Holy shi..... I just changed mine and your video helped me a lot unlike others, where they telling you a story and not getting to the point until 15 minutes later...
Thanks for this quick video. This was a really simple replacement. Other videos show you to remove the serpentine belt in order to get to the bottom hose. You do not have to do that. Just be careful when sliding the thermostat housing under the wire that is fixed over top of it. There is not much room to work with.
thanks for taking the time and energy for the video, it was really helpful. i'm still not getting warm air so based on the comments below (also very helpful!), i will work to clear out any more air bubbles.
Draining the radiator first thing makes this job a lot less messy. Also be sure to thoroughly clean up the hosing mounting surface before re-installing housing to insure o-ring is adequately compressed.
I used part # TA2860S. I picked it up locally at Advanced Auto but AutoZone could special order it to the store too. Mine came fully assembled with new everything, housing, thermostat, temp sensor, new gaskets (for temp sensor and the bottom outlet that butts up against the block). Only parts I reused were the three long 8mm mounting bolts. Searching Amazon for the same part # TA2860S, some don't have a new temp sensor so **beware**
Replace the sensor on the bad wheel. Odds are whoever changed your tires last damaged it. Its easy to mess it up especially if you dont realize it's there. Mine keeps coming off inside the tire and you can hear it bouncing around. They arent cheap so I'm over it.
quick question. i need to change the coolant sensor because my temp guage is fluctuating. Even after replacing the radiator, thermostat and fan clutch. Is that the sensor that on the housing? if not do you know where it is?
San Diego Sky Chaser hi, you have air pockets , maybe in the engine block and/or the heater core. You need to bleed the cooling system of the air bubbles.
I have a question at the end when you put the antifreeze are you overfilling the radiator itself to clear out the bubbles. for me since I do not have that huge funnel that you have is it ok for me to just fill the radiator all the way start it up and when all the bubble is gone just refill it back up the rest of the way and it'll still be fine.
Jay McGill hi Jay, you can do that but do it for 10-15 minutes until no more bubbles, then turn off car. Let the engine cool down without the cap. After 3-4 hours, fill radiator put cap on and start car. Drive around neighborhood, keep an eye on the temp gauge. If it goes up up and down. Engine still has air pockets Let engine cool 3-4 hours, fill radiator again. Test drive and you should be good.
Jay's answer is perfect. The way I do it though is I fill the rad and wait for the thermostat to open. It will suck in a large amount in to the engine block and you'll visually see an instant drop of level. At that point, top out back off and cap it. Depending on how far you drive on the daily, check the rad and burp can after a few miles after it cools and top off until you just can't top off anymore. I'm old school, used to work for Mac's Radiator in Bellflower and that's the way we did it.
Fix It Angel I’m stuck on what took you less than a second - setting temperature switch... I can’t seem to get it to seat all the way in to allow me to put the retainer clip back in... any tips? I told my wife I could do this, any help appreciated
Throwing a bone out there . Water pump replaced and coolant drained from radiator. No clogs and clean. Coolant wont circulate and thermostat looks brand new but was in 2 pieces
Martin Ramirez yes you need to bleed it. Try waiting 2 hours to let engine cool down. If coolant went down, fill it. If still overheats, repeat procedure again
Ok cause my gange showing my thermostat wast opening so idk bit ill bleed it. Do i take some water out after i over fill it? And the ac goes from cold to hot
Martin Ramirez this is more simple. Just drive the car for 10 minutes, till engine is hot. Then park car for 2 hours. Let the engine cool. When it’s cool, open radiator cap. Fill the the radiator. Test drive car. If car still overheats. There is still air pockets in the engine. Repeat the procedure against
Holy shi..... I just changed mine and your video helped me a lot unlike others, where they telling you a story and not getting to the point until 15 minutes later...
Thanks for this quick video. This was a really simple replacement. Other videos show you to remove the serpentine belt in order to get to the bottom hose. You do not have to do that. Just be careful when sliding the thermostat housing under the wire that is fixed over top of it. There is not much room to work with.
The stealership is wanting $450 to do this on my moms explorer, I’ll be doing it tomorrow for around $100, thanks for the video!
Just ordered mine. Settled for the whole freakin thing including new sensor, from Rock Auto, $50 bucks. Better than paying hundreds for the mechanic!
Drain about 2 gallons of the anti-freeze out before removing the thermostat housing or the hoses! The animals will love you for not poisoning them!
Best straight to the point video. Only question is, does it matter which port on the top of the housing assembly the thermostat sensor goes into?
thanks for taking the time and energy for the video, it was really helpful. i'm still not getting warm air so based on the comments below (also very helpful!), i will work to clear out any more air bubbles.
Thank you for the info and quick fix
Thanks for the vid. Even though I replaced the part it turned out to not be my leaking issue. Appreciate it
I have the same weeping of coolant at the temperature sensor. Where did you get the O-Ring/Gasket?
Draining the radiator first thing makes this job a lot less messy. Also be sure to thoroughly clean up the hosing mounting surface before re-installing housing to insure o-ring is adequately compressed.
I used part # TA2860S. I picked it up locally at Advanced Auto but AutoZone could special order it to the store too. Mine came fully assembled with new everything, housing, thermostat, temp sensor, new gaskets (for temp sensor and the bottom outlet that butts up against the block). Only parts I reused were the three long 8mm mounting bolts. Searching Amazon for the same part # TA2860S, some don't have a new temp sensor so **beware**
Thanks for making and sharing this awesome video!
question, I replaced mine and when I started it I have knock that sounds like a horse galloping what could I have done.
Thank you for the answer how to clearly showing it.
so wat yr explorer is that? my 04 duznt have a radiator cap
Ty sir , now how to get rid of the tire sensor fault
Replace the sensor on the bad wheel. Odds are whoever changed your tires last damaged it. Its easy to mess it up especially if you dont realize it's there. Mine keeps coming off inside the tire and you can hear it bouncing around. They arent cheap so I'm over it.
If its only blowing cold air when place on heat its always the thermostat? I just changed the heat valve and it didnt fix it.
Could be your blend door actuator broken
quick question. i need to change the coolant sensor because my temp guage is fluctuating. Even after replacing the radiator, thermostat and fan clutch. Is that the sensor that on the housing? if not do you know where it is?
San Diego Sky Chaser hi, you have air pockets , maybe in the engine block and/or the heater core. You need to bleed the cooling system of the air bubbles.
So is this why the guage is fluctuating? The heater is working fine. Takes some time to get hot but it does get really hot.
San Diego Sky Chaser when the engine is cooled down. Fill coolant into the radiator. Do that a couple times until you don't need to add anymore.
Thank you much. I will share with you how it goes.
San Diego Sky Chaser welcome, it should work.
I have a question at the end when you put the antifreeze are you overfilling the radiator itself to clear out the bubbles. for me since I do not have that huge funnel that you have is it ok for me to just fill the radiator all the way start it up and when all the bubble is gone just refill it back up the rest of the way and it'll still be fine.
Jay McGill hi Jay, you can do that but do it for 10-15 minutes until no more bubbles, then turn off car. Let the engine cool down without the cap. After 3-4 hours, fill radiator put cap on and start car.
Drive around neighborhood, keep an eye on the temp gauge. If it goes up up and down. Engine still has air pockets
Let engine cool 3-4 hours, fill radiator again.
Test drive and you should be good.
Jay's answer is perfect. The way I do it though is I fill the rad and wait for the thermostat to open. It will suck in a large amount in to the engine block and you'll visually see an instant drop of level. At that point, top out back off and cap it. Depending on how far you drive on the daily, check the rad and burp can after a few miles after it cools and top off until you just can't top off anymore. I'm old school, used to work for Mac's Radiator in Bellflower and that's the way we did it.
How about placing the coolant system on a vacuum? That's what I do. You'll never have to bleed a coolant system again.
The screws on my housing are rusted on there (bought the truck used) you think WD40 would help?
try rust penetrant instead of wd40
Thank you so much
Does anybody know the name of the hose he pulls out at 1:17 mine is leaking from there
I have an 09 Ford Sport Trac and it looks like it's leaking coolant from somewhere at the thermostat housing.
Now it's leaking again...i guess I have to get a different kit
such skill to do it all one handed 😂
Thank you!!
Fix It Angel I’m stuck on what took you less than a second - setting temperature switch... I can’t seem to get it to seat all the way in to allow me to put the retainer clip back in... any tips? I told my wife I could do this, any help appreciated
Fix It Angel and just like that... I ask the question after struggling for over an hour and, voila, it just works...
Thank you very much
Throwing a bone out there . Water pump replaced and coolant drained from radiator. No clogs and clean. Coolant wont circulate and thermostat looks brand new but was in 2 pieces
I change my housing, radiator and thermostat and still over heatinh is that because i need to bleed it?
Martin Ramirez yes you need to bleed it. Try waiting 2 hours to let engine cool down. If coolant went down, fill it.
If still overheats, repeat procedure again
Ok cause my gange showing my thermostat wast opening so idk bit ill bleed it. Do i take some water out after i over fill it? And the ac goes from cold to hot
Martin Ramirez no don’t take out any coolant from the radiator and don’t overfill the radiator reservoir.
So just by the cap and then start it? The resivore shoes cool and wen i have it on for a while it fills to hot
Martin Ramirez this is more simple. Just drive the car for 10 minutes, till engine is hot. Then park car for 2 hours. Let the engine cool.
When it’s cool, open radiator cap. Fill the the radiator.
Test drive car. If car still overheats. There is still air pockets in the engine.
Repeat the procedure against
Is this called an upper thermostat housing?
Hi, I think it's just called a thermostat housing
Fix It Angel . Thanks. i got it done. the housing kit has thermostat in it. took 30 minutes to get it done. not too bad a job. on the 09 sport trac,
Engineering similar to this cost us a space shuttle and many lives.
No company greed cost them their lives. The engineer told him the O ring was gonna fail company president told him to f@#$ off🤷♂️
Where's your little helper.
Hi Charls, this was done a year ago. I think my son was inside watching or playing video games. LOL
Dodge ,jaguar,chrysler ,and ford has this PLASTIC housings, NO thanks im glad i got a chevy there aluminum
Dark as fuck poor lighting
plastic- another shit idea from ford. this engine sucks so bad