Thanks so much for this video, I received this for a birthday gift one year ago and I could not figure it out. I really wanted it for flash and if I didn't have a compound fracture, non weight bearing I would jump up and down. So you helped at least one person with their meter. Yippee. Now I can't sleep I want to crawl up to my studio and get my meter. Thanks again.
Just bought this meter a few days ago (or maybe mine is a slightly updated version 308x) and instantly was overwhelmed with trying to figure it out. Found a few RUclips videos but yours is by far the most straightforward and easy to understand. Thanks Graham.
I've had this light meter for a couple of years and never really understood how to use it. This video explained the most important features of the meter, clearly and simply. Now I can actually use this thing! :-)
You have found the ideal use for incident light meters. They are not influenced by subject brightness etc. As long as the light stays constant they exposure remains perfect. Thanks for your response to the video.
Thank you for our simple yet detailed review. I have been looking at purchasing this light meter and this review has helped me in deciding to go ahead with it. Thank you 😊
Thanks for the video. I've seen quite a few video's of this lightmeter since I needed to buy one ... Best video of all! Very simple and clear explanation, while you left nothing out. Just bought one ;)
Cheers for showing me how to work my nice new light meter. You showed it simply and it is now simple for me to be able to control my exposures, thank you :)
Thank you that was a very useful and clearly expressed video. I was hesitating to buy one of these but now I think I will go ahead as you have made the controls clear to grasp.
Thank you, most people argue that a separate meter is un-necessary these days but i think it gives you much better control for your photography - it is another discipline to stop ryshing and taking lots of pictures and hoping one will be right
I recently purchased this light meter after several years of just winging the exposure manually by eye with my Canon T4i. In using this light meter now, it keeps giving me an incident reading that overexposes the image by at least two stops. I can tell by just looking at the image in the monitor of my T4i that the light meter is way off. I have the shutter speed set at 50, with an ISO of 400. Yet, the Sekonic L-308S meter keeps telling me F4 or lower when it would obviously be F5.6 or F8. I am ready to send it back to Amazon and go back to winging the exposure by eye. I would appreciate any feedback and/or suggestions. Am I doing something wrong?
I have the same problem. I use Canon 80d and every photograph is overexposed one or two stops. I can't figure out what is wrong. I believe that 308s is wrong.
I think its time i get one of these. I have been shooting more E6 and it has shown me that my guess work isn't as good as i thought it was. Great video.
Thanks Graham for a very informative video. I spent 30 mins trying to figure it out via the manual ... I should have spent the time watching your video instead! Thanks again.
I'm shooting high speed sync flash photography portraits at f1.8 outdoors.. Very shallow depth of field to blur out background to create abstract non distracting backdrops so can shoot virtually anywhere.. I first set the background exposure with shutter speed (in bright daylight on a sunny day in the shade it can be around 1/2000 sec) & keep the aperture at f1.8 and ISO around 100 or 200.. If these settings are fixed I find I have to then experiment with my key and kicker speedlights' power manually to visually get the exposure about right on my subject..do you have any tips on using a light meter to figure out the correct flash power a lot quicker if the aperture, shutter speed and ISO are already fixed (I have the Sekonic L-308S)? Thank you
Hello I was wondering which light meter to get. I was choosing between the L308s or the L308X-U I mostly shoot on film I was just wondering if one is better than the other. I was sort of leaning towards the L308s because it’s cheaper. Is there any main differences?
Thank you for the tutorial Graham. I was just given this lightmeter and one thing is not clear to me is where do you place/point the meter when you measure cordless flash. I want to use this meter with my film camera - which doesn't have its own meter - and obviously I can test-trigger the flash from the flash itself and not with the shutter. The flash will be on the camera. So where do I point the meter? I guess in this case it must be reflective metering pointing at the subject from the camera's position. Just want to make sure.
Nice video. And helpful. The Sekonic L308S is in my opinion more than sufficient for daily work. I don't need at the a lightmeter which cost you hundreds of Euros.
Thanks for you great effort in the informative video. But the meter had a f number of 3.6 which the camera doesn't have. Does that mean that i have to lower the flash power until it reads 3.5? Thanks in advance
@Akileze Your absolutely right, there is no Aperture mode, you do have to scroll through the exposure srttings until you get the aperture value, shutter speed you require.
I am really confused at the moment can you please help me.. 1) Is EV the exposure compensation my camera body is set to? For example if I am at -7 do I set the EV on the Sekonic meter to that number? 2) Why does the meter have to point to the camera when you meter the scene? 3) I tried to use Sekonic meter for landscape with disappointing results.. both incident and reflective metering. What am I doing wrong?
Hi Johan, Thanks for the video. My 308s has stuck in Cine Mode. I noticed your meter changes from Cine Mode to Normal Mode in 4:57. how did you do that?
Hey Graham, great video! Do you think this meter is good for film? I am currently trying out film, wanted to buy a meter, and was wondering if this is a good one for film. Please respond. Thanks!
Great video! NOTE: when you see f/s (frames per sec) that means he's taking a reading for video. You can cycle through to get back to the mode for photography where you select the shutter speed.
@ghough12 thanks a lot! i've pulled the trigger on it! we're intensively busy at school with the metering in and out of the studio and learning how useful one of these can be. for this price range it's a very complete meter, cheers!
Really quick questions Graham:- in cordless flash mode, once it registers the flash ( or pre-flash) I am assuming it stays metering because the icon remains blinking? I think from my own observations it remains blinking for 90 seconds after the last light pulse it sees? Regardless does it operates in such a way that it is not fooled by a pre-flash pulse, when being used to test ttl radio triggers? In essence "I think", it registers the Pre flash if one occurs, but then overwrites that with the main pulse. Indeed if it then got another pulse whilst the icon was flashing it would overwrite the previous reading with the newest. Can you confirm that? ....I hope all this makes sense!
For natural light is it better to use incident or reflected? I set up a subject outside backlit to the sky and the incident gave me very different readings from the reflected. I think the reflected was much more accurate but in other cases the incident/ambient is fine.
Great video, Graham. I wanted to know precisely how to use the L308S, and this has shown me. The problem I have is that whenever I take a reading on flash (as you've described how) my images come out over-exposed, and I have to close the aperture by at least 1 stop. Don't know if it needs recalibrating?
+Mel Barnes Are you metering to the light or back to the camera? If you meter to the camera you will get an overexposure. Always meter directly to the light.
Great video. I'm a tad confused however. My camera has 1/3 of a stop increments and that's how I use it. Now, if I was using the meter in flash mode and was aiming for F5.6 as my aperture and the meter displays a F5.6.2 reading, two tenths of a stop over. Would I keep adjusting and metering until I got the aperture I require? The 1/10 of a stop feature throws me off. I understand that F5.6.5 would be half way between F5.6 and F8. It's the .1, .2 etc that boggle me!
+Rohan Janico It's designed that way because studio strobes (monolights) usually have adjustments in 1/10 stops. For speedlight work, just adjust to the closest 1/3 f/stop. So if you were getting f5.6.2, that's basically f5.6+1/3, which would be f6.3.
hey im back... just to update. I settled for the L-358 version, so far i like it. Im going to be shooting out side in a couple of days...... thanks again.
I would love to ask you a few questions......about this light meter.......I notice that this was recorded in 2011......are you still open for questions?
Would you recommend this meter for a beginner? I want to set up a home portrait studio at home. The price seems reasonable. Thanks for the great video.
@pooleroes No on this model you don't have the facility to "look through the lens" as with more expensive spot metering models. You just get close to your subject for the reflected light reading.
Hi, if your subject is backlit then doing an incident light reading, pointing the omnisphere to the camera, will give under exposure of the subject ( as it is likely to be influenced by the brighter foreground) - you do need to move close and take a reflected meter reading in this case. Incident light readings are usually more accurate when the ambient light is the same on the subject as the background. I would also bracket exposures by +- 0.3ev as well
HI Graham, Thanks for the simple explanation on this product. Do you know if I can trigger my studio flash head/s from the light meter and if so how?! Cheers....
Yes you can do this by using the little PC connector at the bottom right of the meter (beneath the rubber plug) - you can connect the flash sync lead here are use wireless flash trigger on the unit to fire the studio flashes, the meter will then record the exposure.
Hello, I just found your channel. Would you be kind enough to give me some advice please? I really want to buy one of these meters as I want to use incident light rather than the camera meter in my Nikon D750. When using the L308S, should I use spot metering in my D750 after transferring the incident readings to my camera or should I leave it on Matrix? If I use bounce flash (my Nikon SB700) I understand the L308S gives a reading that I set my camera to. I am not sure what to then set my flash to but I am not sure if I should I leave my flash on TTL-BL mode or put it onto manual mode? The L308S does not tell me the flash settings. Hope you can help me and thanks again for your video.
+PhotoMusicMan Put your camera into manual mode and transfer the readings into your camera. The incident light meter is almost always a better option than an in-camera meter, whether you are doing ambient light or flash metering.
by a reading of the reflected light when you slide the lumidisc off the lens, can you look through the lens, or how you actually point it at the subject you want to shoot?
Thanks for your reply ,, Another quick question, , I'm using the meter in Auto Rest cordless to meter flash, Once I get a reading, is it not possible to change the two readings together (shutter and Fstop) with the up and down button in Auto Reset cordless mode, as you can do in Ambient mode,,, when I try to do this the Fstop just goes back to 0.....thanks Jimmy
I don't have this particular meter now but If I remember rightly you just use the up/down keys to cycle through the combination of shutter/aperture. At one point it changes from fstop.aperture to f/stop and f/s
It might help to understand the incident light measurement. It is used to evaluate the light falling on the subject so you take the meter to the subject and point it back towards the camera. This gives you a meter reading which will expose mid gray correctly. You still would then apply coreection if your subject was brighter or darker than mid gray so you white subject would need less exposure by 1 stop or so. Reflected reading doesn't use the white omnisphere and can be used if you get close
If you have on off camera flash say at the side of your subject,,, do you point the light meter at the flash whilst taking the reading,,,,, then what do you do if you have 2.. 3 ..or 4 flashes ??? thanks again,, Jimmy
ran throught my meter with no problems after watching this video now do i open the quick guide book ,no dont need it thanks had a few cameras over the years but never a light meter, well worth the cost and the extra kit as more good quality shots taken with L308S and my canon 60d joiner builder who like taking pictures
great video but can you tell me how the flash reading corresponds to the settings on a speedlight?my speedlite is set to 1/64 its lowest setting but still too bright, im trying to balance ambient and flash
Normally when trying to balance ambient and flash your primary exposure is the ambient light. so say it was 1/60 at f8 you now use the flash meter to allow you to set the power and distance of the flash unit to give f8 when the flash is triggered. if your gun is still producing too much light at 1/64 power you need either to move it back or add diffusion to the front of the flash to reduce its power output. Hope that helps
Very informative and useful review, Graham. Quick question... Wouldn't an 18% gray card be just as useful? If not more economical... ...I use the gray card a lot in my photography.
how did you change it from f/s to use it as a lightmeter for still images rather than cine readings??? f/s disappeared on yours at 4:58 with no explanation??? please help! i want my reading in seconds not f/s but can't figure it out from the manual!!!!
thanks for video, but i have one problem with my lightmeter, please help i don t know what to do. my sekonic doesnt show me 1/10 measurement value. don t you know what can be the problem? thank you very much for answer!
I don't see a direct way to set this meter for Aperture Priority. Am I missing something? I suppose it can be done indirectly by scrolling the shutter speed (after light is read) until the aperture you want comes up. If that's the only way to do it that seems a bit klunky for a >$200 meter. Hopefully I've just overlooked the feature.
Yes it has the tradition frames per second cine speeds so i believe it can be used for this purpose. I also think it can be used with dslrs using the 180 degree shutter rule
A very concise explanation, I have watched this video a number of times , no stupid music, just facts and information. Thank you from Oz
Sekonic should hire you. That was WAY better than anything they put out in terms of instructions. THANK YOU!
Thanks so much for this video, I received this for a birthday gift one year ago and I could not figure it out. I really wanted it for flash and if I didn't have a compound fracture, non weight bearing I would jump up and down. So you helped at least one person with their meter. Yippee. Now I can't sleep I want to crawl up to my studio and get my meter. Thanks again.
Just bought this meter a few days ago (or maybe mine is a slightly updated version 308x) and instantly was overwhelmed with trying to figure it out. Found a few RUclips videos but yours is by far the most straightforward and easy to understand. Thanks Graham.
I've watched a few videos on this meter and this is by far the best for telling me how to actually use it and why it will be useful - thank you!
I've had this light meter for a couple of years and never really understood how to use it. This video explained the most important features of the meter, clearly and simply. Now I can actually use this thing! :-)
Very well presented. Thank you. This lightmeter still does a perfect job years on, and with digital cameras as well.
Hi...one of the best best explained videos i have seen for Light Meter. I have bought one SEKONIC L-308S now and its really simple to use. Thanks :)
Thank you sir, I have had this meter for 2 years and have never used it, this is very helpful
You have found the ideal use for incident light meters. They are not influenced by subject brightness etc. As long as the light stays constant they exposure remains perfect. Thanks for your response to the video.
Thank you for our simple yet detailed review. I have been looking at purchasing this light meter and this review has helped me in deciding to go ahead with it. Thank you 😊
Thanks for the video. I've seen quite a few video's of this lightmeter since I needed to buy one ... Best video of all! Very simple and clear explanation, while you left nothing out. Just bought one ;)
Cheers for showing me how to work my nice new light meter. You showed it simply and it is now simple for me to be able to control my exposures, thank you :)
just bought the 308 x, really no difference, learnt a lot from this
from this vid, thanks
I appreciate your review ... Far more wonderful to see and hear from an experienced (pro) teacher than reading with size 6 fonts. THANKS!!
Great explanation, thank you. How is it working after all these years?
Thank you that was a very useful and clearly expressed video. I was hesitating to buy one of these but now I think I will go ahead as you have made the controls clear to grasp.
Thank you, most people argue that a separate meter is un-necessary these days but i think it gives you much better control for your photography - it is another discipline to stop ryshing and taking lots of pictures and hoping one will be right
I just bought this light meter and was really confused, thank you for the simple and helpful explanation
Great job Graham explaining this very clearly and effectively. I look forward to seeing more of your videos.
Excellent walkaround of the functionalities of this light meter. Thanks for taking the time for this review. Very helpful!
thanks Graham this video was very useful and very well explained. sekonic should pay you for this!
I recently purchased this light meter after several years of just winging the exposure manually by eye with my Canon T4i. In using this light meter now, it keeps giving me an incident reading that overexposes the image by at least two stops. I can tell by just looking at the image in the monitor of my T4i that the light meter is way off. I have the shutter speed set at 50, with an ISO of 400. Yet, the Sekonic L-308S meter keeps telling me F4 or lower when it would obviously be F5.6 or F8. I am ready to send it back to Amazon and go back to winging the exposure by eye. I would appreciate any feedback and/or suggestions. Am I doing something wrong?
I have the same problem. I use Canon 80d and every photograph is overexposed one or two stops. I can't figure out what is wrong. I believe that 308s is wrong.
KUNG FU FEMMES I have heard of this problem before. Mine is bang on. I’d say your meter is faulty.
I think its time i get one of these. I have been shooting more E6 and it has shown me that my guess work isn't as good as i thought it was. Great video.
Thank you, you have totally convinced me. I have been researching for a light meter and this one is not to costly, thanks again. NYC.
Thanks Graham for a very informative video. I spent 30 mins trying to figure it out via the manual ... I should have spent the time watching your video instead! Thanks again.
I'm shooting high speed sync flash photography portraits at f1.8 outdoors.. Very shallow depth of field to blur out background to create abstract non distracting backdrops so can shoot virtually anywhere.. I first set the background exposure with shutter speed (in bright daylight on a sunny day in the shade it can be around 1/2000 sec) & keep the aperture at f1.8 and ISO around 100 or 200.. If these settings are fixed I find I have to then experiment with my key and kicker speedlights' power manually to visually get the exposure about right on my subject..do you have any tips on using a light meter to figure out the correct flash power a lot quicker if the aperture, shutter speed and ISO are already fixed (I have the Sekonic L-308S)? Thank you
Great job. I really like how you explan the flash mode at the end. Very helpful.
thank you Graham, just got one for myelf, and it is a very handy tools. Great and simple explanation!
Hello I was wondering which light meter to get. I was choosing between the L308s or the L308X-U I mostly shoot on film I was just wondering if one is better than the other. I was sort of leaning towards the L308s because it’s cheaper. Is there any main differences?
Really helpful thanks... Just bought one and followed your video playing with the controls!
Thank you for the tutorial Graham. I was just given this lightmeter and one thing is not clear to me is where do you place/point the meter when you measure cordless flash. I want to use this meter with my film camera - which doesn't have its own meter - and obviously I can test-trigger the flash from the flash itself and not with the shutter. The flash will be on the camera. So where do I point the meter? I guess in this case it must be reflective metering pointing at the subject from the camera's position. Just want to make sure.
I really like the way you explain- clear and concise. Hope you do more reviews! Thank you.
Excellent tutorial, just received mine today, and your review saved me a ton of time thank you very much for spending yours !!!
Nice video. And helpful. The Sekonic L308S is in my opinion more than sufficient for daily work. I don't need at the a lightmeter which cost you hundreds of Euros.
Graham, thanks very much for this video. Really useful and well presented. Much appreciated.
Nice and simple explanation ..always the best way
Thank you, appreciated
Thank you Graham!
Hi Graham sorry to ask just want to make sure.ones you set up your seikon l-308s to cs 0.3 it will be able to read light in 1/3 steps?
Thanks for you great effort in the informative video. But the meter had a f number of 3.6 which the camera doesn't have. Does that mean that i have to lower the flash power until it reads 3.5? Thanks in advance
@Akileze Your absolutely right, there is no Aperture mode, you do have to scroll through the exposure srttings until you get the aperture value, shutter speed you require.
Thanks, just got my L 308 s out of the cupboard and dusted it off, this has saved me RTFM
Very clear explainations - thank you very much. Do you do other videos on say, ratios?
Thank you. I haven't done such a video however it might be something I could do in the near future.
This is the best of all the instruction videos thank you.
I am really confused at the moment can you please help me..
1) Is EV the exposure compensation my camera body is set to? For example if I am at -7 do I set the EV on the Sekonic meter to that number?
2) Why does the meter have to point to the camera when you meter the scene?
3) I tried to use Sekonic meter for landscape with disappointing results.. both incident and reflective metering. What am I doing wrong?
Hi Johan, Thanks for the video. My 308s has stuck in Cine Mode. I noticed your meter changes from Cine Mode to Normal Mode in 4:57. how did you do that?
Im stuck on that too, did you find a solution?
Cheers Graham. Best explanation on line.
Although you don't say if this is cine or still film mode the meter does support cine frame rates as well as aperture/shutter/iso for stills.
Hey Graham, great video! Do you think this meter is good for film? I am currently trying out film, wanted to buy a meter, and was wondering if this is a good one for film.
Please respond.
Thanks!
Great video! NOTE: when you see f/s (frames per sec) that means he's taking a reading for video. You can cycle through to get back to the mode for photography where you select the shutter speed.
How do get rid of the f/s mode when using the ambient mode?
@ghough12 thanks a lot! i've pulled the trigger on it! we're intensively busy at school with the metering in and out of the studio and learning how useful one of these can be. for this price range it's a very complete meter, cheers!
The best tutorial on sekonic L-308 thank you
Thanks for a great and straightforward explanation.
Really quick questions Graham:- in cordless flash mode, once it registers the flash ( or pre-flash) I am assuming it stays metering because the icon remains blinking? I think from my own observations it remains blinking for 90 seconds after the last light pulse it sees? Regardless does it operates in such a way that it is not fooled by a pre-flash pulse, when being used to test ttl radio triggers? In essence "I think", it registers the Pre flash if one occurs, but then overwrites that with the main pulse. Indeed if it then got another pulse whilst the icon was flashing it would overwrite the previous reading with the newest. Can you confirm that? ....I hope all this makes sense!
Thank You!
I've been trying to figure out this meter for sooo long. You made it look so easy and now I understand it!
For natural light is it better to use incident or reflected? I set up a subject outside backlit to the sky and the incident gave me very different readings from the reflected. I think the reflected was much more accurate but in other cases the incident/ambient is fine.
Great video, Graham. I wanted to know precisely how to use the L308S, and this has shown me. The problem I have is that whenever I take a reading on flash (as you've described how) my images come out over-exposed, and I have to close the aperture by at least 1 stop. Don't know if it needs recalibrating?
+Mel Barnes Are you metering to the light or back to the camera? If you meter to the camera you will get an overexposure. Always meter directly to the light.
Great video. I'm a tad confused however. My camera has 1/3 of a stop increments and that's how I use it. Now, if I was using the meter in flash mode and was aiming for F5.6 as my aperture and the meter displays a F5.6.2 reading, two tenths of a stop over. Would I keep adjusting and metering until I got the aperture I require? The 1/10 of a stop feature throws me off. I understand that F5.6.5 would be half way between F5.6 and F8. It's the .1, .2 etc that boggle me!
+Rohan Janico It's designed that way because studio strobes (monolights) usually have adjustments in 1/10 stops. For speedlight work, just adjust to the closest 1/3 f/stop. So if you were getting f5.6.2, that's basically f5.6+1/3, which would be f6.3.
Very nice, thank you for explaining so well. Still I don't get on the flash part since it gives f values and the flash do not work by f numbers.
Glad the video was of help in your purchasing choice. Thanks for the comment, appreciated.
hey im back... just to update. I settled for the L-358 version, so far i like it. Im going to be shooting out side in a couple of days...... thanks again.
@Jacksione Hi have just looked at the user manual for the L308B and it appears to be almost identical so the instructions are the same.
Thank you, no music just to-the-point information
Great tutorial do you know if the l308b is similar to the s in controls
I would love to ask you a few questions......about this light meter.......I notice that this was recorded in 2011......are you still open for questions?
Would you recommend this meter for a beginner? I want to set up a home portrait studio at home. The price seems reasonable. Thanks for the great video.
Yes its a good meter, the L308B is even cheaper if you can find it but the fstop display on it is a little more difficult to read. I can recommend it
@pooleroes No on this model you don't have the facility to "look through the lens" as with more expensive spot metering models. You just get close to your subject for the reflected light reading.
excellent tutorial, I understood easily. Thanks for taking the time to do this video
Hi, if your subject is backlit then doing an incident light reading, pointing the omnisphere to the camera, will give under exposure of the subject ( as it is likely to be influenced by the brighter foreground) - you do need to move close and take a reflected meter reading in this case. Incident light readings are usually more accurate when the ambient light is the same on the subject as the background. I would also bracket exposures by +- 0.3ev as well
nice video. by chance do you know how many increments to set it up for for a nikon D810?
HI Graham, Thanks for the simple explanation on this product. Do you know if I can trigger my studio flash head/s from the light meter and if so how?! Cheers....
Yes you can do this by using the little PC connector at the bottom right of the meter (beneath the rubber plug) - you can connect the flash sync lead here are use wireless flash trigger on the unit to fire the studio flashes, the meter will then record the exposure.
Thank you David for the feedback on this video, really appreciated.
Many thanks for the kind comments, appreciated.
Hello, I just found your channel. Would you be kind enough to give me some advice please? I really want to buy one of these meters as I want to use incident light rather than the camera meter in my Nikon D750. When using the L308S, should I use spot metering in my D750 after transferring the incident readings to my camera or should I leave it on Matrix? If I use bounce flash (my Nikon SB700) I understand the L308S gives a reading that I set my camera to. I am not sure what to then set my flash to but I am not sure if I should I leave my flash on TTL-BL mode or put it onto manual mode? The L308S does not tell me the flash settings. Hope you can help me and thanks again for your video.
+PhotoMusicMan Put your camera into manual mode and transfer the readings into your camera. The incident light meter is almost always a better option than an in-camera meter, whether you are doing ambient light or flash metering.
TheThirdMan Thank you. Should I also put my flash into Manual mode or stay with TTL please?
by a reading of the reflected light when you slide the lumidisc off the lens, can you look through the lens, or how you actually point it at the subject you want to shoot?
Well, I learned so much in that short presentation! Thank you so much!
Thank you for the very useful information. Looking forward to receiving my meter in the mail any day now.!.
Thanks for your reply ,, Another quick question, , I'm using the meter in Auto Rest cordless to meter flash, Once I get a reading, is it not possible to change the two readings together (shutter and Fstop) with the up and down button in Auto Reset cordless mode, as you can do in Ambient mode,,, when I try to do this the Fstop just goes back to 0.....thanks
Jimmy
I don't have this particular meter now but If I remember rightly you just use the up/down keys to cycle through the combination of shutter/aperture. At one point it changes from fstop.aperture to f/stop and f/s
It might help to understand the incident light measurement. It is used to evaluate the light falling on the subject so you take the meter to the subject and point it back towards the camera. This gives you a meter reading which will expose mid gray correctly. You still would then apply coreection if your subject was brighter or darker than mid gray so you white subject would need less exposure by 1 stop or so. Reflected reading doesn't use the white omnisphere and can be used if you get close
If you have on off camera flash say at the side of your subject,,, do you point the light meter at the flash whilst taking the reading,,,,, then what do you do if you have 2.. 3 ..or 4 flashes ??? thanks again,,
Jimmy
Will this sekonic signal my godox cells-II trigger conected on my strobe flash?
how do you fine out the ev-range of your camera i have a canon t3i 600d
Do you know if it can be set to show the EV numbers instead of shutter and aperture? That would be handy for my Hasselblad lenses
Thanks, lots of good info told in a clear way.
Thank you very much for this helpful tutorial, I'm having my practical test tomorrow regarding light meters :D
very nice and easy to follow guide on how to use. thanks.
ran throught my meter with no problems after watching this video now do i open the quick guide book ,no dont need it thanks had a few cameras over the years but never a light meter, well worth the cost and the extra kit as more good quality shots taken with L308S and my canon 60d joiner builder who like taking pictures
great video but can you tell me how the flash reading corresponds to the settings on a speedlight?my speedlite is set to 1/64 its lowest setting but still too bright, im trying to balance ambient and flash
Normally when trying to balance ambient and flash your primary exposure is the ambient light. so say it was 1/60 at f8 you now use the flash meter to allow you to set the power and distance of the flash unit to give f8 when the flash is triggered. if your gun is still producing too much light at 1/64 power you need either to move it back or add diffusion to the front of the flash to reduce its power output. Hope that helps
Very informative and useful review, Graham.
Quick question...
Wouldn't an 18% gray card be just as useful? If not more economical...
...I use the gray card a lot in my photography.
Will this do a combined flash and ambient exposure letting us know how much of the scene is light by ambient light as opposed to flash?
Great Vid Grahem, thanks for taking the time to do this for us.
If you do two separate readings you could establish the daylight/flash ration easily, the meter doesn't have this facility directly.
Fantastic tutorial great reference video for my flashmate many many thanks.
how did you change it from f/s to use it as a lightmeter for still images rather than cine readings??? f/s disappeared on yours at 4:58 with no explanation??? please help! i want my reading in seconds not f/s but can't figure it out from the manual!!!!
Can this Light meter be used with Film cameras as well as Digital cameras?
Thanks
Super helpful thank you Graham!
Excellent general review of this meter.
thanks for video, but i have one problem with my lightmeter, please help i don t know what to do. my sekonic doesnt show me 1/10 measurement value. don t you know what can be the problem? thank you very much for answer!
What model is your meter?
@@GrahamHoughton12 Sekonic L308S, lightmeter shows me only full stops
I don't see a direct way to set this meter for Aperture Priority. Am I missing something? I suppose it can be done indirectly by scrolling the shutter speed (after light is read) until the aperture you want comes up. If that's the only way to do it that seems a bit klunky for a >$200 meter. Hopefully I've just overlooked the feature.
Yes it has the tradition frames per second cine speeds so i believe it can be used for this purpose. I also think it can be used with dslrs using the 180 degree shutter rule
Very nice review. Clear, concise.