Hi Steve some very impressive fault finding there mate you did well to diagnose the fault it's a bit like being a detective finding out who was guilty of murder where the victim is the fuse and the short to earth being the murderer😂 I'm not so good on car electrics these days but I did fit a smart top module to my SLK about 5 years ago which needed to be wired directly into the cars ECU where there was 15 wires from the smart top module that had to be wired into the cars PC, this allows the cars remote to operate the windows and roof, can't say I would do it again. Anyway mate you did a great job sorting it out, I really enjoyed watching it👏👌👍
Hi John, thanks mate and I’m glad you enjoyed the video, I actually enjoyed fault finding this one as it’s very rare that I have a problem with electrical issues, this was a brilliant opportunity I have wanted to do an electrical video for a while now. Good analogy you’ve thought of 😂 Good luck with doing mods like that on a modern car, it will no doubt cause an issue with something else. Sounds like you did a great job there as even old Mercedes have lots of modules in them my 2005 Passat MK5 had a lot in it. Got a big video coming soon (more like a film) so you will be able to enjoy it when that comes out I’ve edited the bulk of it just need to add some music to it and re-watch it to make sure it’s ok. Cheers mate 👍
Yeah it was a really interesting video mate, I don't remember a lot of what I knew about electrics as it was a lot of years ago, my dad was an electrical engineer he had three shops and did anything from house wiring to tv and radio and even making his own radio amps. There are a few modules in my Merc and I believe I had to tap into the main ECU, it was a few years ago when I did it but it all still works as it should, it's nice being able to control the hard top and windows from the 2 button key fob, you can even raise and lower the roof while driving under 20mph, of course it's all totally useless but it's cool😎😎😂
Hi Andy, thanks again for all your comments, there are 2 noises 1st the auxiliary belt tensioner bearing is noisy, I have a new one just need to fit it. And for the last few years it has the wrong back box exhaust on it giving it a raspy boy racer sound 😂 not one I’m really fond of in all honesty, it’s something in need to replace, some people like the sound I don’t think it suits it especially being an automatic.
There aren’t actually fixed resistors in there despite how it is shown on the diagram. It’s a pot and wiper. Not that is really makes a difference to testing
Hi Steve, You did well finding that well-done mate 👍 , was that a Fluke meter you were using? I do like Fluke meters, haven't seen that form of insulation tape for years, didn't realize they still made it, better than the PVC stuff that's everywhere these days although I use heat shrink mostly now although you obviously need access to the end of the wire for that.
Hi Pete, yeah thanks it was in a tight spot wasn’t it. Yes it’s a Fluke 23 Series 2 I bought it secondhand because I wanted a half decent one, I’ve had several over the years. I quite like the Tesa tape it’s much better than PVC as you said PVC I think is only good if you buy the proper 3M stuff the quality is far different from other brands. Like you said ideally I should have taped up the break and then taped over the top of the loom but the harness is so tight in there you would probably have to take half the engine ancillary’s out to get to it 🤣 cheers mate. 👍
Well done for finding it.
Great video Steve
Glad you finally sorted it out. Look forward to the next
Thank you Matt, I really didn’t think that the switch was at fault here. Cheers.
Hi Steve some very impressive fault finding there mate you did well to diagnose the fault it's a bit like being a detective finding out who was guilty of murder where the victim is the fuse and the short to earth being the murderer😂
I'm not so good on car electrics these days but I did fit a smart top module to my SLK about 5 years ago which needed to be wired directly into the cars ECU where there was 15 wires from the smart top module that had to be wired into the cars PC, this allows the cars remote to operate the windows and roof, can't say I would do it again.
Anyway mate you did a great job sorting it out, I really enjoyed watching it👏👌👍
Hi John, thanks mate and I’m glad you enjoyed the video, I actually enjoyed fault finding this one as it’s very rare that I have a problem with electrical issues, this was a brilliant opportunity I have wanted to do an electrical video for a while now. Good analogy you’ve thought of 😂
Good luck with doing mods like that on a modern car, it will no doubt cause an issue with something else. Sounds like you did a great job there as even old Mercedes have lots of modules in them my 2005 Passat MK5 had a lot in it.
Got a big video coming soon (more like a film) so you will be able to enjoy it when that comes out I’ve edited the bulk of it just need to add some music to it and re-watch it to make sure it’s ok.
Cheers mate 👍
Yeah it was a really interesting video mate, I don't remember a lot of what I knew about electrics as it was a lot of years ago, my dad was an electrical engineer he had three shops and did anything from house wiring to tv and radio and even making his own radio amps.
There are a few modules in my Merc and I believe I had to tap into the main ECU, it was a few years ago when I did it but it all still works as it should, it's nice being able to control the hard top and windows from the 2 button key fob, you can even raise and lower the roof while driving under 20mph, of course it's all totally useless but it's cool😎😎😂
What’s with the engine noise at the end. Exhaust or top end or both ?
Hi Andy, thanks again for all your comments, there are 2 noises 1st the auxiliary belt tensioner bearing is noisy, I have a new one just need to fit it. And for the last few years it has the wrong back box exhaust on it giving it a raspy boy racer sound 😂 not one I’m really fond of in all honesty, it’s something in need to replace, some people like the sound I don’t think it suits it especially being an automatic.
There aren’t actually fixed resistors in there despite how it is shown on the diagram. It’s a pot and wiper. Not that is really makes a difference to testing
That’s good to know it would have been interesting to have opened it up.
Hi Steve, You did well finding that well-done mate 👍 , was that a Fluke meter you were using? I do like Fluke meters, haven't seen that form of insulation tape for years, didn't realize they still made it, better than the PVC stuff that's everywhere these days although I use heat shrink mostly now although you obviously need access to the end of the wire for that.
Hi Pete, yeah thanks it was in a tight spot wasn’t it. Yes it’s a Fluke 23 Series 2 I bought it secondhand because I wanted a half decent one, I’ve had several over the years. I quite like the Tesa tape it’s much better than PVC as you said PVC I think is only good if you buy the proper 3M stuff the quality is far different from other brands. Like you said ideally I should have taped up the break and then taped over the top of the loom but the harness is so tight in there you would probably have to take half the engine ancillary’s out to get to it 🤣 cheers mate. 👍