Well narrated and lovely music background and lighting. I wonder though, I thought the stances on the artworks of European rapier fencing 🤺 were simply aspects or products of their time. Is there really a tactical advantage applicable today with the stance in 2:30? The side steps with thrust are pretty cool though. Does lowering the body in place really allow for a dodge from a facing opponent’s rapier blade? Don’t they course correct visually?
Hi! Whole of Fabris fencing is very specific and like you wrote a product of their time. However there is a significant following for (at least) the next 100 years (mainly in Germany) and some derivates. We also have to take into account that everytime we learn, many of the actions are taken to extreme and the practical usage (sparring, tournaments) look differently (like higher postures, less extreme leaning etc.). To your question, I tend to use the retracted guard at 2:30 quite a lot, last time yesterday hehe. I know of a few other people who also use it successfully (if you take a look at my rapier sparring or tournaments you'll be able to find it). TBH I don't use it defensively, more offensively as a way to shoot the point around from the other's side. The theory about lowering the body is limiting the target area as much as you can and strenghtening your position in the time of an attack (or defense, +-).
@@MartinFabian it’s a demanding discipline then that’s not about cinematic fantasy style fighting, it seems then. So the artworks are for real! The dodge is excellent! Pardon my ignorance and thank you kindly for replying!
I brought a rapier! , so far I copy Martin's moves on the grass in my garden with a shadow for a dancing partner. For target practice... popping balloons hanging by string from a branch of a tree is fun.
Excellent video. Thank you for these tutorials. You've inspired me to pick up fencing. Do you have any recommendations or tips when selecting a starter rapier?
Thank you Charles! Good choice of hobby! I would suggest a Regeneyei (www.regenyei.com/), a Danelli (www.danelliarmouries.com/index.php/basic-swords/49-basic-rapier) or a Darkwood rapier (www.danelliarmouries.com/index.php/basic-swords/49-basic-rapier). There are many other smiths but these are usually rated amongst the best. There are also some cheaper smiths but you can either expect the weapon to be too heavy or not suited for safe handling.
Thank you for your reply Martin. I'm going to pick up 2 Darkwood Economy Hilt Rapiers. As a beginner, would you recommend I get closed front or ring hilt? Is there an advantage to the ring hilt vs closed front?
I would recommend to get what you like:) But in general closed hilts provide more protection and are safer for sparring and competition. Ring hilts are IMO nicer
Makes sense. I wasn't sure if there was a discernible difference in handling from closed to open hilt. I'll go closed for training and open when I decide to get a nice blade in the future. Thank you for your time Martin. I look forward to your future videos.
Excellent video, guys. Is there a technique used for when you're bound with your opponent' and he's strongly controlling the center line with the point somewhat up, preventing you from gaining the blade and using leverage? It'd be a technique similar to "Duplieren".
Hi! Yes there is, as I've already replied to you in the other video - Fabris shows "yielding to pressure" in the plate number 111, book two - rule number one - (tinypic.com/r/20fcl6p/9) He gives 2 examples - one is when opponent breaks measure and parries, you just yield to the pressure and go from the outside with the second or that you can start from the outside and transfer to the opponent's armpit ("below the right arm").
I have questions. Where do the rapier start to lose its support when in the cross? Do both the sides and the cutting edge lose support at the same spot? Do you practice the cross?
Hi! I must say that unfortunately I'm not familiar with "the cross". I've checked your videos and have seen you have a few about the topic but I do not practice it. Generally in fencing the old masters do not prefer such handwork; either they push or disengage straight to the target depending on the type of the bind.
It's my third or fourth time watching this series. Now I have a question: 0:55 - I have a question about that part - why shouldn't I lunge in seconda from just standing in seconda? I know in some unarmed martial arts it's good to turn wrist in the moment of attack to apply more force, but 1. in fencing doesn't it put your point off the target, therefore risking to miss the attack? 2. do I need that extra force? I mean, shape of rapier's blade makes it deadly enough for me :)
This applies to all rapier guards, really. Assuming a guard will prompt your opponent to counter it with a guard of his own. If he does so properly and you remain in your initial guard, then lunge, you will run into his sword. Changing into a guard at the last second serves to deceive the opponent into using the wrong counter, failing to stab you and getting stabbed instead. The momentum of the 4th -> 2nd(or 2nd -> 4th) movement is serves to constrain the opponent's sword forcefuly, so that he can't panic-parry your thrust at the last minute. Also, if you aim for the upper body and practice to keep your piont on target, the risk of missing will become negligible.
I don’t know if it’s just me, but this seems like a marriage of ballet and fencing; it’s graceful.
Martin, these videos are great. The timing of the editing is as good as your timing in fencing. Keep up the good work!
Thank you very much Denzel!
My dudes, I still come back and watch these, they are FANTASTIC! And pretty much everything applies to the smallsword work I'm doing now.
Really, really thanks for such a great teaching.
So awesome! Thanks for showing us this guard, + ways of applying it while fencing
I really love the way you say 'alternatively'👍
The intro rocks!
Oh and fantastic content too :)
Sean Archer thanks Sean!
This series is fantastic, thank you.
It has been over a decade since I last practiced Fabris and your videos bring his treatise to life.
Thank you very much Eris, you're very kind!
The best guide for Fabrice. Forward to continuing!
Another interesting video, it is like watching fencing in three axis
I"m loving your videos. I will try second near the chest next practice!!!
These videos are amazing! Keep em coming!
Thanks Andreas!
Cool, waitin' for another one) Great work)
Great video, very well done!!!
Thanks Timothy!
Outstanding videos!!
Well narrated and lovely music background and lighting. I wonder though, I thought the stances on the artworks of European rapier fencing 🤺 were simply aspects or products of their time. Is there really a tactical advantage applicable today with the stance in 2:30? The side steps with thrust are pretty cool though. Does lowering the body in place really allow for a dodge from a facing opponent’s rapier blade? Don’t they course correct visually?
Hi! Whole of Fabris fencing is very specific and like you wrote a product of their time. However there is a significant following for (at least) the next 100 years (mainly in Germany) and some derivates. We also have to take into account that everytime we learn, many of the actions are taken to extreme and the practical usage (sparring, tournaments) look differently (like higher postures, less extreme leaning etc.).
To your question, I tend to use the retracted guard at 2:30 quite a lot, last time yesterday hehe. I know of a few other people who also use it successfully (if you take a look at my rapier sparring or tournaments you'll be able to find it). TBH I don't use it defensively, more offensively as a way to shoot the point around from the other's side.
The theory about lowering the body is limiting the target area as much as you can and strenghtening your position in the time of an attack (or defense, +-).
@@MartinFabian it’s a demanding discipline then that’s not about cinematic fantasy style fighting, it seems then. So the artworks are for real! The dodge is excellent! Pardon my ignorance and thank you kindly for replying!
I brought a rapier! , so far I copy Martin's moves on the grass in my garden with a shadow for a dancing partner. For target practice... popping balloons hanging by string from a branch of a tree is fun.
nice!!!!!! I love it!!!!!
Thanks!
Excellent video. Thank you for these tutorials. You've inspired me to pick up fencing.
Do you have any recommendations or tips when selecting a starter rapier?
Thank you Charles! Good choice of hobby!
I would suggest a Regeneyei (www.regenyei.com/), a Danelli (www.danelliarmouries.com/index.php/basic-swords/49-basic-rapier) or a Darkwood rapier (www.danelliarmouries.com/index.php/basic-swords/49-basic-rapier). There are many other smiths but these are usually rated amongst the best.
There are also some cheaper smiths but you can either expect the weapon to be too heavy or not suited for safe handling.
Thank you for your reply Martin. I'm going to pick up 2 Darkwood Economy Hilt Rapiers. As a beginner, would you recommend I get closed front or ring hilt? Is there an advantage to the ring hilt vs closed front?
I would recommend to get what you like:) But in general closed hilts provide more protection and are safer for sparring and competition. Ring hilts are IMO nicer
Makes sense. I wasn't sure if there was a discernible difference in handling from closed to open hilt. I'll go closed for training and open when I decide to get a nice blade in the future. Thank you for your time Martin. I look forward to your future videos.
Charles Crawford Glad to help! And thank you for watching!
That 2nd guard is interesting.
Excellent video, guys. Is there a technique used for when you're bound with your opponent' and he's strongly controlling the center line with the point somewhat up, preventing you from gaining the blade and using leverage? It'd be a technique similar to "Duplieren".
Hi! Yes there is, as I've already replied to you in the other video -
Fabris shows "yielding to pressure" in the plate number 111, book two - rule number one - (tinypic.com/r/20fcl6p/9)
He gives 2 examples - one is when opponent breaks measure and parries, you just yield to the pressure and go from the outside with the second or that you can start from the outside and transfer to the opponent's armpit ("below the right arm").
I have questions. Where do the rapier start to lose its support when in the cross? Do both the sides and the cutting edge lose support at the same spot? Do you practice the cross?
Hi! I must say that unfortunately I'm not familiar with "the cross". I've checked your videos and have seen you have a few about the topic but I do not practice it. Generally in fencing the old masters do not prefer such handwork; either they push or disengage straight to the target depending on the type of the bind.
It's my third or fourth time watching this series. Now I have a question:
0:55 - I have a question about that part - why shouldn't I lunge in seconda from just standing in seconda? I know in some unarmed martial arts it's good to turn wrist in the moment of attack to apply more force, but
1. in fencing doesn't it put your point off the target, therefore risking to miss the attack?
2. do I need that extra force? I mean, shape of rapier's blade makes it deadly enough for me :)
This applies to all rapier guards, really. Assuming a guard will prompt your opponent to counter it with a guard of his own. If he does so properly and you remain in your initial guard, then lunge, you will run into his sword. Changing into a guard at the last second serves to deceive the opponent into using the wrong counter, failing to stab you and getting stabbed instead.
The momentum of the 4th -> 2nd(or 2nd -> 4th) movement is serves to constrain the opponent's sword forcefuly, so that he can't panic-parry your thrust at the last minute.
Also, if you aim for the upper body and practice to keep your piont on target, the risk of missing will become negligible.
Y