Why you should NEVER cast off in the same direction as the tide-do this instead.
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- Опубликовано: 19 июл 2023
- I see all too often boats of all types and sizes casting off down tide or with the tide 'under' them and never have I seen one successfully manage it. It is surrounded with failure from the moment you have cast your lines and with no escape route available, it's a bad day out.
This video shows the best way to cast off from a dock or a mooring by applying a simple thought process and using the tide to your benefit. This method hopefully help you to continue to enjoy boating in a safe and fun way. I am not a cruising instructor but this is based on my personal experience.
The all important point is that you need water flow over the rudder before you have steerage. that's why you always manoeuvre into the tide.
If you found this video helpful then please consider giving me a thumbs up and subscribe for more. It's a good indication to me that this type of content is worth making and will continue to make this type of content.
Happy and safe boating! Ollie-Boated out
If you get any thing out of my videos and would like to support my channel, then you can find a link to my PayPal in the link below-It does cost a bit of money to make these videos and I’d love to be able improve my equipment to make better videos. If it’s not for you then that’s cool. I’m just happy to have you along for the ride! Thanks again, see you in the next video⛵️
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I’m wondering about prop walk. Our boat in reverse will naturally walk the stern to port. I’d love for you to address this issue. I wish power boaters would have to watch these sailing videos, they have no idea how difficult it is to maneuver a sailboat in a marina.
Hi thanks for the comment and bringing up another great point- prop walk. So recently I was in the same situation in a long keel smack. Although the opposite, I was moored starboard side to, with prop walk to starboard. The rudder would begin to pull the stern out once it caught some flow. But as soon as the revs went on it walked back into the pontoon. At this point my next option is to attach a bow or a mid ship spring. Let the tide drop the boat onto the spring. Not too much, just enough to pull bow in and stern out. It’s then crucial to release spring (slip) and power astern at the right time so that you can begin to move away from the mooring before the tide has swept you round. You’d be moving away diagonally and the tide will sweep you round astern as you move into more open water. Once clear of the pontoon, you don’t need the boost of power so can drop the revs a little, ready to go ahead bow into tide. Bigger boats seesaw side ways down our river until they make it round. Drifting side ways down the middle of the river is a regular sight. I’d practice slipping the spring earlier so that if you hadn’t quite projected enough stern, into the tide, it will prop walk back to the pontoon. I always bring my slip back to cockpit to handle solo. I will demonstrate exactly this method in a video soon, this original video doesn’t factor in, wind, keel and props. I hope this helps and thanks for raising the point thus expanding the topic. ⛵️
You might care to consider how difficult it is to manoeuvre a single screw flybridge cruiser in a marina…
The amount of windage I have is probably akin to your Genoa fully unfurled.
Oddly enough many power vessel skippers can sail yachts too….
I've manoeuvred a single screw flybridge motor yacht - anything more than a light cross wind and you've got problems, give me a keel and low freeboard anytime!
Buy a yacht.
@@PhilbyFavourites I have to agree, 25 years sailing yachts and a qualified YM, we sold up 6 years ago, but now take a week once a year on the Norfolk broads. First time was an embarrassment, big time! With a little rudder, and a single prop things did not go well to start. Oh how I wished for a big deep keel to pivot on, oh how I wished for a big spade rudder I could 'feel' the water flow on (and know which way it was pointing).
Very nicely explained and demonstrated. Nice audio and picture quality. Good edits, captions and music. Great video!
That’s great to hear, thank you so much. Really appreciate it. 👍⛵️
I started sailing as a young man many years ago. Long keels, no thrusters and transom hung rudders. How did we manage? A great video watch and learn, you only make the same mistake once.
Another great how to video I have been sailing since the mid 80s and even I have picked some great tips up from you just go to show your never to old to learn new things keep up the good work 👍
Thanks for your comment! That’s great to hear! Makes it all worth while to hear comments like this. Never too old and actually I don’t think you can ever stop learning. Happy sailing!⛵️
I ran a charter schooner and our slip always had water going the wrong way. Directly behind her was a busy car ferry to make it more interesting. Taught us how to handle a boat real quick lol.
Awesome, that must have kept every one on edge. No room for error there then. 😁⛵️
Great vid! more how to ones please! You do a great job explaining things in a relaxed manner. Thanks.
Thanks so much for the kind comment and for your suggestion. If there is any thing in particular you’d like me to try cover please do let me know. 😁⛵️
I watched a boat traveling in a canal with a strong current. When he went to turn into a basin off the canal he slowed his engine as he realized his speed was fast. This shifted the flow across his rudder and when he turned left into the basi the boat turned right into a sandbar. He was perplexed about why the vessel acted opposite to his command 😂
I’ve seen simmilar many times. Hopefully they learned from their mistake. I always prefer to learn from other peoples mistakes rather than my own!😁⛵️
I have a thought the broaching at the crest of an overcoming wave might be partly due to this same reason.
Read about a US destroyer broached during a fierce Pacific storm during the WW2: so broaching with no sail up - what else could be the reason?!
Superb, very well explained.
For those long keelers out there, with limited steering astern. The same rules apply, however you will find you will instigate a turn away from the pontoon almost immediately if you're not very careful.
Bilge keelers have a similar issue, for as you pull away from the pontoon, the outer bilge keel is exposed to the faster current which in turn causes more drag, again putting the boat into a reverse turn away from the pontoon.
Either way, no problem, just keep on turning until you are headed into the tide.
Relax, take your time and when you're ready, turn round again in the centre of the flow and head off.
Thanks, some good additional info there regarding keel type too. 😁⛵️
The choice for the long keeler is to stay until the tide turns or reverse out and when clear drop the anchor midstream to drag the bow round. Difficult for one person to do and you need to have some room for that manoeuvre.
The thing with a long keeler when you reverse is that whatever way she goes look as though you meant it.
Every time you say "tide" my mind says _CURRENT_ ! It is fascinating seeing the difference between single handing with a basic grasp of physics and mob-handed vessels making a pigs ear of basic maneuvers with a crew of headless chickens!
Docking can be a nightmare with the wrong skipper and a serene blissful joy when one is alone.
Fair point, I guess At the age of 39 and a lifetime of sailing I’ve always just referred to it as tide, wether it be the range or the speed/ direction. Probably an old habit. I can’t say my r’s very well either so I do avoid them when I can!😂thats’s right, simple physics, planning and thought process mitigates the risk of things going wrong in my opinion. I often see people over thinking and over complicating situations. Crew management is another thing. 😁
@@boatedout My first sea voyage started with the owner/skipper of a beautiful 64' wooden yacht slamming into the fuel dock and splitting the planking. I was crew. After that I would string the rail with fenders and cast loops over bollards/cleats with a boat-hook. I just treated it as if I was single handed as _all_ the responsibility was mine anyway. To this day I consider that best practice and if there's a capable pair of hands onboard they can watch or help but no stress either way. One of the hardest things to deal with is people on the dock who think you need their "help" and take all manner of dangerous risks to try and get themselves involved.
Fair winds.
@@dancarter482 Ouch! I completely agree, I think skippers appreciate a crew that is on it, in case they make a mistake, takes a little pressure off them. Reminds me of a proud moment actually, taking a beautiful 15m Dutch yacht through the Crinan canal, I was crewing for the owners. We all had branded shirts on with the boats name, as we went into the last lock before exiting, it was on a bend, the port bow was about to crunch into the concrete, I was there with a decent fender and could foresee it happening, dropped the fender in just the right spot and it rolled all the way down the port bow as I walked it back and it guided the boat round into the lock. With many onlookers admiring the boat. I was asked on all of their sailing trips after that, sailing round Iceland and the Faroe Islands, later south France. If I’m putting fenders out I always make sure one is spare just incase. Couldn’t agree more about people on the dock trying to help, my friend suggested I cover it in a video, but it’s a minefield. I think mastering the art of politely turning down help is a great skill to have in the back pocket. But also how people like their lines to be made off, instead of some one catching your line and making it fast and walking off, which is not much use. I always loop through, and give back to the boat. That way they can adjust/ slip if need to. Recently I was sailing onto my mooring, with plenty of ‘current too’😁 a visiting yachtsman, who was towed in by the lifeboat the day before, and moored next to my berth said “I’d better take your lines then”. I politely declined, he then watched on and I felt like he was hoping id cock it up as he started stuffing his face with snacks and getting comfy ready for the entertainment to unfold. Never did I doubt myself. The worse ones are people on the dock start telling you what to do. Or showing you how to tie up. I reckon there are a lot of videos that could be made covering this. As long as every one is having fun and it’s safe, I’m all good. ⛵️
Thanks for these ,just started watching your videos ,very informative with great demos for someone with a similar size boat and who is also mostly solo ,cheers J
That’s great thanks for letting me know. What boat do you have?
Elegant presentation and advice. Elegant boat handling too. Might not be so much fun for deep keel boats but still right advice but just more caution and space around the boat.
Thanks a lot for the comment, appreciate it. I will be covering different keel types soon as it’s come up a lot in the comments, so it’s a great point to raise. Normally we would peel out and round in astern to end up bow into the tide. Skip the stemming astern part. Of course it’s easy in my little boat. 😁⛵️
A great lesson that I hope watchers will extend to bridges. I live on an island surrounded by draw bridges, and have one on the water immediately behind my house. I see sailboats and larger cruisers all the time, and when the current rips it's a little sketchy. People try to baby that boat through the gap, and lose steerage. Most catch on quick and apply some thrust to regain steerage, but sometimes it's a little late. There have been a few strikes, but so far nothing worse than some rash on the boat (the bridge has independent piers and walls to protect it).
You can always tell a pro: they maintain reverse thrust enough to hold place while the bridge opens, then they blow their horn, apply thrust, scream "ramming speed" and shoot the gap. You can time an opening, but we have two bridges about three miles apart. Cannot easily time them both. Sometimes people get stuck out there a while. Another problem with an island that has draws on both ends, is coming up the intra-coastal during a tidal move means you will end up with current to your stern and your bow, just a few miles apart.
Can make for some entertaining days, sitting on the dock. They are replacing our bridge with a tall monster that can take 90 foot sails, with a gap span over 120 foot. So our entertainment will end in a few more years.
Hi, thanks for the comment and for the enjoyable read. Sounds like you live in an interesting place, with plenty of entertainment. And front row seats too by the sound of it. Do they actually scream “ramming speed”?😂I always enjoy watching others manoeuvring, quite often I’ll see something interesting and add it to my bank of things to try. Shame they are taking away your entertainment. 😁⛵️
@@boatedout They don't yell "ramming speed" but once or twice the kids and I have as we watched them from 500 yards out. There is something neat about watching a 50 foot cat go from stationary to 8-9 knots in a short distance, just to disappear behind a bascule and see nothing but the mast for a few moments. Did they make it?
Yeah, they are yanking the low bridge and putting in the big one. The local folks are all up in arms, but honestly it's going to make my view that much better. I cannot even see the opposite shore north of my house, and the headlights crossing the bridge blast my second floor. The new one will be a long span based on some award winning designs, have nice concrete sculptures, blue lighting and high enough that we will see more water than we do now. Honestly, it's going to be beautiful. Plus safer, because the wider span will end the logjam of boats waiting to get through.
Liking your channel. Thanks for your work.
You've taught a good lesson, I learned the hard way.
My girlfriend redlined the engine and let go of the tiller (I was at the bow preparing to cast off), and it locked hard over. I had to jump off, and kick the damned rudder free. In her defence, it wasn't our boat - which had a steerable outboard, and gave us very good control unless the bugger stalled.
Thanks for the comment, wow that sounds a bit nerve racking, some times the hard way is the best way right? Yes out boards and stalling! Clean fuel is the key. And running the carb dry after use. Something I obsess about😄⛵️
@@boatedout So did I, but to no avail.
It was a really old engine, a Chrysler from the 1960s. I put in a Mariner 15hp which made her go like the Space Shuttle, but some maggot slammed into it when she was at her mooring and completely destroyed the leg. Rebuilding the Chrysler was the only way - long legs were rare..
I've only owned a small - 23' yacht. I wonder how far you can go with an outboard.
@@twentyrothmans7308 blimey that’s an old one then! I’d be gutted if some one did that to my motor. Great little motors the mariner 15, I’ve got a mariner 20 on my little rib. A Yamaha 8 hp 2 stroke on Elise. She got me through the tss in the North Sea when I crossed! And gets me in on a 4/5 knot spring ebb on the east coast of England. Absolutely love it. 😁⛵️
Thank you. Very helpful. Always more to learn.
Pleasure, thanks for taking the time to comment. I don’t think you ever stop learning! 😁⛵️
Great. I'm going to keep following.
Awesome thank you! 😁⛵️
Great technique thank you for sharing!
The pleasure is mine. Thanks for the comment. Really appreciate it. ⛵️
Its nice and easy leaving a pontoon. What would you do on a fore-aft mooring with ropes in the water? I like to stay in neutral until my prop is clear of the ropes.
Excellent tutorial, thanks!
Awesome! Thanks for taking the time to comment. Appreciated. 😁⛵️
Well done. I understand!!
Awesome!⛵️
Outstanding tutorial!
Thank you very much!😁⛵️
Excellent advice and very convincing video! Good to know though, that outboard at the very stern of the boat makes this a good deal simpler as the whole boat is "hung" to the current in an optimal manner. Boats with a more centrally-located prop in front of the rudder such ss seadrive or straight axle need closer attention as they "oversteer" more easy with backwards current. From the top of my head I'd say it would be ambitious to try anything but reversing by steering carefully out of the dock and do the rest of the manouvres further in the open water. Having an option to return to the dock would not be as easily controlled as on this video.
Hi thanks for the comment. I would completely agree with you. I also agree that the option to return to dock will have been closed off if the turn has already been instigated due to over steering. At least you will be moving into more open water while peeling out, than going flat out ahead down the side of the neighbours boat!😁 And with a fin keel she will happily swing to follow the rudder. So good and optimal control astern. Unlike a twin keel or long keel with a barn door rudder. I do find that long and twin keels catch the current earlier and instigate a turn much sooner when astern into the current and is still the only option where I am located. I’m going to demonstrate this In 30foot plus boats soon. So hopefully will include the valuable points you and others have made. Lots of good points being raised about this topic. Thank you for taking the time to put forwards your wisdom. Comments like yours add a lot of value and help to expand on the subject. ⛵️
Great nice and easy to follow thanks
Awesome, you’re welcome! 👍⛵️
Excellent video.. Well explained 👏👏👏
Thank you! Really appreciate the comment!😁⛵️
You can also get immediate control with using the engine as a trust vectoring
Yep...same principal with an aircraft (when taking off....ALWAYS into the wind)
Very clearly explained and shown!!
Thumb + subscription!
Regards and greetings, Henk, Dedemsvaart the Netherlands.
Awesome thank you Henk, it means a lot⛵️
@@boatedout I used to sail a lot with my (late...) father and always enjoyed it!!
I hope to go sailing once again,purchased a Laurin Koster 28 recently.... due for a serious refit....
Now since two days sitting on my trailer I hope to get things done before I am ‘over date’....
Kind regards,Henk!!
Great video with clear instructions. Think i may have a problem doi g this wjth mine. I have a Leisure 23sl. The outboard is central on the transom and directly aft the rudder. When i put engine astern the thrust catches the rudder and violently swings the rudder and tiller to one side. Its almost impossible to hold it central. Move the tiller even a fraction and it pulls to one side onto a full lock. Any ideas on how to overcome this?
Have same on SJ24 in my club. Going back, solution was to keep the tiller low, and press it against your hip (or upper tigh) You steer then by moving your hip (keeping pressed against it) rather than hand. This way I could get quite a fine control reversing (and we reverse into our slips from rather far along the fairway)
Its going to work differently with an inboard motor, not the outboard.
Very well explained and presented. And you make an important point, having moved out into the stream and intending to travel downstream, about checking that it is safe before committing to changing from going astern to going ahead through the water.
But isn’t there an alternative, especially if the stream were even faster? Could you not just reduce power, continuing to go astern through the water but slightly more slowly and let the stream carry you downstream. This also has the advantage that, if you needed to slow down or stop over the ground, you could increase the power astern, and not have to go back through the region of no steerage way?
Reply
Hi, thanks for your kind comment and for raising the point. I think it’s important to keep in mind that different keel/prop/rudder configurations have different handling characteristics.
For example: Twin and long keels may not be able to make way in astern with full control, and quite often, the current can instigate the turn a soon as you cast off from the dock/pontoon. In which case you’ve skipped the “no flow zone” and are already now into the stream. If needing to point the other way just turn around. This will most likely be the common situation. And is my answer to you regarding the alternative. The turn is done much earlier than demonstrated here.
So with that in mind stemming the tide at very low speed astern might not be a practical method of making way ahead. However, in my boat, with the stern hung outboard, she will go astern nicely with very little flow over the rudder. But add a bit of wind on the beam and the Bow will be blown off therefore the current will instigate the turn. So generally, if you haven’t already been forced to turn in astern due to current/wind and keel type, and you find your self in the centre of the river still stemming the tide, it might just be time to get going in ahead and appreciate having completed the manoeuvre successfully.
I hope this answers your question. And I’m sure you know all this info. So, sorry if I’ve covered some old ground here. I will be covering and expanding this topic in future videos as lots of points raised. Such as yours. So thanks for contributing to the topic. Ollie ⛵️
Turn the boat on wraps so the bow is into the river current and cast off normally and make your turn. You may find it easier.
Hi, thanks for your comment.
Turning the boat around could be a good option should the conditions and environment allow. In this case, handling a vessel beam on to the tidal flow by its warps on my own would be very risky in a small boat let alone a big one so I do not recommend it. I've seen it go wrong too many times. The moment I ease that stern line and the stern catches the tide, I have cut off all of my options and i'm at the mercy of nature. It's an all or nothing manoeuvre. You also need to ensure the berth down stream is clear too.
I am a firm believer in that what ever you do on a boat- make sure it opens up options and that it doesn't close your options off.
For me, The way I have demonstrated it in the video is the easiest and safest way. I use this technique in boats up to 40 feet in length solo. Leaving in astern is ideal because as soon as the current catches the rudder you start to move out into the river. I am also able to easily slip the lines whilst maintaining control on the helm. It is also useful on a lee shore. There is also less to go wrong so it doesn't require such a detailed escape plan for when it goes wrong. I've kept lots of options open and I can bail at any point.
Of course there are situations for when turning the boat around is useful and depending on the conditions and environment such as- little to no tidal flow, in a tight spot in a marina. It is definitely a good topic and I will give it a little more thought so thanks for bringing it up. Perhaps it could make a good video.
I believe boat users should not be afraid of operating in astern and that you have just as much manoeuvrability, if not more, when in astern. So the need for elaborate risky manoeuvres are not necessary and most importantly don't rely on people coming to your aid mid manoeuvre because you cut off all your options in your escape plan, because you were afraid to leave in astern.
But the key point that I've tried to get across in this video is that what ever you do, never leave the berth in the same direction as the tidal flow. It's not about what direction you are facing in relation to the tide. It's the direction you set off in.
Ollie
@@boatedout Ollie. thanks. I am wary of this comment though... "I believe boat users should not be afraid of operating in astern and that you have just as much manoeuvrability, if not more, when in astern". I own a long-keeler (cutaway forefoot), a Union Polaris 36, and if I go astern at any steerable pace, the helm gets very heavy indeed. Also, if I hit something going astern, her 11 tons will smash the rudder. My boat is slow to answer the helm anyway, and slower still going astern. I have never tried to turn her on warps when i am alone. I always call for help. Visits to a river are very rare, thankfully. Fair winds.
Hi, sounds like a lovely boat. At least you know what happens when In astern on your vessel,as vessels behave differently depending on keel type/ prop walk etc. Perhaps I should add that knowing the capabilities of a vessel in astern is a key element to manoeuvring this way, being comfortable knowing the behaviour and characteristics. Obviously there are many elements to consider. I think that I’m just encouraging people to know how their boats behave in reverse and to be able to use that to their advantage to mitigate risk of incident. In our harbour visitors are advised to turn their boat around before berthing so that they are pointing the right way before they leave. When the smacks come in, they often run their bow into the bank and let the tide bring the stern around. I often sail a 30 foot smack that only will steer the way the prop will walk it. Heavy helm too. The rudder isn’t enough to bring the stern out into the tide, especially if the prop is walking it back into the mooring. I’d attach a bow spring then and drop into it to get the stern out, then reverse out and peel round. Unfortunately In our harbour that’s the only only option if you find the stern pointing into the current when eager to head out for a sail. But all too often I’ll see people go flat out ahead and graunch down the side of the boat on the neighbouring mooring. Don’t get me wrong I’m learning all the time and open to new ideas and methods. So thanks again for mentioning it. You have a really valid point about about the keel type. Where are you based? All the best. ⛵️
Same principle as aircraft taking off into the wind.
You say no steerage before you gain some speed.. true, but could you use the engine bursts and the screw inducted flow over the rudder to steer?
Hi, thanks for the comment, I’d say you are spot on there, and another very good point which I’ll add to a future video. Lots of points been raised already about prop/ rudder/ keel configurations so a few more vids coming up. I guess my boat configuration is good for demonstrating the “no flow zone”. As the prop isn’t inline with the rudder. Although better at reversing, not as good for the flow inducing burst an inline config would have. I’ll cover this at some point I think. Thanks for raising and adding value.⛵️
Does this work with a fuller keeled boat (Rival 36)? She doesn’t go backwards at the best of times!
Hi thanks for the comment. Lovely boat by the way. Yes it should work in the same way, the principle is the same. As mentioned in some comments oversteering will likely be the main issue, which instigates the turn much sooner. It doesn’t really make a difference if you try stem the tide to move away from the pontoon or peel out as the tide starts to bring the stern round. Just lots of throttle in reverse to pull away. Some times the issue can be projecting enough stern out into the current for the current to begin pulling you around. If the rudder isn’t enough on its own when hard over. In which case I use a bow spring just to put the bow into the dock which will put the stern out a little, you most likely know that. Sorry for teaching you to suck eggs. Then whip the spring off as you power in reverse. I plan to do a video in a long keel next week with the bow spring. Our harbour is particularly tricky and this method is the only way if you find yourself moored stern into the current. As long as you can make way in astern. You will just drift with the current sideways and when you reverse across the river and have enough room ahead, go ahead and get the bow into the tide. Then turn around to head downstream again if need be. Hope this helps.⛵️
No kidding!
Absolute claims involving "never do this" may make good clickbait, but they're generally bad advice because they're naïve and they encourage naïve thinking.
It's really only the title that's the problem in this video. The content is pretty good, because it gets into the WHY of steerage way right from the start. From that we can reason about when it makes sense to go against the current and when it doesn't.
For those of us who sail off the hook, there is often no choice but to go with the current, especially if we're lying head to wind and current as is usually the case.
The best we may be able to do against the current is to tack up past the anchor, using our way to break out the anchor and maintain steerage. If there is sea room ahead, and we can maintain way, we may be able to tack our way out. If not, we will be jibing around, as a second best case. Third best would be drifting beam on to the current until we can gather steerage way, even having to reverse the rudder in that we are for the moment essentially hove to while travelling with the current.
This last alternative is much the same as breaking out while at a standstill. There has better be ample sea room downstream! But often that's exactly the case. After all, streams tends to flow out of embayments, not into them. Here the current will initially be flowing aft past the rudder, so it should be possible to work the vessel slightly alongside the anchor before it breaks free. Typically the jib will have been raised in stops, and then can be instantly broken out to leeward once the anchor is atrip. The boat develops additional way as the bow swings around, thus it's never entirely adrift, and the operation is well controlled.
That's the best case for a downstream departure. Much less desirable, the third best case, is for the bow to swing over the anchor before breaking free, so that it may be snubbed back and end up lying head to current. If the jib is broken out in this attitude, the boat may be completely adrift, or even develop reverse way, requiring reverse helm to correct its attitude. If there is adequate sea room, this is merely embarassing for a moment. Otherwise, it can be disastrous.
So the SECOND best case is to carry the cable around to the stern of the boat and raise the anchor in that attitude with the jib standing by and ready to be held out if it doesn't fill on its own. There is a definite reverse stream over the rudder until the anchor is clear, and even then a tendency for the current to drag at it, so there can be some very unfamiliar movement until the jib pulls well and forward way begins to develop.
So much for the easy case of sailing off the hook. When sailing off a dock, the vessel should first be warped around head to stream. With a suitable following wind and a relatively light vessel, it may be possible to leave the dock almost laterally and immediately begin working upstream. This the best case. In the second best case, the boat swings out and around while being carried downstream, before slowly gathering way.
Note that both of these cases go directly against the advice in the video, as it must be assumed that the boat may be carried downstream. It's wise to lead a spring line forward from the quarter, both to hold the boat in station at the dock and to assist in swinging it out. The bow line must be eased before the stern, so that it can swing out and allow the sails to develop lift sufficient to mitigate the current. The stern is then cast off, trusting to the spring line, and finally the bow line. Transom hung rudders are vulnerable to this operation.
The third best case is to kedge out until the boat is effectively lying to anchor, then proceed accordingly.
1 knot of boat speed is one knot of boat speed the 4 knots is Speed over ground you will still have steerage with 1 knot
That’s correct, if I set off in same direction as the current. I’d need to be doing 4 knots SOG to get 1 knot through the water with a 3 knot current.
Good video but very boat dependant. Zero chance of success on my boat. Long Keel twister with very limited control in reverse. I would always warp the boat round and leave forwards. Warping becomes second nature after a little practice.
With longer keel or bilge keel boats I normally use a bow spring to get the stern out into the current then reverse out as soon as the current starts to bite, the current will take the stern round as I reverse out, buy he time I get side on to the current Im normally half way across the river. It’s the only way to do it really in our river. I agree, forget stemming the tide in astern and all that. But the principle is the same. I will be doing a video in a long keeler soon. That doesn’t steer at all in astern. Literally have to spring the stern out and then go for it. You know your own boat so I won’t question it. Twister 28? Nice boats.😁⛵️
good advise thanks mate ! Cheers
Pleasure, thanks for the comment.⛵️
Try that with a long keel onboard
I often do it in a long keel although I use a bow spring to get the stern out into the current. Once stern is into the current I try stem the tide astern but often will just take the stern around which works for me quite well. It’s often the only way in our harbour because we have pontoons either side. I plan to do a video just for the hell of it. ⛵️
What in your opinion ,the best flavour of pot noodle?
Now we are talking!😀it’s got to be beef and tomato. But I haven’t tried many others. How about you? Any recommendations?😁⛵️
Not all boats will steer in reverse. Some long keelers, not at all.
Completely agree. Im going to cover the same scenario In a long keel soon. 😁⛵️
You have ignored keel type. Try doing that with a long keel.
Yes it’s all to come. Long keel just peel round in astern as the the turn is instigated very early on as soon as the current catches the stern. Same with twin bilge.
could just end for ended the boat on the mooring , its fin keeler turn on sixpence
Hey thanks for the comment, this was suggested in another comment- it’s not always possible to in our harbour, as there is only 2 m between the neighbouring mooring. So you’d end up along side the neighbour potentially. Also it’s not some thing I would want to do in strong currents especially in a bigger boat. In my opinion it’s easier to back out than end for end. But definitely a good safe option if conditions and space allow. 👍⛵️
Only if you have room fore and aft.
he has 6' in front And behind !@@ianscott3180
I just wouldn't trust my outboard in reverse like this , its not fixed up fo this manoureve .
inboard yes it makes sense @@boatedout
Walk in the park, try the same on trot moorings with 3kn of tide on your stern.
Hi thanks for the comment. This video is supposed to be easy. I see so many boats try pull away down tide and collide with neighbouring boat. So this is all about casting off safely.
You’ve raised a good topic. I can only think you mean picking up a fore and aft mooring? Give me a bit more of the scenario and I’ll cover it. Only time I’ve struggled on a fore and aft mooring is wind against spring tide solo, 30 foot twin bilge keel and picking up the second buoy. Thanks again for raising and expanding the topic.
Your video is very good: clear and instructive.
Try fore and aft mooring, same tidal rate wind on the beam.
@@bowman26 awesome, I’ll cover that one at some point as I know many sailors regularly use those type of moorings, and as you say not always easy. Solo right? Happy with a 30 foot twin keel? 😁⛵️
@@boatedoutYes, coming off a bridal mooring with the tide on the stern.
I’ve had my 26ft long-keeler on such mooring for a few years - casting off always with a healthy portion of trepidation.
That would be current. Tide is the level of the water.
Tide can be used to refer to both height and speed/direction. To look up that speed, you would use a tidal flow atlas/chart for that area. Ultimately, that chart will give you a tidal flow direction and speed. Tidal curves and charts used to calculate depth of water at a given point.
Unless of course he's so far up river that it's not tidal, but as another comment already points out, he's in Southwold.
I can’t say my r’s 😁⛵️
Is that Southwold?
Yes it is, well spotted.😁
@@boatedout You might know of a boat that i bought there a year last may blossom a Dutch steel cruiser on the Very last mooring on the side you were on he was a fisherman there's a fishing boat there now i think if you know him say hello she's all painted up now looks grand she does cheers and thanks Pete
@@wef.rubbish4714 yes I know Blossom, I remember when you bought her. Great to hear she had a new life. Where did you take her? I remember it was quite a way? Will pass on your regards to Paul.
@@boatedout Cornwall helford river!