I have been knitting for many years, having made dozens of sweaters and never knew about this method of blocking. After watching this video (and spending close to $50 on all the supplies -- so worth it), I have wet blocked my first garment and I cannot believe the difference in the look of the wet blocked sweater compared to steam blocking (which I did when I made the same sweater a while ago). I will ALWAYS use this method. Your demo presentation is clear, easy to follow and has all the detailed info we need. Thank you!
Usually you dont have to since you should have stretched/shaped it how you want the first time. The rest of the times you wash it there’s no need for the full routine with pins and a board, just handwashing it should be fine
I'm just finishing knitting my very first garment and I was going to block the pieces BEFORE assembling it but clearly that's not what I'm meant to do!
Can I do it with a sweater I bought? Haven’t made it. I love its oversize look and bat sleeves but the ribbed bottom shrinks to a circumference that is too narrow for my hips. I’d like it to go straighter downwards.
Thanks for this really informative. Do you have a link to where you got the comblike pinning things ( sorry English is not my first language) they look really practical.
Thank you for this video! I am knitting your Winter Bluff Sweater which also uses the Lion Brand Wool Ease. Since this yarn is machine wash and dryable, I thought I would wash and dry in a lingerie bag. Could this be done instead of wet blocking?
I have a question - welcoming advice from anyone! These videos often say pin things at the "size it should be", but so far none of the patterns I've knitted give measurements of what different measurements of the items should be - sometimes they give one measurement, i.e. extra small: 30 inches long, small 32 inches long, etc, but how do you work out all of the other measurements? Thanks in advance!
I will say I am a BEGINNER. I found some “Women’s Body Shape” forms online. I printed some out that had markings for all widths and lengths as a seamstresses body form. Then I measured myself - widths and lengths. I also asked my out of town daughters to do the same…it required a FaceTime. 😮 When I block, I try to block the widths to fit MY widths, and lengths the same way. If the pattern says it fits a 34-36” bust, and I’m a 35”, then I’d block around 34” if I want a snug fit, or 36-37” for a loose fit. So, the widths & lengths it is “supposed to be” = my lengths & widths. If that makes sense? Also, you’ll find some yarns have a lot of “give” (I had a linen/cotton that did) some a little (100% cotton) and others not much at all (a cotton/poly blend). So, if you can block a small piece before you crochet, you’ll know how much give it has, and maybe go up or down a size. I will say, I do a lot of measuring, because I’m a newbie, and hate to work so long with nice yarn & then have a major fail. Which does happen sometimes anyway.
It seems like you have stretched the garment out a bit and that makes it that it all looks plane and shaped, with my garments I usually notice the wetting blows the fibre up and make the garment bigger, can I also make it littler again when blocking?
It depends on what type of yarn you use, I know some cottons shrink instead of grow, but you can try not stretching it out when you pin it, or just don't pin it at all and let the garment go to whatever size it wants to.
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I have been knitting for many years, having made dozens of sweaters and never knew about this method of blocking. After watching this video (and spending close to $50 on all the supplies -- so worth it), I have wet blocked my first garment and I cannot believe the difference in the look of the wet blocked sweater compared to steam blocking (which I did when I made the same sweater a while ago). I will ALWAYS use this method. Your demo presentation is clear, easy to follow and has all the detailed info we need. Thank you!
Excellent video. This is how I block my garments.
Ashley thanks so much for this tutorial I learned allot about blocking a sweater ❤
Very interesting, I would like to ask if you block your garments every time you wash them or only once? Thank you very much
Same! I’m giving crochet tops to my daughters and petrified the 1st time they wash them!!
Usually you dont have to since you should have stretched/shaped it how you want the first time. The rest of the times you wash it there’s no need for the full routine with pins and a board, just handwashing it should be fine
Thank you for this video. You are awesome ❤
I'm just finishing knitting my very first garment and I was going to block the pieces BEFORE assembling it but clearly that's not what I'm meant to do!
Can I do it with a sweater I bought? Haven’t made it. I love its oversize look and bat sleeves but the ribbed bottom shrinks to a circumference that is too narrow for my hips. I’d like it to go straighter downwards.
Thanks for this really informative. Do you have a link to where you got the comblike pinning things ( sorry English is not my first language) they look really practical.
Yes, everything is linked in the video description!
I am knitting with 100% cotton and is slightly small. Would blocking it make it slightly bigger ie 2 inches? Or I could start again. 😊
Also, what kind of yarn do you recommend if you can't wear wool? The itch factor is too much for me.
Can I centrifugate my knits or not? It's Winter down here 😅. It will take ages to dry.
Thank you for this video! I am knitting your Winter Bluff Sweater which also uses the Lion Brand Wool Ease. Since this yarn is machine wash and dryable, I thought I would wash and dry in a lingerie bag. Could this be done instead of wet blocking?
Ty
Hello!
I'm From Indonesian
Thank you for the video, may I ask you to make a cardigan tutorial using the inside pocket?
I have a question - welcoming advice from anyone! These videos often say pin things at the "size it should be", but so far none of the patterns I've knitted give measurements of what different measurements of the items should be - sometimes they give one measurement, i.e. extra small: 30 inches long, small 32 inches long, etc, but how do you work out all of the other measurements? Thanks in advance!
I will say I am a BEGINNER.
I found some “Women’s Body Shape” forms online. I printed some out that had markings for all widths and lengths as a seamstresses body form.
Then I measured myself - widths and lengths. I also asked my out of town daughters to do the same…it required a FaceTime. 😮
When I block, I try to block the widths to fit MY widths, and lengths the same way. If the pattern says it fits a 34-36” bust, and I’m a 35”, then I’d block around 34” if I want a snug fit, or 36-37” for a loose fit.
So, the widths & lengths it is “supposed to be” = my lengths & widths. If that makes sense?
Also, you’ll find some yarns have a lot of “give” (I had a linen/cotton that did) some a little (100% cotton) and others not much at all (a cotton/poly blend).
So, if you can block a small piece before you crochet, you’ll know how much give it has, and maybe go up or down a size. I will say, I do a lot of measuring, because I’m a newbie, and hate to work so long with nice yarn & then have a major fail. Which does happen sometimes anyway.
It seems like you have stretched the garment out a bit and that makes it that it all looks plane and shaped, with my garments I usually notice the wetting blows the fibre up and make the garment bigger, can I also make it littler again when blocking?
It depends on what type of yarn you use, I know some cottons shrink instead of grow, but you can try not stretching it out when you pin it, or just don't pin it at all and let the garment go to whatever size it wants to.
I have a front load washer. Would it be ok to run it through just the spin cycle for excess water? I do it with my socks.
I always do that after I wet block. 😂 I throw it in my washer on a spin cycle for a minute, then take it out and lay it on my blocking mats.
@@CourtReporter7I'll try that.