Stop a gate sagging without using an ugly cross brace
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- Опубликовано: 5 дек 2020
- Covers how to brace a swinging driveway gate (hinged gate) that has a metal frame without adding an ugly cross brace and how to stop it sagging or dropping in general causing it to fail.
See grantsautomation.com.au/index... for more information on how to make a gate.
Email Grant: grant@grantsautomation.com.au 
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So glad I saw this video. I’m building a gate for my driveway and was about to add a cross brace. You saved me from more work. Thanks and will be a new subscriber.
I’m a beginner fence guy. Just welder my first 16’ x 6’ sliding gate. Crossing my fingers it turns out, but I appreciated your videos!
This is one of the most concise and informative videos on mitigating the forces acting on gates that I have seen. Very easy to understand (especially your references to ALUMINIUM and RAILS). Thanks for putting this on RUclips.
my pleasure
FYI - If a brace is to be used, the brace should be installed from the base of hinged side supporting upwards under "compression." Not from top of hinged side stretching down under "tension."
With metal gate frames a cross brace is better under tension because then smaller less noticeable material can be used. We have used wire as a tension brace on metal gate frames using a turn buckle to adjust the amount of tension and the resulting amount of sag.
Ya know? I have always heard that wood and concrete work best under compression, and steel best with tension. But when it comes to welded gates I find that most of the time the cross brace is under compression. Is there an engineer who could explain the reasoning? And I’d love to have someone explain the reasoning with canteliever slide gate brace direction
@@jgren4048As an engineer myself, having a steel brace in tension makes more sense as the tensile strength exceeds the buckling/compression strength. In the world world, on a small gate, it probably is inconsequential.
That;s great info. Oh another idea i thought of for repairing a sag is to apply a piece of plywood the same size as the gate using a bunch of screws so that the gate will be a solid as a regular door.
Great job. Thanks!
Im structural engineer and its well explained. But still diagonal brace is the most efficient way. But i understand, in this area where design is sometimes prefered you can do things differently. But its not About the supports only. Profile dimension, dimensions of gate etc.
I am having a problem with a metal gate 10ft height x 10ft width sagging an don't know what is the best options Incorrecting it
The most efficient is to have diagonal braces. You need a lot more steel for the same sagging if there are no diagonal elements...
More weight equal sag
Very Nice explanation of the sag of gates we install and make as well sometimes the small amount of play in a hinge will make the gate sag the longer the gate the more sag on fancy gates where the customer does not want a triangle or center brace then the hinges have to be in perfect alignment prior to welding please show your tips on hinge alignment but great video !!
Thanks
Great informative video...one question: would also adding a Vertical middle rail in addition to the middle Horizontal help further with bracing?..thank you
The best remedy to avoid sagging is to fix a 4" solid rubber wheel (sprung loaded) to the bottom opening rail, simple and effective, did mine 2 years back.
This is fine if the gate is manually operated but auto openers don't like them
@@automaticGatesExplained Yes, I can understand that..... on a country mansion
@@automaticGatesExplained Why such a difference. Can you explain it?
I thought the casket is to support the gate weight, especially when the gate is in the parked state.
Thanks
Where you have the vertical styles (1:55) would adding a diagnol brace within each section significantly strengthen the gate? What if the frame was wooden?
It certainly would. If its wooden the braces should be in compression not tension.
You must have seen enough installations of a wide swing gate (yours is 16' wide) don't add any cross brace. So apparently they must work.
Your explanation is very assertive-- All vertical tubes welded into horizontal rails can transfer (a small amount) of weight to the bottom rail (and the hinge of the post bottom, preassembly). Can you explain it differently, because I am not able to understand it.
First thing-- Is my description of your explanation correct?
My 10 ftl airón gate sagging about 2” has one piece across I. The middle what I should do to fixed someone
If you haven't added verticals stiles and/or horizontal rails to brace the gate you can add a wire across the diagonal with a turn buckle to adjust tension.
Till there was you
Rail not rile. Aluminum, not aluminium.
???
English has proper pronunciations & spelling.
Wrong
@@automaticGatesExplained I appreciate your informative videos and Also want to say the Australian accent is Very enjoyable.
Actually, @@dougrogillio2223 , the proper English pronunciation is aluminium. It is only Americans and Canadians who pronounce it "aluminum". en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminium
"Rile", as you have typed rail, is just your interpretation of an accent. there are many regional variations in accents, including within England (where the English language is from). For example, while many English speakers would pronounce rail as you would expect, people from the midlands city of Birmingham (not the one in Alabama) would pronounce it more like "rile", as do Australians. You just need to relax and accept accent variations. Many millions of English speakers around the world tolerate American misspelling and mispronunciation of ENGLISH words all the time (e.g. aluminum, color, humor, etc...), perhaps you can tolerate the fact that some people still like to use proper English spelling and have accent variations when speaking English?
I heard very good opinions about the Woodglut plans.