine 250iso out of fp4 with fx55. I wonder if that speed enhancement would make it a good candidate for pushing film. It's very safe and easy to make too!
@@davyboyo I wish I had a Hasselblad! I shot the previous roll in my Nikon though. Yeah, you can’t go wrong with HP5 honestly! It looks great at all speeds. I’ve never heard of that developer but yeah sounds like a good one for pushing. XTOL is pretty good for pushing as well.
@@TheNegative seems like xtol is just a class act, fx55 is based on similar ingredients I think.
Yes a hasslblad would be nice wouldn't it 😪
Thanks for the continued excellent content!
@@davyboyo XTOL is my favorite developer but yes it really is THAT good. Can’t go wrong with it. And you’re welcome! Thanks for watching the videos :)
Hi there.
First this, it is not wise to choose HC110 for Tmax 3200 becase it is a grai ENHANCING developer and made for medium format but better for largeformat since grain is not an issue there...
20 years ago I tested Tmax 3200 and came up with an effective speed of ISO 1000 for me.
My friends who also used it called me mad, no no, it is iso 1600 film they kept repeating, reading photograpy magazines and repeating their nonsens.
Until I downloaded the Kodak fact sheet wich reveald the effectiv speed of 800 or 1000 iso, I can't remember, then they got quiet (LOL).
Use this film only to special occasions were you need to record something special like a concert were shadow detail is not that important and you choose to work analog.
Further, this film, when calibrated well gives sharp results, special when you shoot almost wide open, you will be amazed...
Go and try Tmax developere of X-tol
p.s. please take next time a consistent item with fine detail in controlled lighting to use as a reference, not that silly thing 😉
Yeah the Kodak data sheet states that it yields 1000 ISO in Tmax Developer and 800 in all other developers.
I only used HC-110 because it’s a common developer that most people use. Essentially to show what results your average film shooter might expect if they only had one developer to use.
Also I feel like the Spider-Man figure is a decent object. It shows the detail of the human form and does feature some fine detail in the design.
What object would you recommend in place of it?
@@TheNegative Hello again 😊
First, a developer needs to fit the film, it is convinient to think that one fits all, it's not unisex...
But, X-tol and T-max come close but one needs to adapt the dilution and time.
Personly I only use 20deg. Celcius for all my films, regardles the time, is it is longer it gives me a safe latitude in fluctuations.
Regarding sharpness, grain can be your friend when enhanced, and using your lens (almost) full open, it gives your image a crisp rendition.
This (TMZ 3200) is a specialist film, you would not want to use it for fine art such as landscape.
Concerning a stable item to test film on, use a couple of things, not just one item, you'v got it propably all in house, I am refering to a vase, flowers, (colors are important for rendition) sculpture, a collection of liquer bottles with their labels (remember fine detail, print etc.) but verry important, use controlled light (flash or overcast sky).
This way you can repeat your test every time and compare them with previous film tests, spiderman is nice but unsuiteble...😉