You should always put glue on the wedge. Your shoulder is also to large and and needs to have more of a taper and not such a defined bulge. But the axe head itself turned out great.
You don't need the steel wedges. If you use a little wood glue on your hardwood wedge, and fit the handle properly, you won't need any steel wedges. And you can pound away for years, but only if you have a good fit between the axe, and the handle.
You don't need the steel wedges. If you use a little wood glue on your hardwood wedge, and fit the handle properly, you won't need any steel wedges. And you can pound away for years, but only if you have a good fit between the axe, and the handle.
Yea, I just didn't want to remove a lot of material, especially the sager logo from the axe since it wasn't that deep. Plus I'm new to the angle grinder so I'm trying to learn the feel of it more.
Thanks! It took me probably about 6 to 7 hours of sanding of the axe and about probably 4 hours of work on the handle. With some other elements involved, it probably took me about 14ish hours.
Fantastic job!
Thank you!
nice job. i am looking forward to more of your work!!!
Thanks! I'm releasing my next video soon.
Very cool. I never knew how they put the axe head on the handle. Looks good.
Thank you. Yea, it blows my mind how the science of it works how the head doesnt just fall off when you are pounding it on.
You should always put glue on the wedge. Your shoulder is also to large and and needs to have more of a taper and not such a defined bulge. But the axe head itself turned out great.
Amazing!
Thanks!
The kurf does not need to be such a tight fit, thin it down enough so it stays open by itself , the wedge will fill in the gap when hung .
Makes sense, thank you for the advice.
love your music and intro graphics
Thank you! I really appreciate it!
You never put metal wedges in the axe handle use the round wedges they push from all sides and won’t break the wood like the regular metal wedges do
You don't need the steel wedges. If you use a little wood glue on your hardwood wedge, and fit the handle properly, you won't need any steel wedges.
And you can pound away for years, but only if you have a good fit between the axe, and the handle.
You don't need the steel wedges. If you use a little wood glue on your hardwood wedge, and fit the handle properly, you won't need any steel wedges.
And you can pound away for years, but only if you have a good fit between the axe, and the handle.
Looks great now!
It has a really small eye for the handle but you fixed the head very well.
Greetings from Germany
Tino
PS: Subscribed!
Thank you! Yea I had to take off a lot of wood to get it to fit. Thanks for the subscription!
If you're going to use an angle grinder just get a flap disk and there is no reason to waste your time and money on rust remover and wire brushing.
Yea, I just didn't want to remove a lot of material, especially the sager logo from the axe since it wasn't that deep. Plus I'm new to the angle grinder so I'm trying to learn the feel of it more.
What did you dump in the tub in beginning?
Evaporust is the brand name. But you can find generic ones. It's basically a chemical that non-harshly removes rust.
How long did this take you? Looks good!
Thanks! It took me probably about 6 to 7 hours of sanding of the axe and about probably 4 hours of work on the handle. With some other elements involved, it probably took me about 14ish hours.
Oh my god (1941)
pretty sure I bought this axe 2 days ago as part of a bundle of tools for $40
Actually I haven't sold this axe but if you got an axe similar to this Sager and another axe for $40, I would say you got a pretty good deal. :)
@@prodigalrestorations well yeah I meant a different one that's the same