METERING for FILM photography
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- Опубликовано: 27 июл 2024
- Learning to properly meter your film photos is literally the most useful skill. So this week we're talking 2 ways to meter your film photos.
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Now this isn't meant to be uber techy, but more of some techniques someone getting into film photos may or may not have heard of.
Amazon Link to the Sekonic L-308s: tinyurl.com/2p96yfkz
Film Cameras I shoot with:
1. Mamiya RB67 - for that medium format goodness
2. Canon A1 - for 35mm butter
3. Vivitar 357PZ - my newest point and shoot plastic love
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And as always, you can find me on TikTok, Twitter, and Instagram as well! The links will be listed below and I'm on these daily so feel free to @ me anytime!
TikTok: / itspatcormick
Twitter: / pat_cormick
Instagram: / pat_cormick
You appear to use the Lumisphere over the light sensor in both Incident and Reflective (should be uncovered) modes like when you pointed it at your wall. Might be a little confusing?
He used it incorrectly. The best way to learn is to always read the manual. Lol.😂
@@luna_bird Yep, haha. Closed this vid after the 2 minute point.
Nice video, but you forgot to mention that you can get incident readings from a reflective meter if you take a reflective reading off of a Kodak neutral gray text card. If you don't have a Kodak gray card, you can use the back of your hand in place of the card. If you're skin complexion is light, the reading will be about Zone 5/6 the same as a neutral gray test card and the incident meter reading. If you're skin complexion is darker then it is probably equivalent to about Zone 3. That reading will be about two stops away (more open aperture)from an incident reading. Adjust accordingly. Relying solely on average reflective readings can be tricky. For example, if your scene has large, dominent shadow areas and you want detail in the highlights, the reflected meter might lead you to overexpose and have burned-out highlights. The reverse, of course, is true, too. Using a light meter is more than just pointing it in one direction or another and watching a needle move upon a scale.
Coming in with the zones like Ansel Adams.
Well done, nice explanation!!!
I’m certainly not using an app for metering my photos. I have a L-358 meter that is unwavering.
Nicely stated. good info!!! I use a combo of handheld and iPhone apps depending on my situation!!!
Thanks so much! By handheld are you saying meters? Or just going off of like sunny 16?
@@patcormick Handheld meter, I have the same one you show in the video.
Great video
Very very good video. RS. Canada
Big thank you! Appreciate you taking the time to say so 👍🏼
great video! Could you do one for night metering please?
I have to disagree. As a photographer regardless of medium the most important thing is light, followed by the lens, and finally the medium/body. A light meter should be one of your first purchases as a photographer.
Started viewing with hope, as most of the few videos on the subject are poor or worse.; His description of concepts for reflection and incident metering are accurate, but his demonstration of incident metering does not clearly follow his instruction (He sometimes points the meter up to the sky rather than back at the camera), and his demonstration of reflection metering is completely erroneous. (He fails to retract the incident dome from over the metering cell when taking his reflection readings. Doing this will give a grossly over-exposed readings,.suggesting that he does not personally use the meter for reflection readings or he would have learned the hard way. He does not explain why you use differing metering procedures for. these two methods. If you want to learn how to use a light meter, check Nick Carver's video(s) on the subject. Too bad.