Finally found answers to so many questions. No one ever seems to address the transition from waterproofing to drywall. Thanks so much, it’s been boggling my brain for months on how I am going get that seam smoothed out.
Thanks for showing us how it’s done (right). Your attention to detail is amazing. How many contractors don’t put sealant over the screws!?! Finished product looks wonderful. Thanks for posting this.
as a side note, another good option for the tub flange on the plumbing wall where you can't fir it out is to cut a "channel" out of the back side of the foam board. Since it only needs to be ~1/2 the thickness of the board, and maybe 1" tall, it's plenty rigid for all but the smallest tiles (where more than 1/3-1/2 of the tile's height will be on the thinner part of the Goboard. In other words, with a 1" tall channel, as long as the tile is at least 2.5"-3" tall where 1/2-2/3rds of that row of tiles is on the full thickness board, you're fine).
Currently having our bathrooms remodeled and ran into the problem of walls not being squared out around the tub. Watching your video is helping in figuring out how to fix it. 🙌🏼
And just like that you answered one of the issues I’ve been deal with. Thanks for addressing which issue is a problem that needs correcting and which issue is within tolerance.
A couple questions: 1)if thinset isn't waterproof, how can it be used to attach the kerdi band? 2) What do you use to seal the gap from goboard to ceiling? Thanks!
Wild. I did Goboard on my shower and it's crazy how similar our installs were, right down to using Schluter pipe/mixing valve guards and kerdi band between the Goboard and drywall 😂 only difference is I also used the Goboard fiberglass tape on outside corners and the inside corners of my niche.
Thank you for this great video. There is one thing I'm confused by and need confirmation on if anyone can help. Most instructions say to leave 1/8" to 1/4" of a gap above the tub deck when placing the GoBoard to prevent water wicking up and destroying the walls. This gentleman installed the GoBoard right to the tub deck. May I please have confirmation of which way is the correct way? This gentleman is highly knowledgeable so I'm inclined to set my GoBoard right onto the tub deck as he did in this video, but this is a huge job for me and I really don't want to mess it up so I just need to confirm before doing if anyone can help me out. Thanks so much.
Great video! You are a great teacher. Not sure if you parted ways with the other guy at bathroom repair tutor but you got all my support. Thanks for what you do!
Thanks! Appreciate that. It’s been a lot of work doing everything, but ultimately I think editing and doing the work will force me to improve, 😆. Hope Jeff is keeping up with the members on bathroom repair tutor. If you have a questions on anything in the library or anything let me know. 👍
In your opinion what is the best water proofing system for showers? I'm currently using prova board, prova system. However I know guys who've been using cement board/den shield with liquid membranes for 20 years with no issues.....and it's a quarter of the cost. I'm not going to lie it has me thinking about switching.
how far past the stud did you mount your shower head female adapter? I'm struggling with figuring out the depth it should be at so it's not too far in for spouts
I'm not sure about GoBoard, but with HardieBacker and RockOn, many professionals say to not extend the bottom of the board to the tub itself. Any water settling on the surface of the tub will eventually make its way to the board and slowly get absorbed into the board. Any thoughts about why that's not an issue here?
Great video.....Go Board seems to be difficult to get at moment, Floor & Decore have a product called Sentinel...... any experience with that....... or other alternative to the more expensive Schulter boards?
Yes. There are two types. One is integrated and one type where its separate and can be placed in a mortar bed or buy a slanted pan. Here's a great site that has them displayed nicely www.masterwholesale.com/wedi-fundo-riolito-neo-modular-shower-system.html
after furring out studs my Wedi board will be proud of the existing sheetrock 3/8- 1/2 " how do you address this? (seal joint Wedi to drywall) I plan on setting tile about 2 " past tub and using pencil trim up the side of that. I'm also going to install 1/2 shiplap vertical against one side, floor to ceiling and 4' high w a 1x2 cap (wide side level) opposite wall. i thought of adding a 1/2" or 3/4 cove the rest of the way to hide the offset.
Can you drop it right onto the deck like that? I thought you had to have a 1/8 gap from the top of the flange, waterproof that gap with alkali tape and then drop the finished material over to 1/8 of the deck, then waterproof.
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher Dang. I've already installed mine above the flange and going to seal them like some others have done. It overcomes the edge by 1/4in. For finished surfaces, I'm doing a solid wall system (Transolid) and I wish there were more examples of their installations. I'll basically get the same effect since it will essentially be on the deck as well.
Holly quac! I am about to do my first GoBoard tub surround just like this and am not sure how I did not see this video before. Another BRT gold worth production for sure! Although I rewinded couple of times I still don’t get it, when installing kerdi-band over the goboard/drywall transition, did you use mud or thinset? Could not decipher just by looking at the pan. For what I understand kerdi-band over foam board one should use thinset but you mentioned drywall mud. 😵💫 Thanks in advance Steve!
Awesome job and great way explaining. One question I had was, is that thin set or sealant you used with the Kerdi Band on the go board drywall transition. Have looked at all your other videos and I can’t seem to catch what it was you were using.
🙏 and yes,it’s thinset. You could use kerdi fix as well, but that’s a more expensive way to do it. Thinset works great, just be sure it’s mixed to a loose consistency (wettest ratio allowable to thinset manufacturers specs) 👍
I have two questions regarding Go Board,; is it extremely itchy as others have said and if tiling the ceiling above the tub, should I use Go Board as well or is purple board good enough? Thank you for the video.
It is itchy, and some people may have more of a reaction than others. Drywall ceiling is fine if you have a normal ceiling height and a good vent fan. Nothing wrong with using on ceiling and tiling though 👍
The answer I yes. You always want a “waterproof” backer board behind your tile, even if using waterproof membranes or liquid apply membranes, and then always want to use 100% silicone to seal gaps between any transition of plain (wall to floor, wall to wall, ceiling to wall, etc…). Hope this helps
Yes, when you fur out the wall enough to allow board to overcome it. Otherwise hold above flange so it does not bellow out. Depending on waterproofing you use, most likely you will then fill gap with sealant and/or a sheet membrane 👍
@@AlexSanchez2254 it depends on if all the framing is correct. If it doesn’t need modified too much, typically 2-2.5 hours This one took about that long. I typically account for 1 day for waterproofing floor and walls in a normal bathroom
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher great, thanks for answering questions. You’re videos are worth gold.! Appreciate the time you put in. I know the video editing and whole RUclips thing is a job of its own. It’s a lot of work.. I say it from experience.
The transition between the drywall and the furred out studs around the tub surround, how did you compensate for that? I know I've heard somewhere you saying to fur out the whole wall in some instances, but the wall with the toilet, how would that not affect the closet flange and the toilet being spaced properly away from the wall? Like, let's say the closet flange is spaced at 12" away from the wall, and now you added the furring strips, it might be 11.25 or 11.5 inches away, won't that affect how the toilet will go back on after the drywall has been finished?
Very good point to think through. 11 1/4” is the turning point for moving into a 10” rough-in toilet. At least with my experience of primarily American standard toilets. 👍
A bit late of a response I know, but by roof I assume you mean the ceiling. The ceiling appears to be the same moisture resistant drywall/gypsum sheetrock as the rest of the room. Typically they make the moisture resistant drywall a different color like purple, it was green at one point I believe and now they tend to be more of a lighter blueish/purple.
I can't believe so many so-called professionals think that you're supposed to rest the board flat on the tub. The flanges there for a reason. Your tile can go all the way down but furring out the studs is not how you're supposed to do it. Having the space between the tub and the board creates a place for water to dry if it does get in there rather than get wicked up into the backer board. Many flanges even have a lip specifically to catch the board. And the flange is not holding your board up your screws in the wall are. After go board is up then just run your tile down to about an eighth of an inch away from the very bottom of the tub.
I’ve always seen/heard not to set the backer board all the way onto the tub or shower pan, because of water absorption . I guess this only applies to cement board type applications?
Yes, it primarily pertains to cement board and definitely hardy backer. If you use those on tub deck water can absorb up wall. This is go board a waterproof foam board. So no issues being in tub deck. But a 1/4” bead of sealant is required 👍
I don’t believe they came out with them when I did the project last summer. Plus it’s a bit overkill. They have these screws for it that work well www.contractorsdirect.com/70007657-goboard-fasteners-hi-lo
What screws are you using here? Can’t find goboard screws anywhere aside from $50 for a box. It doesn’t appear that you are using their screws in the video. Can you recommend a decent substitute?
@@jasonkaminski6230 I used just normal backer board screws the cheap green ones from HD.... Ive watched others used them just make sure you install al the correct depth. i havent had any issues with my three bathrooms so far....
@@jasonkaminski6230 If your talking about the screws for the tub flange with the washers. I used 1 inch construction screws very easy , the washer and screw isnt holding any weight if you installed your tub correctly so its basically just holding it in place so im sure any type of screw would work since it wont see any moisture if everything is done right.
Same question, other videos recommend use of washers since surface is so easy to break with a screw. I always use washer and helps to secure the board tight to the studs.
Ya fir'ing our all the studs is a waste of time and money imo. Standard to run the hardi board or kerdi board backer flush on the studs and seal the bottom waterproof membrane and tiles. Faster and better imo.
I like what you do and the way you think and plan. I do not like the fact that your safety glasses just stay on top of your head. Bad image. They have a purpose. You are using tools and doing activities which could easily cause severe eye injury. Speaking as a former commercial construction safety officer.
I’ve torn out dozens of bathtubs with failed wallboard due to placing the wallboard on the tub and not on top of the flange, the chances of a homeowner maintaining the integrity of the silicone caulk between the tile and the tub is slim to none. When it is not maintained the wallboard sucks up the water and you have failure and mold behind the wall. I disagree with your practices and would never recommend them.
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher yes and yes but that doesn't change the fact that the sealant will eventually fail, I also use foam board but I treat the exposed edge with denssheild or something equivalent. I did it your way for years and over time I realized it failed sooner than it should. ANSI also recommends doing it your way but most of the newer tubs I am installing say to do it my way, to each his own!
Please elaborate why this is wrong when using foam board which doesn’t absorb moisture. I agree with you when using cement board but I’m not following your logic here. Educate me please.
@@maikwho take a small piece of foam board and leave it in a bucket of water for a while and see what happens, better yet, look up “tile coach” on you tube and watch the tests on dozens of so called “water proof” products that fail when tested. I’m not trying to piss anyone off, I just want to build the most bulletproof product I can. Even using foam board, thin set is not waterproof and will absorb water if it gets wet. Sharing knowledge and experience is how we learn.
Ive done hundred of tubs and showers and ive done it both ways and never had a single issue... If the tilejon is good and water tight it doesnt matter much whats behind it.
@@kennanlynn4977 I totally agree with you. In fact, the Delta Classic 500 shower pan is recommended and designed for the backer board to rest on the top edge. I think what it boils down to is following the manufacture’s instructions because each may be different. there is no such thing as a one size fits all method.
@bgomez3 thank goodness I just read this. I've been trying to figure this out with my delta tub and I couldn't find any information on it. The delta tub plans are pretty terrible because they don't show the flanged lio in their plans
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Finally found answers to so many questions. No one ever seems to address the transition from waterproofing to drywall. Thanks so much, it’s been boggling my brain for months on how I am going get that seam smoothed out.
Thanks for showing us how it’s done (right). Your attention to detail is amazing. How many contractors don’t put sealant over the screws!?! Finished product looks wonderful. Thanks for posting this.
Your video is giving me the confidence to tackle this myself!
as a side note, another good option for the tub flange on the plumbing wall where you can't fir it out is to cut a "channel" out of the back side of the foam board. Since it only needs to be ~1/2 the thickness of the board, and maybe 1" tall, it's plenty rigid for all but the smallest tiles (where more than 1/3-1/2 of the tile's height will be on the thinner part of the Goboard. In other words, with a 1" tall channel, as long as the tile is at least 2.5"-3" tall where 1/2-2/3rds of that row of tiles is on the full thickness board, you're fine).
Currently having our bathrooms remodeled and ran into the problem of walls not being squared out around the tub. Watching your video is helping in figuring out how to fix it. 🙌🏼
This video has been extremely helpful! Keep these longer ones coming... tons of info in them!
You sir are a hero! This was the beat how to video on goboard i have seen!
And just like that you answered one of the issues I’ve been deal with. Thanks for addressing which issue is a problem that needs correcting and which issue is within tolerance.
Awesome, yeah getting things within reason allows you to be quicker at the installation. 👍
Thanks!
A couple questions: 1)if thinset isn't waterproof, how can it be used to attach the kerdi band? 2) What do you use to seal the gap from goboard to ceiling? Thanks!
Wild. I did Goboard on my shower and it's crazy how similar our installs were, right down to using Schluter pipe/mixing valve guards and kerdi band between the Goboard and drywall 😂 only difference is I also used the Goboard fiberglass tape on outside corners and the inside corners of my niche.
What did you use to stick the shluter band to the goboard and drywall?
22:48 so do you skim coat the part of the kerdi membrane with drywall mud to hide the fleece texture before painting?
Thank you for this great video. There is one thing I'm confused by and need confirmation on if anyone can help. Most instructions say to leave 1/8" to 1/4" of a gap above the tub deck when placing the GoBoard to prevent water wicking up and destroying the walls. This gentleman installed the GoBoard right to the tub deck. May I please have confirmation of which way is the correct way? This gentleman is highly knowledgeable so I'm inclined to set my GoBoard right onto the tub deck as he did in this video, but this is a huge job for me and I really don't want to mess it up so I just need to confirm before doing if anyone can help me out. Thanks so much.
Great camera work!
Great video! You are a great teacher. Not sure if you parted ways with the other guy at bathroom repair tutor but you got all my support. Thanks for what you do!
Thanks! Appreciate that. It’s been a lot of work doing everything, but ultimately I think editing and doing the work will force me to improve, 😆. Hope Jeff is keeping up with the members on bathroom repair tutor. If you have a questions on anything in the library or anything let me know. 👍
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher thank you!
I always tape the tub to keep it clean of thinset, sealer or grout.
I hope the excess of sealer was cleaned at the end.
I had a similar problem as you with valve wall but I drilled holes in the tub flange and screwed it that way and butted goboard to the flange. 🤷🏼
what size brads for adding the blocking? and for the shims?
Have you ever put the kerdiban down on the tub flange area? I swear I saw a video of you doing this.
In your opinion what is the best water proofing system for showers? I'm currently using prova board, prova system. However I know guys who've been using cement board/den shield with liquid membranes for 20 years with no issues.....and it's a quarter of the cost. I'm not going to lie it has me thinking about switching.
how far past the stud did you mount your shower head female adapter? I'm struggling with figuring out the depth it should be at so it's not too far in for spouts
Go board v something like guru or schluter??
gorgeous. Looks like the goboard is a much faster install. Is the waterproofing as good as kerdi?
What about the very top near the ceiling, does that need sealed?
This will change your life.
I'm not sure about GoBoard, but with HardieBacker and RockOn, many professionals say to not extend the bottom of the board to the tub itself. Any water settling on the surface of the tub will eventually make its way to the board and slowly get absorbed into the board. Any thoughts about why that's not an issue here?
He's been doing it wrong for some time, apparently, and now teaching others to do it wrong as well.
Wouldn’t the difference be the goboard is waterproof and won’t wick like cement boards will?
Great video.....Go Board seems to be difficult to get at moment, Floor & Decore have a product called Sentinel...... any experience with that....... or other alternative to the more expensive Schulter boards?
When do you use cement board instead of drywall?
What type of sealer you used ?
Is there a wedi system for curbless linear drain ?
Yes. There are two types. One is integrated and one type where its separate and can be placed in a mortar bed or buy a slanted pan. Here's a great site that has them displayed nicely www.masterwholesale.com/wedi-fundo-riolito-neo-modular-shower-system.html
You tile up to the edge around the valve flange?
after furring out studs my Wedi board will be proud of the existing sheetrock 3/8- 1/2 " how do you address this? (seal joint Wedi to drywall) I plan on setting tile about 2 " past tub and using pencil trim up the side of that. I'm also going to install 1/2 shiplap vertical against one side, floor to ceiling and 4' high w a 1x2 cap (wide side level) opposite wall. i thought of adding a 1/2" or 3/4 cove the rest of the way to hide the offset.
With existing 1/2” board in place, you’ll have to leave on tub deck and fill gap ruclips.net/user/shorts_1ELKPhOL_8?feature=share
Is there an alternative cheaper but effective sealant you can recommend other than goboard sealant?
Hydroblok, less than 10 dollars per 10oz tubes., or 20 oz. sausage cartridge for around 17. Easier that GoBoard one.
Can you drop it right onto the deck like that? I thought you had to have a 1/8 gap from the top of the flange, waterproof that gap with alkali tape and then drop the finished material over to 1/8 of the deck, then waterproof.
It’s foam board 👍 nothing wicks
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher Dang. I've already installed mine above the flange and going to seal them like some others have done. It overcomes the edge by 1/4in. For finished surfaces, I'm doing a solid wall system (Transolid) and I wish there were more examples of their installations. I'll basically get the same effect since it will essentially be on the deck as well.
Holly quac! I am about to do my first GoBoard tub surround just like this and am not sure how I did not see this video before. Another BRT gold worth production for sure! Although I rewinded couple of times I still don’t get it, when installing kerdi-band over the goboard/drywall transition, did you use mud or thinset? Could not decipher just by looking at the pan. For what I understand kerdi-band over foam board one should use thinset but you mentioned drywall mud. 😵💫 Thanks in advance Steve!
Thinset application for the kerdi membrane
Drywall mud over the remaining sticking out past tile
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher Much appreciated! 👊👍💪
How soon can you start tiling prior to waterproof stage
Awesome job and great way explaining. One question I had was, is that thin set or sealant you used with the Kerdi Band on the go board drywall transition. Have looked at all your other videos and I can’t seem to catch what it was you were using.
🙏 and yes,it’s thinset. You could use kerdi fix as well, but that’s a more expensive way to do it. Thinset works great, just be sure it’s mixed to a loose consistency (wettest ratio allowable to thinset manufacturers specs) 👍
Appreciate it!!! Your awesome at what you do. Keep putting out great content it’s VERY HELPFUL 👊🏼
Our baths in UK typically dont have flanges.
U don’t have to caulk the waterproof sealer where the goboard meets the purple drywall?? Thanks!! :)
Not if you are adding kerdi band like I did here ruclips.net/video/X93JNDaXR50/видео.html
Would you or could you use RedGuard over the top of GoBoard prior to tiling? Great video and much appreciate your teaching!
you can, not necessary but if u want more insurance go for it
I have two questions regarding Go Board,; is it extremely itchy as others have said and if tiling the ceiling above the tub, should I use Go Board as well or is purple board good enough? Thank you for the video.
It is itchy, and some people may have more of a reaction than others. Drywall ceiling is fine if you have a normal ceiling height and a good vent fan. Nothing wrong with using on ceiling and tiling though 👍
Question if you put a tub surround in that screws directly to studs do you still need waterproof backer board
The answer I yes. You always want a “waterproof” backer board behind your tile, even if using waterproof membranes or liquid apply membranes, and then always want to use 100% silicone to seal gaps between any transition of plain (wall to floor, wall to wall, ceiling to wall, etc…).
Hope this helps
What sealant are you using?
The board goes over the flange ?
Yes, when you fur out the wall enough to allow board to overcome it. Otherwise hold above flange so it does not bellow out. Depending on waterproofing you use, most likely you will then fill gap with sealant and/or a sheet membrane 👍
How fast does it take for you to install your go boards and waterproof all walls to be ready for tile?
@@AlexSanchez2254 it depends on if all the framing is correct. If it doesn’t need modified too much, typically 2-2.5 hours
This one took about that long. I typically account for 1 day for waterproofing floor and walls in a normal bathroom
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher great, thanks for answering questions. You’re videos are worth gold.! Appreciate the time you put in. I know the video editing and whole RUclips thing is a job of its own. It’s a lot of work.. I say it from experience.
The transition between the drywall and the furred out studs around the tub surround, how did you compensate for that? I know I've heard somewhere you saying to fur out the whole wall in some instances, but the wall with the toilet, how would that not affect the closet flange and the toilet being spaced properly away from the wall? Like, let's say the closet flange is spaced at 12" away from the wall, and now you added the furring strips, it might be 11.25 or 11.5 inches away, won't that affect how the toilet will go back on after the drywall has been finished?
Very good point to think through. 11 1/4” is the turning point for moving into a 10” rough-in toilet. At least with my experience of primarily American standard toilets. 👍
Quick question, will thinset stick to sealer?
I’m wondering the same thing!
how long after installing go board or wedi in my case do you have to wait to install tile?
You can set tile in about an hour after sealing. The sealant just has to dry. I often start tiling same day too 👍
Thanks for info
do you use the go board for the roof? if not what do you use for the roof
A bit late of a response I know, but by roof I assume you mean the ceiling. The ceiling appears to be the same moisture resistant drywall/gypsum sheetrock as the rest of the room. Typically they make the moisture resistant drywall a different color like purple, it was green at one point I believe and now they tend to be more of a lighter blueish/purple.
I thought they said to Never place the backer board over the lip . Keep it above the lip ? So water doesn't wick up ? ??
everybody on YT except this guy says to keep it off the flange, which makes sense. but hey it's your money not his.
So did you cover the go board with a water proof membrane?
No. That’s the point of go board, it’s waterproof.
I always do just to have an extra barrier.
Where do you buy your Go board polyurethane sealant?
Boards, sealer, washers, etc at Lowe’s
I can't believe so many so-called professionals think that you're supposed to rest the board flat on the tub. The flanges there for a reason. Your tile can go all the way down but furring out the studs is not how you're supposed to do it. Having the space between the tub and the board creates a place for water to dry if it does get in there rather than get wicked up into the backer board. Many flanges even have a lip specifically to catch the board. And the flange is not holding your board up your screws in the wall are. After go board is up then just run your tile down to about an eighth of an inch away from the very bottom of the tub.
It’s foam 👊
I’ve always seen/heard not to set the backer board all the way onto the tub or shower pan, because of water absorption . I guess this only applies to cement board type applications?
Yes, it primarily pertains to cement board and definitely hardy backer. If you use those on tub deck water can absorb up wall. This is go board a waterproof foam board. So no issues being in tub deck. But a 1/4” bead of sealant is required 👍
How come you didnt use the metal washer with the screws? goboard and schluter all use washers with it dont they?
I don’t believe they came out with them when I did the project last summer. Plus it’s a bit overkill. They have these screws for it that work well www.contractorsdirect.com/70007657-goboard-fasteners-hi-lo
What screws are you using here? Can’t find goboard screws anywhere aside from $50 for a box. It doesn’t appear that you are using their screws in the video. Can you recommend a decent substitute?
@@jasonkaminski6230 I used just normal backer board screws the cheap green ones from HD.... Ive watched others used them just make sure you install al the correct depth. i havent had any issues with my three bathrooms so far....
@@jasonkaminski6230 If your talking about the screws for the tub flange with the washers. I used 1 inch construction screws very easy , the washer and screw isnt holding any weight if you installed your tub correctly so its basically just holding it in place so im sure any type of screw would work since it wont see any moisture if everything is done right.
Same question, other videos recommend use of washers since surface is so easy to break with a screw. I always use washer and helps to secure the board tight to the studs.
Ya fir'ing our all the studs is a waste of time and money imo. Standard to run the hardi board or kerdi board backer flush on the studs and seal the bottom waterproof membrane and tiles. Faster and better imo.
I like what you do and the way you think and plan. I do not like the fact that your safety glasses just stay on top of your head. Bad image. They have a purpose. You are using tools and doing activities which could easily cause severe eye injury. Speaking as a former commercial construction safety officer.
👍 🙏
Why the hell is the electric wiring ran with the pipe
That was my question too. Besides not being legal it is dangerous.
I’ve torn out dozens of bathtubs with failed wallboard due to placing the wallboard on the tub and not on top of the flange, the chances of a homeowner maintaining the integrity of the silicone caulk between the tile and the tub is slim to none. When it is not maintained the wallboard sucks up the water and you have failure and mold behind the wall. I disagree with your practices and would never recommend them.
It’s foam board. And did you happen to see the thick 1/4” bead of sealant on tub deck before setting board?
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher yes and yes but that doesn't change the fact that the sealant will eventually fail, I also use foam board but I treat the exposed edge with denssheild or something equivalent. I did it your way for years and over time I realized it failed sooner than it should. ANSI also recommends doing it your way but most of the newer tubs I am installing say to do it my way, to each his own!
Please elaborate why this is wrong when using foam board which doesn’t absorb moisture. I agree with you when using cement board but I’m not following your logic here. Educate me please.
@@maikwho take a small piece of foam board and leave it in a bucket of water for a while and see what happens, better yet, look up “tile coach” on you tube and watch the tests on dozens of so called “water proof” products that fail when tested. I’m not trying to piss anyone off, I just want to build the most bulletproof product I can. Even using foam board, thin set is not waterproof and will absorb water if it gets wet. Sharing knowledge and experience is how we learn.
@@rattown99densshield looks like another foam board. What product would you seal the bottom edge of GoBoard with before install?
This is how IT IS DONE. If you see a guy installing backboard on top of the flange and not in front of it HE HAS NO CLUE WHAT HE IS DOING. PERIOD.
I disagree, just had a shower fail that had the board over/on top the flange
Ive done hundred of tubs and showers and ive done it both ways and never had a single issue... If the tilejon is good and water tight it doesnt matter much whats behind it.
@@kennanlynn4977 I totally agree with you. In fact, the Delta Classic 500 shower pan is recommended and designed for the backer board to rest on the top edge. I think what it boils down to is following the manufacture’s instructions because each may be different. there is no such thing as a one size fits all method.
@bgomez3 thank goodness I just read this. I've been trying to figure this out with my delta tub and I couldn't find any information on it. The delta tub plans are pretty terrible because they don't show the flanged lio in their plans
@@bgomez3should understand why they recommend it, maybe it is right with right reason, maybe they are not making sense.
He is so nasty. He scratched that tub all over. Typical American worker🤮🤮🤮
It’s an Americast tub. Pretty tough to scratch actually 👍
Typical illegal, dropping anchor babies, leaching off the system, while getting paid under the table and not paying taxes.