Sony PS1 optical drive laser repairs
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- Опубликовано: 24 июл 2024
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Taking a look at a very unhappy PlayStation, this time we focus on the laser.
Catch the first part here: • Sony PS1 no audio trou...
🛍️ Tindie store: www.tindie.com/stores/theretr...
🛠 Tools and kit: / tools-and-kit-77570017
💬 Discord: / discord
😎 Ad-free, early access: / theretrochannel
🔗 SCPH-9000 Service manual: archive.org/details/PlayStati...
🎞
0:00 Intro
2:10 Sled cleaning
6:52 Sled lube
9:49 Spindle motor
13:43 Testing
15:22 Focus issue
20:41 Fixed?
24:08 Cleaning the mirror
27:24 Wobble
29:20 Time for plan B
32:05 Final test
33:44 Audio CD and MM3 modchip
36:40 RGB CRT outro
🎞
Thanks for watching! 
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This was a great two-parter. The good news about 'junk' 9000 and slim units with dead drives is that rama's upcoming mStation ODE will work on them.
This is great. I’ve always considered laser issues “too hard basket” but you’ve given me inspiration to tackle my ever growing collection of dud laser PS1s.
It is also possible to just buy a new replacement laser and spindle assembly. If all you want is a working machine, that's a way. If what you want is to actually tinker and fix, no. No fun in slapping in a new one. But it is an option.
the replacements are cheap too. only $13-$15 each. you could also think of modding it with a sd card reader instead of the disc drive.
Too hard basket means what in English please
@@overused6632 it’s the basket where you put all the cases that are too difficult 😂
Excellent video. The 'Tubes is oversaturated with people blindly POT tweaking their lasers. I'm actually relieved to not see this here. The worst part about these is the ribbon not being interchangeable. I wish they'd have made this portion more serviceable. Great job on this.
Nice work mate. The PS1 was a real upgrade from my humble old A500 back in the day, played that thing to death.
Thanks! I pretty much followed your lubrication guide and now my PSX reads audio CDs. Prior to that the corroded sled motor was not even rotating and the spindle motor crackled quite a bit. The old lube on plastic gears was out or completely dry. Used transparent silicone lube for it and sewing machine oil for the motors.
Those PS1 lasers can be so fickle, and I had a similar case like yours where I cleaned, and re-lubricated everything, and eventually when I got a third party laser, some lubrication was all it needed, and it's going two years rather strongly. I didn't expect it to even last several months, but a little pre-maintenence on that one went a long, long way, and still works like new!
My first gen PS1 is still rockin hard. Skips from time to time but still reading, still travelling smooth. I played it all the time, it was powered on at least 95% of the time for years. Love me some playstation lol
My goodness the memories you have brought back this morning are intense as it has been probably close to 20 years since i worked on one and like i say i may have opened a good double figures a day back then for mainly modding.Maybe i should see what i still have and have a play.Thanks again.
4:38 THANK YOU. I was clicking on this expecting yet another dumb "laser adjustment" BS video to throw in the dislike bin, but from that section alone it shows you (at least superficially, haven't watched many of your videos yet) seem to know what you're talking about :D
Also the entire drive mechanism for any PS1 (including the slim PSone) are generally compatible with each other, the only issue is cable length on one of the middle-of-the-era models (7002 i think? where it's absurdly long), but flex cable extensions exist for those. Last time I looked, a whole drive assembly is somewhere around 10-12eur from CN. Keywords to search for on ali or elsewhere are KSM-440ACM/ADM/AEM/BAM (with yours being a 440AEM as visible at 5:15 ). And yes, the slim PSone drive (440BAM) can be used in older models if you switch out the gray plastic cover with a black one, as it's the only part that's physically different. It's common to replace the original bad drives of the SCPH-1002 (100x, the first one with direct RCA jacks on the back) with a slim PSone 440BAM drive, as it's pretty much a drop-in replacement other than the grey cover, and the original SCPH-100x drives are pretty much all worn beyond repair (metal laser on plastic slide surface right next to the power supply that makes the plastic softer via heat. great design there sony... NOT. It's also the reason why on later models the drive points the other way, away from the PSU heat).
Little "secret" to test if the guide rail is worn before you even open the console: put a disc in, flip the console upside down so it rests on the drive door and turn it on. if it reads the disc fine that way but not the right way around, the rail is worn and it's essentially scrap. And wow this ended up as quite a wall of text 😅 sorry
Thanks a lot! This video really helped me out to fully fix the reading issues of my PS1! (And it's also very relaxing to watch, like all the other of your videos).
I remember going from my Sega Mega Drive to the PS1 and I still have it in the original box on a shelf, think I need to give it a run after watching this series. Great Video Mate.
Really enjoy your videos and troubleshooting
Just discovered your channel. Your perspective and methods were refreshing; I can actually say I learned a thing or two. The design of that laser relying on plastic in such a manner is disappointing. I currently do identical work on OG Xbox's - especially the DVD drives, which information was relatively scarce.
About 6 out of 13 OG systems I resurrected/restored required pot adjustments to get the DVD drive mostly reliable, which bothered me to no end, as none were relegated to parts and no compromises otherwise had been made. I refused to believe the oft-repeated "yep bad laser" statements, which just lacked substance.
Started learning a lot about capacitors, purchased an in-circuit ESR meter and started testing. Every single DVD drive I tested, I found significantly out of spec caps. All 4 manufactures. Thomson, Samsung, Philips, Hitachi. All 5 models I had on hand, SDG-605B, SDG-605F, GDR-8050L, VAD6035, TGM600. No DVD was safe nor tested well - Not even the fabled "best drives".
I'd recommend ESR testing/recapping the mainboard - wherever the capacitors involved with the disc drive dwell. They're likely starting to identify as resistors. You can also temporarily drop their ESR by applying heat. Since these pots are analog and fixed to the value they're set at, they do not compensate for increased ESR and the drive just stops functioning as it's no longer being adequately driven. If you do recap, i'd recommend tweaking the pot to ensure you're not feeding the laser too much. Wouldn't by a bad idea to check the output of the PSU as well, make sure it's within 5% tolerance. Heart of the system.
At the moment I adjust pots the hard way... Start with "high" resistance (relative) and work my way down. I gauge their performance by... Their ability to read discs, play seamless video content off a DVD, and the speed it takes to fully rip an entire game to the HDD - all while listening to the drive closely for audible struggling, error correction kicking in.
I convinced Console5 to start carrying kits as well. Last time I checked, they still needed work, but progress none the less. If you'd like to know more, I've got numerous reddit threads such as "Update #7 - DVD Recapping Capacitor Lists Complete".
If you happen to upgrade your oscilloscope, i'd love to see a video regarding how to use it to calibrate the potentiometer. It's one tool i've been putting off, unlike my recent voltage injection/thermal camera additions which have taught me even more.
Thanks mate. Some great info in there and yeah I agree it might be a good idea to check the ESR on the caps, especially the ones related to the ODD and in the PSU.
I do hope to get a better scope, but that might take some time. But when I do we will definitely see a laser adjustment video
Good job , very well done . I’m going to be checking mine out. It sat for years and now it don’t work, it was working good. It was connected to power but I rarely used it. It does have a mod chip so I’m going to check that as well
Thank you so much for your very helpful video.
I was struggling fixing a PSX bought
Used which disliked a lot of games.. and now it reads all of them. Still have to sort a bit of skipping on some of them.. but cleaning and lubing everything and cleaning lens and mirror(prism) did the trick! I also boosted a little bit the laser pot and become even better. I am so happy!
Thoroughly enjoyed the video, i'm certain this will help me somewhat in the future and no doubt plenty of others too! Subscribed 👍
A great video, with a successful outcome. Well done.
Really nice video. Tkz
Just subbed I find this relaxing and interesting to watch and learn
16:21 Watching that little laser look up and struggle against the plastic is like something out of a Tool music video.
Parabola
Today Sir. u have gained a subscriber!.
I'm in kind of a same path trying to revive my old ps1 and I've encountered a similar point with mine.
at first it worked perfectly but the next day the spindle made a grinding noise. and since then it wont boot games at all.
now Im trying to get white grease or some sort of lubricant friendly enough to not fuck it up even more but Im faily certain that is the spindle doing the problem instead of the lens. either way u explained as simple and straight forward as possible and Im pretty grateful for your job, cause so far it's been really hard to get accurate data or practical data on the matter.
Im too broke to support u on patreon but who knows, maybe tomorrow I would.
Regards
Great video buddy..
Excellent! 👍🔝
you might be able to fix that plastic problem on the laser carriage. try using some speaker wire, thin braid, lay it out next to itself, parallel, then use the glue at the ends, not on the hinge, that might help it flex freely. (glue on wire, wire: === (hinge)(no glue)(use ipa to clean that section ) === :wire (glue on wire). hope that helps?
I had an SCPH-1001 that laser didnt work, so i bought a new laser, and the laser struggled to read disc, then i did a FULL recap of the main board, and now the laser can read anything you trow in! So its important to do a full recap of the console to keep it working flawlessly
I have a 1002 that struggles to read discs, I swapped the laser for a known good one and even after setting the bias and gain correctly it still struggles although slightly less. Maybe a recap will help, but I wouldn't say a full recap is always required. The early boards may benefit more due to them being older, running hotter and likely having more hours on them.
@@TheRetroChannel that’s what happened to mine, new laser, spent hours and hours fixing the damn bias and gain 🥲 it was the caps lol since they are old I went and changed all the caps with electrolític ones since they are better than those smd
Great repair! Always good to have "spare parts". Maybe it's time to take a closer look at my good old SCPH-1002 (with the additional RCA jacks for video and audio). A first testing with the Demo 1 CD a year ago shows, that it works fine at the beginning, but get's more and more stutter and read errors, the longer the Playstation is on! 🤔
The 1002 console has a defect plastic sled for the laser assembly which makes it out of focus and it gonna stutter a lot or not play at all, the only way to save this laser is to shim it where this wear occur with some thin metal strip or just simply use a new laser assembly which is the exact same in the slim model or the PS-One so to speak, if you have a broken ps-one you can use that whole laser assembly with little to no modification to the 1002
Shim.... does anyone sell these? If not, any recommendations for the metal to buy???
@@user-tn8bz1eu3b unfortunately no, however I can provide further information about this problem. If you have the problematic laser in the first generation console you can test if you have the worn out sliding tray by inserting a game and put the console face down instead, if your game loads and plays fine with the console upside down your issue is in the worn laser slider.
If your console works upside down you can try to find a thin metal strip to place beneath the laster where this slides against the plastic to build up the worn plastic again.
This is not a very easy thing to do but if you find what you need and glue a small trip in place making the laser come up straight again it should work to play normally again.
Otherwise you can actually replace the laser on this model using the PS one slim console laser as they are identical to the first model.
Great video, only thing is when lubricating plastics you should use silicon grease. Lithium grease decays plastics.
I'm sure there are some lithium greases that could harm plastics, but the one in using (mg chemicals 8461) specifically states it is safe on plastic
@@TheRetroChannel right on I use MG Chemicals silicon grease (8462) and that worked good too!
Nice. I might pick up some of the 8462 silicon and give it a try
You should take a break and visit out in the states.... VCF mid-west in September! 🙂👍
Got similar issue with my scph 7502, it often stuck on psx logo screen
Hi there, my Japanese PS1 is broken and need a model I couldn't find anywhere on the market and on the internet. I need an optical laser lens replacement KSM-440ADM 03Y470 KB432. Where could I find it? I'm kind of desperate of the situation.😞
Thanks for the video!
I have somehow lost the power cable of the laser assembly and I can't find a way to make one. I seem to not be able to find the right connector size (I don't know what they're called so I'm looking mostly randomly...).
I think it's a JST PH2.0 connector, but I could be wrong.
@@TheRetroChannel Thanks! I'll take a look at it!
is it possible to clean the laser lens from the other side? You can see that dirt has accumulated there over the years.
Extremely informative video. Is there a list anywhere of which lasers are compatible with which models? It would be helpful to have when I’m out and about buying old
Broken consoles
Technically all of them are compaitble with each other. The only difference is the cable lengths but you can get cable extenders. Just google the PS1 model number and laser if you want to find the exact one
Scph-1002 - laser assembley shim needed for leveling - does anyone sell these??? If not, any recommendations of metal to buy to make these shims????
I wish I could fix my SCPH-7001. It reads disks perfectly fine without skipping, but only if it's sideways or at least a 45° angle. I already cleaned and lubed everything and it just won't get any better. POT tweaking didn't help as well, in fact it just made it worse so I put it in its original state. Any tips?
What are your thoughts on the C-Sync Mod does it really give a much better picture than standard ? Or is it not needed on a CRT TV or is it just best for LCD TV's ?
I haven't tried it. What I did do however was rewire my scart cable to use sync on luma rather than sync on composite. That was much easier and doesn't require changes to the console, the hardest part was cracking open the multiout plug on the cable.
No doubt csync would be better but at least using luma as sync is still "cleaner" than using composite as sync. I don't notice any noise with any of my displays using sync on luma
Please tell us that you tried with the cover on lid closed or at least the lights off.
I can source brand new PSX laser assembly modules, the long, medium and short cable versions. Happy to provide my source if you're interested. The motor and spindles are also available as seperate parts, and various PS2 slim parts including the PS2 complete laser assembly. (Australian supplier also)
Wagner?
@@TheRetroChannelNo :) - Although looking at their catalogue it seems to be the same range, so I suspect Wagner are reselling from WES (my source) with a substantial mark up
@@gnif Yep, I think Wagner is their public facing site
Two missed opportunities:
1. Spongebob x Days Later card.
2. Dustin Hoffman's uncle in The Graduate talking about plastics. 😀
I don't recall ever having problems playing audio CDs with my modded PS1. Have mod chips gotten worse in the last 20 years?
It's a quirk with the MM3 modchip. In one way it's better than the og modchips as later PS1 games cannot detect it, the only downside is the audio cd issue.
Does lithium grease degrade plastics? Can I use silicone grease? Also, can I use Permatex high performance synthetic grease?
You will need to check the datasheet for your particular product
See on aliexpress that they put psio inside psone/slim but it's a lot of wirejob😅
Your mention of later models that are essentially useless when the CD-ROM drive breaks got me wondering: Could a device be built that would essentially pretend to be the laser mechanism and synthesise look-alike signals from an ISO file on an SD card? I expect this would be something for an FPGA and if it's possible, would require a lot of work figuring out how the drive controller works.
It's been done. Replaces the whole laser with a microSD card reader.
What's your preferred solution for plastic gear lubrication, lithium or silicon grease?
I use lithium and it hasn't let me down so far. It's the MG Chemicals white lithium grease
Hey, does someone have an experience with chinise optical drive? (for PS1) Is it worth to buy?
I have never had any luck with cleaning the lens actually doing anything, has anyone else? Same with lubing the rails. Of course, I still do it every damn time haha.
I would have glued a piece of plastic bag holding both sides together, would be more lexible
is that just a normal blue pry tool that you wedge in the lid switch? someone need to make a 3d printed tool for bench testing.
It's a normal pry tool, I just cut a bit off each side to make it fit through the metal plate, and then cut a couple of horizontal notches so it can twist around the metal. Otherwise the lid switch would just push the pry tool back out
@@TheRetroChannel thanks for getting back to me, that’s a neat idea
I wonder if Keysight would want to sponsor you 🤔🤔
What lcd is that, looks nice and useful?
It's a bit of a hack job of parts, you can find all the details in this video ruclips.net/video/s79qBlwpZFQ/видео.html
Nice video about the laser suspension coil :)
MM3 other modchip doesn't recognize audio cd because of the subcode q. It's always detected as CD-XA type disc and not CD-DA.
You need a oscilloscope for see the eye pattern on those PS (automatic servo and test point on CL704 5us time base -- 200mV for division).
By the way, the best modchip for 9000 is the mayumi 4.0.
I did just like you asked for: hit the like button twice (it added the like, and then removed). :D
just kidding
WD40 would clean out the Motor. Following it up with clock oil just means you did the WD40 treatment right.
WD40 though has oil in it, it burns away from just from the friction of components rubbing against each other. So wd40, run, oil up and run again if the sound stops you're done. if sound returns repeat at least 5 times if persists replace components if possible.
If that's actually the same as WD-40 it's a penetrating oil and it will dry out over time. Not great.
Yep, that's why I added some more oil afterwards
You oiled the brushes in the motor...?
Prob won't last long.
Heh probably. But that motor wasn't happy to begin with and likely wouldn't last long anyway. So far though it has been rock solid, and I've already put a lot of hours on it since
@@TheRetroChannel every time I get oil anywhere near a brush on a motor, I kill it.
A piece of tape
definitely not junk
These things one day will eventually die from all sorts of things. Spare parts won't always exist and it's important we preserve some. Just emulate
Best way,use a new.
Waisting time.
Or find a way for a screw as The Same Position in ps2 laser.
Then its easier
9001 is worse model PS1 built, so laggy !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That plastic part was probably already broken, seeing how it's plastic probably working in time it broke