Follow-up questions for the video: Q1. What takes the forces in the sheathing and puts them in the roof blocking? A1. The nailing that ties the sheathing and the roof blocking together. Commonly called "diaphragm roof nailing" or "edge nailing", it's typically specified as 8d nails spaced between 2 in & 6 in (51 mm & 152 mm). Q2. How do you fasten the roof blocking to the wall top plate? A2. You can either toenail the roof blocking into the wall top plate, or you can use a framing angle from a manufacturer like Simpson (search "Simpson A-Framing Angles). Q3. If I'm doing a renovation and I notice these issues, how should I address it? A3. Definitely talk to a licensed, professional builder licensed where you live. There are many different retrofitting options but without knowing your specific situation makes it impossible to give a complete answer.
Wow!! You got on that connector topic fast. Those Ticos [aka: A35 clips] were the main event for a couple decades. They connect the vertical surface of the rafter block to the horizontal surface of the top plate. And like you say, they are not there to resist pullout/uplift [which they don't], they transfer the lateral loading on the outside and shear walls. Good stuff, man. Thanks.
Thanks Jay, I’m building my own own home and doing my own framing. I was a framer years ago. This was a great reminder to take your time and follow the way those structural loads transfer and to reinforce and stiffen them anywhere possible.
Fantastic layman presentation! I already figured out much of this intuitively, but seeing the “why” really helps. I’m in the planning stage of a DYI tiny house construction, and the insights you provided are invaluable.
Well done. Now you need to go on EC2 podcast channel and discuss your path to becoming a PE. And I remember a prof saying "if you don't take your EIT during your senior year or right after college, you're going to regret it" He was right :)
Agreed. I mentioned that from the perspective of seeing cracked glass after a 50-70 mph gust. Low from a design & engineering perspective but still higher than what we might witness on a breezy day. Could only imagine the result if the wind speed was any higher.
For your point about roof blocking, couldnt you just cut the wall sheathing like a comb, so it runs up and in between each truss to meet the roof sheathing? Surely that would both help with these twisting forces and the structures airtightness at the same time?
Thus the second video of yours I’ve watched... I had to subscribe. You’re knowledgeable and combine common sense in your approach, well done again. When I frame exterior walls, I’ve always held my headers tight to the top plate. I’ve found it gives me more options for mi breaks in the top plate. And after doing remodels, realized it makes changing window/door sizes easier. Curious, what you think about that method? Also when I use truss systems for a roof... I always use diagonal bracing that run from the exterior walls to the rat runs. I’m not an engineer, but thought that would help strengthen the roof system. Ive worked in a few big housing developments, and noticed that the framers who didn’t do this, had more issues with drywall cracks in the ceilings. Just a coincidence? What’s your opinion?
1st Question: I think having the header at the top plate is fine, but I would put a 1/2” to 3/4” gap between the cripple studs and attach them together with a deflection clip from Simpson. If the cripple studs are tight to the header you could incidentally transfer some load into the plate I assume you would use overtop the opening, thus the plate over the opening is acting as a header as well. I do agree the header at the top plate provides more flexibility & options and I personally would opt to do that in my designs. 2nd Question: I’m not a truss designer and not knowing more factors like location, roof type, truss layout, etc it’s impossible to say whether it’s a coincidence or not. But at a minimum there should be bracing that meets SBCA requirements or the requirements straight from the truss designer. In special cases I will call for additional bracing, but as you know trusses are very flimsy so the more bracing, the better. Thanks for the support!
@@JthaEngineer 1st question- I like that idea!!! Here’s one for ya... when I set my windows, I will take a Dremel or fine cutting tool, and on the top flange of the window, I’ll make a slot going vertically about a half inch where the existing holes were made. The head of the nail hold the flange, but will allow settling, if it occurs. Would you suggest the same cripple/clip application with the header held low? #2- Agreed!!! I always follow truss specs, that is a warranty fail, and code violation for sure. I’ve worked in 21 different states, and my hands have touched over 500 homes... codes are different in places. I learned a lot framing in Florida using trusses... major uplifts!!! I’ll keep up with your videos, and share you, with people I know. Theres a lot of carpenters in the industry today that should listen to you... and at least try, to learn the craft!!! Keep up the good work Jay!!!
If the header is held low, which I’m assuming you mean right above the window opening, I would not recommend the clip application and install the cripple studs the traditional method per code.
Great explanation Jay, its inspiring to see some actually know what they are doing, we only want to create solid buildings, unfortunately there are those only interested in the dollars not quality, then they slap up disasters waiting to happen, we just need to be a little more conscious of what we do, it will show in your workmanship, good on ya, mate, 😀👍 🇦🇺 🇦🇺 🇦🇺 🇦🇺 🇦🇺 🇦🇺 🇦🇺 🇦🇺 🇦🇺
REQUEST- I live i a very humid climate. As a result the two story small home I am planning might benefit from new materials. Can you comment on angular wall bracing and concrete sheeting. I read that bracing is out and concrete siding makes a sheer wall. I have doubts.
Angular wall bracing is something I’ve never used because I’ve found that it’s not as strong of a solution to a regular shear wall. There has been research from the American Plywood Association to back that up as well. Today could be a different story as far as angular wall bracing options because I haven’t been following that much but I personally haven’t seen a huge advantage structurally over a shear wall. I’m assuming you’re referring to Portland Cement plaster when you say concrete sheeting. If not respond with a link to the product you’re referring to. PCP is allowed to be used as a shear wall by the code but it’s strength is much less than say… 15/32” plywood/OSB with 8d nails into the studs. I wouldn’t use it to sheathe a whole structure from the perspective of having the strongest wood home against wind & earthquake unless plywood/OSB couldn’t be used. I personally wouldn’t try to revise the structural components for the sake of moisture, but I do think working with an architect you can come up with a wall section that can protect the structure from moisture.
@@JthaEngineer I am not sophisticated enough to post a link, but I have seen the term "sheer strength" or similar used with James Hardie PANEL, not plank. IMO "stucco" adds no material strength. Thank you for the detail.
The roof is like a beam resisting horizontal forces. The wall are the horizontal bearing of that beam. Without the transfer of the roof diaphragm to the walls the forces are not transferred to the supporting ground in high wind or earthquake. Without bracing the walls could collapse.
What's your opinion on poorly manufactured trusses with gusset plates that are not stamped properly. How would that impact the structure in say a storm with high winds
High winds put uplift pressure on a roof so poorly manufactured trusses would be a concern in that regard as those trusses would be responsible for keeping your roof on the house. Depending on the structural layout & design of a home, we will also use a truss as a link between the roof sheathing & an interior shear wall that doesn’t go all the way up to the roof so that the shear wall can do its job. So a poorly manufactured truss may not allow a building to perform in the manner it was designed. In this case, making an interior shear wall useless and potentially overloading other shear walls in a building Moral of the story is if you suspect they’re defective, reach out to the truss manufacturer.
Sort of related, but not mentioned...It seems to me that putting wall sheathing on vertically makes more sense than horizontally, but no one does this. What do engineers think?
Great question. Thanks for asking The wood grains in the sheathing are what gives it its bending & shear strength. In order for the sheathing to be able to develop the most strength capacity, we do this by shortening the span length (or the gap in between the framing) that the grains in the sheathing has to span over unsupported. So for example I have an 8’ high wall with studs spaced 16” oc. Putting the sheathing vertically means the grains in the sheathing are spanning 8’ which results in sheathing that’s significantly weaker against bending & shear than if it were placed horizontally. Another way to look at it is if you had an 8’ long floor joist supported at the ends vs. it being supported every 16”. The floor joist supported every 16” would be significantly stronger than the other option. Different application but same principle.
Follow-up questions for the video:
Q1. What takes the forces in the sheathing and puts them in the roof blocking?
A1. The nailing that ties the sheathing and the roof blocking together. Commonly called "diaphragm roof nailing" or "edge nailing", it's typically specified as 8d nails spaced between 2 in & 6 in (51 mm & 152 mm).
Q2. How do you fasten the roof blocking to the wall top plate?
A2. You can either toenail the roof blocking into the wall top plate, or you can use a framing angle from a manufacturer like Simpson (search "Simpson A-Framing Angles).
Q3. If I'm doing a renovation and I notice these issues, how should I address it?
A3. Definitely talk to a licensed, professional builder licensed where you live. There are many different retrofitting options but without knowing your specific situation makes it impossible to give a complete answer.
I like dudes who know what they are talking about. I subscribed.
I could watch a whole series made this way! Informative and interesting.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I LOVE this explanation.
Amazing Video and production quality! Very well edited and presented! Love the B-Roll footage!
Thanks Dan!
Very informative thanks 😊
Great, extremely clear explanations.
Wow!! You got on that connector topic fast. Those Ticos [aka: A35 clips] were the main event for a couple decades. They connect the vertical surface of the rafter block to the horizontal surface of the top plate. And like you say, they are not there to resist pullout/uplift [which they don't], they transfer the lateral loading on the outside and shear walls.
Good stuff, man. Thanks.
Thanks Jay, I’m building my own own home and doing my own framing. I was a framer years ago. This was a great reminder to take your time and follow the way those structural loads transfer and to reinforce and stiffen them anywhere possible.
Cheers to building your own home!
Great video. Nicely explained.
Thank you!
Fantastic layman presentation! I already figured out much of this intuitively, but seeing the “why” really helps. I’m in the planning stage of a DYI tiny house construction, and the insights you provided are invaluable.
Glad it was helpful!
Appreciate the knowledge
great video, thanks for the info! look forward to more videos like this
Thank you! More to come
Thanks. great video, Jay!
Glad you liked it!
You must be an engineer. You are impressive!
Well done. Now you need to go on EC2 podcast channel and discuss your path to becoming a PE. And I remember a prof saying "if you don't take your EIT during your senior year or right after college, you're going to regret it" He was right :)
Ah yes… the days where the EIT was the biggest concern coming out of college…
Nice, clear presentation. Of course, if your building racks under high winds, you might get far worse damage than just breaking a window.
Agreed. I mentioned that from the perspective of seeing cracked glass after a 50-70 mph gust. Low from a design & engineering perspective but still higher than what we might witness on a breezy day. Could only imagine the result if the wind speed was any higher.
For your point about roof blocking, couldnt you just cut the wall sheathing like a comb, so it runs up and in between each truss to meet the roof sheathing?
Surely that would both help with these twisting forces and the structures airtightness at the same time?
Thus the second video of yours I’ve watched... I had to subscribe. You’re knowledgeable and combine common sense in your approach, well done again. When I frame exterior walls, I’ve always held my headers tight to the top plate. I’ve found it gives me more options for mi breaks in the top plate. And after doing remodels, realized it makes changing window/door sizes easier. Curious, what you think about that method?
Also when I use truss systems for a roof... I always use diagonal bracing that run from the exterior walls to the rat runs. I’m not an engineer, but thought that would help strengthen the roof system. Ive worked in a few big housing developments, and noticed that the framers who didn’t do this, had more issues with drywall cracks in the ceilings. Just a coincidence? What’s your opinion?
1st Question:
I think having the header at the top plate is fine, but I would put a 1/2” to 3/4” gap between the cripple studs and attach them together with a deflection clip from Simpson. If the cripple studs are tight to the header you could incidentally transfer some load into the plate I assume you would use overtop the opening, thus the plate over the opening is acting as a header as well. I do agree the header at the top plate provides more flexibility & options and I personally would opt to do that in my designs.
2nd Question:
I’m not a truss designer and not knowing more factors like location, roof type, truss layout, etc it’s impossible to say whether it’s a coincidence or not. But at a minimum there should be bracing that meets SBCA requirements or the requirements straight from the truss designer. In special cases I will call for additional bracing, but as you know trusses are very flimsy so the more bracing, the better.
Thanks for the support!
@@JthaEngineer 1st question- I like that idea!!! Here’s one for ya... when I set my windows, I will take a Dremel or fine cutting tool, and on the top flange of the window, I’ll make a slot going vertically about a half inch where the existing holes were made. The head of the nail hold the flange, but will allow settling, if it occurs. Would you suggest the same cripple/clip application with the header held low?
#2- Agreed!!! I always follow truss specs, that is a warranty fail, and code violation for sure. I’ve worked in 21 different states, and my hands have touched over 500 homes... codes are different in places. I learned a lot framing in Florida using trusses... major uplifts!!!
I’ll keep up with your videos, and share you, with people I know. Theres a lot of carpenters in the industry today that should listen to you... and at least try, to learn the craft!!!
Keep up the good work Jay!!!
If the header is held low, which I’m assuming you mean right above the window opening, I would not recommend the clip application and install the cripple studs the traditional method per code.
Love the channel, but I have to call this out. When have you ever seen a double top plate where the splices weren't staggered? It's framing 101.
Great explanation Jay, its inspiring to see some actually know what they are doing, we only want to create solid buildings, unfortunately there are those only interested in the dollars not quality, then they slap up disasters waiting to happen, we just need to be a little more conscious of what we do, it will show in your workmanship, good on ya, mate, 😀👍 🇦🇺 🇦🇺 🇦🇺 🇦🇺 🇦🇺 🇦🇺 🇦🇺 🇦🇺 🇦🇺
Appreciate it!
REQUEST- I live i a very humid climate. As a result the two story small home I am planning might benefit from new materials. Can you comment on angular wall bracing and concrete sheeting. I read that bracing is out and concrete siding makes a sheer wall. I have doubts.
Angular wall bracing is something I’ve never used because I’ve found that it’s not as strong of a solution to a regular shear wall. There has been research from the American Plywood Association to back that up as well. Today could be a different story as far as angular wall bracing options because I haven’t been following that much but I personally haven’t seen a huge advantage structurally over a shear wall.
I’m assuming you’re referring to Portland Cement plaster when you say concrete sheeting. If not respond with a link to the product you’re referring to. PCP is allowed to be used as a shear wall by the code but it’s strength is much less than say… 15/32” plywood/OSB with 8d nails into the studs. I wouldn’t use it to sheathe a whole structure from the perspective of having the strongest wood home against wind & earthquake unless plywood/OSB couldn’t be used. I personally wouldn’t try to revise the structural components for the sake of moisture, but I do think working with an architect you can come up with a wall section that can protect the structure from moisture.
@@JthaEngineer I am not sophisticated enough to post a link, but I have seen the term "sheer strength" or similar used with James Hardie PANEL, not plank. IMO "stucco" adds no material strength. Thank you for the detail.
@@smarternu panels like that & stucco definitely provide very little in comparison to OSB/plywood. I definitely would agree with you.
The roof is like a beam resisting horizontal forces. The wall are the horizontal bearing of that beam. Without the transfer of the roof diaphragm to the walls the forces are not transferred to the supporting ground in high wind or earthquake. Without bracing the walls could collapse.
What's your opinion on poorly manufactured trusses with gusset plates that are not stamped properly. How would that impact the structure in say a storm with high winds
High winds put uplift pressure on a roof so poorly manufactured trusses would be a concern in that regard as those trusses would be responsible for keeping your roof on the house.
Depending on the structural layout & design of a home, we will also use a truss as a link between the roof sheathing & an interior shear wall that doesn’t go all the way up to the roof so that the shear wall can do its job. So a poorly manufactured truss may not allow a building to perform in the manner it was designed. In this case, making an interior shear wall useless and potentially overloading other shear walls in a building
Moral of the story is if you suspect they’re defective, reach out to the truss manufacturer.
Sort of related, but not mentioned...It seems to me that putting wall sheathing on vertically makes more sense than horizontally, but no one does this. What do engineers think?
Great question. Thanks for asking
The wood grains in the sheathing are what gives it its bending & shear strength. In order for the sheathing to be able to develop the most strength capacity, we do this by shortening the span length (or the gap in between the framing) that the grains in the sheathing has to span over unsupported.
So for example I have an 8’ high wall with studs spaced 16” oc. Putting the sheathing vertically means the grains in the sheathing are spanning 8’ which results in sheathing that’s significantly weaker against bending & shear than if it were placed horizontally.
Another way to look at it is if you had an 8’ long floor joist supported at the ends vs. it being supported every 16”. The floor joist supported every 16” would be significantly stronger than the other option. Different application but same principle.
@@JthaEngineer Thanks. It's not the first time I've been wrong.
It’s all about learning… No judgment here!